How-to Grease & Lubricate A Snowblower Transmission
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2020
- In this video, I will show you how to grease and lubricate a snowblower transmission. Lubricating and greasing your transmission, axles, split shafts, bearings, chains, and wheels is essential for smooth machine operation.
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Take the gas cap off, place a plastic shopping bag over the fuel tank filling port and reinstall the fuel cap. No leaks. Try this, remove the rust from your axles with a rotary wire brush, instead of using grease on your axles apply anti seize. Next year your wheels will slide right off. Anti seize works great on engine crankshaft pulleys, blade adapters. etc....
Ok I liked the video in general but I'm a retired machinist and I would have liked to see you clean the rust from the shafts before applying grease. I have a 26 year old snowblower and it has no rust on any of the shafts or exposed metal parts I put thin coating of grease on every exposed nut,bolt,shaft etc. I feel the viewers would have liked to see that too but I guess that's just me, I always clean and grease every bare metal surface when preparing for wet weather applications.
I agree. I use a wire wheel on a grinder or even a small wire wheel on a cordless drill. It's quick work and doing it once a year prevents rust build up and the difficulty pulling the wheels off.
I agree with you. His video is fine but he didn’t do a good job in cleaning before applying grease, etc. and reassembling. The condition tells me that his machine is a little neglected.
Exactly what I said, CLEAN THE RUST OFF!!!!
Great video on simple tasks for the smooth running of a very necessary piece of yard equipment when you have a foot of snow, it's my second year with a snow blower and RUclips is a great way to learn tips on the running and upkeep of my snowblower
This explained all I was looking for to complete my Ariens' service. Thank you!
re: securing fuel in tank during machine service: 1. remove cap, 2. cover throat with plastic wrap. 3.install cap. 4. fuel valve off. 5. Onwards.
Excellent video! Really gave me the confidence to tackle this job on my own saving the service 7 delivery charges from my local dealer. Thanx again
Glad I could help :)
Great video. Very helpful.
THANKS FOR THIS INFORMATION
Very Good, Thanks!
Very informative. Thank you very much.
Thanks for watching
Great video thank you 😊
Good video on doing easy snow blower maint , a few more things to check when the belly pan is off. Check the rubber Ring on the metal disc that is used to power the wheels, and use some brake cleaner to clean the disc also check the shaft bearings for wear.!!! Thanks.
Thumbs up because of your cat.
Looks like your snowblower has seen better days. Some rust remover and paint would make that baby shine.
Nice! Like dad always said, "Take care of your equipment and it will take care of you". I like to keep a can of primer & paint handy to sand & touch up rust spots on the sheet metal (do my best to slow that rust!)
Sand, Spray with Rust converter (Ospho), and paint. If you want to slow down rust then use a rust converter to stop the rust. If you do not sand out all of the rust you will have rust under your paint and primer. Ospho rust converter is my favorite, because you can paint right over it after it dries.
Thank you
You should have used some emery cloth on those shafts tocleanoff the rust before you coated them with anti seize.
And it's always a good idea to clean the metal drive plate off after spraying chain lube in there. Spraying any kind of lube with make your runner drive wheel slip from no traction.
Very nicely done. What is the reason for not just using the anti seize on the axles instead of the grease? That’s what I did.
I use a cleaning kit to clean out the corrosion inside the actual wheel. Then apply anti seize to a patch and coat the inside of the wheel as well. What you could do is clean up those axles with a wire wheel to remove the rust that's already there as well. Next time clean the friction wheel as well, it look dirty with rubber marks. Then grease the gear selector that the wheel rides on.
Great tips thank you! I clean my friction plate with carb spray on a rag. Cleaned it just before the season started. I was planning on doing a separate video on cleaning the friction plate but completely forgot about it, hence why it wasn't clean in the video.
God Job.
Thanks!
Really like your content, especially what you're now doing with lawn and yard care on overgrown properties.
I followed your process for my Ariens Deluxe 30 with auto turn , and having trouble getting the spline gear on the split shaft to engage. I notice at about the 8 minute mark where you first replaced the shaft, it did not engage. That's as far in as I have been able go. At the 12:05 mark when you tried again, it went right in! What magic did you use? I've spent a few minutes - rotated it, jiggled it, with no success. Did you have any secrets you can pass on?
Thanks for any help. Mark
Nice informative video! It's usually a good idea to put a thin layer of grease on the friction wheel axle as well to ensure nice easy shifting.
What if your snowblower only poles with the right wheel good the other turn be defective 14:41
I usually clean the transmission plate with carb cleaner while in there. Also clean the the friction wheel rubber, then close her up.
Would the lithium grease work for everything? Or is anti seize needed for the keyway?
I also would grease the two bushings on the body the axle goes through
Yeah I usually do that but forgot to when filming the video. Thanks for the reminder 🤠
I have issues with the friction drive not moving on the friction disc and changing speed range. Worked a few months ago preparing for winter but of course today with 6" of snow no go. Too cold outside to work on it.
I have a sno tek 20” but the gears on my blower are plastic, should I use a silicone grease ? Thanks
Why put grease on the axil if you have a key to keep the wheel turning with the axil.? Would it not be better o put anti size on the axil so it will be easier to remove wheel .
Thanks for the video
They make a Anti-seize spray. In the middle where the the gears are I would also put some grease where that rusty part of the shaft was on the left side. Looks like there are keys in that area. I also put grease inside that wheel hub so next time it will not stick.
Thank you for the tips!
@@fillslawncare Don't forget to put some grease into the wheel hubs where the axle goes through. At the back where your model number is located, is there a Black Rod that is Not connected ? Just wondering why its there, it comes out near the back and is bent at a 90* angle and has a hole in it. Please let us know. Thanks.
Whoa, you need to lube the shaft that the friction disc rides on. How could you close up without doing that? Also, scotch brite green pads work great for cleaning up the drive wheel that the friction disc runs against. That should be free of any rubber particles and oil or fluid overspray as well.
The machine is designed and intended to be laid flat on the auger housing. The manual calls it the forward service position. It’s much more stable that way than balanced in the middle on just a brick. The difference between your brick and flat as intended will have very little effect on whether fuel leaks out. Just drain it, that simple.
I have 2 containers with acid brushes. 1 with grease other with 80/90 and the antisieze container for that job
Hey there bubba as you were greasing the driveshaft ( both) your right side bushing is showing signs of wear wobbling up & down as you were turning
Good call thanks
You have an e-clip missing on the right side. That why the slip shaft came off with the wheel.
I noticed that you didnt remove any of the rust. Would it be better to spend some time brushing/sandind that off of the axels and out of the wheel as well?
Friction disk-wheel is very dirty,,
What about cleaning the friction wheel?
I wanted to do a separate video on cleaning the friction wheel but never got to it. I use carb spray and wipe off rubber residue with rag. Let me know if you have any questions
I saw on another video that there is a "C" clip that also needs to be removed with a flat head screwdriver. So, is that not necessary ? Thx
No it is not necessary to remove the c clip.
@8:24 Not going to clean the shaft of surface rust first??
Interesting that you anti-seize areas that have friction and grease areas that do not move between parts. Should apply anti-seize to the axle where the wheel sits, that never rotates, it is a fixed position.
unfortunaly i haven't been able to find any thing more then a 10 hp from Ariens.......would love to find a 357cc or higher..
@12:00 Not going to clean up the drive disk and plate?
wow I guess i have been doing something wrong because I always put anti seize on my axle shafts instead of grease...
Would it be okay to use Anti Seize on the shafts instead of grease? I see you used it on the axle, but not on the shafts.
It wouldn't hurt anything
Tipping it over like that do you worry about the oil coming out?
Ya, the oil began to drip out when mine was tilted, but I just tightened the cap, and it stopped flowing out.
Are those tires stock?
Yes they are
I would have removed the rust on the axles before lubricanted all the shafts and on the right side shaft greased the inner shaft not anti-seize and anti-seize on the outter shaft and and greased or oiled the 2 bearings and greased the friction plate shaft to make easy shifting
Anti seize is not a lubricant is to protect from seizing lithium grease is a lubricant, but I understand
One thing you forgot to mentioned is to make sure you don’t drop grease on the friction wheel….and make sure it’s clean
Help!!! On my MTD snowblower friction wheel shaft, if the smallest gear is in place, the wheels won't turn. If I move it aside, then the wheels turn. Put back in place, it won't move again. All gears are complete with no teeth broken. I have wracked my brain and it doesn't make sense to me. What am I doing wrong? Every gear moves until that smallest gear is put back in place. Please advise..
Have you tried lubricating the gears? Start there first
@@fillslawncare I am going to do that next but they move freely as long as the smallest gear is moved out of the way.
@@fillslawncare There are "axle" gears and then "friction wheel" gears. When sliding the smallest gear, all is well. Put it back in place and nothing moves.
@@kathy5939 Hard to tell without seeing it. If it's not snowing yet in your area, now would be a perfect time to take it to a good small engine shop to beat the line.
@@fillslawncare finances don't allow that unfortunately. I will get it figured out. Just can't get my mind around why it works fine with the small gear out of place, yet when it is put in place, its like the wheels are seized. Odd, very odd... Thanks for your time. Happy Thanksgiving.
you reallyshould cover the disk with a rag to prevent oil or lube getting on it.
I would have taken some fine sandpaper or emery paper and cleaned the RUST off of those axles and keys B4 I greased 'em up, just sayin'
I just saw your video today and I think your use of grease and anti seize should be reversed. The axle shafts that are held in place by the key should have the anti seize since they don't rotate against each other but would benefit from the anti seize to keep water out so they don't rust. The right shaft you did put the anti seize on does rotate inside the hollow outer shaft through the blowers differential, so that should have the grease on it for lubrication. I have an older Ariens from the 70s that has a knob on the left axle which allows the user to switch from differential to locked axle. That left side even has a Zerk fitting on the outer tube which greases the inner/outer axle part of the shaft.
Why wouldn't you clean before you lubed?
Have you noticed it always seems to be the left wheel that has the most trouble/rust?
The friction wheel slides left and right on a shaft to select the drive speed. Everybody should clean and lube that shaft, or there may be resistance and damage in the speed-selection mechanisms.
I think you used way too much grease on the gears. I believe those gears are dry coming from the factory. At least I would wipe off the excess so it doesn't slop around on the friction disc/pulley or the friction wheel.
He must have said " go ahead " 96 times . Go ahead this and go ahead that . Everyone today can't help them selves . Copycatic vocabulary . Gets a bit annoying .
Ok? English is not my first language buddy.