Great video and thank you for sharing!! That cover is kind of a PITA and the drain plug definitely leaves something to be desired. I replaced my drain plug with a UPR Products, but for those that don’t you just need to twist it off. There is no need to try and pry those clips up. If you look close you’ll see the tabs on the oil pan are tapered for that purpose 😉
We got that style oil filter on our Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. It sits on the top of the engine and if you get it wrong, all the oil will dump out on the top of the motor.
Have the same engine in the Aviator and wish the dipstick tube was positioned over the deepest part of the oil pan. I like to do all my oil changes from the topside by vacuum dragging the spent oil out through the dipstick tube. Did this procedure on the Aviator and was only able to remove a bit less than 5 quarts because the suction tube cannot reach the deepest section of the pan. Your video confirms the unfavorable pan geometry. Good location for the oil filter cartridge but the strut towers brace is very close to interfering with centering the socket extension over the cartridge cap.
@@FatGuyBuilds Unfortunately you are right. Dragging out the ramps , laying on the ground, and splashing oil around are activities I gave up awhile ago with cars that have topside oil filters.
Nice job FatGuy. Curious, just bought our 2021 ST. Lift points you use for your lift? Would you have pics of front and rear lift points. I have a 15kLBS-2 post lift and will be using it for the maintenance. Thanks.
Do u run it then check the oil immediately or wait a bit? When i let it sit its way past the top hole on the dip stick. But when i run it and check it its on the hash marks
Just did the inaugural oil change on mine yesterday. Definitely a silly design, but no need for the screwdriver to pry up the tabs. A bit of extra hand torque is enough to overcome the tab locks, they’re just strong enough to prevent it from shaking out on its own but under torque they can ride up over their detents. Still a stupid design though. Guaranteed it’ll have to be replaced frequently because of the plastic deteriorating from heat and oil exposure, and also incompetent technicians.
Secret with the oil plug is to pull it out partially and hold it to control the flow. It's so easy a caveman could do it. You won't even get oil on your fingers! And the drain plug tabs don't even need to be pried at all. Just gently turn it by hand and it'll pop over the detent...won't break anything.
6 qts is the only way to get it in the correct spot on the dip stick. just try 5.2 run the car for 30 secs. then wait 2 mins. then check your dip stick. it will be low.
@@FatGuyBuilds Actually, it does. Ford Tech Tip: The smallest o-ring on the bottom of the oil filter cartridge blocks an oil passage back to the oil pan. When you begin to unscrew the oil filter cap, that o-ring moves upward...draining the oil within the oil filter housing back to the oil pan. If you don't do the filter first, an amount of oil drains down into the oil pan you just finished draining. All cartridge oil filters on top of the engine are exactly the same design whether it be Mercedes, BMW, Ford, or whatever. The factory procedure is ALWAYS to do the filter first in order to drain the oil from the oil filter housing.
@@farlesbarkley1022 I'm the proud owner of a 2020 Mustang GT with a plastic oil pan. I've owned the Mustang for roughly 8 months with no problem. I did mod the drain plug to a Ronin Drain Plug. No worries now about O-rings or replacing that big yellow carrot stopper.
@@AStanton1966 Precisely. People whine about plastic oil pans becasue, I don't know, they want extra dead weight in a metal oil pan because change is scary
Why not wait until the recommended 7,500 mile suggested manufacturers oil change? Supposedly the cars are "broken in" after the first 1,000 miles so I get why you would want to stay on top of it but if the manufacturer recommends the oil change at 7,500 mile, why not follow it? Just curious.
because the recommended mileage is for people who get rid of their cars every 5 years. that is assuming also that they use factory brand oil and not the cheap shit at autozone or walmart. i consider it insurance. i beat the shit out of all my vehicles. my tuned 2013 st has 145,000 miles and doesnt burn 1 drop of oil. doesnt leak. turbo is still good. i dont see an issue going to 250,000 miles on this engine. would you assume 250,000 miles on a vehicle that someone waited past 5000 mile per oil change?
@@FatGuyBuilds I see... I plan on just daily driving my ST and pushing it every now and then but definitely not "beating the shit" out of it. Lol I would love to keep it for as long as possible but I did buy the premium maintenance plan so I'm going to follow the recommended service intervals. Anyways, keep up the DIY videos, you're the only one so far on RUclips!
@@aexiong1190 i never buy maintence plans. most dont use FULL synthetic. they use semi-syn garbage. make sure the oil say "Full Synthetic"... NOT "Synthetic" NOT "semi Synthetic"
Ha HA LoL OMG what the heck were they thinking, it's not a lawn mower you get a weak oil change guy that's a pair of pliers on there everytime. Is there a petcock MOD for this yet?
damn! I thought those newer Toyota's are bad, but that yellow little oil plug is a big NO! NO! I guess Ford engineers never had to change oil in their vehicles right!?!
The plastic plug is an absolutely superior design. Doesn't require tools, will never be over torqued and much quicker. Also, they make a specialty tool that EXTENDS the reach your ratchet set up has. I can't remember the exact name. Please stop suggesting people use SAE sockets on plastic parts. It's important that you use the proper size due to the increased risk of rounding/stripping. Good start though.
Plastic wont break it is a tight fit. And most people are not gonna buy a specialty tool. The plastic drain plugs always crack and break. If you think it is superior you need to go back to school
@@FatGuyBuilds plastic absolutely will break. The torque specs are on the housing. I was being sarcastic, im talking about an extension. Also if you want to use metal tools to install a rubber gasket, that's your prerogative, but encouraging others to do so is irresponsible. That's a nice car to disrespect the way you have.
@@FatGuyBuilds look we all do cowboy shit on our own vehicles from time to time, but normal people don't post a yt video claiming its the proper way to do things.
Wix is the best filter u can buy in a normal auto store? Have you even opened filters to see what is inside. Wix is made by amsoil and has a better micron filter number than all other brands except amsoil.
Ford doesn't make oil. Motorcraft oil is just re labeled Castrol gtx synblend or full synthetic depending on application. The Motorcraft filter is better than that wix or if u wanna go strait to the source Purolator makes ford filters.
Авто/Мото
That plastic oil pan and plug is a clear indication that a mechanic slept with an engineer's wife
LOL!
Great video and thank you for sharing!! That cover is kind of a PITA and the drain plug definitely leaves something to be desired.
I replaced my drain plug with a UPR Products, but for those that don’t you just need to twist it off. There is no need to try and pry those clips up. If you look close you’ll see the tabs on the oil pan are tapered for that purpose 😉
Thanks for watching!
Thank you I just did the oil change on my explorer ST. You definitely helped. That drain plug got me
Glad it helped
We got that style oil filter on our Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. It sits on the top of the engine and if you get it wrong, all the oil will dump out on the top of the motor.
If u get what wrong?
Have the same engine in the Aviator and wish the dipstick tube was positioned over the deepest part of the oil pan. I like to do all my oil changes from the topside by vacuum dragging the spent oil out through the dipstick tube. Did this procedure on the Aviator and was only able to remove a bit less than 5 quarts because the suction tube cannot reach the deepest section of the pan. Your video confirms the unfavorable pan geometry. Good location for the oil filter cartridge but the strut towers brace is very close to interfering with centering the socket extension over the cartridge cap.
you should still use the oil pan drain plug. just buy the UPR drain plug and make your life easy.
@@FatGuyBuilds Unfortunately you are right. Dragging out the ramps , laying on the ground, and splashing oil around are activities I gave up awhile ago with cars that have topside oil filters.
Nice job FatGuy. Curious, just bought our 2021 ST.
Lift points you use for your lift? Would you have pics of front and rear lift points. I have a 15kLBS-2 post lift and will be using it for the maintenance. Thanks.
Pinch weld very front and very rear.
@@FatGuyBuilds do you have a pinch weld puck or do you set it directly on your 2 post lift pad rubbers?
@@tinindian65 direct on rubber pads no issues
Do u run it then check the oil immediately or wait a bit? When i let it sit its way past the top hole on the dip stick. But when i run it and check it its on the hash marks
I might have put 7 quarts lol 😓
@@dragon0361 lol, i usually give it about 2 mins
Hey fat guy thanks for the video it really helps. Its too bad that ford decided to use that crappy oil plug and pan, what a shame!
you are welcome!
2.3EcoBoost models have a metal oil pan.
Can u use 10W30 oil on 2015 focus? It calls for 5W20 but no one sells 10W20
yes. same with my mustang. no issues
I would probably go with a 5w30
@@alextran8188 please read up on oils. it really doesnt matter that much. once you put turbos on this engine, you have to put 20w50.
@@FatGuyBuilds i was talking to the focus guy
Just did the inaugural oil change on mine yesterday. Definitely a silly design, but no need for the screwdriver to pry up the tabs. A bit of extra hand torque is enough to overcome the tab locks, they’re just strong enough to prevent it from shaking out on its own but under torque they can ride up over their detents. Still a stupid design though. Guaranteed it’ll have to be replaced frequently because of the plastic deteriorating from heat and oil exposure, and also incompetent technicians.
I bought the twist drain from UPR... way better
Secret with the oil plug is to pull it out partially and hold it to control the flow. It's so easy a caveman could do it. You won't even get oil on your fingers! And the drain plug tabs don't even need to be pried at all. Just gently turn it by hand and it'll pop over the detent...won't break anything.
New plug is 1billion times better
So 6qts oil the Manuel says 5.2qts?
6 qts is the only way to get it in the correct spot on the dip stick. just try 5.2 run the car for 30 secs. then wait 2 mins. then check your dip stick. it will be low.
My 2022 ST manual says 6 quarts with filter change.
Lmao 😂 Your funny. I agree. Use what you like.
Thanks for watching!
Per the manual your supposed to replace the filter first, then drain the oil 🛢 to get correct readings
makes zero difference
@@FatGuyBuilds says the guy telling people 26mm when it's 27mm
@@Yonnie6996 accident in recording... my bad.. but draining oil is draining oil. No difference
@@FatGuyBuilds Actually, it does. Ford Tech Tip: The smallest o-ring on the bottom of the oil filter cartridge blocks an oil passage back to the oil pan. When you begin to unscrew the oil filter cap, that o-ring moves upward...draining the oil within the oil filter housing back to the oil pan. If you don't do the filter first, an amount of oil drains down into the oil pan you just finished draining. All cartridge oil filters on top of the engine are exactly the same design whether it be Mercedes, BMW, Ford, or whatever. The factory procedure is ALWAYS to do the filter first in order to drain the oil from the oil filter housing.
@@jase9951 kool thanks
27mm isn’t it? For the oil filter housing. You said 26mm.
yes 27MM.... i added it to the description. my bad.
Dealers dont even put it on a lift or mess with the drain plug they use a oil evacuation pump being the filter is located up top easiest way to do it
U miss some that way. Plus my videos are for normal people. Not rich fucks heads with an oil evacuation system.
@@FatGuyBuilds pneumatic evacuation pump is $69 hardly for the rich fucks but a 60k suv is
👍
thanks
why the dislikes? feedback would be great if you down vote.
So you think you know more than the engineers who designed the motor to run on 5w30?
Lol... do some research. The change doesnt matter at all.
I the engineers designed it to run on 5w30, why does my manual & oil filler cap say 5W20 ?
@@stevedolyniuk3825 mine says 5w 30
A $58,000 Explorer ST and Ford gives you a plastic oil and transmission pan. Not to mention a turbo which dumps junk oil back in your intake.
all engines have PCV oil issues. ALL turbo engines do the same thing as well. no way to stop without a catch can.
Has the plastic pan caused you any problems?
@@farlesbarkley1022 I'm the proud owner of a 2020 Mustang GT with a plastic oil pan. I've owned the Mustang for roughly 8 months with no problem. I did mod the drain plug to a Ronin Drain Plug. No worries now about O-rings or replacing that big yellow carrot stopper.
@@AStanton1966 Precisely. People whine about plastic oil pans becasue, I don't know, they want extra dead weight in a metal oil pan because change is scary
Found on Road Dead, I think that's where they found the Engineers
Lol
Why not wait until the recommended 7,500 mile suggested manufacturers oil change? Supposedly the cars are "broken in" after the first 1,000 miles so I get why you would want to stay on top of it but if the manufacturer recommends the oil change at 7,500 mile, why not follow it? Just curious.
because the recommended mileage is for people who get rid of their cars every 5 years. that is assuming also that they use factory brand oil and not the cheap shit at autozone or walmart. i consider it insurance. i beat the shit out of all my vehicles. my tuned 2013 st has 145,000 miles and doesnt burn 1 drop of oil. doesnt leak. turbo is still good. i dont see an issue going to 250,000 miles on this engine. would you assume 250,000 miles on a vehicle that someone waited past 5000 mile per oil change?
@@FatGuyBuilds I see... I plan on just daily driving my ST and pushing it every now and then but definitely not "beating the shit" out of it. Lol I would love to keep it for as long as possible but I did buy the premium maintenance plan so I'm going to follow the recommended service intervals. Anyways, keep up the DIY videos, you're the only one so far on RUclips!
@@aexiong1190 i never buy maintence plans. most dont use FULL synthetic. they use semi-syn garbage. make sure the oil say "Full Synthetic"... NOT "Synthetic" NOT "semi Synthetic"
@@FatGuyBuilds Thanks for the tip! Keep up the good work.
Oil and filter is about $60.00; a new turbo V-6 400HP engine is $6,000.
Ha HA LoL OMG what the heck were they thinking, it's not a lawn mower you get a weak oil change guy that's a pair of pliers on there everytime. Is there a petcock MOD for this yet?
yup! i made a video!
damn! I thought those newer Toyota's are bad, but that yellow little oil plug is a big NO! NO! I guess Ford engineers never had to change oil in their vehicles right!?!
yeah dumb plastic plugs for sure
The plastic plug is an absolutely superior design. Doesn't require tools, will never be over torqued and much quicker.
Also, they make a specialty tool that EXTENDS the reach your ratchet set up has. I can't remember the exact name.
Please stop suggesting people use SAE sockets on plastic parts. It's important that you use the proper size due to the increased risk of rounding/stripping.
Good start though.
Plastic wont break it is a tight fit. And most people are not gonna buy a specialty tool. The plastic drain plugs always crack and break. If you think it is superior you need to go back to school
@@FatGuyBuilds plastic absolutely will break. The torque specs are on the housing. I was being sarcastic, im talking about an extension. Also if you want to use metal tools to install a rubber gasket, that's your prerogative, but encouraging others to do so is irresponsible. That's a nice car to disrespect the way you have.
@@tac0majas0n i have done this exact thing 30+ times already. Not 1 problem ever. You are over reacting
@@FatGuyBuilds look we all do cowboy shit on our own vehicles from time to time, but normal people don't post a yt video claiming its the proper way to do things.
@@tac0majas0n anything that doesnt break anything is the right way. You dont need to torque it stupid hard. Just seat it and stop
It's a 27mm num nuts.
yes sorry, that was an error
Lmao a plastic oil pan wow
yes... lol
Plastics are becoming more common across the board. Weight savings. And I’m sure also cost savings.
Picky enough to drain the synthetic Castrol out, but using a cheap junk filter. What logic
Wix is the best filter u can buy in a normal auto store? Have you even opened filters to see what is inside. Wix is made by amsoil and has a better micron filter number than all other brands except amsoil.
I drained factory Motorcraft. Where did u see castrol?
Where do you get your information?
I would love to hear the brand of filter you use...
Ford doesn't make oil. Motorcraft oil is just re labeled Castrol gtx synblend or full synthetic depending on application. The Motorcraft filter is better than that wix or if u wanna go strait to the source Purolator makes ford filters.