I got that same plastic oil pan and drain plug on my 2020 Mustang GT. I replaced the OEM plug with the Ronin drain plug. A bit of money up front, however, you don't have to worry about replacing that funky yellow plug during any future changes.
Great video, thank you, very helpful. With the tools out before hand I was able to change the oil and have it buttoned up in only and running 8 minutes. That big drain plug sure does flow! I wasn't prepared for how fast it dumped all the oil out, I think it was empty in twenty seconds. And that splash cover is fantastic, no road junk, dirt or salt on the motor, very clean under there.
You don't have to pry them ears up to turn that plug, all you have to do is get a pair of pliers or channel locks and gently turn the plug and them ears will pop up over that small latching part. 👍😎👍
The 3 plastic push pins retaining the under engine splash shield are fragile. Why didn't Ford use the screws that are on the same shield for all of them, they never fail. If you need replacements, Dorman 961-364D work for the 2 side pins and 961-362D for the front pin. Available at O'Rielly.
Have the same engine in an Aviator and wish the dipstick tube was positioned over the deepest part of the oil pan. I like to do all my oil changes from the topside by vacuum dragging the spent oil out through the dipstick tube. Did this procedure on the Aviator and was only able to remove a bit less than 5 quarts because the suction tube cannot reach the deepest section of the pan. Your video confirms the unfavorable pan geometry. Good location for the oil filter cartridge but the strut towers brace is very close to interfering with centering the socket extension over the cartridge cap.
It seems like oil changes are getting more and more complicated on newer cars. One suggestion that might help. Try parking it on an angle to force more oil towards the front of the pan where the dipstick is. Thanks for watching!
@@andysgarageadventures8043 The oil change isn't getting more complicated, I'm just getting lazier. Topside service for both the sump and filter is so much more convenient and clean. I agree with your recommendation but that means dragging out the ramps which detracts from the convenience factor. Ford should include a flap door in the bottom aero cover that allows assess to the drain plug without undoing the whole cover. I know I could take it to JiffyLube as the ultimate convenience.
Excellent choice for using Motorcraft oil and also for "upgrading" to full synthetic. You are correct in saying that you can use Mobil 1 or any other high quality full synthetic oil as long as it meets Ford spec number. I personally use either Motorcraft or Mobil 1.
Seems to me that Ford could have made that splash guard a little less of a pain without the silly plastic clips. However excellent howto video, well delivered.
Thank you for this! I'll let them change the oil for the first 10k check, but I prefer doing it myself when I can. Question - do you know if it comes from the factory with synthetic or that synth-blend?
Don't wait for 10k to do your first oil change. Oil is cheap; change it between 2,000 and 3,000 miles to get all the filings and other stuff out of the system.
Watched a few videos. Why are so many people so cautious of the plastic plug? I have had my truck for 7 years with 180k miles, and I have never replaced the original drain plug or seal. It's still seals and no issues. Just turn it by hand. It's designed for not using tools.
True, it is nothing to be afraid of, but I always recommend caution so that if someone attempts it, they don't find themself breaking something and can only drive their car again once they source a replacement. Thanks for watching and for your comments!
Absolutely hate oil filter cartridges. Next car I’m looking to see it has a regular spin on filter. Just dumb imo to have to do work up top then on bottom.
It's called built in obsolescence. Auto manufacturers love making parts out of plastic because it has a shelf life and will get brittle over time and break because of the heat in the engine bay. It's criminal in my opinion.
I get where you are going from. These Explorers ST's retail for about $55,000 and this is what you get. I bought a 2020 Mustang GT that has the same pan and plug. I almost didn't buy the car because of them. However, I like the sound, 460 HP, and the fact that the motor goes between port and direct injection. No need for an oil catch cans. Turbos and direct injected engines could use a catch can.
Mercedes and Chrysler switched to plastic oil pans and filter housings in 2009, Audi in 2011, and I'm sure many others did. Never had a problem with my Audi, but my Dodge minivans filter housing warped around 150k miles and started to slowly leak so I had to replace it.
It is almost like they let anyone have a RUclips channel. :-) It also might explain why I have less the 500 subscribers. Thanks for watching with it being as painful as it was!
Thanks for a great tutorial! Super helpful 👍👍
I was going to do it myself. But After watching this. Forget it!!!
I got that same plastic oil pan and drain plug on my 2020 Mustang GT. I replaced the OEM plug with the Ronin drain plug. A bit of money up front, however, you don't have to worry about replacing that funky yellow plug during any future changes.
That is a good upgrade!
Thanks, very thorough video; it helped make the tedious parts more easy.
Great video, thank you, very helpful. With the tools out before hand I was able to change the oil and have it buttoned up in only and running 8 minutes. That big drain plug sure does flow! I wasn't prepared for how fast it dumped all the oil out, I think it was empty in twenty seconds. And that splash cover is fantastic, no road junk, dirt or salt on the motor, very clean under there.
8 minutes? U can’t be serious😂
Great walkthrough, thanks!!
Thanks ! It was very helpful
Thanks. You did good.
Thankyou, for video
THANK YOU THE SHOP IS GONNA DO THIS ONE
You don't have to pry them ears up to turn that plug, all you have to do is get a pair of pliers or channel locks and gently turn the plug and them ears will pop up over that small latching part.
👍😎👍
The 3 plastic push pins retaining the under engine splash shield are fragile. Why didn't Ford
use the screws that are on the same shield for all of them, they never fail. If you need replacements, Dorman 961-364D work for the 2 side pins and 961-362D for the front pin.
Available at O'Rielly.
FFS now u see why the 15 minute jeffy Lube oil change takes 30+ minutes.
This is progress folks.
Have the same engine in an Aviator and wish the dipstick tube was positioned over the deepest part of the oil pan. I like to do all my oil changes from the topside by vacuum dragging the spent oil out through the dipstick tube. Did this procedure on the Aviator and was only able to remove a bit less than 5 quarts because the suction tube cannot reach the deepest section of the pan. Your video confirms the unfavorable pan geometry. Good location for the oil filter cartridge but the strut towers brace is very close to interfering with centering the socket extension over the cartridge cap.
It seems like oil changes are getting more and more complicated on newer cars. One suggestion that might help. Try parking it on an angle to force more oil towards the front of the pan where the dipstick is. Thanks for watching!
@@andysgarageadventures8043 The oil change isn't getting more complicated, I'm just getting lazier. Topside service for both the sump and filter is so much more convenient and clean. I agree with your recommendation but that means dragging out the ramps which detracts from the convenience factor. Ford should include a flap door in the bottom aero cover that allows assess to the drain plug without undoing the whole cover. I know I could take it to JiffyLube as the ultimate convenience.
Great video. How about one for a PTU fluid change. Looks like that PTU is a troublesome thing
There will be future videos where I cover that but you are correct it is not in a great spot for making that process easy. Thanks for watching.
Excellent choice for using Motorcraft oil and also for "upgrading" to full synthetic. You are correct in saying that you can use Mobil 1 or any other high quality full synthetic oil as long as it meets Ford spec number. I personally use either Motorcraft or Mobil 1.
Yep, I would have no problems sleeping at night knowing Mobil 1 was in my car and Costco often has a really good price on it. Thanks for watching!
Aamco
I wouldn’t sleep at night with anything other then Mobile 1 in my engine.
Great video unfortunately we had a horrible experience with ford we went to a jeep now
It is hard not to like a Jeep! Thanks for watching!
Seems to me that Ford could have made that splash guard a little less of a pain without the silly plastic clips.
However excellent howto video, well delivered.
Totally agree. Thanks for watching!
Yes, they could have, but they wanted to add labor time to a simple oil change.
Can you upgrade the push pins to screws?
Thank you for this! I'll let them change the oil for the first 10k check, but I prefer doing it myself when I can. Question - do you know if it comes from the factory with synthetic or that synth-blend?
Sorry, I don’t have that information or a way to get it from Ford, unfortunately. It might even be a break-in oil. Thanks for watching!
Don't wait for 10k to do your first oil change. Oil is cheap; change it between 2,000 and 3,000 miles to get all the filings and other stuff out of the system.
Watched a few videos. Why are so many people so cautious of the plastic plug? I have had my truck for 7 years with 180k miles, and I have never replaced the original drain plug or seal. It's still seals and no issues. Just turn it by hand. It's designed for not using tools.
True, it is nothing to be afraid of, but I always recommend caution so that if someone attempts it, they don't find themself breaking something and can only drive their car again once they source a replacement. Thanks for watching and for your comments!
👍🏽
Just get a 3/8” universal joint and a 12” extension instead of the floppy ratchet handle. Much easier to use.
I since have and you are correct it does make it easier! Thanks for watching.
Is this whole bottom set up the same as a 2020?
Yes, it is. Thanks for watching!
Absolutely hate oil filter cartridges. Next car I’m looking to see it has a regular spin on filter. Just dumb imo to have to do work up top then on bottom.
I agree! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks Ford!!!! Are u kidding!!!
Frustrating for sure. Thanks for watching!
Soon Ford will make 100% of engine components from cheap plastic. The amount of plastic that Ford has been using in its cars is alarming
Yea I hear you. The cartridge being all plastic is a good candidate for preemptive replacement every few years. Thanks for watching!
It's called built in obsolescence. Auto manufacturers love making parts out of plastic because it has a shelf life and will get brittle over time and break because of the heat in the engine bay. It's criminal in my opinion.
I get where you are going from. These Explorers ST's retail for about $55,000 and this is what you get. I bought a 2020 Mustang GT that has the same pan and plug. I almost didn't buy the car because of them. However, I like the sound, 460 HP, and the fact that the motor goes between port and direct injection. No need for an oil catch cans. Turbos and direct injected engines could use a catch can.
Mercedes and Chrysler switched to plastic oil pans and filter housings in 2009, Audi in 2011, and I'm sure many others did. Never had a problem with my Audi, but my Dodge minivans filter housing warped around 150k miles and started to slowly leak so I had to replace it.
Cheaper to replace as well.
Too much dam talking and bad camera work smh
Omg u painfully slow
It is almost like they let anyone have a RUclips channel. :-) It also might explain why I have less the 500 subscribers. Thanks for watching with it being as painful as it was!
Im selling his piece of Junk and buying a Toyota..