2-12g wires straight off the battery to a 10 amp female 5521 Jack ( =120watts ). If your house battery is 100ah, that’s all you need. You can also add a 12v on/off switch. You don’t need the booster at all.
Yeah but I wanted to use the factory cable that came with the starlink as it’s waterproof. So need a higher voltage to push through the smaller factory cable. It’s also watertight for being outside
Great video. I am using a Jackery 1000 Plus to power mine. I tried a couple USB-C to DC5521 cables. One was rated at 100W. But neither worked. The 100W cable would work for a few minutes and then it would reboot. Over and over, not consistent. I know some have gotten a USB-C cable to work, but not me. So I ran my 10V auto cig lighter socket from my Jackery to a 24V DC booster (looked just like yours), then ran that to a DC5521 male to my mini's 50 ft cable. Soldered the connections because I did not have WAGOs. Works like a champ. Tested over a couple days. Your video is excellent. I wish I could get my USB-C to work though someday. Starlink has an accessory but not until next year Support told me:>((
@@discrete57 thank you! I had the same issue with some usb C ports I tried. The cable worked just fine but what I was plugging it into didn’t have enough power via USB C. The following link is to the cable I use when I’m in my car to power the mini. But you do need the output of the USB C port to be able to output up to 100 watts according to Space X Starlink. www.amazon.com/dp/B0D1Y3QTNR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@austinpugh5812just smaller wires and more voltage sounded nice. And I was rewiring it anyway to add the switch before the step up converter and the switches wires were much smaller gauge so I went with a higher voltage.
@@joecool509 starlink still recommends having at least 100 watts of power usable for the mini dish. Not sure why but that’s what they recommended so you can go a little smaller with the converter but I wouldn’t go down to 72 Watts. Try to keep it above 100 watts.
I powered my Mini using the same 12/24 booster. I think I would have switched the 12v going into the booster, not the 24v coming out of the booster. Looks to me like your booster is always on.
@@robertmuster1350 now that I’m looking at it again though. I definitely need larger wires for the switch if it’s going to go before the booster since the amperage draw is larger before the booster and the switch came with some pretty thin wires.
@ModernMountain, switches are usually rated at a stated amperage. Yes, size your wires accordingly. There are numerous charts available for this. As a general guide, match your wiring in this case to the sizes on the input and output of the device you are installing.
Had you considered using the 100/50mppt battery terminals as source of power for the 12/24volt booster? Would have saved some installation time and money. Would put relay on 12volt side of booster to take any load off the switch Bit of electrial tape around the male and female joiners so not to come loose while travelling
@@JustaJourneyman I wanted to do it right and let it have its own circuit since I was putting the STARLINK and a set of USB plugs and a 12v cigarette lighter port for a mini cooler. Didn’t want to pull too much power from the existing line.
@@TwistedOutdoor Totally makes sense especially if you're plugging in a mini-cooler. For my RV, I was planning to tap into the 12v behind the fridge, so I could run the wire out the little fridge door access panel. Since my fridge (propane) only uses a few watts of DC power it should be a-okay to add the Starlink (also low wattage) to the same circuit. And... no new holes in the RV, which is always a goal for me.
@@kellyfoley4243 actually the ladder mount ( www.amazon.com/dp/B0CS3GLR43?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) only really worked with the standard actuated STARLINK. The mini I’m not using the Pivot Mount for the mini from STARLINK themselves. ( shop.starlink.com/products/us-consumer-mini-pivot-mount )
@@TwistedOutdoor ok i think i get it. So you are using the mount you linked with the pole from starlink just not their pivot mount did i read that right?
@@kellyfoley4243 I was using the pole adapter that came with the Starlink mini to attach it to the old pole mount from my previous Starlink that was on the ladder. But now I just decided to buy their pivot mount and mount it to the roof of my RV, using eternal bond tape. it’s not shown in the video but that’s what I use now
Thank you for this solution. Quick question - wouldn’t it be better to step up the voltage to 30V which is what the “normal” input voltage is to further reduce the amperage? Still a little concerned with the size of the mini cable.
@@mikecrews9450 yes, you can definitely do that. The only problem is it’s hard to find 30 V. They have step up converters for 24 and 48 pretty easily but I didn’t even look for one for 30.
I'm pre installing a ethernet line to the roof of my van as I build it, just in case I want to add an auxiliary router or direct connect later, but currently my starlink mini has no problem going thru the walls of my van
@@vincentfox just because the very top range limit for the Starlink mini is 48 V of input so I didn’t want to risk going over that amount. Even 12 V by itself can work fine if you use a shorter and thicker wire. So 24 V was perfect right in the middle.
Considering purchasing thr new Starlink Mini for my RV as well as a backup to my Peplink cellular service. Does tge Mini require 24V DC power vs 12V? Is that the need for the 12/24 V converter?
@@markratliff7991 it can work on anything from 12v to 48v. The only reason I stepped up from 12 to 24v was because I was using their factory cable which it too long and narrow for a 12v input at up to 5 amps. If you do 24v you only need 2.5 amps max and usually around .9amps once it’s up and running. But for the car I use a regular 12v cigarette lighter port to barrel plug and it works perfectly fine as long as the wires are shorter (mine are around 6 feet long). This is the one I bought for the car www.amazon.com/dp/B07TFPN9K4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@adventuredave9461 you can use any but yes that’s the one I used originally in this video but then switched it out the other day for a 144 watt 12v to 48v step up converter.
@@outdoorzee919 it doesn’t matter as long as it is up to 60 W of power as the max. When it is running it usually only uses 20 W of power. So you could have 12 V at 5 amp or 24 v at 2.5 amp. Doesn’t matter. It will accept anything from 12-48 volts
You still need a usb c plug that can output enough watts. And you’d want it to be a DC plug. The whole point was to get our Starlink off AC power. But yes we also now have the Starlink usb c cable and it works great paired with our 140 watt dc cigarette lighter plug adapter that we use in the car on road trips with the mini.
2-12g wires straight off the battery to a 10 amp female 5521 Jack ( =120watts ). If your house battery is 100ah, that’s all you need. You can also add a 12v on/off switch. You don’t need the booster at all.
Yeah but I wanted to use the factory cable that came with the starlink as it’s waterproof. So need a higher voltage to push through the smaller factory cable. It’s also watertight for being outside
Great video. I am using a Jackery 1000 Plus to power mine. I tried a couple USB-C to DC5521 cables. One was rated at 100W. But neither worked. The 100W cable would work for a few minutes and then it would reboot. Over and over, not consistent. I know some have gotten a USB-C cable to work, but not me. So I ran my 10V auto cig lighter socket from my Jackery to a 24V DC booster (looked just like yours), then ran that to a DC5521 male to my mini's 50 ft cable. Soldered the connections because I did not have WAGOs. Works like a champ. Tested over a couple days. Your video is excellent. I wish I could get my USB-C to work though someday. Starlink has an accessory but not until next year Support told me:>((
@@discrete57 thank you! I had the same issue with some usb C ports I tried. The cable worked just fine but what I was plugging it into didn’t have enough power via USB C. The following link is to the cable I use when I’m in my car to power the mini. But you do need the output of the USB C port to be able to output up to 100 watts according to Space X Starlink. www.amazon.com/dp/B0D1Y3QTNR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You should put your switch on the 12v side of your step up transformer. It will possibly consume power even when the starlink is off.
I actually did end up doing that. And switched to a 48v converter
@@TwistedOutdoor Do you have a link to that 48v converter you switched to? Thanks.
@@cage9 yep! a.co/d/apU6xj7
@@TwistedOutdoor what made you decide to step up more to the 48v from the 24v?
@@austinpugh5812just smaller wires and more voltage sounded nice. And I was rewiring it anyway to add the switch before the step up converter and the switches wires were much smaller gauge so I went with a higher voltage.
I’d move switch so the step up isn’t powered all the time? Nice video thanks for sharing
I actually did end up doing that. Also switched it from a 12-24v to a 12-48v step up converter and put it after the switch so it isn’t always powered.
great video. since the starlink mini only needs about 60w you can save a few bucks and get the 72w converter. the link takes you to a 240w.
@@joecool509 starlink still recommends having at least 100 watts of power usable for the mini dish. Not sure why but that’s what they recommended so you can go a little smaller with the converter but I wouldn’t go down to 72
Watts. Try to keep it above 100 watts.
Actually without snow melt it only use 25-35 watts.
I powered my Mini using the same 12/24 booster. I think I would have switched the 12v going into the booster, not the 24v coming out of the booster. Looks to me like your booster is always on.
You are correct and good idea. Didn’t even think about the booster always being on. Going to switch it to have the booster after the switch.
The same thought went through my mind as I watched the installation video.
@@robertmuster1350 now that I’m looking at it again though. I definitely need larger wires for the switch if it’s going to go before the booster since the amperage draw is larger before the booster and the switch came with some pretty thin wires.
@ModernMountain, switches are usually rated at a stated amperage. Yes, size your wires accordingly. There are numerous charts available for this. As a general guide, match your wiring in this case to the sizes on the input and output of the device you are installing.
Had you considered using the 100/50mppt battery terminals as source of power for the 12/24volt booster?
Would have saved some installation time and money.
Would put relay on 12volt side of booster to take any load off the switch
Bit of electrial tape around the male and female joiners so not to come loose while travelling
Is there a reason you didn't just tap into nearby 12v power (instead of home running to the fuse panel?)
@@JustaJourneyman I wanted to do it right and let it have its own circuit since I was putting the STARLINK and a set of USB plugs and a 12v cigarette lighter port for a mini cooler. Didn’t want to pull too much power from the existing line.
@@TwistedOutdoor Totally makes sense especially if you're plugging in a mini-cooler. For my RV, I was planning to tap into the 12v behind the fridge, so I could run the wire out the little fridge door access panel. Since my fridge (propane) only uses a few watts of DC power it should be a-okay to add the Starlink (also low wattage) to the same circuit. And... no new holes in the RV, which is always a goal for me.
Can you please link where you got the ladder mount and pole for the mini? Looks great
@@kellyfoley4243 actually the ladder mount ( www.amazon.com/dp/B0CS3GLR43?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) only really worked with the standard actuated STARLINK. The mini I’m not using the Pivot Mount for the mini from STARLINK themselves. ( shop.starlink.com/products/us-consumer-mini-pivot-mount )
@@TwistedOutdoor ok i think i get it. So you are using the mount you linked with the pole from starlink just not their pivot mount did i read that right?
@@kellyfoley4243 I was using the pole adapter that came with the Starlink mini to attach it to the old pole mount from my previous Starlink that was on the ladder. But now I just decided to buy their pivot mount and mount it to the roof of my RV, using eternal bond tape. it’s not shown in the video but that’s what I use now
Thank you for this solution. Quick question - wouldn’t it be better to step up the voltage to 30V which is what the “normal” input voltage is to further reduce the amperage? Still a little concerned with the size of the mini cable.
@@mikecrews9450 yes, you can definitely do that. The only problem is it’s hard to find 30 V. They have step up converters for 24 and 48 pretty easily but I didn’t even look for one for 30.
Do you lose much wifi signal when you are connecting from inside the van? Any drop outs as it goes through the van walls?
Nope no drop out of signal. It works perfectly. Getting about 160mbps inside our rv with the starlink on the roof.
I'm pre installing a ethernet line to the roof of my van as I build it, just in case I want to add an auxiliary router or direct connect later, but currently my starlink mini has no problem going thru the walls of my van
Is there a reason to pick 12/24 versus the 12/48 for this application? I see a 12/48 (144watt) unit for $25.
@@vincentfox just because the very top range limit for the Starlink mini is 48 V of input so I didn’t want to risk going over that amount. Even 12 V by itself can work fine if you use a shorter and thicker wire. So 24 V was perfect right in the middle.
I have a 15tb be tapping in less than 10'. Since i have a roll of 14awg, do you think that be ok?
@@adventuredave9461 14 awg should be fine for a 10 foot run.
Considering purchasing thr new Starlink Mini for my RV as well as a backup to my Peplink cellular service. Does tge Mini require 24V DC power vs 12V? Is that the need for the 12/24 V converter?
@@markratliff7991 it can work on anything from 12v to 48v. The only reason I stepped up from 12 to 24v was because I was using their factory cable which it too long and narrow for a 12v input at up to 5 amps. If you do 24v you only need 2.5 amps max and usually around .9amps once it’s up and running. But for the car I use a regular 12v cigarette lighter port to barrel plug and it works perfectly fine as long as the wires are shorter (mine are around 6 feet long). This is the one I bought for the car www.amazon.com/dp/B07TFPN9K4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Making sure you used the 240 watt step up?
@@adventuredave9461 you can use any but yes that’s the one I used originally in this video but then switched it out the other day for a 144 watt 12v to 48v step up converter.
I ordered other today, should I cancel for the new one. Only running starlink.
@@adventuredave9461 you’ll be fine with either a 24v or 48v step up converter.
Can you please share why you went from 12-24 to 12-48?
Someone else suggested it since the mini can take up to a 48v input and I’d rather have more volts than more amps.
12 volt is the min, after that long wire it will no longer be 12v at the end due to voltage drop
My understanding is that Starlink Mini requires a 20 volt 5 amp supply, not a 24 volt 10 amp supply. Which way is it . . or does that even matter?
@@outdoorzee919 it doesn’t matter as long as it is up to 60 W of power as the max. When it is running it usually only uses 20 W of power. So you could have 12 V at 5 amp or 24 v at 2.5 amp. Doesn’t matter. It will accept anything from 12-48 volts
No need for this now. They now make new cables for USB C
You still need a usb c plug that can output enough watts. And you’d want it to be a DC plug. The whole point was to get our Starlink off AC power. But yes we also now have the Starlink usb c cable and it works great paired with our 140 watt dc cigarette lighter plug adapter that we use in the car on road trips with the mini.