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@@truculenttabasco haha I didn’t even notice that. Oh well lol 🤣

@@jjsantos3292 thanks!

Very true! Having this setup is great because you can access your Tesla battery to power for a long long time! Here is my referral link that helps me out a little if you do buy that stuff from EcoFlow. us.ecoflow.com?sca_ref=5940955.IIRDmSoxuM&

@@chancejensen9324 thanks! We are taking it from Colorado to Arizona next week so we’ll get to test it all out for the first time!

@ hope you document it. I wanna see how it performs. 😊

@@chancejensen9324I’ll make sure to document it 😉

Do you have a link to the solar panel mounts.

@@maxdrake3649 yep! amzn.to/4ai047c

You still need a usb c plug that can output enough watts. And you’d want it to be a DC plug. The whole point was to get our Starlink off AC power. But yes we also now have the Starlink usb c cable and it works great paired with our 140 watt dc cigarette lighter plug adapter that we use in the car on road trips with the mini.

@@LateNiteGrafix it definitely won’t ruin your alternator. First off that seven pin connectors auxiliary line has a fuse in it, probably a 5-15 amp fuse so the most power it could ever send to your trailer is maybe 60-190 watts of power max. So definitely won’t burn up your alternator. And usually those auxiliary power lines via the seven pin connectors turn off when your tow vehicle is off so as not to drain the tow vehicle battery. You’ll be just fine doing a direct swap from lead acid to lithium. I have done it three times and it’s just fine and never used a dc to dc converter. That’s a load of crap. If the lithium battery pulls too much current the first thing that would happen is the fuse would pop. Oh but the only thing you do need to potentially change is the converter/charger in your teardrop camper if you have one. If it plugs into shore power you should have a converter/charger. Just make sure whatever one you do have is compatible with lithium. There’s nothing that would happen if it’s not, it just won’t charge as fast or all the way to 100% as lead acid batteries have a lower voltage cutoff at 100% than lithium so your lead acid battery charger won’t charge your lithium all the way to 100% unless it’s lithium compatible. Good luck!

Nope no issues at all. I was just using it a few days ago and still works great! I do have a 2022 model y with the updated lithium low voltage battery.

@ I have a 2024 Model Y. Do you think that will make any difference?

@ you should be fine then as you’ll have the lithium low voltage battery also

Have you had a chance to install the charger yet? My Delta 3 Plus finally arrived, and I’m looking forward to hearing about your experience.

@ I’m holding off for a bit, I’m looking at trading it in on a new myp and don’t want to remove it and reinstall it on the new car - just install it on the new car

@ I understand.

@@pussellgut you can get it directly from EcoFlow. And I think they have it on sale right now for $199. Here is the link to their product page. us.ecoflow.com/products/lithium-12v-100ah-deep-cycle-lifepo4-battery?sca_ref=5940955.IIRDmSoxuM

Nope, no impact that I’ve noticed. I’m actually using it right now with the Delta 3+ on a road trip.

I have a delta 2 max that I run a bodega refrigerator/freezer. Currently I am charging it back up via 2 12 volt adapters in my MYLR and get about 150 watts. When camping/tailgating or during a power outage it would be nice to be able to use my tesla battery as a backup Thanks for the info

@@gizmopilot​​⁠ yeah, that’s mainly why I hooked up mine the way I did with the alternator charger because I use it to plug in my travel trailer when we go camping into the Delta 3+ being charged by the alternator charger to work as shore power for the RV

I just ordered one, thanks again!

@@gizmopilot So with the 800W charger and the two 12V connectors, will you be able to charge at approximately 960 watts?

@@jxpat welcome!

@@KA9DSL yeah it was just easier to put it where the old battery was. But you are right. Since it’s lithium we could install it inside the rig and not have to worry about harmful gases leaking from the battery like a lead acid one. And it would keep the temp more stable. Might have to do that.

I actually wrote EcoFlow about that. I was surprised it didn’t have any Bluetooth monitoring that syncs like all their other devices to the EcoFlow app.

Thanks for posting that!

Yeah but I wanted to use the factory cable that came with the starlink as it’s waterproof. So need a higher voltage to push through the smaller factory cable. It’s also watertight for being outside

I actually did end up doing that. And switched to a 48v converter

@@TwistedOutdoor Do you have a link to that 48v converter you switched to? Thanks.

@@cage9 yep! a.co/d/apU6xj7

@@TwistedOutdoor what made you decide to step up more to the 48v from the 24v?

@@austinpugh5812just smaller wires and more voltage sounded nice. And I was rewiring it anyway to add the switch before the step up converter and the switches wires were much smaller gauge so I went with a higher voltage.

Someone else suggested it since the mini can take up to a 48v input and I’d rather have more volts than more amps.

12 volt is the min, after that long wire it will no longer be 12v at the end due to voltage drop

I actually did end up doing that. Also switched it from a 12-24v to a 12-48v step up converter and put it after the switch so it isn’t always powered.

Nope no drop out of signal. It works perfectly. Getting about 160mbps inside our rv with the starlink on the roof.

I'm pre installing a ethernet line to the roof of my van as I build it, just in case I want to add an auxiliary router or direct connect later, but currently my starlink mini has no problem going thru the walls of my van

@@adventuredave9461 you can use any but yes that’s the one I used originally in this video but then switched it out the other day for a 144 watt 12v to 48v step up converter.

I ordered other today, should I cancel for the new one. Only running starlink.

@@adventuredave9461 you’ll be fine with either a 24v or 48v step up converter.

@@adventuredave9461 14 awg should be fine for a 10 foot run.

@@kellyfoley4243 actually the ladder mount ( www.amazon.com/dp/B0CS3GLR43?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) only really worked with the standard actuated STARLINK. The mini I’m not using the Pivot Mount for the mini from STARLINK themselves. ( shop.starlink.com/products/us-consumer-mini-pivot-mount )

@@TwistedOutdoor ok i think i get it. So you are using the mount you linked with the pole from starlink just not their pivot mount did i read that right?

@@kellyfoley4243 I was using the pole adapter that came with the Starlink mini to attach it to the old pole mount from my previous Starlink that was on the ladder. But now I just decided to buy their pivot mount and mount it to the roof of my RV, using eternal bond tape. it’s not shown in the video but that’s what I use now

@@JustaJourneyman I wanted to do it right and let it have its own circuit since I was putting the STARLINK and a set of USB plugs and a 12v cigarette lighter port for a mini cooler. Didn’t want to pull too much power from the existing line.

@@TwistedOutdoor Totally makes sense especially if you're plugging in a mini-cooler. For my RV, I was planning to tap into the 12v behind the fridge, so I could run the wire out the little fridge door access panel. Since my fridge (propane) only uses a few watts of DC power it should be a-okay to add the Starlink (also low wattage) to the same circuit. And... no new holes in the RV, which is always a goal for me.

@@dolivett nice! Yeah that’s right near where I was. Love that hike up to Isabelle Glacier.

@@outdoorzee919 it doesn’t matter as long as it is up to 60 W of power as the max. When it is running it usually only uses 20 W of power. So you could have 12 V at 5 amp or 24 v at 2.5 amp. Doesn’t matter. It will accept anything from 12-48 volts

@@vincentfox just because the very top range limit for the Starlink mini is 48 V of input so I didn’t want to risk going over that amount. Even 12 V by itself can work fine if you use a shorter and thicker wire. So 24 V was perfect right in the middle.

@@mikecrews9450 yes, you can definitely do that. The only problem is it’s hard to find 30 V. They have step up converters for 24 and 48 pretty easily but I didn’t even look for one for 30.

@@markratliff7991 it can work on anything from 12v to 48v. The only reason I stepped up from 12 to 24v was because I was using their factory cable which it too long and narrow for a 12v input at up to 5 amps. If you do 24v you only need 2.5 amps max and usually around .9amps once it’s up and running. But for the car I use a regular 12v cigarette lighter port to barrel plug and it works perfectly fine as long as the wires are shorter (mine are around 6 feet long). This is the one I bought for the car www.amazon.com/dp/B07TFPN9K4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You are correct and good idea. Didn’t even think about the booster always being on. Going to switch it to have the booster after the switch.

The same thought went through my mind as I watched the installation video.

@@robertmuster1350 now that I’m looking at it again though. I definitely need larger wires for the switch if it’s going to go before the booster since the amperage draw is larger before the booster and the switch came with some pretty thin wires.

@ModernMountain, switches are usually rated at a stated amperage. Yes, size your wires accordingly. There are numerous charts available for this. As a general guide, match your wiring in this case to the sizes on the input and output of the device you are installing.

Had you considered using the 100/50mppt battery terminals as source of power for the 12/24volt booster? Would have saved some installation time and money. Would put relay on 12volt side of booster to take any load off the switch Bit of electrial tape around the male and female joiners so not to come loose while travelling

@@discrete57 thank you! I had the same issue with some usb C ports I tried. The cable worked just fine but what I was plugging it into didn’t have enough power via USB C. The following link is to the cable I use when I’m in my car to power the mini. But you do need the output of the USB C port to be able to output up to 100 watts according to Space X Starlink. www.amazon.com/dp/B0D1Y3QTNR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

@@joecool509 starlink still recommends having at least 100 watts of power usable for the mini dish. Not sure why but that’s what they recommended so you can go a little smaller with the converter but I wouldn’t go down to 72 Watts. Try to keep it above 100 watts.

Actually without snow melt it only use 25-35 watts.

1. Yes it always works as long as the car isn’t asleep. I have sentry mode and cabin overheat protection on all the time so my car never goes to sleep. 2. It’s not plugged into the low voltage battery. I have this connected directly to the DC to DC converter under the rear seat area. I would not recommend plugging this into the low voltage battery in the front of the car. You will probably get a lot of warnings and errors. But never had any issues depleting the battery because I’m usually only charging my Delta 2 back up which is only 1kWh of energy. 3. I already installed it and don’t want to take everything apart again to do an installation video. But there are other videos on RUclips that are older showing how to install a regular inverter to that same DC connection point. That’s how I learned where and how to do it.

@@TwistedOutdoor there are also videos showing it connected to 12v battery in both full EV (Bolt) and PHEV (Toyota Rav 4) and providing power to 800w

The newer 16v lithium one

When you're charging have you received any warnings on the screen? Have you ran the air con and turned on audio to see if it still runs ok. If the ecoflow car charger works ok in the Tesla Y with the 16v car house battery this is fantastic.

@@kennear No warnings or anything on screen while the AC and audio was on as I was driving and charging my Delta 2 up at the full 800 watts. So far so good

Cool 👍

@@TwistedOutdoor Any possibility you could show the LV system has 16Vdc with a multimeter, and physically has the new Lithium LV battery while using the alternator charger please? Everything I have read about the 16V LV system says this "wont work" (same issue with DC2AC Inverters), because it will supposedly trip the BMS in the 16V Lithium cell, causing the PCS to shut down, even with the vehicle on and PCS driving the DC2DC rail... If possible would love to see it, and be able to reference the video, because everyone is telling me its "impossible" due to the way the newer 16V LV system works now.

No it cannot charge this way. The DC to DC converter only works one way. Do not try to reverse charge a Tesla this way, you could break the DC converter and ruin your car. Make sure to never ever turn on reverse charging.

Depends on what you are charging with it. For mine, I’m only charging a 1kWh Delta 2. So it only uses 1/75th of my battery or reduces my range by 4 miles, so pretty insignificant compared to the entire vehicle battery. And that’s if you charge it 0-100%. And you can reduce the charging speeds so it doesn’t put a higher load on the DC to DC converter. It can go up to 800 watts charging, which I believe the DC converter in the Tesla model Y has the capability to do 2000 watts to power all electronics in the car. So I set mine at 500 watts so I don’t put a higher load on the car DC converter.