Tillotson 225cc Big Valve Build | 9,000 RPM, 25HP Billet Maniac!
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- The Tillotson 225cc high performance go kart or mini bike engine is already a powerful small engine, but in today's Honda clone build episode of CarsandCameras, we're installing billet parts and doing a ton of DIY head work to the Tillotson 225cc engine to take it from 15 horsepower stock to 25 horsepower. In fact, on Go Power Sports dyno, this engine makes over 30 horsepower running on methanol fuel. The parts list is long and very impressive- this engine build represents the cutting edge of widely available small engine performance parts. Thanks for Watching!
----------------Go Power Sports Parts Used in Today’s Video---------------
Tell them CarsandCameras sent you at checkout:
Tillotson 225RS long block: bit.ly/38VCvzv
Billet side cover: bit.ly/3Nd3QSI
Billet rod: options available, call for your specific application
285 camshaft: bit.ly/3wYW5cs
Billet flywheel: bit.ly/3m3Xx8d
Dual 55lb valve springs: bit.ly/3zhe7cJ
Exhaust valve (25mm): bit.ly/3m5ze9Z
Intake valve (28.5mm): bit.ly/3wYTOOl
Titanium valve retainers: bit.ly/3PUkzfv
Racing coil: bit.ly/3x9rQk0
28mm flat slide carburetor: bit.ly/3oWSFRJ
Header: bit.ly/3x9R2Y0
Chromoly pushrods: call for availability + length
Gauge roller rockers: bit.ly/3m2W2XI
3/16” fuel line: bit.ly/32iAlNe
Fuel filter: bit.ly/3f81xRe
Tillotson oil: bit.ly/3sRRgAk
Facebook: goo.gl/VR6mh2
Instagram: bit.ly/3T8njaF
Go Power Sports: bit.ly/3QKyODE
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The following video features activities performed in controlled environments by knowledgeable persons. DO NOT attempt to duplicate, re-create, or perform the same or similar activities at home, as personal injury or property damage may result. CARS AND CAMERAS, the persons shown in this video and ANY CONTRIBUTOR, ARE NOT LIABLE FOR ANY such injury or damage. ALL CARSANDCAMERAS CONTENT IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY.
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You guys should go on more adventures, you always remind me of the original Top Gear cast, and their adventures were truely legendary!
Thanks for all the great content
I'd love to see them do 3 hot wheel builds and take them on a adventure with Grind Hard Rather B Welding etc etc. That would be EPIC 🔥
Great idea Spyder !!!!
I realized we built a big valve head, but we didn't share the valve specs! Stock is 27mm intake, 25mm exhaust, and we upgraded to stainless steel 28.5mm intake, and 25mm exhaust. Doesn't sound like much, but between the better design, larger intake valve, big cam, 1.3 ratio rockers, heavier valve springs, and lighter components, the valve train is WAY better than even a stock 225.
Y not 32 28mm valve head with a 308 cam
Thanks for the update.
I just got an EC 228r wonder how it compares.
The exhaust port on my DMP 70cc Puch E50, is 25mm.
Still waiting for Tilloston to make a 225 with a dohc head.
I just enjoy watching Isaac and Charles doing all the work. They work so well together.
Putting the lapping compound on the flywheel and crank, is known as, "lapping them together."
This is done on gears, slides on 1911 model pistols.
We did it a lot when building inspection gages in order to obtain very close fitting parts.
I love the longer videos especially engine builds
Love the engine rebuilt that’s awesome you go cars in camera
Motor looks bad ass👍❤️
Instead of running any kind of zinc additive...could always run rotella 15w40 or 5w40 diesel oil. It's loaded with high zinc
If you want 'free' horsepower, use a one way valve in the exhaust runner, attaching a hose from the valve cover and crankcase o the exhaust one way valve. The exhaust flo vacuums crankcase and valve cover pressure. Otherwise you're only pressurizing from top to bottom over and over. Idea is to rid any pressure below the piston which will allow the rings to return on exhaust stroke without pressure on the cylinder wall. A set of Dykes rings would increase power and rid drag on the cylinder wall when not under compression.
Old is new again. I always run the scavenging hoses from the valve covers to the exhaust in order to decrease bottom end pressures. Free ponies from that point forward.
I'm no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but I was wondering why you would pump pressure back and forth between valve cover and crank case, but then add a vent in line.
Okay carsandcameras on the valve lapping compound on the flywheel your half way right if your buying a aftermarket flywheel it could be off a little bit and the tappers not match because sometimes they use a different machine in the factorys or somthing i dont know but what i do know that you do that only because not all flywheels arent perfect for each motor and it could cause unstable movement and destroy your internals or break your flywheel off
please make a drift kart and put this in it, would be prefect
You guys should work with arc racing and do a 5hp Briggs flat head build!
Looking forward to see this installed on the cart.
im just looking forward to seeing what the boys put this monster in, maybe the scooter/moped from last week,
U need to do a video on the 212 ghost. I know ur videos are better and bigger. But everyone's curious about it.
CHAWWW BRUH.... I got my pop-sickle and I'm ready to watch this HOT video and hopefully get inspired.
Wow nice setup the engine I like that my friend
Great vlog Guys! Keep them coming!
it’ll be nice to see a blockzilla build from a Briggs engine
Great video glad to see another engine build 👍 .
Awesome 👍😎
I thought you were going to show us how to port and polishing, and enlarge the valves, all the best to you all
I want that cam, for my scooter build. I want it to sound close as possible to the scooter engine, this is definitely rev happy, just like my scooter, untill it has a load on it, I'm thinking about building a 212 with rod/flywheel, cam springs carb, port the head, mount it on a swing arm, with the rear wheel, maybe wheels, making it a trike, I have the parts ,. I'm thinking about CVT over a clutch, I have revved the original engine over 10500 it just doesn't make enough power, it's no where near stock, I just need to work on the brakes, find the parts needed, to mount a disc brake and sprocket to the rim, get it all to look kinda stock! To be street able!!
if you run it on methanol ditch the flat slide carbs, go with a tillotson 304wxa or a comparable model. I promise you will not be disappointed. you may never go back to a slide carb after using one...
Y’all should do a build with a 356 cam next!
It will be difficult to improve much on the flow of that head by porting ... at least without the ability to test with a flow bench. Most of your gains will be in the valve seat area and around the new guides. Those new valves and re-cutting the valve seat dramatically improve flow which will show up on the dyno.
My only problem is they don't have kickstarters for guys building up little bikes. Growing up I remember my older brother and cousins having kickstarters on the old mini bikes. And some power equipment I can recall having it on the motor....everything from 5hp up to 10hp.
He can tell 1 thou by wiggling the crank. Thata boy
I used to be the same way and buy 12$ quarts of oil. Never again. Try Shell Rotella. T4 or T6. I run t4 in my 15 YZ250F and it has better hookup on clutches (not that these engines have clutches), and it wears better, has zinc in the formula and has tons of weights. Best part is 15$ a GALLON! May be cheap but some good stuff. Shear ratings and other tests it’s up there. Just ignore the whole “diesel oil”. Sounds crazy but I’ll never run another oil in my bike.
um, you have a keyed flywheel and rubbing compound and expecting to see abrasion when spinning? Did I miss understand something?
Deadblow hammer + wolmanized deck railing ='s double damage security.
Ike! Amsoil, buddy.... Talk to them. They like sponsorships.
What makes one oil slinger better than the other?
So the DYI head job that you guys are doing, Is bird gonna hold the bell grinder upside down well well Isaac polishes it and you film it, Haha just a joke have an excellent Wednesday
Didn't y'all do this build with a 212 some time ago?
Hi im new to go karts and i was wondering wheat i should use in my predator 224cc after the break in period would full synthetic 5w30 be fine or should i use full synthetic 10w30? Thanks if you can help. I live in florida.
What is the name of the valve cutter setup? I didn’t see it in the description.
Nice
ya'll need to make yourselfs a run table... Bolt your engines on during run time instead of using foot
Ok, it's time to get off the floor. You need to build a engine build and test stand to run you motors on. It should have a engine oil catch pan or bucket.
Could never dish out the extra for the side cover that you gotta be more careful taking off
The biggest difference in the rod's is that one is forged and one is billet. I will leave it up to yall professional engine builders to research the difference.
Cmon rookies almost fried the motor with that cold start 😭
know what, ive looked and i aint seen a single video of a old pony motor used on a go-kart, weather a john deere v4 or a cat flat twin, aint seen anyone mout one of them things to a go-kart
i dont think it would be extremely hard, make an adapter to go from the output to a standard clutch, maybe a torque converter, add a standard carburetor that has a proper throttle, and you should be good to go
How come ya didn’t port match
Why didn't you change the piston
2nd click was 51lbs. Only 1 click gentlemen.
You guys are freaking out over 9k rpm while my kt100 2 stroke is chilling at 11k
is it an Eye-crometer or an Ike-crometer?
I think this is the PDF version of that 225RS manual with the torque specs, run in procedure etc
tillotson.ie/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/3949-FLY-T225RS-User-Manual-A4-03-16P.pdf
The Ikerometer needs to be a T-shirt. At a previous job we had to observe ASTM testing methods. My boss Jerry would fudge the numbers and thus implemented JSTM testing. It all works.
Eye-crometer
@@aaron7520 it's a play on Ike's name!
ike-rometer!
The eyecrometer has much closer tolerences than the Ikecrometer ever will do to aging optic faculties and the "Aw hell send it, it'll be fine" factor.
Big companies would like to know your bosses location
You know it's a serious CarsandCameras build when the "click" is real. Awesome build, can't wait to see do a hotlap.
I gotta admit that when Charles first got added to the team I thought it was gonna mess with the dynamic of your videos but I was dead wrong and think he is a great addition and brings a lot to the channel.
Charles in charge big time
This engine is a monster! What should we put it on first?
The Ruckus!
the yard dart!!
Ruckus!
Put it on the mtd minibike
Just for kicks, the smallest real car in the fleet?
I’ve been subscribed since freshman year of high school, maybe earlier. I’m 23 now and still enjoy every video like when I was younger. Always enjoy seeing a cars and camera video pop up! Especially lately, lots of cool projects going on
Card and Cameras 😆🤣 sorry bro but that was funny 🤣 We all screw up some times lol ✌️
I would love to see you guys do a video on how not to build an engine with the worst parts you can find and the worst technique, maybe a competition to see who can fry an engine first
Rtv wars coming I can see it.
The easiest way to destroy a small engine like this is to turn it into a race engine but cheap out by using the stock cast connecting rod, which will be thrown right through the side of the block at sustained high revs.
Ike, so much knowledge to give and so good at presenting it. Charles seems to really know his stuff, too, with the added levity. And John brings it all together. Great channel all around, fellas. I always look forward to another episode. Looking forward to some car build stuff. I get some of that from Ike's channel. Keep them coming!
It would be nice to see more use of the already existing builds. It seems like it's just one project after another. It would be cool to see old builds revamped with your current skills and resources
I agree. There are lots of builds that need finishing/tuning. Most of our energy has gone into building out the new shop (going on a month now), so our regular uploads have been less episodic. We're planning on getting back to finishing other builds soon. Thanks for the comment.
@@CarsandCameras looking forward to it !
You can use an offset key in the key way to advance the timing, two fuel pumps, methanol fuel, bore the block 0.030 over.
Does the offset key just change the ignition timing, or the cam timing?
@@jeffrykopis5468 ignition timing
Thank you for the 2nd click, i was taught to always do 2 clicks when using a torque wrench; many times i do it and the nut moves just a little bit more before clicking the 2nd time
Hey cars and cameras love the content keep up the great work
I always heard you gap exaust a little more than intake because exhaust valve gets hotter and metal expands more and the intake gets cooled off by fresh air fuel
been waiting for this all week work is a pain in the ass and watching y'all makes the week a little bit better
Man this is my favorite kind of video from you guys!!! You guys have no idea how much y’all have inspired me. Just did my first big build on a predator 224, tires out pretty nice if I do say so myself. Thank you guys!! Y’all are awesome!!!
Nice thing with the methanol is it will definitely run cooler. More Power is a plus as well. Cooler And More Power - Mo Mo Betta!
You know if you want to check a valve seat all you need is some DyeChem or a sharpie. Just color over the area in question and push the valve into it. Rotate it a little and see where it removed the sharpie or other marking fluid. Its easy enough to clean off with a bit of isopropyl alcohol.
I'd love to see you guys collaborate with the "Robot Cantina" channel! Ya'll would like his Predator powered Honda Insight project.
Using the compound is to ensure a good tapered fit when you decide to remove the timing key completely. The timing key is just that, a timing key. Its not what holds the flywheel in place, its used to line up timing. Myself as well as many others remove these keys completely when advancing timing. The taper on the crank is what holds the flywheel in place. We just use the compound as seen here to make that tapered fit even stronger since we remove the key. FYI, advancing a quarter width of the key is around 7 degrees advanced.
Nice engine! Looking forward to the first rip on whatever you throw it on.
btw offering higher res videos doesnt help much when the source is always blurry and out of focus
I usually freeze my parts overnight if possible. That way I know they’re cold as they can be but good video regardless.
Man I'm not getting notifications. This video says 13 hours ago, and no notification on my end found it while browsing. Long-time subscriber check all my bells and whistles, what's up. Peace out guys keep on rolling🇺🇲🇺🇲
I’m not getting notifications either . Wonder if RUclips is messin with the boys .
55lb springs is to much for that cam just so u know I run 36lb springs with a 292 cam and I get 9800rpms out of my 236r and even it’s not 30hp u guys are gonna be probably making 23ish hp that’s all
This is a GPS marketing video not a build video and on a reputable dyno like Brad Hills dyno (dyno used in the small engine builders competition)this engine would be lucky to make close to 20hp and a 5+hp gain switching to methanol? Bwahahaha! The average is around 2hp the lies GPS tells just to sell parts crack me up
I’m early yay I love you videos you guys inspired me to buy a go kart and work on it 😃 have a nice day and I have bin sub for 2 years now
Charles seems more confident on the camera, but here is some advice for him. Just speak louder, don’t mumble and pretend you are a host in radio.
I'd say the bottom end is the meat and the top is the potatoes 🤔 🤣
You're right about not lapping valves. There needs to be a 1 degree difference between valve head and seat. This difference goes away at temperature because the valve head gets way hotter than the seat, therefore different expansion. You really need a PCV to keep the crankcase under vacuum. This reduces oil leaks and helps keep the crank motion from pushing all the oil to the sides of the case.
How can you cut a valve seat an set the valve in and say it looks good. You can’t tell a single thing from setting a valve into its home. Not even a valve pro of 100 years could set valve in and decide if it’s good or not. That was purely a scratch ticket gamble. When you lap then you see the contact on valve and see contact on the seat. It’s the absolute only way possible to know a single thing. Unless you have a bench leak down tester. Just crazy you’d lap a flywheel to see everything your needing to see but then you cut new valve seats and just winged it on if it’s seating correctly. And doing it by hand I can guarantee I mean absolutely guaranteed that valve is not sealing 100% with out hand lapping it. Lapping grinds them seating surfaces in. Not a chance them seats are 100% with out lapping them. Let’s remember we cut seat by hand in your lap. Not even on a stable bench. Your legs were torcing and hands were torcing if there was a most important time to lap a valve it would be from hand citing valve seat while heads in your lap on a swivel chair. Hp build just tossed horse power in the trash over 5 min lapping job. Now have fun chasing spark plug heat rages and carb running and coil gap and timing ect in the very near future. Or just be happy with less power I guess. That valve cutter wasn’t made for that valve. Like they were not made side by side at same time and lapped for ea other. That’s why lapping is so important unless you have bench leak test on hand. An you’d only skip lapping if you used a real cutter set up. Not cutting by hand in your lap. I love you guys I’m not like dogging you guys. But I gotta call it out. This just needs to be torn down and done. Lil time and a gasket no big deal. I’d go backwards to to it with no thought into it. It must be a joke. No one told you not to. This must be a prank. Y’all know wat better then that. And you’ll nvr know the valves leak as you don’t know the engine with non leaking valves so you’ll just think the engine is running top performance but it’s not. Cause leaking valves doesn’t mean misfires ect unless super bad. But leaking valves mean hp left on the table and hp build means your trying to do opposite of that. I leaked down my stang heads on real head shop fer fun almost all had leaks and thing ripped. But period hp left on table. Was putting aftermarket heads on and was doing a leak check on brand new heads witch cheacked out great but old head leaked multi valves and I didn’t suspect that was going to be the case at all no indication. But fact is hp in the bucket rather then the engine
So $1600 for 25 hp...
I would like to see how cheap you guys can make 25 hp with similar reliability.
Type 1 Eyemomiter says, yup, 10 thou.
There’s a new mini Massimo mini bike with full suspension at Lowe’s for $699. Looks like you have to have to order and pick it up in store. You guys might have to try one lol
If u have never expierenced with methanol before. Then u better becareful. My drag car uses methanol fuel. I use it cause u don't need a radiator if ur running methanol fuel. Cause the motor is always cool. I use a radiator when i use regular gas when i am cruising around town.
Love the videos man can't wait for more bangers
you can use diesel oil for the break-in ... it has zinc and other vitamins the engine likes .....
I'm pretty sure lapping the valves is only necessary if you are unable to cut a new 3 angle valve job.
The smart thing to do would have been to break in the.cam at lower rpms with the spring's that came With that engine 💡
Get some fire proof clothes when using methanol because you can’t see it burning
I was waiting for Isaac to say "It'll Be Fine"....
Ike should be a half hammer.
Cause he’s holding it half way up the handle
I’ve seen 10k and 16hp out of a bone stock long block it on methanol to the tire of a kart
You guys should look into check valves and exhaust scavenging for PCV.. The exhaust gasses vacuum out the crank case gasses and it's good for more horsepower. 5-8 hp on a 355 oval track motor.
285 that's it come on guys y'all got more than that
Ya'll didn't want get rid of the governor gear and clean up the casting on the crank and go ahead and knife edge it to get rid of windage which = MO POWA BABY!
Tsk,tsk,tsk,,, No bee hive valve springs? lol
It's been a lot of fun watching y'all progress over the last few years to, at times, almost seeming like you actually know what you're talking about (teasing). I know I.C.E. motor's aren't going anywhere anytime soon, but I wonder how long until you guys do a project with an electric power train?
roller rockers on a small engine I love it!
Man that thing sounds wicked! Can’t wait to see that on something and going, around the course or track or whatever! Get er did boys, get er did!!!
This valve cover vent line into crankcase is total BS.
i love these builds do more plz love the vids.
you would think that putting to heavy of a valve spring will add to more wear on the cam and valves
Need a heavier valve spring to keep the valve closed at high rpm. Otherwise the valves would float and never close all the way.
a delicious tilerson wait how much butter
Incredible build guys,, can’t wait to see the go fast goodies for the 459
Seen red beard build a ghost great little engine keep up the content 👍
That is one good looking motor you guys built ! I think it’s going to be a real beast can’t wait to see what you stick it in ,and what it will do ! great video guys and great work!👍🏼🤩💪🏼