I found that using the Cold Galvanizing compound paint from Lowes at 60mm/sec and 95% power left an incredible smooth black etch in the glass, at much slower speed it frosted the glass. I think it left a better image in black than the more expensive charcoal glass spray from Enduramark. It worked on tile the same way at 90mm/sec at 90% power. This is on the 10w version of the D1.
I tried 60mm/sec 95% power with galvanizing compound and it looked really good until I washed off the burnt paint and it left a very faint etching, too fast to really effect the glass. Using xtool d1 pro 10 watt. I think I’m going to try the black tempera technique tommorow.
I appreciate the videos you have made for etching glass. When I first bought my D1, pint glasses were the main idea I had. I have been able to etch the glass using this method, but I’m actually ending up with a super light etch and would like a better image so I could actually sell them. I’m not sure if you have any tips on getting a darker etch or not but I would really appreciate it.
A little more CGC might do it. Sometimes designs need to be inverted in order for them to show up better. Also slowing the laser or increasing DPI might help. Cheers
Thanks for the video Nick. First of yours I've watched. You seem to have played / worked with the cylinder engraving tool more than most so I'll ask you. Will this attachment do a small enough diameter to etch the handle of a pool cue? If you think it might, do you have any tips / tricks I might need other than the levelling that you just made very clear. I am buying an Atomstack X7. Also do you suggest air assist? Thanks again for your video. I really like your detailed but Not boring approach.
Great video, only thing is that it’s 2 yrs old, any chance you have a newer video using XCS? I’m super new to engraving and I’m ready to mess up my wife’s kitchen glasses with my new rotary lol
I was researching Glowforge and Xtool came up in my FB feed, so I started researching and all info pointed to D1 over Glowforge, so I bought the bundle with the rotary tool. I am getting close, 5 our of 8 boxes have been delivered, so I am binge watching your videos! I started out with Cricut (cutting machine), added sublimation (ink turning to gas to sublimate on various things: T-shirts, tumblers, everything the D1 can do, but a different technique)! I would happily buy your top subscription if you got a better camera. We cannot see anything you do in the app, it's all blurry. That is an important part, along with you setting up you substrate in the honeycomb or rotary device. Love your humor and even your mistakes! Look forward to watching more!
Have you done a coffee cup yet? Thank you for sharing your time and talent again. You always give me a good laugh and I walk away with a good deal of knowledge! Keep on rocking!
hello, enjoy your video's. Wanted to pass along a tip. You should try tempura paint instead of the galvanizing spray. I have gotten the same results with tempura paint as the with the spray. Pros: tempura easier to clean up and non toxic, also way cheaper. Cons: takes a bit for a thick coat of tempura to dry, so I use heat gun to flash dry it. Just wanted to pass it on, in case you wanted to give it a shot.
@@cynthiasparks7545 I personally use a foam brush and one heavy coat of tempura paint. Lightly drag the tempura with one stroke, dont go over it again without reloading your foam brush.
I ordered the new and improved rotary attachment and it finally shipped yesterday. 2-3 weeks hopefully is all I'm waiting for it to travel from Hong Kong to Wisconsin, but who knows how long it will take.
Nice video/tutorial. Did the Duff logo come out square or smaller at the bottom than the top? The finished product was only shown for a blink of a second. It would be nice to see how you handle the "warp", if at all.
I love your videos I’m in the look for a laser to have fun with and so far the X TOOL 20w package is what I’m looking to get and your making it more easy for me to make the purchase.Thank you for making these videos
I'm genuinely asking this... at 12mm/second, how long did it take to etch that image? I'm currently following your steps for a 3"x3" logo on a beer mug, and it's saying it's gonna take almost 8 hours! Is that about right?
@BuildDadBuild appreciate the reply. I realized about halfway thru my etching that you said 12mm per SECOND... and I was an idiot and set it to 12mm per MINUTE 😅 at least this was just a test piece! Appreciate your videos, brother!
@@BuildDadBuild thanks done that . Going to do another power test. I saw your on call galvanize compound spray paint so got the paint. Hope this actually works. .
Thank you for such a VERY useful video. However, I cannot get that compound in my country. What else can be placed on the glassbefore engraving? Also, is the compound easy to remove?
Nick.. I've been experimenting with different mediums for etching glass (Dry Moly, Zinc/Galvanizing, Tempera, Tape, etc...), and have found that most mediums are "about" equal. Side note, at least with the galvanizing I am using, I run a second pass to burn off excess material left behind on first pass.... but, I digress.. The point of my post, and I do have one, is to ask you a question: have you tried using "Rub'n Buff" (get yer mind outta the gutter!) on the etched part of the glass? I have watched several videos of the folks who do chemical etching of glass follow-up with Rub'n Buff to bring color to their glass etchings (gold leaf, copper, ebony, etc...). I am going to experiment on some of my existing test pieces this weekend, but wondered if you had already seen this product. If you see this and are interested in my results... let me know and I'll be happy to share.
I am having a lot of trouble. I do the line test to get the rotations per mm. Then I do and engrave a logo and it is very skewed. So then I go do the line test again, and then get that set to where the two ends meet again, then go back and engrave the logo, well its still skewed. I have the cup flat even though it is slanted. And then when I get any type of engraving, the glass from the engraved part chips. So i try new settings, and nothing seems to work.
It's hard to notice, but did you adjust the width of the square image to make it still look square when viewing it on a round object ? As for the paint I use Vallejo black primer and apply it with my airbrush.
I had a question, I’ve done some glass engraving, I’ve noticed when I use Black colored rust oleum paint my colors are different vs when I use white colored paint, would grey be a good idea? What color paint would you recommend as a mask?
With the glass tapering, how did you determine circumference? Did you use the opening of the glass or the middle of the glass? Any insight is appreciated! Keep up the awesome videos!
Why do you need circumference? The images are measured by width. If you are concerned with where the image will be placed I would measure the circumference in the middle of the engravable area. Cheers
If you do the same method but incline on the opposite side. The glass will be prevent to walk down cause it’ll be on the mechanic edge of the roller , acting like a stopper
Thank you for amazing work you share Nick,would you recommend running this tool in a small home with little ventilation or is it better option in workshop?
You definitely need some sort of ventilation. If you were going to run it in a home, I would suggest building or buying an enclosure with some sort of venting option. Cheers!
Bro please tell me you watched the Xtool d1 20w livestream..... Dude KILLER....... THEY BUILT A 20W DIODE LASER THAT YOU JUST SWAP OUT FOR THE 5 0R 10 W IN YOUR D1....
Hi! I have a question and I hope you can answer it. When you laser engrave onto a pint glass, does it come out smooth or is the glass going to be jagged like it was chipped away?
followed your video. Its a good one, but i had one problem. One of my letters came out kind of 'stretched' out then the others... any idea why that is?
Your videos are great and so helpful! Have you seen or tried the Sculpfun S9? I'm looking for a larger work space and deeper cuts. I wonder also if a camera can be added to any of the diode lasers? Or if you can mix and match accessories, like the rotary?
I got to use the S6...it was a decent unit. Have not had the pleasure of working with the S9. Some of the accessories are mix and match. You just need to make sure you've got the same connectors! Cheers
Thanks for all the great videos! When I used the cold galvanizing compound on glass it etched the image in black. I thought it would be the white frosted look like yours. Do you have any idea why mine etched black?
I solved this problem by just placing a heavy object in the way in the direction of the walk (in my case a tea tin with some weights in it) - cheap, fast, and at least for my purposes results have been great.
Nick, I appreciate this video, as I'm new to the laser engraving game...my girlfriend wants to personalize and give stemless champagne flutes to her bridesmaids and I think this vid will definitely help me...but my concern is the tulip shape of the glasses...they're actually pink-colored coated steel stemless flutes...so not EXACTLY like the pint glasses, but sort of.....clear as mud?
Very cool. You're further making me want to get one of these and quit my day job! LOL This looks a lot easier than using etching cream or a diamond stylus for my rotary tool!
This is awesome! And entertaining 😆 Thanks! Trying to figure out my Atomstack Roller in my Lightburn software and the doorstop thing will come in handy!
@@BuildDadBuild Do you tape off the image somehow before using the lacquer thinner or are you just very careful? I didn’t see a super thick border on your image
Alright I'm etching some glass for my brother in law and I found that I have like flaking. So I scrape the coat of etching off and get an alright image but I lose all detail. I guess my ? Is am I supposed to scrape off the etched part?
I have the xTool d1 also but when I engrave glass on those settings with cold galv or Cermark I always get a burnt layer and spots of discoloration,any pointers?
@@BuildDadBuild you said to use "stainless" settings, I believe you were using laserbox at the time, xcs has 3 different stainless settings, I can translate to 20w if I can ever figure out where to start..
@@BuildDadBuild Brilliance Laser Ink, Cermark, there's a few, but never tried the compound you were using, I made the remark that I would love to see if the compound stuff worked with the Fiber like the other sprays do...
We've been using the rastolium cold galvanizing spray paint, but aint, but our glasses keep coming out with the image black Rather than frosted white. How do I combat that? Thanks
I found that using the Cold Galvanizing compound paint from Lowes at 60mm/sec and 95% power left an incredible smooth black etch in the glass, at much slower speed it frosted the glass. I think it left a better image in black than the more expensive charcoal glass spray from Enduramark. It worked on tile the same way at 90mm/sec at 90% power. This is on the 10w version of the D1.
Good to know!
I tried 60mm/sec 95% power with galvanizing compound and it looked really good until I washed off the burnt paint and it left a very faint etching, too fast to really effect the glass. Using xtool d1 pro 10 watt. I think I’m going to try the black tempera technique tommorow.
Do you change speed and power for frosted look? D1 pro 20w.
@@Dhump007 what did you come up with for your settings for the 20w
Can you tell us the 20W settings?
I appreciate the videos you have made for etching glass. When I first bought my D1, pint glasses were the main idea I had. I have been able to etch the glass using this method, but I’m actually ending up with a super light etch and would like a better image so I could actually sell them. I’m not sure if you have any tips on getting a darker etch or not but I would really appreciate it.
A little more CGC might do it. Sometimes designs need to be inverted in order for them to show up better.
Also slowing the laser or increasing DPI might help.
Cheers
Idk what I would do without you! Your videos are everything!
Wow, thank you!
Thanks for the video Nick. First of yours I've watched. You seem to have played / worked with the cylinder engraving tool more than most so I'll ask you. Will this attachment do a small enough diameter to etch the handle of a pool cue? If you think it might, do you have any tips / tricks I might need other than the levelling that you just made very clear. I am buying an Atomstack X7. Also do you suggest air assist?
Thanks again for your video. I really like your detailed but Not boring approach.
Yes on the pool cue. Air assist is going to be more important if you are cutting.
Great video, only thing is that it’s 2 yrs old, any chance you have a newer video using XCS? I’m super new to engraving and I’m ready to mess up my wife’s kitchen glasses with my new rotary lol
Use Lightburn.
What's the process for cleaning off the paint after you're done printing. I'm assuming just use the paint thinner.
Yup.
I was researching Glowforge and Xtool came up in my FB feed, so I started researching and all info pointed to D1 over Glowforge, so I bought the bundle with the rotary tool. I am getting close, 5 our of 8 boxes have been delivered, so I am binge watching your videos! I started out with Cricut (cutting machine), added sublimation (ink turning to gas to sublimate on various things: T-shirts, tumblers, everything the D1 can do, but a different technique)! I would happily buy your top subscription if you got a better camera. We cannot see anything you do in the app, it's all blurry. That is an important part, along with you setting up you substrate in the honeycomb or rotary device. Love your humor and even your mistakes! Look forward to watching more!
Not sure what to tell you, I shoot and edit in 1080p.
Cheers
Thank you for the information. Never thought about lifting one end of the roller up to make it level.
Sometimes is so simple you overlook it! LOL
Cheers
What is the wedge you used to level the roller and where can I purchase one.....Great Video answered a lot of questions I had.
LOL. They’re just wide door stops!
amzn.to/3Gqjfhg
Cheers!
Thanks so much, found your link in Amazon....
Have you done a coffee cup yet? Thank you for sharing your time and talent again. You always give me a good laugh and I walk away with a good deal of knowledge! Keep on rocking!
I have not. However, I have had enough interest that I need to head to the thrift store and find some practice mugs!
Cheers
Thanks for your video! Mighty helpful. Can you use this technique to engrave images…( not vector files). Thanks much
Sure
hello, enjoy your video's. Wanted to pass along a tip. You should try tempura paint instead of the galvanizing spray. I have gotten the same results with tempura paint as the with the spray. Pros: tempura easier to clean up and non toxic, also way cheaper. Cons: takes a bit for a thick coat of tempura to dry, so I use heat gun to flash dry it.
Just wanted to pass it on, in case you wanted to give it a shot.
There is actually a box of tempura paint sitting in the shop right now!
Cheers
Hello! How thick of a coating are you putting on? Mine is streaky and see thru after like 5 coats
@@cynthiasparks7545 I personally use a foam brush and one heavy coat of tempura paint. Lightly drag the tempura with one stroke, dont go over it again without reloading your foam brush.
@@cohode6290 Did you mean Tempera? I have been looking for tempura paint but none found!
@@TheDanzman1211 Yes, bad spelling on my part.
I ordered the new and improved rotary attachment and it finally shipped yesterday. 2-3 weeks hopefully is all I'm waiting for it to travel from Hong Kong to Wisconsin, but who knows how long it will take.
Its worth it. That thing rocks!
@@BuildDadBuild I'm extremely excited.
Bro! I don't know how long it.would.have taken me to think of leveling the rollers brilliant!
Great information. What roller are you using ?
The original rotary that came with the xTool before they upgraded to the RA2
@@BuildDadBuild Oh, that's why I didn't recognize it. Thanks sir.
Nice video/tutorial. Did the Duff logo come out square or smaller at the bottom than the top? The finished product was only shown for a blink of a second. It would be nice to see how you handle the "warp", if at all.
No warp. It was all good. 👍🏻
Hi nick
Thanks for the educational video, much appreciated.
What's the settings on your laser for engraving this glass 🤔
100% power, 12/mms
Cheers
I love your videos I’m in the look for a laser to have fun with and so far the X TOOL 20w package is what I’m looking to get and your making it more easy for me to make the purchase.Thank you for making these videos
I'm genuinely asking this... at 12mm/second, how long did it take to etch that image? I'm currently following your steps for a 3"x3" logo on a beer mug, and it's saying it's gonna take almost 8 hours! Is that about right?
Sounds close. Depends on how detailed the image is.
@BuildDadBuild appreciate the reply. I realized about halfway thru my etching that you said 12mm per SECOND... and I was an idiot and set it to 12mm per MINUTE 😅 at least this was just a test piece! Appreciate your videos, brother!
Hi Nick . Got a dum question on Flat Glass for a laser. Laser glass Acrylic etching
You’ll have to do a speed and power grid for best settings.
@@BuildDadBuild thanks done that . Going to do another power test. I saw your on call galvanize compound spray paint so got the paint. Hope this actually works. .
Hay sweet. Got a questions can you use card stock To engravean image? And can diode laser cut glass? 🤓🧐
Great video again. Do you think the fry moly would work as the coating?
You mean remove the coating?
I mean apply dry moly like you do on metal. I was just wondering if it would would work like the tempera coating.
Not sure.
Thank you for such a VERY useful video. However, I cannot get that compound in my country. What else can be placed on the glassbefore engraving?
Also, is the compound easy to remove?
I've heard tempura paint works...
Nick.. I've been experimenting with different mediums for etching glass (Dry Moly, Zinc/Galvanizing, Tempera, Tape, etc...), and have found that most mediums are "about" equal. Side note, at least with the galvanizing I am using, I run a second pass to burn off excess material left behind on first pass.... but, I digress..
The point of my post, and I do have one, is to ask you a question: have you tried using "Rub'n Buff" (get yer mind outta the gutter!) on the etched part of the glass?
I have watched several videos of the folks who do chemical etching of glass follow-up with Rub'n Buff to bring color to their glass etchings (gold leaf, copper, ebony, etc...). I am going to experiment on some of my existing test pieces this weekend, but wondered if you had already seen this product.
If you see this and are interested in my results... let me know and I'll be happy to share.
I've never heard of it, but will check it out.
You can share your results on my Discord channel:
discord.gg/PTBeEwV9
Cheers!
@@BuildDadBuild Just joined and uploaded to #pictures ... enjoy!
hi, does xcs software have simular settings to the basic software u are using? cheers mate. love the work!
Yes
what kind of spray do you use on the glass before you engrave it? what other options do u have instead of spray?
Cold Galvenizing compound
How do you removed the cold galvanized compound? Do you just wipe it down with a clothe or need some kind of chemical to remove it? Thanks!
Lacquer thinner
Great informative videos. My laser will be here this week and I can't wait to start using it!
Have fun!
I am having a lot of trouble. I do the line test to get the rotations per mm. Then I do and engrave a logo and it is very skewed. So then I go do the line test again, and then get that set to where the two ends meet again, then go back and engrave the logo, well its still skewed. I have the cup flat even though it is slanted. And then when I get any type of engraving, the glass from the engraved part chips. So i try new settings, and nothing seems to work.
Try weighting the cup so it doesn't slip while engraving.
@@BuildDadBuild it doesn’t slip
Then your belts are loose or the laser head isn't seated properly.
Can I ask what version of XTool that your using. I want to be able to etch glass quickly. Thanks in advance
I think that was the xTool D1 10W
Great video! How do you get the paint off?
I use lacquer thinner.
Cheers
Just ordered my X Tool D1 using your discount code! Thanks, and keep up the good work!
Awesome!
You'll love it.
It's hard to notice, but did you adjust the width of the square image to make it still look square when viewing it on a round object ? As for the paint I use Vallejo black primer and apply it with my airbrush.
No. I did not adjust.
I had a question, I’ve done some glass engraving, I’ve noticed when I use Black colored rust oleum paint my colors are different vs when I use white colored paint, would grey be a good idea? What color paint would you recommend as a mask?
This is the only thing I've used to date. But I'd give grey a shot!
Cheers
With the glass tapering, how did you determine circumference? Did you use the opening of the glass or the middle of the glass? Any insight is appreciated! Keep up the awesome videos!
Why do you need circumference? The images are measured by width. If you are concerned with where the image will be placed I would measure the circumference in the middle of the engravable area.
Cheers
@Breaking _BeatZ Depends on the material of the mag. You may need a transfer agent.
If you do the same method but incline on the opposite side. The glass will be prevent to walk down cause it’ll be on the mechanic edge of the roller , acting like a stopper
Love your videos. Can you share where you got your base from for the Xtool?
What base?
That is one janky ass setup. I love it!
what do you do with steins? glass steins with handle?
Ofset with weight
Thank you for amazing work you share Nick,would you recommend running this tool in a small home with little ventilation or is it better option in workshop?
You definitely need some sort of ventilation. If you were going to run it in a home, I would suggest building or buying an enclosure with some sort of venting option.
Cheers!
@@BuildDadBuild the Louisiana hobby guy has a video on a enclosure an its cheep an pretty swaeeeet
Bro please tell me you watched the Xtool d1 20w livestream..... Dude KILLER....... THEY BUILT A 20W DIODE LASER THAT YOU JUST SWAP OUT FOR THE 5 0R 10 W IN YOUR D1....
Hell yeah!
They're supposed to be shipping me one to play with!
Cheers
Hi! I have a question and I hope you can answer it. When you laser engrave onto a pint glass, does it come out smooth or is the glass going to be jagged like it was chipped away?
I wouldn't say jagged, but you can feel the roughness of the etch.
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild Would you recommend to put some kind of clear coating over the glass to smooth it all the way around? Thanks for the reply!
have you tried the water cleanable stuff you do ceramic tiles with on glass?
Yes. Works great.
I like your little stand you have for your laptop where’d you get it at.
Amazon of course! 🤣🤣
amzn.to/3ulbyTo
Thank you
Doorstop 🤯 Thanks Nick!
Sure thing!
Quick question what did you use to put inside the cup so the laser doesnt go through it?
The transfer agent makes it opaque
What did you use to clean the compound off the glass once engraving was done?
Lacquer Thinner
Friend,I really appreciate your work. We are looking for reviewers, would you like to review Longer's 3D printer & laser engraver?
Colored or tinted glassware. Do we know if we need the spray?
Yea. Anything transparent for the most part
have you done a mirror yet, where do you get all your pics from ? i just got my x tool d1 never tried anything like this before
I haven't done a mirror yet.
I get my pics from all over. I design some of them. And find others online.
Cheers
followed your video. Its a good one, but i had one problem. One of my letters came out kind of 'stretched' out then the others... any idea why that is?
Usually means your piece is slipping on the rotary.
Is the xTool D1 a blue laser? I want to get a better pair of glasses than the ones that came with it. Suggestions of laser safety glasses? Thank man!
Yes it has a blue beam.
These are the ones I have and love them!
amzn.to/34ilrYm
Cheers
1:04 is it food safe after lasering? I want to engrave flat melted wine bottles to use as chees plate
yes
Hi how you doing this is Junior I was wondering what settings you use to make that cut I just bought a machine last week 10 watts.
I used the settings for stainless steel.
Cheers
Mine slides when it’s at an angle… any idea how to prevent that? I’m using the ortur rotary
weight the glass.
@@BuildDadBuild I’ll try that.
Your videos are great and so helpful! Have you seen or tried the Sculpfun S9? I'm looking for a larger work space and deeper cuts. I wonder also if a camera can be added to any of the diode lasers? Or if you can mix and match accessories, like the rotary?
I got to use the S6...it was a decent unit. Have not had the pleasure of working with the S9.
Some of the accessories are mix and match. You just need to make sure you've got the same connectors!
Cheers
BuildDadBuild, thanks for the code man, saved me 50 bucks. Nice video BTW, enjoyed the education!
SWEET!!
do you wipe off the rest of the spray with alcohol after the laser burned it and the part that the laser burned stays only or?
I wipe the rest off with lacquer thinner.
Cheers!
how long did take to laser the duff glass ?
Bout 30 minutes.
What is a rolling toolbox?
So what happens if I use a regular spray paint like black or green. Will it work.? Does it etch that color.?
I really don't know.
Thanks for all the great videos! When I used the cold galvanizing compound on glass it etched the image in black. I thought it would be the white frosted look like yours. Do you have any idea why mine etched black?
Usually that means you are burning too hot or using too much CGC
@@BuildDadBuild Thanks!!
Awesome, Nick! Keep kicking ass!!
Currently taking names...
LOL
Cheers!
@@BuildDadBuild love it bud hahaha
I have found that shimming the rotary can cause the item, like a large glass, to walk down hill causing the engrave pattern to shift.
That's why I did another video showing how to make a jig. I've found anything more than a pint glass doesn't "tilt" all that well.
Cheers
I solved this problem by just placing a heavy object in the way in the direction of the walk (in my case a tea tin with some weights in it) - cheap, fast, and at least for my purposes results have been great.
Oh my gosh Wowzers. Can this be done on a 5W laser? lol
I believe so.
@@BuildDadBuild sweet 😁 thanks
How does gravity not cause the glass to slide down the rollers while spinning?
You think this would work on clear acrylic?
I wouldn't want to try and get that off on clear acrylic. Try tempura paint.
Thank you!
Nick, I appreciate this video, as I'm new to the laser engraving game...my girlfriend wants to personalize and give stemless champagne flutes to her bridesmaids and I think this vid will definitely help me...but my concern is the tulip shape of the glasses...they're actually pink-colored coated steel stemless flutes...so not EXACTLY like the pint glasses, but sort of.....clear as mud?
You really want to look at the RA2 Pro. It will be SUPER HELPFUL
ruclips.net/video/JrVSyI-O-mk/видео.html
Cheers!
They now sell a pro version of the roatating tool. it has different clamps and adapters for any shape. Xtool RAD 2 Pro
What did you do to "STRIP" the paint off with? any special technique?
Lacquer Thinner
You mention use laserbox basic - all over google it's saying don't use on a D1 Pro, any idea why - oh great video....
Their new software is XCS. This is an old video.
@@BuildDadBuild And that's what I've got on my system....
Can you use regular spray paint for this?
Honestly, I don't know. Haven't tried it.
Cheers
would love a redo of this video with the new rotary from xtool.
Very cool. You're further making me want to get one of these and quit my day job! LOL This looks a lot easier than using etching cream or a diamond stylus for my rotary tool!
This is awesome! And entertaining 😆 Thanks! Trying to figure out my Atomstack Roller in my Lightburn software and the doorstop thing will come in handy!
Check out Louisiana Hobby Guy's RUclips channel. He's the Lightburn guru.
Cheers
This video is great. Only question is what do clean the glass with after engraving. Thanks
Mineral spirits or lacquer thinner works well.
What Craig said! LOL
I use lacquer thinner
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild Do you tape off the image somehow before using the lacquer thinner or are you just very careful? I didn’t see a super thick border on your image
Alright I'm etching some glass for my brother in law and I found that I have like flaking. So I scrape the coat of etching off and get an alright image but I lose all detail. I guess my ? Is am I supposed to scrape off the etched part?
That flaking means you’re putting too much product on the glass. Just enough to coat it.
@@BuildDadBuild thank you for getting back with me on the issue I really appreciate it.
Dude, game changer. Thank you!
Happy to help!
Cheers!
What rotary tool are you using
.
This one:
www.xtool.com/collections/accessory/products/rotary-attachment-risers-8-packs-for-d1
Cheers
Do you just wash the excess paint off with water? Acetone?
I use lacquer thinner.
Good Job ! You Rock! thanx for sharing
When using the rotary to engrave have you had any issues with the image engraving backwards.
Only when I’ve had the rotary on the bed backwards
@@BuildDadBuild I didn't realize I had rotary tool backwards, Thank you Keep up the great videos.
@@bradirvin3932 I did the same thing the first time I used it. 👍🏻👍🏻
What did you use to strip compound
Lacquer thinner
Hey where do I find big rolls of masking tape brotha
I just order them on Amazon:
amzn.to/3AVcdx6
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild keep on keeping on bud,cheers brotha
Like your vidz
I have the xTool d1 also but when I engrave glass on those settings with cold galv or Cermark I always get a burnt layer and spots of discoloration,any pointers?
That sounds like you're spraying too much product on the glass.
Heyyyyy!!! Thanks for doing a pint glass!
Anytime, brother.
Cheers
Just curious, how slow is necessary to get "frosted" look with cgc? Mine are mostly greyish.... I have a d1 pro 20w
Not sure. I haven’t run any with the 20w
@@BuildDadBuild you said to use "stainless" settings, I believe you were using laserbox at the time, xcs has 3 different stainless settings, I can translate to 20w if I can ever figure out where to start..
Would love to see this compound work with your Fiber Laser....
Don't need it.
@@BuildDadBuild would you care to mansplain that comment? lol I have a 30W Raycus and have not found a way of Engraving on Glass...
@@guindonmike You can't engrave on glass with a fiber as far as I know.
@@BuildDadBuild Brilliance Laser Ink, Cermark, there's a few, but never tried the compound you were using, I made the remark that I would love to see if the compound stuff worked with the Fiber like the other sprays do...
@@guindonmike Then you already know more than me! LOL I just use my CO2 for glass...no spray needed.
Impressive video! Loving your channel!!🥰
Thank you!
Cheers
Have you used the tempura paint method?
I have not. But I do have tempura paint sitting in a box in the garage...LOL
Try it pleassse
@@jamesc2212 coming soon brother…coming soon
I use that spray can but doesn't give me that frosting etching. It gives me that black etching
You’re using too much.
I would love to see you use ONLY Palmolive dish soap, no spray cans. Thanks daddy
You said 100% but what's the power of your laser? Many thanks
That one is 10W
Awesome video!! Thanks Nick!!
Thanks, Justin!
Cheers
How long did it take?
20 minutes?
Cheers
We've been using the rastolium cold galvanizing spray paint, but aint, but our glasses keep coming out with the image black Rather than frosted white. How do I combat that?
Thanks
That’s either too much product or you are running too hot.
@@BuildDadBuild Will give that a try! Much appreciated.
Is it possible to etch glass without painting it first?
Not with a diode laser. You need something for the beam to focus on. Diode lasers can't "see clear"
I can't get my glass to stay still on the rollers, it always moves and my images are slanted... any tips?
Plenty!
ruclips.net/video/Vjlu84bEEVo/видео.html
Can this be used to engrave on polymers and metals and how deeply will it engrave on metals?
It will not etch metal. You need a fiber laser or extremely powerful CO2.
You can mark some metals using a transfer agent.
Cheers
Just ordered mine!!
Noice!
Can you engrave on glass like this with the ortur?
Sure can.
what wattage?
@@jeremymoore4905 that laser is 10w. You could probably do it with the 5watt, you’ll need to tune your settings.