Very good video. What I get the best results with is using black chalkboard paint and using a crosshatch, it takes a bit longer but it's well worth it.
Dear Sir. Thank you for offering 7 day laser engraving lessons. I've been doing Laser engraving as a hobby using my Neje Laser Engraver for several years and is very interested to learn more from you after seeing your all your RUclips presentations. Very kind of you. Thank you
As far as I know, Oramask consists of PVC, which is an extremely dangerous material to be laser cut or engraved because it produces chlorine gas which can be harmful if inhaled and can also corrode your laser machine and damage it. So, it is not a good idea to use Oramask for glass engraving or any other laser project.
Watched your video about etching ceramic tiles today. I tried it. White, inch tile. White Satin Rustoleum spray paint painted both ways, north south east west. Let paint dry to late this afternoon. Did several tiles but didn’t bother with a test grid. Just figured I’d do each tile at different settings. The last tile, power was 100 percent and speed was 20in. All it did was just burn the paint away. Didn’t touch the tile. The laser is an Atezr P20. It’s new and I’ve only been at it a week now.
Hi, the settings you used are way too high. I use something around 160 inches/min (~ 4000 mm/min) at 60% power on my 20W xTool. Please run a power test grid to avoid wasting material and time. I also have a video on making the test grid if you want to learn that.
@@MellowpineLasers Thanks, I will try a test grid. Don’t expect it to work though. I tried different settings and none worked. I would have thought full power with slow speed would etch the ceramic but only removed the paint. It took three passes to cut through .20” plywood 100 power and 7 speed.
I had a similar experience with a brand new laser it turned out that the power was being limited in the console settings not the setting that we all make changes with where we make speed and power changes. I do not recall what line I had to change but that fixed my problem! 😁🛫 To look at the settings in the console type $$ and return this will display the lines with the settings.
Great video. Would this also allow the glass to be lit from the edge (wave guiding through the glass) with a LED array to emphasise the image? Thanks Alan
Yes, placing a black cardstock behind the glass also works. I have discussed that method in my "How to laser engrave glass" video. However, I've observed that it works well for images without extensive shading. For images with substantial shading, painting the glass is the better choice.
You can actually engrave on glass without a coating, it's a process you need something black under the glass they won't ignite! It melt! Power and speed are very finicky from machine to machine I have done it and broke a lot of glass , um still trying to get the settings perfect. I'm using a Roly LaserMATIC 20w with it set to 10w . The way in this video is definitely better for beginners.
Yes, there would be fumes. We use acrylic paint as transfer medium and when the laser hits the surface the paint is vaporized and it would have fumes, but as long as you do it in a well ventilated room or smoke purifier you are good.
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Thank you for the education. Awesome job on the video's as well!
Our pleasure!
Another great video! Keep bringing the knowledge.
Thank you.... These days I wait for your comment after posting the video :D
What type file?
Very good video. What I get the best results with is using black chalkboard paint and using a crosshatch, it takes a bit longer but it's well worth it.
Do you use the same methods for mirrors, without the paint?
Yes, you can use the same method for mirror but the thickness of the coating can be an issue some times.
Dear Sir. Thank you for offering 7 day laser engraving lessons. I've been doing Laser engraving as a hobby using my Neje Laser Engraver for several years and is very interested to learn more from you after seeing your all your RUclips presentations. Very kind of you. Thank you
Thank you for your kind words.
Amazing video, thank you. I'm still trying to figure my laser out, It's a Neje Master 2 Max 30W so these videos help.
Glad its helpful
Outstanding video
Thank you so much 😀
What do you think about using Oramask for glass engravings
As far as I know, Oramask consists of PVC, which is an extremely dangerous material to be laser cut or engraved because it produces chlorine gas which can be harmful if inhaled and can also corrode your laser machine and damage it. So, it is not a good idea to use Oramask for glass engraving or any other laser project.
Wonderful videos, mate. Also this one is less echoing compared to the previous video I watched.😜
Lol yeah, upgraded my audio recording setup 😁
Watched your video about etching ceramic tiles today.
I tried it. White, inch tile. White Satin Rustoleum spray paint painted both ways, north south east west.
Let paint dry to late this afternoon. Did several tiles but didn’t bother with a test grid. Just figured I’d do each tile at different settings.
The last tile, power was 100 percent and speed was 20in.
All it did was just burn the paint away. Didn’t touch the tile.
The laser is an Atezr P20.
It’s new and I’ve only been at it a week now.
Hi, the settings you used are way too high. I use something around 160 inches/min (~ 4000 mm/min) at 60% power on my 20W xTool. Please run a power test grid to avoid wasting material and time. I also have a video on making the test grid if you want to learn that.
@@MellowpineLasers
Thanks, I will try a test grid.
Don’t expect it to work though. I tried different settings and none worked.
I would have thought full power with slow speed would etch the ceramic but only removed the paint.
It took three passes to cut through .20” plywood 100 power and 7 speed.
I had a similar experience with a brand new laser it turned out that the power was being limited in the console settings not the setting that we all make changes with where we make speed and power changes.
I do not recall what line I had to change but that fixed my problem! 😁🛫
To look at the settings in the console type $$ and return this will display the lines with the settings.
@@TheFalconJetDriver
Thanks for the tip, I will check that out.
Making a test pattern right now.
@@TheFalconJetDriver
I don’t know where on the screen to type $$ in light burn.
Great video. Would this also allow the glass to be lit from the edge (wave guiding through the glass) with a LED array to emphasise the image? Thanks Alan
Hi Alan, you can do that, but how it would turn out depends on the image.
What about black card stock behind the glass?
Yes, placing a black cardstock behind the glass also works. I have discussed that method in my "How to laser engrave glass" video.
However, I've observed that it works well for images without extensive shading. For images with substantial shading, painting the glass is the better choice.
You can also just paint the glass white, then black on top, then laser it :)
Wow no1
Lol, thank you.
You can actually engrave on glass without a coating, it's a process you need something black under the glass they won't ignite! It melt! Power and speed are very finicky from machine to machine I have done it and broke a lot of glass , um still trying to get the settings perfect. I'm using a Roly LaserMATIC 20w with it set to 10w . The way in this video is definitely better for beginners.
Are there any fumes?
Yes, there would be fumes. We use acrylic paint as transfer medium and when the laser hits the surface the paint is vaporized and it would have fumes, but as long as you do it in a well ventilated room or smoke purifier you are good.