Hi Raz. Love your content, and I admire your dogged perseverance regards everything you do. I was thinking the "hops" may possibly be due to an uneven surface of the bitumen. Could pass a laser over it to check. I have a couple of charge posts at the back of my bench. It's a great idea for making things easy, just don't sit your car on the posts....💥
Love that you’re praising the community and learning from it!! This is what the hobby is all about!! Keep them speeds up and wheels down!😜😁🤙🏻👍🏻 good shit Raz!!!
Speedrunning really is a pain in the arse with all the crashes and broken parts. In addition to all the Perfect Pass parts you build, how about a new line of accessories called "Perfect Crash"? Perhaps an airbag that inflates based on gyro feedback to protect the car once it gets launched into the air...?
I wonder if the drag bar being on the ground is causing the hop. I'd imagine the car compresses when you smash the throttle, driving the drag bar into the ground and potentially causing a rocking back and forth between the car and drag bar. 🤔
Epic video Raz, I think your wheelie bar needs to come up and be matched to your suspension travel. When the car squats the wheelie bar hits the ground taking pressure off the rear tyres limiting traction. Lift it up a little and you might see the skipping minimise and have a bit more traction.
Question the faster you go do you still prefer a fast steering servo? To me I would think a slower one wouldnt be so twitchy at high speed but it seems everyone still runs a fast servo. Wheelie bar shouldn't drag its there to keep you from flipping over. That said you are all wheel drive so its a balance to keep the front end down as well so you have traction. Most all wheel drive cars will have 60 percent or more to the back tires maybe via slipper clutch or something you can spread more power to the back so the front end coming up doesnt cause tire spin. I think you should look into making your own brand of speed rated tires there is obviously a market for it .
@@kylenabozny6260 You know, people like you is the reason why the RC hobby is slowly fading away. So, in your "Professional" opinion, how about instead of criticizing, give your input on what Raz should try.
Hi 👋, I am a old dude that used to race radio controlled hydros. I’ve done electric cars as well and buggies and I’ve written a motorbike a Harley Davison for best part of 30 years., and because I’ve been out on the road itself, I believe your find that your car park is got small humps in the tarmac, probably not noticeable to your eyes, but I bet if you laid something very long and straight across the area, your noticed those dips in the tarmac, when I have been riding on the road, you can see where sometimes lorries have bounced on lamps similar to what you’ve got, and these are funny tire marks, and this is the reason why you’ve got traction, no traction traction and no traction, Good luck , Phil from the moulin France,
I would think you would heat the tires up a little. Like a burnout. In real drags that's how they get the tires to stuck. But are you using a rubber compounded tire that can take heat. It looks like your using a sponge mounted tire. Just an observation....
I know that the wheelie bars on real drag cars are off the ground a little bit so the weight transfer makes the rear suspension load up for weight transfer
drag stuff: blow the surface off. when it spins at half track u can see the dust cloud if u want to move the car over, only do it by tires. Keep the middle of the car over one of the good tire tracks. USE THE DATA LOGS!!! If u look at motor rpm and clear the logs after every run u will know where it spins
I love all the tips people give to setups. It’s interesting to learn from others and adopt different setups. One of the best tips a person gave me was play with your setup and do one thing at a time so you know what characteristics have changed for either improvement or failure. It’s a hobby. Take your time and play with your cars.
Raz. When you put the preparation on the road push the car through if but lift the car up to bring it back rather than pulling it back, this should cover more of the tyre in the preparation. Or you could try it in your workshop using just a wheel and some wood? 🤔👍
You have a couple of things you should do. Raise your wheelie bar according to your rear suspension travel. Your rear springs should allow for some travel. I know you think your top in needs to be turned up but it’s actually too high so turn the last number down. Turn the torque down and gradually go up as you get faster. The key is to keep traction. When you spin it uses more power so you think it’s going faster but it’s not. So turn the power down.
@@dadon197922 you use the 2nd plug that’s on the esc and turn your aux wire to torque setting in your esc and then you can adjust it with your remote. It makes a really big difference when using it.
The area of the video where you were talking about brake, traction, and brake, traction: this is called wheel hop. The way to fix this will adjusting your suspension. Thicker fluid, stiffening or loosening shocks, etc.
Awesome video as always very informative I wish my infraction hed some of those qualities 😎😎😎 Thanks mr raz מאוד מעריך את כל הערך שאתה חולק שבוע טוב מבורך ומלא בהצלחות קטנות
Hey, raz real drag racers put chalk on the wheel of the wheelbar. It will leave marks on the road where it touched. That might help the prep is supposed to burn out on a test run. You don't really want too much liquid on the road or the tires. Do a burn out first with the prep. Then put your car on the starting line. And go for it.
Are the tires suitable for drag ? , there really low profile and maybe the compound is to hard.. there's no give in them to hold traction, maybe that's one reason your getting traction then no traction.
GNSS is playing with you! I find (and many others) they are very inconsistent when running sub 2s. I spent months chasing my tail till I realized this.
I've been using those body mounts for about a year, they do take a little while to set up (use thread locker or get locknuts) and they require 3/4 inch holes in the body, but they are GAME CHANGERS!! I'm never going back to body clips!
So for 1:1 cars with midgrade power you can dissolve pine rosin in alcohol apply to the surface and dry( air over time or fire) or just apply the rosin to the ground and burn it makes a pretty good traction compound for less then vht
I have seen videos of people cleaning their wheels( remove prep) every 2 to 3 test runs, because of the junk the prep-wheels pick up. In Florida, it's a 50/50 on arrma 4x4 and 2WD drag cars. No-prep 2WD drag racing, the wheelie bar is just for the launch, on arrma 4x4 not to sure on that one.
Put ur wheel on top of the wheelie bar. U want a You want a quarter of distance from the wheelie bar wheel & the ground.. And for your prep you wanna roll it until you see the webs Forming up & on ur 3 stage speed in ur Remote Bottom- 90 Middle- 50 Bottom- 45 End point-115 to 120 Acceleration 35 to 40 I don't know ur gearing that ur running. But I'm running the same 1721 in my limitless
You need a little more prep on the ground, most use a table or prep board! Wheelie bar needs to be a little off the ground. Run in the same groove, if you’re going to run in a new spot you need to prep the tires/ground again…
Hey Roz love your videos where I found that work best for drag is locking the front diff scorched RC Locker and 2mil in the rear what you want to do is get the front tires to pull and not let the rear tires push as the motor creates torque you need to adjust suspension for that so it actually keeps the two front pulling tires on the ground keep in mind you're trying to pull not push you will find you don't even need that wheelie bar it will just shit and get try and keep the car as light as possible add anything that is not completely necessary!! Power-to-weight ratio also you don't need such big of a milliamp battery you're going for a two-second burst you don't need a lot of gas in the tank just a high discharge hope this helps good luck
I may be wrong but it looks like the spots that don't have the wheel mark's is where it's getting traction. And the spots that u can see wheel mark's is where the car is spinning and loosing traction
So glad u are getting into drag.. ive been dabbing alil into it... ive been working more so i cant get to the cars as much but this is refreshing to see some help! Ive gotten to 1.8 with now wheelie bar but it was definitely a time get there.. salute to u Mr Raz!
I'm not an RC drag racer but I do drag race my real cars. My first thought into getting better times out of your RC is why not use real drag car winning formulas? Like wider tires, adjusting the suspension to let the car weight roll to the rear of the car, maybe developing real drag tires that squish / krinkle zones to help the car get traction
You kill Me raz love it love it such a great example to us all of what it takes to be great good job good for you best of luck and health and happiness to you my friend
Out here in the states it's single motor rear placement for the engines and they use the fat drag tires rear wheel drive only then u also have the run what u bring classes
With the high speed runs, the crashing usually occurs when the front lifts up. Could you have some kind of gyro that would immediately elevate a front mounted downforce spoiler to correct the lift? Another question is, why can’t you just have wheelie bars on high-speed run? (ie. not just for drag racing).
If you ask 100 drag races, you will get 100 different answers but you got a lot of things right and it’s great to see you trying something different. I’m sure you’re gonna love the 132 foot mark.💯✌️
Wheelie bar might be better with some kind of spring. But I think you're getting the traction lost when the wheelie bar and front wheels basically lift the rear wheels off the ground.
My guess is you want the Willie bar little bit above the ground because you want your rear suspension to be able to work. Your suspension should be able to squat when you take off and then progressively grow throughout the run. If you're bar is touching the ground already it's stopping your rear of your car from squatting giving you aggressive acceleration off the line. All that torque is pulling that rear suspension down and all you're telling it is you can't go any farther down, so okay it's going to start spending because there's no more room to go down.
great video as always. I work on roads, the reason for your hop skipping could be down to the road surface. it may look perfect but it probably isn't. you should try another road or different area to try eliminate this, it may not be down to the car. hope this helps
Hey raz whats up the paint job on that car is amazing gorgeous beautiful, actually that paint scheme would look great on my real car. You work is so clean very well Explained and fun to here all the stats on the car just fantastic work and video crystal clean. Your the best my brother. Tu da your friendly neighborhood Doorman william from NYC forgettaboutit 👊 ✌️ I love you guys so cool 🎉🙏⚘️👏👏👏😚
Great video as always!! Something very simple I see alot of dust flying just after launch. One thought after watching your launches, do you use your blower to blow the dust off the entire length of the run area's pavement before you start your runs? Once the prep dissipates dust, dirt will help to lose traction very fast.
Wheelie bar is to tight and you don't have enough movement in the front suspension. No dragcar/bike has the wheelie bar touching the ground it's there to stop it from continuing not prevent the front from lifting at all
People I see using prep only roll the car one way… forward. It’s a two handed operation 1. Roll car forward through the prep 2. Pick car up and place at the beginning of the prep 3. Repeat steps 1 & 2.
Hello I live in California and I have two problems I can’t seem to get gone bananas speedrun tires anywhere and also I can get any onyx batteries out here?? Does anyone know why and what I can do? Please it we be a big help. Btw love all your vids Raz!!!
Not this field but im sure ideas can be pinched and applied dynamic soaring world record now stands at 500 mph + do you believe that a rc glider goes over 500 mph with no motor
really nice body and cool see you doing drag cars. i would try having the wheelie bar to sit mm's above the ground, this allows the suspension to travel and that lets the weight transfer which aids in grip. your car is pulling left as well , go over the suspension, could be the diff lockup is too loose op tight . cant wait to see how you do next video
if thats how your using prep you not using enough you can roll it on the ground big E DOES IT so dont listen to the people that say you cant ...Only thing is your not using enough the wheels should be fully covered and even .. i say glazed donut and on big e prep you should see webs . lay it down heavier and roll it 3 to 5 times
Question, is it possible to run multiple kv motors in 1 car to overcome limitations in gearing and rpm. Obviously a programme would be needed to switch over one esc to another at the correct time so the motor not used is free wheeling. Like maybe using a high kv with small pinion to get to 100mph then having it switch to a lower kv with an massive pinion to push for top speed. Essentially using one motor to push past the limitation point of big gears. Kind of act like a gearbox of sorts 1st gear/motor to get you off the line , 2nd gear/Motor for taller gearing. Not make the motors work so hard.
I thought about trying this exact same thing a few months a go . The programing can be done with a Castle esc. Problem for me is its a very expensive test.
Simple solution. One way bearing. One KV for front diff and one KV rear. Could link them together somehow and once lower KV tops out it will free spin. I thought about this myself. I actually bought some and haven’t got around to trying it. Would be good to keep heat down too.
Even easier to do with the throttle curve in your castle link software. . U can cut one motor at a certain throttle put . And also have one motor free spin until a certain throttle point and then come in .
Great video the wheelie bar has to be a little of the ground so the weight can transfer through the suspension it will help with the bouncing in the end of ur run
You should look into battery quick disconnects for your charger. Basically a traxxas connector for a car battery. Rated around 175 amp. More efficient power and easier to use
3:37 have you ever considered selling a perfect pass complete roller chassis like this? I think there will be many people, including myself very interested in a full roller chassis.
Everything You Need Is Here..
www.perfectpassrc.com/
I'd raise that wheelie bar a touch, it's probably squatting into it an lifting the rear tyres/unloading the rear suspension a touch slowing you down.
Hi Raz. Love your content, and I admire your dogged perseverance regards everything you do. I was thinking the "hops" may possibly be due to an uneven surface of the bitumen. Could pass a laser over it to check. I have a couple of charge posts at the back of my bench. It's a great idea for making things easy, just don't sit your car on the posts....💥
Idk why the title of the video reminded me of "2 girls 1 cup" but now I can't get it out of my head
Definitely on purpose
Great build as always Raz. I wanna see you put 4 rubber drag slicks on it with a buggy body or something
Love that you’re praising the community and learning from it!! This is what the hobby is all about!! Keep them speeds up and wheels down!😜😁🤙🏻👍🏻 good shit Raz!!!
it this point arrma should look into partnering with u and HR and scorched n everyone else to do a limited run of perfect pass rollers
Speedrunning really is a pain in the arse with all the crashes and broken parts. In addition to all the Perfect Pass parts you build, how about a new line of accessories called "Perfect Crash"? Perhaps an airbag that inflates based on gyro feedback to protect the car once it gets launched into the air...?
I wonder if the drag bar being on the ground is causing the hop. I'd imagine the car compresses when you smash the throttle, driving the drag bar into the ground and potentially causing a rocking back and forth between the car and drag bar. 🤔
Epic video Raz, I think your wheelie bar needs to come up and be matched to your suspension travel. When the car squats the wheelie bar hits the ground taking pressure off the rear tyres limiting traction. Lift it up a little and you might see the skipping minimise and have a bit more traction.
Question the faster you go do you still prefer a fast steering servo? To me I would think a slower one wouldnt be so twitchy at high speed but it seems everyone still runs a fast servo. Wheelie bar shouldn't drag its there to keep you from flipping over. That said you are all wheel drive so its a balance to keep the front end down as well so you have traction. Most all wheel drive cars will have 60 percent or more to the back tires maybe via slipper clutch or something you can spread more power to the back so the front end coming up doesnt cause tire spin. I think you should look into making your own brand of speed rated tires there is obviously a market for it .
The wheelie bar needs to sit at least a quarter inch off the ground
You mean, weeeeeeee-lee bar
You have definitely put that statement out. Great to hear from someone that doesn’t know the application but thanks 👍. Let the pros be be pros
@@kylenabozny6260 weeeeeeeeeee!
@@kylenabozny6260 You know, people like you is the reason why the RC hobby is slowly fading away. So, in your "Professional" opinion, how about instead of criticizing, give your input on what Raz should try.
Do a torque limit. Use a 3s battery to calibrate the esc /motor test. Will help
Fantastic man!👍
Hi 👋, I am a old dude that used to race radio controlled hydros. I’ve done electric cars as well and buggies and I’ve written a motorbike a Harley Davison for best part of 30 years., and because I’ve been out on the road itself, I believe your find that your car park is got small humps in the tarmac, probably not noticeable to your eyes, but I bet if you laid something very long and straight across the area, your noticed those dips in the tarmac, when I have been riding on the road, you can see where sometimes lorries have bounced on lamps similar to what you’ve got, and these are funny tire marks, and this is the reason why you’ve got traction, no traction traction and no traction,
Good luck , Phil from the moulin France,
Place a quarter under your wheelie bar wheel for spacingl, Raz. You don't want it on the ground at the beginning of your launch🏎💨💨💨💨
Outstanding video Raz!! Thank you for the video man!! In time you will be one of the top Drag RC out there!
I would think you would heat the tires up a little. Like a burnout. In real drags that's how they get the tires to stuck. But are you using a rubber compounded tire that can take heat. It looks like your using a sponge mounted tire. Just an observation....
You should be able to slide a quarter under the wheelie bar champ 🏎️🔥🔥🔥🔥
I know that the wheelie bars on real drag cars are off the ground a little bit so the weight transfer makes the rear suspension load up for weight transfer
drag stuff:
blow the surface off. when it spins at half track u can see the dust cloud
if u want to move the car over, only do it by tires. Keep the middle of the car over one of the good tire tracks.
USE THE DATA LOGS!!! If u look at motor rpm and clear the logs after every run u will know where it spins
I love all the tips people give to setups. It’s interesting to learn from others and adopt different setups. One of the best tips a person gave me was play with your setup and do one thing at a time so you know what characteristics have changed for either improvement or failure. It’s a hobby. Take your time and play with your cars.
Raz.
When you put the preparation on the road push the car through if but lift the car up to bring it back rather than pulling it back, this should cover more of the tyre in the preparation.
Or you could try it in your workshop using just a wheel and some wood? 🤔👍
here in the states Idon't think they offer a fourwheel drive class
Springs not transferring slow energy, and power load progress to bar. But I have no idea just my 2 cents
You have a couple of things you should do. Raise your wheelie bar according to your rear suspension travel. Your rear springs should allow for some travel. I know you think your top in needs to be turned up but it’s actually too high so turn the last number down. Turn the torque down and gradually go up as you get faster. The key is to keep traction. When you spin it uses more power so you think it’s going faster but it’s not. So turn the power down.
I’m confused people tell me the top number is your top end and the bottom one is your launch …how do you turn your torque down
@@dadon197922 you use the 2nd plug that’s on the esc and turn your aux wire to torque setting in your esc and then you can adjust it with your remote. It makes a really big difference when using it.
Love the paint job on the drag car. Awesome work. 👍
The area of the video where you were talking about brake, traction, and brake, traction: this is called wheel hop. The way to fix this will adjusting your suspension. Thicker fluid, stiffening or loosening shocks, etc.
Do you have a link for the body mount setup you’re using on that beautiful car?
Finally a drag racing video!!! Always wanted to see you do one. Absolutely enjoyed watching it!!
Love it ❤
What is your total gear ratio?
Do you use the v2 diffs with 1:2,8 or the v1 diffs with 1:3,3?
😇
At last 💥💥💥 you took my advice on buddy clips. Works great. 🤓
Awesome video as always very informative
I wish my infraction hed some of those qualities 😎😎😎
Thanks mr raz
מאוד מעריך את כל הערך שאתה חולק
שבוע טוב מבורך ומלא בהצלחות קטנות
Hey, raz real drag racers put chalk on the wheel of the wheelbar. It will leave marks on the road where it touched. That might help the prep is supposed to burn out on a test run. You don't really want too much liquid on the road or the tires. Do a burn out first with the prep. Then put your car on the starting line. And go for it.
Are the tires suitable for drag ? , there really low profile and maybe the compound is to hard.. there's no give in them to hold traction, maybe that's one reason your getting traction then no traction.
GNSS is playing with you!
I find (and many others) they are very inconsistent when running sub 2s. I spent months chasing my tail till I realized this.
I've been using those body mounts for about a year, they do take a little while to set up (use thread locker or get locknuts) and they require 3/4 inch holes in the body, but they are GAME CHANGERS!! I'm never going back to body clips!
So for 1:1 cars with midgrade power you can dissolve pine rosin in alcohol apply to the surface and dry( air over time or fire) or just apply the rosin to the ground and burn it makes a pretty good traction compound for less then vht
There is no perfect surface and that goo is picking up "stuff" from the pavement. It either throws it off or it skips around.
I have seen videos of people cleaning their wheels( remove prep) every 2 to 3 test runs, because of the junk the prep-wheels pick up. In Florida, it's a 50/50 on arrma 4x4 and 2WD drag cars.
No-prep 2WD drag racing, the wheelie bar is just for the launch, on arrma 4x4 not to sure on that one.
Put ur wheel on top of the wheelie bar. U want a You want a quarter of distance from the wheelie bar wheel & the ground..
And for your prep you wanna roll it until you see the webs Forming up
& on ur 3 stage speed in ur Remote
Bottom- 90
Middle- 50
Bottom- 45
End point-115 to 120
Acceleration 35 to 40
I don't know ur gearing that ur running. But I'm running the same 1721 in my limitless
Thanks!
No problem 👍🏿
The top speed at 40..
So it will be...90, 50 ,40
You want to call to Settle down before the end of the track that's why the top is a lower numbe
Hi, do you get your XLX2 ESC to cut off with the 1721 2400kv on launch with tire sauce prep
@@miguelmingau7405 No, what's ur gearing
You need a little more prep on the ground, most use a table or prep board! Wheelie bar needs to be a little off the ground. Run in the same groove, if you’re going to run in a new spot you need to prep the tires/ground again…
Hey Roz love your videos where I found that work best for drag is locking the front diff scorched RC Locker and 2mil in the rear what you want to do is get the front tires to pull and not let the rear tires push as the motor creates torque you need to adjust suspension for that so it actually keeps the two front pulling tires on the ground keep in mind you're trying to pull not push you will find you don't even need that wheelie bar it will just shit and get try and keep the car as light as possible add anything that is not completely necessary!! Power-to-weight ratio also you don't need such big of a milliamp battery you're going for a two-second burst you don't need a lot of gas in the tank just a high discharge hope this helps good luck
😂 you said “for me, for now, that works “, I heard “I am not going to change it”
That's paintwork is just sick , wow. Raz where can I get those body fixings please
I may be wrong but it looks like the spots that don't have the wheel mark's is where it's getting traction. And the spots that u can see wheel mark's is where the car is spinning and loosing traction
Epic drag build , man that prep is well sticky, not tried prep yet not sure I'm going to like the sticky mess lol
Raising the bar as always! 😂👍👍Awesome stuff buddy!
So glad u are getting into drag.. ive been dabbing alil into it... ive been working more so i cant get to the cars as much but this is refreshing to see some help! Ive gotten to 1.8 with now wheelie bar but it was definitely a time get there.. salute to u Mr Raz!
I'm not an RC drag racer but I do drag race my real cars. My first thought into getting better times out of your RC is why not use real drag car winning formulas? Like wider tires, adjusting the suspension to let the car weight roll to the rear of the car, maybe developing real drag tires that squish / krinkle zones to help the car get traction
You guys are way beyond my understanding.I wish I did .absolutely love your builds and expertise in the hobby .😊
You kill Me raz love it love it such a great example to us all of what it takes to be great good job good for you best of luck and health and happiness to you my friend
Nice work as always Raz. I can see those drag runs being a lot of effort for tiny (relatively) results. Fun though.
Out here in the states it's single motor rear placement for the engines and they use the fat drag tires rear wheel drive only then u also have the run what u bring classes
With the high speed runs, the crashing usually occurs when the front lifts up. Could you have some kind of gyro that would immediately elevate a front mounted downforce spoiler to correct the lift? Another question is, why can’t you just have wheelie bars on high-speed run? (ie. not just for drag racing).
If you ask 100 drag races, you will get 100 different answers but you got a lot of things right and it’s great to see you trying something different. I’m sure you’re gonna love the 132 foot mark.💯✌️
If the wheelbar is too low it will Ride on the wheelibar and you will lose traction. The wheelbarrow should not be touching the ground all the time
Hey raz who makes the body mounts where can I buy them?
When will the pp chassis be available? Hasn’t been for sale since I saw your video.
Try skeletonizing the wheelie bar. The flat plate will act as a lift wing, unloading the rear tire's.
Love the charging set up man looks good 👍
Wheelie bar might be better with some kind of spring. But I think you're getting the traction lost when the wheelie bar and front wheels basically lift the rear wheels off the ground.
My guess is you want the Willie bar little bit above the ground because you want your rear suspension to be able to work. Your suspension should be able to squat when you take off and then progressively grow throughout the run. If you're bar is touching the ground already it's stopping your rear of your car from squatting giving you aggressive acceleration off the line. All that torque is pulling that rear suspension down and all you're telling it is you can't go any farther down, so okay it's going to start spending because there's no more room to go down.
Im watching this in a dark soundproof room, Drag is now illegal in Florida😅
Haha!!!!
great video as always. I work on roads, the reason for your hop skipping could be down to the road surface. it may look perfect but it probably isn't. you should try another road or different area to try eliminate this, it may not be down to the car. hope this helps
This was awesome to see you guys actually experimenting instead of just watching a video someone else created. beautiful car raz
I see a Losi 5ive T 😮😳😳
You gonna redo the Heartbreak Build?? 😎👍
On 1/7 cars we use a gyro down here in Texas
Hey raz whats up the paint job on that car is amazing gorgeous beautiful, actually that paint scheme would look great on my real car. You work is so clean very well
Explained and fun to here all the stats on the car just fantastic work and video crystal clean. Your the best my brother. Tu da your friendly neighborhood Doorman william from NYC forgettaboutit 👊 ✌️ I love you guys so cool
🎉🙏⚘️👏👏👏😚
That paintwork is amazing, fun video
Great video as always!! Something very simple I see alot of dust flying just after launch. One thought after watching your launches, do you use your blower to blow the dust off the entire length of the run area's pavement before you start your runs? Once the prep dissipates dust, dirt will help to lose traction very fast.
You need to add prep twice. Try polo prep.
"2 guys, 1 car". Some straight up nerd porn right there!!!
Wheelie bar is to tight and you don't have enough movement in the front suspension. No dragcar/bike has the wheelie bar touching the ground it's there to stop it from continuing not prevent the front from lifting at all
Does a drag car not have reer wheel drive? Having 4 wheel drive does make sense to keep front also stick so the ground
That's why he needs more front suspension travel, you want it to shift a little not completely stop it
אהבתי מאוד את עמדת הטעינה, אחלה רעיון רז, איך הספק? לא מתחמם ב-60 אמפר?
תודה, בבית עד 40 אמפר.
My all batteries dropped to 26 even sometimes 25v unfortunately. And I can’t get a good speed
People I see using prep only roll the car one way… forward. It’s a two handed operation
1. Roll car forward through the prep
2. Pick car up and place at the beginning of the prep
3. Repeat steps 1 & 2.
Hello I live in California and I have two problems I can’t seem to get gone bananas speedrun tires anywhere and also I can get any onyx batteries out here?? Does anyone know why and what I can do? Please it we be a big help. Btw love all your vids Raz!!!
Like the push button body mounts I bought a bunch of them
That’s a great charging setup
Great video, absolutely loved seeing y'all tuning your remote on site its the little details that make learning new things so fun!
Not this field but im sure ideas can be pinched and applied dynamic soaring world record now stands at 500 mph + do you believe that a rc glider goes over 500 mph with no motor
All the cars Razzii look absolutely stunning Carbon carbon stunning !!! Inspire to be the same !!! ❤
Nooo not 2 guys 1 car 😢😢😢😢😢😭😭
really nice body and cool see you doing drag cars. i would try having the wheelie bar to sit mm's above the ground, this allows the suspension to travel and that lets the weight transfer which aids in grip. your car is pulling left as well , go over the suspension, could be the diff lockup is too loose op tight . cant wait to see how you do next video
WOWWWWWWW!!! I Love it, your charging set up that is.
if thats how your using prep you not using enough you can roll it on the ground big E DOES IT so dont listen to the people that say you cant ...Only thing is your not using enough the wheels should be fully covered and even .. i say glazed donut and on big e prep you should see webs . lay it down heavier and roll it 3 to 5 times
"And what not" - 😅
nice car 👍💪
Wheelie bar too low resulting in slower times try giving it a 1/4 inch to a 1/2 inch from the ground
Question, is it possible to run multiple kv motors in 1 car to overcome limitations in gearing and rpm. Obviously a programme would be needed to switch over one esc to another at the correct time so the motor not used is free wheeling. Like maybe using a high kv with small pinion to get to 100mph then having it switch to a lower kv with an massive pinion to push for top speed. Essentially using one motor to push past the limitation point of big gears. Kind of act like a gearbox of sorts 1st gear/motor to get you off the line , 2nd gear/Motor for taller gearing. Not make the motors work so hard.
I thought about trying this exact same thing a few months a go . The programing can be done with a Castle esc. Problem for me is its a very expensive test.
Simple solution. One way bearing. One KV for front diff and one KV rear. Could link them together somehow and once lower KV tops out it will free spin. I thought about this myself. I actually bought some and haven’t got around to trying it. Would be good to keep heat down too.
@@danejones6425 yeah wouldn't be cheap.
Even easier to do with the throttle curve in your castle link software. . U can cut one motor at a certain throttle put . And also have one motor free spin until a certain throttle point and then come in .
Keep up the great content Raz! Absolutely love it along with Kev too
When it comes to applying prep to your tires, don't do it on the asphalt. Get you some cardboard and apply it on there.
Thanks!
Why?
@@RazShifrin The ground is rough. You want a smooth surface to apply your prep.
evenly
Great stuff as usual Raz 👌You’ll dial her in good luck bro 👍
Great video the wheelie bar has to be a little of the ground so the weight can transfer through the suspension it will help with the bouncing in the end of ur run
You should look into battery quick disconnects for your charger. Basically a traxxas connector for a car battery. Rated around 175 amp. More efficient power and easier to use
Maybe you should do a double weehlybar to make it not flip to a side? Like traxxas xmax
Don't do it. it'll make the car pull
If you tell the whitehouse (while bidens still there) that your going to do drag past a school they would probably sponsor you..😂
3:37 have you ever considered selling a perfect pass complete roller chassis like this? I think there will be many people, including myself very interested in a full roller chassis.
I'm thinking the wheelie bar will help stop flipping on your speed runs as well!!
You won't need the bat wings for drag races...
Lift the wheelie bar. It’s slowing you down.