Thank you for a informative video. You have confirmed it for me; I need to get out of the embroidery business. The puckering is too much for me and its not my fault.
Wow, great info as a well organized and succinct lecture. I had no idea there were so many contributors to puckering. A must see for new embroidery folks.
I am new to embroidery and I agree with understanding how a design is digitized to understand what a good and bad stitch looks like. I have been watching digitizing videos to understand what goes into a bad and good design and why things are done they way they are. I downloaded embrillance demo and watch the stitch out process of files I downloaded and bought off Etsy and its so noticable which one will be a good stitch and what would be bad. When I go to actually test them, I can see all the differences and mistakes
In 2006, I started pieceing and quilting. I bought ONE spool of Robison-Anton polyester embroidery thread. It didn’t seem to have the luster of rayon. Until I had an embroidery machine, most of my stash was rayon. My decorative stitching was rayon. That’s MUCH DIFFERENT than embroidery. It seems like polyester thread has come a long way. I seems I have fewer problems with puckering using rayon.
Thank you for all your wonderful videos and ideas. Why does nobody do any embroidery in cotton? It looks beautiful and emulates some of the antique embroideries. It is soft and has a slight sheen. It is easy to embroider. I design small embroideries from antique 19th century line designs and use only rayon to emulate silk (silk thread is hard to find and very expensive) and cotton. I dislike using polyester, both for my normal sewing as well as for the top embroidery. I use very fine polyester bobbin thread, adjust the tension and avoid stitches too close together, so there is no thread pull - the same as for a normal sewing machine. Unfortunately, cotton bobbin thread tends to break too often due to the speed of the machine. I would prefer that. Rayon bobbin thread is too slippery - it does not look good on small embroideries. Here is a hint I use for stiffening fabric: use hard-to-hold hairspray, let dry. Once dry, press the fabric on the opposite side you sprayed (to avoid the spray sticking to the iron). You can actually make the fabric stiff enough to use without extra stabilizer. I make small items, often on silk fabric, and removing all the fine tear-away stuff takes a long time in an intricate design, and I do not wish to wash the silk fabric. Once finished, I rub the fabric to remove the hairspray and soften the fabric.
Thanks Karin! I have done some designs in cotton when I wanted something less shiny. The color lines aren't as wide and depending on the design, I make density adjustments. I'll have to try that trick with the hair spray. I've only used it when stitching on faux fur to comb it away from the design area and hold it in place.
Although the video is a few years back, can you provide the current link for Anatomy of a Design Ebook. The link that is provided does not take me to that page. Thank you.
@@LindeeGVideos Thank you. Love your videos. Recently found your lessons during my quest to troubleshoot embroidery puckering. As you stated, there is no one answer to this on going issues. But, the breakdown or concepts of fabric, embroidery, and ways to prevent plucking is why I subscribed. Your explanation and demonstrating is a no nonsense. 😎
Thank you for this very informative / educational video. I've learned so much. Is the coupon still valid? I just noted this is a 2017 video date. Thank you, again, for sharing so much.
Some coupon codes have a very extended lifetime. Try adding the product to the cart, applying the coupon and see if it works. This cart is not very good about handling multple coupons so don't try to apply more than 1 coupon per checkout. Thanks for asking!
What was the formula for the homemade starch paste to paint on her fabric before she sew into it. 🤔🤔And with the painted( starched) fabric you still need a stabilizer to back the fabric? 🤗😀👍🏽Thx for making this😃😄 also does it matter what direction of grain pull on the fabric in relation to what direction you hoop your design in and what direction the embroidery design sits on?
What homemade starch paste are you referring to? I use straight-up liquid starch out of the container. (Niagara brand.) Yes, I still use a stabilizer. Often it lets me use less stabilizer or a water-soluble. Yes, the grain direction can make a difference. The best way is to hoop on grain, especially with running stitch outlines. On one design, I had outlines perfect when the grain was running vertically but slightly off when I hooped it "sideways." Depends on a variety of factors: how stable the fabric is in the hoop and how precise the design needs. Running stitch outlines around fills need a really precise stabilization.
@@lindeegoodall2426Sorry perhaps writing for me is not the best way for me to understand? haha 😃😄 I don't really understand 🤔🤔 when you say you use " less stabilizer", since don't you just use 1 layer of stabilizer? Do you mean you typically USE MORE THAN one layer and when you paint you fabric with liquid starch you use less layers? Or do you mean, instead of using a STIFFIER stabilizer you can now use something LESS stiff? Can you please explain? (sorry I'm confused) hahha lol I had a hard time following what you're saying about grain, hahah lol. 🤔.When you say you hooped it sideways, do you mean you hooped it on bias? ( sorry I'm not super knowledgable and I'm trying to understand EXACTLY what you're saying" it stitches out wonky? When you have a rectangular hoop, do you want the "straight grain" to be running parallel to the LONGER side of the rectangle or the shorter side of the rectangle ( does it matter? as long the threads are running parellel and perpendicular to the sides of the rectangle)? I'm trying to do red work embroidery & running stitch designs on light weight muslin. this to be exact on a Brother NS 1750 D www.joann.com/legacy-studio-premium-muslin-bleached-90in/10367290.html I pre washed to shrink it, and painted it with liquid starch, what do you recommend using as stabilizer?( I don't think my liquid starch is as thick as yours being that AFTER Ive painted it and let it dry, when I pull towards the selvage there is still STRETCH in the material it's not stiff as a board, it's still quite soft ) Is the liquid starch enough of do I need interfacing ALSO? If so what type of interfacing and stabilizer to do you recommend? I'm a beginnger sorry ☻☺if these are amateur questions. I've tried doing research on my own on lightweight muslin, however, with the variable of painting on liquid starch idk if the conventional advise for lightweight muslin would still apply Sorry to unload so many question... but thx for trying to clarify, have a great day☻☺
I really like your videos they are very informative, but your site for your book sucks. I have tried 6 times to get an account registered and it just won't work, so I guess I won't be buying your book
If you would email me through the Contact page on the website, I can help you. "It doesn't work" doesn't give me a lot of information about where the problem is. 33 accounts have been created today and I suspect 1/2 of those are spam accounts since they remain unconfirmed. The site uses standard popular off-the-shelf software for the shopping cart but it does require you to confirm your account to minimize spam accounts.
Thank you for a informative video. You have confirmed it for me; I need to get out of the embroidery business. The puckering is too much for me and its not my fault.
Wow, great info as a well organized and succinct lecture. I had no idea there were so many contributors to puckering. A must see for new embroidery folks.
Ditto..
Lindee thank you so much I was at my wits end trying to solve this problem.
I am new to embroidery and I agree with understanding how a design is digitized to understand what a good and bad stitch looks like. I have been watching digitizing videos to understand what goes into a bad and good design and why things are done they way they are. I downloaded embrillance demo and watch the stitch out process of files I downloaded and bought off Etsy and its so noticable which one will be a good stitch and what would be bad. When I go to actually test them, I can see all the differences and mistakes
This lady is smart love her
LOVE your videos, thanks so much for sharing and would still love to meet you someday in a class!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, love your teaching, it’s very helpful.
Thanks from a noob. This really helps. I am enjoying this new hobby.
In 2006, I started pieceing and quilting. I bought ONE spool of Robison-Anton polyester embroidery thread. It didn’t seem to have the luster of rayon. Until I had an embroidery machine, most of my stash was rayon. My decorative stitching was rayon. That’s MUCH DIFFERENT than embroidery. It seems like polyester thread has come a long way. I seems I have fewer problems with puckering using rayon.
I Love You, Lindee! You do an excellent job of explaining everything 💝
Good info on the 30 thread 🧵
The color intense pencils ✏️ is a great idea to correct that. 1./..2 bobbin threads that show up..
Thank you for all your wonderful videos and ideas.
Why does nobody do any embroidery in cotton? It looks beautiful and emulates some of the antique embroideries. It is soft and has a slight sheen. It is easy to embroider. I design small embroideries from antique 19th century line designs and use only rayon to emulate silk (silk thread is hard to find and very expensive) and cotton. I dislike using polyester, both for my normal sewing as well as for the top embroidery. I use very fine polyester bobbin thread, adjust the tension and avoid stitches too close together, so there is no thread pull - the same as for a normal sewing machine. Unfortunately, cotton bobbin thread tends to break too often due to the speed of the machine. I would prefer that. Rayon bobbin thread is too slippery - it does not look good on small embroideries.
Here is a hint I use for stiffening fabric: use hard-to-hold hairspray, let dry. Once dry, press the fabric on the opposite side you sprayed (to avoid the spray sticking to the iron). You can actually make the fabric stiff enough to use without extra stabilizer. I make small items, often on silk fabric, and removing all the fine tear-away stuff takes a long time in an intricate design, and I do not wish to wash the silk fabric. Once finished, I rub the fabric to remove the hairspray and soften the fabric.
Thanks Karin! I have done some designs in cotton when I wanted something less shiny. The color lines aren't as wide and depending on the design, I make density adjustments. I'll have to try that trick with the hair spray. I've only used it when stitching on faux fur to comb it away from the design area and hold it in place.
Excellent information. Thanks for sharing
Really enjoyed your information!
Very interesting. Thanks for all the information.
Do you pre wash everything even if you are doing production embroidery?
Although the video is a few years back, can you provide the current link for Anatomy of a Design Ebook. The link that is provided does not take me to that page. Thank you.
Thanks for letting me know. I've updated the link in the description. Use this: lindeegembroidery.com/product-category/designs
@@LindeeGVideos Thank you. Love your videos. Recently found your lessons during my quest to troubleshoot embroidery puckering. As you stated, there is no one answer to this on going issues. But, the breakdown or concepts of fabric, embroidery, and ways to prevent plucking is why I subscribed. Your explanation and demonstrating is a no nonsense. 😎
@@LouRao thanks so much!
Very helpful thanks
By "adjusting tension" do you mean thread or presser foot or both.
Here I'm talking about thread tensions - bobbin and needle.
Thank you for this very informative / educational video. I've learned so much. Is the coupon still valid? I just noted this is a 2017 video date. Thank you, again, for sharing so much.
Some coupon codes have a very extended lifetime. Try adding the product to the cart, applying the coupon and see if it works. This cart is not very good about handling multple coupons so don't try to apply more than 1 coupon per checkout. Thanks for asking!
What was the formula for the homemade starch paste to paint on her fabric before she sew into it. 🤔🤔And with the painted( starched) fabric you still need a stabilizer to back the fabric? 🤗😀👍🏽Thx for making this😃😄 also does it matter what direction of grain pull on the fabric in relation to what direction you hoop your design in and what direction the embroidery design sits on?
What homemade starch paste are you referring to? I use straight-up liquid starch out of the container. (Niagara brand.) Yes, I still use a stabilizer. Often it lets me use less stabilizer or a water-soluble. Yes, the grain direction can make a difference. The best way is to hoop on grain, especially with running stitch outlines. On one design, I had outlines perfect when the grain was running vertically but slightly off when I hooped it "sideways." Depends on a variety of factors: how stable the fabric is in the hoop and how precise the design needs. Running stitch outlines around fills need a really precise stabilization.
@@lindeegoodall2426Sorry perhaps writing for me is not the best way for me to understand? haha 😃😄 I don't really understand 🤔🤔
when you say you use " less stabilizer", since don't you just use 1 layer of stabilizer? Do you mean you typically USE MORE THAN one layer and when you paint you fabric with liquid starch you use less layers? Or do you mean, instead of using a STIFFIER stabilizer you can now use something LESS stiff? Can you please explain? (sorry I'm confused) hahha lol
I had a hard time following what you're saying about grain, hahah lol. 🤔.When you say you hooped it sideways, do you mean you hooped it on bias? ( sorry I'm not super knowledgable and I'm trying to understand EXACTLY what you're saying"
it stitches out wonky? When you have a rectangular hoop, do you want the "straight grain" to be running parallel to the LONGER side of the rectangle or the shorter side of the rectangle ( does it matter? as long the threads are running parellel and perpendicular to the sides of the rectangle)?
I'm trying to do red work embroidery & running stitch designs on light weight muslin.
this to be exact on a Brother NS 1750 D
www.joann.com/legacy-studio-premium-muslin-bleached-90in/10367290.html
I pre washed to shrink it, and painted it with liquid starch, what do you recommend using as stabilizer?( I don't think my liquid starch is as thick as yours being that AFTER Ive painted it and let it dry, when I pull towards the selvage there is still STRETCH in the material it's not stiff as a board, it's still quite soft )
Is the liquid starch enough of do I need interfacing ALSO? If so what type of interfacing and stabilizer to do you recommend?
I'm a beginnger sorry ☻☺if these are amateur questions. I've tried doing research on my own on lightweight muslin, however, with the variable of painting on liquid starch idk if the conventional advise for lightweight muslin would still apply Sorry to unload so many question... but thx for trying to clarify, have a great day☻☺
I love your video. thank you
Keep up your good videos! Thinking Hatch maybe my next big investment for my life passion Thank you Linder!
Watched right through both videos but you never showed how to hoop that knit shirt or why you shouldnt float a tshirt 😥
See Part 1
I really like your videos they are very informative, but your site for your book sucks. I have tried 6 times to get an account registered and it just won't work, so I guess I won't be buying your book
If you would email me through the Contact page on the website, I can help you. "It doesn't work" doesn't give me a lot of information about where the problem is. 33 accounts have been created today and I suspect 1/2 of those are spam accounts since they remain unconfirmed. The site uses standard popular off-the-shelf software for the shopping cart but it does require you to confirm your account to minimize spam accounts.
İs this how grandma's flex on eachother?
how about towel's and ,Baby Blanket's Starch them!
I don't starch them unless you're talking about linen towels.
Embroidery quilting template