You were very well prepared regarding the necessary brake tools, etc. in order to replace the Dodge Dart front pads & rotors! Did you put the pad clip holders back on?
@@GreenTugBoat I just make sure it evaporates before applying. Sometimes I have to wait a minute other times I just blow on the brake cleaner till it’s done
How about bleeding the brake lines? I have a 2014 Dart SXT with 4.2 multi-air. Currently 148,000+ miles on factory pads. Recently (today, 9-29-23) my brakes failed. I was 45 miles from home. Have acquired a new set of pads [front and rear]. The greater issue I have, is that I lost all pedal pressure. Brakes engage at the bottom of the pedal. I have NOT gotten into it yet. Researching and gathering information before I delve into the task. Any assistance it troubleshooting and getting her back on the road is tremendously appreciated.
For brakes to full on fail with no warning and no leaks I’d be more concerned the master cylinder went out. Assuming you still have fluid in resevior and meat on the pads anyway.
@@JustFixinGarage initially, there was still fluid in the reservoir. I hadn't checked since returning home (dark out. Fresh look in the morning). Pads need to be replaced, regardless. Can further inspect each caliper and associated elements at that time. Once the pads are complete, fill the reservoir and see what happens. Say that all goes well with the replacement of the pads, is there any special or specific way that the brake lines should be bled?
@@keystoneprepper1369 well if it goes completely dry in the master and lines of fluid some cars you need a scan tool to help bleed the abs pump. Otherwise you can bleed the car and still have a soft pedal. I think the darts all have abs . Otherwise air can get trapped in there . The standard method of doing the furthest wheel first usually does the trick. Then again now that most abs systems have a dedicated brake line to each wheel it’s less of a requirement now. Just keep bleeding till you get clear clean fluid with no air bubbles. Don’t let the master go dry. Air isn’t usually something that magically while driving goes into the system and causes you to lose brakes . Like you mentioned though if the pads are super low it will take more pedal to feel a stop . Suck out the old fluid from master with a turkey baster then top all off with new fluid so you don’t have to bleed as long and don’t let it go dry .
@@JustFixinGarage OK, changed the pads (the originals still looked pretty good in my opinion). Filled the reservoir and tried the pressure. Built up and lost pressure quickly. Fluid on the ground from under the driver's side front. Wasn't able to specify where it was coming from. There was fluid coming from the cap area while compressing pistons on the calipers. I surmised that it is most likely the master cylinder. Have acquired a replacement. Have not found any videos/instruction for exchanging them. Any tips or instruction that you could provide?
@@keystoneprepper1369 it’s the same process for any other master . You’ll wanna bench bleed it , then install , then bleed all 4 wheels. I’m sure there’s a few videos on bench bleeding the master it is critical this be done or you’ll never get all the air out.
I replaced the alternator battery . On my 2014 dodge dart Gt . After I started the car it melted and burnt the 200amp fuse on the positive battery terminal I’m stuck and have no idea why this happened can you help
Sounds like the wire going to the alternator or the alternator itself is having issues causing a short or overcharging the system . If that’s the case I’d suggest the wire from battery to alternator be checked for damage and if needed replace the alternator (I do have a video for that ). Other than a short to ground or overcharging/over current I can’t see any reason the fuse should blow .
@@JustFixinGarage I replaced the alternator and the battery . It’s a 140amp alternator I guess that’s what the 2.4l comes with from factory . Never had any issues before this . Car just locked up on me no breaker stead it or anything got a jump and got it home
@@joestepp4157 so what current issues are you having use problems starting ? If that fuse blew out and the wire isn’t shorted to ground it could be a bad new alternator . Unfortunately with remanufactured units and even new are hit and miss . These cars are know to have bad ground connections and need cleaning I have a video where I do a starter and a video where I do the alternator and a ground cleaning. Hopefully you can get the car under control
@@JustFixinGarage I seen all your videos on the starter and ground and everything . I think it’s a bad new part . These 2.4l darts are noting but electrical nightmares thanks for your help
I stick with just parts store these were AutoZone pads and rotors . If it were more performance I would look into other stuff but with the commercial account it makes the pads and rotors pretty cheap :)
I like that "orange color" on your Dodge Dart!
You were very well prepared regarding the necessary brake tools, etc. in order to replace the Dodge Dart front pads & rotors! Did you put the pad clip holders back on?
Did you wipe off the brake cleaner before putting on the anti seize
@@GreenTugBoat I just make sure it evaporates before applying. Sometimes I have to wait a minute other times I just blow on the brake cleaner till it’s done
How about bleeding the brake lines? I have a 2014 Dart SXT with 4.2 multi-air. Currently 148,000+ miles on factory pads. Recently (today, 9-29-23) my brakes failed. I was 45 miles from home. Have acquired a new set of pads [front and rear]. The greater issue I have, is that I lost all pedal pressure. Brakes engage at the bottom of the pedal. I have NOT gotten into it yet. Researching and gathering information before I delve into the task. Any assistance it troubleshooting and getting her back on the road is tremendously appreciated.
For brakes to full on fail with no warning and no leaks I’d be more concerned the master cylinder went out. Assuming you still have fluid in resevior and meat on the pads anyway.
@@JustFixinGarage initially, there was still fluid in the reservoir. I hadn't checked since returning home (dark out. Fresh look in the morning). Pads need to be replaced, regardless. Can further inspect each caliper and associated elements at that time. Once the pads are complete, fill the reservoir and see what happens.
Say that all goes well with the replacement of the pads, is there any special or specific way that the brake lines should be bled?
@@keystoneprepper1369 well if it goes completely dry in the master and lines of fluid some cars you need a scan tool to help bleed the abs pump. Otherwise you can bleed the car and still have a soft pedal. I think the darts all have abs . Otherwise air can get trapped in there . The standard method of doing the furthest wheel first usually does the trick. Then again now that most abs systems have a dedicated brake line to each wheel it’s less of a requirement now. Just keep bleeding till you get clear clean fluid with no air bubbles. Don’t let the master go dry. Air isn’t usually something that magically while driving goes into the system and causes you to lose brakes . Like you mentioned though if the pads are super low it will take more pedal to feel a stop . Suck out the old fluid from master with a turkey baster then top all off with new fluid so you don’t have to bleed as long and don’t let it go dry .
@@JustFixinGarage OK, changed the pads (the originals still looked pretty good in my opinion). Filled the reservoir and tried the pressure. Built up and lost pressure quickly. Fluid on the ground from under the driver's side front. Wasn't able to specify where it was coming from. There was fluid coming from the cap area while compressing pistons on the calipers. I surmised that it is most likely the master cylinder. Have acquired a replacement. Have not found any videos/instruction for exchanging them. Any tips or instruction that you could provide?
@@keystoneprepper1369 it’s the same process for any other master . You’ll wanna bench bleed it , then install , then bleed all 4 wheels. I’m sure there’s a few videos on bench bleeding the master it is critical this be done or you’ll never get all the air out.
I replaced the alternator battery . On my 2014 dodge dart Gt . After I started the car it melted and burnt the 200amp fuse on the positive battery terminal I’m stuck and have no idea why this happened can you help
Sounds like the wire going to the alternator or the alternator itself is having issues causing a short or overcharging the system . If that’s the case I’d suggest the wire from battery to alternator be checked for damage and if needed replace the alternator (I do have a video for that ). Other than a short to ground or overcharging/over current I can’t see any reason the fuse should blow .
@@JustFixinGarage I replaced the alternator and the battery . It’s a 140amp alternator I guess that’s what the 2.4l comes with from factory . Never had any issues before this . Car just locked up on me no breaker stead it or anything got a jump and got it home
@@joestepp4157 so what current issues are you having use problems starting ? If that fuse blew out and the wire isn’t shorted to ground it could be a bad new alternator . Unfortunately with remanufactured units and even new are hit and miss . These cars are know to have bad ground connections and need cleaning I have a video where I do a starter and a video where I do the alternator and a ground cleaning. Hopefully you can get the car under control
@@JustFixinGarage I seen all your videos on the starter and ground and everything . I think it’s a bad new part . These 2.4l darts are noting but electrical nightmares thanks for your help
@@joestepp4157 you got that right . Seems to save cost they made wires small and fragile and electronics a nightmare .
Nice, which rotor and pads did you go with
I stick with just parts store these were AutoZone pads and rotors . If it were more performance I would look into other stuff but with the commercial account it makes the pads and rotors pretty cheap :)
Thanks. I managed to find some brakestop. Need to do suspension also as with over 100k the stock stuff is blown out
Use a 19mm to get the lugs off. Works so much better
Awesome video! Thanks
So helpful, thank you!!🙏🏼
Glad it was helpful! sometimes I wonder if a simple brake change is worth filming but at the current cost of labor people need to know.
I’m trying to save money so this video helped🫶🏻
@@truffles181 glad it was helpful ! Sometimes it’s nice to have a video for reference :)