Porsche 914 Splicing a Harness, Fuse Block restored with Vinegar! [Project Bumblebee ep 13]
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Hang with me while I restore a rare Porsche 914 LE ”Bumblebee” in my home garage. In episode 13 I replace the fuse block, show you how to make a super strong wire soldered splice so you never have to use a crimp connector again, and we have fun with some simple but amazing chemistry. The car is really coming along…and so are the episodes. Please subscribe so you know when they go live!
Parts and companies mentioned in this video:
914rubber.com/
Harness tape:
914rubber.com/...
Wire Hold-Down Covering:
914rubber.com/...
![Porsche 914 How to Restore the Engine Grille [Project Bumblebee Ep 14]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/H5B108S6DvA/mqdefault.jpg)
![Porsche 914 How to Restore the Engine Grille [Project Bumblebee Ep 14]](/img/tr.png)
![Porsche 914 How to Restore Trailing Arms, Rear Bearings and Dash Switches [Project Bumblebee Ep. 15]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n37Yx7Nxil8/mqdefault.jpg)
![Porsche 914 Pop Up Headlights - How to Build, Test and Install [Project Bumblebee Build Week 17]](/img/1.gif)
Great Video. I've just started restoring my harness. Cleaning tip I found is to use cheap packs of Antiseptic Wipes, the alcohol cleans the wires great.
Thanks for the kind words and the great tip!
Heh. This brings back memories. Back in the 80s would up replacing so many wires in our 914 I had almost laid down a new harness right next to the old one before I realized I'd need to take the wires ones out to make everything fit. I had never seen corrosion actually climbing up the wires inside the insulation before.
yeah, it does that. Sometimes you have to cut the wire back further because the ends are corroded.
Nice work Ian, taught me a couple new tricks for this old dog🐶
Cool...thanks!
Ian could I make a couple of suggestions? I would suggest that since you have removed and are rewrapping the harness I would suggest that it would be a great idea to run brand new 10 or 12 gauge wire for the power leads from the battery. These are critical circuits that feeds power from the battery to the front of the car (Fuse Box and Ignition) and from the battery to the Regulatory box in the engine bay. Secondly if you plan to add a few convenience options, heated seats or stereo, NOW is the time to run a separate new 8 - 12 gauge power wire to the front of the car and use a small secondary fuse box to provide a safe alternative to overloading the stock fuse box. Thirdly, as important as point #1 & #2 are, you can ensure the rest of the wires are truly ok by using a multimeter to check each wire for connectivity (resistance). Having done this you should be ok.
Hi Norman. All great suggestions, thanks. I've been going through the wires with the multimeter and all seems ok. The resistance isn't too bad, considering these wires are nearly 50 years old. This being an LE, I'm trying to keep it as stock as possible, so I won't be installing any extra stuff...though running a spare 10 gauge line through the tunnel sounds like a great idea.
Another great video Ian! I’d suggest that when splicing multiple wires stair step the solder joints to avoid a big bulge in the wire bundle
That's a great tip. Thanks!
Nice info on wire repair.
Thanks 👍
Excellent instructions. Still enjoying these videos
Glad you like them! Please lmk when you stop enjoying them ;)
Thanks for the videos on the 914 - just performed your "tricks" on my wiring harness, cutting the tape - works very well. And the chemistry with salt and vinigar, the fuse block is like new . Great videos, well explained, and very useful
Thanks...glad the videos helped!
Thank you so much for the tutorial , I m useless on car electrics you are a godsend!!
Glad to help...but remember I'm not a professional!
Great job as usual. My blood pressure went up when I saw the title of the video but you simplified it nicely. I especially like the chemistry!
Thanks Rob. My blood pressure goes up when I say the word "Chemistry". My worst subject by far.
Thanks, Ian! Great work! Love your videos.
Glad you like them!
Great video as always....thanks Ian...
Thanks, Billy. We get by with a little help from our friends ;)
@@IanKarr ha ha, yes we do....and not everybody gets that! Love your vids and especially appreciate the help...
Great vid brother. I am fortunate that I am not after originality on both my 914s nor the Opel GT so I will be able to go with aftermarket "hot rod" harnesses and have two complete (72 & 74) 914 harnesses as donors for any future real restoration. Keep 'em coming Ian!
Cool. I haven't heard of anyone putting a painless or other aftermarket harness in a 914. Do a video!
Thanks for another great video Ian! The quality and camera work is outstanding. Hoping to do restorative work on my 74 914 next year. Thanks again
Thanks so much. Enjoy the restoration!
So glad you like the videos. Thanks!
On racecars I used double crimp fittings with the right tool. Solder can lead to breaking due to the significant vibrations imposed. There is no resilience in a pure racecar!
You're right. Mine is just a street car so I opted for solder. Especially since I didn't have the right crimp tool for that size eye ;)
I have seen a lot of debate over the years about rosin-core versus non-rosin-core solder. If you're using flux already, I think the rosin is unneeded, and if it really can eventually corrode the wires as some claim, it's better to use the non-core stuff.
As Gene said, crimped connections can be better in some ways than soldered, but it depends on the technique. I do not recommend using a pair of pliers the way that you did unless you will also be soldering. The proper tools have specific shapes to their anvils that do things like cause the edges of the "flaps" on the part that gets crimped to curl in toward the wire. Take a look at the crimped-on terminals on the factory harness to see what I mean there. A good quality crimper with the correct anvil will make a super strong connection.
I'm a little disappointed that you didn't show yourself taking a soldered connection apart so you could put the shrink tubing on. It seems like I always forget to put the tubing on FIRST at least once in any project, so I have to take the joint apart again to put the shrink tubing on. (At LEAST once!!)
Speaking of shrink tubing, the thicker grade of it works pretty well as a hold-down protector.
Thanks, Dave. Yeah I've heard that debate as well. For me, rosin core without flux doesn't seem to wick as well. I could've used non-core, but it adds so little I wouldn't think it mattered. You're absolutely right about the crimping...I probably should've made the distinction between the typical consumer stuff and professional grade. It's the crappy plastic and plier-ed stuff that I'm on a campaign to eradicate. And HA...yes I've said my share of expletives after forgetting to slip the shrink on first! Really appreciate your feedback, as usual.
Great work Ian, did the same on my harness recently!
Cool, thanks! Hope it all worked out...
Nice video, as usual, Ian ;)
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice video, but you stopped one step short of what I was looking for. ;)
Did you replace the fuses? If so, did you use the original style or upgrade to the enclosed glass vial type?
Thanks. I stayed with the original torpedo style. The only upgrade I’m aware of is the JWest blade type fuse box.
hang on, hang on, @ 1:12 there is nothing wrong with crimp connectors per se, and it could even be argued that soldered connections on vibrating machinery should be outlawed.
It all comes down to whether you know what you are doing and whether you are using the right materials, the right tools and the right technique.
Its obvious to an experienced eye that an inferior tool was used to crimp the blue connectors @ 1:10.
Keep in mind that on air cooled Volkswagens and Porsches every electrical connector was crimped at the factory.
You're absolutely right, Noel. It all boils down to experience and using the right materials. I was just shaking my head at the crappy connectors and the fact that so many people use them ;)
I really want to thank you for this trick. I’ve often thought about soldering my wires. Wiring harness is always a spot of anxiety for me. Thank you so much for this video. Hey have you ever seen a VW SP2?
Glad to help. No...I haven't seen an SP2 but will google now!
@@IanKarr -- They're super cool, a Type I with a very sleek body on it! (Evidently was called "sim potenza" by detractors--"no power" in Portugese!)
Kind of like the Puma, which is also worth looking up.
@@davedarling4316 I’ve always wanted a puma. Came close on BAT a while back. I like Opel GTs too ;)
Ian, great videos! Is there a way to reach out to you and ask a couple of questions?
Thanks
John
Thanks, John! The best way is probably to DM me on 914world.com. My username is iankarr.
Nice update Ian! Did you have any thoughts about creating a board to lay out the whole harness and clean the whole harness at one time, ensuring that everything matches to the factory diagrams?
If the harness was completely out of the car, I definitely would've done something like that. Unfortunately / fortunately, the harness was already through the tunnel when I got it and looked good enough to proceed without pulling it out entirely.
Jim Hoyland did that - had it hanging on the wall in his garage. Looked like cool wall art to boot.
Thanks! Great stuff. But do not be so hard on crimped connections. A proper gas-tight crimp on stranded wire is superior to solder. It has less electrical resistance, and vibration is less likely to cause strand failures. The problem is poor tools and/or techniques, not crimp technology. That said, a good solder joint is likely to be fine for many years.
Thanks, Gene. Great point. I could've distinguished between consumer and professional crimping. My hate on crimping is more about the "consumer" grade stuff which is usually terrible.
Oh THANK YOU very much! I hate those damn things and anyone that uses those should be beaten, severely! One other point. If you need to replace auto wire, find "AWM" wire not just "THHN". AWM is rated 105C degree. THHN is rated 90C.
Thanks, Randy!