Nicely done. The only thing I do differently in making a soundpost patch is no sandpaper: sandpaper does not improve the curve that you have carved, it just smooths the surface and pushes sawdust into the pores of the wood, making the glue joint weaker.
Okay. I have always wanted a violin, so I bought one in Very rough condition. Bottom and top were both coming off, warped a little, cracked top, neck looked to be a replacement, pegs loose and peg chamber looked to be re-stained. The Only label inside said 'Germany', paper label. I took it Completely apart and even removed the stain, it has no sound post. This is my first attempt at working with a violin. Did I screw up by taking this instrument down to bare wood? It has been done, though; so is there anything I should know in restraining, varnishing and reassembling?
I enjoyed watching you work. I work in a music store and have seen some of this work done. It is nice to see the art of repair still in good hands. I would have enjoyed it a little more if I could have heard what you were saying.
A violin I just bought for $30 has label that reads: Enrico Robella - Milano. Underneath there was a small label that has the name: Lignatone St. 103-6418. This violin was made in Luby, Czechoslovakia. Would like to know what those numbers are.
Hello, Does anybody know How much it costs (estimate) to repair the bass bar of a violin? Mine has detached since Its been really cold and dry here in Chicago, I just moved form Guatemala (very humid place) climate change is tough. The violin shop I will go to is open until tomorrow. If you could helo, I would really appreciate it.
+Steve Oromaner Normally one put the grain counterwise. I f there is a crack in the spruce top you strenghen it by crossing the grain of the patch, thus avoiding the crack to open again.
Please you could someone give me a hint on how to take off the ebony scale glued from Cello arm. Luthiery'm learning by myself, because I live far from the large urban centers of my country. I intend to form a first musical group with stringed instruments in my municipality. I am very grateful.
That 'hunk of wood' is fitted into the hollowed out plate for a reason. Since the belly will bulge at the sound post a veneer does not prevent that. Ideally the patch to be physically effective would be external, but that would look ugly, so the next best & only decent way to repair a sound post crack is to carve the original would out close to the external surface & fit a new piece to fit it internally. However, to maintain the shape a plaster mould of the belly is made (with separating material like aluminium foil, while being careful not to let the curing heat affect the varnish etc) & that then supports the belly while carving & gluing in the patch. As he has shown, the 'hunk of wood' patch is then carved back to original thickness, although leaving it slightly thicker may not be such a bad thing either.
Thanks for the video - we need to re-learn these sort of skills. Was it a Strad copy, or a real one? And if genuine, than why would they cover the label up?
This is a very common fiddle. Nothing precious. Why didn't you remove the old bass bar, and build a better one and install it, while the top was off? I understand not re-graduating the top, but the bass bar looked like the standard factory carved in poor bar, and sound could be improved a bit by building a stronger more refined bar?
They are block that go in the corners. Look up violin corner blocks on google. I'm sure you'll find photos. Strad, Amati, Del Gesu, they all used them.
Don't use Paypal! "The British Violin" book, Early British makers used through necks, and no corner blocks or linings, and integral bassbars, and that Urquhard set the ribs in a groove in the back. It's worth noticing that these makers were also viol makers. The Pamphilon section notes that he set the ribs into the back, too--the place to look for this if you haven't seen it yet, is right at the ends of the points of the corners vs the back, where often a bit of the rut that's cut for the ribs shows in the back, sticking out past the rib corners. Another hint that this is going on is if the margin of the ribs against the back is absolutely perfect--since it's in grooves, it can't move around.) the book also notes that these makers are "following a Brescian style", which the book later notes was totally dropped by 1720 or so. The general idea currently is "Lack of corner blocks (or fake corner blocks) is almost always a hallmark of a German, 19thC trade fiddle." A "pro" as you put it, makes the decision to add these blocks according to the violin you are working on, if structure is needed.My Pamphilon does have corner blocks and linings (in spite of the recessed ribs) so these I attribute to later additions because the violin has been opened for repair in the past.The 'zero mould' tradition of violin making was actually more widespread than is often supposed. It is mainly seen in 17thC instruments and comes from the viol construction methods. It is typified by complete lack of corner blocks and ribs recessed into grooves in front and back plates. Just a little info for you
@@Candelaresearchcenter Thanks! Very interesting! Why didn't he build a new better bass bar? Is that taboo in the violin world. Certainly there are a million of these types of fiddles around. I can understand not re-graduating the top, but the bass bar looks so crappy!
1. That is (of course) not a genuine Strad - not even CLOSE. 2. The repair need not have taken a week. I can do that in less than half a day - maybe he just wanted to make more money off an insignificant repair? 3. The volume is pretty low and the technician obviously has little knowledge of electronic gadgetry. Sad.
If a 'genuine Strad' was cracked at the sound post it would need a similar patch, but done with a plaster cast support to maintain shape. Sure it would devalue the instrument, but a cracked belly at the sound post has already done that.
Well, I have heard of being detailed, but removing the entire top to put a sound post in takes the cake! Fake violin, maybe fake method? Re-title your vid, bub.
He had to remove the top of the violin to repair a crack in the wood. In a simple soundpost repair it can be done without removing the top. This was more complex due to tge crack and the need for a wood patch to be glued in place.
Yeah, I am really not sure if you are knowledgeable in the field of sarcasm? What is the title f the vid? Oh, nevermind. If you didn't get it, I really can't explain it.
Nicely done. The only thing I do differently in making a soundpost patch is no sandpaper: sandpaper does not improve the curve that you have carved, it just smooths the surface and pushes sawdust into the pores of the wood, making the glue joint weaker.
A scraper does a better & more accurate finishing job than sandpaper.
If you sand, use compressed air to blow out the sawdust. This works well for me.
Thank you for the video but I can't really hear it but educational to watch I give this video a thumbs up
I cant hear what he's saying the volume is too low. Even with my volume all the way up.
this was a wonderful video. i like the fact that it showed the entire process. could you post more videos like this? i thoroughly enjoyed this video.
Given the quality of the violin, carved in bass bar, no corner blocks etc.. was the repair worth doing. ?
Okay. I have always wanted a violin, so I bought one in Very rough condition. Bottom and top were both coming off, warped a little, cracked top, neck looked to be a replacement, pegs loose and peg chamber looked to be re-stained. The Only label inside said 'Germany', paper label. I took it Completely apart and even removed the stain, it has no sound post. This is my first attempt at working with a violin. Did I screw up by taking this instrument down to bare wood? It has been done, though; so is there anything I should know in restraining, varnishing and reassembling?
I enjoyed watching you work. I work in a music store and have seen some of this work done. It is nice to see the art of repair still in good hands. I would have enjoyed it a little more if I could have heard what you were saying.
In my experience, water-like super glue works for soundpost crack very well. The repair work is simple and fast.
A violin I just bought for $30 has label that reads: Enrico Robella - Milano. Underneath there was a small label that has the name: Lignatone St. 103-6418. This violin was made in Luby, Czechoslovakia. Would like to know what those numbers are.
Hello, Does anybody know How much it costs (estimate) to repair the bass bar of a violin? Mine has detached since Its been really cold and dry here in Chicago, I just moved form Guatemala (very humid place) climate change is tough. The violin shop I will go to is open until tomorrow. If you could helo, I would really appreciate it.
Should direction of the grain of the patch match the direction of the top grain? Does this effect the sound? Very nice video!
+Steve Oromaner Normally one put the grain counterwise. I f there is a crack in the spruce top you strenghen it by crossing the grain of the patch, thus avoiding the crack to open again.
i like to know if this was strad and sound test playing of this instrument more info subtitles are working
It looks like the grain in the wood of the patch was running perpendicular to the grain of the violin top. Is that right?
That's the way it's usually done, for sake of strength.
Please you could someone give me a hint on how to take off the ebony scale glued from Cello arm. Luthiery'm learning by myself, because I live far from the large urban centers of my country. I intend to form a first musical group with stringed instruments in my municipality. I am very grateful.
+Wellington Amancio .... try to use heat and steam ...
+JB Violins (JosBIGnightout) , thank you very much.
+Wellington Amancio Padim A hair dryer works well also.
why would you not jjust use a maple/spruce veneer for the cleat and the post patch? that hunk of wood seemed way to thick for both
That 'hunk of wood' is fitted into the hollowed out plate for a reason. Since the belly will bulge at the sound post a veneer does not prevent that. Ideally the patch to be physically effective would be external, but that would look ugly, so the next best & only decent way to repair a sound post crack is to carve the original would out close to the external surface & fit a new piece to fit it internally. However, to maintain the shape a plaster mould of the belly is made (with separating material like aluminium foil, while being careful not to let the curing heat affect the varnish etc) & that then supports the belly while carving & gluing in the patch. As he has shown, the 'hunk of wood' patch is then carved back to original thickness, although leaving it slightly thicker may not be such a bad thing either.
Thanks for the video - we need to re-learn these sort of skills. Was it a Strad copy, or a real one? And if genuine, than why would they cover the label up?
gorgeous back grain ,does it look awfully deep ??? the body that is??
Did that plate need to be pulled and reset again after the video?
I see and understand what you are doing, but not why. What was the original problem? Was it cracked/too thin or what?
+Gunnar Bergvall Well seems I found the answer in the comments. It was a crack that had to be patched.
that was that was a great video thank you
That is a thick looking fiddle!
good job man thanks extraordinary violin
A true Straduarius label only has the 1 typed on the label. The following 3 digits of the date are hand written.
the insert has the grain willing trsversalmente, why?
Well done, thanks.
This is a very common fiddle. Nothing precious. Why didn't you remove the old bass bar, and build a better one and install it, while the top was off? I understand not re-graduating the top, but the bass bar looked like the standard factory carved in poor bar, and sound could be improved a bit by building a stronger more refined bar?
can you please put sub titles, the sound is too low!
strange, I only have my volume up less than 50 % and no problem
Should use rudimentary hazmat equipment while sweeping out dust once opened.
Watch the video. He did make a plaster mold. I know the sound is low, so perhaps you didn't hear him.
7:35 - It's buried in there, but he says they made a mold for the plate.
He took the top off because it had a crack that needed repair. The most obvious thing is no corner blocks! That's not the way a pro would repair it.
They are block that go in the corners. Look up violin corner blocks on google. I'm sure you'll find photos. Strad, Amati, Del Gesu, they all used them.
Don't use Paypal!
"The British Violin" book, Early British makers used through necks, and no corner blocks or linings, and integral bassbars, and that Urquhard set the ribs in a groove in the back. It's worth noticing that these makers were also viol makers. The Pamphilon section notes that he set the ribs into the back, too--the place to look for this if you haven't seen it yet, is right at the ends of the points of the corners vs the back, where often a bit of the rut that's cut for the ribs shows in the back, sticking out past the rib corners. Another hint that this is going on is if the margin of the ribs against the back is absolutely
perfect--since it's in grooves, it can't move around.) the book also
notes that these makers are "following a Brescian style", which the book
later notes was totally dropped by 1720 or so. The general idea currently is
"Lack of corner blocks (or fake corner blocks) is almost always a hallmark of a German, 19thC trade fiddle." A "pro" as you put it, makes the decision to add these blocks according to the violin you are working on, if structure is needed.My Pamphilon does have corner blocks and linings (in spite of the recessed ribs) so these I attribute to later additions because the violin has been opened for repair in the past.The 'zero mould' tradition of violin making was actually more widespread than is often supposed. It is mainly seen in 17thC instruments and comes from the viol construction methods.
It is typified by complete lack of corner blocks and ribs recessed into grooves in front and back plates. Just a little info for you
@@Candelaresearchcenter Thanks! Very interesting! Why didn't he build a new better bass bar? Is that taboo in the violin world. Certainly there are a million of these types of fiddles around. I can understand not re-graduating the top, but the bass bar looks so crappy!
Why don't people put the volume up enough so that people who don't have really big amplifiers can hear through there iPad.
1. That is (of course) not a genuine Strad - not even CLOSE. 2. The repair need not have taken a week. I can do that in less than half a day - maybe he just wanted to make more money off an insignificant repair? 3. The volume is pretty low and the technician obviously has little knowledge of electronic gadgetry. Sad.
this just drives me nuts...I can hear what hes's saying
Friederich August Glass :D
All good.
What a waste...can't hear anything....
Looked like dust AND some rat turds... lol!
Very cool vid tho!
I used ear phones - much easier to hear.
It always bothers me to see brush cleaning instead of a vaccum head with brushes. You're just rubbing it into the pores.
Why would he dig into the belly of a genuine Strad!!! Even if it's incorrect, he carved that with his own hands centuries ago!!
If a 'genuine Strad' was cracked at the sound post it would need a similar patch, but done with a plaster cast support to maintain shape. Sure it would devalue the instrument, but a cracked belly at the sound post has already done that.
Looks like it would have been an interesting video. Couldn’t hear. A pity.
Next time
Very poor sounding commentary!,
Well, I have heard of being detailed, but removing the entire top to put a sound post in takes the cake! Fake violin, maybe fake method? Re-title your vid, bub.
He had to remove the top of the violin to repair a crack in the wood. In a simple soundpost repair it can be done without removing the top. This was more complex due to tge crack and the need for a wood patch to be glued in place.
rockabillygone he removed top to repair soundpost damage and cracks to top table please note contents before talking crap
Yeah, I am really not sure if you are knowledgeable in the field of sarcasm? What is the title f the vid? Oh, nevermind. If you didn't get it, I really can't explain it.
Speak up!
All your mastery in lutherie...and ONE MINUTE to learn how to use a microphone in RUclips????????????? I can hear Absolutely nothing.