Thank you so for share your knowledge of setting in the sound post. There is no one out there that provide such details because they are all violin makers who is keeping a trade secret. It really come down logic. Cheer from Canada.
Very clear. You are always wonderful. Thank you for this accurate description. I will try that after purchasing these tools. I am fully confident that the sound is much nicer.🙏🏻
Great videos for the novice! Prior to this, and not even thinking to watch other folk do this. I did sand the ends to shape. They did work fine, but I must have looked at the thickness of the post and thought " A blade's not going to go all the way through that" But this is way easier and more accurate Thanks!!
Tip... I work with leather and use the utility knife for most of my work. I have a leather strop I made by gluing a piece of leather down to a flat board and rub jeweler's rouge into it. Then I strop the blades of my utility knives on it. Even the brand new ones can be sharpened to a super sharp edge sharper then out of the box. Try it once you may be surprised at how much difference it will make. For those out there who may want to do this without having to make the strop they can buy one from Tandy Leather pre-made along with the jeweler's rouge. It will make your blades go a lot longer and will strop many other knives to a micro fine edge. Also thanks for the very well done video!
Yes of course. We use sharpening stones and leather as well but the general public doesn't have that kind of equipment. Thanks for the tip. :) I've never bothered sharpening a utility knife but it makes perfect sense.
I never sharpened new utility blades until I started working with leather. You should try stropping them first you will be able to tell the difference and you will be able to use them longer and might throw away your special knife. I have a tool box full of special knives that I don't use much anymore because of this tip.
Very informative video ! I do exactly how you do . I wet both the ends of the post in hot water for a few minutes before fitting. I get a a very perfect fit and smooth adjustment
My luthier also makes sure the grain alignment of the post is correct with the grain of the top. Much better tonal response when this critical detail is followed.
Thank you sir. Bought a used cello with loose sound pole ( was too short ) now im making a new and fitting it, a little bit more confident about it, after your video. Greetings from Sweden. /Max
I know Uppsala well. I was a concert master of the Gävle Symfoniorkester for 4 years before we moved to Malmo. Lived and worked as a principle in MSO for 16 years.
Very Nice Video , Really I followed the steps one by one and succeeded in cutting and fixing a new sound post , how can I buy a sound post stick made from old wood ? I hope to have answer Thank you
Thanks. There are lots of specialized wood stores that sell seasoned wood. We sell sound posts at Fiddlershop but not so seasoned. If you're looking for 5 to 10 years, we can help you.
I didn't want to go through all that trouble so I cut a small door in the back of my fiddle with a couple of small brass hinges to give it some character and a little knob to open the back, so I can adjust the soundpost. ....................................JUST KIDDING!!!!!
When adjusting the soundpost you need to loosen the top strings and should have a decent knowledge of what your changes do to the sound. I could obviously make a video but am a bit afraid that people would knock down their sound posts and blame me. :(`
@@1stfiddlerman I never stick the sound post with the pointy end thing. I tune the post to match the resonance of the back plate and I shave the back plate so that the sound post point is what drive the back plate resonance. Think of the violin as an air pump. The area between the f holes is the tweeter for the high notes so make it thin.
Hello sir, I was wondering, If I requested it, could I get a Fiddlerman Soloist Violin set up in the original set up? And if not then, could I ask for carved Pegs and A Carved Tailpiece?
Great video. I want to try to make a new post for my double bass, I'm pretty sure the same procedure works but do you think I can make clean single cuts like these on a 16mm post? Or should I work more gradually. Thanks
I think if you have a real good knife in which you sharpen properly, yes you can make paper thin slices. If by gradually you mean slice a little here and a little there till it's perfect, yes, that would probably be easier.
Very helpful, I knew that the placement of the sound post was important but just how important is extremely important. What recommendation can you suggest if the base-bar develops a crack and may need attention?
Hello Fiddlerman, good video, you just make it look soooo easy, ha! OK, after hit and my violins were sent sailing all over the keys, I have been slowly trying to restore the ones that were found and given back to me. :( One that I've rescued I sounds like a cigar box, so frustrating, what can I do? No one talks about the boxy sound, but I can't remember how to adjust the sound post to get the best sound. Please help! Kay
Hey Kay.... Nice to see you hear. We spoke yesterday and of course you're welcome to come by any time for a professional adjustment, maybe with Lou and the gang. :) Sounds to me like your sound-post is either in the wrong place or too loose. We'll find out though.
Shouldn't the grain go in a certain direction for the soundpost (Left fhole to right when viewed from the top )? or is that just one of those "things"?
I realized only last week that the reason why my violin does not play loud and why it had this wolf tone (which wasn't there before) was that the sound post was missing. I played it for 2 months without knowing why a wolf tone suddenly was there and I failed to notice the sound post was missing. So, yeah I finally noticed the lost sound post, no trace of it inside the violin. But even though I'm no violin expert, I knew I had to replace it with something so I searched for some random replacement and I saw a wooden chopstick. I cut a cylinder of wood from it and using a large safety pin bent into the shape of the soundpost placer, and with perseverance I was able to place the chopstick soundpost. The violin is louder and that annoying wolf tone is gone (I had a hunch that it would vanish once I place a soundpost). And the good thing is that it didn't cost me anything. Then again, is this safe for my violin, using wood from a chopstick that's not really cylindrical, somewhat flattened but not too much? It got rid of the wolf tone so I'm immensely happy.
The top needs proper placement of a sound post to help support the bridge when the strings are tuned to pitch. Without a proper soundpost the top could become cracked or warped. Never tune to pitch without a soundpost in place for this reason.
Fiddlerman , I need help. I just purchased a Barcus Berry 3100 violin pickup. I plugged it into my a tailgater. I am using a converter to convert the pickup jack to a normal microphone/headset jack. It won't work when I try to use it. I was wondering if the pickup powers up or if it requires a battery. I can't seem to get it to work.
Can you tell me what kind of audio tailgater you have? You mentioned mic/headphone jack. Headphones are out and mics are in. You need to make sure you are using an input and not and output. Secondly, there might be a preamp on your tailgater. If you use a converter I'm not sure what that converter is doing. Are we talking USB to Phono plug? If so, it might not work properly. I suggest that you bring your fiddle to a guitar shop with your pickup and test it on one of their guitar or keyboard amps. They'll be happy to let you do that in hopes of selling an amp. It'll give you an idea of what that pickup can really do. :)
I just tested it with 3 amplifiers today. It didn't work....i mean there is no battery to power the pickup....so what i was wondering is if it requires a pre-amp to power it. Fiddlerman ...oh by the way i just purchased a 1/4 size plug so we don't have to take the adapter into mind anymore
Oasis Music and Programming Tutorials Sounds like you purchased a bad pick-up. I can't imagine you purchased it from us since we do not sell the 1/8" jack BB3100. When and where did you purchase it? Did you bring it to a music store to test?
No, I purchased it else where......oh sorry....I meant 1/4 size jack.....I purchased it about last Thursday and received it yesterday. I didn't bring it to a music store but I brought it to a professional music teacher I know and I had him test it with numerous amplifiers and cords and what not to which it worked for none. Both he and I still are puzzling as to rather or not it uses battery or if it uses a preamp to power it. When I played acoustically, the pickup created a rattling sound. No matter what I tried, I couldn't resolve the rattle. I decided to take the pickup off and as I unscrewed it my bridge came out....I wound up breaking a few of my prim strings and scratching the violin. I later on (after putting the bridge in place and putting on new strings) put the pickup on again to see once more if I could resolve the rattle. I tried tightening the screws more than I had prior on the pickup to see if getting rid of some of the movability. I wound up tightening the screws to much and cracking the bridge......I am now thinking about sending my barcus berry 3100 back and getting a barcus berry 3120 where as the pickup is built into the bridge. This I hope might resolve my issues with my newly broken bridge and my lack of a functioning pickup Fiddlerman today apparently violins despise me and violins have no desire to coexist with me I propose. Hopefully this craziness wont inflict it's self on me every day...today the odds are not in my favor I guess.
Oasis Music and Programming Tutorials LOL, I think your luck must turn soon. :) The bridge must have been too soft. I don't understand how it could otherwise break. The 3120 would require fitting. It's not all that easy to cut a bridge. You need to start with the feet then make the right curve. It's kind of complicated but if you know a reasonable luthier who could do the job for you, you'll probably be satisfied with that. The 3100 and the 3120 do not require a separate pre-amp but the amps that you used most definitely had built in pre-amps. If you guys tested it on 3 amps, there must be a problem with the pick-up or the install. fiddlershop.com/image/cache/data/barcus-berry-clamp-on-bridge-piezo-pickup-3100-49-550x550.jpg
Yikes. Fascinating, but tedious and exacting. Can see me nudging & tapping away & it falling, keeping me occupied endlessly! Lol. And saying a few choice words. Patience. Thank you for this video. Had heard bits & pieces regarding fit & placement but this is very comprehensive. I might even be able to do one.
The Strad and Guarneri most definitely do not have their original sound-posts. The top on old instruments has risen quite a bit from their original position. Usually a new violin will benefit from a new post already the first year as the top lifts a bit. The downward pressure of the strings balances it out a bit but not as much as the wood reforms from the sound-post pressure, climate and the Spruce settling. Older violins rarely need to have their posts changed since they have settled but climate changes and frequent adjustment can require the need for a new post. Also, it's rare that we pull out a post and find that it's perfect to begin with.
Also, the original soundposts were likely a bit smaller in diameter when the instruments were in their original baroque setup. So even if the original post was in one of those instruments when it was modernized during the 19th century, it would have been replaced.
the problem with using the outside of a violin for angles is that a lot of german cottage violins are finger planed inside and not the same angle inside, I have opened up 100s of violins in my tenure working on them and you will find a lot of them which have totally different angle carvings inside, the only way to verify this is either take apart violin or look through the end-pin hole either by eye or with endoscope is best, cheers..
Very true. It's just a starting point. One should look around the post with mirrors/end pin hole/and take out the post a few times to see where the contact points are to shave razor thin adjustments. Thanks for watching!
I just added it to the about section above. Thanks Inserter Remover Tool: fiddlershop.com/sound-post-inserter-remover.html Sound Post Adjuster: fiddlershop.com/sound-post-adjuster.html Sound Post sticks: fiddlershop.com/sound-post-stick.html
Good video, just few remarks. Soundpost diameter should be 5-6 mm, no more. Your soundpost seems to be very thick. Thick soundpost make sound muffled and not very bright. Thin soundpost makes sound too much metalic with too much trebles and thin soundpost may damage plates so it is important to have correct diameter. Long soundpost damages plates as well. Short soundpost can fall inside instrument. Setting soundpost with the tool is very delicate operation and you never want to touch f holes with soundpost setter. Damages to the f hole like pressed or chiped wood is very ugly and hard to reapair.
@@1stfiddlerman Yes. I got a different chin rest and shoulder rest and tried to find the most relaxed and comfortable positions. Finally in frustration I just grabbed my fiddle and began to play through the pain and problems with abandon. That's when I "found myself". I love the violin and don't care if it hurts. Little by little I will get used to it. Meanwhile I have leapt forward it my general ability and sound. Thank you for your inspiring video.
@@michaelriley9884 - Hopefully you can find a way to play that won't be hurtful. Look at some of the chinrest comforters and have a look at shoulder rest options that might fit your body a bit better. The Stradpad is super comfortable IMAO.
@@1stfiddlerman Yes. Now I am not using a shoulder rest and just letting myself get into the music and my body find it's own way around any discomfort. It's seems slow, but my ability to find and create the notes and sound I want comes quickly. I am thankful for that. Besides, I don't really notice the pain as long as I am enthralled.
@@michaelriley9884 Great.. I hope that you get to the point that there is no discomfort. Just try one more thing. With consciousness, don't really hold the violin, just let it be there and focus on only using your left hand fingers to finger the strings, and your right arm to bow. No effort on holding. Just give it a super conscious focus to see if you are able. Glad to hear that things are getting better for you. Also, baby steps forward is all a person can ask for. Sooner or later that will be great, or at the very least, better. :)
:) Glad you found it helpful. Even easier is putting the soundpost in with this soundpost remover and setter: fiddlershop.com/sound-post-inserter-remover.html I made this video quite a while ago but never uploaded it. Had planned on redoing it but never did so just went ahead and uploaded it anyway. :)
im close to 4 mins in the video.. question before i froget, can this be done by taping a small piece of sandpaper in the place that you test the angle and rub the post on it? wouldn't it be perfect? just like the bridge's feet?
Franco Buzzetti It would be roundish and wouldn't be completely straight. There is no way to hold it perfect when sanding. The cut needs to be 100% straight. If it's slightly rounded it won't fit perfectly.
Thanks for the video! Could you do a detailed, close up video of only putting the soundpost in? It seems impossible, and in 35 years of playing, no one has taught me. Frustrating. :)
In AC Moore (it's a craft store), they sell wooden dowels of various thickness and lengths. Would I be able to use those dowels? I frequently get 55% off coupons from AC Moore. :)
craft store dowels are usually maple or birch, both are hardwoods, much denser than spruce. Spruce is the correct material due to it's high strength-to-weight ratio.
Happens all the time. However, they don't disappear from inside of the instrument. You turn it upside down, allow it to roll to the f-hole and pry it out carefully.
LOL, I definitely do but I would never drink that stuff. Not a big drinker either. Beer and wine mainly. Everclear (pure grain alcohol 190 proof) is actually great to mix with dyes for coloring, touchup..... etc. It softens the varnish. It's better than Denatured alcoho since there are no additivesl. Good for cleaning off rosin too but be careful, it'll ruin your varnish quickly.
Perhaps. Not sure whether to advise it or now. Many have told me that they successfully learn how to put in and remove sound-posts after my video. Thanks for watching!
It's almost impossible to sand a perfectly straight surface without rounding. Also, the sanding creates a rougher surface unless you sand many grades of paper to micro mesh or close.
It's necessary to make a first soundpost, also, posts become too short when the top rises and need to be replaced. But for sound, you can play an instrument and adjust the post as you wrote.
Thanks for the video first of all. I clamp and glue but, even bend and rehair bows but would not dare to touch the soul ,-). But it´s a very good video, but why would sanding be not good? Sanding a bridge works well, why not sanding a sound post in place?
Sanding is shunned upon by many luthiers and makers for making perfectly straight surfaces and it also heats the material. I personally am not convinced that the heating is bad but this is what many say. A flat file is preferred over sandpaper because they are flat and they cut rather than sand. Our luthiers only use knifes when cutting their sound posts. They don't use sandpaper on the bridge either. They use planes, scrapers, and files. For the perfection of the feet, they use carbon paper to find the high pressure spots.
@@1stfiddlerman well no Fiddler man I'm not a dentist but my dentist retired many years ago and if I have to I'm going to pull one of mine out by my dang self. By the time I left home at age 16 I had a lot of neglect. In a way it was kind of military so we just showed up to have a check on our habits. So we sort of just brushed the front ones to pass inspection. Lol Later As I was now taking responsibility for keeping myself alive my dentist saw me through a long time and made it so I could actually eat food. So I kind of had a lot of familiarity with the subject and he was the best. (Like you and yours are the best)
Our head luthier can do it in less than 60 seconds. The only thing is that to make the best post, he'll make it and test it and go back and forth till it's 100% perfect. :)
Of course. However, this is a great starting point. The angles are extremely close. What differs is the graduation which usually doesn't change drastically. You of course must reverse the post when checking as I did. After cutting the post, one must put it in and check the fit. A great way to check the fit is by looking through the end button hole. Also using dental mirrors.
@@Qwerty8 I bet. We have 8 luthiers at Fiddlershop and they sharpen their knives every single day, sometimes several times a day. We have great stones and diamonds as well as a Tormek, and more just for that sole purpose. It makes a huge difference.
It's a starting point. The angles are very close. Plate graduations are very slight in the 6-7 mm radius of that post. There is obviously much more to it, but my experience shows that it's a good place to start. After that you can shave paper thin slivers from the high spots. I'm sorry you don't like my advice but this video is not intended for a professional, or a luthier.
great video. not many people go into this much detail on sound posts
I can [only] type the word thank you, knowledge sharing is a like teaching a man to fish. A gift to use for a lifetime. ✝SS from Michigan
I appreciate that S S. Thanks for the word, and thanks for the support.
Wow! The definitive sound post how-to for novice, DIY, violin setups. Thanks!
😁
Thank you so for share your knowledge of setting in the sound post. There is no one out there that provide such details because they are all violin makers who is keeping a trade secret. It really come down logic. Cheer from Canada.
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching.
Very clear. You are always wonderful. Thank you for this accurate description. I will try that after purchasing these tools. I am fully confident that the sound is much nicer.🙏🏻
So kind of you to say. I really appreciate that. :)
Great videos for the novice! Prior to this, and not even thinking to watch other folk do this. I did sand the ends to shape. They did work fine, but I must have looked at the thickness of the post and thought " A blade's not going to go all the way through that" But this is way easier and more accurate Thanks!!
I'm glad that you found this useful. The sandpaper probably doesn't affect it much.
Tip... I work with leather and use the utility knife for most of my work. I have a leather strop I made by gluing a piece of leather down to a flat board and rub jeweler's rouge into it. Then I strop the blades of my utility knives on it. Even the brand new ones can be sharpened to a super sharp edge sharper then out of the box. Try it once you may be surprised at how much difference it will make. For those out there who may want to do this without having to make the strop they can buy one from Tandy Leather pre-made along with the jeweler's rouge. It will make your blades go a lot longer and will strop many other knives to a micro fine edge.
Also thanks for the very well done video!
Yes of course. We use sharpening stones and leather as well but the general public doesn't have that kind of equipment. Thanks for the tip. :) I've never bothered sharpening a utility knife but it makes perfect sense.
I never sharpened new utility blades until I started working with leather. You should try stropping them first you will be able to tell the difference and you will be able to use them longer and might throw away your special knife. I have a tool box full of special knives that I don't use much anymore because of this tip.
Very interesting. I'm looking forward to trying it.
@@jasonadams527 chalk up another: "why didn't I think of that?"! Thanks for sharing.✝
Very informative video ! I do exactly how you do . I wet both the ends of the post in hot water for a few minutes before fitting. I get a a very perfect fit and smooth adjustment
Thanks. Sounds great Jerry. Cheers!
Puts in a soundpost with one hand while standing, lol. Very cool. It took me a gazillion tries, plop, roll, retrieve, repeat.
LOL.. Thanks for watching!
My luthier also makes sure the grain alignment of the post is correct with the grain of the top. Much better tonal response when this critical detail is followed.
Yep. :)
Excellent video / presentation. Watched it twice. Thank you very much!
Thank you sir. Bought a used cello with loose sound pole ( was too short ) now im making a new and fitting it, a little bit more confident about it, after your video. Greetings from Sweden. /Max
Good luck. Thanks for watching.
Well, i got a perfect fit. Thanks!
Congrats. Where in Sweden do you live?
I don't know if you know this but my wife is Swedish and I lived in Sweden for 20 years.
Uppsala, originally from Småland. Send greetings to her from a Swede.
I know Uppsala well. I was a concert master of the Gävle Symfoniorkester for 4 years before we moved to Malmo. Lived and worked as a principle in MSO for 16 years.
Fiddlerman is a ninja. Going to order the tool to set the post. Thank you!
LOL
Fiddlerman Ordering from Fiddlershop.com, of course ;)
krackenzap
Thanks
Very Nice Video , Really I followed the steps one by one and succeeded in cutting and fixing a new sound post , how can I buy a sound post stick made from old wood ? I hope to have answer
Thank you
Thanks. There are lots of specialized wood stores that sell seasoned wood. We sell sound posts at Fiddlershop but not so seasoned. If you're looking for 5 to 10 years, we can help you.
wow thank you very much!!!!! I just ried to do this on a cheap violin and worked very fine!! and I did not need to have super expensive special tools!
Great! Glad that it was helpful.
What a great video! Really well explained. This will be of great help. Thanks.
I'm glad to hear it. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Excellent message of video God bless you Sir
Augustine violinist from Malaysia
You are VERY welcome!
I didn't want to go through all that trouble so I cut a small door in the back of my fiddle with a couple of small brass hinges to give it some character and a little knob to open the back, so I can adjust the soundpost. ....................................JUST KIDDING!!!!!
🤔 man I thought it was great idea I want to try it
This was the best of the best explanation of sth! Please! I want you to explain everything about life!
LOL, Finally someone who understands me. ;)
Thanks
@@1stfiddlerman 😂
Great video, Thanks. What about sound post tuning?
When adjusting the soundpost you need to loosen the top strings and should have a decent knowledge of what your changes do to the sound. I could obviously make a video but am a bit afraid that people would knock down their sound posts and blame me. :(`
@@1stfiddlerman I never stick the sound post with the pointy end thing. I tune the post to match the resonance of the back plate and I shave the back plate so that the sound post point is what drive the back plate resonance. Think of the violin as an air pump. The area between the f holes is the tweeter for the high notes so make it thin.
Excellent vid thanks! but where exactly should post be? Under the bridge?
Not under the bridge. Usually about 2-5 mm behind. Centered to the E string foot.
Thankyou for that
Hello sir, I was wondering, If I requested it, could I get a Fiddlerman Soloist Violin set up in the original set up? And if not then, could I ask for carved Pegs and A Carved Tailpiece?
Many thanks for your VDO. I have tried to do many times, and now I can do it myself.
Glad to hear it. Sometimes I get critique for demonstrating things that are perhaps not as easy to do as I make it seem.... So I have heard.
Very informative, thank you.
Do you have a video on adjusting string height? Thanks
Plan on making one soon. :)
Great video! Are you going to do a review on the Ming Jiang Zhu 925 violin?
I guess we would have to invest in one first. We could get stuck with it. One never knows.
Great video. I want to try to make a new post for my double bass, I'm pretty sure the same procedure works but do you think I can make clean single cuts like these on a 16mm post? Or should I work more gradually. Thanks
I think if you have a real good knife in which you sharpen properly, yes you can make paper thin slices. If by gradually you mean slice a little here and a little there till it's perfect, yes, that would probably be easier.
Very helpful, I knew that the placement of the sound post was important but just how important is extremely important. What recommendation can you suggest if the base-bar develops a crack and may need attention?
It's hard to know if the base-bar has a crack but you probably need to remove the top if the base-bar needs work.
SOoo glad I found this as I have a second hand Andreas Zeller but it is missing the sound post. Just ordered a Sound Post Setter.
+Norman Butler Good luck making and fitting one. Be patient. It's not that easy the first few times.
Hello Fiddlerman, good video, you just make it look soooo easy, ha! OK, after hit and my violins were sent sailing all over the keys, I have been slowly trying to restore the ones that were found and given back to me. :( One that I've rescued I sounds like a cigar box, so frustrating, what can I do? No one talks about the boxy sound, but I can't remember how to adjust the sound post to get the best sound. Please help! Kay
Hey Kay.... Nice to see you hear. We spoke yesterday and of course you're welcome to come by any time for a professional adjustment, maybe with Lou and the gang. :)
Sounds to me like your sound-post is either in the wrong place or too loose. We'll find out though.
Thank you soo much, I'm building my first violin and viola... soooo much to find out but I love being at my bench....
It's great to work with you hands and to build something so beautiful right?
Good video. This helped me put my sound post back into my violin after it came out.
Great to hear :)
Shouldn't the grain go in a certain direction for the soundpost (Left fhole to right when viewed from the top )? or is that just one of those "things"?
Yes. Exactly.
I realized only last week that the reason why my violin does not play loud and why it had this wolf tone (which wasn't there before) was that the sound post was missing. I played it for 2 months without knowing why a wolf tone suddenly was there and I failed to notice the sound post was missing. So, yeah I finally noticed the lost sound post, no trace of it inside the violin. But even though I'm no violin expert, I knew I had to replace it with something so I searched for some random replacement and I saw a wooden chopstick. I cut a cylinder of wood from it and using a large safety pin bent into the shape of the soundpost placer, and with perseverance I was able to place the chopstick soundpost. The violin is louder and that annoying wolf tone is gone (I had a hunch that it would vanish once I place a soundpost). And the good thing is that it didn't cost me anything. Then again, is this safe for my violin, using wood from a chopstick that's not really cylindrical, somewhat flattened but not too much? It got rid of the wolf tone so I'm immensely happy.
The top needs proper placement of a sound post to help support the bridge when the strings are tuned to pitch. Without a proper soundpost the top could become cracked or warped. Never tune to pitch without a soundpost in place for this reason.
"Stay-Frosty" that's Sew McGiver, eye 💛 it.
Thanks for this! I followed the video and got it right on the first attempt.
That makes me happy to hear. :)
Great video, very interesting, i wanted to.know where the sound post actually went and you explained it so well, Thank you.
This is beyond craftmanship. How one even learns this?
You could be taught in relatively short time. It probably looks harder than it is. :)
Fiddlerman , I need help. I just purchased a Barcus Berry 3100 violin pickup. I plugged it into my a tailgater. I am using a converter to convert the pickup jack to a normal microphone/headset jack. It won't work when I try to use it. I was wondering if the pickup powers up or if it requires a battery. I can't seem to get it to work.
Can you tell me what kind of audio tailgater you have?
You mentioned mic/headphone jack. Headphones are out and mics are in. You need to make sure you are using an input and not and output. Secondly, there might be a preamp on your tailgater. If you use a converter I'm not sure what that converter is doing. Are we talking USB to Phono plug? If so, it might not work properly.
I suggest that you bring your fiddle to a guitar shop with your pickup and test it on one of their guitar or keyboard amps. They'll be happy to let you do that in hopes of selling an amp. It'll give you an idea of what that pickup can really do. :)
I just tested it with 3 amplifiers today. It didn't work....i mean there is no battery to power the pickup....so what i was wondering is if it requires a pre-amp to power it. Fiddlerman
...oh by the way i just purchased a 1/4 size plug so we don't have to take the adapter into mind anymore
Oasis Music and Programming Tutorials Sounds like you purchased a bad pick-up. I can't imagine you purchased it from us since we do not sell the 1/8" jack BB3100. When and where did you purchase it? Did you bring it to a music store to test?
No, I purchased it else where......oh sorry....I meant 1/4 size jack.....I purchased it about last Thursday and received it yesterday. I didn't bring it to a music store but I brought it to a professional music teacher I know and I had him test it with numerous amplifiers and cords and what not to which it worked for none. Both he and I still are puzzling as to rather or not it uses battery or if it uses a preamp to power it.
When I played acoustically, the pickup created a rattling sound. No matter what I tried, I couldn't resolve the rattle. I decided to take the pickup off and as I unscrewed it my bridge came out....I wound up breaking a few of my prim strings and scratching the violin. I later on (after putting the bridge in place and putting on new strings) put the pickup on again to see once more if I could resolve the rattle. I tried tightening the screws more than I had prior on the pickup to see if getting rid of some of the movability. I wound up tightening the screws to much and cracking the bridge......I am now thinking about sending my barcus berry 3100 back and getting a barcus berry 3120 where as the pickup is built into the bridge. This I hope might resolve my issues with my newly broken bridge and my lack of a functioning pickup Fiddlerman
today apparently violins despise me and violins have no desire to coexist with me I propose. Hopefully this craziness wont inflict it's self on me every day...today the odds are not in my favor I guess.
Oasis Music and Programming Tutorials
LOL, I think your luck must turn soon. :)
The bridge must have been too soft. I don't understand how it could otherwise break. The 3120 would require fitting. It's not all that easy to cut a bridge. You need to start with the feet then make the right curve. It's kind of complicated but if you know a reasonable luthier who could do the job for you, you'll probably be satisfied with that.
The 3100 and the 3120 do not require a separate pre-amp but the amps that you used most definitely had built in pre-amps. If you guys tested it on 3 amps, there must be a problem with the pick-up or the install.
fiddlershop.com/image/cache/data/barcus-berry-clamp-on-bridge-piezo-pickup-3100-49-550x550.jpg
Very nice job Pierre; very useful vid!
Great to hear Fred. :)
Now off and start cutting those sound-posts. ;)
Yikes. Fascinating, but tedious and exacting. Can see me nudging & tapping away & it falling, keeping me occupied endlessly! Lol. And saying a few choice words. Patience. Thank you for this video. Had heard bits & pieces regarding fit & placement but this is very comprehensive. I might even be able to do one.
My violin just got fixated from the sound post. But the sound comes and goes. I don't know what it is happening. Do you?
Not sure either. Can you try to describe your issue in a more specific way? I don't really understand fixated.
sir I want your help will you please help me out I want to change the sound of my violin and make it sound different is there anyway??????????????
seams like my sound post has moved or worse, the tone has weakened. thanks for giving confidence in trying to remedy it. you rule fiddler man.
Good luck!
Thank you for your instructional videos!
You are VERY welcome!!! 😁
Very beautiful violin
How Often... Would You Need To Change A Sound Post. and Would A Stradivarius or Guarneri Still Have Its Orginal Sound Post??!
The Strad and Guarneri most definitely do not have their original sound-posts. The top on old instruments has risen quite a bit from their original position. Usually a new violin will benefit from a new post already the first year as the top lifts a bit. The downward pressure of the strings balances it out a bit but not as much as the wood reforms from the sound-post pressure, climate and the Spruce settling. Older violins rarely need to have their posts changed since they have settled but climate changes and frequent adjustment can require the need for a new post. Also, it's rare that we pull out a post and find that it's perfect to begin with.
Also, the original soundposts were likely a bit smaller in diameter when the instruments were in their original baroque setup. So even if the original post was in one of those instruments when it was modernized during the 19th century, it would have been replaced.
True :)
Helpful video, thanks.
You're very welcome Robin. Cheers!
I love watching these kinds of videos so i understand what the luthier does, but in reality. i'll let a trained professional do this.
Good move. :) Thanks for watching.
great video. i keep coming to it as the information is invaluable.
Thanks Mark :)
very helpful . thank you
the problem with using the outside of a violin for angles is that a lot of german cottage violins are finger planed inside and not the same angle inside, I have opened up 100s of violins in my tenure working on them and you will find a lot of them which have totally different angle carvings inside, the only way to verify this is either take apart violin or look through the end-pin hole either by eye or with endoscope is best, cheers..
Very true. It's just a starting point. One should look around the post with mirrors/end pin hole/and take out the post a few times to see where the contact points are to shave razor thin adjustments. Thanks for watching!
Great as always! Thank you.
Thanks Miguel. I appreciate it!
Great post!! I subscribed to your channel and am looking forward to more!! Have a Great Day!! Blue Max Stringed Instrument Repair
Thanks :)
would a wood working chisel do the job of the utility knife?
+Alexander Padron It might, considering it's sharp and flat enough. :)
r viola sound post the same size as violins?
Not the same thickness. They are thicker.
sir where i possible to buy that tool
I just added it to the about section above. Thanks
Inserter Remover Tool: fiddlershop.com/sound-post-inserter-remover.html
Sound Post Adjuster: fiddlershop.com/sound-post-adjuster.html
Sound Post sticks: fiddlershop.com/sound-post-stick.html
That's a beautiful wood on the violin back.
I agree. :) Thanks
Good video, just few remarks.
Soundpost diameter should be 5-6 mm, no more. Your soundpost seems to be very thick. Thick soundpost make sound muffled and not very bright. Thin soundpost makes sound too much metalic with too much trebles and thin soundpost may damage plates so it is important to have correct diameter.
Long soundpost damages plates as well. Short soundpost can fall inside instrument.
Setting soundpost with the tool is very delicate operation and you never want to touch f holes with soundpost setter. Damages to the f hole like pressed or chiped wood is very ugly and hard to reapair.
Good video. Thanks!
Thanks Prince Michael Cypret.
thank you. you are the best
Thanks Jasna, I appreciate the kind words!
Awesome video! Thank you
Wow ! THANK YOU !
You are very welcome!!
Thanks! Very clear.
You are very welcome. Did you try it?
@@1stfiddlerman Yes. I got a different chin rest and shoulder rest and tried to find the most relaxed and comfortable positions. Finally in frustration I just grabbed my fiddle and began to play through the pain and problems with abandon. That's when I "found myself". I love the violin and don't care if it hurts. Little by little I will get used to it. Meanwhile I have leapt forward it my general ability and sound. Thank you for your inspiring video.
@@michaelriley9884 - Hopefully you can find a way to play that won't be hurtful. Look at some of the chinrest comforters and have a look at shoulder rest options that might fit your body a bit better. The Stradpad is super comfortable IMAO.
@@1stfiddlerman Yes. Now I am not using a shoulder rest and just letting myself get into the music and my body find it's own way around any discomfort. It's seems slow, but my ability to find and create the notes and sound I want comes quickly. I am thankful for that. Besides, I don't really notice the pain as long as I am enthralled.
@@michaelriley9884 Great.. I hope that you get to the point that there is no discomfort. Just try one more thing. With consciousness, don't really hold the violin, just let it be there and focus on only using your left hand fingers to finger the strings, and your right arm to bow. No effort on holding. Just give it a super conscious focus to see if you are able.
Glad to hear that things are getting better for you. Also, baby steps forward is all a person can ask for. Sooner or later that will be great, or at the very least, better. :)
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Any time!
Thnx dood! This was really helpful!
:) Glad you found it helpful. Even easier is putting the soundpost in with this soundpost remover and setter:
fiddlershop.com/sound-post-inserter-remover.html I made this video quite a while ago but never uploaded it. Had planned on redoing it but never did so just went ahead and uploaded it anyway. :)
very good info thank you.
You are very welcome.
im close to 4 mins in the video.. question before i froget, can this be done by taping a small piece of sandpaper in the place that you test the angle and rub the post on it? wouldn't it be perfect? just like the bridge's feet?
Franco Buzzetti It would be roundish and wouldn't be completely straight. There is no way to hold it perfect when sanding. The cut needs to be 100% straight. If it's slightly rounded it won't fit perfectly.
Great tutorial ! Alisha
Thanks Alisha. :)
Thanks for the video!
Could you do a detailed, close up video of only putting the soundpost in? It seems impossible, and in 35 years of playing, no one has taught me. Frustrating. :)
+William Wolcott I am planning on it. I even ordered a micro camera to try to make a video of the inside while doing it. :)
That's awesome! Thank you!!
Thanks very helpful.
You're welcome.
Thanks for the help .
Great video
Thanks Kevin. Coming from you, that means a lot. :)
un gran favor se podrian hacer los videos en español por favor. gracias
fiddler please i want to buy aviolin from you but i'm in egypt please help me to get aone
+Ahmed Ismael Did you try to purchase one on Fiddlershop.com? We ship internationally.
+Fiddlerman but you don't provides Paiement when recieving like souq.com site because i don't have visa card
+Ahmed Ismael please man i hope to buy from you because the violin in egypt very very bad
+Ahmed Ismael You can use paypal or amazon payment. You can also do wire transfers.
Thx Fiddlerman.
Why I’m even watching this..., fascinating nevertheless, true master....
Thanks. 😁
Good stuff.
Thanks so much Chip!
Excellent!
Thanks :)
It was most important that you showed how to dress the soundpost ends taking into account the end grain and marking the post accordingly.
Thanks Paul. I'm glad you found that beneficial. Thanks for watching.
Nice one fiddler man :-)
Thanks arstor1 :)
In AC Moore (it's a craft store), they sell wooden dowels of various thickness and lengths. Would I be able to use those dowels? I frequently get 55% off coupons from AC Moore. :)
You need the right size. 6.2 mm approximately and hopefully with over 5 grains. 7 or more is good.
Spruce tree.
craft store dowels are usually maple or birch, both are hardwoods, much denser than spruce. Spruce is the correct material due to it's high strength-to-weight ratio.
Very usefull! Thanks!
You're welcome :)
Beautiful violin, do you remember who the maker was?
+Carl Wilbur Honestly, no. LOL
+Fiddlerman +Carl Wilbur Paused it at one point where you could see the label... it looked like the label said it was a GCV :)
+The Quest of the Fiddling Violin thank you so much!
+Carl Wilbur Not a problem :)
Have you ever lost/dropped a sound post inside the body of the violin?
Happens all the time. However, they don't disappear from inside of the instrument. You turn it upside down, allow it to roll to the f-hole and pry it out carefully.
Fiddlerman So, its not a black hole where it vanishes to another dimension. Got it. Thanks!
Exactly. LOL
There are many other mysteries with the violin though. ;)
Fiddlerman do u drink beer or liqour asking beacuse of the bottle.in the backround
LOL, I definitely do but I would never drink that stuff. Not a big drinker either. Beer and wine mainly. Everclear (pure grain alcohol 190 proof) is actually great to mix with dyes for coloring, touchup..... etc. It softens the varnish. It's better than Denatured alcoho since there are no additivesl. Good for cleaning off rosin too but be careful, it'll ruin your varnish quickly.
Oh ok thanks sorry for thinking that
Angel Vas
ROFL, not a problem, it didn't bother me at all. I've heard that that stuff can kill you though. I'd rather not test it.
Yea tru I know a guy who almost died.in a accident for drinking
I know alot of people who died in a accident because of drinking. Thats where the term "dont drink and drive" comes from
Putting a soundpost in for a violin is like being a dentist with all the tools lol
Perhaps. Not sure whether to advise it or now. Many have told me that they successfully learn how to put in and remove sound-posts after my video. Thanks for watching!
your da best
Thanks!
you have email, need to send some pictures of my violin. to assess it
+Alexandre Duo I'll check :)
I'd probably put it in backwards and start playing in a new key. Great info but i'm a luthier clutz folks like me are better to leave it to the pros.
I just got one from the music teacher today at school
+Amy Lowman What did you get? A soundpost setter?
Why not just sand an angle into the tip of the post? Would take maybe 10 seconds.
It's almost impossible to sand a perfectly straight surface without rounding. Also, the sanding creates a rougher surface unless you sand many grades of paper to micro mesh or close.
@@1stfiddlerman I see. I tried this for the first time last night. Experience would pay off with this one. It was not fun. :)
@@jwandhistools Maybe have a few extra sticks ready. :) Thanks for watching. Check this one out as well: ruclips.net/video/XoX11EAzGX0/видео.html
Hi. Someone put a new sound post. But the sound is not as it just to be. It is not even.
I would never adjust the sound post without having the bridge in position.
It's necessary to make a first soundpost, also, posts become too short when the top rises and need to be replaced. But for sound, you can play an instrument and adjust the post as you wrote.
Thanks for the video first of all. I clamp and glue but, even bend and rehair bows but would not dare to touch the soul ,-). But it´s a very good video, but why would sanding be not good? Sanding a bridge works well, why not sanding a sound post in place?
Sanding is shunned upon by many luthiers and makers for making perfectly straight surfaces and it also heats the material. I personally am not convinced that the heating is bad but this is what many say.
A flat file is preferred over sandpaper because they are flat and they cut rather than sand. Our luthiers only use knifes when cutting their sound posts. They don't use sandpaper on the bridge either. They use planes, scrapers, and files. For the perfection of the feet, they use carbon paper to find the high pressure spots.
@@1stfiddlerman using carbon paper to find the pressure points sounds exactly like a dentist tidying up a filling
@@deadmanswife3625 Are you a dentist? Yes, it's the same principle. 😁
@@1stfiddlerman well no Fiddler man I'm not a dentist but my dentist retired many years ago and if I have to I'm going to pull one of mine out by my dang self.
By the time I left home at age 16 I had a lot of neglect.
In a way it was kind of military so we just showed up to have a check on our habits. So we sort of just brushed the front ones to pass inspection.
Lol
Later
As I was now taking responsibility for keeping myself alive my dentist saw me through a long time and made it so I could actually eat food. So I kind of had a lot of familiarity with the subject and he was the best.
(Like you and yours are the best)
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Mine fell off, i now use the violin as a "stunt violin" for music videos
It's easy enough to put back up or replace if you want.
wow, he just did this in 10 minutes??
I know, it was slow. That is because I wanted to demonstrate how to do it...:)
its meant to be a compliment, it was not slow, it's fast. =) If I were to do all these, it might take me an hour.
Our head luthier can do it in less than 60 seconds. The only thing is that to make the best post, he'll make it and test it and go back and forth till it's 100% perfect. :)
No, that can not be right. The shapes outside don’t match the inside. Think about. It is inverted. Sorry.
Of course. However, this is a great starting point. The angles are extremely close. What differs is the graduation which usually doesn't change drastically. You of course must reverse the post when checking as I did. After cutting the post, one must put it in and check the fit. A great way to check the fit is by looking through the end button hole. Also using dental mirrors.
Fiddlerman thank you! I have just found him ruclips.net/video/I1v2smll02E/видео.html
@@Qwerty8 I guess if I explain everything the video would be much longer. LOL. Good luck with your attempts. Research is great.
I have just started fixing my violin... wood always is a challenge for a toolmaker 😂
@@Qwerty8 I bet. We have 8 luthiers at Fiddlershop and they sharpen their knives every single day, sometimes several times a day. We have great stones and diamonds as well as a Tormek, and more just for that sole purpose. It makes a huge difference.
Angles are not the same inside and out side of the instrument. Bad technique and advice man...
It's a starting point. The angles are very close. Plate graduations are very slight in the 6-7 mm radius of that post. There is obviously much more to it, but my experience shows that it's a good place to start. After that you can shave paper thin slivers from the high spots. I'm sorry you don't like my advice but this video is not intended for a professional, or a luthier.