Had the same problem with a mdl M crawler in 1976---same engine --it's moved with me from Mich to Wyo to Alaska it will still work everyday if you want it to .Fantastic engines. You're doing good but you need something better than Chinese shc 40 galv water pipe and epoxy. It will not last long term .Had a machine shop make a press fit tube out of seamless tubing --Still working 48 yrs later..Norm Mienert ( old Allis News ) sells lots of parts for these including a stainless exh tube kit with gaskets I have always wanted a UC Good luck
Did this machine start on gasoline and switch to kerosene once it gets warmed up ? That is what it tells me because the kerosene needs to stay at a higher temperature!
Did you take apart the carb ? If not, you might have knocked loose some stuff that needs to be cleaned out because it is now preventing the engine from running !
You can get new UC manifolds ,riser tube , all gaskets from Mark and Rosie Johnson pfouts ,Hiram they have all the AC parts you need, and you can change the rings with out splitting the tractor.
Well here I go again UCs are quite rare I've been traveling to shows for 50+ yrs and I've maybe seen 3 of them They're not like F20s or WCs that are everywhere My point is that they are worth a little extra effort I think you can get the pan off without splitting the tractor The front end may have to come off .First check the compression Then bust out the center of a sparkplug and weld in an air fitting roll each cylinder over untill the valves are closed place the trans in high hold the brakes or wheel chock it Apply compressed air 50 lbs or so and see where the air is going I question where all that oil is coming from all they get from the bottom end is whatever splash the rods throw upward You might have something else going on Later models and M crawlers had oil pans with starters your flywheel might have a ring gear already you can check through the timing mark cover on the mag side 3/4 of the way up at the flywheel end They made a lot of Ms with these I would give you one if I wasn't so far away These can produce a lot of power if you plane the head 1/8 of an inch and turn the governor up to 1500 you'llbe north of 50 hp Then no F30 will ever out pull you Wish I could be there to help
Soak the cylinders down with chemtool b 12 to free up the stuck piston rings you will have to replace the engine oil again I have saved many engines in tractors and boats that way
They Designed the manifold to preheat the intake charge of tractor fuel ie kerosene which varied a lot in quality in 1936 The compression also had to be low about 4.5 to 1 in order to successfully burn kero and not dillute the motor oil too fast That pipe is bathed in constant 1800 f + degree fire The jb weld will go out the stack in a hurry .The rectangle cover that the stack elbow bolts onto should be marked G and K install it with the G at the top Otherwise the exhaust makes a second pass around the bottom of the pipe
@carolinemcnabb9957 I can get the tractor to only run when I pull it with a machine. If I have the K at the bottom would that cause the exhaust gas to heat up the fuel before it reaches the cylinder? Or should I try to run the tractor on kerosene. Thanks
old bolts it's not uncommon 2 find them like that at all 😮😮 U have 2 heat until they are cherry 🍒 😊 2 get them out then replace all of the old bolts W new bolts U can get what U need at the hardware store 🏬 😊and U can get copper coat gasket marker 4 the exhaust U have 2 get that at the parts store 🏬 😊 OMG 8 26 2O24
You win some and you lose some! Them old old tractors are a beast of their own….
@MrTGleaner Were going to get back to it. I try not to let it get the best of me.
I love this '35! What a beautiful machine. So glad I found the channel.
@@christianmccollum1028 Thanks for the reply! I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
Excellent video as always, thank you for posting.
@@BrianHunter-ni1pn Thank you for watching!
Had the same problem with a mdl M crawler in 1976---same engine --it's moved with me from Mich to Wyo to Alaska it will still work everyday if you want it to .Fantastic engines. You're doing good but you need something better than Chinese shc 40 galv water pipe and epoxy. It will not last long term .Had a machine shop make a press fit tube out of seamless tubing --Still working 48 yrs later..Norm Mienert ( old Allis News ) sells lots of parts for these including a stainless exh tube kit with gaskets I have always wanted a UC Good luck
Did this machine start on gasoline and switch to kerosene once it gets warmed up ? That is what it tells me because the kerosene needs to stay at a higher temperature!
Did you take apart the carb ? If not, you might have knocked loose some stuff that needs to be cleaned out because it is now preventing the engine from running !
@@raysymonds7147 just rebuilt the carb on it.
You can get new UC manifolds ,riser tube , all gaskets from Mark and Rosie Johnson pfouts ,Hiram they have all the AC parts you need, and you can change the rings with out splitting the tractor.
Well here I go again UCs are quite rare I've been traveling to shows for 50+ yrs and I've maybe seen 3 of them They're not like F20s or WCs that are everywhere My point is that they are worth a little extra effort I think you can get the pan off without splitting the tractor The front end may have to come off .First check the compression Then bust out the center of a sparkplug and weld in an air fitting roll each cylinder over untill the valves are closed place the trans in high hold the brakes or wheel chock it Apply compressed air 50 lbs or so and see where the air is going I question where all that oil is coming from all they get from the bottom end is whatever splash the rods throw upward You might have something else going on Later models and M crawlers had oil pans with starters your flywheel might have a ring gear already you can check through the timing mark cover on the mag side 3/4 of the way up at the flywheel end They made a lot of Ms with these I would give you one if I wasn't so far away These can produce a lot of power if you plane the head 1/8 of an inch and turn the governor up to 1500 you'llbe north of 50 hp Then no F30 will ever out pull you Wish I could be there to help
Soak the cylinders down with chemtool b 12 to free up the stuck piston rings you will have to replace the engine oil again I have saved many engines in tractors and boats that way
You should be able to remove the bottom cover to remove the rod bolts; I did that with my M crawler with the same engine
damn why not change the oil filter
They Designed the manifold to preheat the intake charge of tractor fuel ie kerosene which varied a lot in quality in 1936 The compression also had to be low about 4.5 to 1 in order to successfully burn kero and not dillute the motor oil too fast That pipe is bathed in constant 1800 f + degree fire The jb weld will go out the stack in a hurry .The rectangle cover that the stack elbow bolts onto should be marked G and K install it with the G at the top Otherwise the exhaust makes a second pass around the bottom of the pipe
@carolinemcnabb9957 I can get the tractor to only run when I pull it with a machine. If I have the K at the bottom would that cause the exhaust gas to heat up the fuel before it reaches the cylinder? Or should I try to run the tractor on kerosene. Thanks
old bolts it's not uncommon 2 find them like that at all 😮😮 U have 2 heat until they are cherry 🍒 😊 2 get them out then replace all of the old bolts W new bolts U can get what U need at the hardware store 🏬 😊and U can get copper coat gasket marker 4 the exhaust U have 2 get that at the parts store 🏬 😊 OMG 8 26 2O24
The tube acts like a preheater
Did u put new spark plugs in fuleline
Earlier in the video you said the firing order was 1,3,4,2. Now at the end you said it was 1,2,4,3. It ran, albeit now good with an order of 1,3,4,2.