Hey Martin, Great video - as always. Just one addition to the circuit. If you have a number of these lit cars running and switch on your layout all capacitors want to charge with the highest possible power available. Your digital system will see this as a short circuit and will turn of power straight away. To prevent this you have to put in a charging resistor to limit the power consumed while charging the capacitor. This resistor is put between the positive pole of the rectifier to the capacitor. Usually a 100 Ohm resistor is enough. Cheers, Klaus
Hello, when you glue some passengers with fastsetglue, do not close the car immediatly. If you do, some emanations from the glue will change the color of the plastic windows... (that becomes yellow ...personnal experience...) let the car open a night and that will be OK. Thank you for your beatutiful tutorials ! Regards Pascal
Pascal Keller True, also my experience. I found that glue, used for foto’s works just as well to glue passengers in the cars. And it is easier to remove the glue if you want to change it later on.
If you have such emanations from glue you can try to put some glossy garnish on them (thin layer). It can help. You can check with just water, if it would help (putting some water on that window should help for a moment - if it does, than gloss garnish will also help - permanently).
Another product is Museum Wax, which is used by museums to secure items. Hearst Castle uses that, being in the middle of California and its earthquakes.
If you use the Noch "Hin und Weg-Kleber" you can move the passengers around, and it is also strong enough to keep the light strip in place. The benefit is that you can remove everything and no permanent damage is done to the coach.
6 месяцев назад+3
Very nice video, thanks. One comment though: @3:19 and @4:39 the power pick-up spring IMHO should be placed in between the axle and the boogie, rather than under the axle as it is shown here. You remove simply one of the wheels, then insert the pick up spiring and then you refit the wheels. Thus the wheels keep the spring in position. You do not need any glue.
Great tutorial Martin!! Could you please tell me what is the model number for the pick-up shoe which is not shown in the video? Do I need only one spring and pick-up shoe for the entire passenger cars? With the couplings the positive is fed to all other passenger cars and on each passenger car would I need to mount a spring, bridge rectifier, capacitor, resistors and led strips? Could you please give details on the bridge rectifier which is required? Million Thanks!
Really good looking. Perhaps winding the wire routed underneath the wheels into a tight coils like old telephone cords would resolve the problem of slack in the wires and still allow trucks to move freely.
Hello Martin and keep going. Would you put a link for the small preassembled red led for the tail lights? And please keep an eye for 2 rails fans too....
Can I get info on the magnetic coupling from Hogg? I would like to see if i can find it in the US. Great channel thank you. will you do one on battery power and dead rail one day?
With a cheap Functional-Decoder (TAMS for e.g.) there's no need to use resistors to reduce brightness, just programm it. And it'd be switchable. Also the rear-lights could follow the direction and turn automatically off while driving backwards.
Hello Martin, I don't like your solution. If you have 40 cars like this you'll have a big short-circuit on startup, because all elkos are empty. To avoid this problem you have to connect one pole of the capacitor through a resistor in parallel with a diode... Greetings, A
Brilliant! This could not have come at a better time as I was trying to find a way to light some Passenger car kits I am finishing up.... I’d like to say thank you very much! I have followed your instructions and have perfectly lit/zero flicker cars! I love your videos, can’t to see what’s next! Best regards from Florida, John
What bridge rectifier did you use?I haven’t seen anything like it. Can you give details to find it? What do you recommend with older stock that does not have NEM pockets?
Hi! There are lots of rectifiers like this one. Here’s one example: www.elfa.se/en/glass-passivated-bridge-rectifier-smd-1a-200v-dfs-vishay-df02s-e3-77/p/30152181?ext_cid=shgooaqsesv-Shopping-PerformanceMax-CSS&&cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=18208288444&cq_con=&cq_term=&cq_med=pla&cq_plac=&cq_net=x&cq_pos=&cq_plt=gp&gclsrc=aw.ds&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuJqR9Yyo-wIVEeuyCh2niAqgEAQYASABEgJNlvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Super was es heute zu Tage für Möglichkeiten von den Herstellern gibt das hatte ich in den 70er 80er nicht, naja das ist halt der Fortschritt 👍 ich benutze auch immer Sekundenkleber um die LEDs zu befestigen denn der tape löst sich nach einiger Zeit.
Why trouble yourself with a bridge rectifier? Since we´re digital it´s DC not AC. All you need is a 100- 150 ohm resistor (see Klaus below) after a diod. Smaller, easier to assemble.
Martin, thank you for this. I have rewatched this multiple times in recent months, and this inspired a coach lighting project of my own (modern European 2-rail, mostly Roco). Question....how did you determine the 10K Ohm as the resistor value? I know the basic formula for resistance, but what are the values?? I assume Marklin MFX puts the same voltage on the rails as other DCC systems (28 volts) and a warm white LED is rated at 0.0025 Amps (I think)....correct? I'm currently trying 12-20V DC, and with a 4.7K ohm resistor, the light seems too dim (and only really seen in complete darkness). Another question, how do you get the capacitor to keep the lights on for 10-12 seconds? I'm using 1000 or 2200 mF 25V capacitors, and the lights gradually die off over 5-7 seconds. Logically, they should stay on for longer than yours. Is there a specific to wire them into the circuit? Have been greatly enjoying your videos over the course of the pandemic! Looking forward to becoming a Patreon soon!! :)
Looks great. Instead of a CA glue could you have used a tacky glue to glue the passengers? Then you could move them around occasionally to change the look.
I never use leds this big in coaches, theyre the equivalent of being 3 feet long, i use 0604 SMT leds on a piece of circuitboard, i know people say" well you cant see the leds" but its the light they give off, its way too spread and will light the track up and thats not realistic.
The LED intensity is controllled by resitors. The spread can be controlled by paper inserts. The theme for the video is ”easy and low cost”. I can think of a million ways to do this more expensive and complicated, but that was not the purpose with this presentation.
Bonsoir Martin . Je ne comprends pas pourquoi vous mettez deux résistances de 10 K ? Une seule de 20 K suffirait ? Non ? Merci pour votre réponse . Good evening Martin. I don't understand why you put two 10 K resistors? A single 20 K would be enough? No ? Thank you for your reply .
Hi. Thanks for great video! I’ll start doing all my wagons. My question, to reduce inrush current, do I need to add 100 Ohm resistor between input of bridge and ground wire? Or, between + side of bridge and capacitor? Which is better? Can you help? Regards.
What is the difference between the Mârklin 72020 coupler and the one you are using in the videos? The reason I am asking is that my usual supplier seem to only carry the 72020 Coupler. Great and very informative video by the way.
Hi Martin! Nice video, thanks. Just a little suggestion: instead of glueing the copper springs to take the current under the bogie, why not first take the wheels of, then place the springs without glueing and put the wheels back? That's what I do on all my (2 rails DCC) cars and it works perfect. Since I don't have Marklin rolling stock, I use generic metal springs I buy on eBay, but the principle is the same I guess.
If you have a passenger train with current conducting couplers and a common pick up shoe, do you need the electronics (capacitor and rectifier) for each car, or will one be sufficient for the entire train?
HELLO MY FRIEND... HAPPY FATHER'S DAY TO YOU... GREAT VIDEO AND TUTORIAL...THANK YOU FOR YOUR EXPERTISE.... MAY YOU HAVE A WONDERFUL TIME WITH YOUR FAMILY... BOB COONEY
This is great and covers some details I had wondered about when I did my first carriages. I agree on reducing the wire thickness and its good to hear which LEDs and resistors you used, as well as the coupling systems. The finishing touch on the taillamps was perfect. Thanks
Good video! I found a similar recipe for lighting a few years ago on the internet. I use double-sided foam tape between the LED light strip and the roof because the LED light strip can generate some heat => i don't want the roof plastic to melt or get soft if it gets hot.
Hi, you can put the ground contact under the wheels. With this method, there is no glue. It's more practical when u need to change the wheels or the contacts.
@@marklinofsweden You should put that cable into the car, put (through the toilet) up under the roof and have no cables under the car. The same for cable from buggy contact. That way you will not block the movement of buggy at all. With your solution the movement can be limited.
This is a great tutorial! Makes me want to get some coaches solely for the purpose of lighting them!
3 года назад+3
Cool. One thing one might consider as an improvement is to control the LEDs with a microcontroller and use PWM instead of resistors. This will reduce power consumption and increase the time car lights survive an outage. It would also enable the ability to use blinking taillights. Adding an ambient light detector or even a decoder would make it even more fun.
The circuit as described will draw less than 1 ma once the capacitor is charged. It hardly seems that it is any real advantage to use more sophisticated electronics to improve efficiency. It might be an improvement to add a 100 to 500 ohm resistor before the capacitor to reduce the inrush current when power is turned on.
Hello, what kind of bridge rectifier do you use? I am trying to make a white/red lights on my Roco commuter control cab coach. I have 12V LED diodes, 3 white, 2 red. I am going to swich between the lights via a dumb three-position switch. I know it's a bit rudimentary, but I keep it simple. I use digital.
Hello Martin. Love this video. Watched it several times as I try adding lighting effects. Question please; how can you add electrical couplers to a Marklin 4167 coach. Many of coaches like this one have an unusual coupler fitted the I’m having problems finding a coupler to replace it with. Can you please help. Thanks.
Excellent tutorial! I am curious how you handle multiple coaches with one pickup shoe and ground spring- just run the 2 pole connection from car to car, or does the actual circuit need to change for the increase in overall LEDs?
4:30 you should infact install the contact spring "fingers" under the wheelaxles, not above them (seen from bottomview perspective) and then you don't need glue at all, because it will keep the spring in place by the wheelaxles pressing to the bottom of the bogie.
It would be great to see how to fit a relay and use the DCC function output to turn the lights on or off. But abso;utely great video. Greetings from South Africa!!
Thank you for ths good viedeo. It is very informative. According to the LED strip it is recommended to clean the inside of the roof with ethanol. With this preparation the self adhesive strip well adheres to the roof without additional glue.
Thanks for the effort, but this system is not easy for everyone, you have to have some experience. Not cheap, and that's what all brands use. the real innovation would be a system with internal power supply with mini batteries.
He Dave... you are using DC!? But what happens, if you change direction!? Are you really use DC? Or DCC... with is not DC at all! Forget about AC and DC. Thing about 2 and 3 conductors... and therefore the only difference ist the way who to contact the 2 poles. Greetings
This actually works! I've used this method to add interior lighting to a couple of caboose on my layout. I used 2 3v nano LED's with a 420 ohm resistor on each LED. Works like a charm. I don't have any issues powering up the layout as some suggested might happen either without an additional resistor on the capacitor. The hardest part was getting my Trueline Caboose apart and back together again. Thanks for posting the video brother. 👍
Hi Marklin. I've recently gotten in to model building and painting with a strong focus (currently) on Star Wars models. I'm a recent subscriber and your videos are so fun to watch and learn from and that's predominantly because of your infectious energy, your presentation, and obvious love for the medium. I'm about to start designing my first (small) diorama for an AT-ST walker that I built, painted, and weathered recently and will be using techniques from your videos to help develop the project. Thanks for being a little source of happiness and positive energy in these strange and crazy pandemic times. :-)
Fredrick, I have the same question! I have tried searching for them everywhere! I want to use them in a car diorama so I can have a removable roof with the lights still installed.
Sehr schönes Video was du hier gezeigt hast, hat mir sehr gut gefallen. Meine Wagons muss ich auch noch alle mit Licht versorgen. Was ich bei deiner Umsetzung nicht so gut finde, das die Wagons immer leuchten. Aber so ist es natürlich die schnellste und günstigste Variante die absolut super ist. LG Tino
Yes! It works for analog layouts too. No 25VDC is ok, even though a bit on the low end.. Going up in voltage adds too much size, so it doesn’t work so well.
Es ist eine Schade, dass die meisten Eisenbahn-Videos in deutscher Sprache sind und Marklin , Roco und Fleischmann sich nicht darum kümmert. Mach mal...
Those cars look great. I will have to see if I can find a way to do that with my Walther's Classic Heavyweights set. They already have the contacts installed and light kits that can be bought but I'm not impressed with those, only thing is the roof is what is removable from the car before the interiors so having to find a way to suspend them might be tricky. If you have thoughts on that, let me know please!
Nice. The more expensive LED strips have 3M tape on the back. I have used these in many many Jewelry displays over the years, NEVER had any come loose. It is important to clean the surface with Alcohol or the likes to clean off the grease. I generally mount them on Aluminium Flat bar, usually 10mm wide by 1.5mm thick. for commercial applications, for cooling.
Hi Martin, Thanks for your great tutorials. Helps me advance quick in this hobby. After ordering (and waiting for delivery) the components, I already equiped two cars with interior lights. Works perfect! Kind regards, Maurits
Thanks, a heap for the tutorial; it was very useful. I have a question. I have a roll of 24v LEDs. Can these be used in the same way? Or should there be a change made to the circuitry? 😄ruclips.net/user/sgaming/emoji/7ff574f2/emoji_u1f603.png
Hi Martin, great video. For a set of coaches, must all the coaches have the marklin 72050 and I assume the current from the pick-up shoe goes through the current conducting couplers. So if I have 6 coaches = 1 x pick-up shoe and 6 x 72050 and 5 x E115737 couplings
Hi! No. The LEDs are powered through 2x 10kOhm resistors, so the total power is extremly limited. Actually.. 0.1mA or 0,012 Watts.. So.. No heat whatsoever.
Two notes: the choice of the colors of the cables is not so happy, brown and black are difficult to distinguish. If you use superglue, it has to outgas first. If I use superglue in a passenger car and then put the case on, the gases from the glue make the window glass opaque and almost white. my own experience.
Excellent as usual Martin.1/2 a drop of glue for the LED strips, and 1/4 drop for the micro LEDs... How on earth do you get a quarter of a drop... ;) You are a natural Martin. Cheers.
I have some capacitors but they are 25V and 100 micro farad. Would that work ? And could you give me all the info for the bridge rectifier? It was a really good video.
Hi Martin , Great video! Ik wched IT serval Times , what i don't onderstand: what do you need to fit in the other cars when using the power guiding kopplings? Does every car need the electronic componants such as the bridge rectifior and the cappasatator? Best regards Ed 🇳🇱
Hello I still have questions because I don't understand English well. What a bridge rectifier, what kind of resistors are needed, thanks for an answer. Greetings Jürg
Hey Martin,
Great video - as always. Just one addition to the circuit.
If you have a number of these lit cars running and switch on your layout all capacitors want to charge with the highest possible power available. Your digital system will see this as a short circuit and will turn of power straight away. To prevent this you have to put in a charging resistor to limit the power consumed while charging the capacitor. This resistor is put between the positive pole of the rectifier to the capacitor. Usually a 100 Ohm resistor is enough.
Cheers,
Klaus
Would you need a special type of resistor? Also, is there a diagram of this wiring somewhere? I'm new to this. Thanks.
Hello, when you glue some passengers with fastsetglue, do not close the car immediatly. If you do, some emanations from the glue will change the color of the plastic windows... (that becomes yellow ...personnal experience...) let the car open a night and that will be OK. Thank you for your beatutiful tutorials ! Regards Pascal
Pascal Keller True, also my experience. I found that glue, used for foto’s works just as well to glue passengers in the cars. And it is easier to remove the glue if you want to change it later on.
Good tip, thank you.👌👍
@@eentoffenaam Another good tip, thank you too.👍👌
If you have such emanations from glue you can try to put some glossy garnish on them (thin layer). It can help. You can check with just water, if it would help (putting some water on that window should help for a moment - if it does, than gloss garnish will also help - permanently).
Another product is Museum Wax, which is used by museums to secure items. Hearst Castle uses that, being in the middle of California and its earthquakes.
If you use the Noch "Hin und Weg-Kleber" you can move the passengers around, and it is also strong enough to keep the light strip in place. The benefit is that you can remove everything and no permanent damage is done to the coach.
Very nice video, thanks. One comment though: @3:19 and @4:39 the power pick-up spring IMHO should be placed in between the axle and the boogie, rather than under the axle as it is shown here. You remove simply one of the wheels, then insert the pick up spiring and then you refit the wheels. Thus the wheels keep the spring in position. You do not need any glue.
12:00 The cars are empty, yes... because of lockdown.
Thank you Johan! You saved me a lot of money and time. Now my empty seats in my cars are realistic because of vid. I like. Jajajaja
Your welcome.
Great tutorial Martin!! Could you please tell me what is the model number for the pick-up shoe which is not shown in the video? Do I need only one spring and pick-up shoe for the entire passenger cars? With the couplings the positive is fed to all other passenger cars and on each passenger car would I need to mount a spring, bridge rectifier, capacitor, resistors and led strips? Could you please give details on the bridge rectifier which is required? Million Thanks!
awesome, thanks for sharing martin, i always enjoy watching your video, always inspire me, for my content
Really good looking. Perhaps winding the wire routed underneath the wheels into a tight coils like old telephone cords would resolve the problem of slack in the wires and still allow trucks to move freely.
I want 3 wagons with light, every wagon needs a bridge rectifier and capacitor or just 1 wagon? regards
Every wagon.
Hello Martin and keep going.
Would you put a link for the small preassembled red led for the tail lights?
And please keep an eye for 2 rails fans too....
Can I get info on the magnetic coupling from Hogg? I would like to see if i can find it in the US. Great channel thank you. will you do one on battery power and dead rail one day?
With a cheap Functional-Decoder (TAMS for e.g.) there's no need to use resistors to reduce brightness, just programm it. And it'd be switchable. Also the rear-lights could follow the direction and turn automatically off while driving backwards.
Thank you for also showing how to do it on 2 rail systems!
One of the most entertaining youtubers I have ever seen. So jolly , and incredibly talented. Love your videos Martin, keep up your wonderful work.
Your voice is so relaxing i fell asleep. had to watch again
LOL XD
😆😆😆😆😆👍
That happened to me too.. 🤗
Hello Martin,
I don't like your solution. If you have 40 cars like this you'll have a big short-circuit on startup, because all elkos are empty.
To avoid this problem you have to connect one pole of the capacitor through a resistor in parallel with a diode...
Greetings, A
Hello Martin, the video is really great. I'm considering whether I should do the same for a few cars, especially Roco cars that I own.
Yet another great tutorial, saving this one for reference!
I'd really like more information about those Hogg couplers. I'm not able to find anything out about them with just a search.
Brilliant! This could not have come at a better time as I was trying to find a way to light some Passenger car kits I am finishing up.... I’d like to say thank you very much! I have followed your instructions and have perfectly lit/zero flicker cars! I love your videos, can’t to see what’s next! Best regards from Florida, John
What bridge rectifier did you use?I haven’t seen anything like it. Can you give details to find it? What do you recommend with older stock that does not have NEM pockets?
Hi! There are lots of rectifiers like this one. Here’s one example: www.elfa.se/en/glass-passivated-bridge-rectifier-smd-1a-200v-dfs-vishay-df02s-e3-77/p/30152181?ext_cid=shgooaqsesv-Shopping-PerformanceMax-CSS&&cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=18208288444&cq_con=&cq_term=&cq_med=pla&cq_plac=&cq_net=x&cq_pos=&cq_plt=gp&gclsrc=aw.ds&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuJqR9Yyo-wIVEeuyCh2niAqgEAQYASABEgJNlvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Super was es heute zu Tage für Möglichkeiten von den Herstellern gibt das hatte ich in den 70er 80er nicht, naja das ist halt der Fortschritt 👍 ich benutze auch immer Sekundenkleber um die LEDs zu befestigen denn der tape löst sich nach einiger Zeit.
Why trouble yourself with a bridge rectifier? Since we´re digital it´s DC not AC. All you need is a 100- 150 ohm resistor (see Klaus below) after a diod. Smaller, easier to assemble.
You need a rectifier to keep the capacitor loaded, without a rectifier the lok or other coaches consume the stocked voltage in the capacitor.
Martin, thank you for this. I have rewatched this multiple times in recent months, and this inspired a coach lighting project of my own (modern European 2-rail, mostly Roco). Question....how did you determine the 10K Ohm as the resistor value? I know the basic formula for resistance, but what are the values?? I assume Marklin MFX puts the same voltage on the rails as other DCC systems (28 volts) and a warm white LED is rated at 0.0025 Amps (I think)....correct? I'm currently trying 12-20V DC, and with a 4.7K ohm resistor, the light seems too dim (and only really seen in complete darkness).
Another question, how do you get the capacitor to keep the lights on for 10-12 seconds? I'm using 1000 or 2200 mF 25V capacitors, and the lights gradually die off over 5-7 seconds. Logically, they should stay on for longer than yours. Is there a specific to wire them into the circuit?
Have been greatly enjoying your videos over the course of the pandemic! Looking forward to becoming a Patreon soon!! :)
Hi Martin, thank you for doing this great video. That’s my next job for my layout.
Regards Jonathan
Looks great. Instead of a CA glue could you have used a tacky glue to glue the passengers? Then you could move them around occasionally to change the look.
Once again, a very good tutorial! Thx Martin.
I never use leds this big in coaches, theyre the equivalent of being 3 feet long, i use 0604 SMT leds on a piece of circuitboard, i know people say" well you cant see the leds" but its the light they give off, its way too spread and will light the track up and thats not realistic.
The LED intensity is controllled by resitors. The spread can be controlled by paper inserts. The theme for the video is ”easy and low cost”. I can think of a million ways to do this more expensive and complicated, but that was not the purpose with this presentation.
A really great and interesting video. Thank you
Bonsoir Martin .
Je ne comprends pas pourquoi vous mettez deux résistances de 10 K ?
Une seule de 20 K suffirait ? Non ?
Merci pour votre réponse .
Good evening Martin.
I don't understand why you put two 10 K resistors?
A single 20 K would be enough? No ?
Thank you for your reply .
Hi. Thanks for great video! I’ll start doing all my wagons. My question, to reduce inrush current, do I need to add 100 Ohm resistor between input of bridge and ground wire? Or, between + side of bridge and capacitor? Which is better? Can you help? Regards.
What is the difference between the Mârklin 72020 coupler and the one you are using in the videos? The reason I am asking is that my usual supplier seem to only carry the 72020 Coupler. Great and very informative video by the way.
Hey martin,
Great tutorial again. Great job. Good idea. Mos, you are the best!
Great video again!
I have this set myself so if I ever want to put the ligths in, I know what to do.
Hi Martin! Nice video, thanks. Just a little suggestion: instead of glueing the copper springs to take the current under the bogie, why not first take the wheels of, then place the springs without glueing and put the wheels back? That's what I do on all my (2 rails DCC) cars and it works perfect. Since I don't have Marklin rolling stock, I use generic metal springs I buy on eBay, but the principle is the same I guess.
The way to do it 😁
If you have a passenger train with current conducting couplers and a common pick up shoe, do you need the electronics (capacitor and rectifier) for each car, or will one be sufficient for the entire train?
Nice explanation and wonderful result. Thanks a lot!
HELLO MY FRIEND... HAPPY FATHER'S DAY TO YOU... GREAT VIDEO AND TUTORIAL...THANK YOU FOR YOUR EXPERTISE.... MAY YOU HAVE A WONDERFUL TIME WITH YOUR FAMILY...
BOB COONEY
This is great and covers some details I had wondered about when I did my first carriages. I agree on reducing the wire thickness and its good to hear which LEDs and resistors you used, as well as the coupling systems. The finishing touch on the taillamps was perfect. Thanks
Good video! I found a similar recipe for lighting a few years ago on the internet. I use double-sided foam tape between the LED light strip and the roof because the LED light strip can generate some heat => i don't want the roof plastic to melt or get soft if it gets hot.
Hi, you can put the ground contact under the wheels. With this method, there is no glue. It's more practical when u need to change the wheels or the contacts.
Hi! No, assembling spring contacts under the wheels will restrict movement of the cable coming from the conductive coupling. I can’t recommend that.
@@marklinofsweden You should put that cable into the car, put (through the toilet) up under the roof and have no cables under the car. The same for cable from buggy contact. That way you will not block the movement of buggy at all. With your solution the movement can be limited.
Great video. Please provide LED manufacture and product number.
It varies. On Wish you never get the same item from one purchase to antoher.. mixed China..
Great video. Please can you provide the caracteristics of the bridge rectifier ?
Bridge Rectifier, 600 V, 1 A, RND Components. Distrelec Article Number: 301-13-444. Price: €0.059/ea
@@marklinofsweden thanks a lot from Barcelona
So, thanks for all your vídeos.
May you repeat this video helping DC curent users,
This is a great tutorial! Makes me want to get some coaches solely for the purpose of lighting them!
Cool. One thing one might consider as an improvement is to control the LEDs with a microcontroller and use PWM instead of resistors. This will reduce power consumption and increase the time car lights survive an outage. It would also enable the ability to use blinking taillights.
Adding an ambient light detector or even a decoder would make it even more fun.
The circuit as described will draw less than 1 ma once the capacitor is charged. It hardly seems that it is any real advantage to use more sophisticated electronics to improve efficiency. It might be an improvement to add a 100 to 500 ohm resistor before the capacitor to reduce the inrush current when power is turned on.
Hi, I am new to Marklin and building my layout. What is LED microcontroller and PWM. Can you help me with a link or where to buy. Thanks Christo
Very well done. Even I can understand it. :)
Great video, well explained.
Hello, what kind of bridge rectifier do you use? I am trying to make a white/red lights on my Roco commuter control cab coach. I have 12V LED diodes, 3 white, 2 red. I am going to swich between the lights via a dumb three-position switch. I know it's a bit rudimentary, but I keep it simple. I use digital.
Hello Martin.
Love this video. Watched it several times as I try adding lighting effects. Question please; how can you add electrical couplers to a Marklin 4167 coach. Many of coaches like this one have an unusual coupler fitted the I’m having problems finding a coupler to replace it with. Can you please help. Thanks.
Greetings from the USA 😀, my family came from Sweden in the 1800s, family name was Solberg and Tiderman.
Hello. Interesting and informative, as always.,
Excellent tutorial! I am curious how you handle multiple coaches with one pickup shoe and ground spring- just run the 2 pole connection from car to car, or does the actual circuit need to change for the increase in overall LEDs?
Wow 20kOhms resistance is a lot.
Yepp! That’s the trick for loong lasting flicker-free light.
As always, it is very intelligible and interesting.
4:30 you should infact install the contact spring "fingers" under the wheelaxles, not above them (seen from bottomview perspective) and then you don't need glue at all, because it will keep the spring in place by the wheelaxles pressing to the bottom of the bogie.
Hi! This question has already been answered. No. The placement is an active choise based on experience
Very nice, I'll forward this to my model rail buddies. Märklin could need some simplification in the lighting department!
For sure!
It would be great to see how to fit a relay and use the DCC function output to turn the lights on or off. But abso;utely great video. Greetings from South Africa!!
Thank you for ths good viedeo. It is very informative. According to the LED strip it is recommended to clean the inside of the roof with ethanol. With this preparation the self adhesive strip well adheres to the roof without additional glue.
Thanks for the effort, but this system is not easy for everyone, you have to have some experience. Not cheap, and that's what all brands use. the real innovation would be a system with internal power supply with mini batteries.
Meet information. I noticed that you call for a bridge . Does that mean that you are using AC. But i use DC . Will that make. Any difference?
He Dave... you are using DC!? But what happens, if you change direction!? Are you really use DC? Or DCC... with is not DC at all!
Forget about AC and DC. Thing about 2 and 3 conductors... and therefore the only difference ist the way who to contact the 2 poles.
Greetings
Gi I have a nintrix set 11465 discontinued,and want to light interior of passenger cars,how can I open these cars and light them?
I love this channel, I have learned a lot from it. Very cool
This actually works! I've used this method to add interior lighting to a couple of caboose on my layout. I used 2 3v nano LED's with a 420 ohm resistor on each LED. Works like a charm. I don't have any issues powering up the layout as some suggested might happen either without an additional resistor on the capacitor. The hardest part was getting my Trueline Caboose apart and back together again. Thanks for posting the video brother. 👍
Hi Marklin. I've recently gotten in to model building and painting with a strong focus (currently) on Star Wars models. I'm a recent subscriber and your videos are so fun to watch and learn from and that's predominantly because of your infectious energy, your presentation, and obvious love for the medium. I'm about to start designing my first (small) diorama for an AT-ST walker that I built, painted, and weathered recently and will be using techniques from your videos to help develop the project. Thanks for being a little source of happiness and positive energy in these strange and crazy pandemic times. :-)
Everithyng about your'e chanel Is amazing!!!!!
Are you using this for DCC or DC? Can it be used for American model trains?
Yes, yes and yes!
@@marklinofsweden Thank you, thank you and Thank you.
Way cheaper then Esu lighting..
Saying that esu lighting strips can be programed in many ways
..
I had a go at it and yes the lights work fine. Great video
Muy bueno sus videos, %100 Hobby muy lindo, saludos desde Uruguay
How about doing a tutorial for how to get started with the Marklin model railway?
Do you have a link to the magnetic couplings for the electronics? :)
Fredrick, I have the same question! I have tried searching for them everywhere! I want to use them in a car diorama so I can have a removable roof with the lights still installed.
Sehr schönes Video was du hier gezeigt hast, hat mir sehr gut gefallen. Meine Wagons muss ich auch noch alle mit Licht versorgen. Was ich bei deiner Umsetzung nicht so gut finde, das die Wagons immer leuchten. Aber so ist es natürlich die schnellste und günstigste Variante die absolut super ist. LG Tino
perfect & awesome !!! great job !!!!
I am sorry but I forgot to ask you the caracteristics of the 10kh resistor , 025/ 05/ 1/ 2 / 3 W
thank you !!
Hi! It’s 1/8Watt resistors.
Good stuff, very interesting.
Nice to see and helpfull
Very nice!
FIRST COMMENT
Jupp! Gz! 👍😊
Does this also work for analog layouts? would the "reverse puls" not be higher then what the cap is rated for?
Yes! It works for analog layouts too. No 25VDC is ok, even though a bit on the low end.. Going up in voltage adds too much size, so it doesn’t work so well.
Sehr schöner Film 👌👌
nur schade das es auf Englisch ist.
Gruß Klaus 😊
Es ist eine Schade, dass die meisten Eisenbahn-Videos in deutscher Sprache sind und Marklin , Roco und Fleischmann sich nicht darum kümmert. Mach mal...
Those cars look great. I will have to see if I can find a way to do that with my Walther's Classic Heavyweights set. They already have the contacts installed and light kits that can be bought but I'm not impressed with those, only thing is the roof is what is removable from the car before the interiors so having to find a way to suspend them might be tricky. If you have thoughts on that, let me know please!
Hello, can i use 10kOhm 2watt for the resistors? Thank you. I love all your video’s! Regards from Belgium!
Nice. The more expensive LED strips have 3M tape on the back. I have used these in many many Jewelry displays over the years, NEVER had any come loose. It is important to clean the surface with Alcohol or the likes to clean off the grease. I generally mount them on Aluminium Flat bar, usually 10mm wide by 1.5mm thick. for commercial applications, for cooling.
Hi Martin,
Thanks for your great tutorials. Helps me advance quick in this hobby.
After ordering (and waiting for delivery) the components, I already equiped two cars with interior lights. Works perfect!
Kind regards,
Maurits
Thanks, a heap for the tutorial; it was very useful. I have a question. I have a roll of 24v LEDs. Can these be used in the same way? Or should there be a change made to the circuitry? 😄ruclips.net/user/sgaming/emoji/7ff574f2/emoji_u1f603.png
Hi Martin, great video. For a set of coaches, must all the coaches have the marklin 72050 and I assume the current from the pick-up shoe goes through the current conducting couplers. So if I have 6 coaches = 1 x pick-up shoe and 6 x 72050 and 5 x E115737 couplings
Could you please confirm if those LED strips give off heat, which may eventually damage the plastic of the car roofs?
Hi! No. The LEDs are powered through 2x 10kOhm resistors, so the total power is extremly limited. Actually.. 0.1mA or 0,012 Watts.. So.. No heat whatsoever.
LEDs don't give off heat
Thanks🎂from🇩🇰
Do you have problems with interference with the digital signal? Or stays the digital signal for other trains flawless?
No problems with >40 illuminated cars..
@@marklinofsweden thanks
Can you do a scale model of ANTIFA/BLM destroying your model town?
Two notes: the choice of the colors of the cables is not so happy, brown and black are difficult to distinguish.
If you use superglue, it has to outgas first. If I use superglue in a passenger car and then put the case on, the gases from the glue make the window glass opaque and almost white. my own experience.
Amazing !
Excellent as usual Martin.1/2 a drop of glue for the LED strips, and 1/4 drop for the micro LEDs... How on earth do you get a quarter of a drop... ;) You are a natural Martin. Cheers.
GOOD MAN!!! Using 60/40 solder is the only way to go! Greta Inc. can go take a long walk off a very short pier.
Reliable, yes, Low Cost too (if you're in Europe or USA, imported things like these is a big problem in SouthAmerica) but easy no way; great job tho
I have some capacitors but they are 25V and 100 micro farad. Would that work ? And could you give me all the info for the bridge rectifier? It was a really good video.
Please identify Fleischmann coupling model number at 5:26
Hi Martin ,
Great video!
Ik wched IT serval Times , what i don't onderstand: what do you need to fit in the other cars when using the power guiding kopplings?
Does every car need the electronic componants such as the bridge rectifior and the cappasatator?
Best regards Ed 🇳🇱
Hello I still have questions because I don't understand English well. What a bridge rectifier, what kind of resistors are needed, thanks for an answer. Greetings Jürg