i have had this same code for about a year. have already replaced the whole manifold, and just recently bought and installed the third vacuum line that connects to the solenoid fresh air breather valve. haven't touched the runner position sensor yet, but i fear that if i replace it to no avail i may have to replace the whole manifold again. thanks for the quick rundown!!!
Can you do a video about resetting the throttlebody once you take it off and then put it back in and you have to reset it with the scanner it would be a really big help I’m having trouble with my 2.0 after I took the throttlebody off cleaned it and put it back on it turns on the RPMs go all the way up and then it will just shut off
Guess this will be my next thing I check. My '10 A5 2.0t has a "hesitation" if you try to accelerate normally but if you go ahead and make boost come in it takes right off. You can feel it's wanting to go under light acceleration but something is holding it back, kinda like the vvt isn't working properly. Already changed plugs, coils, & diverter valve so I guess this is my next step
@Finn nope. I never bought the little specialty tool to get the filter out of the vvt. Other than that I don't know what it could of been because I changed pretty much everything else
I’ve had the vacuum actuator arm pop out of manifold. Engine idles like crap because of vacuum leak in the engine. Throws code. I jb welded mine but Ecs now sells a kit
I'm currently having this issue. Took it to the garage and they said I had 2 codes. One for this issue and another for coil pack 2. Light cleared itself, which I thought "Great". So cancel the garage.... less than a week later and on the day it was meant to go into the garage.... that little light makes a return 🤦♂️🤷♂️
Suffered from the dreaded timing chain failure 2 years ago on my A4 B8, cost a fortune to repair here in the UK. The fault code P0016 popped up to my disgust a few weeks ago together with severe misfiring, that caused me to panic and expect the worst. As a last resort i decided to clean the sensors. The cam sensor was clean but the crank sensor magnet was covered in a black sooty material, since cleaning no more fault code and car runs so smooth!! Just thought i would share with you guys.
That’s not normal please update if the code comes back on. There also isn’t really any ferrous metal that should be sticking to the magnetic pickup. Usually if the chain and tensioner are new I look at the camshaft control valve behind the n205 to make sure the spring and retainer are still functioning properly or just replace the reverse thread control valve regardless if looking into that further and from my experience I have never had a bad cam or crank sensor on this engine it’s always something else.
@@NaptownTuner Yes i was amazed it worked, i am by no means a mechanic so it was pure luck. It was just one of those moments when you think you might as well try to see if it works. Do you think it could be metallic fragments from when the car was brand new, or maybe dirty engine oil? I should have made a video of the crap all over it. Ironically my VW Golf Mk6 had same issue, but i only cleaned the soot from the cam sensor, i could not find the crank sensor. The fault code has also disappeared.
@@rizwanhaque9735 the block is cast iron but fragments don’t every typically come off the block but not the pistons or bearings are not magnetic, the baffle for the oil fill can come loose and cause destruction in the engine getting shredded by the camshaft first, that’s magnetic. If running synthetic oil like it calls for you shouldn’t have soot or coking
@@NaptownTuner i have no idea what it was then. It could just be wrong oil used in the past. It was definitely dark in colour. The cam sensor had fresh looking oil in it because i recently changed the oil. I will keep you posted, but hoping the code doesnt come up again. Thanks for replying! I do have one question, i recently changed my PCV valve, i did dismantle the old one and the diaphragm looks perfect. I also did the blow and suck air test which it passed. Do you think it is faulty? I did have a lean code which disappeared after replacing it.
can you take the intake manifold runner arm off the cpma metal intake manifold and replace the faulty caeb one with it or do i need whole new intake manifold ecs tuning has a fix but it wouldnt come in for 2 months
The third hose you pointed out in the video was busted for my 09 gti 2.0TFSI. I fixed this issue but the code is still there, do have any recommendations on what to do next?
I’m getting a “ intake manifold stuck open “ I’ve got a 2008 Audi A5 3.2L and there are no videos on my car only videos like this so would you know any links I could find about this issue also my water pump has a slow leak do you suggest me taking to a garage to have it fixed because I’m not finding videos on the steps to fix that myself as well so I’d highly appreciate it if you could help me out and I’ll subscribe lol!!! Thanks
@ NaptownTuner Hello, I have a 2011 Q5 with 135K on it. Just started getting the turbo underboost engine code. Dealer said the head gasket is also leaking. Regular service up until this point. Only repair was the engine oil consumption recall performed by the dealer around 60K miles. Original timing chain, tensioner, water pump, and alternator. Just replaced the original battery this spring at 130K miles. Should I sell the Q5 as is, fix the turbo and sell, or do maintenance and keep? If keep what should I do? The dealer is too expensive for this age of a car so would need to find a reasonably priced independent mechanic and would use salvage or rebuilt parts. Would love to hear your thoughts.
2012 q5 here. Had same underboost code couple years back, ended up replacing entire turbo for 2k by independent mechanic that specializes in Audis. Dealer was asking for 3.5k. My suggestion is to fix it and keep the car. It’s been a reliable car for me except for broken water pump that was another 1k repair.
Good Morning, where are you located? I am in Glen Burnie MD. I have a 2014 Jetta SE 1.8 that needs repairing. (Intake Runner Position Sensor) Thank you kindly
Can you help me I placed a fully new intake manifold I connected everything but it get fault code p2008 intake manifold circuit/open I erased the fault code it keeps coming back ... ?
Did u somehow figure it out. I did the exact same thing in my passat cc. New intake manifold and after two days same code and loss of boost…(Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit) 😩
I couldn't move what you were moving when you talked about the runner position. I pushed it in and the car sounds so much better. Thank you!
Man I really need this guy to be my mechanic
This guys a life saver the reson I’m keeping my car like this
just found my issue...small hose was disconected. much appreciated.
Naptown you are amazing and have passed your skill, gift, and ability on to Bless your viewership! Thank You!
i have had this same code for about a year. have already replaced the whole manifold, and just recently bought and installed the third vacuum line that connects to the solenoid fresh air breather valve. haven't touched the runner position sensor yet, but i fear that if i replace it to no avail i may have to replace the whole manifold again. thanks for the quick rundown!!!
Меняй машину сразу )))- смотри российских мастеров -все решается без замены коллектора -удачи
Can you do a video about resetting the throttlebody once you take it off and then put it back in and you have to reset it with the scanner it would be a really big help I’m having trouble with my 2.0 after I took the throttlebody off cleaned it and put it back on it turns on the RPMs go all the way up and then it will just shut off
Thank you, I appreciate your thoroughness.
Thanks!
Guess this will be my next thing I check. My '10 A5 2.0t has a "hesitation" if you try to accelerate normally but if you go ahead and make boost come in it takes right off. You can feel it's wanting to go under light acceleration but something is holding it back, kinda like the vvt isn't working properly. Already changed plugs, coils, & diverter valve so I guess this is my next step
My 12’ a3 2.0T is doing the same thing you’re describing. Kind of hesitating when accelerating
@@Iamtherealsun well, mine is now blown up with only 120k miles on it. I suggest you sell yours and buy a good car
@@logut80 damn.. did you ever find what the cause of the hesitating was?
@Finn nope. I never bought the little specialty tool to get the filter out of the vvt. Other than that I don't know what it could of been because I changed pretty much everything else
I’ve had the vacuum actuator arm pop out of manifold. Engine idles like crap because of vacuum leak in the engine. Throws code. I jb welded mine but Ecs now sells a kit
I think I have this problem my rpms go crazy when I start up
I’m having this same issue. Any idea what the name of the kit is from ECS?
@@scorpio7d lookup Ecs p2015
I'm currently having this issue. Took it to the garage and they said I had 2 codes. One for this issue and another for coil pack 2.
Light cleared itself, which I thought "Great". So cancel the garage.... less than a week later and on the day it was meant to go into the garage.... that little light makes a return 🤦♂️🤷♂️
What’s that top sensor going in the manifold above the throttle body
Suffered from the dreaded timing chain failure 2 years ago on my A4 B8, cost a fortune to repair here in the UK.
The fault code P0016 popped up to my disgust a few weeks ago together with severe misfiring, that caused me to panic and expect the worst. As a last resort i decided to clean the sensors. The cam sensor was clean but the crank sensor magnet was covered in a black sooty material, since cleaning no more fault code and car runs so smooth!! Just thought i would share with you guys.
That’s not normal please update if the code comes back on. There also isn’t really any ferrous metal that should be sticking to the magnetic pickup. Usually if the chain and tensioner are new I look at the camshaft control valve behind the n205 to make sure the spring and retainer are still functioning properly or just replace the reverse thread control valve regardless if looking into that further and from my experience I have never had a bad cam or crank sensor on this engine it’s always something else.
@@NaptownTuner Yes i was amazed it worked, i am by no means a mechanic so it was pure luck. It was just one of those moments when you think you might as well try to see if it works. Do you think it could be metallic fragments from when the car was brand new, or maybe dirty engine oil? I should have made a video of the crap all over it. Ironically my VW Golf Mk6 had same issue, but i only cleaned the soot from the cam sensor, i could not find the crank sensor. The fault code has also disappeared.
@@rizwanhaque9735 the block is cast iron but fragments don’t every typically come off the block but not the pistons or bearings are not magnetic, the baffle for the oil fill can come loose and cause destruction in the engine getting shredded by the camshaft first, that’s magnetic. If running synthetic oil like it calls for you shouldn’t have soot or coking
@@NaptownTuner i have no idea what it was then. It could just be wrong oil used in the past. It was definitely dark in colour. The cam sensor had fresh looking oil in it because i recently changed the oil. I will keep you posted, but hoping the code doesnt come up again. Thanks for replying!
I do have one question, i recently changed my PCV valve, i did dismantle the old one and the diaphragm looks perfect. I also did the blow and suck air test which it passed. Do you think it is faulty? I did have a lean code which disappeared after replacing it.
can you take the intake manifold runner arm off the cpma metal intake manifold and replace the faulty caeb one with it or do i need whole new intake manifold ecs tuning has a fix but it wouldnt come in for 2 months
The third hose you pointed out in the video was busted for my 09 gti 2.0TFSI. I fixed this issue but the code is still there, do have any recommendations on what to do next?
I’m getting a “ intake manifold stuck open “ I’ve got a 2008 Audi A5 3.2L and there are no videos on my car only videos like this so would you know any links I could find about this issue also my water pump has a slow leak do you suggest me taking to a garage to have it fixed because I’m not finding videos on the steps to fix that myself as well so I’d highly appreciate it if you could help me out and I’ll subscribe lol!!! Thanks
@ NaptownTuner Hello, I have a 2011 Q5 with 135K on it. Just started getting the turbo underboost engine code. Dealer said the head gasket is also leaking. Regular service up until this point. Only repair was the engine oil consumption recall performed by the dealer around 60K miles. Original timing chain, tensioner, water pump, and alternator. Just replaced the original battery this spring at 130K miles. Should I sell the Q5 as is, fix the turbo and sell, or do maintenance and keep? If keep what should I do? The dealer is too expensive for this age of a car so would need to find a reasonably priced independent mechanic and would use salvage or rebuilt parts. Would love to hear your thoughts.
2012 q5 here. Had same underboost code couple years back, ended up replacing entire turbo for 2k by independent mechanic that specializes in Audis. Dealer was asking for 3.5k. My suggestion is to fix it and keep the car. It’s been a reliable car for me except for broken water pump that was another 1k repair.
Good Morning, where are you located? I am in Glen Burnie MD. I have a 2014 Jetta SE 1.8 that needs repairing. (Intake Runner Position Sensor) Thank you kindly
I had that same fault on my CPMB engine. It was the control solenoid was seized
Not saying they can’t but So far I haven’t seen a bad solenoid, that one would be tricky to figure out unless it set a fault for it
Boost control solenoid or timing control solenoid?
Thanks
Interesting. How common is this Code? Sure, as the B8(.5) ages, we will see more and more, cracked hoses by way of heat cycles..
Not common in my experience but I’ve seen it
Can this solve a 2008?
I replace my intake manifold and bought a new sensor and im still getting the same code
Did you fix this? And checked vacuum pump/lines/solenoid etc?
P201400
Intake manifold flap position sensor
Electrical fault in circuit. how can
i fix this?
Would it cause my car to run rough at stops and misfires???
No
Can you help me I placed a fully new intake manifold I connected everything but it get fault code p2008 intake manifold circuit/open I erased the fault code it keeps coming back ... ?
Did u somehow figure it out. I did the exact same thing in my passat cc. New intake manifold and after two days same code and loss of boost…(Intake Manifold Runner Position
Sensor/Switch Circuit) 😩
Thanks!