I installed this ecs part on my 2013 gti after getting 2015 code and MIL on. Volkswagen refused to participate on the repair because I was over the 10yr extended warranty by 3 months (only have 72K miles on the car). Instead of going for the $1400 intake manifold replacement cost I tried this ECS Tuning $60 part. I'm not a mechanic and took me a couple hours to do. But appears to have fixed my issue -- I have 1 week and 500 miles on it and no 2015 code. It was coming back very quickly after I cleared it before I installed this device so I'm fairly confident now. I'm only leaving this comment to give others some hope. By the way, thanks for posting this video -- I'm a happy camper now. Not sure I'll be buying another VW however.
I just put this on my 2010 VW CC today. When I first put it on, I took it for a drive to see how it would respond and to check if any codes came up again. I was getting the same P2015 code along with misfire codes. My inkling was that I had tightened the screws too much and it was restricting the movement of the arm. So I loosened these up and it seems to have fixed the issue. Now, I don't get misfires, and only a green 'historical' fault which (I am guessing) I think will go away after a few cycles if no more issues. I have noticed an increased response time between when I depress pedal to when it accelerates, so seems to be a great fix! Thank you!
Here is what I found when studying this ECS kit solution to the "P2015" code when I installed mine. Seems like no-one really digs deeply into the problem to understand why the P2015 code is thrown. Answer is: The Intake runner flaps inside the intake manifold (which you cannot see while it is mounted) go too far forward when drivers accelerate due to the fact that the plastic actuator rest/stop (which this kit fixes) has worn over time thus allowing the mechanism (and arm) to travel further than designed... combined with the intake runners going too far forward. This "cap" solution, in essence, is supposed to stop the forward movement (via rotation/action) of the actuator and intake runners so that the condition that creates the P2015 CEL (or MIL) from materializing will not happen. Proper installation is not just "slap this cap on and tighten the screws "and go". But rather, the installation involves making sure that when applied to the intake, the travel of the actuator (arm) and intake runners is restricted when full acceleration is given to the engine. If not properly installed, and the cap is not oriented/pivoted/rotated far enough (counterclockwise) to change the condition, or position of the rest/stop (with the "new" metal one...ie. The cap and kit) at full throttle, then the problem will not be fixed by the kit.
I had the same code. If you pop the lid off that rubber plunger valve, you'll find a 25*80mm spring. Trim it down to 45mm and reinstall. The mechanism will still actuate correctly, but there will be considerably less pressure against that tiny motor and plastic "hard" stop.
I have this code too, on my 2011 Audi A3. The way to check it to watch the video at 1:45 minute. Whether you have the flush model or the one that protrudes out a little bit, the way to check it is to push it in, and if it goes in, then you have a problem. I have not bought the ECS part yet, but I have been reading all the comments and I realize this: 1. if you can push it in, then it is part of the problem. And after you push it in, then start it, then if the engine is running smoothly at idle, then the problem lies in there. 2. you can also check by turning the engine on and running, and put a finger in the front of it, you will notice that the air is sucking in very strongly. As if it wants to suck your finger inside that opening. 3. then you push it in, and you should notice that the air sucking in is much, much weaker. So today, I push it in before driving it to the gym. The engine started up smoothly, but once at the gym's parking lot, the idle starts to get rough, like misfiring, and while the engine is on, check that thing, and sure enough it is coming out a little bit, so I push it in, and the engine is idling smooth again, and the air sucking in is much weaker, as described in 2. So in conclusion, when that thing comes out a little bit, it messes up the idling, and the ECU will report it as misfiring on all 4 engines. And for those who put in that ECS part without success, I think that before putting it on, you should try to PUSH IT IN, and make sure that the idling is smooth, then turn the engine off, and put the part in. In my situation, the part does not come out that much, like maybe 2 mm, and that is enough to cause the misfiring at idle. So play with it, before ordering the ECS part. ECS told me that they don't take it back. Unless it is brand new, in the plastic bag. Also, ECS says that this part is only for FSI engines, not for TFSI, but my 2011 Audi A3 has a TFSI engine, and the fact that the round thing is coming out and makes the idle rough, and when pushed in, makes the idle smooth again, I think it shoud work. I will order the ECS part, and I hope that it will work. And I will report back soon. dan
Great video. ordered from ECS. Arrived quickly. installed. That rear fastener is hopeless. But the car works great again. No crazy turbo noise when she fires it up.
Hi I purchased the kit from the US it only took 5 days to arrive in New Zealand and I must say the quality of the part is impressive and fits perfectly, so far no isssues so thanks for the video and advice.
2.0 TSI Tiguan, 2013. Got misfire 4th cylinder, rough at cold. Swapped coils. Still the same 4th misfire and rough cold. Got my inlet valves etc cleaned up -- they were really dirty. Got rid of misfire and rough idle. But now P2015 pops ups if I rev > 4000. Sometimes lower. Ordered this kit and installed it today. Was easy to install. But -- no help. P2015 pops ups again.
Actually walnut blaster the valves while replacing the intake manifold. Now get the EPC light intermittently but not CEL or codes. Sometimes at traffic lights it seems it wants to stall. Now waiting for a code to follow.
I just ordered one.... I hope this works for me cause I had the P2015 code before and I swapped out the manifold for a entire new one which did not do the trick... hopefully this does.
I bought it and then I installed it, it worked 😍😍 Before installing the part, the check engine light was displays, code (p2015), after installing the part I don't see the check engine light anymore also no codes 😍😍
Ok so I have the p2015 code along with misfires and lean on bank1. Testing the thing it can pop out but wasn't when I looked at it. Putting my finger over it ,it pulls vacuum and sucks on my finger. My idle some days is rougher than others and today it was so bad it felt like I was on 2 cylinders. Epc light came on and check engine light flashed. Car sounded horrible at idle. Turned car off. Did a scan cleared codes. Turned it back on took 3 try of cranking not starting before it turned on. Ran like crap. Then poof back to running fine, had power ,idle was clearly misfiring but not as bad as before. Watched your video , it wasn't pushed out but I can pull it out. Car rough idle but had power on test drive ,now it seems fine again with minor misfire. It's been like this for over a month. Slight smell of fuel near intake manifold. Possibly need new manifold and maybe fuel injectors? Or seals for injectors.? No visible leaks just a smell on one side only.
I can’t be 100% sure but it sounds like you have the right idea, I’d bet if you replace fuel injectors, install updated intake manifold and clean the valves while you’re in there it’ll be good
Hey, I’ve been dealing with an issue on my VW CC 2.0T and could really use some advice. I keep getting a flashing CEL with the EPC light, and the misfires are happening only on cylinders 1 & 3. Here’s what I’ve done: • Changed the spark plugs • Replaced the ignition coils • Installed new injectors • Did a valve cleaning for carbon buildup • Replaced the PCV valve Even after all this, the problem still happens only at idle-like when the car is parked or waiting at a traffic light-and I get a loss of power. I’m completely out of options at this point and not sure what else to check 🥲.
Also, I’ve noticed that after the misfires, when the codes are cleared and the spark plugs are pulled, they come out wet. Which have clean before putting them back in😅
Thanks for the video/idea. I was curious what symptoms you were having before this mod? I have p2015 come up with misfires on a cold start, but once engine is warmed up (30-60s) the car idles fine and has no issues while driving it. I know $60 is a cheaper fix, but just wanted to make sure before ordering
If you have that flap position sensor fault stored this will possibly fix it, it’s definitely a hit or miss thing tho, if you want to be 100% sure ordering the updated intake manifold would be the way to go, and clean the carbon off the valves while you’re in therr
I’ve been having the same issues as you. Misfires on start up and then a minute or two later is fine. P2015 came up along with other codes related to 02 sensor in bank 1. I feel like I want to try this fix before having to invest in new intake…
Если пропуски зажигания на холодном двигателе,то значит вихревые заслонки находятся в открытом состоянии. У меня они находятся в закрытом виде и проблем с работой двигателя на холодную нет, а есть проблема недостатка тяги на больших оборотах, потому что заслонки не открываются.
Great video well explained but what if i already replaced the entire intake manifold and that sensor on the left side of the intake and i still have the p2015 code? anyone have any ideas u think maybe a bad wire?
I installed the ECS intake manifold repair kit on my 2013 CC and after resetting the CEL and driving it around, I still get the p2015 fault. What would be my next course of action? Getting the manifold replaced?
I have a question off of this video. I did a carb cleaning on my intake (2011 audi, E888 motor so same intake) I was getting a lean in bank one code along with the flap position sensor code. I did a carb clean and cleared the codes. The only code to come back has been the position sensor and I have found that the control arm is loose, I have the ecs part ordered hoping that the arm popping lose is the only issue, but I did see an earlier comment about it possibly being a larger issue if you're getting a lean code but can no longer find the comment. Would this control arm cause a lean code as well that would possibly come and go until it's fixed? Or would this be a larger issue? When I cleaned my intake I checked my injectors and o-rings and all looked good, I cleaned the Injectors a little while I was at it.
Yeah sometimes they have a vacuum leak at the pivot point where that arm you speak of attaches. I would say if you want a absolute solution to this problem replace the intake manifold with the updated one
I installed this on my mk6 gti and it still has the fault would it be the sensor at that point installed it correctly all 3 screws are tighten down the arm no longer pops out
Had p2015 pop up along with misfire codes for all cylinders, car runs(barely) like crap. Could just the flap actuator arm cause this? And if so, wouldn't that mean I would need to know what the starting position of the arm should be soo I can position it there before I tighten down the allen screws?
If you push the pivot back into place to the vacuum leak go away? You might be better of updating your intake manifold if holding the pivot in doesn’t eliminate your vacuum leak
@@EuropeanAutoRepair when I push the pivot back into place there doesn’t seem to be a vacuum leak however if I put my finger over the pivot I can feel the suction. Does that mean there’s still a leak? If so wouldn’t I be able to use some sort of rubber sealant along with the ecs cap?
Hey man I hope you have some advice on this but I have this same code and it misfires and comes close to stalling only when it’s cold. When the car gets to running temperature the problem stops and doesn’t make sense to me. I drive 2012 Volkswagen Jetta
If all you have are misfire faults and intake flap related faults it’s likely that replacing your intake manifold and cleaning carbon deposits off valves while your in there will take care of it. If it has a strong fuel smell on cold startup you may have a injector problem
I am thinking about purchasing this, considering I physically checked the actuator, pulled it out a little bit with the car on, and can indeed hear vacuum pressure leaking from this point. At this point, the price seems right but says it should ship out in about 2 weeks (idk if they’re busy, or what). Did this fix the P2015 code diagnostic from returning after install on this car? Have you used this solution more than once? Trying to save myself time and labor to replace the manifold entirely.
Thanks for the speedy reply. I went ahead and purchased it. I’ll update this comment thread when I have it installed and let the world know. I have the same exact engine/manifold as you show in this video; let’s hope this works out!
I ordered mine March 17th, and I paid extra for 2-day shippigng and it just got here today. I got my shipping charges back since it was "In Stock" I only use ECS if I have to because they are absolute garbage at getting orders out. I'm surprised it even came today because it says expected delivery, "June 1st" lol
About 6 months ago my CEL came on and it was the dreaded P2015 code. After a few days the CEL went out but sure enough it came back on. Checked it again and it had the same code. Eventually it went away for a bit but earlier this month it came back on and stayed on. I ran the codes today and got P2015, P2187 (system too lean at idle bank 1), P2279 (intake air system leak bank 1). Think this part would fix the errors or does the manifold need to be replaced?
@@EuropeanAutoRepair I was just looking and the actuator arm wasn't properly connected and the plastic connector wasn't flush as it should be. Guessing it's due to the side load you mentioned. That said, think the part would help or need a new manifold?
I had the same thing going on with my car and it took care of the problem. With customer cars I usually recommend replacing with the updated manifold so I don't have a whole lot of experience with that repair piece really. I don't want to say it'll take care of the problem 100% and waste your money if it doesn't. So far so good for me
Hi, I have attempted to fit this part over this weekend. I have managed to get two of the screws in but the back one is proving difficult. When the fix is in position, should the moving arm rest against the back of it?
I had trouble with it too. I had to remove the air filter box to be able to get my arm in there and the ranch using a extendable mirror to see what I was doing
I installed this part today and I disconnected the battery and left it sit for a couple of minutes and then reconnected it to try and clear the engine code. I turned it on and the check engine light was still on. I’ll be driving it for about an hour tomorrow to see if it fixes itself but I’m not very hopeful.
@@EuropeanAutoRepair yeah that’s what I figured but I didn’t want to replace it without giving this a shot. Hopefully it fixes itself on my drive tmrw, but either way I’ll have someone check the codes that are setting off the light. I also had an evap leak that I thought was coming from my gas cap so I replaced that as well.
Man. I have had this code for a few weeks. Just got my part in and cleared the codes on my OBDELEVEN… and it just popped up again. I’m so stressed out.
When that pivot at the intake manifold flap starts to pull away from the manifold you get lean faults often, probably you best idea would be replacing the intake manifold with the updated one
I have a Gti mark 6 and I just recently bought a cobb tuner for it and when I flashed the engines to stage 1 the engine light popped up and it says p2015 do you think it would work if I install that item you installed
i installed this part on my 2011 gti with the same code and i have tried clear the code after the intall but it just comes right back on even before driveing
Well it might be worth loosening up the bolts and messing with it a little bit to make sure it’s positioned correctly, I’ve had them not resolve the issue in the past and end up replacing the intake manifold with the updated design as well
@@EuropeanAutoRepair hi . i looked at the unit again and tried to reset the gadget more to the front. only managed to tighten 2 screws. the code stayed on the code reader but i have driven 50 miles and not seen the eml on dash. Is that weird or what? lol i am not sure if is sorted but fingers crossed.
If the issue is that the actuator link has worn the "drive" hole that engages with the flap-rod, then this won't work as the sensor will still detect implausible movement due to the slop... just saying like. Silly design by Vag.
I have the code p2015 in my 2013 Volkswagen GTI car but not even the mechanic knows how to solve it because I already changed the manifold and the code follows, please, can someone tell me what it could be to solve it, please, thank you
It’s possible this would take care of the problem but it’s definitely a little bit of a gamble, to be 100% sure the problem is resolved replacing the intake manifold with the updated design will for sure take care of the issue,
@@irvingarza1575 I just replaced the whole intake buddy, that fixed my problem. When I ordered this part they said it was on back order and wouldn't be delivered for two months so I just bought a brand new intake manifold
If i want to buy the upgraded manifold. How do I know which one is it? I don’t want to end up buying the same manifold I have and eventually find my self in the same spot. Is there a link or something you can provide to buy the upgraded manifold? My check engine light came up again after installing that thing. 😞
@@EuropeanAutoRepair thanks so much. Mi question now is, do I need to change the fuel rail too? And anything else from the manifold? Because they sell both the manifold itself and a manifold with screws, fuel rail and other things? Or can I just buy the manifold and use the other components ?
You can pretty much just swap over the fuel rail without issue, the intake should be about all you need and some injector seals, I would clean those intake valves while you are in there
Awesome bro. Thanks so much for your help. Keep it posting, I think I’ll be buying another euro car soon and I like doing this jobs my self, is my hobby
@@EuropeanAutoRepairdarn!! Great video! I'm going to check again if the lever is free. It's all drives fine and has been getting food mileage! I'm about done with VW's. Had to replace our 2009, the engine block at 85,000k after timing chain tensioner went. Just replaced the differential/haldex at 130,000km and now this....very frustrating. All regular service intervals etc. not a happy camper.
I installed the part, but I'm still getting code on a 2012 VW cc. Perhaps I need to loosen the screws and check the layout of it but I believe it's parallel with the arm.
Yoooo i really appreciate this video i will look into that part, my engine codes are: P2015 P0101 P0507 P2187 and lean P300 codes are they all caused by this piece??? I literally have a brand new intake manifold so the sensor is brand new
@TheWhimsicalKat is it a 2.0tsi engine? Is the bell housing area between the engine and transmission appear to be dry? Rear main seals are a pretty common cause on these
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
My wife's Audi was throwing the p2015 code. I searched and found your video, purchased the ESC part and it fixed the problem. Thank you!
Excellent, I’m happy it worked out for you!
Where can I get the part brother, I have the same problem, I hope this saves my ass, name of the part too
@@nj397 It's a Volkswagen Tiguan 2.0 2011
@@petehorn4696 what year was the Audi ?
I installed this ecs part on my 2013 gti after getting 2015 code and MIL on. Volkswagen refused to participate on the repair because I was over the 10yr extended warranty by 3 months (only have 72K miles on the car). Instead of going for the $1400 intake manifold replacement cost I tried this ECS Tuning $60 part. I'm not a mechanic and took me a couple hours to do. But appears to have fixed my issue -- I have 1 week and 500 miles on it and no 2015 code. It was coming back very quickly after I cleared it before I installed this device so I'm fairly confident now. I'm only leaving this comment to give others some hope. By the way, thanks for posting this video -- I'm a happy camper now. Not sure I'll be buying another VW however.
I’m happy to hear it worked out for you!
I just opened that runner valve and trimmed the 80mm spring down to 45mm. Allows the arm to move with much less resistance.
I just put this on my 2010 VW CC today. When I first put it on, I took it for a drive to see how it would respond and to check if any codes came up again. I was getting the same P2015 code along with misfire codes. My inkling was that I had tightened the screws too much and it was restricting the movement of the arm. So I loosened these up and it seems to have fixed the issue. Now, I don't get misfires, and only a green 'historical' fault which (I am guessing) I think will go away after a few cycles if no more issues. I have noticed an increased response time between when I depress pedal to when it accelerates, so seems to be a great fix! Thank you!
So happy it worked out and took care of it, good save with the bolt tension
Unfortunately still having this code p2015 appear. I guess it's something else.
I was “this” close to buying a whole new intake manifold. Bless you man for this video
I hope it takes care of it for you, it’s not a guaranteed fix but it may do the trick
@@EuropeanAutoRepairкак заказать? Откуда?
Did it work?
Here is what I found when studying this ECS kit solution to the "P2015" code when I installed mine. Seems like no-one really digs deeply into the problem to understand why the P2015 code is thrown. Answer is: The Intake runner flaps inside the intake manifold (which you cannot see while it is mounted) go too far forward when drivers accelerate due to the fact that the plastic actuator rest/stop (which this kit fixes) has worn over time thus allowing the mechanism (and arm) to travel further than designed... combined with the intake runners going too far forward. This "cap" solution, in essence, is supposed to stop the forward movement (via rotation/action) of the actuator and intake runners so that the condition that creates the P2015 CEL (or MIL) from materializing will not happen. Proper installation is not just "slap this cap on and tighten the screws "and go". But rather, the installation involves making sure that when applied to the intake, the travel of the actuator (arm) and intake runners is restricted when full acceleration is given to the engine. If not properly installed, and the cap is not oriented/pivoted/rotated far enough (counterclockwise) to change the condition, or position of the rest/stop (with the "new" metal one...ie. The cap and kit) at full throttle, then the problem will not be fixed by the kit.
I had the same code. If you pop the lid off that rubber plunger valve, you'll find a 25*80mm spring. Trim it down to 45mm and reinstall. The mechanism will still actuate correctly, but there will be considerably less pressure against that tiny motor and plastic "hard" stop.
This actually saved me so much work. Thanks bro
I have this code too, on my 2011 Audi A3.
The way to check it to watch the video at 1:45 minute. Whether you have the flush model or the one that protrudes out a little bit, the way to check it is to push it in, and if it goes in, then you have a problem.
I have not bought the ECS part yet, but I have been reading all the comments and I realize this:
1. if you can push it in, then it is part of the problem. And after you push it in, then start it, then if the engine is running smoothly at idle, then the problem lies in there.
2. you can also check by turning the engine on and running, and put a finger in the front of it, you will notice that the air is sucking in very strongly. As if it wants to suck your finger inside that opening.
3. then you push it in, and you should notice that the air sucking in is much, much weaker.
So today, I push it in before driving it to the gym. The engine started up smoothly, but once at the gym's parking lot, the idle starts to get rough, like misfiring, and while the engine is on, check that thing, and sure enough it is coming out a little bit, so I push it in, and the engine is idling smooth again, and the air sucking in is much weaker, as described in 2.
So in conclusion, when that thing comes out a little bit, it messes up the idling, and the ECU will report it as misfiring on all 4 engines.
And for those who put in that ECS part without success, I think that before putting it on, you should try to PUSH IT IN, and make sure that the idling is smooth, then turn the engine off, and put the part in.
In my situation, the part does not come out that much, like maybe 2 mm, and that is enough to cause the misfiring at idle.
So play with it, before ordering the ECS part. ECS told me that they don't take it back. Unless it is brand new, in the plastic bag.
Also, ECS says that this part is only for FSI engines, not for TFSI, but my 2011 Audi A3 has a TFSI engine, and the fact that the round thing is coming out and makes the idle rough, and when pushed in, makes the idle smooth again, I think it shoud work.
I will order the ECS part, and I hope that it will work. And I will report back soon.
dan
Works saved me an expensive trip I cleared my code never came back like it was doing prior. Also drives smooth again in sport and drive mode- 2013 EOS
Great video. ordered from ECS. Arrived quickly. installed. That rear fastener is hopeless. But the car works great again. No crazy turbo noise when she fires it up.
What is that pis call so I can order it
Hi I purchased the kit from the US it only took 5 days to arrive in New Zealand and I must say the quality of the part is impressive and fits perfectly, so far no isssues so thanks for the video and advice.
I’m happy to hear that! Thanks for watching
@@EuropeanAutoRepair Where can I buy the repair kit send a link to buy it
greetings from Spain
Hi Mike, what is the name of this kit? How can I order, I am living in NZ.thanks
Como se llama la pieza y dinde la puedo conseguir
@@alexflores1011ya supiste como se llama y dónde se consigue yo también la requiero
2.0 TSI Tiguan, 2013. Got misfire 4th cylinder, rough at cold. Swapped coils. Still the same 4th misfire and rough cold. Got my inlet valves etc cleaned up -- they were really dirty. Got rid of misfire and rough idle. But now P2015 pops ups if I rev > 4000. Sometimes lower. Ordered this kit and installed it today. Was easy to install. But -- no help. P2015 pops ups again.
Might be time to order updated intake manifold, sorry it didn’t work out for you
@@EuropeanAutoRepair Exactly. Worth trying, though.
Did you try pcv valve
@@ShootOnFilm was this piece popping out or not? Thats the whole idea of the kit so it prevents from it popping out.
Going to try it today. The part is due to arrive later this morning. Thanks for bringing this fix to light.
Finally got it on. Road tested. Code came back.
Should I look for something else or replace the entire intake. CC 12. Thanks for your help.
@dharmalearner7396 I’m sorry it’s likely you’ll end up needing to replace the intake manifold
Oh no.
@@dharmalearner7396I have a cc 12 as well with the same code did you get it resolved?
Actually walnut blaster the valves while replacing the intake manifold. Now get the EPC light intermittently but not CEL or codes. Sometimes at traffic lights it seems it wants to stall. Now waiting for a code to follow.
can you pleas share the link on where i can buy it
P2015 popped up today. I think this part is going to save my ass. thanks so much for having the same car and making this video
Hah no problem! I hope it takes care of your fault. So far so good over here with my car but this is the first time Ive tried it
Did it fix it?
I just ordered one.... I hope this works for me cause I had the P2015 code before and I swapped out the manifold for a entire new one which did not do the trick... hopefully this does.
I hope you get to the bottom of it
Did it solve the issue?
@@reggie1319 sadly no, i have a different i take manifold... this was allready a replaced one.
Did this work? I'm having a similar issue.
@@ilaybalaban8503 didn't work for me (plastic manifold) but sincse then the transmission also gave in so the car is a write off.
I bought it and then I installed it, it worked 😍😍
Before installing the part, the check engine light was displays, code (p2015), after installing the part I don't see the check engine light anymore also no codes 😍😍
ضبطت معاك القطعه الشهري انا ظاهر معي p2015 بدلت سنسر ماشي فائده هل هذه القطعه مفيده لفتح وغلق البوابات
So if it didn’t work is it the sensor ? Which is much harder to get to. I really don’t want to have to replace the hole thing..
Thanks man. This fixed my issue and saved me hundreds🙏🏼
I’m so happy to hear that!
Ok so I have the p2015 code along with misfires and lean on bank1. Testing the thing it can pop out but wasn't when I looked at it. Putting my finger over it ,it pulls vacuum and sucks on my finger. My idle some days is rougher than others and today it was so bad it felt like I was on 2 cylinders. Epc light came on and check engine light flashed. Car sounded horrible at idle. Turned car off. Did a scan cleared codes. Turned it back on took 3 try of cranking not starting before it turned on. Ran like crap.
Then poof back to running fine, had power ,idle was clearly misfiring but not as bad as before. Watched your video , it wasn't pushed out but I can pull it out. Car rough idle but had power on test drive ,now it seems fine again with minor misfire. It's been like this for over a month.
Slight smell of fuel near intake manifold.
Possibly need new manifold and maybe fuel injectors? Or seals for injectors.?
No visible leaks just a smell on one side only.
I can’t be 100% sure but it sounds like you have the right idea, I’d bet if you replace fuel injectors, install updated intake manifold and clean the valves while you’re in there it’ll be good
Hey, I’ve been dealing with an issue on my VW CC 2.0T and could really use some advice. I keep getting a flashing CEL with the EPC light, and the misfires are happening only on cylinders 1 & 3. Here’s what I’ve done:
• Changed the spark plugs
• Replaced the ignition coils
• Installed new injectors
• Did a valve cleaning for carbon buildup
• Replaced the PCV valve
Even after all this, the problem still happens only at idle-like when the car is parked or waiting at a traffic light-and I get a loss of power. I’m completely out of options at this point and not sure what else to check 🥲.
Also, I’ve noticed that after the misfires, when the codes are cleared and the spark plugs are pulled, they come out wet. Which have clean before putting them back in😅
Do you have any mixture related faults stored? Might be worth checking compression just to verify engine health.
Thanks for the video/idea. I was curious what symptoms you were having before this mod? I have p2015 come up with misfires on a cold start, but once engine is warmed up (30-60s) the car idles fine and has no issues while driving it. I know $60 is a cheaper fix, but just wanted to make sure before ordering
If you have that flap position sensor fault stored this will possibly fix it, it’s definitely a hit or miss thing tho, if you want to be 100% sure ordering the updated intake manifold would be the way to go, and clean the carbon off the valves while you’re in therr
I’ve been having the same issues as you. Misfires on start up and then a minute or two later is fine. P2015 came up along with other codes related to 02 sensor in bank 1. I feel like I want to try this fix before having to invest in new intake…
Если пропуски зажигания на холодном двигателе,то значит вихревые заслонки находятся в открытом состоянии. У меня они находятся в закрытом виде и проблем с работой двигателя на холодную нет, а есть проблема недостатка тяги на больших оборотах, потому что заслонки не открываются.
I don't seem to have any sideways movement on my actuator arm but have the P2015 fault code? Could this still potentially fix it? Thanks
Hey man thanks for making the video. Will this work on a TFSI engine? I have an Audi a3 2009
did it work? i have the same code on my a3 2009 1.8
Well done. Easy to follow content and direction. Thanks for putting this out there!
Thanks! I do appreciate that
Great video well explained but what if i already replaced the entire intake manifold and that sensor on the left side of the intake and i still have the p2015 code? anyone have any ideas u think maybe a bad wire?
It’s possible but I haven’t seen that, did you use a OEM updated intake?
Any update on this? Im having the same issue; replaced intake manifold (incl. New sensors) and now I have a P0015 code.
Just finished installing the part but I still have the CEL how long did it take for the code to clear for you?
Try clearing it with a generic scan tool, if the fault returns you will likely need to replace your intake manifold with the updated one
I installed the ECS intake manifold repair kit on my 2013 CC and after resetting the CEL and driving it around, I still get the p2015 fault. What would be my next course of action? Getting the manifold replaced?
I’m sorry but yeah that’s probably what will need to happen
I have a question off of this video. I did a carb cleaning on my intake (2011 audi, E888 motor so same intake) I was getting a lean in bank one code along with the flap position sensor code. I did a carb clean and cleared the codes. The only code to come back has been the position sensor and I have found that the control arm is loose, I have the ecs part ordered hoping that the arm popping lose is the only issue, but I did see an earlier comment about it possibly being a larger issue if you're getting a lean code but can no longer find the comment. Would this control arm cause a lean code as well that would possibly come and go until it's fixed? Or would this be a larger issue? When I cleaned my intake I checked my injectors and o-rings and all looked good, I cleaned the Injectors a little while I was at it.
Yeah sometimes they have a vacuum leak at the pivot point where that arm you speak of attaches. I would say if you want a absolute solution to this problem replace the intake manifold with the updated one
I lost my spacer, so what can I use for replacement?
Hi. I’m looking to order one of these for a 2009 VW Eos. Please can you share the link where it can be purchased
I just put a link in the description, it’s from ecs tuning
I installed this on my mk6 gti and it still has the fault would it be the sensor at that point installed it correctly all 3 screws are tighten down the arm no longer pops out
I have a 2012 VW Scirocco which has P2004 & P2015 error codes. Does this require the inlet manifold to be replaced completely?
Do you know if it is the same on the 1.4 TSI engine?
hello greetings thanks for the video I have a question after installing this part does the check engine code disappear immediately?
After the fault is cleared the code should stay away if it went success
Had p2015 pop up along with misfire codes for all cylinders, car runs(barely) like crap. Could just the flap actuator arm cause this? And if so, wouldn't that mean I would need to know what the starting position of the arm should be soo I can position it there before I tighten down the allen screws?
With the car idling if you put your finger in the hole for the intake pivot does it pull vacuum on it?
@@EuropeanAutoRepair Mine does!
If you push the pivot back into place to the vacuum leak go away? You might be better of updating your intake manifold if holding the pivot in doesn’t eliminate your vacuum leak
@@EuropeanAutoRepair when I push the pivot back into place there doesn’t seem to be a vacuum leak however if I put my finger over the pivot I can feel the suction. Does that mean there’s still a leak? If so wouldn’t I be able to use some sort of rubber sealant along with the ecs cap?
Do you have a name & part number, unable to find on ECS site. Cheers
My engine is from Audi and it is TFSI and it is CDAA engine code. Can I mount this kit? Is there a difference between the TSI and the TFSI?
I’m not sure that will work for you on that engine, might want to check with ecs tuning to be sure
@@EuropeanAutoRepair I spoke to them and they told me that they were not 100 percent sure about it because they had not tested it on that engine
Did you sort the issue on your tfsi?
beautifully done.bravo.
Откуда купил? Пожалуйста скиньте ссылку
Where can I buy the repair kit send a link to buy it
greetings from Spai
www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/vw-audi-p2015-20t-tsi-intake-manifold-lever-arm-fix-kit/021071ecs01~a/?gclid=CjwKCAjw04yjBhApEiwAJcvNoQSEYKV-gDmdpxLqRQCHkN47BEsRMlymDCSU6GiaRLYdmNhdOra5YxoCpt0QAvD_BwE
Hey man I hope you have some advice on this but I have this same code and it misfires and comes close to stalling only when it’s cold. When the car gets to running temperature the problem stops and doesn’t make sense to me. I drive 2012 Volkswagen Jetta
If all you have are misfire faults and intake flap related faults it’s likely that replacing your intake manifold and cleaning carbon deposits off valves while your in there will take care of it. If it has a strong fuel smell on cold startup you may have a injector problem
When I had this the cam position sensor was gone too with no code
Carbon cleaning I what you need. I've a 2009 2.0 tsi scirocco and had the same issue. The carbon build up on the valve stems was bad.
I am thinking about purchasing this, considering I physically checked the actuator, pulled it out a little bit with the car on, and can indeed hear vacuum pressure leaking from this point. At this point, the price seems right but says it should ship out in about 2 weeks (idk if they’re busy, or what). Did this fix the P2015 code diagnostic from returning after install on this car? Have you used this solution more than once? Trying to save myself time and labor to replace the manifold entirely.
It worked on the model in this video but it’s pretty hit or miss honestly, if you want a for sure fix the updated manifold is the way to go
Thanks for the speedy reply. I went ahead and purchased it. I’ll update this comment thread when I have it installed and let the world know. I have the same exact engine/manifold as you show in this video; let’s hope this works out!
I hope it takes care of it!!
I ordered mine March 17th, and I paid extra for 2-day shippigng and it just got here today. I got my shipping charges back since it was "In Stock" I only use ECS if I have to because they are absolute garbage at getting orders out. I'm surprised it even came today because it says expected delivery, "June 1st" lol
@@stevens8693 wow, that’s bad, sorry man, I’ve actually had similar experiences with them in the past as well
It works! Thank you bro
Intake Manifold Runner Position
Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/ Performance Bank 1 I have this problem can you help me?
Vw Passat 2010
What's the name of this part and where can I buy it my 2012 Volkswagen beetle is having this problem
Do you have a link to this part having trouble finding it
I need it too
Thnx so much I just fix mine right now it work so good 🎉
About 6 months ago my CEL came on and it was the dreaded P2015 code. After a few days the CEL went out but sure enough it came back on. Checked it again and it had the same code. Eventually it went away for a bit but earlier this month it came back on and stayed on. I ran the codes today and got P2015, P2187 (system too lean at idle bank 1), P2279 (intake air system leak bank 1). Think this part would fix the errors or does the manifold need to be replaced?
It might be worth a shot, the guaranteed fix would be the updated manifold but you might have luck with this
@@EuropeanAutoRepair I was just looking and the actuator arm wasn't properly connected and the plastic connector wasn't flush as it should be. Guessing it's due to the side load you mentioned. That said, think the part would help or need a new manifold?
I had the same thing going on with my car and it took care of the problem. With customer cars I usually recommend replacing with the updated manifold so I don't have a whole lot of experience with that repair piece really. I don't want to say it'll take care of the problem 100% and waste your money if it doesn't. So far so good for me
@@EuropeanAutoRepair Awesome. I'll give it a shot. Thank you!
No problem! Hope it takes care of your problem!
Hi mate, thanks for your informative video.
Question where I can get this kit,any part number ? Thanks
www.ecstuning.com/News/Audi_VW_20T_TSI_Intake_Manifold_Lever_Fix_21071/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwidSWBhDdARIsAIoTVb2dmeeU13F8ej25nIOO8LyVIPYfaQzcrdYRuzvJa_feRzvSurYZ0bMaAoDPEALw_wcB
Hi, I have attempted to fit this part over this weekend. I have managed to get two of the screws in but the back one is proving difficult. When the fix is in position, should the moving arm rest against the back of it?
I had trouble with it too. I had to remove the air filter box to be able to get my arm in there and the ranch using a extendable mirror to see what I was doing
I installed this part today and I disconnected the battery and left it sit for a couple of minutes and then reconnected it to try and clear the engine code. I turned it on and the check engine light was still on. I’ll be driving it for about an hour tomorrow to see if it fixes itself but I’m not very hopeful.
Bummer, hope it works out, you may end up replacing intake manifold
@@EuropeanAutoRepair yeah that’s what I figured but I didn’t want to replace it without giving this a shot. Hopefully it fixes itself on my drive tmrw, but either way I’ll have someone check the codes that are setting off the light. I also had an evap leak that I thought was coming from my gas cap so I replaced that as well.
Can I use this kit on my 2013 VW CC Sport?
It should work if it’s a 2.0tsi
Thanks bro but How I can find this producto in Mexico?
Yeah but does it clear the code
Can this part mess up you cruise control?
Not that I’ve noticed
Hola buenas tardes soy de argentina y quisiera saber si este kit sirve para un VW vento tsi 2.0?
I can’t say for sure, I have never seen that model
What's the parts called and where can I buy it send me the link
does anyone know if this will fit 2013 audi a3 qauttro ????
How did you get to the back screw?
With an allen key very slowly, kind of a pain
Does this work for 2013 vw gti too?
It should
Thanks for this! Sadly this didn't work for me. Probably gonna have to upgrade the manifold. 😕
Man. I have had this code for a few weeks. Just got my part in and cleared the codes on my OBDELEVEN… and it just popped up again. I’m so stressed out.
I'm sorry to hear that, do you have a lean fault along with the position sensor fault?
@@EuropeanAutoRepairI do what does that mean together?
When that pivot at the intake manifold flap starts to pull away from the manifold you get lean faults often, probably you best idea would be replacing the intake manifold with the updated one
Just as a follow up I am 3 weeks post this fix and the light has not come back on!!
Excellent!!
Did u get the p2004 code as well when u got the p2015? I got both don't know if that makes any difference
I have a Gti mark 6 and I just recently bought a cobb tuner for it and when I flashed the engines to stage 1 the engine light popped up and it says p2015 do you think it would work if I install that item you installed
I have a new intake I installed as well
It’s kind of hit or miss so far from what I’ve seen
Any idea what could cause the P2016 fault?
Also on a 2.0tsi engine?
@@EuropeanAutoRepair 1.8tfsi it's a B8 A4
Did this work please let me know before I end up changing the whole intake manifold
It’s kind of hit or miss, I’ve had luck with it several times but last one I installed ended up needing a intake anyway, it’s a bit of a gamble
We’re can I get the ECS
Hi Sir
Please assist how I get this part online. I am in South Africa I think my Passat CC has same issue.
www.ecstuning.com/News/Audi_VW_20T_TSI_Intake_Manifold_Lever_Fix_21071/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwidSWBhDdARIsAIoTVb2dmeeU13F8ej25nIOO8LyVIPYfaQzcrdYRuzvJa_feRzvSurYZ0bMaAoDPEALw_wcB
i installed this part on my 2011 gti with the same code and i have tried clear the code after the intall but it just comes right back on even before driveing
Well it might be worth loosening up the bolts and messing with it a little bit to make sure it’s positioned correctly, I’ve had them not resolve the issue in the past and end up replacing the intake manifold with the updated design as well
Hello can you please share the link for this kit or the name ?
www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/vw-audi-p2015-20t-tsi-intake-manifold-lever-arm-fix-kit/021071ecs01~a/?gclid=CjwKCAjwoqGnBhAcEiwAwK-OkUN75ItH1NOu5ORSyAnhvbuHt1aXG51-D7KdISWnhT3LyMquzO93GxoCFn0QAvD_BwE
Would you have a link to the web site, can't find it on there ,or have you got the description of what to look for. Thanks.
www.ecstuning.com/News/Audi_VW_20T_TSI_Intake_Manifold_Lever_Fix_21071/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwidSWBhDdARIsAIoTVb2dmeeU13F8ej25nIOO8LyVIPYfaQzcrdYRuzvJa_feRzvSurYZ0bMaAoDPEALw_wcB
@@EuropeanAutoRepair Thanks.
I bought that part and it doesn't fit my Volkswagen GTI car, what else can I be?
I had exact prob on vw scirocco tsi and installed this gadget but no change still have the p2015 code
Dang, bummer, might have to swap out intake manifold
i know but it was worth a try. My light came on after i had to replace an injector . It was a reputable mechanic who did it, lol@@EuropeanAutoRepair
@@EuropeanAutoRepair hi . i looked at the unit again and tried to reset the gadget more to the front. only managed to tighten 2 screws. the code stayed on the code reader but i have driven 50 miles and not seen the eml on dash. Is that weird or what? lol i am not sure if is sorted but fingers crossed.
Hmm let me know if the light returns
@@EuropeanAutoRepair yep light came back on after 200miles driving .
Did it clear the p2015 code
It often fixes the problem but I’ve also had it not, either way you will need the fault cleared after install
What is the link to the site to purchase the part?
www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/vw-audi-p2015-20t-tsi-intake-manifold-lever-arm-fix-kit/021071ecs01~a/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAq4KuBhA6EiwArMAw1Jpf94-_G_fCF1LMUntcA0c2JfPbMQvtFZyvPW6ivWOZZDClS339MxoCI00QAvD_BwE
If the issue is that the actuator link has worn the "drive" hole that engages with the flap-rod, then this won't work as the sensor will still detect implausible movement due to the slop... just saying like. Silly design by Vag.
I have the code p2015 in my 2013 Volkswagen GTI car but not even the mechanic knows how to solve it because I already changed the manifold and the code follows, please, can someone tell me what it could be to solve it, please, thank you
Hi, I have this air code rn… can you please help tell me if this will work with a VW Tiguan S 2015… I have no idea what I’m doing lol
It’s possible this would take care of the problem but it’s definitely a little bit of a gamble, to be 100% sure the problem is resolved replacing the intake manifold with the updated design will for sure take care of the issue,
Just ordered mine, my fuel economy is killing me while I've got this fault
is this fixed your problem ?
@@irvingarza1575 I just replaced the whole intake buddy, that fixed my problem. When I ordered this part they said it was on back order and wouldn't be delivered for two months so I just bought a brand new intake manifold
thanks
How much did it cost you for a brand new intake manifold with labour
@@tysonkhannyy4499 manifold was £400 labour was £120
If i want to buy the upgraded manifold. How do I know which one is it?
I don’t want to end up buying the same manifold I have and eventually find my self in the same spot.
Is there a link or something you can provide to buy the upgraded manifold?
My check engine light came up again after installing that thing. 😞
www.urotuning.com/products/intake-manifold-06j133201bh?currency=USD&variant=32188168437815&Google%20Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkqSlBhDaARIsAFJANkjNyzbPbKtqEiZ3mm9zJoNGmK6ISjGneEBdFF5FzKysmNAaInOK2-8aAs_CEALw_wcB
That’s the updated model
@@EuropeanAutoRepair thanks so much. Mi question now is, do I need to change the fuel rail too? And anything else from the manifold? Because they sell both the manifold itself and a manifold with screws, fuel rail and other things?
Or can I just buy the manifold and use the other components ?
You can pretty much just swap over the fuel rail without issue, the intake should be about all you need and some injector seals, I would clean those intake valves while you are in there
Awesome bro. Thanks so much for your help. Keep it posting, I think I’ll be buying another euro car soon and I like doing this jobs my self, is my hobby
Hey there! I just installed this last night, lever is free. Drove it a couple times today an same p2015 code but cleared it again. Any suggestions?
Bummer, it might be past the point of this repair saving it, likely you’ll end up replacing the intake manifold with the updated one
@@EuropeanAutoRepairdarn!! Great video! I'm going to check again if the lever is free. It's all drives fine and has been getting food mileage!
I'm about done with VW's. Had to replace our 2009, the engine block at 85,000k after timing chain tensioner went. Just replaced the differential/haldex at 130,000km and now this....very frustrating. All regular service intervals etc. not a happy camper.
@user-dn6kg4fj2h honestly I don’t blame you. A pleasure to drive these cars but they sure have issues
How can I order the part?
Very helpful video, just got the code and was hesitant on buying the part.
Any updates on if the code came back or not?
So far it's good. I'm feeling good about the repair. Thank you! Message me if you have any questions when installing
What’s the name or part number
I installed the part, but I'm still getting code on a 2012 VW cc. Perhaps I need to loosen the screws and check the layout of it but I believe it's parallel with the arm.
The code, I believe I installed the part parallel with the arm as it's supposed to be. I wonder if anyone else has had this issue
Will that part stop the air leak?
It should, it did on my personal vehicle
Does this work for a 2009 Tiguan S?
It should be same setup
Hi there, what's the name of this kit?Thanks.Ali
www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/vw-audi-p2015-20t-tsi-intake-manifold-lever-arm-fix-kit/021071ecs01~a/?gclid=CjwKCAjw04yjBhApEiwAJcvNoQSEYKV-gDmdpxLqRQCHkN47BEsRMlymDCSU6GiaRLYdmNhdOra5YxoCpt0QAvD_BwE
was gonna buy it but it says month and half till it'll come.. is there any other way?
I’m sorry I’m not really sure
@@EuropeanAutoRepair just gonna have to wait
damn
I put this on and cleared the code. And it still came back. Any suggestion?
I’m sorry to hear that, you are probably going to end up having to install the updated intake manifold
What is the name of the part on the ecs website ?
2.0T TSI Intake Manifold Lever Arm Fix Kit
Como puedo adquirir esa pieza
Does this fit to golf v 1.4tsi?
I’m not too sure on that, the golf mk5 here in the states only came with the 2.0tsi, 2.0fsi and 2.5
@@EuropeanAutoRepair Ye thats why I asked 😥 Do you know is there anything like that for 1.4tsi?
Nothing I know of, wish I could help
@Nogravity.sk1 how did you go getting one?
@@marvellousone203I didn’t get but found another type holder just by google intake manifold holder
Yoooo i really appreciate this video i will look into that part, my engine codes are: P2015 P0101 P0507 P2187 and lean P300 codes are they all caused by this piece??? I literally have a brand new intake manifold so the sensor is brand new
If you have a new intake manifold, then this shouldn’t be an issue.
What is the part call
Thank you so much!
No problem!
@@EuropeanAutoRepairDo you happen to have a video for a P2187 code and a P2293 code?
@TheWhimsicalKat is it a 2.0tsi engine? Is the bell housing area between the engine and transmission appear to be dry? Rear main seals are a pretty common cause on these
P2015 showed up today. Thank you so much for making this video! Is there anyway you could link the part? Definitely need to get it
www.ecstuning.com/News/Audi_VW_20T_TSI_Intake_Manifold_Lever_Fix_21071/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwidSWBhDdARIsAIoTVb2dmeeU13F8ej25nIOO8LyVIPYfaQzcrdYRuzvJa_feRzvSurYZ0bMaAoDPEALw_wcB
That's the one I went with. So far so good
Where can I buy? Link? Thank you
www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/vw-audi-p2015-20t-tsi-intake-manifold-lever-arm-fix-kit/021071ecs01~a/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6vaqBhCbARIsACF9M6niNzOIAdqm7SYwa26cr2yHYrkk5ndy3bmLbc-CSyMi-2qWnw1_C-EaAnzeEALw_wcB
Very good idea . Please from where this piece and it’s name
www.ecstuning.com/News/Audi_VW_20T_TSI_Intake_Manifold_Lever_Fix_21071/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwidSWBhDdARIsAIoTVb2dmeeU13F8ej25nIOO8LyVIPYfaQzcrdYRuzvJa_feRzvSurYZ0bMaAoDPEALw_wcB
Excelente
Can you drop a link for website and part?
www.ecstuning.com/News/Audi_VW_20T_TSI_Intake_Manifold_Lever_Fix_21071/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwidSWBhDdARIsAIoTVb2dmeeU13F8ej25nIOO8LyVIPYfaQzcrdYRuzvJa_feRzvSurYZ0bMaAoDPEALw_wcB
Look up p2015 on the site
Will this work for TDI
A company named dieselgeek makes one for some cjaa tdi applications
Where can I get this part?
Ecs tuning website
Hi,
Can I find this part in Europe ? Instead of ordering it in USA
I'm not sure on that
You can from the UK but I was able.to get it shipped from ECS and had it in a week