Dont worry, B is for Bollocks thought about it already. Its also flat and original curved and if it melts down, he can reverse it and have it nicely curved upwards when its cooled down. For one day at sema 😂😂😂
3D printing releases gasses and particulates that may be part of your headache issues. If you have not done so, I would recommend enclosures for your 3D printers with filters/exhaust.
he makes an announcement about losing a work day due to inhaling melted plastics fumes and calls for everyone to not slack on ventilation and respirators….then proceeds to continue plastic welding without any respirators and no obvious ventilation upgrades lol. I just hope they both realize that if the future of BFB is 3D printing plastic pieces for custom parts, they will need to really get serious abt it
Thick polycarb/acrylic rear louvers illuminated red like Tofu did with their taillights will be absolutely sick, I was already typing this when you started talking about in the video 😂. Edge lighting around the entire opening would help highlight it too.
I've been following Tofu for a very long time, I'm so glad he is getting the recognition he truly deserves! You both have awesome channels that yall should both be proud of!
I have found for a migraine headache 3 liquid gel Advil, 1 Benadryl, and 1 chelated magnesium works really well and cuts my migraines to less than a day of pain. You can get everything at walmart.
as a custom automotive light builder, might I suggest some 8mm UCS2903 led strips from next level neo (NLN), they are the brightest and longest lasting I have found. Then place them on the sides you have placed the bolts through, it should still shine bright enough through the diffusion. Then you would control them with either a “blueghozt lite” or an SP602E. and have some control with either a physical switch or wire the power through ignition or NLN does offer a battery saver on his site (this turns off the power to the lights when the ignition is off but allows you to override it with a remote for car shows) as the UCS2903 and any other addressable (color flow series) LED does draw some power even then not lit. DMs open.
Hi Chris, 6 in DA is only good for feathering paint. To really sand bondo flat, get an 8 inch sander. Back in the day we called them bondo hogs. Bondo hogs are different than DA’s. A DA does an orbital pattern, but does not turn the sanding pad. A bondo hog does both an orbital pattern and turns the pad. It really cuts bondo and makes it flat. 36 grit first, then finish with 80 grit. For long flat panels the 12” air board sanders worked great. Then spray on the feather fill and block it. Google bondo hog, you’ll see what I’m talking about.
Also, glazing puddy sucks for fixing dents. It’s only good for filling sanding marks in place of primer. It’s best used in very thin coats, almost smear it in to fill a deep scratch and then sand most of it off.
Really cool to see this project coming along! Can't wait to see what the full Cyberpunk version looks like. I love that you're talking with Tofu Autoworks. I've been following that channel for a while and it has been a masterclass in custom wide body construction.
I am loving your cyber punk idea, the Lexan louvers on the engine cover will look badass with the LEDs in my mind, might I also suggest you put transparent UV paint on the bare aluminum fins on the valve covers and the Lamborghini script as well as the throttle bodies or any other pieces you deem and have black lights under the engine cover.
Those parts are really impressive. You showed the cyberpunk themes a while ago and I figured you would stick with it. I’m glad you did, this car is going to be insane. Also haven’t watched Tofu in a while I really need to get back to that channel.
Furniture polish for plexiglass. DO NOT USE WINDEX. It is an abrasive and will scratch and haze the crap outta the Plexi. Furniture polish and a micro fibre towel. And maybe a second towel to polish away the "grease". Super excited for the build!!!
May sound crazy but, use fast set drywall compound on the plug. Super cheap, super easy to sand. Do all the high/low then prime and detail. It’s only a purpose is to get the mold..
You should have used evercoats polyester primer it drys in 30 min and can be worked in an hour. It uses a catalys and gose on super thick and is already tested with a wide coat
Thank you so much for the 3D printing and testing of different methods of prepping the panels for molds. This will save me so much time and effort on my own build. You ROCK!
No wonder you have Headaches with all the 3d printing going on in your house, move the printers into an extra room, get air purifiers / filters and dont be in the room while printing.
There is an ordinary cheap body filler that you can make sprayable by adding thinners . For large parts that are going to be used as a fiberglass mold a CNC router is a far better choice than a 3D printer
the dry wall filler is a bad idea, that stuff isn't' dimensionally stable, it loves to shrink and dry's over a really long time, even after you think it's done drying it can still shrink more, and it can get greatly effected by environment. especially when putting it on thick
You might want to consider using adhesion promoter. Plastics/fibreglass etc need something in between the filler and the material to ensure it sticks when the part flexes.
When I worked in a body shop we used to use the cans of spray on tint as guide coat, just lightly mist it on wait a minute or two and get to sanding and it worked surprisingly well. Made less of a mess than the dry stuff in my experience.
3D printers can't do curves. They approximate with lots of short lines. That's probably the "vertical banding" you saw. I believe you can change the resolution of the curve deviation in your slicer to minimise it 🤷 Great project - excited to see it finished
Modern Slicers actually do real curves. The input model just has to be high enough quality. You can check in the gcode for g2 and g3 commands. Those are curves. G0 and g1 are straight lines
@@komischertyp4 Yep but in the machine, my understanding is that a G2 is just turned into a series of straight lines. It's just offloading the work to the printers processor so that you can reduce file size and SD card stuttering
Some people mix Bondo with fiberglass resin to create a thin coating that's flexible and sands easily. This mixture can be used to hide the texture of fiberglass cloth or matt, and it can bond automotive parts quickly.
This man is the Bob Ross of automotive. Always calm and soft spoken. I can just listen to him talk about what he's doing and drift off to sleep lol. Love your work Chris
The acrylic/lexan will be affected by the heat off the motor particularly at idle at lights etc. I reckon it is likely to sag down towards the motor...
Next time buy the Fiberglass Evercoat 4 to 1 Superbuild. You can get the one that turns pink when it dries, it turns gray as you block so it acts as a guide coat. You also need to go too Harbor Freight or Northern Tool and get at least a 2.0 spray gun. I use a 2.3. You used a way too small of a tip for Polyester primer......I'm editing this because you figured out everything I said right at the end of the Vid. The U-Pol is also a great polyester filler! This is why I should wait to the end of the video to comment!!😁😁
Thank you for clarifying that you’d put it back to somewhat clean-ish state after sema, would hate to see it just sat in the back of your garage like the overly flared mustang and the burntacan. Love the channel and thanks for the awesomeness you put out .❤
He says wear respirators whenever heating plastic, end of the same video: joins plastic printed pieces together with no respirators B is for Beating cancer not making health worse in a different way, oof PPE always guys
The wavy surfaces of the print usually means there is some oscillation somewere. Usually with FDM printers that have one overhead gantry is that the fast motion of the moving assembly will cause vibrations in the entire gantry and deviate where the print nozzle actually needs to be. If the gantry isn't braced, I would suggest doing that. Or slow the print speed down a bit. I know it slows down your prototyping phase but it may save you time in sanding and waiting for bondo/spackling to dry
I'd suggest immediately wrapping the plexi in tinted PPF once fitting is completed and stored away safely. Plexi is notoriously scratch prone. Even with a fresh microfiber.
TIP: if you haven't tried it yet, add fiberglass resin to the body filler @ 5-10% to thin in out. It will lay down much better. You can find video's on youtube on this.
Love the look of the clear louvers but I don't like how you mounted them, looks thrown together, if its possible you should try to bond it flush with the oem louvers. Very excited to see where the car goes, love the concept!
The clear rear louvers is a great idea. Really shows off that motor. And the double use as LED break lights is brilliant. Still a lot of work to do, but looks like really on track with the body parts now. Great car for a cyberpunk theme. High tech, low life. Like cheap parts stolen from everywhere, but assembled into a technological masterpiece. Function over form is its own cool ascetic. In the end, better than the original that was hacked.
The heat from the engine will make the plexiglass deformed over time if you planning on driving the car too much but if it will be sitting just for show purposes it will be good
The striping you see in the printed parts might be aliasing from curves in the 3d model being turned into short segments of straight lines for the print head to move. There's probably a setting in your slicer to increase the number of line segments to make it smoother. It could also be your infill pattern showing through, which could be counteracted with thicker walls.
its just a build up pattern, like ripples in sand on a dune. It doesnt have much to do with the lines underneath other than the direction. But it sands out super fast so its not an issue.
I use the same resin you get for laying carbon fiber, it has some filling properties to mask the layerlines/aberration and the finish looks injection molded with a bit of patience and a keen eye. Having the "gelcoat" surface its ready to spray as well, plus having the surface tension leveling properties of the resin is a bonus. You get a lot of dripping at the edge but you can sand that off and then refinish by hand, never used it for a full body kit but I'm sure the principals still apply.
Man I been waiting for someone to build something like this its so obvious yet hasn't been done cos they are pricey cars...can't wait to see it... That Tofu guy is for sure the guy to have on-board. KHYZYL also needs to play a part somehow.
I'm doing something similar for my car. I'm printing in ASA and coating in epoxy resin with a pigment which gives a nice thick layer to sand smooth. I "glue" the parts using solvents (eg. ABS Cement) and plastic welding.
On the rear hatch, it be sick to have bars across, in a cyberpunk style. Like window shutter style or something like that. The plexiglass glass is kinda like the oem ones that use glass.
I’ve done a lot of body work and some molding work. You don’t need to do that much work on the mold. If you’re doing glass on top, it won’t show at all if you do like 3-4 layers. You want to save the time sanding and do all the hard work on the final piece. Also for a piece like that, vacuuming is critical.
Would it not work better to prep and use the under sides of the molds, then use a gelcoat or something to provide a better surface finish to the finished panel? Rather than applying fiberglass overtop and having to sand it all again. I assume you'd have to print the panel molds a certain percentage larger to have the negative space be the final dimensions.
if you use contrasting colours of filler primer its more noticeable for high and low spots if you use alternating colour coats because then you can tell by layer of how much youre sanding.
@@N1withaskillet maybe so but 3 years later my ironman helmet still looked perfect. And this example Chris only needs it to last the mold making process. At
Chris. I think that it's in the sand paper progression. For example if you go from 80 grit to 120 grit. I would go no more than 2 or 3000 grit. And then wet sand after work.
Creality K1 series move really fast and create surface artifacts. If you slow your machine down a little bit you will get a better finish. Slower printing yes but less post processing which is nice. Also change the layer order to inner/outer/inner. You will get a better surface finish and higher accuracy.
While the “supper glassy” on the engine vents look good, it’s been proven that the coarser grit sand paper you go with (within reason for looks obviously) the brighter the light will show through it. Just an FYI
You should look into the various JB Weld epoxy products. Very good for some of the work you're doing. Sandable, paintable, very strong. Things like the carbon fiber voids or assembling your 3D printed parts.
38:48 you can see Kyle simultaneously saying peace out in the back. 😂 we see you Kyle.
That was a great catch 🤣
I was going to say the same thing great catch! Semper Fi Brother!
Yup went back to watch that! That was cool
Just a thought. Once engine heat hits the plexi glass it may make it sag. Use polycarbonate and it may work better for your application.
Lexan is polycarbonate but I still think it’s going to sag
I was wondering the same exact thing
Dont worry, B is for Bollocks thought about it already. Its also flat and original curved and if it melts down, he can reverse it and have it nicely curved upwards when its cooled down. For one day at sema 😂😂😂
Name brand Lexan, not lexan as a type. Might be a heat reflective coating that would work. That would shatter glass
Transparent Aluminum? Thats the ticket ladddeee
Clear louvers over the engine looks great but you should do all 4, not just 2. All 4 would also have the same shape that way which looks better.
Side project: With all the 3D printers you have, have you considered printing a life-size fully functioning Oscar! 😂
3D printing releases gasses and particulates that may be part of your headache issues. If you have not done so, I would recommend enclosures for your 3D printers with filters/exhaust.
he makes an announcement about losing a work day due to inhaling melted plastics fumes and calls for everyone to not slack on ventilation and respirators….then proceeds to continue plastic welding without any respirators and no obvious ventilation upgrades lol. I just hope they both realize that if the future of BFB is 3D printing plastic pieces for custom parts, they will need to really get serious abt it
@@skbuch16 i saw that too and immediately facepalmed
this is true with some plastics but not all
PMMA (acrylic) fumes are way, way more toxic than PLA fumes are, guys.
Asa and abs for sure, pla is not as bad, but I still run my printers in a ventilated area.
Tofu Autoworks is an absolute visionary. So hype to hear they're involved
Just saw your post after posting link to Tofu - bloke has talent
I started watching your videos on the 240Z project. Your work ethic is amazing. Thank you for sharing all of this with us.
I love the idea of the clear panels on the rear hatch, but the flat vs curved panels stands out way too much
100% agree, almost looks like they are sagging, I love the concept tho
I agree, If he can find a way to curve them that would be perfect!
@@maxgulli9399he could bake them in an ovem and lay them on top of the original bit that he cut out
1000%, this is a Lamborghini, the subtle differences between the curve and flat luvers is defining
they will curve when i tighten down the bolts, i just didnt buy enough, but i tested it with my hand and itll flex
Thick polycarb/acrylic rear louvers illuminated red like Tofu did with their taillights will be absolutely sick, I was already typing this when you started talking about in the video 😂. Edge lighting around the entire opening would help highlight it too.
Tofu with the cyberpunk miata?
Just watched the rest of the vid 🙄
I've been following Tofu for a very long time, I'm so glad he is getting the recognition he truly deserves! You both have awesome channels that yall should both be proud of!
It was a V12 engine, not hiding anymore :p
@@rockdaddio69agreed. Works well when in the middle of one. Nortriptyline works as a daily to keep them at bay in my experience.
Is it at least an audi v8
Yes been there with Nortriptyline
@@kewunthomas3773no this car is before Audi partnered with Lamborghini
I have found for a migraine headache 3 liquid gel Advil, 1 Benadryl, and 1 chelated magnesium works really well and cuts my migraines to less than a day of pain. You can get everything at walmart.
as a custom automotive light builder, might I suggest some 8mm UCS2903 led strips from next level neo (NLN), they are the brightest and longest lasting I have found. Then place them on the sides you have placed the bolts through, it should still shine bright enough through the diffusion. Then you would control them with either a “blueghozt lite” or an SP602E. and have some control with either a physical switch or wire the power through ignition or NLN does offer a battery saver on his site (this turns off the power to the lights when the ignition is off but allows you to override it with a remote for car shows) as the UCS2903 and any other addressable (color flow series) LED does draw some power even then not lit. DMs open.
Hi Chris, 6 in DA is only good for feathering paint. To really sand bondo flat, get an 8 inch sander. Back in the day we called them bondo hogs. Bondo hogs are different than DA’s. A DA does an orbital pattern, but does not turn the sanding pad. A bondo hog does both an orbital pattern and turns the pad. It really cuts bondo and makes it flat. 36 grit first, then finish with 80 grit. For long flat panels the 12” air board sanders worked great. Then spray on the feather fill and block it. Google bondo hog, you’ll see what I’m talking about.
Also, glazing puddy sucks for fixing dents. It’s only good for filling sanding marks in place of primer. It’s best used in very thin coats, almost smear it in to fill a deep scratch and then sand most of it off.
Really cool to see this project coming along! Can't wait to see what the full Cyberpunk version looks like.
I love that you're talking with Tofu Autoworks. I've been following that channel for a while and it has been a masterclass in custom wide body construction.
I am loving your cyber punk idea, the Lexan louvers on the engine cover will look badass with the LEDs in my mind, might I also suggest you put transparent UV paint on the bare aluminum fins on the valve covers and the Lamborghini script as well as the throttle bodies or any other pieces you deem and have black lights under the engine cover.
Good for you for trying stuff and not worrying that it might be a silly idea. Very inspirational.
Kyle in the background at the end doing the "Synchronized Peace Dunk"
Those parts are really impressive.
You showed the cyberpunk themes a while ago and I figured you would stick with it. I’m glad you did, this car is going to be insane.
Also haven’t watched Tofu in a while I really need to get back to that channel.
Furniture polish for plexiglass. DO NOT USE WINDEX. It is an abrasive and will scratch and haze the crap outta the Plexi. Furniture polish and a micro fibre towel. And maybe a second towel to polish away the "grease".
Super excited for the build!!!
May sound crazy but, use fast set drywall compound on the plug. Super cheap, super easy to sand. Do all the high/low then prime and detail. It’s only a purpose is to get the mold..
Cma here to say the same thing. 5 minute will give you coverage and dry quick!
You should have used evercoats polyester primer it drys in 30 min and can be worked in an hour. It uses a catalys and gose on super thick and is already tested with a wide coat
that was the first one we used, the feather fill
Thank you so much for the 3D printing and testing of different methods of prepping the panels for molds. This will save me so much time and effort on my own build. You ROCK!
i like the led defused engine cover panels idea, i think it will look sick in the dark!
No wonder you have Headaches with all the 3d printing going on in your house, move the printers into an extra room, get air purifiers / filters and dont be in the room while printing.
It's gonna be awsome Chris!
I love that creative view you have for this project!
Love how kyle went for that synced "peace" motion in the end.
I do dig the “Mad Merci” name. That’s dope.
I vote "No Merci"
There is an ordinary cheap body filler that you can make sprayable by adding thinners .
For large parts that are going to be used as a fiberglass mold a CNC router is a far better choice than a 3D printer
Great work as always. You definitely need the sanding booth, with good dust extraction 👊🏼👍🏼
thx Chris, for the deep dive into 3D printing and prepping for molds. Interesting topic and cool that one can really do DYI body parts!
the dry wall filler is a bad idea, that stuff isn't' dimensionally stable, it loves to shrink and dry's over a really long time, even after you think it's done drying it can still shrink more, and it can get greatly effected by environment. especially when putting it on thick
You might want to consider using adhesion promoter. Plastics/fibreglass etc need something in between the filler and the material to ensure it sticks when the part flexes.
When I worked in a body shop we used to use the cans of spray on tint as guide coat, just lightly mist it on wait a minute or two and get to sanding and it worked surprisingly well. Made less of a mess than the dry stuff in my experience.
Looks amazing Chris!! Wish you all the best can’t wait to see it finished. You’re such an inspiration to us!
3D printers can't do curves. They approximate with lots of short lines. That's probably the "vertical banding" you saw. I believe you can change the resolution of the curve deviation in your slicer to minimise it 🤷
Great project - excited to see it finished
Modern Slicers actually do real curves. The input model just has to be high enough quality.
You can check in the gcode for g2 and g3 commands. Those are curves. G0 and g1 are straight lines
@@komischertyp4 Yep but in the machine, my understanding is that a G2 is just turned into a series of straight lines. It's just offloading the work to the printers processor so that you can reduce file size and SD card stuttering
Some people mix Bondo with fiberglass resin to create a thin coating that's flexible and sands easily. This mixture can be used to hide the texture of fiberglass cloth or matt, and it can bond automotive parts quickly.
I’d worry about the melting point of those back panels. I’d imagine the v12 would be pretty hot.
This man is the Bob Ross of automotive. Always calm and soft spoken. I can just listen to him talk about what he's doing and drift off to sleep lol. Love your work Chris
Bob Ross knew what he was doing...
@@lpatierno84You beat me to it.
Nah, as much as i love what Chris is doing and support him 100%, the "Bob Ross of Automotive" tittle belongs to Derek from Vice Grip Garage.
B is for Build, not Bob Ross.
@@joealex65happy little small block Chevy
This will be an amazing build! Glad u are back doing the stuff your self, lest gooo
I love these videos man! Don't let the haters get to you!
The acrylic/lexan will be affected by the heat off the motor particularly at idle at lights etc. I reckon it is likely to sag down towards the motor...
Feather fill and upol primer is the best stuff man, use that on every project. About time to use good materials
Next time buy the Fiberglass Evercoat 4 to 1 Superbuild. You can get the one that turns pink when it dries, it turns gray as you block so it acts as a guide coat. You also need to go too Harbor Freight or Northern Tool and get at least a 2.0 spray gun. I use a 2.3. You used a way too small of a tip for Polyester primer......I'm editing this because you figured out everything I said right at the end of the Vid. The U-Pol is also a great polyester filler! This is why I should wait to the end of the video to comment!!😁😁
Sorry you got sick, that sucks. Build is looking cool, and I certainly love all the 3D printing!
Awesome B!! Great progress man!! Looking forward to the Cyborginni!!! 😎🔥💪🏼💯
Im buying a Tofu Auto Works wide body kit for my miata once they become available!!!! Soo awesome to see him work with you
Thank you for clarifying that you’d put it back to somewhat clean-ish state after sema, would hate to see it just sat in the back of your garage like the overly flared mustang and the burntacan. Love the channel and thanks for the awesomeness you put out .❤
He says wear respirators whenever heating plastic, end of the same video: joins plastic printed pieces together with no respirators
B is for Beating cancer not making health worse in a different way, oof
PPE always guys
The wavy surfaces of the print usually means there is some oscillation somewere. Usually with FDM printers that have one overhead gantry is that the fast motion of the moving assembly will cause vibrations in the entire gantry and deviate where the print nozzle actually needs to be. If the gantry isn't braced, I would suggest doing that. Or slow the print speed down a bit. I know it slows down your prototyping phase but it may save you time in sanding and waiting for bondo/spackling to dry
we miss Oscar by the way.
Where is he?
I'd suggest immediately wrapping the plexi in tinted PPF once fitting is completed and stored away safely. Plexi is notoriously scratch prone. Even with a fresh microfiber.
TIP: if you haven't tried it yet, add fiberglass resin to the body filler @ 5-10% to thin in out. It will lay down much better. You can find video's on youtube on this.
Love the look of the clear louvers but I don't like how you mounted them, looks thrown together, if its possible you should try to bond it flush with the oem louvers. Very excited to see where the car goes, love the concept!
Thank you for developing this method and sharing it.
I've missed seeing these body work videos. Those panels look boss!
Your channel needs Oscar!
The clear rear louvers is a great idea. Really shows off that motor. And the double use as LED break lights is brilliant.
Still a lot of work to do, but looks like really on track with the body parts now. Great car for a cyberpunk theme. High tech, low life.
Like cheap parts stolen from everywhere, but assembled into a technological masterpiece. Function over form is its own cool ascetic.
In the end, better than the original that was hacked.
Cool build idea! Looking forward to follow it!
Very excited to see how this turns out. Very cool direction
38:48 Kyle doing the outro gesture! You guys are awesome
Those body panels are looking so good, can't wait to see how the final forms turn out!
Bro, big respect. I felt like this was one of your earlier videos that I subscribed to
Hey so one tip on spackle - mix in a few drops of dish soap to make the finish smoother. 👍👍
The heat from the engine will make the plexiglass deformed over time if you planning on driving the car too much but if it will be sitting just for show purposes it will be good
on the acrlyic you can also etch/ sand blast logos into them that the light can catch on, I've done this using 1/2" and it works amazing.
Great to work with TOFU - he's a great Kiwi fab man. 1000 points man.
cyberpunk theme is actually going to be so good with the merci W
The striping you see in the printed parts might be aliasing from curves in the 3d model being turned into short segments of straight lines for the print head to move. There's probably a setting in your slicer to increase the number of line segments to make it smoother. It could also be your infill pattern showing through, which could be counteracted with thicker walls.
its just a build up pattern, like ripples in sand on a dune. It doesnt have much to do with the lines underneath other than the direction. But it sands out super fast so its not an issue.
I use the same resin you get for laying carbon fiber, it has some filling properties to mask the layerlines/aberration and the finish looks injection molded with a bit of patience and a keen eye. Having the "gelcoat" surface its ready to spray as well, plus having the surface tension leveling properties of the resin is a bonus. You get a lot of dripping at the edge but you can sand that off and then refinish by hand, never used it for a full body kit but I'm sure the principals still apply.
Man I been waiting for someone to build something like this its so obvious yet hasn't been done cos they are pricey cars...can't wait to see it... That Tofu guy is for sure the guy to have on-board. KHYZYL also needs to play a part somehow.
Thanks for sharing this
a lot of "How to " in this video
great work
can't wait for the next one
I'm doing something similar for my car. I'm printing in ASA and coating in epoxy resin with a pigment which gives a nice thick layer to sand smooth. I "glue" the parts using solvents (eg. ABS Cement) and plastic welding.
On the rear hatch, it be sick to have bars across, in a cyberpunk style. Like window shutter style or something like that. The plexiglass glass is kinda like the oem ones that use glass.
Hell yeh! Make it a Cyberpunk build. It’s gonna be badass
B is for Build is Mat Armstrong from aliexpress while Mat was already aliexpress, which is really bad :D but i love it!
I’ve done a lot of body work and some molding work. You don’t need to do that much work on the mold. If you’re doing glass on top, it won’t show at all if you do like 3-4 layers. You want to save the time sanding and do all the hard work on the final piece. Also for a piece like that, vacuuming is critical.
Would it not work better to prep and use the under sides of the molds, then use a gelcoat or something to provide a better surface finish to the finished panel? Rather than applying fiberglass overtop and having to sand it all again. I assume you'd have to print the panel molds a certain percentage larger to have the negative space be the final dimensions.
Always add material to 3D prints before sanding smooth
if you use contrasting colours of filler primer its more noticeable for high and low spots if you use alternating colour coats because then you can tell by layer of how much youre sanding.
Sanding while wearing the Jordan 4 Lightnings is hilarious lol
Glazing puddy goes on super smooth very easy to sand. Have used many times making Cos play stuff on a 3d printer. Best way to cover those layer lines.
Glazing putty is not a solid base, it's for pinholes and fisheyes before final coats.
@@N1withaskillet maybe so but 3 years later my ironman helmet still looked perfect. And this example Chris only needs it to last the mold making process. At
I LOVE this build!!! Get it guys!❤
Is it a good idea to use plexi vs polycarbonate? Not sure how much more expensive that would be but Plexiglas can be fairly brittle right?
Chris. I think that it's in the sand paper progression. For example if you go from 80 grit to 120 grit. I would go no more than 2 or 3000 grit. And then wet sand after work.
Oh man, this thing is going to look so cool! It is very exciting!
cool video, interesting progress, loved it!
Creality K1 series move really fast and create surface artifacts. If you slow your machine down a little bit you will get a better finish. Slower printing yes but less post processing which is nice. Also change the layer order to inner/outer/inner. You will get a better surface finish and higher accuracy.
Love that Tofu is involved. I love his work (more the Sky-gea, but the MX-5 is mega)
I really like that you can see the engine even more than in a normal bat, Aventador style, I like the idea
Tofu is a master craftsman. Taught me everything abt molds etc.
If you want a really smooth edge of plexiglas,sand it then burn the edge with open torch, try on small piece, done that a lot, great job by the way
No need to polish the lexan, when you hit it with a flame it turns clear in an instant.
Except “hitting it with a flame” not only risks melting the panel, it also pulls oils from the plastic which will destroy faster over time.
You need spray able putty filler, that is the best way to go. Then body filler after blocking.
You deserve the support! Good luck with that mess lol.
Can you crown the clear lexan engine cover a little bit? It has a droop to it.
Now you gonna get many orders from other Lambo owners to have the clear view glas.. you can do it.. it looks sooo good!😍👍
Quick question: Wouldn’t it be easier to just print molds? You could easily make them in CAD, right?
While the “supper glassy” on the engine vents look good, it’s been proven that the coarser grit sand paper you go with (within reason for looks obviously) the brighter the light will show through it. Just an FYI
You should look into the various JB Weld epoxy products. Very good for some of the work you're doing. Sandable, paintable, very strong. Things like the carbon fiber voids or assembling your 3D printed parts.
Skim with filler then block and prime they will be perfect use some
Linear blocks it’s all I do on the restorations. Best wishes