These TWO things will help SAVE your Ecodiesel!
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- Check out this channel regarding soot blocking oil passages.
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In this video, I explain why these main bearings seem to let go in the ecodiesel. You need to disable the EGR and install an oil catch can. These trucks appear to suffer from pre-oil contamination (as do most modern diesel's).
If you have any more information regarding these engine failures please post below.
I have a 2016 ecodiesel. Currently 170,000km and she purrs along the hyw. Runs smooth and sounds great. No delete. I tow fully loaded tt at about 6000lbs. I get about 15ltr/100k towing. Don't over tow with the eco, stay well under max and go easy and it will tow much smoother than the hemi. Some things I do... #1; its not a hemi. Don't drive it like a hemi. #2; Change oil every 8-10k I use added friction modifier. #3 these are Hwy engines, not city, these are meant to work and drive, not a daily retired guy driving 25km a week and tow a fishing boat on weekends! #4; it's a diesel... clean oil, clean air, clean fuel. #5; it's not a hemi, don't drive it like a hemi. #6; clean map sensor and egr tube every 20k. #7 I have a custom tune (non delete) adding about 60hp and 60tq, very little turbo lag, lots of power, #7 warm it up, start driving slow for a few mins. #8 let engine idle for 30sec before shut off, up to 2min if working hard, let the oil get thru the turbos before shut off. #9 don't idle too much. #10 it's not a hemi..... ... I will do a catch can soon. (I have one on another vehicle) I get an average of 9.3l/100k as tracked on fuelly. I drive 100/105km/hr on hyw. I tow at 100km/hr max on hyw. I love the eco, smooth and steady. But it's a dirty engine which is why ppl delete egr. Expensive repairs, but so is every deisel.
All good advice!. So.....
It's not a hemi??
I know lots of guys race these trucks around and I totally agree with ya
@@GilbertGardens lol.... In a recent survey I just made up for this comment; 90% of eco haters are former hemi owners who thought they could drive it like a hemi... I heard somewhere 'the ecodiesel hauls and the hemi hauls ass'! Another 8% of eco haters saved $50 and bought cheap oil and went 16k between changes cause the dashboard said to and the engine seized. The last 2% are the unlucky ones who got a shitty engine that failed.
@@ChrisB-ny5zr yeah I agree with that. The twin turbos look sick but if I want to go fast... I'll jump on my gsxr 1000 lol
I have a 2016 as well with 140k on it the only issue I have is transmission over heating on road trips if I have a heavy foot . Runs great though
People driving a diesel like a hassle is most of the problem. Get a diesel warm and keep it warm.
I run a catch can too and after sending it out for analyses mine came back 50% combustion products ie: fuel 30% oil and 20% water. EGR "soot" is the biggest killer to these engines in conjunction with the stupid stock tuning using excessive pilot injection to keep the diesel rattle down, even more "soot". I have run a GDE egr delete tune with stock exhaust DPF and SCR on my 2016 from new and now have 195,000km with zero engine issues. I run 14,000km between oil changes and am maybe 1/2 a liter down then. I have sent my oil out for analysis every oil change, have not seen any bearing material or excessive wear metals in any of the samples. For even cleaner burning, "less soot". The use of centane booster as these are European diesels and the diesel over in Europe is a minimum 50 centane. In north America its 40 - 45.
Yeah I've heard that too. I'm usually running 12 to 16k between changes too now. I'm due to send an oil sample in as well. I don't do it often UT it's a good idea. I'm at 245,000 ish on the O.G 2014
I just picked up (I'm the second owner) a 2014 EcoDiesel Jeep Grand Cherokee... been researching the engine... this thing is a little torque monster :)
Yeah for it's age it had quite a bit. These new GM 3L diesels have a bit more torqu... my inlaws just bought one I'll be test driving it vs these ecodiesels
Yeah ok awesome.
Caterpillar was the only engine manufacturer that pulled the input gasses for the EGR from after the after treatment system. According to Adept Ape, this was a major improvement.
Cat knows
The newest gen Ecodiesel pulls EGR downstream of the DPF which was said to prevent a lot of the issues the earlier gen had.
@@mikelemoine4267 Good news but it does seem as though most of the soot problems were avoidable.
@@davidmitchell7183 Yes I think some of the soot issues are simply due to the PCV coating the intake with oil film and then the EGR opening and dumping super heated gasses and carbon particles into the mix which creates a tarry sludge in the manifold and on the swirl valves. That alone doesn't pollute into the oil, but I suspect it has an effect on how clean the engine burns, and it's also possible that chunks get ingested. Even if they don't scrape up the cylinder walls, I'd imagine it adds compression and possible detonation.
I think turbo heat cooking the oil at shutdown is also an issue if people don't let them cool a bit after running hard. I wish they had an electric bypass pump that would keep oil flowing for a few minutes after shutdown to prevent heat soaking the oil in the turbo. It'd be nice to run it on the fuel pump prime circuit too as it would help with cold starts. Maybe the aftermarket will develop something.
You could also add a Bypass Oil Filter. Amsoil makes a good one.
Dieselcraft sells a centrifuge bypass filter that will remove soot from the oil.
When you checked the oil you should pull the dipstick and then put it back in because it’s sealed at the top with an o ring not letting oil up the tube. I checked my oil before like that and thought it was low but you check again and it’ll go from min to max. Also that air intake is way worse than a stock intake
I have a 2014 Ecodiesel. I'm 2nd owner have had original owners records. Everything done on time and by dealership. Then I bought it with 74k miles. In 2017 all services and recalls done on time. 2 things I do is sticktion modifier every 3 rd oil change and edt every fuel fill up. And I use 11qt every oil change. So far no blow by or oil used. So 3 years and almost 80k miles.
Thanks for the vids! I like your homestead content ...... I've been thinking about changing my oil filter every 5k and oil every 10k because I've been noticing the filter is quite plugged by 8k... I believe a clean filter allows oil pressure and flow. Which helps this picky engines... I think the oil is still good at 10k, but filter is plugged. No way I would go more than 10k between oil changes on this dirty engine. I think going 12-16k as the computer says is not good! Too much soot.
On a stock engine I agree. I sent oil away for testing at 26k and they said it was super clean. They said I Could go 20k...now the filters I agree with. I still run 16k intervals since it's been working with my setup I don't want to change. Thanks for the kind words brother safe travels
Ive got a 2016 Chevy Colorado with the 2.8 Duramax. I like the truck and the diesel but it was annoying because of the constant regens so I deleted my egr as well and it only regens 2 times per tank istead of 3. Also having clean oil and clean filter as well. ive got 170,000km on it so far with no issues
Nice my in laws just bought a 2021 gmc with the small diesel. Going to do a walk around in a week or so
The key to longevity in any diesel , is cooling the turbo before shutdown. Most people drive the 1/2 ton diesels like a gas engine. I drive mostly highway miles, with little idle time. I do use Hot Shots Secret products in the oil and fuel. Especially the Stiction Eliminator.
Another problem that the Ecodiesel has is the filter in the block. If the filter is removed after the drain plug is put back in. The oil is still in the engine. Also the oil dipstick can give a false level indication. If you don't allow enough time for the oil to get to the pan. The 3rd generation engine has an 8 quart capacity, rather than 10 quarts. Even my dealer has overfilled the crankcase.
I have not used my 2016 Ram 1500 Ecodiesel much in the past year. But it still has 158,000 miles. And is a smoother ride than our 2018 Ram 2500 Cummins beast. Much better in the snow too. The Cummins has too much torque.
How do I cool the turbo before shutdown?
@@pwp5741 Basically reduce the heat. Typically idle for 2 minutes. But also when a tractor trailer pulls off the highway. As soon as the speed control is released. And deceleration is happening. The turbo is cooling. The idea is not to accelerate hard from that point.
@@zxej6879 that is for answering.
I use a gallon of water and I just pour the whole thing onto my turbo before I turn the engine off. Works a charm
I have a 200 provent catch can on my 23' Jeep Wrangler Ecodiesel. Love it and it works 💪
Any codes on the 23 ??
Just about to buy a diesel Gladiator, very much appreciate this video. I’m running a diesel Liberty right now & a Cetane improver & fuel system conditioner seem to help the Liberty.
very nice
Nice I got a gladiator with some good bang for the buck investments. I'm Stage 1 EOC with Transtune, it's a whole other beast after the tune. I would go DEF off and Switch on the Fly maps from EOC.
I use HotShots for the same reason, small expense compared to the vehicle and mods. LX4 and EDT. I also reccomend Amsoil MS...I know it sounds like snake oil, but if you look at UOA it has amazing anti wear properties. There's a few other oil that's do the same too. Amsoil won't evaporate as easy as cheap oil so there's that, and oil change interval is long on these vehicles so it's best to have something good in them. Early oil changes are bad, (you can research why), best to install a fumoto valve and just sample it and get it tested if you're a maintance freak....and it'll probably say let it go to 10k miles. Main thing is testing, I bought Amsoil FS and the guys on the testing page said it's ok but MS is significantly better according to tests - is the specific engine oil combo not a brand - real world testing.
Oil bypass with cooling radiator ,oil catchcan with extra air filter. Delete too,
Plus suspension adjustment ,shocks, pouleritan bushing, .....
remove the spare wheel, remove the front hook on the bumper, remove the tank DEF .
rigid body stabilization , and a front stabilizer bar under the hood . Put tires without a cord, and 5-spoke light sports wheels. all this will lead to a reduction in the weight of the track .. plus the purity of the oil, plus the alignment of the center of gravity. saving 3-5 liters, plus there is no loss of power when turning. oil operating temperature drops, and coolant too.
Bought a brand new eco in 2018, changed the oil early after 2500 miles engine still had bearing failure at 9500 after just 7000 miles on the new oil. Friends truck followed the standard intervals and is on his second replacement engine at 50k miles.
bearings failed at 2500 miles ? brand new?
Crazy I just got my 2017 to 271k before head gasket blew.
I've got catch can's on all my vehicles. I have been using them for years, I think all vehicles should have them.
I have a 2022 Jeep JL Rubicon Ecodiesel and I've been looking at oil catch can, EGR & DPF lately because I too want to keep it forever
Agreed the emissions system including the factory tune especially since the AEM government detune is killing these trucks. The EGR soot & Asphaltine (unburnt diesel hard particles) recirculator is clogging oiling ie lubrication passages. What else irks me is that it’s proven that the EGR is not required to meet emissions outputs but our out of control EPA overlords insist on it anyway. That style gov wants us on tax payer paid trains bicycles & battery cars anyway.
The silver lining for the 14/15/16 models was that we got $3,150 for doing the AEM which smartly could be put toward a much cleaner aftermarket tune that also turns the EGR off. Green Diesel Engineering, HD diesel, & SKT sofa king tuned offer these at about $1k for both an engine and transmission tune.
After which your oil starts to get dark around 8k miles instead of 2,500 miles. Miraculously the orange check engine light will no longer send you to the dealer service bay for piddly stuff. Mileage & power improve and you can get the benefit of a computer controlled engine brake. A great safety feature that is very reassuring when you tow in mountainous regions. I transport travel trailers & boats from Mfgrs to dealerships commercially with my 14 ED so I really benefit from this feature.
After an aftermarket tune and with proper maintenance the ED turns into a reliable fuel efficient lil motor. Once you install an aftermarket tune you can also do an EGR COOLER delete with no codes and since EGR is turned off you no longer need it. The EGR cooler is also prone to leak internally sending coolant out your pipes which causes more problems or worse melts a hole in the plastic intake after which the coolant burns a super hot fire that torches the truck beyond what an extinguisher can handle. Thank you EPA.
My first motor tuned at 30k went 371,000 miles before pushing a head gasket. Likely due to low coolant from a leaking EGR cooler which caused hot spots steam & pressure to push the gasket out. Head gaskets are a non cost effective fix IMO. I put a new motor in as it come with new turbo, high pressure fuel pump & injectors plus a 24 month unlimited mile warranty. None of which would I have gotten with new head gaskets. My 2nd motor has 359,000 miles tuned from day one. Personally no warranty concerns from using a tune despite that technically it can be used to void warranty if Ram could prove the tune caused the failure. I don’t know of any such cases in fact better motor life means less replacement motors for FCA. I’d rather invest in trouble free operation & longevity than hope to collect on a warranty before it expires anyway. Friend James who is also a transporter has 390,000 miles on his tuned ED. Don’t hate on this great lil motor or FCA if you’re having emissions driven issues hate on the EPA then invest in a tune.
EDIT Motor made it 423,000 and cracked a head without any severe overheat. James has 452,000 on his still ticking. Ram1500diesel.com and car-part.com being some great resources in keeping her on the road cost effectively.
very well spoken. man thats a ton of miles you put on. drive safe. I appreciate the insight.
Vern, you DPF DELETED as well? Or you just EGR and stock DPF?
I got emissions for sale if anyone needs em. Ontario GTA area.
@@throughthesmoke3188 Didn’t have to do a full delete until years after the base tune. No need to do the full delete until & if you have issues.
Thanks for Sharing! I haven’t read to many success stories with this amount of miles on an Eco. Glad to hear it and I look forward to deleting mine soon.
That's something to think about, some very good points. I guess the proof is in pulling the tubes and seeing exactly what is happening, is oil passing, yes or no. To be honest I have not looked at mine yet but I "fixed" the other issue. Jacques Ferreira's tear down video was extremely revealing. Around 3:23 in his video you can see clearly carbonized oil blocking the passage to the main bearing. Of course FCA changing oil spec in 2015/2016 and oil capacity somewhere in 2014/2015 may also have be a contributing factor. I have a 2016 using Rotella T6 5W-40 at 10.5 quarts/10 liters with 120km/75k miles. In general with turbo diesels the consensus seems to be a catch can is a worthy investment.
yeah for sure. Im going to check it again at 16,000 KM and see if there is anymore. After awhile I find no more oil in the catch can. Basically the truck has pumped out what it needs to lol.
@@GilbertGardens You may want to link your other video on the catch can from Jan 29 2019 ruclips.net/video/O2uy0tROQPw/видео.html I found that informative as well in terms of visualizing how you installed things and what the inside of the can looks like. Thanks again for posting this. Got me thinking about it now :)
Adding a Cleaning friction modifier like archoil or hot shots stiction/fr3 helps gently clean the inside as you drive, and helps with this oil sludge issue.
@@ChrisB-ny5zr do you have any actual proof of that? I've always been sceptical if additives. Just curious.
@@GilbertGardens so, the proof I have for myself is this, it may seem crazy, but it's what I see with my own eyes, not lab tested .. ... I put the used oil in a clear container, I shake it up and then leave it. Without friction modifier the upper sides of the clear container stay black. With the friction modifier they are clear. So the oil is sliding down easily. Also, the used oil feels really slick. I'm using that to assume it's similar inside the engine? I like to think it helps keep soot from sticking... Maybe it's $30 extra per oil change for peace of mind? I do it myself so I save on dealer prices. Also, the engine sounds different, deeper, smoother, a little more diesel growl.
My bmw m57 diesel oil would go black after 100km of driving. And i sold it at 430k kms. Original engine and tranny, it was tuned to 360hp and 470lbs from 200k kms
I bought a new 2015 ED and as soon as I got it home I dropped the factory oil and used Lubrimoly toptec 4200 with a qt of lucas synthetic oil stabilizer. I deleted the truck at 40k miles because I couldn't keep it out of the dealership. Turns out the MAP sensor was getting coked up and needed to be cleaned about every 10k miles. I figured that out myself the dealership just kept flashing the computer. Anyhow, I got rid of the truck with 300k and it had NO blow-by at the oil fill cap. I never used a catch can. At 300k miles it was turning 28mpg on highway trips on 285/70's. I used a GDE off road tune. The truck was great. Get the delete.
Waterpump at 100k miles, fuel filters at 30k, in tank fuel pump max 150k miles (130k would be better).
did you ever check the intercooler piping? the cap trick works great doesnt mean theres no blow by. either way 300K is awesome glad to hear a good story
@@GilbertGardens I never checked the intercooler piping. However, for the time that I owned it the joints were always dry. I should say I never took the intercooler piping apart to specifically look for oil residue. I would pull the top turbo charge pipe off to do the water pump. For the amount of room there is between the engine and the radiator there's a fair bit of work to get at the water pump. Not a bad job though.
Don't let your water pump go much over 100k (miles) When I did mine the larger o-rings were all cracked and broke when I removed them. That was at about two years old. So I don't know if its a time thing or a miles thing. I'm guessing its a miles(heat) thing. Obviously, they're either the wrong material or poor material. I haven't heard that they've been addressed. Be careful.
Here's a link to information regarding water pump replacement. I know the guy that wrote the process REAL good. www.ram1500diesel.com/threads/2015-replaced-water-pump-today.65706/
Like I said the truck was great. First set of brakes I replaced at 162,000 miles and it was close to needing brakes when I sold it. Other than that everything on the truck was original even the shocks, CV axles, hub assemblies, u-joints. I NEVER got that kind of mileage out of anything. Michelin LTX A/T2 tires would get 70k miles with very light towing. The truck went down the road like it was on rails. No road vibration no truck vibration.
I work for a pipeline engineering and inspection company so i chase work all over the North East.
@@Elkmonger very helpful . I need some front end work on my ram hoping it's just tie rods and lower ball joints but I'll be jacking it up this weekend. Appreciate the post. 🍻
@@GilbertGardens Ha I just helped a buddy find a nasty vibration in his 2015 RAM 1500 Gasser. Slight vibration weeks ago. Wheel bearings feel tight, CV axles are a little loose at the differential. We pulled the CV axles. Driver side was a B!#ch. The little stub axle came out with the CV axle which meant we needed to remove top AND bottom ball joints to get it apart. Ran the truck without CV axles for a couple days and vibes the same. Bearings check tight. Ran a few more hundred miles. Vibes noticeably worse. Bearings check tight. Ran a few more hundred miles. Vibes noticeably worse. Driver side wheel bearing has very slight up and down play. Pull the hub assemble. It's horrible. Pull the passenger assembly. It's tight but sounds horrible. Replace with new. We installed new CV axles too. The splines on the original CV axle were rusted and loose. Like the splines were rusted and worn away. Passenger side axle was fine. The driver side stub axle was rough and we sledge hammer molested it trying to get it out of the CV axle. Bought a new one at NAPA and it was nothing like the original. Picked one up at the RAM dealership for almost the same price. Put it all together and it's good as new.
We installed new NAPA premium (FAG brand) wheel bearings, Napa Premium CV axles, RAM stub axle with new RAM oil seal, and new ball joint dust cover.
IF you find yourself in this situation get ball joint dust caps, and stub axle and oil seal BEFORE you start the work. The originals are probably gonna get ruined. The universal dust covers are a close enough match if you can't find originals.
There's some RUclips videos showing guys simply pulling the CV axle off the center section spline. DO NOT TRY THIS. It ended up horribly for us. Get under the truck and hammer them off. There's a retaining ring in there you'll need to overcome that can get pretty tight with rust and grime. Use some constant tension and light taps that may need to progress to full on two handed swings beating it like it owes you money to get it apart. That's when the stub axle came out. There's no stub axle on the passenger side.
Good luck.
@@Elkmonger jebus. I hope mind comes apart just fine if need be. ill keep ya posted
I have one of these diesels it’s a 2018 and I’ve always liked the ram HD with the Cummins. Heaving said this, I have always rejected the Ford power strokes because of the multiple problems that owners have to deal with. They have to bulletproof them in order for them to be reliable. The same has to be done to these ecodiesels, Enough is enough! Why should we have to be buying this garbage product? Let us not continue enabling these manufacturers to produce these garbage products that have to be made reliable by the end users. The only way to fix this problem is for us to boycott these manufacturers by not buying their trash. This I assure you will fix the problem from the root.
How’s she holding up I just bought a 1500 Laramie eco-diesel last weekend, only 33k miles on it
The eco diesel biggest issue is that they took an non emission engine that has been great for decades and then shoved emissions on it. My first engine blew at 134,000 for the main barring.new engine has been deleted from KM 0 and has been running great since
If you clean your diffuser regularly then there will be no soot collection to fall off. It's very light when I do it at every oil change. No build up
Mine seized at 62000km and I ran shell 5w40 t6 oil in it.
sorry to hear that. what oil change interval did you go with?
@@GilbertGardens I changed the oil according to the oil life monitor, usually when there was 10 to 15% left, about 12000 km
good video, for the oil catch can, why aren't people just venting them to atmosphere like a 5.9 Cummins? why feed it back into the engine at all with or without catch can
Lots of these new trucks have sensors. The truck knows there's a pressure change or something. Plus I'd have a decent little puddle for the first 5k or so with my truck.
@@GilbertGardens ah kk one of those situations, I might be picking up a deleted 15 eco diesel in a few days with 160k km
Have always enjoyed your ecodiesel videos (along with all the others around the homestead). I have a 2014 also with 180k; went to Green Diesel in Detroit about 2 yrs ago at 130k & got their hot tune (egr delete, but kept the DEF etc). Like you, bought it new & plan to keep it for as long as absolutely possible. Tow a 30' trailer (about 8k lbs) with no problem (3:92 rear end); trailer is currently in Florida :( Overall I'm happy with the truck, oil change every 16k, so far so good. Just curious about your 10 litre fill - I've found that with a filter change mine takes 11l which puts it right on the Max line on the dipstick - where it seems to stay until the next change. Interested to hear about the catch can.
As an aside, the major issue I've had (at 125k) was a faulty tone ring - had never heard of this & it left me dead on the side of the QEW. Very long story short, took a week for dealer to analyze (with input finally from factory tech) and another two weeks to replace. Out of Canadian powertrain warranty so tab was $3,300. Wrote FCA complaining that the mileage equivalent to 125k kms put me onside the powertrain warranty - to my amazement they eventually reimbursed about 80% of the bill, as a 'goodwill gesture'.
Keep those videos coming - looking forward to your 250k review.
...I should clarify; I should have said my crankcase refill takes 11 US quarts, which is about 10.4 litres. Sorry.
Thanks for the post. That's crazy about the tone ring. Even more cray to hear fca helping out lol. I would say most people put 10L in for an oil change. Two jugs and done. Each engine is going to be a little different but a whole liter seems odd. Well whatever works for you're situation for sure.
There’s a recall and extended warranty for the Tone Ring
The ccv (what you call pcv) is not the Achilles heal of these trucks. The amount of crankcase vapor is minimal and easily burnt in combustion, not enough makes it past the rings to be an issue in oil contamination.
The real threat to these engines is the stock pilot injection that creates a ton of unburnt fuel, leading to a high soot load in the engine. Your tune likely addresses this and is where you should really give props.
What ecm tune are you running?
I'm using celtic tune. One of the main reasons I installed a catch can was because my tuner recommended it for cleaning up the intake and helping with pre contamination past the piston rings. How much actual oil is tough to gauge. In terms of the tune I never looked into injection but these tunes are pretty solid especially overseas . I'm super happy with it either way.
I have a 2014 also. The high pressure fuel pump failed last week. They found metal shavings in the fuel system. It’s going to cost $8000 to repair. Basically a totally new fuel system pumps, rails and injectors.
jesus. thats insane. I wonder if you can get used injectors at least. help offset the cost.
Make shure they also flush the fuel tank and low pressure hose
I use Power Service Diesel Kleen. It adds cetane, lubricates the pump and cleans the injectors. I get a very slight increase MPG but moreover, I want to save that $8000!
@@DavidMosby I dump some diesel additives in every so often.
What would be wrong with just venting the crankcase to somewhere under the truck? To outside air?
It could be quite a but of oil. There will be a pressure difference as well. Throw a code.
I think a lot of people dont drive them enough. To get everything heated up properly. They dont get the maintenance done as they should. Running in the city for short distances is prob not a good idea for most diesel engines
Yes egr pumps soot back into the oil. Oil gets dirty. Plugs passages because it doesn't get hot enough on short trips.
Good video looks like its working good job good idea after warrantys up until then I feel if I bought a eco diesel instead I would be putting MOTORKOTE in every oil change a 20 dollar bottle which is only 246ml would do 2 oil changes and dont use anything other than rotella T6 oil and like I do with my hemi id change the oil a lil after 50% or 175 hours my manual says 16000 km or 350 hours or 1 year I go by hours 175 is between 10500 km and 12000km but I do do a once a year 100hour short oil change which is like 6000-7000km I would do those things then I would'nt have to worry about my warranty and history has shown it never hurts to change your oil more often
im typically changing mine around 12000km or so. ive stretched it to 16,000. with the EGR deleted the oil samples ive done (only 2) were solid.
I have a 2011 Mercedes Gl350 likethe one you had andinstalled a catch can but that caused me to loose the engine : let me explain , live in Ottawa region and on a very cold day ( -40C ) an ice plug formed in the catch can piping and crank case pressure went to hell and the engine spilled all of it's oil after it busted the piping and engine locked up 7000Cad later replaced the engine and had to reconnect the dam PCV back , but what i'm doing is simply splitting the recommanded oil change intervals by half so changing oil every 7500Km instead of 15k
The EGR system is what the problem is. It’s pumping burnt gases into the engine and it turns into carbon.
Frigging junk.
It's really sad we have to re-engineer our diesels to keep them alive. That being said, some oils literally "evaporate" out of the valve cover vent hose way easier than other higher quality oils. In the oil testing world, that is measured by the NOACK volitility test. Shell Rotella synthetic 5W-40 is in my opinion only marginally better than a conventional diesel oil. The main benefit is the cold weather/cold start oil flow of a 5W-40 is better than a 15W-40. If I was using Rotella syn, I might change it twice a year, but use the Rotella 15W-40 syn during the warmer months. Just an idea
Also, just curious, so if it is below the add mark when you check it here, do you add more oil to fill it back up to the full mark on the dipstick? Or do you just keep riding around with low oil level until you change the oil again?
Sorry I missed the comment. I leave it right at the low mark. If I add more it just blows it into the catch can
Question, I have about 100k and have had ZERO issues but for a while have had a small oil leak. It seems to come from the top of the motor, I’m wondering if this tube is leaking. Had it to the dealership and they conveniently can’t find anywhere it’s leaking from.
Call around and bring it to a small diesel shop. Or a mercedes diesel shop. Simular motor to the v6 diesels in MB/vw I haven't had any leaks knock on wood
I got a 15 eco in November of 23. It had 106k miles and now has 116k. I already got the oil changed once and am halfway to the next change. I listened to the 6-8k the dashboard tells me. I unfortunately live in an emissions strict county so im not sure i can delete my ECO Tho id really love to. But if i did would i be too late to preserve my engine this far into its life?
It's so hard to say brother. You can get tunes to just shut the EGR valve off though. You cannot tell at all from looking at the truck. You'll still have your underneath emissions. That would help with motor and intake sludging
Hey, I know this is an older video but did you see any improvements in intake sound removing the air box and having a freestanding pod filter?
oh yeah quite a bit more intake noise. perfect amount for me
This is why with the egr on diesels when they make it completely illegal and enforced its time for Diesel engine manufacturers to begin installing oil bypass filtration systems that filter down to 2 microns. Then intakes manifolds should be designed to be easily removed and cleaned. Thirdly Amsoil yes it’s expensive but it’s worth it’s weight in gold as it helps keep your oil lines on your turbo from coking up and the oil ports in your engine from also coking and there bypass oil filtration system actually removes 90% of the soot.
yeah id like to see a video on one of these with some oil samples very curious. Removable intakes or at least well-designed to get the intake off is a really good idea. I doubt they would ever improve the design so the DIYer could clean it though. $$
@@GilbertGardens well I seen what a amsoil oil bypass system can do on the cummins the oil is actually dark brown not black. I was to say the least astonished. And it actually allowed him through oil analysis to extend his drain and replace interval by more than double with just filter changes. So technically that oil isn’t so expensive then and he swears by it. I use the T6 but I change my oil every 6000 miles in my cummins. Once the factory warranty is up here comes Amsoil oil and bypass filtration system for sure.
What your saying makes sense. Good video
So I purchased a 2019 Ram classic eco diesel. I live up in norther BC and at least 4 hours from a RAM dealers. I’m looking at ultimate reliability and longevity,
From what I’m seeing is that I want an -oil catch can/ separator. An
-EGR delete,
-DEF delete.
But would an an oil bypass filter be a good upgrade as well?
As well all said and done what could I do now that won’t void my warranty?
Really looking for advice on the best products and best way to keep my trucking at absolute optimal ability for the longest length of time.
Well if you're in warranty the only real "delete" you could do is electronically disable the EGR system. That will stop Exhuast gases from re entering the intake. The dealer can't usually tell that it's on or off. If you remove the dpf and install a (noticeable) catch can you'll likely be denied warranty as it's engine modification.
The oil catch can, i hear most of the time it will throw a engine light.
Yes check different brands though. It depends on the size of the can and hose size I believe. A tuner can shut the code off
@@GilbertGardens interesting, my 2019 is going through a weight loss. And would love a oil catch can. Thanks
Perfect example of what the emissions engineer forgot to tell the service department, and engine mechanical engineer….
Very true lol
Whats with km and liters....imperial please 😮
i know its tough
UHM....I thought the EPA ran Green Diesel Out of business in terms of deleting the Ecodiesels? I had an ecodiesel that I COULD NOT KEEP OUT OF THE STEALERSHIP. I was pulling the MAP sensor about every 10k miles (oil changes at no more than 10k miles) OR it would go all faulty since the MAP would be plugged. At about 60k I installed GDE off road tune, no DEF, with a straight 3" exhaust. The oil stayed VERY clean even to 10k. I got rid of it with 250K miles on it and never an idiot light. Oh also swapped to redline oil in everything EXCEPT the engine. When I brought it home with 27 miles on it I switched to Lubrimolly toptech4200 and a qt of Lucas Synthetic oil stabilizer. I had NO BLOW BY. I never had. Let me repeat that I had NO BLOW BY.
What oil catch can did you go with ? I heard green diesel was told to change the tunes for epa compliance.
@@GilbertGardens I bought a the parts that Shawn Capsan used on his truck but anytime I checked for blow-by I never saw any so I never bothered with it. It's a shame because I think these trucks were awesome once they were deleted (for the averave guy) The passive regen was ridiculous. Maybe a tune to turn off the EGR would be sufficient. I really liked my truck with stock suspension and 33's it would get 27mpg in the hills of eastern PA. I used to drive it to the cabin along rt 209 through the delaware water gap area. Follow the river. Flat and 55mph. It would turn 30 miles per gallon or better.
I don't know what the details are with GDE. I had the off road tune and it ran great. I don't think I'd own any of the new diesels outside the factory warranty. I'm in the market for a new truck but can't decide. Pretty sure I'm going to get a 3/4 ton. Chevy or Ram maybe a diesel.
why do you have an open air filter and not one in a box? You are losing HP and TQ by taking in hot air. Not sure why that change was made.
Pretty sure cold air intakes add almost no return without additional tuning. You might see 5hp but that could be from anything. This was cheap and maintenance has been free for 5 years now.
I heard also it's good to drain the diesel/ water separator in frequent time.
any one has an idea about this?
Doesn't hurt. I never have. Just change fuel every other oil change
Which model you have which year ?
@@ahmedalial-saeed9471 2014 big horn. 300,000km
I have 2022 ED limited , just 4000 Km like new truck but I'm worry about the open recall for HPFP , I'm in Iraq and there is no dealer to send the truck back I'm out of warranty , please can you guide me if you know how to maintain this truck ?
By the way this is the first RAM in my life.@@GilbertGardens
@ahmedalial-saeed9471 just check out my other videos . It's all there brother cheers
Hi Gilbert, great playlist for the ECOD. Ive had my 2014 Limited ECO since new. Pretty much stock, checking out the Provent 200, there isnt much volume capacity at the bottom, what size of hose are you using at the bottom how often are you draining? I could see this filling up real fast with short trips in Vancouver just from the condensation. You have a new Sub!!
How is your 2014 eco diesel doing.. I just bought one and I'm nervous lol
@@INFINITE-AMMO Running nice! Provent 200 filter working great. 💯👍
Use Redline Group V Ester Synthetic 15w-40 Diesel oil and you will prevent that from happening, Group V Ester Synthetic oils are well known for their cleaning properties, they will prevent the build up of sludge.
15w40 ??? You're the first person I've ever heard recommend 15w40 for the ecodiesel. Hell the first two years they wanted 5w30. Not sure how these engines would hold up with 15w40. Not saying it wouldn't work just never heard of such tale. How long have you been running 15w40 ?
@@GilbertGardens
I have been running Redline 15w-40 since 1,800 miles, remember that the first number is just the winter number, I live in Southwest Florida were our winters are mild so I have no need for a 5w winter rating.
The Redline 15w-40 has a pour point down to -49 degrees. I have read accounts of businesses that had ecodiesels and ran 15w-40 oil in them without any issues at all.
FCA changed from the 5w-30 oil spec to the 5w-40 oil spec because the 30 weight oil did not have a strong enough film strength to protect the bottom end bearings. The 40 weight oil has a stronger film strength.
@@ramecodiesel8271 yes I understand oil weights I've just never heard of that oil being used. Either way it's 40 weight so the bearing issue won't be solved. I need the lower winter rating. I suppose for your weather conditions it doesn't need 5w40. We get - 40F from time to time.
@@GilbertGardens
You need to research Ester based synthetic oil, it is well known for its ability to clean and keep clean the internals of an engine.
If you need a 5w winter oil in 40 weight Redline has professional series it is a Group III/Group IV PAO oil in 5w-40. It has a pour point down to -54 degrees.
I'll check into it. It's tough to switch from t6 when it's recommended all over. I literally use it in everything I own lol. I will Check into it though, thanks.
I’ve never had a diesel before and have had 5 different Ram 1500 Hemi’s.
Do you know anything about the the new 3.0 diesels and would you buy one yourself
So far they seem to be good. I would check the forums and speak to some owners first. I think they've salved the main bearing issue.
Unfortunately Jacques Ferreira's video is not there anymore. Is there any copy ?
My main bearing is done - so I am working to fix the engine and also fix the problem (unfortunately late :-( )
I just purchased a 2016 ram ecodiesel. I purchased a kit but have been dreading taking off the egr cooler. Can you explain the steps you took to just put on the one blocker plate.
my EGR is still installed, just disabled. The blocker plate is simple, just remove the small bolts holding the EGR diffuser tube on and install the plate. you must flash the ECU first or youll have serious engine codes.
Put the sensor that regulates the pressure before the oil catch can and that should clear the code.
Have you seen that sensor ?
@@GilbertGardens I can’t recall what sensor we are talking about
@@Rossco603 leaving the crank case PCV I dont recall a sensor even being on that line.
@@GilbertGardens as I recall without rewatching your video, I thought you where talking about the map sensor. Now I’m curious what sensor you where talking about. I do recall you saying “the sensor was after the catch can, and can detect the subtle change the catch can was making, apposed to stock” give or take some of your wording. If that’s the case it would be the map sensor or the sensor coming off the top of the turbo tube? As I recall.
@@Rossco603 There is a sensor somewhere that I believe watches the crank case pressure. Adding this Catch Can set it off. I had it tuned out so its no bother. I cant recall the actual code I had anymore as it was several years ago now
Hi sir, how are you? I enjoyed your videos and suggestions. But i need your help for the future. I have 2018 eco diesel with 120000kms and its out of warranty. I want longevity , reliability , power and economy at same time. But my main concern is resale. If i full delete then as a buyer prospective, may i resale easily or find any trouble in future?
Or what u recommend for it ? Should i go with stage 1 or 2 ? Or just egr tunning ?
Please help me sir
Resale can be tricky. You won't really be able to trade it in just private. I would delete everything
It’s not the oil being pumped back into the EGR that causes your oil to get dirty. It’s the soot from the exhaust being reburnt that causes all the soot in your oil.
If you want to keep that dirty soot out off your oil delete the EGR
The vapours from the crank case mix with the soot from recycling some of the exhaust causes your intake to eventually plug up.
If your able to use a block off plate. You are one lucky SOB.... Most EGR systems use a sensor to make sure exhaust gases are making it to the EGR. If the sensor sees a block it throws a code.
I vent the crank case to atmosphere. No code.
Man your right. It’s not good for the environment but manufacturing a new motor makes a lot more pollution.
You vent the ecodiesel to atmosphere?? If i did that I'd have oil everywhere. Once you tune the egr out you don't technically need a block off plate. I have one installed but its not necessary.
@@GilbertGardens
No I have a Colorado 2.8 diesel. I run the line down to the frame. Very little oil comes out.
Once the warranty is up I will block off the EGR.
Hard to believe the MFGs would put that dirty soot in the motor. Worse than running without an air filter.
Your effectively pumping crystallized carbon back into the engine with that EGR, though it’s also possible the engine rings are not made correctly, Honda had this problem with a bad run of piston rings, it might not entirely be the EGR system contributing to the problem, without multiple inspections of unaltered engines with exact service conditions hard to pin point the problem when likely you have multiple problems going on there.
My experience with older Diesel engines is that the will run for ever if you keep putting oil in them, lol. To make a engine that will consume less oil or stop blow by you need high nickel content in the block or cylinder liners, and the rings need to be hardened ductile iron, perhaps that process doesn’t get checked often enough to ensure quality of components, I’ve found that China has flooded the automotive aftermarket business, as well other countries, this can effect part quality as your quite often dealing with an idea your receiving a quality part on the notion they tell you they are.
How about if I simply put a plug between EGR and exhaust? Will I have a check engine light on?
lots of guys block the EGR port going into the intake but yes you need to tune the EGR off.
@@GilbertGardens So what is the best product in your opinion?
@@alabaiCA check out my newest video ecodiesel review. in the description I have a link to a facebook page with more information on tuning etc.
@@GilbertGardens Will do. Thank you sir.
Could you provide links to the catch can & EGR delete items.
I provided a link to the catch can. You'll need to find a local tuner to disable the egr. The ecu needs to be removed and re programmed.
Where can you get Catch Can in Toronto? Now I got it why mechanic said oil is so dirty last time even though I drove only 10,000 kms.
If you kijiji diesel egr delete you can find some shops to disable the EGR. That will keep the oil cleaner. The catch can to my knowledge can only be purchased from overseas . Prevent 20p. The rear ones are from Australia and they aren't cheap.
@@GilbertGardens if EGR is disabled or deleted, do we have to worry about CATCH can? If so, where can you buy it? Much appreciated... thanks
@tenzinnamdhak ebay has provent 200. Get the expensive one. You won't have alot of oil if you disable but it will still help keep oil blow by out if the motor.
Have you changed your coolant yet? Where did you get it if you did? I'll be changing mine next year, apparently dealer prices are stupidly high
I've had a small egr leak for about 3 years. I think I've changed it over that time. It recently stopped though...very odd. Yeah the orangic OAT coolant is expensive. I might do a video on changing it in the future.
Your math didn't make sense to me. Catch can had 100ml and your dipstick read less than min or down about 1 litre (more or less).
Mime never stays at full. Its always around or just below min. I drain mine 3 times per oil change now. Dunno. It doesn't go any lower then min'ish
My opinion is not doing these mods is worse for the enviroment. than the so called epa emissions crap. clean air equals clean burn. Not to mention you can get no smoke tunes so youre not blowing black smoke everywhere. better fuel mileage aswell. lets really think on it!
Yes my Celtics tune has zero smoke . The extra fuel economy adds up to less emissions too. Not much but still.
Hey Eddy how are you doing, another great video! My question is what brand and where can I find the intake cone your running?
I made a video about it. Its pretty old but you get the idea ruclips.net/video/k0UP6YW7JbQ/видео.html
amzn.to/3mTFVuh - Heres the intake just make sure to take some measurements before K & N make a couple different universal cone style intakes. Cheers
Question about the delete.... Did you change anything with the exhaust? Did you or do you have to physically remove egr components?
Well I had a shop do it. Basically its a flo pro kit from the turbo back to the muffler. It sounds good and not loud. The scr dpf and Def sprayer are all in the basement. The EGR is disabled and i installed block off plates.
@@GilbertGardens yes. Thats what I thought. I've been researching...my gold plan 200km/5yr warranty is up end of February, so I'm planning for spring. Thanks.
@@ChrisB-ny5zr no worries . I might do a video on removing the EGR as I have an off and on leak. Even though its disabled coolant is still circulating
I keep on getting the p20ee
Sounds like cat / nox issue....time to ditch all that crap!
1 Other thing, use a cetane boost. These motors are made to run on cetane 50+, not crappy 40 cetane USA diesel. If you do a UOA and you see silver, that's a potential problem, bearings have silver.
Bearings are copper/brass color. Silver is fairly normal aluminum dust non ferrous.
If you see more than 2ppm silver in the UOA, personally, I would think about dumping it. So far the only silver was at the 5,000 mile break in oil change. Rest of changes have been 0 ppm. Almost 120,000 mi.
Enjoying the Ram vids! Thanks.
Thanks for watching.
Use Archoil additive. kept my ecodiesel trouble free until i traded that pig for a 3.0 duramax.
My father in law just got a 3.0L drama and loves it. More power. I don't know if it's better on fuel economy yet tho.
The little duramax has a belt driven oil pump. Needs serviced at 100k and the trans has to come out. Good luck with that.
@@1005dragrcr It’s 150K, not 100. And I won’t own it anymore by then. At least the son of a bitch will be running, unlike the numerous Ram owners waiting on backordered ecodiesel engines.
Looks like your caught up in the politics of emissions control
Toss it in the trash
Can you get an oil catch can for a 2022 Ram Rebel 3.0L ecodiesel?
Yeah fir sure. You can get a CC for any vehicle. It just gets cut in between the I take and crank case hose. I have another video on mine go check it out. Remember you may need additional tuning depending on the setup.
Looking at getting a reflash of my ecu. Is that good enough or shoukd I still get a oil catch can?
Keep Heat down and 5w-40 oil
if oil gallies are clogged, wouldnt we see a rise in pressure?
These trucks don't have an actual oil pressure sensor from what I know. The oil pressure is just a math equation of rpm and oil temperature if i remember correctly. They do sell aftermarket oil pressure gauges though.
@@GilbertGardens ahh. Thanks for the response. Picking up a 2015 RAM ED 2morrow... wish me luck.. 🤣
Pollution preventative devices from what I understand. Seriously shorten the life of your engine, but none of the tree huggers measured how much it will cost in energy to replace that engine or the shipping all the people of the mining all the trucking the processing. If I do it our way and make it last for 1,000,000 km I’ve probably saved processing three or four trucks and save me a lot of money. Of course the manufactures of these vehicles will lose a lot of money. Thanks to me being thrifty.😂🎉 and milking every possible mile out of this very economical truck it gets better gas mileage than my car😊
I have seen the main Barings there all so thin AF!! what are they 5/8th wade? they shod be like 7/8th they built this engine like a gas engine..
Yeah I'm sure that contributed to the failures as well.
His channel is. I do cars
Why not add an oil bypass filter to help clean the oil? Catch can is a great addition. EGR was invented by someone who escaped from an insane asylum and approved by the same person.
Yes lots of guys do the second oil filter. For me personally if I was going to modify the oil system amd void warranty I'd just disable the egr and do a catch can. Disabled EGR makes a huge difference in oil quality. 🛢
DPF doesn’t do anything for soot in the motor but for sure EGR is awful for these
No but they clog up. I had 3 issues with dpf around 50,000 .
They can but it’s an easy fix and doesn’t hurt the motor. That’s why I always tell people focus on EGR first Because it really can wreck things permanently
Mopar Ecodiesel swore by Hotshots fuel additive for helping with keeping the DPF clean, if you still have a DPF installed.
From my limited understanding, you can remove and pressure wash the DPF as well, just make sure to spray against the natural flow.
Did you do all your recalls? They replace the faulty components
they replace the main bear and or block passage that gets clogged?
i know about the egr ones
Not sure about the details
Did you do your recalls at all?
Where is your location bud? I want to take my ecodiesel grand cherokee to your place so you can help me put that can on
I'm out in chippawa area. Niagara falls canads side. I don't mind helping but you need to figure out the tuning side first which I don't do. Check out kijiji
@@GilbertGardens Awesome. I will try to talk to MrTuning for the tune. Does your can still throws error code?
Im looking to buy a 2018 Ecodiesel with 6,000km should I delete it right away or wait for the warranty to expire and then delete it?
6k ??? Lol crazy. You could disable the egr for now. Basically unnoticeable. Once warranty is up rip it all out.
@@GilbertGardens yes hahaha it’s actually this exact truck ruclips.net/video/AZQVKu1u5Ng/видео.html what do you think?
@@e117f super nice truck. 6k seems almost unbelievable for 3 years old lol.
Just bought a 2022 ram eco diesel what would u recommend
well once the warranty is close delete the EGR, SCR, DPF, DEF. I kept my mufflers.
EGR delete and a catch can to remove soot.
Also if your state doesn't do emissions def delete too lol.
The first level check on a cold motor ecodiesel is false I think. If you put it back in and read it again it will read overfull in my experience.
Use Schaeffer oil!
Is it okay to dump the oil back into the motor?
It's upto you. I've done this and it just blows right back into the catch can. If you don't have a catch can itll end up inside the air system. It depends how much blow by your truck has.
Bad idea. The majority of what comes out of the catch can is fuel and water/oil vapor. Very little of that is actually oil.
What weight oil is in it?
rotella T6 5w40
120k miles have had to install new turbo and now new water pump plus injector and belts
Jesus. I haven't heard of a to of turbo failures with these trucks. What's the turbo cost on these.
I did this to my 2016 F150 and get so much oil that would have gone back into the PCV valve.
240000kms and you have worn piston rings causing so much blow by.
worn ringd does create more blow by thats true but Ive seen guys with half the milage and still getting oil in the air system. Hell I was catching the same amount when I first installed the catch can 3+ years ago
its good to do this but youre analogy is strange.
let me tell you what you need to do to ensure you never have those problems. Take your ecodiesel to the dodge dealership and trade it in for a 2500 cummins. Problem solved.
Hahaahaaha yeah that'll do it
I bought my 2007 5.9 Cummins new and I have to admit that with no EGR or other B.S. I'm not sure I want to trade down to a potential problem.
@@louielindenmayer6653 keep the 5.9 for historical purposes lol. Unfortunately there's no getting around these emissions they just get worse and worse.
Nope... It is the oil flow that is insufficient... the pressure is correct but there is not enough flow. Upgrading the pump is not enough because the main oil distribution channels are too small. Basically there is nothing to do... don't waste your time and save your money!
So are you saying there's not enough flow therefore its heating the engine up and failing ? I'm speaking about the main bearing failure which appears to be the main issue. The oil galleries are clogged due to a combo of dirty oil and I suppose small diameter passages would make sense .
@@GilbertGardens I'm saying it's a problem with the design of the lube lines. The lack of flow on the bearings causes an increase in heat which cooks the oil and deposits in the narrow cavities as well as cholesterol, and this worsens over time until it becomes completely clogged.
@@maximebegin1454 I can see that but you can't disagree that clean oil flows better then dirty oil. It seems more deleted (cleaner oil) ecodiesels last longer then EGR enabled engines. It's a combo of both I would assume.
You have less restrictions with cleaner oil. I hear what your saying you can't fix the small oil passes ages but you can increase flow with cleaner oil via disabling the EGR.
@@GilbertGardens You can try anyway egr is a engine killer. Upgrade the oil pump could help too and decrease the coolant temp to 175F too... but i don't expect miracles whatever you try.
@@maximebegin1454 definitely something to look into for sure. Thanks for the input. Cheers.
how you explain that "Vern Diesel" got 700K miles on his 2014 ecodiesel already ?
Whos vern diesel? 700K is a buncha miles. Ive heard of guys getting 400+K though. Just because some people are having failures doesnt mean theyre all bad. Im at 250,000KM now still sounds like it did on day one.
@@GilbertGardens a guy from RAM Ecodiesel forum. search Vern Diesel and you should be able to find him. I just bought 2021 Laramie sport ecodiesel. 26 MPG combined for my first 3200 miles. Will do my first oil change today.
@@veniaminmarar710 I'll check it all out.
@@GilbertGardens he put a tune in his truck that shuts off the egr. vern is a lying pos and isnt, and has never, ran a stock truck. how can you argues thousands of engine failures by touting one lying guy? rediculous
TLDR: how to void your warranty
Yes it probably would
That is the most ghetto catch can install I've ever seen, lol
She's still going strong though. Hahahaha
Delete delete delete. The only answer.
THROWSOMENYLONOVERTHEDIRTYCONEHEAD...
Oooops , it’s below the minimum line. 😆
It lives there and likes it
@@GilbertGardens it’s all good 😀 just stay away from those long steep off camber turns and steep hills . 😀 but seriously nice vidio👍 Cheers 🍻
PUMPUPDVOLUME...
No delete in USA anymore ... well, at least legally.
It never was legal lol
@@GilbertGardens Good point.
@@phprofYT You may acquire legal tunes from sofa king. The legality is in how they are applied by you, the user. Stage 1 tunes are very easily reversed.
At first I just disabled the egr... Then deleted the DPF etc etc.
I know what you mean though.. More cracking down in the USA for sure
You shouldn’t have to modify a $80,000 vehicle!
I paid 52k canadian 7 years ago. That's like forty bucks US.
But I agree. For sure.
Ok dude you completely lost any legitimacy when you believe the EGR pumps spent exhaust into the intake manifold.
Bro, why would that help emissions? That would make combustion next to impossible.
Or maybe you can use that good ol brain to remember that “eco diesel” is short hand for Small displacement diesel with a turbocharger to boost performance to an acceptable level (turbos not having the same power sapping effect that super chargers do since they work on simply the exhaust pressure leaving your engine to spool up a turbine which, in a completely unconnected pipe creates a corresponding level of pressure in the intake manifold (forced induction) to greatly increase the power levels and the fuel/air ratio improving efficiency and allowing the fuel’s explosive force be much more potent as a passive intake depends on simply passive suction from the combustion already occurring.
The EGR is simply a device that’s purpose is to cool down that extremely hot exhaust as to help with turbo temps, oil temps, and EGT (exhaust gas temp) which if too high creates a positive feedback loop where the turbo gets hotter and hotter and therefore adding tons of new heat in the oil and in the coolant.
That’s why people who don’t just decide to cut cables to parts in their engine bay, buy aftermarket EGR’s that eliminate the terrible ones in the ram/jeep ecodiesel. Also by doing any aftermarket upgrade that increases air flow of exhaust from the catalytic converters, the air intake filter or CAI attachment, a better intercooler with proper hot and cold pipe exchanges between the turbo and the intercooler.
Even the Afe oil pan which has an extra 2 quarts of oil volume, has an fully aluminum build with a ribbed appearance that servers as a minor heat exchanger for the oil in addition to all else.
What you did is first removed the device that keeps the the turbo from melting, but you then took out the piping that spools the turbo in the first place.
Congrats you literally made it more reliable by butchering it.
You would have known all of this in a few google and wiki searches, but you know what they say measure twice, cut once. Too bad you didn’t take it to heart.
I'm offended!. Here I got this from a basic Google search......... "To help minimize this, the EGR valve allows a precise quantity of exhaust gas to re-enter the intake the system, effectively changing the chemical makeup of the air entering the engine. With less oxygen, the now diluted mixture burns slower, lowering temperatures in the combustion chamber by almost 150°C, and reducing NOx production for a cleaner, more efficient exhaust. "
The "mods" I've done to my truck are pretty standard. Thousands of guys have done the same thing with good results. I do appreciate you dropping by though.
And I've never ever heard of a turbo melting due to "cold air intakes " lol. Again thanks for coming out.