This video helped me on my 2002 Z28. I didn’t use a hole bit. I used a regular drill bit and then followed his instruction and drilled out the rivers and then installed the new motor with no issue. Thanks again.
One of the best videos on this task. I wish I saw it before I went the route of removing the regulator. I am at the point of drilling the motor off, replacing and putting everything back in.
This was perfect! I completely changed the motor out in the 30 minutes as you said it would. Your video was was excellent. Saved me time especially compared to the book way of doing this.
Really helpful video. Showed this to my husband and he was able to fix our drivers side window on our 1999 Firebird Trans Am. Saved money on having a mechanic do this. Very helpful. The window works perfectly now. Thank You
Great Video, Saved me lots of time. I used 3/16 rivets instead of bolts, I already had them and the extended nose riveter to put them in. You need to drill the holes out to 3/16. Used a vice grip on the track and a suction cup on the window to hold it in place. Fast to do once you know where to drill. The 1" hole saw gave me lots of space for the riveter nose to fix in. Your riveting metal to metal, not metal to fiberglass idk what loyd was thinking there. GM uses these same rivets to hold the 96 Chevy truck door solenoids in.
if you notice when the window is fully down there is play between the regulator rivets and the fiberglass inner door panel. Common problem and will not allow the window to go up fully. There is usually gap between the glass and black trim adjacent to the mirror. The best fix for that is to sandwich the fiberglass between 2 pieces of sheet metal, one on the inner door panel and one on the other. I used 1/4-20 bolts and nylon nuts. Works like a charm.
really helpful video , now here is the biggie , i am in need of installing all the power hrdware in my drivers door , where each piece goes / any help , is it easier to have the door off ? Thank you and keep the good videos coming , my door was separating at seam in very front by the mirror & halfway dwn door, so i removed it to make that repair w/jb weld epoxy , i'll let yuh know how it works
This guy shipped it to me overnight!!! I had the new one in in less then 20 minutes. I used size 10 1/2 inch self tappers...Damn and I happy!! I work on cars a lot, but I am a dumbass! The methods this guy shows can truly be done EASILY by anyone
Okay so I had my window motor replaced on my 02 Trans Am and what the guy did was just drilled out the rivets and replaced the hole box and the motor I guess. But he did a terrible job and the bolts that he replaced the rivets with, over time (like a week or so) started to rub grooves out in the fiberglass. Causing the whole motor to shift when rolling the window up so now the window will not roll all the way up... Do you know of anything that I can do to fix something like this without having to refiberglass the door?
Probably need to replace the SASH that is riveted to the glass. You might need someone to do thios for you; These are available USED only at salvage yards. I can ship a USED one to you for $100. Scott
Hello. At 2:55 in this video you mention replacing the 'sash' attachment. Do you or anyone reading this happen to know if that is indeed the correct name for that piece (with the roller attached) and/or does anyone know a source to get this piece. Thank you.
+Scott Simons yea it is I can't get that metal clip to reach the whole it sits in so I can bolt it down I have my wheels in track but now it won't reach far enough back
Option B is to drill out the regulator assembly which is a lot more work. You already have plenty of holes and precut openings in the door though. A few more are really not a problem.
Personally, I viewed videos on the "drilling holes method" and the "no drilling holes method"... Yeah I drilled 'em out, I think it increases the value of the car. Tip - plug that motor up BEFORE you mount it. But yeah, I'm the guy who would rather drill three holes. I think it's a real dick move by GM to build it WITHOUT the holes. Same goes for the fuel pump. (Personally, I'm a third gen guy) but I have a 4th gen too. I wish GM had to pay me for every fuel pump I had to replace. AND I believe that they should have to install the damn fuel pump AFTER they build the car. I'm just sayin' yeah there would be an access panel if they had to do that.
When I bought my 1 owner 95 Trans Am in 2004, it had already had both motors replaced and there were holes drilled. I'm 99.9% sure the original owner had them replaced at a dealership.
I drilled the rivets out and used hi-loc same side bolts. I take the entire scissor assembly out and clean n regrease/ inspect. Takes longer but! .... video is good BTW except for the new access holes!
It’s not that rare and or worth more cause you decided you want to do it the hard way. Gm made millions of f bodies and guaranteeing that yours isn’t worth anything more than the next one. Clean great running cars are worth money . Not everyone that gm put out
I have an 02 Firehawk show car, is there anyway to do this without having to drill holes in the door? I mean, I will if I have to, I just dont understand the reason for it. What are the rivets attached to? The housing itself?
You certainly can drill out the rivets, You might also need to drill out the rivets that go through the glass and attach to the bar (channel) that the regulator attaches to, and remove the entire regulator assembly. Then lock down the regulator so the spring does not unwind. Drill off the small rivets holding the motor to the regulator and replace. Aside from this being a lot of work, and you will need a 1/4 regulator rivet tool to reinstall the rivets, and special glass rivets for the glass, there is another reason NOT to remove everything. The door panel is fiberglass and drilling out the rivets can expand the holes where the rivets are and then your glass will slightly shift when raising.
So I’m having a problem… the window will roll down but not back up… I went to replace the motor and tried it when it was out and plugged it in and it will only roll down and not back up.. so I’m guessing maybe the switch is bad? Any advice would be helpful thanks for a good video though 👍🏼
I could use some serious help the fiber glass has been damaged where my regulator bolts up so even adjusted to max hight it doesn't make a seal what can I do about that
Question for Scott, from Brighton Colorado, I have a 01 Pontiac Firebird transam, my window roller guide,broke... the roller guide connected to the back piece of the window the lower left what is the name of that item I believe it's tacked on with rivets and a roller guide that goes up and down that metal piece I don't need that, the piece that holds the window what should be front of the window the lower left that long piece with a track oh, that's the name that I need for that piece, thanks trying to find one at a junkyard and I believe that roller comes with that metal piece, not the long track that's up and down the other that's connected to the window Laura left
you cannot get motor out if riveted or you hane to drill holes in door - never use bolts to secure motor to regulator or regulator to dor they can and will loosen over time always rivet parts . securing motor to regulator w screws is ok
Um yeah now when the tracks mess up someone’s gotta deal with that. Im doing the complete reg. Yeah it’s a day but it’s done right and all my rollers hinges and sprocket is new
The regulator is on a spring that keeps the glass up. The motor pulls against the spring to bring the glass down. You would only need to suction cup the glass if removing the entire regulator
My 2002 camaro the drivers side window rolls down fine but makes a loud grinding noise and won't roll up I know it aint the motor I believe it is the gear
You could drill out the regulator rivets but not in your best interests. The panel is fiberglass and the holes where the rivets are can become larger allowing the regulator to shift. If you look there are a LOT of holes already in the door panel, 3 more won't hurt.
There are already plenty of cut-outs in the door. A few more will not ruin anything. Unless you're showing the car as a full restoration this is the easiest way to do this. You certainly can remove the entire regulator and we need to do that sometimes but since the door panel is fiberglass this can loosen up the holes where the rivets go. Trust me, we only do windows and locks. 44,000 invoices, 32,000 customers, 25 years.
@@PowerUpAuto and I guess that many more holes cut in doors due to a lazy process. Yes if you own a 93-02 trans am with under 80k miles or so in immaculate condition then this is just idiotic. This method is fine for beaters and if authorized by Your customers .... Yet Your logic also is ridiculous and unprofessional - "oh well any car that has a few factory holes/openings on the door no big deal to just screw out a few more holes in it". ... And yes myself and many others HAVE seen 1st hand these holes get larger and ruin panels.
@@lewokejames Only other way is to remove the window regulator by drilling out the rivets which can be a problem for the fiberglass door panel. Not sure you are well versed in this. But thanks for the advice.
@@PowerUpAuto you're referring to drilling out the rivets once the regulator/motor/rollers are removed from the door panel as one, & then replacing the rivets that connect the regulator to the rollers with screws correct? and with your years of experience i'm sure you're 100% aware that any quality regulator comes with replacement screws with the manufacturer KNOWING that the original rivets must be drilled out, correct ? lol i'm completely properly versed/knowledgable on how to do the job PROPERLY, as opposed to half ass/lazily & potentially ruining someones car 1st off immediately by drilling holes in it and 2ndly highly possibly overtime as the screws F'up the fgiberglass. No worries though i can see we've established you professionally as a business prefer the half ass/lazy/hacking up the car method.
This vid is fine, had to replace a defective replacement motor yesterday and im glad the holes were already there. Made it a lot easier to replace it. Made new holes for the passenger side since that oem motor was on its way out. Holes on the driver's side were still the same size from when my mechanic did it. 1 hole i made on the passenger side was more spot on to where the rivet was compared to the driver's side. Also the screws don't go into the fiberglass, they go into the motor hole where it meets the regulator hole. Easy fix and makes it a lot easier if the motors go out again.
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great video. I'm disabled and with your help it only took me about 45 min from start to finish on my 95 z28. much appreciated
This video helped me on my 2002 Z28. I didn’t use a hole bit. I used a regular drill bit and then followed his instruction and drilled out the rivers and then installed the new motor with no issue. Thanks again.
One of the best videos on this task. I wish I saw it before I went the route of removing the regulator. I am at the point of drilling the motor off, replacing and putting everything back in.
This was perfect! I completely changed the motor out in the 30 minutes as you said it would. Your video was was excellent. Saved me time especially compared to the book way of doing this.
Add to this, I had my passenger door motor go out as well. So you save me literally hundreds of dollars. Thank you very much for this video!
Thanks!
Really helpful video. Showed this to my husband and he was able to fix our drivers side window on our 1999 Firebird Trans Am. Saved money on having a mechanic do this. Very helpful. The window works perfectly now. Thank You
Great to hear
Great Video, Saved me lots of time. I used 3/16 rivets instead of bolts, I already had them and the extended nose riveter to put them in. You need to drill the holes out to 3/16.
Used a vice grip on the track and a suction cup on the window to hold it in place. Fast to do once you know where to drill. The 1" hole saw gave me lots of space for the riveter nose to fix in. Your riveting metal to metal, not metal to fiberglass idk what loyd was thinking there. GM uses these same rivets to hold the 96 Chevy truck door solenoids in.
This video made the job incredibly easy! I’m just waiting on the new motor to ship
Glad it helped!
Thank you for this video, it helped me out a lot when my driver side motor in my 93 camaro take a dump :)
Wow! This is a very good video! I used it and it worked! Thank you! Thank you!
You're welcome!
@@PowerUpAuto do you supply window motors?
@@bradcrabtree2452 www.upanddownmainstreet.com
Thanks for the tips. I did this job on my 93 camaro last night. took less than a hour.
My apologies but I had to thank God for this one! It was really helpful and saved me a lot of $!!
Excellent!
Best Video ive seen on replacing the Window motors, im going to replace both of them next week thank you for the excellent video.
Thanks for the video, a huge help on my 02 SS Camaro. In total 20min
worked perfectly! Just changed my driver side in my 98 Camaro.
I’m
if you notice when the window is fully down there is play between the regulator rivets and the fiberglass inner door panel. Common problem and will not allow the window to go up fully. There is usually gap between the glass and black trim adjacent to the mirror. The best fix for that is to sandwich the fiberglass between 2 pieces of sheet metal, one on the inner door panel and one on the other. I used 1/4-20 bolts and nylon nuts. Works like a charm.
This is missing some info, I am having this issue. A lot of play around the rivets.
What size self tapping screws?
really helpful video , now here is the biggie , i am in need of installing all the power hrdware in my drivers door , where each piece goes / any help , is it easier to have the door off ? Thank you and keep the good videos coming , my door was separating at seam in very front by the mirror & halfway dwn door, so i removed it to make that repair w/jb weld epoxy , i'll let yuh know how it works
How long are the self tappers that were used?
This guy shipped it to me overnight!!! I had the new one in in less then 20 minutes. I used size 10 1/2 inch self tappers...Damn and I happy!! I work on cars a lot, but I am a dumbass! The methods this guy shows can truly be done EASILY by anyone
How did you get in touch with him?
so how are the self tapping screws holding? the metal its screwing into is so flimsy
Fine, we've used them on 1000's of repairs for 20 years. They hold tight. If you find them loose go to the next larger size.
What size do you use
Okay so I had my window motor replaced on my 02 Trans Am and what the guy did was just drilled out the rivets and replaced the hole box and the motor I guess. But he did a terrible job and the bolts that he replaced the rivets with, over time (like a week or so) started to rub grooves out in the fiberglass. Causing the whole motor to shift when rolling the window up so now the window will not roll all the way up... Do you know of anything that I can do to fix something like this without having to refiberglass the door?
Try putting washers on both sides of the bolts (or rivets) that hold the regulator to the door.
Do you have a video of the tracks and window alignment? Mine motor works slowly but seems to be off the track or guide rail at the front.
Probably need to replace the SASH that is riveted to the glass. You might need someone to do thios for you; These are available USED only at salvage yards. I can ship a USED one to you for $100. Scott
Hello. At 2:55 in this video you mention replacing the 'sash' attachment. Do you or anyone reading this happen to know if that is indeed the correct name for that piece (with the roller attached) and/or does anyone know a source to get this piece. Thank you.
Yes, that track is called the sash. Only available used at this point. I have them in stock for $120 delivered USED. No warrsnty.
do they make a repair kit for where the regulator rivets to the door. we have one with very elongated holes. thanks
We use washers on both sides of the door panel to reinforce the holes.
Do you have a video on how to change out the whole assembly? Both my motors & assemblies were bad & its whooping my ass to say the least
+Ryan Nolen Sorry, no, but that is a bit of work. You may want to find someone who can do that for you.
+Scott Simons yea it is I can't get that metal clip to reach the whole it sits in so I can bolt it down I have my wheels in track but now it won't reach far enough back
+Ryan Nolen give me your phone number, I'll give you a call. Scott
+Scott Simons 205-240-9946
Thank you for the Info
You have to be nuts! No way in hell I'm drilling holes in my Rare SS Camaro.
Option B is to drill out the regulator assembly which is a lot more work. You already have plenty of holes and precut openings in the door though. A few more are really not a problem.
Personally, I viewed videos on the "drilling holes method" and the "no drilling holes method"... Yeah I drilled 'em out, I think it increases the value of the car. Tip - plug that motor up BEFORE you mount it. But yeah, I'm the guy who would rather drill three holes. I think it's a real dick move by GM to build it WITHOUT the holes. Same goes for the fuel pump. (Personally, I'm a third gen guy) but I have a 4th gen too. I wish GM had to pay me for every fuel pump I had to replace. AND I believe that they should have to install the damn fuel pump AFTER they build the car. I'm just sayin' yeah there would be an access panel if they had to do that.
When I bought my 1 owner 95 Trans Am in 2004, it had already had both motors replaced and there were holes drilled. I'm 99.9% sure the original owner had them replaced at a dealership.
I drilled the rivets out and used hi-loc same side bolts. I take the entire scissor assembly out and clean n regrease/ inspect. Takes longer but! .... video is good BTW except for the new access holes!
It’s not that rare and or worth more cause you decided you want to do it the hard way. Gm made millions of f bodies and guaranteeing that yours isn’t worth anything more than the next one. Clean great running cars are worth money . Not everyone that gm put out
@ Power Up Auto -
The passenger side on my 2000 firebird isn't working, Is there any way I can bring it down and up manually???
Not Really. You could remove the window motor but then the glass would slip down into the door.
I have an 02 Firehawk show car, is there anyway to do this without having to drill holes in the door? I mean, I will if I have to, I just dont understand the reason for it. What are the rivets attached to? The housing itself?
You certainly can drill out the rivets, You might also need to drill out the rivets that go through the glass and attach to the bar (channel) that the regulator attaches to, and remove the entire regulator assembly. Then lock down the regulator so the spring does not unwind. Drill off the small rivets holding the motor to the regulator and replace. Aside from this being a lot of work, and you will need a 1/4 regulator rivet tool to reinstall the rivets, and special glass rivets for the glass, there is another reason NOT to remove everything. The door panel is fiberglass and drilling out the rivets can expand the holes where the rivets are and then your glass will slightly shift when raising.
What size hole saw did you use
Nice clip. Thank you.
So I’m having a problem… the window will roll down but not back up… I went to replace the motor and tried it when it was out and plugged it in and it will only roll down and not back up.. so I’m guessing maybe the switch is bad? Any advice would be helpful thanks for a good video though 👍🏼
Sounds like the switch. Change that first
What’s the name of your website? You didn’t put it in the description & you said it to fast, thank you.
www.upanddownmainstreet.com
thanks a bunch this video is very helpful
I have to drill into my fucking door to replace this!?!?!? WHAT THE FUCK GM!?
Hey so after installing the window motor on my Camaro the window has a little gapping where water can seep in. Any ideas?
The window motor might be similar to a headlight motor where you have to adjust it.
Awww you smart. Should of never asked.
I could use some serious help the fiber glass has been damaged where my regulator bolts up so even adjusted to max hight it doesn't make a seal what can I do about that
Not too much. A body shop might be able to attach a metal plate. If it's not too bad we use washers on both sides of the panel to reinforce.
Question for Scott, from Brighton Colorado, I have a 01 Pontiac Firebird transam, my window roller guide,broke... the roller guide connected to the back piece of the window the lower left what is the name of that item I believe it's tacked on with rivets and a roller guide that goes up and down that metal piece I don't need that, the piece that holds the window what should be front of the window the lower left that long piece with a track oh, that's the name that I need for that piece, thanks trying to find one at a junkyard and I believe that roller comes with that metal piece, not the long track that's up and down the other that's connected to the window Laura left
The sash or track. Only available at salvage yards at this point. KI do have these in stock used for $120 delivered. Scott
Where are u located, I need the same work done to my firebird
i have manual windows on my 95 camaro. is it possible to install electric windows?
Yes, are you in TampaBay, FL?
@@PowerUpAuto no im in California.
What tool you used to take those screws off
which screws? The motor is usually attached to the regulator with small rivets which are drilled off.
@@PowerUpAuto oh ok so drill them off? Cause I swear I'm stuck trying to get it off
you cannot get motor out if riveted or you hane to drill holes in door - never use bolts to secure motor to regulator or regulator to dor they can and will loosen over time always rivet parts . securing motor to regulator w screws is ok
Um yeah now when the tracks mess up someone’s gotta deal with that. Im doing the complete reg. Yeah it’s a day but it’s done right and all my rollers hinges and sprocket is new
You didn't tape the window to keep it from falling.,? Why??
The regulator is on a spring that keeps the glass up. The motor pulls against the spring to bring the glass down. You would only need to suction cup the glass if removing the entire regulator
My 2002 camaro the drivers side window rolls down fine but makes a loud grinding noise and won't roll up I know it aint the motor I believe it is the gear
Gear inside the window motor, Change the motor.
@@PowerUpAuto its all 1 assembly aint it
@@tncountryboy34 you should be able to change just the window motor
Why in the hell would u drill holes??????? It went in there from the factory without holes, so take it out the same way
You could drill out the regulator rivets but not in your best interests. The panel is fiberglass and the holes where the rivets are can become larger allowing the regulator to shift. If you look there are a LOT of holes already in the door panel, 3 more won't hurt.
@@PowerUpAuto because that kinda repair would bother my ocd.
See other vids if you don't wanna ruin your doors by drilling unnecessary holes in them
There are already plenty of cut-outs in the door. A few more will not ruin anything. Unless you're showing the car as a full restoration this is the easiest way to do this. You certainly can remove the entire regulator and we need to do that sometimes but since the door panel is fiberglass this can loosen up the holes where the rivets go. Trust me, we only do windows and locks. 44,000 invoices, 32,000 customers, 25 years.
@@PowerUpAuto and I guess that many more holes cut in doors due to a lazy process. Yes if you own a 93-02 trans am with under 80k miles or so in immaculate condition then this is just idiotic. This method is fine for beaters and if authorized by Your customers .... Yet Your logic also is ridiculous and unprofessional - "oh well any car that has a few factory holes/openings on the door no big deal to just screw out a few more holes in it". ... And yes myself and many others HAVE seen 1st hand these holes get larger and ruin panels.
@@lewokejames Only other way is to remove the window regulator by drilling out the rivets which can be a problem for the fiberglass door panel. Not sure you are well versed in this. But thanks for the advice.
@@PowerUpAuto you're referring to drilling out the rivets once the regulator/motor/rollers are removed from the door panel as one, & then replacing the rivets that connect the regulator to the rollers with screws correct? and with your years of experience i'm sure you're 100% aware that any quality regulator comes with replacement screws with the manufacturer KNOWING that the original rivets must be drilled out, correct ? lol i'm completely properly versed/knowledgable on how to do the job PROPERLY, as opposed to half ass/lazily & potentially ruining someones car 1st off immediately by drilling holes in it and 2ndly highly possibly overtime as the screws F'up the fgiberglass. No worries though i can see we've established you professionally as a business prefer the half ass/lazy/hacking up the car method.
This vid is fine, had to replace a defective replacement motor yesterday and im glad the holes were already there. Made it a lot easier to replace it. Made new holes for the passenger side since that oem motor was on its way out. Holes on the driver's side were still the same size from when my mechanic did it. 1 hole i made on the passenger side was more spot on to where the rivet was compared to the driver's side. Also the screws don't go into the fiberglass, they go into the motor hole where it meets the regulator hole. Easy fix and makes it a lot easier if the motors go out again.
Poor video
Help me out, some specifics if you could. The angle and video is clear and everything is explained.
what size and length are the self tappers? Also what size hole bit?