I surfed Rincon a few times ~ Once it was the biggest ever in 1969 when Nueva was out later. The tide was very high in the morning and I jumped off the rocks at the highway to paddle out and I barely made it. Every time I thought I was in the right place a set would come and I exhausted myself paddling for the oil piers out of the impact zone. Finally I thought ~ "I'm safe" and I rested for a few minutes... but then a massive set came. It was over 15 feet and there were only three guys out at this point. As I paddled out for this huge set a guy dropped in super steep and at the bottom his board broke in half under him possibly from a prior fracture. He came up with the tail only. Well, bigger waves were coming and I scrambled outside. It was really very hard to line up so I just followed this other guy around. He told me to line up with landmarks and after a very long time and sitting through a couple giant sets I took off on a wave which seemed to be makeable. I was going so fast that my hair whistled next to my ear, my fin hummed. I got about 3 waves and finally lost my board and no way I was going back out. The waves were washing over the highway and my friend had to move the van it was so big. They said there had been some 20 foot sets. This was all at high tide. I was worn out. Neither of my friends would go out and the way home was all praise and disbelief. If I had seen a huge set from the highway there I would have chickened out. I was 17 years old. Some say the waves got 30 feet on that day. There's no way I could have measured it. All I know was that we had seen it and I actually rode it that day.
Leo Carrillo is similar but not as good. If you want to do something really fun ride your bike there from Westlake Village CA. The ride up the mountain is grueling, but coasting down the mountains to Leo Carrillo State Park is worth it. It is where the Dude and Walter took Donnie's ashes. Donnie surfed.
I surfed Rincon a few times ~ Once it was the biggest ever in 1969 when Nueva was out later. The tide was very high in the morning and I jumped off the rocks at the highway to paddle out and I barely made it. Every time I thought I was in the right place a set would come and I exhausted myself paddling for the oil piers out of the impact zone. Finally I thought ~ "I'm safe" and I rested for a few minutes... but then a massive set came. It was over 15 feet and there were only three guys out at this point. As I paddled out for this huge set a guy dropped in super steep and at the bottom his board broke in half under him possibly from a prior fracture. He came up with the tail only. Well, bigger waves were coming and I scrambled outside. It was really very hard to line up so I just followed this other guy around. He told me to line up with landmarks and after a very long time and sitting through a couple giant sets I took off on a wave which seemed to be makeable. I was going so fast that my hair whistled next to my ear, my fin hummed. I got about 3 waves and finally lost my board and no way I was going back out. The waves were washing over the highway and my friend had to move the van it was so big. They said there had been some 20 foot sets. This was all at high tide. I was worn out. Neither of my friends would go out and the way home was all praise and disbelief. If I had seen a huge set from the highway there I would have chickened out. I was 17 years old. Some say the waves got 30 feet on that day. There's no way I could have measured it. All I know was that we had seen it and I actually rode it that day.
Thanks dude, looks totally sick. Reminds me of Sandon Point on the east coast of Oz. Machine Perfection 🤖🌊
Great wave and vibe!
Ty Ser! Such a Gem....
I live 5 minutes from this spot, even got my Rincon BBQ Surfers t shirt on right now haha
That last sentence is the truth. Long live the Queen.
Rincon in in Ventura county, not SB
was wondering about this place recently...
Leo Carrillo is similar but not as good. If you want to do something really fun ride your bike there from Westlake Village CA. The ride up the mountain is grueling, but coasting down the mountains to Leo Carrillo State Park is worth it. It is where the Dude and Walter took Donnie's ashes. Donnie surfed.
KOOKs go to Mondos!
Hola first-time touching down on your grid permission to come aboard? Awesome sets 🌊in La Isla De- Encanto, Puerto Rico
broke a board there - was worth it
similar to JBay