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Just another day for John John

eating?

yikes!!!

About the Blacks clean-up sets… the slope out from the sand is sooo small making the difference between where regular sets break and the clean-ups immense. The paddle out on the biggest days is probably 100 yards or more.

Surfed blacks for the first time thinking it would be good practice on a smaller day. Surfline said it would be 4-5’ and good at the time I was going and that it would downgrade to 3-4’ as the tide filled in. I walked down the paved road and observed for a while, and paddled out at south peak. Just as I make it to the lineup, feeling proud of myself, I see a set forming outside that definitely did not meet the 4-5’ forecast. I wanted no part of this set, specifically wave number 2. I’m frantically paddling in as the current is pulling me back. The first wave hit and I ditched my board trying to make it under. What I didn’t know is that the wave will break in like 1 foot of water if you go at low tide, so there’s not a good place to get under all that turbulence. I literally feel the power of the white water holding me down, and dragging me back out to the next waves impact zone. When I surfaced all I saw was a wall of white water coming my way and I managed to climb on my board and ride the white water in. It was the fastest white water wave ever and it even reformed! It was incredibly fun…. So much so I decided maybe further south would be more my level. “Baby blacks” or “Beginner blacks” is what I had in mind and I paddled back out. Half way out I see yet another outside set coming in whose size I didn’t anticipate and I immediately halt my paddle out and cruise in.

Most Excellent ¿

Drainpipes Zuma Beach. Board breaker in the spring. 80's were epic there.

Summer of '86? I took a friend of my roomate down to Blacks. He was all cocky about it, "I was on the Indiana swim team, this should be easy". We make the turn from the asphalt road at the south end and I see the last 3 waves from a clean up set and go, "woah". It's far away and the cocky dude says, "that doesn't look that big." But I knew better and still messed it up. It was flat after that and I paddled out without getting my hair wet. No waves came and I drifted further and further inside, hoping to catch some scrap wave. Then, when I'm sitting way inside, we see it, the dreaded line on the horizon. Everyone starts frantically paddling and of course I have no chance. The second wave in the set had so much power, it ripped the leash off my leg. After that, I got worried, there was so much foam, I could barely take a breath before the next wave hit. I was just floundering in the whitewater, getting held under by wave after wave. Finally, my feet touched the bottom and I stagger up onto the beach. Lying spread eagled on the beach is cocky dude, his boogie board washed up 50 yards away. One of the waves had ripped the leash off him too. He lifts his head and says, "this is a lot harder than it looks". We made no attempt to paddle back out. The set was triple overhead plus and lasted at least 45 minutes, the time that we left. There was some duo combo storm in the southern hemisphere and it sent us the rare giant summer swell. I had big wave nightmares for 20 years afterwards. Mild form of PTSD.

GOAT trail for Life...,🤙🌊🦆💯💜

Love body surfing naked at blax

Hugs for Adam Warren Ostar de J'ornay & da Windasea surfclub Mike etc..❤😂a 🎉

Encinitas ❤ Me myself, I am a kinder to Bird Rock San Diego ❤❤❤

Sweet bro. Much love MAD RESPECT ❤❤

But that trail is brutal after a session.

The Nude beach?

KOOKs go to Mondos!

This is where I lived near. 1972-80 the good old days‼️ 1972 there were no phones, radios or TV. And there was no traffic❗No Foodland, Kammie's (rip off) or Haleiwa. Subway and of course Matsamoto's Shave Ice. Everyone seemed to surf Rocky Point or Velsyland. Lots more stories...Primo Warriors 💪 another time 🤙

Love this description‼️ Always fascinated by Pipeline. Mahalo 🤙

the southern hemisphere winter is June, July, August, not November, I live down here. The November - January season is windy, but it's not winter.

I liked the arty avante-garde sounds and images in the intro. Well done Rip Curl!

In the early 1960's, I often walked along the shore from La Jolla... and under the pier... and on to Black's beach. There usually was no one out there at that time. Later, it became famous after being reported on a surf magazine. After that, it became very crowded. Also, we used to be able to park our cars above and walk down the little path/road. What a great miracle of mother nature and many memories. Thank you for this great presentation.

That pic of everyone in the safe zone looking down the line is insane 🤙

Bro……….long live the Stafford’s! I’m youngest of seven. Great video.

Great wave and vibe!

Thanks dude, l had forgotten about V Land ✌️

similar to JBay

I live 5 minutes from this spot, even got my Rincon BBQ Surfers t shirt on right now haha

broke a board there - was worth it

Overrated overcrowded and never epic

I surfed Rincon a few times ~ Once it was the biggest ever in 1969 when Nueva was out later. The tide was very high in the morning and I jumped off the rocks at the highway to paddle out and I barely made it. Every time I thought I was in the right place a set would come and I exhausted myself paddling for the oil piers out of the impact zone. Finally I thought ~ "I'm safe" and I rested for a few minutes... but then a massive set came. It was over 15 feet and there were only three guys out at this point. As I paddled out for this huge set a guy dropped in super steep and at the bottom his board broke in half under him possibly from a prior fracture. He came up with the tail only. Well, bigger waves were coming and I scrambled outside. It was really very hard to line up so I just followed this other guy around. He told me to line up with landmarks and after a very long time and sitting through a couple giant sets I took off on a wave which seemed to be makeable. I was going so fast that my hair whistled next to my ear, my fin hummed. I got about 3 waves and finally lost my board and no way I was going back out. The waves were washing over the highway and my friend had to move the van it was so big. They said there had been some 20 foot sets. This was all at high tide. I was worn out. Neither of my friends would go out and the way home was all praise and disbelief. If I had seen a huge set from the highway there I would have chickened out. I was 17 years old. Some say the waves got 30 feet on that day. There's no way I could have measured it. All I know was that we had seen it and I actually rode it that day.

Rincon in in Ventura county, not SB

That last sentence is the truth. Long live the Queen.

Leo Carrillo is similar but not as good. If you want to do something really fun ride your bike there from Westlake Village CA. The ride up the mountain is grueling, but coasting down the mountains to Leo Carrillo State Park is worth it. It is where the Dude and Walter took Donnie's ashes. Donnie surfed.

was wondering about this place recently...

Hola first-time touching down on your grid permission to come aboard? Awesome sets 🌊in La Isla De- Encanto, Puerto Rico

Ty Ser! Such a Gem....

Thanks dude, looks totally sick. Reminds me of Sandon Point on the east coast of Oz. Machine Perfection 🤖🌊

That was interesting, too bad it was cut off

Dude why didn't you explain the entire thing. Such a waste of my time.

Good info bad narration

You sound like you need a nap homie and maybe have a Red Bull before your next edit. You sound like a kid reading his book report in front of the class😅😅😂

3:16, 😵‍💫

i would love to see this wave in real life ...but surf it ,,,, no way.. great film 👍

7 mile miracle

I really dig these tutorials on the primo spots. Relax people its surfing not brain surgery🤙

do kitesurfers also ride pipeline

Eddie wouldn't go...

maybe practice reading for several decades and try again

Super crowded. Were you doing this for a 6th grade presentation? Yikes.

They ain’t running anymore cuz