Saw another video where the kid use a single rubber band and it flipped the shell off into a bucket eliminating yet even one extra step, then this method
very good design------you can double your production by not removing your rt hand form the handle.--insert and remove the case with your left hand and just drop the case into a tray below ---time & motion study
Best thing to do at this point is add a "vee" block or replace current case rest block with "vee" block to center the case at the stripper plate entrance. You may need two vee blocks or one and a flat shim to take care of alignment of both 5.56 and 7.62 cases. This will prevent misalignment of the primer pocket and the swage mandrel and prevent killing the case by pinching off the primer pocket wall with a misaligned mandrel.
You want to set up to minimize mandrel penetration into the pocket. This will preserve the main part of the crimp ring and give you one or two more loadings before the primer pocket gets loose.
The brass "retained" ends up helping stretch and distort the actual primer pocket. When primer pockets are crimped the crimper is already "removing" brass or at least is moving it from the case head and OD of the primer pocket to fold it over against the rear of the primer. It's no longer a meaningful part of the case and when the case is decapped it just gets folded back out and is really just a little "ring" of barely attached brass that often gets sheared off during swaging anyway. Swaging is the "solution" to a problem that is literally only about 1/10 of the primer pocket "deep" at most and it takes a nice uniform and nicely machined and square and straight pocket and "molds" it into a rounded bowl-shaped crater. Using a case neck ID reamer to lightly ream the crimp out of the primer pocket "mouth" prevents stretching/distortion of the primer pocket and keeps it uniform and tight, puts a nice chamfer at the pocket mouth that dramatically improves how easily primers can be inserted seated into the still-tight pocket and with a reamer the case length does not matter. It also addresses the actual problem and only the problem and doesn't "punish" the whole primer pocket and in the process make a mess out of it. You also can ream pockets without doing anything else to the case besides decapping it. It's crucial with a Dillon "swager" that the case length be consistent to get a consistent swage and not underswage some pockets and overswage others. I use the neck reamer on my RCBS case prep center and about two seconds per case to perfectly chamfer .223 and .308 cases and .50 BMG cases take more like 3 or 4 seconds. I borrowed a buddy's Dillon swager once and was actually pretty disappointed in it. In true Dillon Precision style precision is required in the cases to get "precise" results. Who decaps/sizes, trims, chamfers/reams cases and then sticks them in a swager that's going to "compress" and "distort" part of the case and affect the "perfect" shape it was just sized, trimmed, reamed and chamfered to produce? Not this guy. Especially when imperfectly swaged cases may as well not be swaged at all when it comes time to prime them.
instead of the plastic tubing, use steel brake tubing with 90 degree bends on each end. The smooth transition of the brake tube should stop most of the cord wear. The brake tube wouldn't need to be full length, just mount both 90s top and bottom.
Upon thinking about this a bit longer, if the mounting block were made of wood and the cord hole was drilled full length, the mounting of the tubing corners could be friction fit in the block. I look forward to your fix. If you ever decide to use your swage on military 45ACP, sort out the pre WW2 brass. It has a much thicker web thickness near the head, causing lots of issues.
I would think if you were to eliminate all the right angles/sharp edges and simply round off the corners where the para cord travels it would extend the time between having to replace the cord. What about apply a Dry or Wet Lube to reduce the friction? Maybe even adding a wheel type pulley such as on tracks from sliding screen doors? Just a thought. Excellent idea for making the process more efficient though. Like my Dad used to say "sometimes a Lazy Engineer makes for a Good Engineer" Anyway Thanks for the video and sharing your design improvement.
I tried a roller pulley with no luck but I found awesome fix to my problem. I formed a cooper guide and no more issues with paracord. The cooper is soft and flexable. I will come back with another video. Feedback is always welcome. Thank You, Good Shooting my Friend
When you try to show a closeup take an index card and place it behind the object you are trying to show, it will help your camera focus on the item quickly, just a suggestion. I wonder how well 50-80 lb fishing superline would hold up. I would have less stretch. Fireline or Power Pro... Creative in your setup, kudo's to you for thinking out of the box!
Great idea on the index card behind the item, going to try it in my next video. I wll be making another video, one of my subscriber gave me a tip, I took that tip and expanding on better system. Good Shooting my Friend
Hey Harleychromeman. A great vid and I love your shop set up. Have you checked out Dillon’s 550 B long thin spring as a possible substitute for para cord? Dillon sells the spring for their powder bar return on older 550Bs. It might work for you. It is long and used to loop around the powder dispenser tube housing and is no longer part of the new powder conversion kits. I just collected 800 rounds of range brass and had my first encounter with NATO pocket primers. I have no swager but unable to spring for Big Blue’s beautiful Dillon Swager, I have ordered the RCBS swage Die... expecting weeks before delivery. Until then I am using a large bur that can lightly hand remove the crimp edge on face of cases while only removing a smidge of brass. Leverman77
New subscriber was wondering where you got those big red bullet trays or Ben that you're throwing the 223 swage brass into??? I need some and I'm only guy in those are perfect color. LOL
It depend a lot on several factors. Powder loads, Primers or max loads play a big factor. I load for the most part middle of the loads. I can usually reload about 6-8 times. If I load on the max side about 3 times. higher the load or plus P primers your start to see splits in the brass around the neck of the case. Great Question, thanks for stopping by my channel. Good Shooting my Friend
Saw another video where the kid use a single rubber band and it flipped the shell off into a bucket eliminating yet even one extra step, then this method
very good design------you can double your production by not removing your rt hand form the handle.--insert and remove the case with your left hand and just drop the case into a tray below ---time & motion study
I'm one of the flingers you referenced. I can do 3 to your 1. Its all about what works for the individual.
Very innovative! Thanks.
Best thing to do at this point is add a "vee" block or replace current case rest block with "vee" block to center the case at the stripper plate entrance. You may need two vee blocks or one and a flat shim to take care of alignment of both 5.56 and 7.62 cases. This will prevent misalignment of the primer pocket and the swage mandrel and prevent killing the case by pinching off the primer pocket wall with a misaligned mandrel.
You want to set up to minimize mandrel penetration into the pocket. This will preserve the main part of the crimp ring and give you one or two more loadings before the primer pocket gets loose.
Once again, nice video my friend
To swage or to ream, that is the question. For wether it is knobbier in the mind to ream, or by swaging, retain brass.
The brass "retained" ends up helping stretch and distort the actual primer pocket. When primer pockets are crimped the crimper is already "removing" brass or at least is moving it from the case head and OD of the primer pocket to fold it over against the rear of the primer. It's no longer a meaningful part of the case and when the case is decapped it just gets folded back out and is really just a little "ring" of barely attached brass that often gets sheared off during swaging anyway. Swaging is the "solution" to a problem that is literally only about 1/10 of the primer pocket "deep" at most and it takes a nice uniform and nicely machined and square and straight pocket and "molds" it into a rounded bowl-shaped crater. Using a case neck ID reamer to lightly ream the crimp out of the primer pocket "mouth" prevents stretching/distortion of the primer pocket and keeps it uniform and tight, puts a nice chamfer at the pocket mouth that dramatically improves how easily primers can be inserted seated into the still-tight pocket and with a reamer the case length does not matter. It also addresses the actual problem and only the problem and doesn't "punish" the whole primer pocket and in the process make a mess out of it. You also can ream pockets without doing anything else to the case besides decapping it. It's crucial with a Dillon "swager" that the case length be consistent to get a consistent swage and not underswage some pockets and overswage others. I use the neck reamer on my RCBS case prep center and about two seconds per case to perfectly chamfer .223 and .308 cases and .50 BMG cases take more like 3 or 4 seconds. I borrowed a buddy's Dillon swager once and was actually pretty disappointed in it. In true Dillon Precision style precision is required in the cases to get "precise" results. Who decaps/sizes, trims, chamfers/reams cases and then sticks them in a swager that's going to "compress" and "distort" part of the case and affect the "perfect" shape it was just sized, trimmed, reamed and chamfered to produce? Not this guy. Especially when imperfectly swaged cases may as well not be swaged at all when it comes time to prime them.
instead of the plastic tubing, use steel brake tubing with 90 degree bends on each end. The smooth transition of the brake tube should stop most of the cord wear. The brake tube wouldn't need to be full length, just mount both 90s top and bottom.
Yep, going to be trying a few different things that my subscriber have suggested. I will put yours on my list as well. Thanks Good Shooting my Friend
Upon thinking about this a bit longer, if the mounting block were made of wood and the cord hole was drilled full length, the mounting of the tubing corners could be friction fit in the block. I look forward to your fix. If you ever decide to use your swage on military 45ACP, sort out the pre WW2 brass. It has a much thicker web thickness near the head, causing lots of issues.
@@Harleychromeman You could try Amsteel instead of paracord. No stretch and as strong as steel.
I would think if you were to eliminate all the right angles/sharp edges and simply round off the corners where the para cord travels it would extend the time between having to replace the cord. What about apply a Dry or Wet Lube to reduce the friction? Maybe even adding a wheel type pulley such as on tracks from sliding screen doors? Just a thought. Excellent idea for making the process more efficient though. Like my Dad used to say "sometimes a Lazy Engineer makes for a Good Engineer" Anyway Thanks for the video and sharing your design improvement.
I tried a roller pulley with no luck but I found awesome fix to my problem. I formed a cooper guide and no more issues with paracord. The cooper is soft and flexable. I will come back with another video. Feedback is always welcome. Thank You, Good Shooting my Friend
When you try to show a closeup take an index card and place it behind the object you are trying to show, it will help your camera focus on the item quickly, just a suggestion.
I wonder how well 50-80 lb fishing superline would hold up. I would have less stretch. Fireline or Power Pro...
Creative in your setup, kudo's to you for thinking out of the box!
Great idea on the index card behind the item, going to try it in my next video. I wll be making another video, one of my subscriber gave me a tip, I took that tip and expanding on better system. Good Shooting my Friend
Try dynema cord, from bow hunting/spear fishing string applications. No stretching and long wear.
I just use a drill bit nice swager tool though.
Put u a little pulley on both sides and it should keep the paracord from wearing out as fast
Genius love it
Hey Harleychromeman. A great vid and I love your shop set up. Have you checked out Dillon’s 550 B long thin spring as a possible substitute for para cord? Dillon sells the spring for their powder bar return on older 550Bs. It might work for you. It is long and used to loop around the powder dispenser tube housing and is no longer part of the new powder conversion kits. I just collected 800 rounds of range brass and had my first encounter with NATO pocket primers. I have no swager but unable to spring for Big Blue’s beautiful Dillon Swager, I have ordered the RCBS swage Die... expecting weeks before delivery. Until then I am using a large bur that can lightly hand remove the crimp edge on face of cases while only removing a smidge of brass. Leverman77
thats a lot of over thinking as most just use 1 spring to fling out versus tip out and a catch cloth
This machine work with 9mm? thanks
Have you considered using roller chain? Like the chains used in self opening folder knives.
Sweet, do another room tour
Consider it done! Good to hear from you again. I will do that this week. Good Shooting my Friend
New subscriber was wondering where you got those big red bullet trays or Ben that you're throwing the 223 swage brass into??? I need some and I'm only guy in those are perfect color. LOL
Bought them from Grainger, little pricey but worth the money. Good Shooting my Friend!
This is fucking brilliant.
Thanks for feedback, it does save me a lot of time. Good Shooting my Friend
What's the red machine to the left of your dillon swager
Hornady Prep Station. It preps all your brass with a lot of thing you can do on it. Good Shooting my Good Friend
Try cable
How about plastic coated cable..
Already tried it but wait for future video, I made a few changes. Good Shooting my Friend
Put your cord in hot water and let it dry, should help.
Thanks, I will try that Sir, Good Shooting my Friend
How many times can you re-load 223/5.56 brass?
It depend a lot on several factors. Powder loads, Primers or max loads play a big factor. I load for the most part middle of the loads. I can usually reload about 6-8 times. If I load on the max side about 3 times. higher the load or plus P primers your start to see splits in the brass around the neck of the case. Great Question, thanks for stopping by my channel. Good Shooting my Friend
Big papi? Pot belly...