Have you tried to tune carbs by thinning throttle and choke shaft and grind the bolts? Done this to three saws now and I swear by it. Opens up at least 10% more at full throttle and gets air to flow less turbulent through the venturi and therfore surely causes a better high jet function.
620 coil has 8 degree advance over 590 coil gearheads 6 degree advance key works very well I wonder if there is any other carbs that will work on the 590 other than 620 Great video
I didn't know that a coil provides ignition advance, I'm thinking in terms of the old school "dumb coil", that produces spark every revolution. Providing the rev limited/advancing ignition trigger must be the electronics inside of the more advance coils. I'm now wondering if Stihl (M-tronic) and Husqvarna (AutoTune) have the microprocessor control both the carburetor and ignition timing together? I need to crawl out from under my rock and get with it.
I’m sure echo has plenty built in insurance policies per say, in those carbs and ignition system, I bet a slight timing advance would change the game 👍👍
If you want a saw to build up get the 620. If you want to leave it alone and sacrifice power for cost get the 590. Stock muffler is a power restriction on both saws.
Expense of low-end torque. Maybe a little bit timing will change it for the best but you know what you're doing. Sorry about unfinishing the last comment. Wet screen at the time. Thanks truly
It's all about the port work. I'm not a master saw builder but I've watch a lot of them and they can build for torque or revs or in most cases a work build that will give you more of both. They use combination of changing intake and exhaust timing as well as machining the cylinder jug or making a pop up piston to bump compression and sometimes changing key on the flywheel to add or remove ignition timing. It seems like something that you have to do to learn at least from the outside looking in. Most builders seem to improve with every time they build a saw I don't think anyone gets it perfect the first shot.
On your second cut with the carburetor and coil you didn’t have it leaned out enough…. You had more power hidden… if you listen it’s four stroking as it’s going down through the cut… you want to be at the magic spot on your high jet screw where you are just above or closed up some so it’s just above that four stroking stumbling as it’s going down through the cut… it’s very close but it’s just a tad too far open on the high jet… if left like that you couldn’t burn it up… like if a guy keeps pushing through a cut with a dull chain or something like that happens? So it’s safe slightly rich….
Have you tried to tune carbs by thinning throttle and choke shaft and grind the bolts? Done this to three saws now and I swear by it. Opens up at least 10% more at full throttle and gets air to flow less turbulent through the venturi and therfore surely causes a better high jet function.
Very interesting results! Agreed, definitely not worth the cost to "upgrade" the carb and coil on an otherwise stock CS-590! Thanks for sharing👍
Thanks for the work in those honest comparisons.
i am learning right with you
Thanks for all the time you put in. Think about cheap maccullough eagerbeaver 2.0. What can you get out of them.
Another great one
620 coil has 8 degree advance over 590 coil
gearheads 6 degree advance key works very well
I wonder if there is any other carbs that will work on the 590 other than 620
Great video
I didn't know that a coil provides ignition advance, I'm thinking in terms of the old school "dumb coil", that produces spark every revolution. Providing the rev limited/advancing ignition trigger must be the electronics inside of the more advance coils. I'm now wondering if Stihl (M-tronic) and Husqvarna (AutoTune) have the microprocessor control both the carburetor and ignition timing together? I need to crawl out from under my rock and get with it.
@@w6qd these figures are from echoes own literature as I understand it the mounting of the coil creates the 8 degree advance
Watched somewhere where someone used a Stihl 036 coil I'm pretty sure.
Love my echos, but if you got into the neotecs and new farm macs, you’d definitely get alot of views… plus, would be perfect giveaway saws
I’m sure echo has plenty built in insurance policies per say, in those carbs and ignition system, I bet a slight timing advance would change the game 👍👍
Gear Head sells flywheel keys to advance timing. Check him out
Would you feel after all the money to upgrade the 590 it would be fair to just jump straight to the 620?
It’s cheaper to just buy the 620 outright… the Shindawia 600zx is a great option if you can find one..,
If you want a saw to build up get the 620. If you want to leave it alone and sacrifice power for cost get the 590. Stock muffler is a power restriction on both saws.
It kinda sounded like the carb was out of wake. But the sound can be off
That 620 carb here and there 4 strokes in the cut. I would consider it fat
Don't know much about chainsaws but have worked on many hotrod cars. Seems to me like porting makes more topend HP at low end torque
Expense of low-end torque. Maybe a little bit timing will change it for the best but you know what you're doing. Sorry about unfinishing the last comment. Wet screen at the time. Thanks truly
It's all about the port work. I'm not a master saw builder but I've watch a lot of them and they can build for torque or revs or in most cases a work build that will give you more of both. They use combination of changing intake and exhaust timing as well as machining the cylinder jug or making a pop up piston to bump compression and sometimes changing key on the flywheel to add or remove ignition timing. It seems like something that you have to do to learn at least from the outside looking in. Most builders seem to improve with every time they build a saw I don't think anyone gets it perfect the first shot.
On your second cut with the carburetor and coil you didn’t have it leaned out enough…. You had more power hidden… if you listen it’s four stroking as it’s going down through the cut… you want to be at the magic spot on your high jet screw where you are just above or closed up some so it’s just above that four stroking stumbling as it’s going down through the cut… it’s very close but it’s just a tad too far open on the high jet… if left like that you couldn’t burn it up… like if a guy keeps pushing through a cut with a dull chain or something like that happens? So it’s safe slightly rich….
👍