This is great advice. My wife's e90 water pump died about five years ago. Engine overheated and stopped in the middle of a busy highway. It was a 100 deg day. Baby in the back crying. I had to go save them and get a tow. Do not get stranded, it is worse than doing this job early.
You are right...my own experience too. After I have finished some other jobs on my car and thinking that water pump gonna last some time.... Got stranded same day at night during test run with OH engine 🤯. I was lucky it was cold so I was able to run for 3kms then wait to cool engine down and again...awfull experience 😖
It’s at least 4-5hr Job guys on your back - a bit easier in an E60 as you dont need to removed the sway bar. OEM water pump is pierberg and the OEM thermostat is behr. 👍🏼
Excellent video as always, saved me a lot of trouble! Just two comments: 1. I removed the expansion tank and disconnected the hoses on the thermostat from the top, i find it a lot easier. 2. You can actually remove both parts without disconnecting the sway bar. It's a pain, but it's managable if you have no other options (e.g. car is jacked from one side)
@@reseed4950 all of them are hard af. There is no guarantee that you can remove them without braking the connectors. Try completely removing the metal wire clip (you can reinsert it later) and WD40. But i just broke my radiator while replacing the top hose so maybe I'm not the best to give advice 😅
the biggest challenge in doing this job is removing the 3rd bolt on the pump and the two thermostat hoses with the clips. George didn't show the 3rd bolt removal, I ordered new tools to remove it. My car has been on ramps for 3 weeks now. Luckily, I use my other car. Good video George!
Well done, will use it as a reference guide for my N52 👍 You could have used the bleeding procedure instead of starting the engine and it's very simple : - push start button but don't start the engine - set the heating temperature to maximum - press and hold down the accelerator for 10 sec. The water pump will run for 5-10 minutes. And don't close the drivers door ! or the process will stop
thankfully my water pump/thermostat were done in 2014 by one of the previous owners, do I don't need to tackle this Nice to have a guide on how to do it for when the time comes though!
This job and the ccv valve was the two biggest and hardest jobs iv done on the N52, you defiantly need patience and is not for someone who is a novice. Trust me George makes this look 100 time easier than it is. All I have left to do is the sump gasket and gearbox service. However I think I will let a new owner do it. M140i time for me now.
I had a laugh when you took the wrong bolt out, as I did the exact same thing. I didn't take the bar off but, I'm waiting on the new parts and may take it off to put pump back in as it may help it go easier. Thanks for the video.👍
On jack stands you really need to pull the radiator out along with the expansion tank, those two quick release clips are almost unmaneuverable on the turbo engines
Thanks for the guidance for removing the pump and thermostat. Would you have the torque setting for the bolts. And the amount of coolant needed plus part number. Thanks
You must’ve not owned it long enough N52s are plastic junk motors let me know when you do the oil pan on yours you won’t love it much but N54 and B58 all day
@@g37fy68 you are lying so hard, n52's especially if you get the earlier magnesium valve head ones are really reliable engines, the turbo on the n54 makes it a worse off motor than the easily replaceable plastic parts on n52
great video,when you release the coolant however,make sure you turn the blue plastic inner!..not the grey outer hex.awesome job though,gives me confidence to do mine .thanks very much.
My alignment is slightly off after completing this job. Would that be because I didn't torque the sway bar to spec (I don't have a torque wrench), or because i somehow put it back on wrong? Thanks for the video though mate!
Nice video. I know you said the thermostat did not have a date stamp, but on the Waterpump, did it have a date stamp on it, if so which part of the Waterpump?
hey George, outstanding presentation, thanks. Just a couple of questions from your convict colony. 1- what is torque rating for the thermo to pump, also the pump to block? 2- exactly how much coolant to the face is helpful, in millilitres as we're metric in Oz? 🤪
What are the reasons that make the water pump in the car 6 cylinder 530 BMW model 2006 does not stop working even when the car is turned off, it works on a clock
If you still recall, what was your secret to get out the third bolt on top of the waterpump? I also initially took out the wrong bolt. Eventually got it out by having a friend guide my socket from above since totally working blind with little space to maneuver socket attached to extension.
Sadly just got stranded after only having my e91 325i for less than 2 weeks... it sucks so bad. Got rid of my perfectly good e39 530d due to mr khan. Thanks. Just ordered a piersburg pump and mahale thermoatat. Wish me luck this weekend 😪😪
My '06 330i N52b30a won't go above 80°C. No error codes suggesting thermostat failure, no error codes at all in fact. However there was a code for the seized radiator fan, which I have replaced and the code cleared itself. Any suggestions?
I have the same issue. Theoretically it is a stuck open thermostat. The coolant is circulated via the radiator all the time preventing to reach the operational temperature of the engine. Thermostat should open above 90C degree (97) to the radiator direction only. If you have a chance warm up the engine to 60C of coolant and remove the undertray. Check the temperature of the coolant pipe from the thermostat to the radiator. If it is warm than you have this case. It should be replaced. Reporting back if I am finished.
Hi, George thank you for your videos, very good guidance for all of us here in my area of san Francisco California. can you tell me the brand name of the water pump and thermostat i have a 2021 X5 non turbo. in need of these exact parts to be replaced thank you so much for the update.
Good clear guide for this job. A must-do for any N52 to prevent cooking it. It did irk me every time he said "sway bar" though....you're English, not American!
@@GeorgeAusters I'm pretty sure most Americans can understand English English...and if they can't, well, maybe they need to learn! They do supposedly speak English after all.
@@unlicensed_camera Sooooo....what? You think that everyone else in the world should pander to the most commonly spoken language to make life easier for THEM...? If we all took that to it's ultimate conclusion, NOBODY would be speaking English, full stop.
Another good vid; got two of these to do at some point on my 130 and my other half’s 125. Joy. Any chance of listing the torque settings (unless I’ve been stupid and missed it….), 👍
Torque settings aren’t particularly important as the bolts are only fastening the waterpump to the engine, not holding water or oil in. I believe it’s 10nm for all the bolts.
This is exactly what I wanted to watch 👏. Its kinda job to do, but of course you have handle it like a charm 😊. Anyway I would like to see exactly the same but on Xi...I want to see so suffer someone else than me 😂. Excellent and detailed video mate 🙌
I have code, 2E85 water pump communication missing. Is this likely I just need a new pump, or is there other reasons I should look into first? I love your 130i content, it's so clear and helpful
Just an opinion, the new thermostat housing is rather a downgrade because is abs plastic compared to the oe aluminium one witch will not crack and fall apart losing all the coolant, even if its main function is not done properly anymore. However it will be interesting to find out if a new oe one, bmw branded, is still made from aluminium. I wouldn't be surprised if the same Behr or Mahle or whatever manufacturer is supply this part for bmw, will give bmw genuine part an aluminium housing and the rest of the market a "premium" plastic one. At this point is also interesting to see the price, is it the same? sure not, but are you really pay more just for bmw branding or you actually get more for the buck? I can only speak from my experience for example on e39 if you buy an water pump Pierburg in the package you will find the water pump and the gasket also, however if you buy the same Pierburg pump but oe bmw branded one, you will get a white box with bmw logo and part nmb on it, and the package contains data sheet with specs and torqs and the water pump only - NO gasket, and the pump itself seems to have better materials! Now when you buy the genuine gasket separately, you will find out that is different also from the one that you freely recieved in the blue pierburg package - how so? Well even if the shape is the same for sure, the materials are not, the genuine ones branded bmw are better overall - at least in my case, could be different depending on markets, but my point is that the assumption that the same part made by the same manufacturer is more expensive just because is bmw branded is not always true, is not always exactly the same part or exactly the same quality, and is not always double or triple regarding the price also. So, if we could only check all these aspects before buying... Now be honest, wouldn't you preferred the thermostat to be exactly the same as the original one? Weren't you a bit disappointed when you saw it is different? You know I'm right, the plastic one will crack, and when it does... Just for curiosity the old one was stoked in open position? I think is a fail-safe design... As always another great video George!
👉👉👉Help please: i own 2008 bmw x3 e83 2.0D 4x4 automatic with 145000 km (110000 miles) on the counter.A couple months back i started having issues with the rough idle. After i would start the engine for the first 20-40 seconds rev's would go up and down with a bit of a white smoke from the exhaust. I cleaned the injectors/new kit, new glow plugs with the new module....car is fully serviced, so no issues there. Still when cold starting the engine i have rough idle for the 10-15 seconds (no smoke) and as well while driving form low speeds and when the revs come to around 1000-1100 rpm's looses power/hiccup...and when i pass those revs all is fine. I checked old maf sensor and replaced with the new one just for the test, same happened...so i put back the old one. Is it maybe the fuel pump or something else...PLEASE advice!!! The previous owner: changed egr, dpf, cleaned turbo, intake manifold . I did a good service as well. Its not neglected car for sure. Best Jure
I rebuilt the coolant system on the Z3 Coupe with the M54 at beginning of pandemic as a preventative measure. The water pump and thermostat were much easier to access on the M54. Thinking about doing this on the Z4 e89 with the N52. This video is helpful! But at my age it’d take me 2 or 3 days, not 2-3 hours, as I work til I’m tired or irritated and go back the next day. The antifreeze on your chin made me laugh a bit, George. Last week I changed the gear oil in the front differential of my 328i XDrive and got diff fluid in my eye.
Spot on got to do the same on my e92 320i m sport and have the same parts you've shown will have to seek torque settings... But great good and great videos as always👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
This is great advice. My wife's e90 water pump died about five years ago. Engine overheated and stopped in the middle of a busy highway. It was a 100 deg day. Baby in the back crying. I had to go save them and get a tow. Do not get stranded, it is worse than doing this job early.
Yep!
You are right...my own experience too. After I have finished some other jobs on my car and thinking that water pump gonna last some time.... Got stranded same day at night during test run with OH engine 🤯. I was lucky it was cold so I was able to run for 3kms then wait to cool engine down and again...awfull experience 😖
It’s at least 4-5hr Job guys on your back - a bit easier in an E60 as you dont need to removed the sway bar. OEM water pump is pierberg and the OEM thermostat is behr. 👍🏼
I did it in about 30-40 mins
Excellent video as always, saved me a lot of trouble! Just two comments:
1. I removed the expansion tank and disconnected the hoses on the thermostat from the top, i find it a lot easier.
2. You can actually remove both parts without disconnecting the sway bar. It's a pain, but it's managable if you have no other options (e.g. car is jacked from one side)
Yo, when removing the two quick disconnect hoses through the top, how hard did you have to pull? Was it stuck?
@@reseed4950 all of them are hard af. There is no guarantee that you can remove them without braking the connectors. Try completely removing the metal wire clip (you can reinsert it later) and WD40. But i just broke my radiator while replacing the top hose so maybe I'm not the best to give advice 😅
@@agadamSystem yeah update I fucking sent it with a crowbar, don't think I broke anything- will find out soon 😁
the biggest challenge in doing this job is removing the 3rd bolt on the pump and the two thermostat hoses with the clips.
George didn't show the 3rd bolt removal, I ordered new tools to remove it. My car has been on ramps for 3 weeks now.
Luckily, I use my other car. Good video George!
Definitely is the hardest and impossible to get a camera in there
I just ordered a new pump +thermostat from fcp euro, what extra tool did you need for that rear bolt?
Well done, will use it as a reference guide for my N52 👍
You could have used the bleeding procedure instead of starting the engine and it's very simple :
- push start button but don't start the engine
- set the heating temperature to maximum
- press and hold down the accelerator for 10 sec.
The water pump will run for 5-10 minutes.
And don't close the drivers door ! or the process will stop
Yes I’ve made a video how to bleed the cooling system👍🏻
W
Is there a similar procedure for the E60 without push button start?
thankfully my water pump/thermostat were done in 2014 by one of the previous owners, do I don't need to tackle this
Nice to have a guide on how to do it for when the time comes though!
Im gonna do this outside in the snow here in Norway tomorrow🤣 minus 10 degrees. Gonna be cold.
Good luck man!
@@GeorgeAusters Thanks man!
This job and the ccv valve was the two biggest and hardest jobs iv done on the N52, you defiantly need patience and is not for someone who is a novice. Trust me George makes this look 100 time easier than it is. All I have left to do is the sump gasket and gearbox service. However I think I will let a new owner do it. M140i time for me now.
I had a laugh when you took the wrong bolt out, as I did the exact same thing. I didn't take the bar off but, I'm waiting on the new parts and may take it off to put pump back in as it may help it go easier. Thanks for the video.👍
The 3rd bolt behind the water pump was installed by a BMW sadomasochist.
On jack stands you really need to pull the radiator out along with the expansion tank, those two quick release clips are almost unmaneuverable on the turbo engines
Thanks for the guidance for removing the pump and thermostat. Would you have the torque setting for the bolts.
And the amount of coolant needed plus part number. Thanks
Great video! The famous water pump finally tackled
Thanks bud
Love the N52. Did so much stuff to mine and it’s a gem of an engine and E8x as a platform car.
You must’ve not owned it long enough N52s are plastic junk motors let me know when you do the oil pan on yours you won’t love it much but N54 and B58 all day
@@g37fy68 you dont know anything about motors n54 is far worse of a motor lmaoo the n52 is basically bullet prooof
@@g37fy68 you are lying so hard, n52's especially if you get the earlier magnesium valve head ones are really reliable engines, the turbo on the n54 makes it a worse off motor than the easily replaceable plastic parts on n52
@@g37fy68im at 180k and only problems I’ve had is radiator
same here . that's it! Thinking about doing the wp . but tbh I wanna see how long it will last. @@omyyyinsanity4426
great video,when you release the coolant however,make sure you turn the blue plastic inner!..not the grey outer hex.awesome job though,gives me confidence to do mine .thanks very much.
1. How much ratio do you mix the coolant and deionised water? 2. Can we use other compatible coolant like from liqui moly brand?
Thanks for the video! Is this similar for the E87 N46 engines? Wife’s 118i water pump is leaking and need replacing now.
Another very helpful video - thanks so much. I subscribed just so I could hear you say "anuuthur job done" at some point in the future! Thanks again!
My alignment is slightly off after completing this job. Would that be because I didn't torque the sway bar to spec (I don't have a torque wrench), or because i somehow put it back on wrong?
Thanks for the video though mate!
I don’t know how you could put the sway bar back wrong?
@ could it be because i didn't torque it to spec? but i don't know either
Nice video. I know you said the thermostat did not have a date stamp, but on the Waterpump, did it have a date stamp on it, if so which part of the Waterpump?
Not sure didn’t bother to check but it was replaced in 2011 I believe👍🏻
hey George, outstanding presentation, thanks. Just a couple of questions from your convict colony. 1- what is torque rating for the thermo to pump, also the pump to block? 2- exactly how much coolant to the face is helpful, in millilitres as we're metric in Oz? 🤪
10nm is enough and 5L coolant and 5L deionised water is enough if you’ve done a full flush
another great vid and best music to end keep it up buddy
Thanks Gary
What are the reasons that make the water pump in the car 6 cylinder 530 BMW model 2006 does not stop working even when the car is turned off, it works on a clock
If you still recall, what was your secret to get out the third bolt on top of the waterpump? I also initially took out the wrong bolt. Eventually got it out by having a friend guide my socket from above since totally working blind with little space to maneuver socket attached to extension.
I just used a long extension and guided it on
Also helps if you have a telescoping mirror off to the side.
I done it from the top.
Sadly just got stranded after only having my e91 325i for less than 2 weeks... it sucks so bad.
Got rid of my perfectly good e39 530d due to mr khan. Thanks.
Just ordered a piersburg pump and mahale thermoatat. Wish me luck this weekend 😪😪
Yes these things are better to be replaced BEFORE they leave you stranded👍🏻
@GeorgeAusters it's just the 3 bolts that hold pump to block that need to be renewed mate? Not the 2 bolting thermostat to pump ?
@@InsulinDependentDean Correct
@@GeorgeAusters cheers bro
My '06 330i N52b30a won't go above 80°C. No error codes suggesting thermostat failure, no error codes at all in fact. However there was a code for the seized radiator fan, which I have replaced and the code cleared itself. Any suggestions?
I have the same issue. Theoretically it is a stuck open thermostat. The coolant is circulated via the radiator all the time preventing to reach the operational temperature of the engine. Thermostat should open above 90C degree (97) to the radiator direction only. If you have a chance warm up the engine to 60C of coolant and remove the undertray. Check the temperature of the coolant pipe from the thermostat to the radiator. If it is warm than you have this case. It should be replaced. Reporting back if I am finished.
Excellent instructional video, I learned some things I didn't know. Thank You for posting!
hey man do i need to replace my thermostat even if i don't have a code for it ?
Yes
Hi, George thank you for your videos, very good guidance for all of us here in my area of san Francisco California. can you tell me the brand name of the water pump and thermostat i have a 2021 X5 non turbo. in need of these exact parts to be replaced thank you so much for the update.
How long did it take you
Why was your old coolant all water? Was there no antifreeze in the system?
There was some
Does anyone know if I should change my pump and thermostat or not yet its an e60 2010 with 63k miles on clock has an n53 engine thanks
What size are the 3 bolts on the water pump? I must have missed that. 🤔
E10 I think!
Thanks man
Don't drink coolant kids 😂😂😂, I am looking forward to do it on my 130i, Thanks George
Haha you’re welcome Petr👍🏻
Thought BM's took G48 coolant George?
No mate
Great video as always George 👌Would this be easier if you removed the front bumper etc?
I would say no as it's more underneath rather than at the front
@@GeorgeAusters Cheers brother 👍
My mate uses coolant like all the time
I have e60 n52 and i did it in about 30-40 min
how we’re u able to remove the hoses in the back of the thermostat where the clamp is facing the wrong way
I did however catch the step brothers quote 😂
Will you do the same for the n47?
More than likely in the future!
@@GeorgeAusters is the process the same for E87 N46 engine?
Good clear guide for this job. A must-do for any N52 to prevent cooking it. It did irk me every time he said "sway bar" though....you're English, not American!
It’s because the viewers of this video are mostly American 👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters I'm pretty sure most Americans can understand English English...and if they can't, well, maybe they need to learn! They do supposedly speak English after all.
@@soundseeker63 more people speak American English than bri'ish English tho sooooo.
@@unlicensed_camera Sooooo....what? You think that everyone else in the world should pander to the most commonly spoken language to make life easier for THEM...? If we all took that to it's ultimate conclusion, NOBODY would be speaking English, full stop.
@@soundseeker63 Yes (insert gigachad chad meme here)
Please put video for BMW F10 parts need to replace
are they ok to hand tight every bolts?
Always best to torque but they are not exactly critical bolts
On what side is the driver's side of your car. I am trying to orient myself under my car and match it to your video.
Driver side in my case meaning the right side of the car facing forward
Mine is tucked further back and i cant even get to the 2 side bolts because they are behind the frame....
AWD?
You have so clean engine room as for 16y.o. vehicle. Have you wash it ?
Yes watch this video: HOW TO SUPERCLEAN A BMW ENGINE BAY
ruclips.net/video/dmXAWb0YpQs/видео.html
@@GeorgeAusters Thankyou
Do I need to replace the SerpenTine belt if I got water on it
No
Another good vid; got two of these to do at some point on my 130 and my other half’s 125. Joy.
Any chance of listing the torque settings (unless I’ve been stupid and missed it….), 👍
Torque settings aren’t particularly important as the bolts are only fastening the waterpump to the engine, not holding water or oil in. I believe it’s 10nm for all the bolts.
You make it seem so simple, have you learned it by yourself? or did you work as a mechanic or something?
It’s all nuts and bolts at the end of the day.. Just break things down into smaller steps. Everything I know is pretty much self taught👍🏻
Is this same concept on a 2013 128i n52
Yes
This is exactly what I wanted to watch 👏. Its kinda job to do, but of course you have handle it like a charm 😊. Anyway I would like to see exactly the same but on Xi...I want to see so suffer someone else than me 😂. Excellent and detailed video mate 🙌
Haha yeah I can see it taking twice as long with front drive shafts to contend with too!
@@GeorgeAusters 😂exactly mate!
Is this the same engine on the 2012 X3?
No it won't be
I have code, 2E85 water pump communication missing. Is this likely I just need a new pump, or is there other reasons I should look into first? I love your 130i content, it's so clear and helpful
Check your pump is plugged in
Hi George, where do you get your knowledge?
Haynes manual or you use something else?
Looking for something for my Z4
Most is just self taught or trial and error / common sense👍🏻
how much worse is this on an xdrive?
Just an opinion, the new thermostat housing is rather a downgrade because is abs plastic compared to the oe aluminium one witch will not crack and fall apart losing all the coolant, even if its main function is not done properly anymore. However it will be interesting to find out if a new oe one, bmw branded, is still made from aluminium. I wouldn't be surprised if the same Behr or Mahle or whatever manufacturer is supply this part for bmw, will give bmw genuine part an aluminium housing and the rest of the market a "premium" plastic one. At this point is also interesting to see the price, is it the same? sure not, but are you really pay more just for bmw branding or you actually get more for the buck? I can only speak from my experience for example on e39 if you buy an water pump Pierburg in the package you will find the water pump and the gasket also, however if you buy the same Pierburg pump but oe bmw branded one, you will get a white box with bmw logo and part nmb on it, and the package contains data sheet with specs and torqs and the water pump only - NO gasket, and the pump itself seems to have better materials! Now when you buy the genuine gasket separately, you will find out that is different also from the one that you freely recieved in the blue pierburg package - how so? Well even if the shape is the same for sure, the materials are not, the genuine ones branded bmw are better overall - at least in my case, could be different depending on markets, but my point is that the assumption that the same part made by the same manufacturer is more expensive just because is bmw branded is not always true, is not always exactly the same part or exactly the same quality, and is not always double or triple regarding the price also. So, if we could only check all these aspects before buying... Now be honest, wouldn't you preferred the thermostat to be exactly the same as the original one? Weren't you a bit disappointed when you saw it is different? You know I'm right, the plastic one will crack, and when it does... Just for curiosity the old one was stoked in open position? I think is a fail-safe design...
As always another great video George!
Excellent video. I’ve just done the same and this helped loads.Great channel 👍😎
Thanks Adam!
👉👉👉Help please: i own 2008 bmw x3 e83 2.0D 4x4 automatic with 145000 km (110000 miles) on the counter.A couple months back i started having issues with the rough idle.
After i would start the engine for the first 20-40 seconds rev's would go up and down with a bit of a white smoke from the exhaust.
I cleaned the injectors/new kit, new glow plugs with the new module....car is fully serviced, so no issues there.
Still when cold starting the engine i have rough idle for the 10-15 seconds (no smoke) and as well while driving form low speeds and when the revs come to around 1000-1100 rpm's looses power/hiccup...and when i pass those revs all is fine.
I checked old maf sensor and replaced with the new one just for the test, same happened...so i put back the old one.
Is it maybe the fuel pump or something else...PLEASE advice!!!
The previous owner: changed egr, dpf, cleaned turbo, intake manifold . I did a good service as well. Its not neglected car for sure.
Best
Jure
Hi George i dont need the 👍 I need your help!!!!!!!
Nice video but it would be more helpful for people that have 130i if they would search 130i water pump/thermostat replacement as a title.
Agreed. Needs to be searchable
Thanks I’ll change it to something N52 related as it is relevant to all N52 models
Awesome 👏🏼 ! Thanks !!
You bet!
Se esse é o jeito fácil imagina o difícil 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Well done!
Thanks Adam
You for got to show where to radiator bleed is
Watch this: BMW N52 Complete Coolant Flush & Bleeding Procedure
ruclips.net/video/PBmB69Zb0OU/видео.html
Very Good Show .Old Chap
And don't just go buy any Pierburg water pump, make sure its the correct replacement for your car before you buy.
No mention of the torque settings?
Not really critical but around 10nm for all the bolts
@@GeorgeAustersit's 10 nm followed by a 90 degree turn. And you *must* use new bolts, these are aluminium bolts and *will* crack if re-used.
Great video.
Thanks buddy!
I rebuilt the coolant system on the Z3 Coupe with the M54 at beginning of pandemic as a preventative measure. The water pump and thermostat were much easier to access on the M54.
Thinking about doing this on the Z4 e89 with the N52. This video is helpful! But at my age it’d take me 2 or 3 days, not 2-3 hours, as I work til I’m tired or irritated and go back the next day.
The antifreeze on your chin made me laugh a bit, George. Last week I changed the gear oil in the front differential of my 328i XDrive and got diff fluid in my eye.
Haha yeah just take your time with this job really. Anything in your eye is no fun - take away wear goggles!
Spot on got to do the same on my e92 320i m sport and have the same parts you've shown will have to seek torque settings... But great good and great videos as always👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
did anyone else not have clerance issues trying to get waterpump to remove or fit? Please respond asap as I'm doing this on my back.
How I shown in this video was the easiest way👍🏻
can you tell me how or facetime me man ? i need my car tomorrow for work?@@GeorgeAusters
i have everything back together just cant get waterpump to fit
A lot harder with x-drive Models.. totally different approach. Nonetheless good job
Yeah everything is more difficult on X-drive cars.. I wouldn’t own one personally!
its 2012 X5
🙌🏼
Haibor👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👍👌👌👌👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hey mate, I would like to ask whether that Pierburg water pump is reliable and after how many kms it should be changed? Thanks
It’s the genuine one from factory
@@GeorgeAusters and which is better because there are two 7.02851.20.0 or .7.02851.20.8 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
The easy way huh??? There is no easy way.
This is the easy way
Dude, always bleed the system before starting your car and add some type of coolant mix to prevent boiling. Jesus, that was a little cring.
Lol its fine. I wasn't going to add coolant while I still had a leak
Coolant shower 🥶
How long did it take you
A good few hours