Dealership quoted me $3200... FCP Euro parts cost me around $450 with shipping. I have zero mechanical knowledge and following this video took me 6 hours to finish, but it’s fixed and runs perfect now. Thanks for the video!
That's the type of story we love to hear Anthony! Makes it all the more worth it when we know fellow enthusiasts are able to save a bunch of money and wrench on their own car. Nice work!
FCP Euro I have a 2008 528i that keeps overheating. I’ve changed the radiator, upper hose, coolant hose flange, electric water pump and thermostat and the overheating problem persists. I can’t seems to get the water pump to go into test mode so I’m thinking it’s some sort of communication problem with the ECU? I don’t know how else to test the water pump. Can you shed some light? Can I put a multimeter on the harness to test for resistance or something else? Help!!!
@@fcpeuro Hi Sir I just installed a new bigger radiator for my 630i 2008. The Temp. of the bottom hose is equal or even higher than the Temp. Of the upper hose!!! How do you explain that?!
At my local garage, they asked me 2300€, i decided to buy the material myself for around 350€. Took me the entire week-end. But it was totaly worth it. Thank you very much FCP Euro.
I'm doing the oil pan gasket, m-control arms, & a belt service while I do the water pump & tstat. Looks to me like it will be beneficial to remove the subframe entirely. Appreciate the video. It has been very clear & concise. 👍🏼
I just did this job using only this guide. Thanks very much, this covered everything. Only thing I would suggest is to mention that when you pull out the thermostat, there is still one hose attached at the top. I had to rewatch a couple times because I thought I missed something lol. I lost some coolant during the bleed procedure since I forgot to tighten one of the hose clamps. 😬 Other than that this was an easier job than I thought it would be. Thank you soooooo much!!!
Mine failed at the most inconvenient time. I knew I was on borrowed time. This video and 2 day FCP Euro shipping saved the day. PITA on the garage floor, but doable. My man here is not kidding about the rain poncho.
Great DIY demonstration Gareth, thank you. In the UK, my E90 318i 2.0 litre with N43 engine at 130k miles has a failing water pump, so am considering doing this myself when pump and thermostat arrive, although it will be on jack stands on my driveway. Update: attempted to do this but had real trouble accessing some of the connections so had the garage do it. £220 labour, I supplied genuine Pierburg pump and Behr thermostat.
Just finished installing the new water pump and thermostat with the kit I bought from the FCP Euro website. I have a 2011 BMW 335i with the N55 engine, and this served as a great guide line, which I had never done before on this car. As you mentioned, there are a few pieces of sub framing on my car that I had to work around which made it a bit tighter, but still doable. The sway bar didn't drop down nearly as far either because of the additional sub frame. Otherwise it was pretty much the same. Another thing to note, I initially could not activate the self bleed procedure on my car because putting the key in didn't activate accessory mode, and for the life of me I couldn't figure out why. Tried hooking up the battery charger and that didn't make any difference. Turns out you to press the start button only far enough to activate the mode and not start the engine. Great video!
Great content from a top end vendor. I use FCPEuro for as much as I can (read their warranty on parts). Wish I did this myself. I spent about $1K for this plus a couple other things. Its not hard but it appears time consuming and a little jigsaw puzzle like. Another thing that could (should) be done about the same time is the serpentine belt and tensioner set, you know, while you're in there.
From this tutorial I paid a total of $500 for a water pump and a service bay to change my water pump in 4 hours with no experience whatsoever. Thank you
Thanks for the Video! One of the toughest jobs i have done so far on my 2009 N54 powered E60 535xi! Was worth it to save the $$ but not easy on the E60 with xDrive!!
Awesome stuff! Very knowledgeable and appreciate the nuances that were mentioned at every step of the way. Very few videos actually go into details mentioning it as it is overlooked.
15:56 I just finished this job on my 2011 Z4 35i this weekend and oddly enough the original pump was solid and the new pump (from your kit) had the rubber mounts... Also worth noting is that this job is definitely more challenging on the N54 Z4 because the EPS motor is in the way and makes it very difficult to reach several of the fasteners and then also makes it more difficult to maneuver the thermostat and pump in and out of place. I would have killed for the kind of access shown in this video.
Ordered new pump, thermostat for my 335i. Just installed it and they work great. Service was quick and the quality of the parts was on point. Watched ur video and it helped tremendously. FPC euro is awesome.
17:28 I noticed that belly pan mounting bracket is in the way. It's simple to remove with an 8mm driver, and replace when finished. Makes for more room to maneuver the pump and thermostat...
So, I'm waiting for water pump and thermostat kit from FCP Euro to arrvive Monday. It seems BMW water pumps last about 50-60k miles. I had mine replaced around 60k miles, 100k, and now at 165k, it started leaking at the plastic housing. There's one thing BMW does really well, their time to failure interval is spot on!! LOL -:) The coolant reservoir replaced twice. YES, the plastic spit at the seam.
@@TheFrenchPug Yah dude, get it replaced before you get stranded somewhere. LOL Believe if or not, I've had no issues with my 335i since last year. LOL I've got 187k miles on it now. Other than the "usual" parts that fail, it's pretty reliable. My Lexus is sooo smooth, I have trouble staying awake driving at night. The beamer always exciting!
Just did 2012 335xi N55 engine - it was very challenging on that model because cavity is very small and also there is not really a way to get a socket on all the bolts. And the sway bar drop is blocked by the heater return line! A real jigsaw - take out pump bolts then pull out slightly, then undo thermo bolts to get room, then can loosen main hose to pump. On install, attach just pump (with hose to thermo installed only on pump) to main hose first, THEN get thermo in there and attach to WP hose etc.. I have a 2010 328i (184k original pump/thermo!) and that appears that will be a MUCH easier endeavor! I'll be doing that one this weekend.
@@lytleric Yes - when I did the 2010 328i I detached and moved the upper coolant overflow line (the skinny one that goes along top of radiator to overflow reservior) in toward back of engine to get it out of the way. BUT that caused it to crack the nipple where it goes into the upper engine-to-radiator hose! So I had to replace that radiator hose. Note that skinny reservoir line is crimp attached to the radiator hose nipple - I just used a wormgear clamp instead of a crimp. I think this was actually a good thing to happen cuz other spots in that upper radiator hose were about to fail! I did not replace any other hoses and they all seemed flexible and clean. But I would consider replacing that upper hose regardless and it was fairly cheap. BUT I had a little scare - where that radiator hose connects to the hard plastic insert on next hose toward the engine didn't seal right away. I had to run the engine while coolant was leaking slightly in hopes it would seal up, AND IT DID. Really should have replaced that other hose as well I guess, but it goes under and toward the back of the engine and would have been a huge ordeal.
@@czearfoss Successfully did this repair on my 2013 E92 N55 xDrive this weekend. Took me most of the weekend but I took my time, working on it a few hours at a time, but managed to get it done over two days. Used a lot of swear words during the process; that seemed to help. I was able to get the bolts holding the water pump without removing the sway bar or heater hoses. I did unbolt one of the power steering line mounts and used a 3-inch extension and a universal joint on the E12 socket and that gave me the clearance needed to get to the bolts. The biggest challenge, I felt, was getting all the hose clamps loosened. Seemed like none of them were oriented in a way that allowed a socket or screwdriver to readily reach them. This consumed a disproportionate amout of time, but eventually I was able to get to them all.
after 1 year ownership, i am wanting to sell it, gareth helped me do this job with this video but it is not a fun job. there is literally zero room working on these cars.
Reading through these comments i realize I must be extremely lucky. I got a thermostat code and was looking up that, but I'm thinking i better do the pump as well. I'm at 225,000 miles and haven't replaced either one. 2008 328i.
Thanks a lot for sharing. Definitely one of the less pleasant jobs on an E9x. Interestingly, assembly went smoother than disassembly. My car still had its original pump (08/05 235.000km), the torque value of the original aluminum bolts was a lot less than 8NM 90 degrees 🤷🏻♂️. Reason for that I don’t know.
BMW N54 with x-drive is a bit more of a challenge and suggest you remove the front passenger wheel, associated shroud along with the small heat shield to get access to the back side of the thermostat and water pump. All the other steps noted in this excellent video for removing the fan shroud, intercooler, etc. remain. I have included some additional tips below from my experience. The larger hose clamp on the thermostat which leads into the water pump can readily be accessed from the side once the items noted above are cleared away. The other large hose clamp can be loosened from the front, looking over top of the thermostat, once you have the front hoses disconnected and out of the way. This hose comes loose by twisting somewhat as you pull the thermostat out. The smaller hose can be removed after you pull the loosened thermostat forward as there is enough flex and length. This makes life much easier when removing and installing. When you are next removing the water pump, I found that you do need to unclip the larger cable connector or the larger hose clamp until you pull the pump out. You can get access from the side, but I found later when installing there is enough length and flex to do that once it is pulled forward. I hope this helps make your job with the x drive variant run a little less painfully
I'm looking forward to giving this is a go in the driveway. I have a 2011 328i e91 manual that I never want to get rid of. It's at 106k miles and these parts have never been replaced. Fingers crossed. I will have to use ramps and/or jack stands to get under the car. Was curious if anyone else has replaced these parts in a similar situation and can advise on best practices.
Not going to lie, this helped a lot while working on my f02. But the thermostat is located higher up and not next to the pump. You would think being a bigger body the engine bay would have more room and be easier to work on.
These are great videos! I was a little dissapointed with a couple things. Maybe mention a positive that the electric water pump cools the turbos and engine when shutting down during heat soak. Also you didn't wear a rain pancho. :)
thx - my 335i 2007 convertible just broke down yesterday evening while driving home at 11 pm. Got an indication that the enginge "overhaeted". It went from a yellow to a red flag on the tft display and the car limited the speed to approx. 20 mph. Brought it to the dealer and now waiting for their feedback. I assume it is the waterpump and the thermostate (car has 120'000 km). let's see
I just ordered bunch of coolent hoses for my 2011 335i N55. Can you make a video on how to install the hose that’s right under the oil filter housing. The one with the flange ! Awesome video !
There is also an aluminum replacement piece on eBay that has been developed by PDEngineeredProduct to get rid of the brittle plastic flange. Definitely recommend to do that versus another failure-prone plastic piece.
incredible crystal clear repair! Not easy but doable. Now have a question that hopefully gets noticed. I have an M235i with the diverter valve malfunction. If you have done this job it appears to be much easier to remove the charge pipe, seems easier to pull out from below. Not clear if intercooler removal is necessary? Moving the waterpump (without draining coolant) over to the space previously occupied by chargepipe allow access to diverter valve. It is very difficult to access the top water pump bolt. Any suggestions? I have the replacement bolts and the right sockets. Also the long ball end 5mm tool for removing failed diverter valve. Cannot find clear instructions anywhere...
@@fcpeuro yes, I cleared codes more then couple times. I ordered voltage regulator cause I have electric codes for water pump, generator and battery sensor and fuel pump. All this parts are new. And no one can help me with my problem
Good stuff the blue stuff expensive do it after upgrade most hoses but if you have coolant leaks distilled water is 1;99 dollar general use it as coolant along with a few coolant till you fully fix . That’s how I get by when my radiator was leaking slowly while parked but not on .
Awesome video ❤️.. also have a question replaced my waterpump, but when tried to do the bleeding procedure it did not work but waterpump did activate when started car now after 3 days it stopped working. Any suggestions??
We love the Z4! Usually we pick the cars we use for these videos as they are owned by one of our employees, and it is what we have available at the time. Gareth happens to have a mint Z4 convertible in his family, but the mileage is so low it doesn't need any major service yet.
Ok. I am on the downhill side of this job, and a few comments. I experienced significantly more difficulty disassembling the thermostat-WP assembly on my 2011 335is than you had during this video, though I watched this video multiple times before attempting the removal. Some of the difficulty was the result of placement/orientation of the hose clamp bolt heads, though I don't know if this was a factory install. Car had 40K on it when I purchased, and about 105K now. The other difficulty was simply knowing how to interpret what I was looking at. The rats nest of hoses in this location is really not excusable. I spent a career as a mechanical engineer, and while I realize that modern CAD tools allow engineers to package the various pieces of a car more 'efficiently' than in the past, the aspect of disassembly and reassembly is also one of the standard design requirements. BMW engineers did not meet those requirements here, IMO. While doing the job my expressions voicing this opinion were not nearly as tactful. Back to the vid, I would have like to have seen more time taken to show the assembly of the two prior to disassembly, noting in detail the locations and orientation of the various hoses and hose clamps/QD clips. So far the reassembly is proceeding with less drama, but my expectations are that things will get difficult again before I finish. Thinking I will not purchase another bimmer due to the experience. Probably forget that emotion once I am hammering it on the local roads...
Thank you for the notes Mr.Mitch. We are always working on improving our filming and working with smaller devices for better shots. Those clamps can certainly be a pain to deal with, especially when they are assembled on an assembly line and plopped into the cars at the factory!
Just ordered parts from you to do this. Going to replace most of the coolant hoses. Please tell me the heater return hose (to thermostat) is the least likely to fail because I’m skipping that one. What say you? Good idea/bad idea?
My fan has been coming on and of all the time when driving just started 2 happen but the car is not overheating . Would that be a failing water pump. 1M coupe
Should’ve watched this video before smh, I took it to a shop because my dad wanted to drive my E60 535xi while I was working away from home. They charged me $2,000 just for me to come back and drive it for 2 days and is now leaking coolant from behind the water pump from what I can see…they replaced the parts but why is it leaking now ? Will be looking at it between tomorrow and monday myself thanks to this video!
Video was awesome very technical and it took all the guess work out of the job nice n easy. The question though is where did that air intake with air cones set up come from...that is clean !!!!!
How crucial is opening the bleeder screw during this process or at all ? I watched another video where they opened the bleeder and filled til fluid came out steady stream then performed electric bleed.
Great video. Just FYI, you are using the torque wrench incorrectly. You are over tightening almost all of the bolts so the torque wrench is doing nothing.
I have a 2013 bmw 528i. There is a coolant problem error on the screen when I’m driving even though the coolant is filled up properly. Please let me know if I have to reset it or fix something. thanks
On N55 I have no codes but lately fan started to kick on. No overheating or other symptoms. I just ordered the kit from y’all but wondering if it could be something also?
if your cars oil temp takes a long time to get up to temp does that mean the water pump is going out as well ? i know the oil cooler line connects to the radiator as well, so im just wondering if these 2 things are connected in some way.
Hello, I am interested in a water pump for a bmw 335i N54 I still do not know if they send to Mexico ... I would also like to know what is the amount that they declare in customs since in Mexico they are very bad for this ... I hope you can help me
Just did this on an N55 335i Xdrive, some tips for anyone doing it. It's doable in your driveway, just set aside a day. The subframe makes things really claustrophobic, you can't reach under and the swaybar can't just hang down. Pop the sway bar off the frame, and the bolts for the coolant line support, and they will be in line with the frame and you can even stick a wrench with your extensions between them to get at the bolts for the pump and tstat. Get one of those pivoting universal joints, cv looking things, for whatever wrench drive your Etorx sockets are, and a 3 inch extension, and with that combo you can get at everything. Go one hose at a time. Unbolt the T stat and pivot it near the end, same with the pump you can't even see the electrical connector when it's bolted in. When it's time for the new parts, install the pump first with the U hose clamped firmly on, and the electrical connector, bolt it on. Trust me on this one, if you're working on jack stands. Get the wheel well cover out of the way, lay down, and stick your whole left arm and shoulder into the wheel well, and internally rotate your shoulder to sneak your hand past the sway bar link. You can grasp the U hose and then reach around to easily wiggle on the thermostat. I'm not a petite guy, should work for most of ya if you can't manage sliding in both parts at once and somehow bolting it up. Then same as before, one hose at a time. Take off and inspect the coolant hose fitting that bolts to the block below the oil filter housing, if you were running hot it's probably fucked, there's a metal replacement on amazon. Finally, remember to have fun.
Just got a VDO water pump from you guys and it looks like the old style pump with the rubber mounts instead of solid. Did BMW switch back to this design or is this just a trait of going with VDO?
my 2007 335i...Just got an overheating light on my dash. less than 5k miles ago I had a service engine soon light with code p0128 saying my thermostat wasnt working properly. Replaced it and engine light went away and everything was solid. New coolant, no leaks whatsoever (left splash guard off and checked every day to make sure no leaks). After I did the thermostat and coolant I did the flush thing to burp all the air out, took like 10 mins but again everything was kosher. No idea why its overheating now, with no service engine light, only the over heating light. Any ideas?
If you have not already, you may want to consider checking/clearing codes from the vehicle. Even if the light is not present, the code may still be pending and messing with the car. Another thing to keep in mind, it is good practice to replace the pump and thermostat together; usually, when one fails, the other is right behind.
My Grundfoss water circulators (it's an electric water pump) in my German Buderus boiler have been running for the 15 years without fail, quiet as sin. Why can't BMW make an electric pump that will do the same? ....... c'mon guys just kidding! I know these BMW pumps live in a severe environment, so, 60k may not be too bad at the end of the day. Good job on the tutorial, I like the explanation on the type of bolts for the pump.
I drove over a bumpy part of the road and I have a 335is it just said engine temp high flashed red nothing else happened. It blew hot air through the heater core. Had nothing else after that. Checked level it’s fine.
Hi , i need a quick help ! the self bleeding automatic system keep running each time openening or closing the doors , i think this is too much and is draining the battery , is there a way to deactivate it ? please anyone has an idea let me know , highly appreciated guys.
Doesn't work with e93 335i. I got the undertray off to be met with a V shaped bar that I'm not sure I can take off safely. Does anyone know if I take it off will I get it back on or does it contain the risk that it will not be easy to put back on? ie. Will the chassis flex?
Dealership quoted me $3200... FCP Euro parts cost me around $450 with shipping. I have zero mechanical knowledge and following this video took me 6 hours to finish, but it’s fixed and runs perfect now. Thanks for the video!
That's the type of story we love to hear Anthony! Makes it all the more worth it when we know fellow enthusiasts are able to save a bunch of money and wrench on their own car. Nice work!
FCP Euro I have a 2008 528i that keeps overheating. I’ve changed the radiator, upper hose, coolant hose flange, electric water pump and thermostat and the overheating problem persists. I can’t seems to get the water pump to go into test mode so I’m thinking it’s some sort of communication problem with the ECU? I don’t know how else to test the water pump. Can you shed some light? Can I put a multimeter on the harness to test for resistance or something else? Help!!!
@@fcpeuro what is the part number for the funnel
@@fcpeuro
Hi Sir
I just installed a new bigger radiator for my 630i 2008.
The Temp. of the bottom hose is equal or even higher than the Temp. Of the upper hose!!!
How do you explain that?!
@@fcpeuro i hope u guys make a videos more on F15's like water pump and oil pan gasket replacement
FCP is smart . The more videos they make demystifying these BMWs literally translates to more sales.
They are a great company been buying off them for years
Fcp euro is the only reason I'm considering a BMW.
At my local garage, they asked me 2300€, i decided to buy the material myself for around 350€. Took me the entire week-end. But it was totaly worth it. Thank you very much FCP Euro.
You are very welcome! Happy to help you save money!
❤❤❤❤❤❤
I'm doing the oil pan gasket, m-control arms, & a belt service while I do the water pump & tstat.
Looks to me like it will be beneficial to remove the subframe entirely.
Appreciate the video. It has been very clear & concise. 👍🏼
I just did this job using only this guide. Thanks very much, this covered everything.
Only thing I would suggest is to mention that when you pull out the thermostat, there is still one hose attached at the top. I had to rewatch a couple times because I thought I missed something lol.
I lost some coolant during the bleed procedure since I forgot to tighten one of the hose clamps. 😬 Other than that this was an easier job than I thought it would be.
Thank you soooooo much!!!
Stoked we were able to help you tackle this job at home Hugh Russell! That's exactly why we enjoy making these DIY's .
Mine failed at the most inconvenient time. I knew I was on borrowed time. This video and 2 day FCP Euro shipping saved the day. PITA on the garage floor, but doable. My man here is not kidding about the rain poncho.
Happy to help, Moosecat!
Happened at 47k miles for us on our 2007 335i. This video saved us a ton of money!
Great DIY demonstration Gareth, thank you. In the UK, my E90 318i 2.0 litre with N43 engine at 130k miles has a failing water pump, so am considering doing this myself when pump and thermostat arrive, although it will be on jack stands on my driveway.
Update: attempted to do this but had real trouble accessing some of the connections so had the garage do it. £220 labour, I supplied genuine Pierburg pump and Behr thermostat.
Just finished installing the new water pump and thermostat with the kit I bought from the FCP Euro website. I have a 2011 BMW 335i with the N55 engine, and this served as a great guide line, which I had never done before on this car. As you mentioned, there are a few pieces of sub framing on my car that I had to work around which made it a bit tighter, but still doable. The sway bar didn't drop down nearly as far either because of the additional sub frame. Otherwise it was pretty much the same. Another thing to note, I initially could not activate the self bleed procedure on my car because putting the key in didn't activate accessory mode, and for the life of me I couldn't figure out why. Tried hooking up the battery charger and that didn't make any difference. Turns out you to press the start button only far enough to activate the mode and not start the engine. Great video!
Thanks for your support, Peter! Glad you found the video helpful!
Pml
FCP is goated you guys have helped me with so much on my 335
Great content from a top end vendor. I use FCPEuro for as much as I can (read their warranty on parts). Wish I did this myself. I spent about $1K for this plus a couple other things. Its not hard but it appears time consuming and a little jigsaw puzzle like. Another thing that could (should) be done about the same time is the serpentine belt and tensioner set, you know, while you're in there.
Thanks, Steve!
From this tutorial I paid a total of $500 for a water pump and a service bay to change my water pump in 4 hours with no experience whatsoever. Thank you
That is what we like to hear!!! Excellent work.
I wish this vid was published in 2018 before i get rid of my 335is ... i had exactly the same issue u showed in the beginning :)) thanks anyways
Thanks for the Video! One of the toughest jobs i have done so far on my 2009 N54 powered E60 535xi! Was worth it to save the $$ but not easy on the E60 with xDrive!!
Not an easy job for sure. Glad to hear you got it done, Gary!
Wait til the turbos go... 😊 hopefully not anytime soon though.
Thank you fcp euro saved me tons of money on my n54 highly recommend anyone who needs bmw parts very fast and great customer service.
Awesome stuff! Very knowledgeable and appreciate the nuances that were mentioned at every step of the way. Very few videos actually go into details mentioning it as it is overlooked.
15:56 I just finished this job on my 2011 Z4 35i this weekend and oddly enough the original pump was solid and the new pump (from your kit) had the rubber mounts...
Also worth noting is that this job is definitely more challenging on the N54 Z4 because the EPS motor is in the way and makes it very difficult to reach several of the fasteners and then also makes it more difficult to maneuver the thermostat and pump in and out of place. I would have killed for the kind of access shown in this video.
56k on the nipple today and me water pump shit itself. Caught the malfunction early so will do the service Friday. TY FCP for such a great video.
Glad we can help!
Just bought the kit today. Appreciate the assistance greatly.
Ordered new pump, thermostat for my 335i. Just installed it and they work great. Service was quick and the quality of the parts was on point. Watched ur video and it helped tremendously. FPC euro is awesome.
Thats what we love to hear Matt, happy to help and provide what you needed to get the job done!
17:28 I noticed that belly pan mounting bracket is in the way. It's simple to remove with an 8mm driver, and replace when finished. Makes for more room to maneuver the pump and thermostat...
Good point, Scott! It's always good to remove things that are simple to give yourself more room.
So, I'm waiting for water pump and thermostat kit from FCP Euro to arrvive Monday.
It seems BMW water pumps last about 50-60k miles. I had mine replaced around 60k miles, 100k, and now at 165k, it started leaking at the plastic housing.
There's one thing BMW does really well, their time to failure interval is spot on!! LOL -:) The coolant reservoir replaced twice. YES, the plastic spit at the seam.
Same here. Except I'm still on the second water pump at 148k miles. I'm just waiting now.
@@TheFrenchPug Yah dude, get it replaced before you get stranded somewhere. LOL Believe if or not, I've had no issues with my 335i since last year. LOL I've got 187k miles on it now. Other than the "usual" parts that fail, it's pretty reliable. My Lexus is sooo smooth, I have trouble staying awake driving at night. The beamer always exciting!
@@BryanChance I know. I should have bought a Lexus when I bought my stupid BMW. Just replaced the turbos. What a nightmare. Lol
Providing torque requirements for each fastener set is appreciated.
👍
Just did 2012 335xi N55 engine - it was very challenging on that model because cavity is very small and also there is not really a way to get a socket on all the bolts. And the sway bar drop is blocked by the heater return line! A real jigsaw - take out pump bolts then pull out slightly, then undo thermo bolts to get room, then can loosen main hose to pump. On install, attach just pump (with hose to thermo installed only on pump) to main hose first, THEN get thermo in there and attach to WP hose etc.. I have a 2010 328i (184k original pump/thermo!) and that appears that will be a MUCH easier endeavor! I'll be doing that one this weekend.
You got this Charles, we will be rooting for you over here in!
Thanks for these tips -- about to replace mine this weekend on a 2013 E92 335xi N55. Not looking forward to it. Open to any other tips!
@@lytleric Yes - when I did the 2010 328i I detached and moved the upper coolant overflow line (the skinny one that goes along top of radiator to overflow reservior) in toward back of engine to get it out of the way. BUT that caused it to crack the nipple where it goes into the upper engine-to-radiator hose! So I had to replace that radiator hose. Note that skinny reservoir line is crimp attached to the radiator hose nipple - I just used a wormgear clamp instead of a crimp. I think this was actually a good thing to happen cuz other spots in that upper radiator hose were about to fail! I did not replace any other hoses and they all seemed flexible and clean. But I would consider replacing that upper hose regardless and it was fairly cheap. BUT I had a little scare - where that radiator hose connects to the hard plastic insert on next hose toward the engine didn't seal right away. I had to run the engine while coolant was leaking slightly in hopes it would seal up, AND IT DID. Really should have replaced that other hose as well I guess, but it goes under and toward the back of the engine and would have been a huge ordeal.
@@czearfoss Successfully did this repair on my 2013 E92 N55 xDrive this weekend. Took me most of the weekend but I took my time, working on it a few hours at a time, but managed to get it done over two days. Used a lot of swear words during the process; that seemed to help. I was able to get the bolts holding the water pump without removing the sway bar or heater hoses. I did unbolt one of the power steering line mounts and used a 3-inch extension and a universal joint on the E12 socket and that gave me the clearance needed to get to the bolts. The biggest challenge, I felt, was getting all the hose clamps loosened. Seemed like none of them were oriented in a way that allowed a socket or screwdriver to readily reach them. This consumed a disproportionate amout of time, but eventually I was able to get to them all.
@@lytleric congrats! - yes the hose clamp orientation was f'ed, I'm sure optimized for factory assembly
showing a lot of personality here. I like it.
This dude you convinced me of buying the care couple of days away from owning a 2012 IS 60k 2 owners
after 1 year ownership, i am wanting to sell it, gareth helped me do this job with this video but it is not a fun job. there is literally zero room working on these cars.
Atleast you took a crack at it and got it done GSL INC!
Glad to know I don’t have to pull the subframe again for this , should’ve just done it with the upgraded twins 😂 great video.
Reading through these comments i realize I must be extremely lucky. I got a thermostat code and was looking up that, but I'm thinking i better do the pump as well. I'm at 225,000 miles and haven't replaced either one. 2008 328i.
My 328i waterpump lasted 200k miles to its a n51 2008 a lot eaiser to change then my 335is
I love your DIYs Gareth - they've been exceedingly helpful!
You are great RUclipsr mechanically talking mean that every body watch this video understand you perfectly
Thank you, Vuela! Happy to hear that!
Thank you so much for this! My thermostat is acting up since it got cold. Might as well do the water pump while I'm in there!
Always best to knock both out at the same time ThE PrEdAtOr!
Alright! Finally got around to doing this! It took me 6 hours
Something im going to eventually do, so very helpful. Great video like always!
Sad reality J LongShort, but we are here for you when the times comes ! 😂
Xdrive is pure joy!! This job is doable but a pita you can’t see anything.
Just used this guide ! Worked pretty well.
Good video, shall be scheduling this for the summer.
Thanks a lot for sharing.
Definitely one of the less pleasant jobs on an E9x.
Interestingly, assembly went smoother than disassembly.
My car still had its original pump (08/05 235.000km), the torque value of the original aluminum bolts was a lot less than 8NM 90 degrees 🤷🏻♂️.
Reason for that I don’t know.
BMW N54 with x-drive is a bit more of a challenge and suggest you remove the front passenger wheel, associated shroud along with the small heat shield to get access to the back side of the thermostat and water pump. All the other steps noted in this excellent video for removing the fan shroud, intercooler, etc. remain. I have included some additional tips below from my experience.
The larger hose clamp on the thermostat which leads into the water pump can readily be accessed from the side once the items noted above are cleared away. The other large hose clamp can be loosened from the front, looking over top of the thermostat, once you have the front hoses disconnected and out of the way. This hose comes loose by twisting somewhat as you pull the thermostat out. The smaller hose can be removed after you pull the loosened thermostat forward as there is enough flex and length. This makes life much easier when removing and installing.
When you are next removing the water pump, I found that you do need to unclip the larger cable connector or the larger hose clamp until you pull the pump out. You can get access from the side, but I found later when installing there is enough length and flex to do that once it is pulled forward.
I hope this helps make your job with the x drive variant run a little less painfully
Dude on 5.58 apparently didn't know you was filming something in a shop, lol
Hopefully by the time my G20 is off warranty FCP Euro comes out with these type of videos for it.
we'll keep an eye out!
I'm looking forward to giving this is a go in the driveway. I have a 2011 328i e91 manual that I never want to get rid of. It's at 106k miles and these parts have never been replaced. Fingers crossed. I will have to use ramps and/or jack stands to get under the car. Was curious if anyone else has replaced these parts in a similar situation and can advise on best practices.
Great guide, would like more closeups of the work. No pressure test on all of these new connections?
Great video! I have this job ahead of me….so thank you!!!
thank you for the videos the help in the installing of purchased parts from you guys
Not going to lie, this helped a lot while working on my f02. But the thermostat is located higher up and not next to the pump.
You would think being a bigger body the engine bay would have more room and be easier to work on.
These are great videos! I was a little dissapointed with a couple things. Maybe mention a positive that the electric water pump cools the turbos and engine when shutting down during heat soak. Also you didn't wear a rain pancho. :)
Think I’m going to try this myself lawd be with me 😅
thx - my 335i 2007 convertible just broke down yesterday evening while driving home at 11 pm. Got an indication that the enginge "overhaeted". It went from a yellow to a red flag on the tft display and the car limited the speed to approx. 20 mph. Brought it to the dealer and now waiting for their feedback. I assume it is the waterpump and the thermostate (car has 120'000 km). let's see
I just ordered bunch of coolent hoses for my 2011 335i N55. Can you make a video on how to install the hose that’s right under the oil filter housing. The one with the flange !
Awesome video !
There is also an aluminum replacement piece on eBay that has been developed by PDEngineeredProduct to get rid of the brittle plastic flange. Definitely recommend to do that versus another failure-prone plastic piece.
incredible crystal clear repair! Not easy but doable. Now have a question that hopefully gets noticed. I have an M235i with the diverter valve malfunction. If you have done this job it appears to be much easier to remove the charge pipe, seems easier to pull out from below. Not clear if intercooler removal is necessary? Moving the waterpump (without draining coolant) over to the space previously occupied by chargepipe allow access to diverter valve. It is very difficult to access the top water pump bolt. Any suggestions? I have the replacement bolts and the right sockets. Also the long ball end 5mm tool for removing failed diverter valve. Cannot find clear instructions anywhere...
Always learning , Gareth really helpful. Thanks guys
Thank you for your video, change like you told and still have my water pump codes... love my BMW
May go without saying, but you want to make sure you clear the codes if you haven't already!
@@fcpeuro yes, I cleared codes more then couple times. I ordered voltage regulator cause I have electric codes for water pump, generator and battery sensor and fuel pump. All this parts are new. And no one can help me with my problem
Good stuff the blue stuff expensive do it after upgrade most hoses but if you have coolant leaks distilled water is 1;99 dollar general use it as coolant along with a few coolant till you fully fix . That’s how I get by when my radiator was leaking slowly while parked but not on .
Awesome video ❤️.. also have a question replaced my waterpump, but when tried to do the bleeding procedure it did not work but waterpump did activate when started car now after 3 days it stopped working. Any suggestions??
It's always a friggin 335i FCP Euro should recognize many of us Z4 Owners have N54 engines.
We love the Z4! Usually we pick the cars we use for these videos as they are owned by one of our employees, and it is what we have available at the time. Gareth happens to have a mint Z4 convertible in his family, but the mileage is so low it doesn't need any major service yet.
@@fcpeuro You guys could service my 2010 Z4 LOL
Ok. I am on the downhill side of this job, and a few comments. I experienced significantly more difficulty disassembling the thermostat-WP assembly on my 2011 335is than you had during this video, though I watched this video multiple times before attempting the removal. Some of the difficulty was the result of placement/orientation of the hose clamp bolt heads, though I don't know if this was a factory install. Car had 40K on it when I purchased, and about 105K now. The other difficulty was simply knowing how to interpret what I was looking at. The rats nest of hoses in this location is really not excusable. I spent a career as a mechanical engineer, and while I realize that modern CAD tools allow engineers to package the various pieces of a car more 'efficiently' than in the past, the aspect of disassembly and reassembly is also one of the standard design requirements. BMW engineers did not meet those requirements here, IMO. While doing the job my expressions voicing this opinion were not nearly as tactful.
Back to the vid, I would have like to have seen more time taken to show the assembly of the two prior to disassembly, noting in detail the locations and orientation of the various hoses and hose clamps/QD clips. So far the reassembly is proceeding with less drama, but my expectations are that things will get difficult again before I finish. Thinking I will not purchase another bimmer due to the experience. Probably forget that emotion once I am hammering it on the local roads...
Thank you for the notes Mr.Mitch. We are always working on improving our filming and working with smaller devices for better shots.
Those clamps can certainly be a pain to deal with, especially when they are assembled on an assembly line and plopped into the cars at the factory!
Awesome and informative videos guys. Hope we see more e9x and N54 videos.
they're always in the queue!
So, I did this on my 09 E90 328 without removing the fan... That probably would have made the job so much easier.....
love these n54 vids
We're glad you love our N54 videos. More to come!
Got 5 of th3se cars near had to do waterpump till today first come code ever came up bleed a few times nothing from pump
Just ordered parts from you to do this. Going to replace most of the coolant hoses. Please tell me the heater return hose (to thermostat) is the least likely to fail because I’m skipping that one. What say you? Good idea/bad idea?
My fan has been coming on and of all the time when driving just started 2 happen but the car is not overheating .
Would that be a failing water pump.
1M coupe
my BMW 7 series reading high temperature coolant problem i need help from you guys.
Dude , you are a badass . Awesome video!
thanks BIGSALAMI glad you liked this DIY!
Great video. Maybe want to wear eye protection when under car. Stay safe.
My car has 47k miles, just turned it to stage 2 from stock… I guess I need to change it asap to prevent future brake downs
I did this last summer with a lot less steps. No wonder it took so long and had me furious lol
Yes. He takes a lot more steps doing this. I got nine done in a couple hours.
hey guys what about the 2EF7 code? , car is a e92 328i with the n52k engine, check light comes on , cars not overheating
our n55 e92 just had its water pump fail. Electric fan running at full speed and getting limp mode. This really helped out!
Glad you found it useful Dee!
Should’ve watched this video before smh, I took it to a shop because my dad wanted to drive my E60 535xi while I was working away from home. They charged me $2,000 just for me to come back and drive it for 2 days and is now leaking coolant from behind the water pump from what I can see…they replaced the parts but why is it leaking now ? Will be looking at it between tomorrow and monday myself thanks to this video!
Best of luck!
@@fcpeuro So I found out it’s the turbo coolant lines, coolant was dripping down onto the water pump
Video was awesome very technical and it took all the guess work out of the job nice n easy. The question though is where did that air intake with air cones set up come from...that is clean !!!!!
Great video, good job 👍
How crucial is opening the bleeder screw during this process or at all ? I watched another video where they opened the bleeder and filled til fluid came out steady stream then performed electric bleed.
Great video. Just FYI, you are using the torque wrench incorrectly. You are over tightening almost all of the bolts so the torque wrench is doing nothing.
I have a 2013 bmw 528i. There is a coolant problem error on the screen when I’m driving even though the coolant is filled up properly. Please let me know if I have to reset it or fix something. thanks
On N55 I have no codes but lately fan started to kick on. No overheating or other symptoms. I just ordered the kit from y’all but wondering if it could be something also?
what's does includes? water pump, thermostat, screws, coolant? does it include the hoses and clamps?
The kit does not include the hoses and clamps. Those must be purchased separately
Awesome video!! Thanks
This guy is awesome
Great pro video, this going to be similatr to 2010 535i xdrive e60? Thanks
if your cars oil temp takes a long time to get up to temp does that mean the water pump is going out as well ? i know the oil cooler line connects to the radiator as well, so im just wondering if these 2 things are connected in some way.
Hello, I am interested in a water pump for a bmw 335i N54 I still do not know if they send to Mexico ... I would also like to know what is the amount that they declare in customs since in Mexico they are very bad for this ...
I hope you can help me
Just did this on an N55 335i Xdrive, some tips for anyone doing it. It's doable in your driveway, just set aside a day. The subframe makes things really claustrophobic, you can't reach under and the swaybar can't just hang down. Pop the sway bar off the frame, and the bolts for the coolant line support, and they will be in line with the frame and you can even stick a wrench with your extensions between them to get at the bolts for the pump and tstat. Get one of those pivoting universal joints, cv looking things, for whatever wrench drive your Etorx sockets are, and a 3 inch extension, and with that combo you can get at everything. Go one hose at a time. Unbolt the T stat and pivot it near the end, same with the pump you can't even see the electrical connector when it's bolted in. When it's time for the new parts, install the pump first with the U hose clamped firmly on, and the electrical connector, bolt it on. Trust me on this one, if you're working on jack stands. Get the wheel well cover out of the way, lay down, and stick your whole left arm and shoulder into the wheel well, and internally rotate your shoulder to sneak your hand past the sway bar link. You can grasp the U hose and then reach around to easily wiggle on the thermostat. I'm not a petite guy, should work for most of ya if you can't manage sliding in both parts at once and somehow bolting it up. Then same as before, one hose at a time. Take off and inspect the coolant hose fitting that bolts to the block below the oil filter housing, if you were running hot it's probably fucked, there's a metal replacement on amazon. Finally, remember to have fun.
Is it necessary to remove the cooling fan or can I skip that step?
Need to remove the fan to access from the side it's on. It's not that bad to take out.
I’m getting a 2e83 code the pump is almost new what is that ?
Just got a VDO water pump from you guys and it looks like the old style pump with the rubber mounts instead of solid. Did BMW switch back to this design or is this just a trait of going with VDO?
I thought you had to drop the subframe to do this job. Are the N54 and N52 any different?
Xi awd
N52 is easier . And no you don’t have t
Thanks again for sharing this video
my 2007 335i...Just got an overheating light on my dash. less than 5k miles ago I had a service engine soon light with code p0128 saying my thermostat wasnt working properly. Replaced it and engine light went away and everything was solid. New coolant, no leaks whatsoever (left splash guard off and checked every day to make sure no leaks). After I did the thermostat and coolant I did the flush thing to burp all the air out, took like 10 mins but again everything was kosher. No idea why its overheating now, with no service engine light, only the over heating light. Any ideas?
If you have not already, you may want to consider checking/clearing codes from the vehicle. Even if the light is not present, the code may still be pending and messing with the car. Another thing to keep in mind, it is good practice to replace the pump and thermostat together; usually, when one fails, the other is right behind.
My Grundfoss water circulators (it's an electric water pump) in my German Buderus boiler have been running for the 15 years without fail, quiet as sin. Why can't BMW make an electric pump that will do the same? ....... c'mon guys just kidding! I know these BMW pumps live in a severe environment, so, 60k may not be too bad at the end of the day. Good job on the tutorial, I like the explanation on the type of bolts for the pump.
I drove over a bumpy part of the road and I have a 335is it just said engine temp high flashed red nothing else happened. It blew hot air through the heater core. Had nothing else after that. Checked level it’s fine.
Thank you. 👍
so im guessing it isnt the same with an xdrive model
Is this step by step also for 2011 bmw 135i?
Amazing video thank you
Would a faulty pump also make the heat not blow hot on the highway but in city driving it get semi warm?
That would probably be a faulty thermostat stuck in the "open" position.
Great how to....will this be the same procedure on 2010 535i xdrive? Thanks!
Never mind you kind of answered it in the video later on. Just seems like a much more royal pain in the ass with the xDrive
Hi , i need a quick help ! the self bleeding automatic system keep running each time openening or closing the doors , i think this is too much and is draining the battery , is there a way to deactivate it ? please anyone has an idea let me know , highly appreciated guys.
Doesn't work with e93 335i. I got the undertray off to be met with a V shaped bar that I'm not sure I can take off safely. Does anyone know if I take it off will I get it back on or does it contain the risk that it will not be easy to put back on? ie. Will the chassis flex?
Is the radiator fan removal optional? I've checked out some other tutorials and none of them remove the fan.
It's opens up a lot of room without the radiator fan. I didn't even fully remove mine. I just slid it up until it was barely put of the way.