We use our QJ5000SLX often on a variety of vehicles and if you use the included rubber blocks w/the grooves going the same way as the seams, it usually works really well. For those times they're not deep enough, cutting a slot in a set of 4 hockey pucks works really well, in our experience. This thing has been such an improvement in our family fleet maintenance for VWs, Mercurys, BMWs, and Toyotas that I can't imagine doing without nowadays. Makes sealed transmission work, suspension refits, and brake work a dream and I don't have to worry about chocking wheels anymore!
If your engine is installed in the front you have the wrong position of the quickjack. You have to turn it 180 degree that the car is not tipping during lift up.
@@fattysgarage1754 but I have to correct my answer. Not every car is possible to like quickjack discribed. My old chevette has the engine in front but I have to turn the quickjack against the normal position because the lifting points at the front are to close to the front wheels. The good thing it's a less weight of the car so it doesn't slip over or tilt.
Use pinch-weld adapter on all four corners. Attach small footprint blocks to the bottom of the adapters to provide the clearance you need for the skirt in the front. You'll probably need to add magnets to the pinch-weld adapters to support the extra weight of the blocks.
I have the BL 5000 SLX and I bought the frame Extension to work with my Cadillac CTS and it works, but I cut 4 2×8's to roll on to give me the height to push the lift under it the larger blocks and it works!
@@coolwrld302, The Frames was too high for Mines as well but I just drove on those 2×8's and the car was high enough to put the lift under it with the tall blocks!
@@moe3575lou That's my concern with the Hellcat and shy I haven't bought the extensions yet. Have been considering just buying the rails of the longer versions and selling the current ones.
Thanks for all the detail ; personally, I think when ever you are speaking about a car lift you should not use the word "failure" in your title. Even if you are speaking of only the "enhancements", its very easy for a viewer to initially see the word failure and think the worst. I think you should edit that Out of your title.
I have a 7000, and love it. But, it must be parallel to the car, or you get uneven lifts, front and back positioning is less of an issue but still important. If you are not parallel, and at least close front to back, you WILL have problems. That being said, I still love my Quickjack.
Don't get me wrong I like the Quickjack as well just tired of having to hit the rubber blocks with the pinch weld adapters or using the rubber blocks directly on the pinch weld and then flexing the side skirts of the car. I have another set of different pinch weld adapters I got recently that I'm hoping to try tomorrow and make a follow-up video if I'm successful .
The SLX model has a max distance between jacking points of 60”, so you are struggling to get enough spread for your Hellcat. QuickJack do sell an extender bar that sits on top of the framework to reach 66”, although it is relatively expensive. For safety, you really need to be able to lift at the vehicle’s recommended lift points only, any shorter and you could have an unstable car. Also you’ll cause damage to the under-carriage pinch welding. An economic option is to find a steel- welder who could fabricate a steel extender to sit on and in the QuickJack frame top. Good luck, but remember safety is paramount, you don’t want to be working under the car and it falls on top of you.
The problem with the Quick Jack specifications regarding "max reach" is that the jack wont actually reach that max. Example: My wife's car has jack points at 66 inches apart, so I bought the 7000EXT with a "66 inch reach." Problem is that that would only work if I could lift the car with a couple credit cards on edge at the end of each side of the Quick Jack. To TRUELY reach and properly lift 66 inch lift points, the Quick Jack would need to be at least 2 inches longer on both ends so that I can fit a block in the center of the lift point, not just on the ragged edge of the lift point. This is why so many people (like me) wind up with a Quick Jack that is too short and we end up having to buy the new extensions. Quick Jack should know by now, that the reach they advertise wont actually work. The block needs to be centered at the lift point, not on the inside edges.
Agreed. In my case the problem is compounded because the car is so low. If I bought the extensions I don't know that the added height would allow the QJ to start into its range of motion before contacting the car. They say in their instructions it is important that the jack and move a little prior to needing to lift. After already dropping the cost of the original QJ I'm not sure I want to drop even more money to find out that doesn't improve the situation. At this point if I'm just swapping my rear drag radials on to the car I just use a regular floor jack and do one side at a time.
@@coolwrld302 great point. With the extensions I will only have an 8th inch before the jack touches the lift points. On the plus side, although quick jack mentions no dead lifting, in real use, the first inch that it lifts the car most of the weight is still on the wheels so it will "dead lift" to a degree because it's not taking a heavy load for the first bit so not really dead lifting by their definition. If you just placed 5000lbs directly on the jack on the other hand, it would fail to lift. I guess in your case you could buy or make extensions and just drive the car onto 2X6's, then use the "quick" jack but yeah, a PIA when the whole point of the quick jack is to be quick.
Hadn't really thought about it like that related to the first inch or so the majority of the weight is still on the wheels/suspension very good point. My other concern and I would have to look at their site again is whether or not even with the extension it would still hit the front and back lift points on the Hellcat. I know from the perspective of where the side skirt notches on the pinch weld are it would probably work. But to hit the hockey puck in the back from the front sub frame location I'm not certain.
@@coolwrld302 yeah man I'm right there with you. I basically cut a 2x4 chunk small enough that although it was touching the seam weld OFF of the jack point, it didn't crush like the rubber pads so that the side skirt didn't have to bend in agony. I did that to the rear end since it's lighter than the front. I used my seam weld adaptors for the front since I had the jack forward enough to PROPERLY reach at least the front points (unlike the rear). Total PIA and it's still a MacGyver operation compared to how it would have been if Quickjack's 66 inch lift point spread really DID reach a 66 inch spread.
I have ended up damaging the pinch weld on my car. Since I haven't been using the QJ recently I still use those red adapters when I use the regular floor jack. The just fit in to the jack cradle. However, I think one of the wheels on the jack is very tight so you know how when you are jacking up a car the jack will usually roll in a little to keep the cradle flat as the arm goes up while in my case I don't think it is and that adapter got torqued in the cradle and as a result it bent the pinch weld. Now trying to figure out if I can even use the QJ anymore since with it I only lift along the pinch weld but with the floor jack I can use the hockey puck or the front sub frame.
You're welcome. If you do decide on the Quick Jack I would personally say go for the extended version especially with a 392. With the short version I have been able to lift the car reliably along the pinch weld but I had to make my own notch on the side skirt near the rear to use the ZL1 Addon pinch weld adapters because the short version of the Quick Jack was not long enough to hit the existing notches in the front and back. I measured the distance and I think between the notches and I think the extended version might reach. I also am not quite sure if the extended version would reach between the front sub frame and rear hockey puck lift points.
I’ll definitely keep that in mind I’ve been looking at all different ones online for the past couple weeks.I have a Commercial Account O’reillys but I think you’re a little overpriced 🤔I think online I can find a better one.I might have to go a little higher than that particular model that you have but that is very nice to be able to lift your car the way you have it.When I buy mine I will do a video currently have too many projects going on at one time this month😊 Got a put a transmission into my big ram just rebuilt it
@@hellcatredeye-g6582 Got ours from CostCo and if your time is worth anything, having a QJ that just lifts everything at once, level, and fits in the back of a pickup w/a generator is absolute freedom.
I have the TL and I'd say it's ok, but only if you're lucky and get one without a defective air cylinder. If you do get one of those you're screwed - the company will 100% not stand behind their product. They'll claim the air-assist down isn't "necessary to the function of the lift". Really? So if one side has air assist down and the other doesn't, and they drop unevenly, that's safe? And then when the vehicle drops to the ground and one side of the lift goes straight to the full down position while the other... doesn't. You need to wait... and wait... and wait for it to drop with no weight on it. Quickjack will claim this "is normal operation" and that "it will get better over time". If you invest a massive amount of time trying to get them to stand behind their product they will, eventually, after burning through every once of customer goodwill, send out a new cylinder. Yay! Until you get the replacement and the freakin' air side is literally capped off. Like intentionally made unusable. That's not a fix guys. Then they'll claim that the engineers decided the down-assist wasn't necessary and that they've changed the design on future models. But I didn't buy a future model with less functionality. I bought the current model with exactly the functionality I wanted, was promised, and paid for. Whatever. Too much time wasted on it already - I've written off the entire company as another skanky marketing hack with no integrity. I still have it in my shop, but the company worked very hard to make me regret my purchase and it low-key pisses me off every time I look at it. And honestly the setup is inconvenient enough that even when I do pull it out - warts and all - it happens very rarely. Only when I have a longer term project where I know the vehicle will be on the lift for a week or two. Definitely not for things like oil or tire changes. It's just way quicker to use a floor jack, or even ramps.
You can also position the jacks perpendicular to the car and lift that way. You just won’t have access to exhaust (or whatever else might not be accessible) if that’s what you might need to work on.
Interesting suggestions. Have you done that specifically with a Hellcat? Just curious if it hits anything else in that configuration since the car sits low.
I haven done it/seen it with the Hellcat but I've seen people lift their cars perpendicular if they are using the 5000-SLX version with a short wheelbase car like a Mini Cooper or Fiat Abarth. There are some vids on youtube of people lifting it that way. I would take a quick look underneath to see if there's anything, like exhaust pipes, or hangers, sitting lower than the pinch welds. If not then you should be good.
If the pinch weld is accessible for the length of the wood blocks, even with a 4500 lb Hellcat, the wood blocks alone will provide plenty of support... 4500 lb evenly divided would be 1125 lb on each block, and if each corner's weight was distributed along 12 inches of pinch weld and wood block, that would be less than 100 lb/inch that the wood would be required to support. With a compressive strength of 6750 psi and a pinch weld width of .0625 (1/16 inch), each inch of the wood and pinch weld could support far more than 100lb.
Thanks for the insight regarding the capacity of the wood itself. When I first attempted to lift the car with the pinch weld adapter on the wood blocks in the front and the regular rubber block in the back, I noticed the edge of the adapter did "bite" in to the wood block a little. That was with the car not even completely off the ground but that also was the wood block only being hit by the 1.5 inch wide adapter not along its whole length. Seeing that did give me some pause as to whether or not using the hard red oak as the top layer for the blocks was in fact a good idea. My biggest concern with just lifting the car along the whole length of the pinch weld on the wood blocks is that it would still put pressure on the underside of the side skirts of the car. At this point I'm still trying to figure out what my next move is to rectify the situation. I think I'm either going to make my own notch in the side skirt as far back as I can and use the existing pinch weld adapters. Or, someone in another forum recommend another type of pinch weld adapter that has a little thinner edge that I think I may be able to slip between the side skirt and the pinch weld. Whatever route I plan to go I will be making an update video to show whether or not it was successful.
I realize this video is from 2017, but anyone on the fence should know they now have a 6,000 pound model, the BL-6000XLT, that is their longest lift spread yet. Minimum lift point spread: 47.4”, maximum lift point spread: 75.8”. www.quickjack.com/car-lift-systems/bl-6000xlt-super-length-car-lift.html
Skip all that non scene..Do it right and you wont pay the price later , Purchase STEEDA chassis jacking rails mount them to your car ...Now safely Lift the car anywhere and the hell with the pinch point..Never trust them anyway . if you have the money to spend on these quick jack then go all out..SAFETY FIRST
I certainly appreciate the info on the STEEDA rails had never heard of them. However, with that being said they don't make them for Dodges so not an option.
The bottom piece is a piece of pressure treated 2x6 ripped down. The top piece is a 1x6 of red oak. Both pieces came from home depot. The width measurements were the same for all three sections but the length was different don't remember the exact lengths at this point.
Yup saw that. Actually had a conversation directly with Quickjack about buying just the lift assemblies from the EXT (without the motor) and during that conversation they mentioned the extensions. My only concern with the extensions is that it also added another 1.5" of height to the lift and I don't know if there will be enough clearance with that and the pinch weld adapters.
Thank you sir. I do have something else in the works. Someone in the Hellcat forums posted a different type of pinch weld adapter that is slight thinner and I'm hoping I will be able to get it between the edge of the skirt and the pinch weld so I can still use the wood blocks I fabricated. If that doesn't work I might make my own notch on the skirt for the adapters to fit.
coolwrld302 the other thing looks,like may work is tap a wing nut in the side of the block so you can clamp it to the pinch weld and not have to clear it and get the block lined up and have it fall off 10x....just a thought. On Porsches there is a similar thicker rail...there ar bars that fundamentally do the same thing that clamp on....and just enough to hold it on would do it and should clear.
Hello ! I'm a student in mechanical engineering and I would like to design one of these quickjack product for a project and especially the BL 5000 SLX. I was looking for the dimensions of your differents wood adapter so I would like to ask you if you do not mind sharing them with me please ? Thank you in advance for your answer
I think they would work like the regular rubber blocks that come with the jack. The main issue is the Hellcat side skirt butts up completely against the pinch weld and using the regular blocks or the pinch weld blocks puts pressure on the skirt. Those pinch weld blocks look like the would be wider than the notches in the skirt so would still flex the skirt. Plus since the lift is to short to hit both notches in the back they would definitely flex the skirt. The SLX extension they are releasing looks like it would solve the problem but it adds 1.5 inches in height. So then my concern is I would have a new problem of it not fitting under the car.
Needlessly complicated. Needlessly droning. Vague, ambiguous, and sometimes outright incorrect -The 5000 has a lift *range* (from fully lowered to fully raised) of 14.6", not "about 2 feet". -The 5000 has a radial range (front to back shift when lifting) of 10" -QuickJack's website emphasizes the importance of measuring the width between your vehicles jack points before ordering a QuickJack -After your first time positioning the jack under your vehicle, future attempts should take less than 15 seconds per side. -If you have a hard time visually judging where to place the jacks -- == get the jacks correctly positioned, raising them to the point of contact, to ensure correct positioning == lower the jacks, measure the distance from the jack to the front tire, and cut a pair of wood blocks to act as positioning jigs. == next time you use the jacks, place your spacer blocks against the tires, push the jacks against the wood block, and lift
Normally I wouldn't reply to a comment like this that starts off condescending and as for the needlessly complicated and needless drone much like a radio or a TV you simply could have stopped watching. As to the outright incorrect information you claim. According to QuickJack's own specs. The frame fully raised by itself is 17.6 inches so already higher than your 14.6 with the short blocks that goes to 18.4 with the large blocks it is 19.2 and with the blocks stacked it is 21.3 which is almost 2 feet to me. With that being said I do appreciate the actual helpful suggestions at the end of your comment. I had considered putting tape on the garage floor to help line them up but since the car may not be parked exactly the same each time that seemed pointless. I do like the idea of using wood blocks to set the position back from the front wheel.
1st failure is your car(dodge or ram what ever they call them now). Second failure is they named it hellcat. Thirds failure is you refer it to as a hellcat. Forth failure is yea I tried the wood too and I failed also lol. Going to buy the pinch weld blocks. Go in peace buy a different car lol.
I did the exact same thing on my Acura MDX and the vehicle fell off the lift! I could not hit the jack point so I just put it on the pinch weld and not the jack point and the uneven pressure cause the lift to pop out to the side. I do have a slick epoxy floor that didn't help but I could have been killed if I was under the vehicle. Email me for pics sdowler@usa.com
Wow man that sucks. So far I haven't had any issues with side to side movement. When I'm lifting on the pinch weld I try to ensure that each lift assembly is centered under the pinch weld. Also not sure about the MDX but the Chargers do have 2 different notches along the pinch weld that are supposed to serve as jack points but the shorter version of the Quickjack just is not quite long enough to hit both of them. While I haven't had side to side issues I did have front to back issues. I decided once to try lifting it where it hit the back notch but not the front notch. Well when I tried to start lifting it I could see that the rear wheels were getting ready to come off the ground and the fronts had barely reached the end of the suspension travel. I assume that the weight of the front end was too much. Luckily I didn't get that far before re-positioning it to hit the front notch. I did have one time when I used it the first time where I had put the jack up to the first lock point. When taking it down I thought both safety locking arms had disengaged but they hadn't. The car started listing dangerously to one side so I was able to stop it and put it back up and get both locks disengaged and get it down correctly.
We use our QJ5000SLX often on a variety of vehicles and if you use the included rubber blocks w/the grooves going the same way as the seams, it usually works really well. For those times they're not deep enough, cutting a slot in a set of 4 hockey pucks works really well, in our experience. This thing has been such an improvement in our family fleet maintenance for VWs, Mercurys, BMWs, and Toyotas that I can't imagine doing without nowadays. Makes sealed transmission work, suspension refits, and brake work a dream and I don't have to worry about chocking wheels anymore!
If your engine is installed in the front you have the wrong position of the quickjack. You have to turn it 180 degree that the car is not tipping during lift up.
This is correct they are backwards and reversed.
@@fattysgarage1754 but I have to correct my answer. Not every car is possible to like quickjack discribed. My old chevette has the engine in front but I have to turn the quickjack against the normal position because the lifting points at the front are to close to the front wheels. The good thing it's a less weight of the car so it doesn't slip over or tilt.
Use pinch-weld adapter on all four corners. Attach small footprint blocks to the bottom of the adapters to provide the clearance you need for the skirt in the front. You'll probably need to add magnets to the pinch-weld adapters to support the extra weight of the blocks.
I have the BL 5000 SLX and I bought the frame Extension to work with my Cadillac CTS and it works, but I cut 4 2×8's to roll on to give me the height to push the lift under it the larger blocks and it works!
So the lift with the frame extensions were too high to go under car without getting it up on the boards first?
@@coolwrld302, The Frames was too high for Mines as well but I just drove on those 2×8's and the car was high enough to put the lift under it with the tall blocks!
@@moe3575lou That's my concern with the Hellcat and shy I haven't bought the extensions yet. Have been considering just buying the rails of the longer versions and selling the current ones.
Thanks for all the detail ; personally, I think when ever you are speaking about a car lift you should not use the word "failure" in your title. Even if you are speaking of only the "enhancements", its very easy for a viewer to initially see the word failure and think the worst. I think you should edit that Out of your title.
Thanks for the feedback. Very true probably should have phrased it differently considering it definitely wasn't the jack that failed.
For anyone who has this issue, I slide 1.5in pads of rubber material I fabricated under my front tires to match the rear jack point.
I have a 7000, and love it. But, it must be parallel to the car, or you get uneven lifts, front and back positioning is less of an issue but still important. If you are not parallel, and at least close front to back, you WILL have problems. That being said, I still love my Quickjack.
Don't get me wrong I like the Quickjack as well just tired of having to hit the rubber blocks with the pinch weld adapters or using the rubber blocks directly on the pinch weld and then flexing the side skirts of the car. I have another set of different pinch weld adapters I got recently that I'm hoping to try tomorrow and make a follow-up video if I'm successful .
I like your wood block idea. The rubber blocks shouldn't be so narrow when the tray on the Quick Jack is so much longer and wider.
The SLX model has a max distance between jacking points of 60”, so you are struggling to get enough spread for your Hellcat. QuickJack do sell an extender bar that sits on top of the framework to reach 66”, although it is relatively expensive. For safety, you really need to be able to lift at the vehicle’s recommended lift points only, any shorter and you could have an unstable car. Also you’ll cause damage to the under-carriage pinch welding. An economic option is to find a steel- welder who could fabricate a steel extender to sit on and in the QuickJack frame top. Good luck, but remember safety is paramount, you don’t want to be working under the car and it falls on top of you.
The problem with the Quick Jack specifications regarding "max reach" is that the jack wont actually reach that max. Example: My wife's car has jack points at 66 inches apart, so I bought the 7000EXT with a "66 inch reach." Problem is that that would only work if I could lift the car with a couple credit cards on edge at the end of each side of the Quick Jack. To TRUELY reach and properly lift 66 inch lift points, the Quick Jack would need to be at least 2 inches longer on both ends so that I can fit a block in the center of the lift point, not just on the ragged edge of the lift point. This is why so many people (like me) wind up with a Quick Jack that is too short and we end up having to buy the new extensions. Quick Jack should know by now, that the reach they advertise wont actually work. The block needs to be centered at the lift point, not on the inside edges.
Agreed. In my case the problem is compounded because the car is so low. If I bought the extensions I don't know that the added height would allow the QJ to start into its range of motion before contacting the car. They say in their instructions it is important that the jack and move a little prior to needing to lift. After already dropping the cost of the original QJ I'm not sure I want to drop even more money to find out that doesn't improve the situation. At this point if I'm just swapping my rear drag radials on to the car I just use a regular floor jack and do one side at a time.
@@coolwrld302 great point. With the extensions I will only have an 8th inch before the jack touches the lift points. On the plus side, although quick jack mentions no dead lifting, in real use, the first inch that it lifts the car most of the weight is still on the wheels so it will "dead lift" to a degree because it's not taking a heavy load for the first bit so not really dead lifting by their definition. If you just placed 5000lbs directly on the jack on the other hand, it would fail to lift.
I guess in your case you could buy or make extensions and just drive the car onto 2X6's, then use the "quick" jack but yeah, a PIA when the whole point of the quick jack is to be quick.
Hadn't really thought about it like that related to the first inch or so the majority of the weight is still on the wheels/suspension very good point. My other concern and I would have to look at their site again is whether or not even with the extension it would still hit the front and back lift points on the Hellcat. I know from the perspective of where the side skirt notches on the pinch weld are it would probably work. But to hit the hockey puck in the back from the front sub frame location I'm not certain.
@@coolwrld302 yeah man I'm right there with you. I basically cut a 2x4 chunk small enough that although it was touching the seam weld OFF of the jack point, it didn't crush like the rubber pads so that the side skirt didn't have to bend in agony. I did that to the rear end since it's lighter than the front. I used my seam weld adaptors for the front since I had the jack forward enough to PROPERLY reach at least the front points (unlike the rear). Total PIA and it's still a MacGyver operation compared to how it would have been if Quickjack's 66 inch lift point spread really DID reach a 66 inch spread.
I have ended up damaging the pinch weld on my car. Since I haven't been using the QJ recently I still use those red adapters when I use the regular floor jack. The just fit in to the jack cradle. However, I think one of the wheels on the jack is very tight so you know how when you are jacking up a car the jack will usually roll in a little to keep the cradle flat as the arm goes up while in my case I don't think it is and that adapter got torqued in the cradle and as a result it bent the pinch weld. Now trying to figure out if I can even use the QJ anymore since with it I only lift along the pinch weld but with the floor jack I can use the hockey puck or the front sub frame.
You need to turn the jacks around 180 degrees. The orientation is wrong.
Yes, and then switch sides.
I’ve been looking for a Lyft for my shop I appreciate the detailed review😊👍
You're welcome. If you do decide on the Quick Jack I would personally say go for the extended version especially with a 392. With the short version I have been able to lift the car reliably along the pinch weld but I had to make my own notch on the side skirt near the rear to use the ZL1 Addon pinch weld adapters because the short version of the Quick Jack was not long enough to hit the existing notches in the front and back. I measured the distance and I think between the notches and I think the extended version might reach. I also am not quite sure if the extended version would reach between the front sub frame and rear hockey puck lift points.
I’ll definitely keep that in mind I’ve been looking at all different ones online for the past couple weeks.I have a Commercial Account O’reillys but I think you’re a little overpriced 🤔I think online I can find a better one.I might have to go a little higher than that particular model that you have but that is very nice to be able to lift your car the way you have it.When I buy mine I will do a video currently have too many projects going on at one time this month😊 Got a put a transmission into my big ram just rebuilt it
@@hellcatredeye-g6582 Got ours from CostCo and if your time is worth anything, having a QJ that just lifts everything at once, level, and fits in the back of a pickup w/a generator is absolute freedom.
I have the TL and I'd say it's ok, but only if you're lucky and get one without a defective air cylinder. If you do get one of those you're screwed - the company will 100% not stand behind their product. They'll claim the air-assist down isn't "necessary to the function of the lift". Really? So if one side has air assist down and the other doesn't, and they drop unevenly, that's safe? And then when the vehicle drops to the ground and one side of the lift goes straight to the full down position while the other... doesn't. You need to wait... and wait... and wait for it to drop with no weight on it. Quickjack will claim this "is normal operation" and that "it will get better over time". If you invest a massive amount of time trying to get them to stand behind their product they will, eventually, after burning through every once of customer goodwill, send out a new cylinder. Yay! Until you get the replacement and the freakin' air side is literally capped off. Like intentionally made unusable. That's not a fix guys. Then they'll claim that the engineers decided the down-assist wasn't necessary and that they've changed the design on future models. But I didn't buy a future model with less functionality. I bought the current model with exactly the functionality I wanted, was promised, and paid for. Whatever. Too much time wasted on it already - I've written off the entire company as another skanky marketing hack with no integrity.
I still have it in my shop, but the company worked very hard to make me regret my purchase and it low-key pisses me off every time I look at it. And honestly the setup is inconvenient enough that even when I do pull it out - warts and all - it happens very rarely. Only when I have a longer term project where I know the vehicle will be on the lift for a week or two. Definitely not for things like oil or tire changes. It's just way quicker to use a floor jack, or even ramps.
By the quickjack lift blocks and the 7000ext model.quickjack has 2 different pinch weld blocks..
You can also position the jacks perpendicular to the car and lift that way. You just won’t have access to exhaust (or whatever else might not be accessible) if that’s what you might need to work on.
Interesting suggestions. Have you done that specifically with a Hellcat? Just curious if it hits anything else in that configuration since the car sits low.
I haven done it/seen it with the Hellcat but I've seen people lift their cars perpendicular if they are using the 5000-SLX version with a short wheelbase car like a Mini Cooper or Fiat Abarth. There are some vids on youtube of people lifting it that way. I would take a quick look underneath to see if there's anything, like exhaust pipes, or hangers, sitting lower than the pinch welds. If not then you should be good.
Thanks. I will see if I can find any of those videos.
coolwrld302 Quickjack has a video here on RUclips that says it perfectly safe to use them perpendicularly. Search "Quickjack sideways"
Just watched the video thanks for letting me know they had one posted.
If the pinch weld is accessible for the length of the wood blocks, even with a 4500 lb Hellcat, the wood blocks alone will provide plenty of support...
4500 lb evenly divided would be 1125 lb on each block, and if each corner's weight was distributed along 12 inches of pinch weld and wood block, that would be less than 100 lb/inch that the wood would be required to support.
With a compressive strength of 6750 psi and a pinch weld width of .0625 (1/16 inch), each inch of the wood and pinch weld could support far more than 100lb.
Thanks for the insight regarding the capacity of the wood itself. When I first attempted to lift the car with the pinch weld adapter on the wood blocks in the front and the regular rubber block in the back, I noticed the edge of the adapter did "bite" in to the wood block a little. That was with the car not even completely off the ground but that also was the wood block only being hit by the 1.5 inch wide adapter not along its whole length. Seeing that did give me some pause as to whether or not using the hard red oak as the top layer for the blocks was in fact a good idea.
My biggest concern with just lifting the car along the whole length of the pinch weld on the wood blocks is that it would still put pressure on the underside of the side skirts of the car. At this point I'm still trying to figure out what my next move is to rectify the situation. I think I'm either going to make my own notch in the side skirt as far back as I can and use the existing pinch weld adapters. Or, someone in another forum recommend another type of pinch weld adapter that has a little thinner edge that I think I may be able to slip between the side skirt and the pinch weld. Whatever route I plan to go I will be making an update video to show whether or not it was successful.
I realize this video is from 2017, but anyone on the fence should know they now have a 6,000 pound model, the BL-6000XLT, that is their longest lift spread yet.
Minimum lift point spread: 47.4”, maximum lift point spread: 75.8”.
www.quickjack.com/car-lift-systems/bl-6000xlt-super-length-car-lift.html
Yea I saw this have considered selling mine an upgrading but haven't pulled the trigger yet.
So, you're using the incorrect tool. You should have made sure you purchased a lift that will accommodate the model vehicle you're intending to lift.
Jacks are backwards. Turn them 180 degrees and change sides.
U don't lift by pinch welds they have lift points
Never been a fan of lifting from pinch welds. I prefer to find a way to lift by the frame or other solid point of the vehicle.
Skip all that non scene..Do it right and you wont pay the price later , Purchase STEEDA chassis jacking rails mount them to your car ...Now safely Lift the car anywhere and the hell with the pinch point..Never trust them anyway . if you have the money to spend on these quick jack then go all out..SAFETY FIRST
I certainly appreciate the info on the STEEDA rails had never heard of them. However, with that being said they don't make them for Dodges so not an option.
User error. Lol
What size hardwood is the top piece? Did you used the same size for front and back?
The bottom piece is a piece of pressure treated 2x6 ripped down. The top piece is a 1x6 of red oak. Both pieces came from home depot. The width measurements were the same for all three sections but the length was different don't remember the exact lengths at this point.
They just released 6" en
Extensions ...
Yup saw that. Actually had a conversation directly with Quickjack about buying just the lift assemblies from the EXT (without the motor) and during that conversation they mentioned the extensions. My only concern with the extensions is that it also added another 1.5" of height to the lift and I don't know if there will be enough clearance with that and the pinch weld adapters.
coolwrld302 doesn't look like it would be much more than the block height. Good luck!
Thank you sir. I do have something else in the works. Someone in the Hellcat forums posted a different type of pinch weld adapter that is slight thinner and I'm hoping I will be able to get it between the edge of the skirt and the pinch weld so I can still use the wood blocks I fabricated. If that doesn't work I might make my own notch on the skirt for the adapters to fit.
coolwrld302 the other thing looks,like may work is tap a wing nut in the side of the block so you can clamp it to the pinch weld and not have to clear it and get the block lined up and have it fall off 10x....just a thought. On Porsches there is a similar thicker rail...there ar bars that fundamentally do the same thing that clamp on....and just enough to hold it on would do it and should clear.
Measure twice, cut once.
Regarding what part I'm confused?
What a waste of time..Jack works great...
Hello !
I'm a student in mechanical engineering and I would like to design one of these quickjack product for a project and especially the BL 5000 SLX.
I was looking for the dimensions of your differents wood adapter so I would like to ask you if you do not mind sharing them with me please ?
Thank you in advance for your answer
Would the pinch weld blocks QuickJack released help your situation?
I think they would work like the regular rubber blocks that come with the jack. The main issue is the Hellcat side skirt butts up completely against the pinch weld and using the regular blocks or the pinch weld blocks puts pressure on the skirt. Those pinch weld blocks look like the would be wider than the notches in the skirt so would still flex the skirt. Plus since the lift is to short to hit both notches in the back they would definitely flex the skirt. The SLX extension they are releasing looks like it would solve the problem but it adds 1.5 inches in height. So then my concern is I would have a new problem of it not fitting under the car.
Needlessly complicated. Needlessly droning. Vague, ambiguous, and sometimes outright incorrect
-The 5000 has a lift *range* (from fully lowered to fully raised) of 14.6", not "about 2 feet".
-The 5000 has a radial range (front to back shift when lifting) of 10"
-QuickJack's website emphasizes the importance of measuring the width between your vehicles jack points before ordering a QuickJack
-After your first time positioning the jack under your vehicle, future attempts should take less than 15 seconds per side.
-If you have a hard time visually judging where to place the jacks --
== get the jacks correctly positioned, raising them to the point of contact, to ensure correct positioning
== lower the jacks, measure the distance from the jack to the front tire, and cut a pair of wood blocks to act as positioning jigs.
== next time you use the jacks, place your spacer blocks against the tires, push the jacks against the wood block, and lift
Normally I wouldn't reply to a comment like this that starts off condescending and as for the needlessly complicated and needless drone much like a radio or a TV you simply could have stopped watching. As to the outright incorrect information you claim. According to QuickJack's own specs. The frame fully raised by itself is 17.6 inches so already higher than your 14.6 with the short blocks that goes to 18.4 with the large blocks it is 19.2 and with the blocks stacked it is 21.3 which is almost 2 feet to me. With that being said I do appreciate the actual helpful suggestions at the end of your comment. I had considered putting tape on the garage floor to help line them up but since the car may not be parked exactly the same each time that seemed pointless. I do like the idea of using wood blocks to set the position back from the front wheel.
How many inches apart are your pinchweld notches?
I've not actually measured them but I believe I read somewhere that they are around 66 inches apart.
your way to picky dude. hellcat or not. lift it!!!!
1st failure is your car(dodge or ram what ever they call them now). Second failure is they named it hellcat. Thirds failure is you refer it to as a hellcat. Forth failure is yea I tried the wood too and I failed also lol. Going to buy the pinch weld blocks. Go in peace buy a different car lol.
Are these made in China? I would never risk my life under a Chinese lift!
I did the exact same thing on my Acura MDX and the vehicle fell off the lift! I could not hit the jack point so I just put it on the pinch weld and not the jack point and the uneven pressure cause the lift to pop out to the side. I do have a slick epoxy floor that didn't help but I could have been killed if I was under the vehicle. Email me for pics sdowler@usa.com
Wow man that sucks. So far I haven't had any issues with side to side movement. When I'm lifting on the pinch weld I try to ensure that each lift assembly is centered under the pinch weld. Also not sure about the MDX but the Chargers do have 2 different notches along the pinch weld that are supposed to serve as jack points but the shorter version of the Quickjack just is not quite long enough to hit both of them.
While I haven't had side to side issues I did have front to back issues. I decided once to try lifting it where it hit the back notch but not the front notch. Well when I tried to start lifting it I could see that the rear wheels were getting ready to come off the ground and the fronts had barely reached the end of the suspension travel. I assume that the weight of the front end was too much. Luckily I didn't get that far before re-positioning it to hit the front notch.
I did have one time when I used it the first time where I had put the jack up to the first lock point. When taking it down I thought both safety locking arms had disengaged but they hadn't. The car started listing dangerously to one side so I was able to stop it and put it back up and get both locks disengaged and get it down correctly.