@@martin2466 hi mate. You can use it over most substrates as long as your prep is right in that situation. Ie you use the right primers, scarifying the floor, screw down boards ect. Its very versatile Thanks for watching Greg
This is so cool and clearly shows how wrong the stereotype of builders/tradesmen being slap dash, knuckle dragging bodgers can be. Yet another skilled, conscientious and articulate tradesman bought to us courtesy of Team A&E. I could watch these kind of guys all day long. 😍 We always encourage our customers to fit a decoupling matt as the extra cost of its installation pales into insignificance if when their £100 per square meter floor starts cracking. 😭
Hi Del much appreciated, this is so true from clients that’s why we have the policy no correct details then we don’t do the floors hope you are having a awesome week all the best Tony 👍
@@groovejet33 Hi there. I'm the same as you. All the guys I work with are top fellas who are great at what they do. But I think there is this misconception amongst the general public that builders are usually rough and uncaring.
Could listen to you all day mate, great advice . Trying to get in to the tiling game and your videos are really helpful. From a fellow Brummie, you get a big thumbs up from me 👍
Is there a way to seal an edge where this matting comes up against a "Jackoboard" type under tile tray? Can I use the Mapei tape system to seal the joint, or am I better off using the matching 6mm insulation boards, rather than the mat?
Is it possible to layer it, i.e matting, adhesive, then another layer of matting because I have a significant dip in one area of my floor (not a large area, maybe 2 or 3 sq feet. Or I could just apply the adhesive thicker
Hi There. I like your video. thanks. QUESTION ? I am doing a small tiling job. only x 2 square meters bathroom floor. I want to know ? Is there any multi purpose adhesive which I could use for both - sticking on waterproof decoupling membrane onto a concrete subfloor and also using the same adhesive for sticking tiles on top of it ?
My tiler has just laid this and it looks like there are loads of lumps under it. He has convinced me it makes no difference but I'm not so sure? Any advice would be great before he lays 72sqm of 1mx1m porcelain tiles!
Hi there I love the video very informative can I ask the following? I'm going to tile a second floor bathroom floor in a new building so chipboard flooring. Is this matting suitable for this substrate or would you advise something else? Thanks
Hi buddy can you help I'm putting down some matting the question is do I still need to use flexible tile adhesive if I'm using matting as the matting is suposed to take the movement. Great video.
Do you need to leave a 5mm minimum gap around the edges for expansion? I fitted my mine following your video but on certain notes on Durabase, it states you need to leave the edges free from adhesive and for expansion. Great videos by the way, helped me so much
Ive watched half a dozen videos now. Because you make them very interesting & easy to watch. When i think? I havent skipped forward once, while watching your content. And believe me, i always fast forward...lol.. Being in the domestic construction industry, we dont come accross many new ideas to do things. Im guessing, that you do loads of graft On Site? Great stuff
I have an anhydride screed that I’ve removed the laitence and it is completely dry then primed with P121 Stopgap primer . Do I need anhyflex tile adhesive to secure the durabase or can I use af 200 or the britflex that you use in your video
Hi with water underfloor heating have you applied screed and subfloor on top and then durabase or is it just screed and durabase on top and what is depth of screed and subfloor please
Great video mate. I have a run from my kitchen through to the front door that I want to tile. The kitchen has a concrete floor but the hallway is wooden floorboards. The current tiles near the threshold have cracked where the concrete meets the wood. How would you attack the wooden area so I don’t have the issue of the tiles cracking?
Nice tip with rolling it backwards to stop the edges curling. I used some for the first time a few weeks ago and had a 'mare with the edges peeling up and had to weigh them down until it dried. I noticed you had some bits tiles/adhesive etc sat on the matting after you had put the adhesive down. Were they there to stop it curling or do you find it all stays down on its own if laid properly?
Does it matter wat way it’s cut...my kitchen is like an L shape and another L shape ...so need to cut different shapes big n small ...is this ok ...thanks
Great job lads! Quick question. If I want to level my concrete floor in a bathroom using a levelling compound would you put the matting down first and then levelling compound or the other way round ? Thanks in advance
I watched this about a month ago. I now have the matting that will be going onto my primed 18mm plywood flooring. I need to watch again because I am bricking it. Before I do, my main concern in the adhesive and it's consistency. I bought some ready mixed from Screwfix but in my head it should be more fluid????? I have to get the damn thing down tomorrow. I am bricking it.
I need to mix my own, I thought so. Another nightmare. I do have a whisk for my drill that I used to mix up some self levelling compound. Er? The area I am matting is only 3m2. Small shower room with toilet and sink. I just need to get on with it. Thanks for the video, I can't afford to pay someone otherwise I would. I can tile, just never used this matting before. I need to stop worrying and just get on with it lol.
I did it. I think I made the adhesive a little too wet. My wife came to see how I was getting on and I told her "I think it's too wet". She went downstairs and looked it up. She found this video 🤯 came back and said "It looks the same as the video I just watched Lee". I purchased Bostik Super Flex 8 Hour Drying Time adhesive. I asked her to show me the video she watched 🥳 All I can do now is wait and hope. If I made the muck a little wetter than you did, will that matter ????? Will it just take longer to go off or will I need to rip it up and start again ?
Have you laid this stuff onto dry bitumen glu residual left from old council tiles don't want to spend 2 weeks grinding it off or 4 weeks rubbing it off with wd40.
@@BuildWithAE Hi sorry to be a nuisance but I was looking it up on their website and it says it can be laid on wooden floors. I copied and pasted their description This 5x1M roll of decoupling membrane by Durabase is suitable to be laid on wooden floors and newly laid concrete floors to prevent any cracks in the foundation, from affecting the tiles by isolating the tiled flooring from the substrate below. Quick and easy to install, this is ideal for fixing old, problematic flooring including any cracks in the floor can also be bridged so they do not affect the tiling.
Class job Tony. I like your homemade paddle might make one up. I use a vinyl roller also I bring boxes of tiles in and lay them out loose especially around the edges to stop matting rolling back. Plus tiles are in the room ready for tiling next day. 😁👍
Class as always! is that a flow screed? What have you guys been doing about running the ufh temperatures during the curing process? I’ve seen some horrors when entire floors have had to be dug up after tiles cracking or lvt bubbling. It’s funny how every trade tries to play the blame with others. Doubt we’ll see any of that on your jobs though 😎😇😀
Hi Richard each screed has there own technical data on drying, If your liquid screed is laid over underfloor heating then you can start to force dry the screed 7 days following placement, we would then recommend a 3 week heating and cooling cycle of your UFH system. It is vital that you test the floors’ moisture content before applying your final floor finishes. all the best Tony 👍
Not sure on the anti fracture matting except from when using stone. I'm a UK tiler now tiling in New Zealand. Nz is a very shaky country with multiple tremors every year and they never use this stuff and don't have any issues. Stone is usually softer than tile so id use it for that but not for anything else really. Just use expansion gaps where necessary.
Blimey. I ‘love’ how RUclipsrs with any experience now feel they have to preamble their generous sharing of hard-earned knowledge with a disclaimer, along the lines of ‘not saying my way is best’ to try and head off the squadron of armchair critics who, with crushing inevitability, will be along any minute with their Harry Enfield ‘you don't wanna do it like that!’ drivel. Such a shame. Just want to say, Thank You for sharing this great stuff :)
Can't do that when its a screed mate. Could do it at the ends on wooden substrates but only as a secondary measure. Full coverage of adhesive is advised at all times dude Thanks for watching Greg
Superb video and quality work as always, playing devils advocate, the cost of using this must be horrendous, your labour + double the adhesive and the decoupling product, I know floors laid prior to this stuff being used standing the test of time, do you think it’s over kill for a nice flat screened floor like this and just for use on problem areas or is it to do with the introduction of ufh? I’ve used it myself on a timber floor I wasn’t confident with. (Not at all knocking your high quality work!!)
Hi Michael much appreciated, yes with Ufh it’s changed a lot with specifications and technical instructions, we are always accountable for the work we do, the client will always contact you with any issues and if you haven’t ticked ever box it costs you so that’s why we do it, we explain this to the clients if they don’t want to pay for the correct install we don’t do it, we had a great one Beletex liquid screed advocate that you don’t need to scarify the floor before priming but that’s aload of rubbish because if you ask them to put it in writing and if the floor fails then they will not cover the cost to replace it, but we use Beletex great product but we tick every box sorry to go on all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE How do you scarify after the screed? Use a sander or something? Question: planning travertine tile floor with 24"x24" tile. Using 1 1/8" plywood (glued and screwed) subfloor designed for l/720 per TCNA. However, TCNA recommends 3/4" subfloor with 1/2" underlayment (screwed 6" oc - no glue) with offset joints. It's a lot more labor to install underlayment and I honestly think will provide a less-stiff floor. Any thoughts?
Hi Martin. Just to be clear it doesn't take all day to lay we as a rule take about half a day to lay the matting. You should always prime your substrates anyway and also have the floor scarified if its a new flow screed as industry standard. I do an inclusive pricing system for our clients to have this product layed for piece of mind and it is recommended for new unf heated areas. We also used a micro joint expansion strip in the floor as the length of the room exceeds 8 liner meters Hope this helps with your query and thanks for watching Greg
sorry, i dont mean to offend. It doesnt need to be as accurate as you make out , does it? Id be the same. Of course, thats how you do things, a quality job. But if a mistake was made, it wouldnt be a issue, would it?I wudda thought thered be a overlap like laminate underlay has
Quality preparation from a quality craftsman using quality products.Overall a quality team.
👍👍
All A and E videos put a smile on my face. You're so dedicated to getting every aspect right. It's fantastic to see 😁
Hi Barrington Smythe much appreciated all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome week
Being a tiler always look forward to Gregg's tiling, i use a lot of durabase, great product
@@martin2466 hi mate. You can use it over most substrates as long as your prep is right in that situation. Ie you use the right primers, scarifying the floor, screw down boards ect. Its very versatile
Thanks for watching
Greg
👍👍
Loving the work Greg. Honest and straight forward reasoning for all you do. Good pride in your work. Spot on. 💪💪
This is so cool and clearly shows how wrong the stereotype of builders/tradesmen being slap dash, knuckle dragging bodgers can be. Yet another skilled, conscientious and articulate tradesman bought to us courtesy of Team A&E. I could watch these kind of guys all day long. 😍 We always encourage our customers to fit a decoupling matt as the extra cost of its installation pales into insignificance if when their £100 per square meter floor starts cracking. 😭
Hi Del much appreciated, this is so true from clients that’s why we have the policy no correct details then we don’t do the floors hope you are having a awesome week all the best Tony 👍
Dunno what trademen youve been using? lol. But all my work pals are top fellas, high standards and honest , reliable people
@@groovejet33 Hi there. I'm the same as you. All the guys I work with are top fellas who are great at what they do. But I think there is this misconception amongst the general public that builders are usually rough and uncaring.
@@thetallcarpenter yeh dunno why, differance to a old perception of a builer to a tradesman these days, milles apart
Na, I agree that most trades are complete cowboys. There's way too many awful ones out there and you all charge more than doctors for low skilled work
Could listen to you all day mate, great advice .
Trying to get in to the tiling game and your videos are really helpful.
From a fellow Brummie, you get a big thumbs up from me 👍
Thanks Davo D, I'm sure Greg will be pleased to hear that he's helping you 😁
All the best, John 😊
Is there a way to seal an edge where this matting comes up against a "Jackoboard" type under tile tray? Can I use the Mapei tape system to seal the joint, or am I better off using the matching 6mm insulation boards, rather than the mat?
Amazing content guy's on all your videos. Thank you.
Glad you like them! 👍
Is it possible to layer it, i.e matting, adhesive, then another layer of matting because I have a significant dip in one area of my floor (not a large area, maybe 2 or 3 sq feet. Or I could just apply the adhesive thicker
Hi There. I like your video. thanks. QUESTION ? I am doing a small tiling job. only x 2 square meters bathroom floor. I want to know ? Is there any multi purpose adhesive which I could use for both - sticking on waterproof decoupling membrane onto a concrete subfloor and also using the same adhesive for sticking tiles on top of it ?
What adhesive would you use for tiling a ceiling in a shower? Great vid 👍
Quick question mate, can I fit this on my chipboard flooring?
My tiler has just laid this and it looks like there are loads of lumps under it. He has convinced me it makes no difference but I'm not so sure? Any advice would be great before he lays 72sqm of 1mx1m porcelain tiles!
Top job. First class. Excellent instructional video because you took the time to explain why you did what you did.
Hi Arthur much appreciated all the best Tony 👍
Hi there I love the video very informative can I ask the following? I'm going to tile a second floor bathroom floor in a new building so chipboard flooring. Is this matting suitable for this substrate or would you advise something else? Thanks
Hi buddy can you help I'm putting down some matting the question is do I still need to use flexible tile adhesive if I'm using matting as the matting is suposed to take the movement. Great video.
Do I have to cover the hole area or can I just put it in areas where services cracks have appeared on the latex floor screed
Do you need to leave a 5mm minimum gap around the edges for expansion? I fitted my mine following your video but on certain notes on Durabase, it states you need to leave the edges free from adhesive and for expansion.
Great videos by the way, helped me so much
Ive watched half a dozen videos now. Because you make them very interesting & easy to watch. When i think? I havent skipped forward once, while watching your content. And believe me, i always fast forward...lol..
Being in the domestic construction industry, we dont come accross many new ideas to do things. Im guessing, that you do loads of graft On Site? Great stuff
Great cutting in, perfect! Looking forward to seeing you do your magic on the tiles. 👍
Can you use this over original floorboards instead of board? Thanks
No mate
Big Greg back in the house 👌🏼🏴👍🏼
Cheers for watching mate
Thanks Greg
👍👍
Love the videos you’ve done Greg. The traditional Victorian tiled path was unbelievable
@@cooking.with.rob.official thanks dude really appreciate it
Cheers
Greg
If in say 10 years I wanted lift the tiles and
re-tile the floor and had used Greg’s method would their be any issues?
Hi Jonathan no it wouldn’t just take you a long time to smash up
I have an anhydride screed that I’ve removed the laitence and it is completely dry then primed with P121 Stopgap primer . Do I need anhyflex tile adhesive to secure the durabase or can I use af 200 or the britflex that you use in your video
Hi with water underfloor heating have you applied screed and subfloor on top and then durabase or is it just screed and durabase on top and what is depth of screed and subfloor please
Is it water under floor heating underneath or electrical?
Hi, do you still need to prime the subfloor before installing this if its plywood?
Brilliant video mate we haven’t used the matting yet but definitely will be next time 👍 all the best guys 👏👏👏
Hi Mike much appreciated cracking stuff to use all the best Tony 👍
Great video mate. I have a run from my kitchen through to the front door that I want to tile. The kitchen has a concrete floor but the hallway is wooden floorboards. The current tiles near the threshold have cracked where the concrete meets the wood. How would you attack the wooden area so I don’t have the issue of the tiles cracking?
Nice job 💪🏼 We use a vibrating plate here to push it on 🇧🇪
Can you use that on council concrete pathway flooring?
Nice tip with rolling it backwards to stop the edges curling.
I used some for the first time a few weeks ago and had a 'mare with the edges peeling up and had to weigh them down until it dried.
I noticed you had some bits tiles/adhesive etc sat on the matting after you had put the adhesive down. Were they there to stop it curling or do you find it all stays down on its own if laid properly?
They were just to make sure it all stays were i want it thats all but doing that does help wile it all drys
Thanks for watching
Greg
@@gregneale4455 Thanks. Makes sense. I'll use your method next time and see how I get on
Can anyone advise if this matt on a flat concrete floor prevent hollow tiles??
Hi, not understand, do we need to prime subfloor before glue this yellow mat?
Yes definitely talk to screed company they will do it
Is it the same process for wood floors? Thanks
Hi Slashley.
Pretty much yer. Just make sure your wooden floor is screwed down well. Then hoover and prime
Hope this helps
Greg
Sorry thought you were talking about putting timber down senior moment 😂
@@gregneale4455 right on!
Does it matter wat way it’s cut...my kitchen is like an L shape and another L shape ...so need to cut different shapes big n small ...is this ok ...thanks
Great job lads! Quick question. If I want to level my concrete floor in a bathroom using a levelling compound would you put the matting down first and then levelling compound or the other way round ? Thanks in advance
I watched this about a month ago. I now have the matting that will be going onto my primed 18mm plywood flooring. I need to watch again because I am bricking it. Before I do, my main concern in the adhesive and it's consistency. I bought some ready mixed from Screwfix but in my head it should be more fluid????? I have to get the damn thing down tomorrow. I am bricking it.
I need to mix my own, I thought so. Another nightmare. I do have a whisk for my drill that I used to mix up some self levelling compound. Er? The area I am matting is only 3m2. Small shower room with toilet and sink. I just need to get on with it. Thanks for the video, I can't afford to pay someone otherwise I would. I can tile, just never used this matting before. I need to stop worrying and just get on with it lol.
I did it. I think I made the adhesive a little too wet. My wife came to see how I was getting on and I told her "I think it's too wet". She went downstairs and looked it up. She found this video 🤯 came back and said "It looks the same as the video I just watched Lee". I purchased Bostik Super Flex 8 Hour Drying Time adhesive. I asked her to show me the video she watched 🥳 All I can do now is wait and hope. If I made the muck a little wetter than you did, will that matter ????? Will it just take longer to go off or will I need to rip it up and start again ?
Can you use that stuff on floorboards instead of covering it all with plywood? New subscriber!
Very informative very good guys
Thanks
Justin brickright 👍
Hi Justin much appreciated have a great week all the best Tony 👍
Have you laid this stuff onto dry bitumen glu residual left from old council tiles don't want to spend 2 weeks grinding it off or 4 weeks rubbing it off with wd40.
No mate
@@BuildWithAE that's that then 😊 😃
Can you use this on floorboards too?
No buddy
@@BuildWithAE
Hi sorry to be a nuisance but I was looking it up on their website and it says it can be laid on wooden floors. I copied and pasted their description
This 5x1M roll of decoupling membrane by Durabase is suitable to be laid on wooden floors and newly laid concrete floors to prevent any cracks in the foundation, from affecting the tiles by isolating the tiled flooring from the substrate below. Quick and easy to install, this is ideal for fixing old, problematic flooring including any cracks in the floor can also be bridged so they do not affect the tiling.
Use on suspended timber floor and tile over?
Is this suitable for a timber subfloor in a kitchen or is backer board the only option?
Timber subfloor is fine. Just make sure it's screwed down well (don't want nail popping under your tile), cleaned well, and primed prior to matting.
Class job Tony. I like your homemade paddle might make one up. I use a vinyl roller also I bring boxes of tiles in and lay them out loose especially around the edges to stop matting rolling back. Plus tiles are in the room ready for tiling next day. 😁👍
Sorry Greg lol
Is the homelux ultra mat from Wickes the same process as this?
Hi Ben speak to Wicks or the manufacturer details all the best Tony 👍
If the matting is plastic on the top, how does the cement based adhesive actually grip?
Matting on back
@@BuildWithAE ok, it has some kind of fabric on the back, but the yellow top side, is it plastic?
mapei primer, why not use mapei um its identical?
Any reason you don't use Ditra mat 25?
Hi everyone has there type of product I suppose all the best Tony 👍
Nice video great tips and tricks
Glad you liked it 👍
Nice job mate you take so much care awesome 👍
Thanks 👍
Class as always! is that a flow screed? What have you guys been doing about running the ufh temperatures during the curing process?
I’ve seen some horrors when entire floors have had to be dug up after tiles cracking or lvt bubbling. It’s funny how every trade tries to play the blame with others.
Doubt we’ll see any of that on your jobs though 😎😇😀
Hi Richard each screed has there own technical data on drying,
If your liquid screed is laid over underfloor heating then you can start to force dry the screed 7 days following placement, we would then recommend a 3 week heating and cooling cycle of your UFH system.
It is vital that you test the floors’ moisture content before applying your final floor finishes.
all the best Tony 👍
Excellent video
Glad you liked it, take care 👍
Brilliant stuff Thanks 🤙👊👌💯👍🍺💪
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Another great video. Is this little adhesive really enough to stick the matts down?
Like shit to a blanket!
Hi Tony
Yer it sticks like nothing you have seen before. You need to smash the whole floor up to get a tile out
Thanks for watching
Greg
What about fitting it to OSB?
Not for me Dave
Great Job..
Thanks Neil! 👍
Not sure on the anti fracture matting except from when using stone. I'm a UK tiler now tiling in New Zealand. Nz is a very shaky country with multiple tremors every year and they never use this stuff and don't have any issues. Stone is usually softer than tile so id use it for that but not for anything else really. Just use expansion gaps where necessary.
I use this on every floor I tile ,I use a Kardean roller to lay it and my SR-1 ergo seat still rolls over the mating so much easier on the knees.👍
The Best
Blimey. I ‘love’ how RUclipsrs with any experience now feel they have to preamble their generous sharing of hard-earned knowledge with a disclaimer, along the lines of ‘not saying my way is best’ to try and head off the squadron of armchair critics who, with crushing inevitability, will be along any minute with their Harry Enfield ‘you don't wanna do it like that!’ drivel. Such a shame. Just want to say, Thank You for sharing this great stuff :)
Good tilers are like rocking horse shit in london!
We do travel Matthew. So message me on my Instagram if you ever need anything
Thanks for watching
Greg
Will do!
staple gun on ends and whole matt mate
Can't do that when its a screed mate. Could do it at the ends on wooden substrates but only as a secondary measure. Full coverage of adhesive is advised at all times dude
Thanks for watching
Greg
Why aren’t you answering the questions .i wanted to know if it can be laid on floorboards ,someone asked this and you didn’t answer.
Superb video and quality work as always, playing devils advocate, the cost of using this must be horrendous, your labour + double the adhesive and the decoupling product, I know floors laid prior to this stuff being used standing the test of time, do you think it’s over kill for a nice flat screened floor like this and just for use on problem areas or is it to do with the introduction of ufh? I’ve used it myself on a timber floor I wasn’t confident with. (Not at all knocking your high quality work!!)
Hi Michael much appreciated, yes with Ufh it’s changed a lot with specifications and technical instructions, we are always accountable for the work we do, the client will always contact you with any issues and if you haven’t ticked ever box it costs you so that’s why we do it, we explain this to the clients if they don’t want to pay for the correct install we don’t do it, we had a great one Beletex liquid screed advocate that you don’t need to scarify the floor before priming but that’s aload of rubbish because if you ask them to put it in writing and if the floor fails then they will not cover the cost to replace it, but we use Beletex great product but we tick every box sorry to go on all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE How do you scarify after the screed? Use a sander or something?
Question: planning travertine tile floor with 24"x24" tile. Using 1 1/8" plywood (glued and screwed) subfloor designed for l/720 per TCNA. However, TCNA recommends 3/4" subfloor with 1/2" underlayment (screwed 6" oc - no glue) with offset joints. It's a lot more labor to install underlayment and I honestly think will provide a less-stiff floor. Any thoughts?
@@BuildWithAE don’t apologise for going on mate, cracking reply. I look up and aspire to your guys high standards. Great channel. Thanks 👍🏼👍🏼
two men one day each plus primer and matting plus floor prep? all for why? just put in two expansion cuts
Hi Martin. Just to be clear it doesn't take all day to lay we as a rule take about half a day to lay the matting.
You should always prime your substrates anyway and also have the floor scarified if its a new flow screed as industry standard.
I do an inclusive pricing system for our clients to have this product layed for piece of mind and it is recommended for new unf heated areas.
We also used a micro joint expansion strip in the floor as the length of the room exceeds 8 liner meters
Hope this helps with your query and thanks for watching
Greg
Martin A1 Think you’re missing the point here, it’s a decoupling membrane, expansion cuts are irrelevant if the substrate cracks beneath the tiles.
@@aerobar2551 Thank you!
Hello
Bonjour! 👍
👍🏻
Not sure if cocoon was the right word..recess sounds better 🔥🔫
sorry, i dont mean to offend. It doesnt need to be as accurate as you make out , does it? Id be the same. Of course, thats how you do things, a quality job. But if a mistake was made, it wouldnt be a issue, would it?I wudda thought thered be a overlap like laminate underlay has
20 minutes for what could be summaries in 3.
Thanks matey. Great informative video.