B204t is a superb engine made to last. Mine is mapped to 230hp and has now done 217k miles. It uses no oil between changes. I use 5/30 Granville C3 oil (dexos2 spec) with Mann filters and E3 plugs. It still has its original cam chain. Recently it developed a slight rattle but upon removing the cam cover (spotlessly clean with no sludge) I found it was just a worn top guide which clips into the top of the cover. It was only £10 and around an hours DIY work. Even the rubber cam cover gaskets were still in good condition and perfectly reusable. I can't remember the reference number but I use a larger than standard oil filter. Only a guess but reckon this may have helped with longevity. Good video.
The aluminium jigger you made to fit the bush in is called the knockEE and the tool you used to belt it in is called the knockER. Another very interesting video while having breaky.
Is there anything you can’t do? I’d be interested to hear your thoughts after driving it on the difference in NVH and HP. Had you done this to your last engine?
Great job well done. Didn’t you think it was advisable to make a couple of blanking plates to close off the holes left where the balance shafts were? Just wondering about the crank case pressure in the gallery ??
Great work there Matt, less rotating mass the better.. I'm doing a delete to my Duratec 2.3 it's way simpler with a $15 plug once the counter spinners unbolt lol
Nice work and interesting stroll around the Saab engine. When you go blocking oil galleries I get a pucker thinking of my Harley, almost every oil gallery is scavenged once or twice down the train. That also explains the cascading failures on my bike when something goes fail there are ensuing failures. Great video I love watching engine work, cheers and congrats on the growing subs! PS; those balance shafts were quite hefty, does it make a lot of difference on power and smoothness?
I am taking a 2 week vacation soon and was just getting ready to do a few routine maintenance things. Such as, water pump, timing chain, guides, the bullshit 😒. Lucky me haha great video man! Might toss the balance shaft delete idea around 🤔
hmmmm , looking at the verry deep machined grooves in the balanceshafts theres a good change the the oilfeed to or from the heads goes through the bearing surfaces of the balance shafts , and plugging them up might starve the top end from oil or make the flow back of oil out of the head harder causing the sump to empty over time you can still do the mod but instead of putting in pieces of pipe you make plugs with the groove in them out of cast iron (same material as the engine block so it expands and contract the same way as the block ) you can still install those like you did the pipe if you dril a hole in the center and make a drive in tool for it seen those drive in tools being used for block mounted cambearings and usually the have an edge at the end of the cam that hits the engine block when the bearing is seated fully , takes the guesswork out of installng them
Yes I did comment on oil feed to the head ,this is common practice to meter the head with oil . And the drillings often come from the main oil gallery via balance bearings and then up to the head .Paul .
A year ago, but very informative, Thankyou buddy. Just one question, The parasitic power loss is the drag from the chain on the shafts, Is their any reason why I could not Just remove the chain, blank the tensioner, trim the lower guide, But leave both balance shafts in place? Would appreciate an answer,
Also worth noting their is a oil way that feeds into the main chain guide on the right which trickles oil onto the balance chain a lot of people plastic weld this up on the balance chain side to aid with oil pressure. I've done this swap on a few b204 engines and it makes a massive difference to how quickly they rev. The shafts are about 2kg each so makes a huge difference to reducing rotation mass
Good evening young man. Which Gearbox do you use on the SAAB engine in the MK2 Escort? Is there a video of that building? Very good channel you have here on YT. Best regards from Norway. Ivar
Great video ! I want to do this to my 2000 9-3 motor. With doing it the way you showed. I'm assuming since blocking the rear cam journal. I don't have to plug the #3 crank journal oil hole in the block. Do I have to pull the block to do this to remove that rear bearing that gets knocked out. Or can it be removed from inside the block. I've been reading about this awhile. Your way seems so much easier. 👍👍👍
43, 03-43,05 внутренняя, 44,03-44,05 внешняя. Во внутренней отверстие под резьбу М8 или М10 для того что бы накрутить на длинную шпильку и установить. Можно перед установкой подержать в холодильнике.
Had a daft idea for increased oil capacity that may or may not work as it's straight of the top of my head, tap holes in the pan sidewalls as close as possible to the bottom and add lengths of braided oil pipeline where there's clearance and have it loop back into the sump so you don't have to fabricate a whole new one???:)
@@den2k286 Sure, but if he puts the tank in the boot its still a lot of plumbing and hardware. Compared to knocking up a decent sump with some baffles/flaps which he could do using a few bits of tin in a couple of hours. Don't get me wrong I fancied one but a special sump and pump from Pace was a lumpy price.
@@johnnytenjobs I understand the point on money but the sump he can fabricate with an integral the oil pick up pipe to the original pump. Then scavenge to a tank in the Engine bay. he can fabricate this too baffles and all. needs to be tall an slim. i just fear angle of attack for Engine is steep. will loose another bottom or have massive rear main seal and clutch issues. I have done something similar to a pinto in a mk1 Escort in about 88 or 89. Any way i like his fabrication so lets see that cnc plasma do some work.
@@NorwayVFX thats why bearings need to be replaced and the oil valleys needs be ported/opened up more. Even parts of the oil pump as well need be cleaned and polished for smooth flow. Keep oil at the bottom end vs. flooding the head.
Oil starvation due to a faulty sump whose design was likely a result of compensating for balance shafts. All in the name of comfort. Seems Saab should've engineered an entirely new, smoother running engine rather than add a system of counterweights. Maybe somebody can fill me in as I know nothing about manufacturing engines. Cheers.
@@recap5172 I thought he said the new one would be his own design. I think that the position of the pick-up tube was not realistic for the way the car was being driven. Too much oil sloshing about, leaving the pick-up to suck air.
Wow that was good! I never realised those Saab engines even had balance shafts! Very informative indeed Matt - excellent vid as usual.
Any videos of the rwd sump getting made I'm doing a rwd conversion myself it would be good to see
B204t is a superb engine made to last. Mine is mapped to
230hp and has now done 217k miles. It uses no oil between changes. I use 5/30 Granville C3 oil (dexos2 spec) with Mann filters and E3 plugs. It still has its original cam chain. Recently it developed a slight rattle but upon removing the cam cover (spotlessly clean with no sludge) I found it was just a worn top guide which clips into the top of the cover. It was only £10 and around an hours DIY work. Even the rubber cam cover gaskets were still in good condition and perfectly reusable. I can't remember the reference number but I use a larger than standard oil filter. Only a guess but reckon this may have helped with longevity.
Good video.
The aluminium jigger you made to fit the bush in is called the knockEE and the tool you used to belt it in is called the knockER. Another very interesting video while having breaky.
Balance shaft delete, job done. Great video Matt
after trying a couple of cars without balance shafts i'm so happy i decided to put new ones in when i built my new b235 engine :)
Is there anything you can’t do? I’d be interested to hear your thoughts after driving it on the difference in NVH and HP. Had you done this to your last engine?
Very clever! No point in giving all that stuff a free ride. Must be quite a few kg (or lbs) saved there. Cheers
Great job well done. Didn’t you think it was advisable to make a couple of blanking plates to close off the holes left where the balance shafts were? Just wondering about the crank case pressure in the gallery ??
Great work there Matt, less rotating mass the better.. I'm doing a delete to my Duratec 2.3 it's way simpler with a $15 plug once the counter spinners unbolt lol
Nice work and interesting stroll around the Saab engine. When you go blocking oil galleries I get a pucker thinking of my Harley, almost every oil gallery is scavenged once or twice down the train. That also explains the cascading failures on my bike when something goes fail there are ensuing failures. Great video I love watching engine work, cheers and congrats on the growing subs!
PS; those balance shafts were quite hefty, does it make a lot of difference on power and smoothness?
Balance shafts can make a big 4 cylinder as smooth as a V6 for the same power. My 16v Volvo 2.3 was far better than my Audi V6 2.6
How did you get the cover off the side without damaging the head gasket? Super video also, thanks.
I am taking a 2 week vacation soon and was just getting ready to do a few routine maintenance things. Such as, water pump, timing chain, guides, the bullshit 😒. Lucky me haha great video man! Might toss the balance shaft delete idea around 🤔
That big shaft worked a treat
Life is a lot easier when you have a lathe to make auxiliary tools.
hmmmm , looking at the verry deep machined grooves in the balanceshafts theres a good change the the oilfeed to or from the heads goes through the bearing surfaces of the balance shafts , and plugging them up might starve the top end from oil or make the flow back of oil out of the head harder causing the sump to empty over time
you can still do the mod but instead of putting in pieces of pipe you make plugs with the groove in them out of cast iron (same material as the engine block so it expands and contract the same way as the block )
you can still install those like you did the pipe if you dril a hole in the center and make a drive in tool for it
seen those drive in tools being used for block mounted cambearings and usually the have an edge at the end of the cam that hits the engine block when the bearing is seated fully , takes the guesswork out of installng them
Yes I did comment on oil feed to the head ,this is common practice to meter the head with oil .
And the drillings often come from the main oil gallery via balance bearings and then up to the head .Paul .
A year ago, but very informative,
Thankyou buddy.
Just one question,
The parasitic power loss is the drag from the chain on the shafts,
Is their any reason why I could not
Just remove the chain, blank the tensioner, trim the lower guide,
But leave both balance shafts in place?
Would appreciate an answer,
Also worth noting their is a oil way that feeds into the main chain guide on the right which trickles oil onto the balance chain a lot of people plastic weld this up on the balance chain side to aid with oil pressure.
I've done this swap on a few b204 engines and it makes a massive difference to how quickly they rev. The shafts are about 2kg each so makes a huge difference to reducing rotation mass
Next tool purchase - Cheap inspection camera . Great vid thank you.
I was just looking and there are a lot of borescopes for reasonable price, just got to research how clear the resolution is.
Good evening young man. Which Gearbox do you use on the SAAB engine in the MK2 Escort? Is there a video of that building?
Very good channel you have here on YT. Best regards from Norway. Ivar
Have you considered dry sump but still using the original pump and a two stage scavenge pump?
Gawd it was after a few years i figured out there was a light on the end of some of those long reach magnets.
Great video ! I want to do this to my 2000 9-3 motor. With doing it the way you showed. I'm assuming since blocking the rear cam journal. I don't have to plug the #3 crank journal oil hole in the block. Do I have to pull the block to do this to remove that rear bearing that gets knocked out. Or can it be removed from inside the block. I've been reading about this awhile. Your way seems so much easier. 👍👍👍
Correcting engine with a claw hammer- there’s hope for me yet!😂
Every good mechanic's tool: a claw hammer 😁😉🤘
Looking forward to see the sump making :-)
Any chance sharing the sizes of those 4 plugs (rings)? Thanks in advance!
I second this question... 👀
43, 03-43,05 внутренняя, 44,03-44,05 внешняя.
Во внутренней отверстие под резьбу М8 или М10 для того что бы накрутить на длинную шпильку и установить. Можно перед установкой подержать в холодильнике.
Nice Job! Did you have a kit for sale?
Thank you
Nice job and it's reverible if ever needed. Thanks Matt.
Could the bearings be pulled and rotated and put back in? Essentially miss aligning the oil holes?
Had a daft idea for increased oil capacity that may or may not work as it's straight of the top of my head, tap holes in the pan sidewalls as close as possible to the bottom and add lengths of braided oil pipeline where there's clearance and have it loop back into the sump so you don't have to fabricate a whole new one???:)
You’re a bit of a clever lad hey.
Need to watch Marty T and his freezing strategies. Leave the sleeve in the freezer overnight and they practically slide straight in.
Are you sure Matt that the oil feed to the Head and cams doesn't come via the balance shaft drillings ????
Paul .
Careful when reinstalling the tensioner cover, I messed my head gasket up when doing this once
Is it a lot of extra work to also remove the sprocket (that drove balance axis) ?
Very good!
What’s it like if you just leave the shafts in?
Good work shag
Awesome 👍🏾😀 thanks good to know 🤙🏼
Hi great videos really interesting can you do the same for the b207 engine then
No u can't the Water pump goes on the balans chain
Do you sell these as a kit?
Have you thought about using an Harmonic Balancer pulley.
It should reduce the NVH from the engine!
Nice. ive got this to do for my e36 project!
Why did it have balance shafts ?
You won't be considering selling this as a delete kit? 😀
Is it the same on b234?
genuinesaab.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=875
Why it's a thing u really don't need
@@rasmusbengtsson2787 Don't need?
Still got the transit
Anyone know how far does one have to push the internal bearings over to plug the oil feed holes?
Just the width of the hole + some for safety
How can it run smoothly without the Balancer shafts?
It doesn't, but it doesnt run terrible either
@@someoneelse7629 engine becomes more efficient
Very ingesting, but not for me far too much hassle for a few BHP, get the same by winding the turbo up..... LAG
You need a taller engine stand.
Hi Matt
Dont now what to say
Mecanical IQ 1..........
The dumbest mood u can do makes no diffrines to take the chaft out exept u save 2kg of wight
Best delete is use a b206 block
Why not just dry sump it?
Cost
@@johnnytenjobs yeah for a pre made bespoke. This guy fabricates and engineers his own stuff. He needs a scavenge pump some pipes?
@@den2k286 Sure, but if he puts the tank in the boot its still a lot of plumbing and hardware. Compared to knocking up a decent sump with some baffles/flaps which he could do using a few bits of tin in a couple of hours. Don't get me wrong I fancied one but a special sump and pump from Pace was a lumpy price.
@@johnnytenjobs I understand the point on money but the sump he can fabricate with an integral the oil pick up pipe to the original pump. Then scavenge to a tank in the Engine bay. he can fabricate this too baffles and all. needs to be tall an slim. i just fear angle of attack for Engine is steep. will loose another bottom or have massive rear main seal and clutch issues.
I have done something similar to a pinto in a mk1 Escort in about 88 or 89. Any way i like his fabrication so lets see that cnc plasma do some work.
@@den2k286 I agree that it would be worth watching.
Leave the b/s in
Not always a good idea. The balance shaft bearings in my engine were really worn which reduced oil pressure by a good bit.
@@NorwayVFX thats why bearings need to be replaced and the oil valleys needs be ported/opened up more. Even parts of the oil pump as well need be cleaned and polished for smooth flow.
Keep oil at the bottom end vs. flooding the head.
Oil starvation due to a faulty sump whose design was likely a result of compensating for balance shafts. All in the name of comfort. Seems Saab should've engineered an entirely new, smoother running engine rather than add a system of counterweights. Maybe somebody can fill me in as I know nothing about manufacturing engines. Cheers.
I think he said in previous vid the sump was his own design to get it to fit in the escort.
@@recap5172 I missed that. Thanks.
@@recap5172 I thought he said the new one would be his own design. I think that the position of the pick-up tube was not realistic for the way the car was being driven. Too much oil sloshing about, leaving the pick-up to suck air.
@@imouse3246 no baffling, pick-up tube set too high, etc. Got it.
get a bore camera