Annual Service 2021 Part#10 Ferrari 360 Timing Belt Change

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  • Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
  • Timing Belt Change Materials and Torques
    All Parts supplied by Ferrparts
    Spark Plugs NGK PMR8B Qty 8
    Spark Plug Anti Seize Champion 2612
    Timing belts 2
    Alternator/Water pump belt 1
    A/C Belt 1
    Power Steering belt 1
    Cam Bearings From Hill Engineering 2 PT360
    Fly Wheel locking Tool 1 AV3207 Hill Engineering
    Cam Cover gaskets 2 and Sealant Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker
    Water pump Belt HZ 90-100
    A/C Belt HZ 131-145
    Power Steering Belt HZ 90 110
    Cam Belt HZ 190-220
    Gap Between Tensioner and Pulley 1.9 to 2.3 mm
    Timing Case Fasteners Torque 9.8 Nm ---87 in-lb
    Timing Belt Tensioner Torque 49 Nm ----434 in-lb ---37 ft-lb
    Crank Bolt 196 Nm ---144 ft-lb
    Spark Plugs 9.8 Nm ----87 in-lb

Комментарии • 22

  • @bhrmotorsport6809
    @bhrmotorsport6809 2 года назад +2

    Another interesting video. Thanks for the tip about Easy Tension. I replaced the alternator/water pump belt on my 360 last summer and I couldn't get the Gates application to work either. Actually wore a blister onto my thumb plucking the belts trying to get a read. Finally had to tension them the old fashioned way...."if you can only twist the belt by 1/8 to 1/4 turn at mid length then the tension must be close to factory spec".

    • @ferrarifxs
      @ferrarifxs  2 года назад

      Use the frequency portion of easy tension.

  • @ChadLPS
    @ChadLPS 2 года назад +1

    Awesome video very helpful thanks jeff!

  • @AntonioDetails
    @AntonioDetails 2 года назад +1

    Great job

  • @elitemechanics9382
    @elitemechanics9382 2 года назад +1

    Did you end up tackling your cam seals? Great video by the way excellent job!

    • @ferrarifxs
      @ferrarifxs  2 года назад +1

      No I didn't. They weren't leaking. It was the valve cover gaskets. Thanks for checking in and watching.

  • @larrystrouth4277
    @larrystrouth4277 2 года назад +1

    OK video ,it just would have been nice if you were to filmed actually putting the belt on ,I mean you get to that point and then bam the filming stops and then afterwards belt on it doesn't give us any ideal oh how hard it is to get it on that was what the whole video is supposed to be and you didn't film I just can't give you a thumbs upNow I'm not always lost you definitely pointed out some other good tips I just wish you wouldn't have left that out. But The Secret is to watch all your guys videos everybody and you can put it all together in your head. Thanks for the effort.

    • @ferrarifxs
      @ferrarifxs  2 года назад +2

      It's hard to film and do the work at the same time. With the tight area it also difficult to just set up the camera and film. You would probably see the back of me. Some of the jobs works best with 2 people and it becomes challenging at times. Thanks for watching

  • @ericg45
    @ericg45 Год назад +1

    Thanks for the video! I have my 360 F1 apart trying to rotate the crank by hand and realized it’s in 1st gear. Any idea how to shift the F1 to neutral without turning on ignition while the car is apart?

    • @ferrarifxs
      @ferrarifxs  Год назад +1

      You would have to take off the actuator. You should be able to reconnect the battery for a second to put it back into neutral. Just don't crank the motor

    • @ericg45
      @ericg45 Год назад +1

      @@ferrarifxs thanks so much for the quick reply! I’ll have to look to make sure the ignition on will be safe as I’m also in the middle of converting it to a gated 6-speed with the DR-S kit. Removing the actuator might be safer in this case. Will update here once I figure it out. Thanks again!

    • @ferrarifxs
      @ferrarifxs  Год назад

      If you take the actuator off you may need a tool for alignment purposes. Hill engineering sells it.

    • @ericg45
      @ericg45 Год назад +1

      I reconnected power to the battery, quickly turned on the ignition and dropped it into neutral. Easy! Thanks for your help!

    • @ferrarifxs
      @ferrarifxs  Год назад

      No problem any time. Good luck with your project

  • @tcrane
    @tcrane Год назад +1

    Is there anything tricky process wise to replacing the actual tensioners during this process? Do you happen to have the torque spec on the mounting bolts on the tensioners themselves?

    • @ferrarifxs
      @ferrarifxs  Год назад

      I believe it's in the notes at the bottom of the video for the torque specs. Also it's better to have 2 people when doing this. It helps to prevent over stretch of the belts.

    • @tcrane
      @tcrane Год назад

      @@ferrarifxs sorry, not the tensioner bearings, but I was referring to the actual tensioners themselves. My 360 has ~52k miles, so I'm toying with the idea of replacing the LH (which i'm not sure was ever upgraded yet anyway) and the RH with another OEM piece. Part numbers 202784 & 157356.
      Cheers

    • @ferrarifxs
      @ferrarifxs  Год назад

      With the milage your car has, I would probably change them out.

  • @TDRE88
    @TDRE88 4 месяца назад +1

    When cylinder 1 is at the top of the compression stroke both of the marks on the intake and exhaust cam should line up with the marks on the cam cover? I’m asking because the vice grip slipped while replacing the belts and I’m trying to get them back to where they should be. I can rotate the engine freely by hand still so I doubt it’s that far off. Thank you

    • @ferrarifxs
      @ferrarifxs  4 месяца назад

      I would always check the marks on the end of the cams. Not the marks on the gears where the belts ride. Those marks can be moved.

    • @ferrarifxs
      @ferrarifxs  4 месяца назад

      Also I would run the motor trough a few times to make sure everything is still on the marks.