How to Figure Out Front End Clunks and Knocks
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- Please comment, like, and subscribe! Thanks!
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Finally someone that gets right to the heart of the problem without giving their life history.
Robert Martin i agree with tou there... he got right to the point and made sense of it all. and already had it apart for us to see... good job to u sir!
+Robert Martin - It's all depend, sometimes it's good to hear a few things from People and sometimes you don't. When you in a Dark Moment of Life, you will view a perspective differently. Just like a piece of shit, it's
priceless to you, but not the the Flies :D. Maybe that's why they made the Fast-Forward Button :).
Hi
Right!! I hate when RUclipsrs drag shit out.
Yeh better than someone telling us about how their wife hit a pothole whilst taking the cat to the vet.
Quick and to the point with no BS etc... Thank you for your help, very much appreciated.
You're right. This man's the GOAT of: Getting _straight_ to the fckin point!
Now, my problem is... I don't _want_ to look. It's gonna be bad. On the brightside, we _know_ that it absolutely 100% is at _least_ one of these issues, maybe more? ffs. 😣
Appreciate it man. When I accelerate from a stop feels like my drivers suspension is going to fall apart. It lifts up higher than the passenger side with a loud clunk. Yours is the only video that helped out.
Thanks for not having an annoying intro. Straight to the point
Not far into your explanation, I started swearing like crazy because I finally came to the realization that after installing new upper and lower control arms in 2016, I greased the joints and one was leaking slightly. I didn't think much of it. Well, last year the clunking returned and I was distraught thinking that I would have to replace the whole strut assembly again. Watching your video (which was straightforward and incredibly helpful), I realized I probably only need to replace that stupid leaking ball joint. Thank you!!!
Btw, I'm in Michigan too!!
JillyBean860 glad I was able to help out!
JillyBean860 glad I was able to help 👍🏻
I gotta say....your video and explanations are absolutely on point! it couldn't have been any more simple and informative. thanks!
Thanks so much for the positive feedback!
I really appreciate that you bothered to make this video. I had some of the same ideas about the recent clunking in my car's front end, but didn't really have much of an idea of where to get started diagnosing the problem. I just replaced the drive axle this summer, with terrific results, but I was always aware that I might eventually discover that I left a bolt loose or something. Thanks to your easy-to-understand video, I feel totally confident in proceeding to figure it out. Thank you so much!! I have a brand-new impact wrench I'm dying to try out, anyway, ha ha!!
+randolph patterson Glad to hear it brother! Post back with results.
Helpful video I have 2004 Honda Accord with 195K miles just replaced front shocks & struts but still have the clonking noise.. sadly it’s difficult to find honest, reliable mechanic .. your video was very informative.. Thanks for sharing
Rita Cardenas glad I could help!
Just changed the Sway Bar Bushings on my 06 Chrysler 300 only after having the upper and lower control arms done. The Sway Bushings took care of the problem better than any of that other stuff! Of course it was the cheapest fix! About $100 bucks compared to 3-500 for the other control arms!! Glad I know now!
Great video. Nice overview and starting place in diagnosing. Married to a Michigander for 18 years. I'm always amazed at the roads when he head out there and visit. Thanks for posting.
The roads are HORRIBLE, joys of 160,000lb weight limit on trucks instead of 80,000 like every other state! Glad the vid was helpful
great shoutout for our crappy michigan roads! ;) just did the sway bars on my hubbys car and the left one had broken clean off from rust! he is still getting a clickety clack on that side so this gives me some ideas of what to check next
awesome vid. you hit the main culprits right on the money. sway bar link, tied rod, ball joint, strut/shock and mounts. don't forget sway bar bushings and cv joints.
This was an excellent demonstration of checking which suspension item is faulty :)
Thanks!
Good video!
Also it should be noted that in something with front wheel or 4/all wheel drive, clunking could also be the cv joints & not just tie rod ends, ball joints or sway bars & stabilizers. Also, I've seen rusted out strut housing-especially on Chrysler mini-vans that cause all manner of problems.
Awesome vid man. Been hearing mechanics talk all day about what could be wrong with my car and never understood a word they said... This gave me a rough idea. Thanks!
I have an 05' Chrysler town and country. I started hearing this knocking noise when I hit speed bumps, really any bump. but mostly on the front passenger side. no clue what it is, but I'll give this a shot. thanks a million
Typically ball joints.
Had this same problem with the rattle in the front tire. Took it to the shop and they said the sway bar end link, strut bar, and strut mount were bent and it would cost 600 bucks to fix.
Bought myself a strut bar for 80 bucks and replaced the old one. (nothing looked wrong with it though.) did a test drive and the rattle was worse, so i watched this video and decided to see if i shook the tire I could find it myself. Turned out the NUT ON TOP OF THE STRUT WAS LOOSE. thanks for the video!
Nice concise video, and the tip about grabbing the parts while someone else rocks it is a good one.
Clunks, especially those that sound like they are coming from right under the seat or floorboards could also be sway bar bushings. Those will wear out on on a little longer timeframe than the ones you mention but it happens. Also with the shocks and mounts those tend to sound like they are broken higher on the vehicle, almost like the clunk is coming from knee or even windshield level.
Right on
finally a clear video about this subject.
Glad it helped!
Years later this video is on point🔝🔥
If you can rock the tie rod fore and aft, by hand, that's a good indicator it's soon to be needing replaced. Sway bar bushings are also very common as they get brittle and sometimes end up falling out of their retainers or become so hard the sway bar vibrates over choppy bumps.
Here in 2024 trying to self diagnose my car anybody else 👀
Always. Managed to never use a mechanic in my life. It's amazing what people can learn to do themselves 😊
I got one for you that you missed, bottom shock mount that goes into your lower control arm mine spent when I got my new shocks and I didn't have the bushing to replace it and it makes a knocking sound all you have to do is grab the bottom shocking twist it back and forth and you'll hear it thanks for the heads up on the front end
Mine was the intermediate steering arm. Redistributed the grease and was fixed. I thought it was the shock since I had just replaced them. Easy fix. I'm waiting on the ball joints and sway bar now! 2005 Chevy Z71, 118000 mi
I just started having a pop or knock in my Explorer's front suspension, passenger side. I've replaced most of the front suspension since I got the vehicle -- wheel bearings, sway bar links, and over the weekend did upper control arms and outer tie rod ends, then had the shop align it and do lower ball joints (I could not get the steering knuckle unfused from the joint). The pop started the day after the work. Can get it to pop consistently by bouncing the front up and down from outside.
Fellow Michigander here. Potholeshave done a doosy on ny car last year. Have a car I only bought a year ago with clunking and squealing and grinding. Super helpful video. Thanks!
Glad I was able to help out. I like seeing and hearing about when women work on there own vehicles. Keep it up! :)
michigan man myself. thanks for the info and the story man. relatable.
+Daniel Lute Glad it helped neighbor!
I have a peugeot 206 2002 model , and it makes a continous knocking only when turning right over uneven surface . Even a smallest bump will trigger the knock and it vibrates through the steering wheel. The noise comes from the left only. It doesnt happen if i am breaking or accelarating, only rolling speed. It drives perfect and no clunking during al its pretty tight as i have done both the tie rod ends, both controll arms, both drop links and both the top and bottom engine mounts.
The amount of common sense thinking in this video lead to a like and sub.
Thanks for posting! Your video was concise and informative. Michigan roads SUCK!!!
ZJIGGA amen to that brother 👍🏻
Its the same in ontario. It gets hot and cold so quickly the roads fall apart.
I wanted to learn what a noise was and learned why the noise was. My Illinois roads suck, all our tax dollars go to gender reconcideration, what ever that is! Obama sucked Biden sucks! Put our money back into what it was designed to go into. This feels like taxation without representation, idc about other countries roads or there genders! Bring back Trump
Hey! You deserve quite the likes my friend thank you for this post! You saved me probably 4-5 hours of unnecessary searching!!
First thing I would check are the transmission and engine mounts. Those can wear out and make a clunking. Also check all of your fluid levels including the transfer case. Then check for slack in the u joints and cv axles. Miles? Also check if it has a slip yolk, that might need lubrication.
Just got new struts and the whole thing from new sway bars and new mounts and new control arms and the driver side clunks on these Michigan roads
Someone who made it simple to follow. Subbed!
super helpful video. I have a lound bumping when the car is driving and a clanking noise. drive lines and u joints were ruled out, so this video helped a ton to figure out what is what behind the wheel.
Thanks mate! I've noticed the sway bar bushings are worn out as well so might tackle that at the same time. The struts have 240,000KM on them (about 150,000mi) and don't believe they've ever been changed. Thanks again.
thanks man i just replaced my tie rod and like an idiot went and did some drifting in an icy parking lot and started hearing a clu-clunk clunk ... noise and my heart sank a bit and i went and looked at the lug nuts and low and behold im missing a lugnut and the others i can spin
Those are solid diagnosis tips.
Yeah I'm in northern New Jersey where most of the roads are crappy potholes, just recently I started hearing a knocking noise when going over bumps, I have a 2004 toyota celica....gunna check it out this weekend thinking probably ball joints.
Jr ALEXANDER
Yeah you're right, turns out I was way off...my dam O2 sensor managed to dislocate itself and had been dragging and smacking stuff everytime my car hit a bump...
Thanks, I think I know what's wrong with my van now. Very good, quick to the point video.
Glad I could help :)
Thank you brother for your explanation about how to detecto those problems
Great, concise, video. I have to do some diagnosis on my old Explorer tomorrow morning. Suspected tie rod, but you've given me a few more places to look. Thanks.
Hoping everything goes smoothly for you. Post back and let us know how it went.
SparkysGarage Good news. Was a broken sway bar. Our auto parts shops are closed today, but it'll be a fairly quick job for tomorrow.
spinny68 Simple fix, glad you found the problem!
I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6 thats making a metallic chunking sound while driving. I'm thinking it was the shocks but after your video I'll be checking everything. Thank you.
Best bet is to have someone rock it while you are looking for the source of the problem. Inner tierod's, sway bar bushing mounts, cv axles (if its 4x4), engine/trans mounts, and shocks are all possible culprits.
I need a good mechanic like you 👍🏼
this guy can save you money , he the real deal
Thanks! Glad the vid helps!
Great video with a concise explanation of all the major suspension components and where they are, thanks!
Glad the vid helps! :)
I have a front end grind on my 00 expedition I've had all tie end rods done and pitman arm and steering gear and also stabilizer bars and still grinds at 50 mph and up help!!!
Thanks. I just got an alignment after replacing the tie rods but no change. Turns out the Cougar doesn't have a camber adjustment, only toe on the front and rear. I think next I'm going to do the ball joints. Probably upper and lower control arms. If that doesn't fix it I'm wondering about the "control" mechanism in the upper part of the rack. Isn't there a valve in there that directs hydraulic pressure left or right? I wonder if that valve could stick and cause this type of symptom.
Could be a number of things. If it is a up and down wobble like a bouncing then it is probably bad shocks. If it is a shimmer type wobble from left to right it might need the tires/wheels balanced. If it is a violent shaking then it is probably a bad wheel bearing or bent axle shaft. Could be a problem with the differential as well. Hard to tell, can you describe it better? What speeds does it occur? Is it still driveable?
Rhode Island roads are even worse, I can almost guarantee it haha good video and info brotha
SERIUS401glad you like the vid man👍🏻
We had a Jeep Grand Cherokee that did this. It was the brake caliper. IDK what it was doing as far as the noise it made. It didn't affect the driving any at all and it didn't do it all the time either. Just something else to check out.
Thanks for the info... I've had my car worked on and my struts have been changed the bubbly knocking sound went away for about 2 months then started again, now I know what to try and look for. Thanks again!
Great video, no nonsense and straight to the point! Excellent! You gained another subscriber :)
shaking up and down for the joints as u said..and u can shake left and right to see if a tie rod end is bad...it's bad if u get extra play shaking left and right... not what I was looking for but Great vid none the less. it's appreciated
I just replaced the inner and outer tie rod ends on a 97 Mercury Cougar but the symptom I was hoping it would correct hasn't gone away. After turning a corner (either right or left) and then straightening out, it wants to continue pulling in the direction of the turn I just made and will continue pulling for several hunded feet and then suddenly "let go" and steer perfectly straight with no effort.
Thanks for this video, I thinks it's pretty obvious, that when u look on these parts and notice any wear and tears. A signal that it's time for replacement. Again though, thanks for this info. I'm having this knocks and clunking sound on my 98 sienna. I will check it out.
Wall E Clunking sound on my 2000 Sienna was caused by the front sway bar links.
Your video is one of the better in the web. Very Clear. I have a question regaridng this. When I turn the weels I herad a noise (clank!) and, over the last weeks a feel a smel like burn rubber. This could be related to CV joint or similar problem? Thanks PD (buick pacific 2002)
The weight displacement of the vehicle changes what part of the suspension is being used. Try to recreate the noise with someones help while you try and find the source of the problem. Push, pull, bounce, pry, hammer, do whatever you need to do to try and find where the clunking is coming from.
oh man thanks a million for the walk through!
I like the video I'm goin to try it on my day off. I have an 07 tundra and it makes a popping noise when I turn left or right. But only goin slow. I'm thinking Its my rack & pinion. But don't know for sure. I'm hoping the test you showed will help me determine what it is
Glad I was able to help out.
Really awesome Vid. like other viewers commented,straight to the heart of the problem. This helped me, to solve my front end knock. Thanks for posting
Glad it helped!
Thanks a lot people. I am experiencing a similar problem with my car and I get this sound on my right from wheel. The sound comes out most of the time when I am reversing and doing a full turn to the left and also when I drive in graveled roads.
Baghali Mathapa Hopefully the vid can help you narrow down the problem. It is usually hard to find when it is an occasional or intermittent problem.
Thanks for adding the comment. I forgot to mention that but I think my brain was in "wear and tear" mode, not so much looking for loose parts. Thanks again!
I live in Missouri, have a 97 4x4 ranger that eats ball joints for breakfast. Dirt roads beat a truck to pieces.
Thoughts about a front end clunk you can feel in the floor, but not at all in the steering wheel?
another thing you can do to check for play in the ball joints is the jack up the car/truck just so the wheel is off the ground, and use a pry bar under the tire and lift up on it.. if there is play there, then you know you have a bad ball joint usually... for TR ends, I find that the 9 and 3 wiggle on the tire is a great starting point... but your detail on inspection is even better... finding the problem is usually 75% of the solution :-)... BTW what car/truck was this? - thanks
_I'm more surprised in the good video quality for over a decade old video👀_
Gopro!
There is a valve but I don't think that would be the problem. Are you sure the alignment shop is reputable? Did you ask if they could do a rear wheel alignment too? Some cars can't and some can have them done
bought a used passat and started get some noise from the front end and it got worse in under 3 days. went to pull front tires off for inspection and the lugs were only hand tight. snuged them up issue resolved
This video does apply if you have a 2wd tracker. No special tools really other than maybe a pickle fork if you need to replace the ball joint. Then a ball joint press. Both you should be able to borrow for free from your local auto parts store.
Also heard of brakes causing clunk noises too. I guess the shim or clip holding the pad in breaks and it's just slapping around inside the caliper.
Super-helpful--excellent overview....
Thanks! Good visuals and descriptions to help identify front-end components.
Myy car had bad drive axle's and also bad struts. I had to replace the axles today. Now there is a clunk/creak when making quick turns and over bumps (not every time). the shop also replaces the bearings and hubs. The shop told us we might hear a sound that is worn out struts. it didn't make this sound before the repairs. Is it possible something wasn't put together right? Or is it likely my struts, like they said?
Yes, it is. But to tell the truth it seems to be coming from the tire itself. Being all 4 are old and need replacing, I wouldn't be surprised if the tire is the problem. It feels almost exactly like a flat, but the tire isn't even low on air. Thanks for your reply!
I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 with 50K+ miles. I live in South Florida so there's pot holes and salty air. Those are my conditions. I'm getting a pop/knock sound when I turn my wheels, full turns either way, when backing out of a parking or pulling out of a parking spot. Only at slow speeds.
Great video! Also, CV joint/Axles gone bad can make clunking noises over bumps at low speeds. Ive gone through a couple CV axles being lowered
ford fusion 2010
I am actually from alpena found it kinda funny hearing someone talk about the bad roads. But I have a 95 Tahoe and I get a clunking noise on the drivers side front wheel when it's rolling. It kinda loud and I don't feel anything in the steering wheel. Doesn't change when I turn the wheel or anything. Just clunks whenever the front wheel rolls.
A rotational clunking? Or do you mean when it rolls from side to side? Like body roll
When the wheel rolls forward or backwards. It sounds like clunk, clunk.... Clunk, clunk.... Then as I go faster it's just clunk over and over
Check your caliper to make sure the bolts are tight. Also check your brake pads and rotors. Could be a wheel bearing as well. If its 4x4 then check the axle shafts as well.
I've just had my suspension replaced with all the other related parts and it still clunkw when going over bumpy road surfaces. I'm thinking it could be a loose fender or the a bolt at the very top of the strut. But if the struts and shocks are all new it'd be a hell of a coincidence. Or it could also be a loose turn signal or radiator. The alignment was and is still off and the wheel is jerky to turn and is more difficult than usual. Or sometimes, it's too easy to turn. Steering fluid is all good.
Try having someone rock the vehicle while you have the hood open. Maybe you can pinpoint it
Thanks for getting straight to the good parts. So sick of 3 minute intros to a DIY vid...lol
Thank You..that was a big help..And I will now take look at my truck.Thank,s
+dan sorrell Glad i was able to help.
I drive a 2005 lexus is 300 and I had a really annoying clunking sound coming from passenger front and I couldn't find anything but I figured it out it was the sway bar I knocked with a hammer and the clunk is gone
XxXFEARXTHEXFUTURE I have an 04 is300 with the same problem, thanks for the info!
XxXFEARXTHEXFUTURE was the clicking only when you went over potholes ?
Jon Brock that's what mine is doing right now. Just when I go over bumps it rattles a lot. Pretty sure mine is my lower ball joint assembly
Stanger Danger that's my problem. what could that be?
Same w my is300 I'm hearing some clunk sound mostly from rear passenger
There is a good possibility that it could be the CV joints. Just keep looking at all the suspension ad steering components and you should be able to figure it out.
Good meat and potatoes vid. Check those motor mounts, too!
Thank you
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to make it. Merica!
Merica!
thanks for sharing the straight to the point video, i have 2003 s10 2 wheel with 88,088 miles and i have a clunking/rattling noise on passenger side front and when i push on the brakes the noise/clunk gets quieter but is still loud enough to hear..i checked caliper/pads, balljoints, tie rods-bushings-control arm & bushings and cannot find the clunk/rattle..any suggestions-info would be appreciated..thanks
Wheel bearings
Because I was shooting a video on a bunch of possibilities... Not just replacing what I knew was wrong with the truck.
I was thinking my mechanic ripping me off because after 3 motor mount was replaced. Then one day later when apply to the brakes in two second when stop it makes clunking noise on driver side. My mechanic calms it the links and struts. What is your input on this issue?
I just changed my front disc brakes on my 2005 silverado the old pads were grinding my rotors so now I have to have them turned also my driver front rotors moves in and outward with ease. The truck pulsates when coming to a stop and makes grinding noises when I turn the wheels while driving it. I thing the wheel hub is bad
awesom trick with the needle!!
by turning i am emphasizing on turning to left or right.. it will be hell to turn on a very small round about or tight corner or tight space..
Good video. Very helpful. Thank you
Thank u so much for this beneficial video!
Would u happen to know how much each repair/part wld cost? I know u has stated that there is 4 to 5 different reasons as to why he car may be clunking and knocking I have an 05 Ford Escape and been having this issue since I bought this car. Please help with an information u might have.
Thank you!
Prisma A it can very. Most of the parts you can find prices for on the internet. Tierod ends $20 each. Ball joints/control arms $30-$200 a set. Wheel bearings run $20-$60 a set. Plus alignments and labor.
Glad you found the problem, thanks for posting back. :)
great suggestions.
I always make it a habit to get under my vehicle and get my buddies to rock the vehicle back and forth on thin jacks.
😂 Thought I was the only one thinking that sounded like the opposite of a good idea.
i was having cluking coming out of my front end and i checked every thing out all my bushings ball joints shit like that were fine what i found is that the sub frame connecting bolt head snapped off. i started searching challenger web sights and found alot of people having this issue. behind the tire theres a peice of tape like substance glued over a body access hole that tape falls off and moisture gets in, travels down the bolt and rots the bolt as well as sub frame from inside. its not just challengers also chargers magnums on lady even said her van had this problem. if your sub frame is rotting the thru bolt has two sets of threads on them the bolt is like 8 inches long and near the head of bolt are threads that are supposed to thread to sub frame. now with head snapped off i was working on ways to get that bolt out cause dodge will tell you you need a new subframe (engine cradle) cause threads are stripped. or they wont tell you and change bolt that might last a while but without those bottom threads,the bolt is helpless. in this video i can see the bolt on the side hes working on but could be the other side. on my car its the passenger side thats bad but when im driving it sounds like the drivers side. so im working on three different ways of fixing this problem without changing sub frame dodge will charge u thousands.a new cradle five fifty to seven hundred dollars. n then u better hope u got the right one. the first thing i will do is try to drill a hole in the bolt ane use a e-z out type bolt remover also lubercate the top of bolt thru the window behind wheel. if that dont work i will see if theres a reverse tap and bolt that i can tap in and since its reverse as i tighten tapped bolt it should loosen frame bolt. next i will cut the window open to get to nut which has a locking washer on it (not a lock washer) i had to stick my camera in the hand hole n take photos to see in there. now if the threads on the bottom are stripped i will try to weld the washer that comes with the bolt on to the bolt then weld the washer to the body after in stalling it. i might just skip all that and weld the sub frame to the frame. but that bolt will still be in there dangling around. i dont think it will make much noise if the frame is not bouncing around. if anybody is having this problem contact the national highway traffic safety administration 1-888-327-4236 they are in charge of recalls. most times you have to change the engine cradle due to accidents and they got bent. most likely this is what caused your accident.