Nylock Mod on my Sovol SV06 to get a better bedmesh with Klipper
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- Опубликовано: 4 сен 2024
- Here is my method using nylon washers and lock nuts to resolve bed level issues with my Sovol SV06. I used the stock screws that came with the SV06 for this. All I purchased were the washers and nuts. Happy Printing!
My Klipper Config with Macros:
drive.google.c...
My PrusaSlicer Config:
drive.google.c...
Sovol Bed Plate STL and PNG for PrusaSlicer
drive.google.c...
Sovol Links:
SV06 All Metal Hotend Planetary Direct Drive 3D Printer Auto Leveling PEI Plate 32 Bit Silent Board Fully Open Source - sovol3d.com/pr...
Sovol SV06 3D Printer Open Source with All Metal Hotend Planetary Dual Gear Direct Drive Extruder 25-Point Auto Leveling PEI Build Plate 32 Bit Silent Board Printing Size 8.66x8.66x9.84 inch - www.amazon.com...
Other Places to find me:
Facebook - / room281tech
This is incredible. I was about to make the silicone hose mod, but its not so precise ( if you dont cut right).
This was awesome man!!! Thank you for the video. I have 3 SV06's that all have the front left issue. This has fixed it!
For anyone doing this, I've noticed that if you get the PROBE as close to the screws as possible, rather than the nozzle, you tend to get better results, or at least, I do personally. The following will get the probe pretty close to the screws:
screw1: 84.5, 135
screw1_name: center
screw2: 0, 49.5
screw2_name: front left
screw3: 169.75, 49.5
screw3_name: front right
screw4: 169.75, 219.5
screw4_name: back right
screw5: 0, 219.5
screw5_name: back left
The klipper docs state to have the hotend over the screws. Not sure what their reasoning is, but if you get better results, then cool. When I started this klipper journey, I had a lot of issues with bed mesh and 1st layer print quality, which is where i formed the suspicion that the induction probe is not very good or it needs to be adjusted. If you touch the tip of your hotend nozzle tip to your buildplate, the induction probe should be sitting 2-3mm off the build plate. Perhaps that was affecting the results.
Am I insane, stupid, or both? This ONE post, on ALL of the fkcing INTERNET, seems to be the only one with coordinates for the screws on the sv06 buildplate. like, I've been researching for about 14hrs today, including trying ChatGpt to help, and NOTHING (EXCEPT FOR THIS ONE POST) says fkvc all about the screw coordinates.
OK, HAVE AT ME, chat. tell me all the ways in which I could have found this out SO EASILY. At least then I might learn something other than how to fix [INSERT LITERALLY ANY OTHER PROBLEM WITH LITERALLY ANY OTHER SOVOL PRINTER, KFCUING LITERALLY EVER]
What i've done is double up the thumb nuts, i made really super thin ones. Springs gone. One thumb nut above the bed carrier, one below on each screw. Normal nuts just below the bed. Adjustable and locks by jamming tight.
Just remember the beds are very thin and prone to warping so even if you get absolutely all the bed mounts to be level to each other you cannot control what that bed does while heated. You also need to tweak your bed mesh values and predictive values.
Have this issue on mine, they sent me a new bed, got a Bambu right after, and havent even messed w it, but plan on getting it running right soon-ish
Klipper makes it much easier to see how warped the bed is, although the inductive sensing isn't very accurate, even when averaging three samples per position. Try repeating the mesh leveling without making any adjustments to see how much variation there is from one mesh level to the next.
I'm waiting for Sovol to introduce their next printer which I hope will be a Klipper version of the SV06+ with better part cooling... or maybe Elegoo will introduce a plus size version of their Neptune 4 Pro with WiFi. I like my old SV01 workhorse so much that I'm tempted to put Klipper on it and make a curtain part cooler that mounts on the back of the gantry.
Their inductive coil isn't very impressive. Eventually I'll install a superpinda, direct plug in, no modding necessary
@@room281tech8 - No doubt Sovol used the least expensive inductive prox switch they could find. A better quality prox switch would almost certainly be a good upgrade for more accurate bed leveling, however, I'm not a fan of inductive sensors for bed leveling. It would be much better to measure the contact directly to avoid the inherent inaccuracies of inductive sensing. I like the concept of pressing a heated nozzle into a heated bed and sensing force at the bed mounting, but that can put small divots in a PEI print surface. I print a lot of TPU on textured glass and force sensing contact would work very well for that, but almost everyone is using a magnetic PEI build surface these days. The BL Touch would be a more universal solution but I don't care for the mechanical complexity.
I think manufacturers of low cost 3D printers are relying too much on mesh bed leveling to compensate for warped beds that aren't level. Mesh leveling works best when compensating for a small warping in a fairly flat and level bed. They could probably devise a clever solution using finite element analysis to design a bed that warps a minimal amount when heated, and by engineering a bed mounting solution to minimize warping.
@@Liberty4Ever Agreed I really hope Sovol releases an SV08 that has the software of the SV07 with the hardware of the SV06. That would be a real winner!
@@802Garage - If the SV08 was the hardware of the SV06 with the firmware of the SV07, it would basically be an Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro with WiFi. 🙂
Awesome video!! What size lock nuts and nylon washers did you use? I'm thinking of doing this to my SV06 because I also have a pretty bad warped bed that the problem. The probe doesn't really do a good job to compensate for the warped bed.
I used M4 nylon lock nuts and I just hand picked some nylon washers that worked. I personally couldn't get the bed mesh to make a good print when I would do a bed sized first layer printer calibration. I could never find that sweet spot. I was always too high or too low.
I did come up with another method that also really helps the prints. I do a fast bedmesh before each print and it only creates a mesh where you are going to print. I'll be doing another video where I share my klipper and slicer settings with my macros.
Hey there. I followed your steps and put the BED_SCREWS and BED_SCREWS_ADJUST code in my printer.cfg. However when I do the SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE command I notice something. The nozzle moves above the 5 screws and it does the calculations from where the nozzle is instead of where the bed probe sensor is. So my calculations are based from probes that aren`t measured from the screws. Do you know how I could fix this?
So I set it up per the Klipper online doc. It states, "The secret to getting good bed leveling with bed leveling screws is to utilize the printer's high precision motion system during the bed leveling process itself. This is done by commanding the nozzle to a position near each bed screw and then adjusting that screw until the bed is a set distance from the nozzle." Which is what we have here.
However, I suppose if you wanted to have the induction coil over the bedscrews, you would just go in the printer.cfg and change the coordinates. Let me know if your results are better, worse, or the same.
Here is the link to the Klipper info: www.klipper3d.org/Manual_Level.html
Silicon mode from prusa printers is way easier imo. Just replace this metal washers with silicone ones and then just tight the screws right. Also, just curious what max flow you are using and which speed are you printing at? I'm one the CHT clone nozzle, and get around 18mm^3 of flow and 100-120mm/s of stable speed with 0.6 nozzle.
From side to side just level the gantry. The auto level doesn't work super well when it is way out.
That's basically correct. The caveat is I only have these issues when I ran Klipper on that printer. My build plate seemed to be fine in some areas and too far out of range in others and the auto level couldn't compensate for the "extreme" change in surface offset. This helped this printer. I have another SV06 that works without this mod. However, I will be applying this mod to that printer as well because there is room for improvement.
Stupid question here... if the screws are tightened down to the bed enough with the nylon locking nuts, how do you secure it back to the bed platform? I haven't taken mine apart yet, so it's not apparent. Just wanna get my ducks in a row prior to disassembly.
Once the locking nuts are attached to the screws on the buildplate, you just line up screws with the holes in the build frame the build plate attaches to and screw them in. The screws are basically fixed to the build plate so tightening/loosening the screw moves the plate up and down. I hope that helped. I just went throught the video trying to find where I did that and I realized I edited it out for speed. I have another one of these printers that needs it done. I've just been slammed this last two months, such is life. I'll try and get an update to this video during the holiday weekend.
@@room281tech8 Thanks for the explanation! Now that tells me how tight to make the nuts. Makes perfect sense.
@room281tech8 bro!!! after less than 30 mins from start to end, .0844 variance! Thanks for this video, and the contribution to the SV06 community.
Does Klipper help with bed leveling? I cannot seem to get a good bed level with my SV06+ on marlin firmware. Although I have done the silicone bed mod and I got every thing down pretty close, yet I can barely print on quarter of bed.
I think Klipper gives you more tools to diagnose what your issue is. I haven't used the silicon mod as it didn't seem as precise. If you follow the procedure outlined in the video you should get fairly close to optimal. The screws_tilt_adjust command combined with the nylock mod is pretty awesome. I just used it on two different sv06 printers this last week with great results. Look up bassamanator on github. He has everything needed to get your printer setup on klipper. I also did a klipper setup video and there should be another video coming later on this week with this as well, kind of an update or supplemental.
@@room281tech8 Yeah the silicone bed mod doesn't seem to be working well for me at all. Where did you get the nylon washers and nuts from?
@@mobloeescobar4203 I just sourced them local at the hardware store. You just need nylon locking nuts and nylon washers. I ended up reusing the screws I had but you can always grab longer ones. I think they are M4 screws.
This was a cool video, and great idea. I think it's the same size bed as an ender, so why wouldn't someone just use yellow springs and wheels if it is this out of spec? That and a good straight edge should get you close as well, right? I think those kits are like 10-15 bucks.
They wouldn't work on this bed design. It would cool if they did but it becomes an interference issue.
@@room281tech8 i looked underneath and it looks like my ender. are you saying interference because it would put the bed too high?
mine is .20 to .26 high along the back, and my prints are excellent but I personally don't like it that high.
@@CuttinInIdaho I was thinking the fine tuning knobs that sit on the 4 corners of the bed. The ones Ive seen looked like they would stick too far out and make contact with the gantry. Maybe we are thinking about two separate things or a different version. If you got a link to what you're thinking I would try and make it work. It would be much more elegant approach. I got to do another one of these printers with the nylock mod soon.
@@room281tech8 I solved it today by going to the hardware store. I bought 4 M4x25 machine screws with tapered heads, 8 m4 .5mm washers and 8 small rubber washers. the rubber is neoprene and working life rated to 250f which wont reach that because they are at the bottom of the screws. The rubber washers are for a bit of squish adjustment.
I put the screws into my bed, slid the spacers on under the bed, put one .5mm washer and one rubber washer at the bottom. this way, the rubber washer holds the .5mm washer and the aluminum sleeve from sliding off. the rubber washer was 3/16ths I believe, and the screw fit snuggly into the center.
i then leveled my bed and took note of the corners that were bad and adjusted the screws accordingly. I was off by 0.53 along the left side and left rear row. 0.07 on the front right.
after a couple adjustments, I am no more than .13 off of any other measurement. I do expect the neoprene washers to hold up because steel is a poor conductor and by the time the 100c bed heats them up, even if they were copper, they won't exceed their working rating.
I bought 8 of each washer to have enough to account for finer tuning the bed, but didn't need all of them.
I also think someone can get a wheel kit to work on these too so I am going to order a set just to see, but I will leave this printer as is to test how long this holds up.
I did this mod as well and it definitely helped. I am still having consistent issues where the right side still seems to be too high even after this mod and replacing the lead screw couplers with spider couplers. Have you checked your frame for sqaure? I'm literally going through that process while I watch this video.
I was having the same issue with mine which lead me down the road to the nylock method. Basically I was having issues at the edges and especially the corners. I could never find that sweet spot before this mod. I have squared the frame, calibrated the X axis on both sides of the gantry, and performed this mod. That got me really close. The final thing that helped me out was setting up a fast bed mesh before each print only calibrating in the area it was going to print. I feel that has gotten me the closest to my goal of an amazing print. I will be sharing my macros, configs, and slicer settings next week. I've just been crazy busy and its been hard to find the time.
@@room281tech8 I think there's still something going on with mine. Even within a 100x100 area in the center of the bed there's still some significant issues. One of the couplers from the factory failed during a gantry align and I caught it before it did any catastrophic damage but I think it might have done some damage that may be related. Both of my lead screws have significant bends. I did the bearing mod for the lead screws that you showed in one of your videos but have since removed them because I'm concerned about the new spider couplings not being able to compensate for the bends. As of last night I had a somewhat decent first layer with no bed meshing, and as soon as I added the bed mesh it starte dragging ont the left side of the prints. I'm at a point where I wish I had just bought an Ender 3 and upgraded it rather than having to replace parts on this in hopes of it working the way it's supposed to. This is my first printer so I ams certain that there is much that I don't know but so far it hasn't been a great first experience for me.
@@ptivnan So I found this part on printables ( www.printables.com/model/444122-z-axis-mod-for-sovol-sv06 ) that may help with your bent screws and possibly improve some problem areas. Also check those mounts where your motors connect to. I replaced my z-axis gantry motor mounts. The injected molding was warped. Luckily I had another printer to make those parts. Also some of the printers have a bit of twist to them. Here is another link that can help with that. ( www.printables.com/model/433884-sovol-sv06-x-twist-fix-top-bar-upgrade ). If you want to post some pictures of your bed mesh to my facebook page, I'll take a look. Im curious to see what you are working with.
@@room281tech8 Thanks! I'll take a look at both of these mods. I had been reading about differnet mods for fixing lead screw wobble and that first one might do the trick. I'll check out the second one as well. It's funny because last night I actually downloaded the official STEP files and modified the top Z axis brackets to allow a longer lead screw to pass through. The official ones are like 376mm long but I couldn't find those only so I ordered a couple new 400mm lead screws and figured that might be simplest option to get them installed when they arrive. I'm close to getting an acceptable level of quality which I'll be taking advantage of to print all these parts in hopes of improving the repeatability. I'd love to get some aluminum motor brackets but hopefully printing new ones will help. I'll follow up here if I make progress, hopefully my experience can help people because it is really trying my patience.
@@ptivnan This printer is rough. It's been a journey for me as well. Another issue that I just fixed is the cooling issue. The stock 4010 part fan just can't hang in there. I swapped out to a 5015. I feel like I've pretty much swapped or replaced a lot on here to get it normal. The motor mounts I used were beefy ( www.printables.com/model/368386-z-motor-mount-for-sv06-squareness-rigdity ). I used petg 100% infill. Very strong. Aluminum would be cool but these were impressively strong. Good luck. Once you get it dialed in these really do print nice. So my list so far that I've replaced, all bearings, motor mounts, parts fan, nylock bed mods, and reinforced bed wiring. Then I had to repair an idler pulley, tighten the drive pulleys, also had to tighten down the extruder gear(stopped feeding, had to do this 2x) and lubricate the planetary gears. Most was fairly cheap fixes, but wow did it feel like a lot of stuff. So I get it. Please share your modified part on printables.
Same here!!!! Left side is down so much more. Do you think a bl touch/cl touch would could be good instead of induction probe?
I've thought about doing that because I would really like to use some G10 as my print surface. I'm also now seeing that my induction probe is not very good. It is having a lot of issues. It just isn't sensitive enough. My guess is that it is poor quality. Maybe I should do a BL or CR touch video in the future. I'll need to find one at a reasonable price. Right now I am thinking about using a FYSETC Pinda probe replacement which is what comes on the Prusa Mini which is direct replacement for the Sovol.
@@room281tech8 I would do that pinda probe, I plan on doing something like that also. Sovol is a great company to deal with, but honestly.. they are like creality or any of the other brands. They are not geared for quality. They are about CHEAP.. and that is it. Slow down, charge a lil more.. and produce a REAL product, not a cobbled together bunch of parts we have to sort out. I am on a mission to get people to wake up and demand better from the 3D printing industry. Save for a P1P btw. You will be blown away.
Why heat up the extruder for ABL?
Not necessary. I think people do it out of 'habit'?
Maybe so. I try to calibrate everything at operational temps for consistency. Everything expands and contracts, consistency helps me achieve repeatability in print quality
@@room281tech8 The abl isn't anywhere near the hot nozzle
@@Piccyman1 whether it does or doesn't, it seems rather trivial and benign . The only real victim here is the power bill lol
@@Piccyman1 - The bed is heated before calibration and leveling because the bed expands and warps when it is heated. It should be measured in the shape it assumes when heated because that's when it prints the critical first layer.
the sv06plus dont have this issue
Are you running klipper or octoprint? Have you taken a bed mesh yet. Basically if you're printing in small areas you will probably be fine. However when you print something like this, www.printables.com/model/445074-sv06-detailed-level-test .....that requires the full size of your build plate, you will see inconsistencies within the first layer. Some will be too high, others too close ....and then you'll get those Goldilocks layers. After some of the forum posts on the SV06+ I've seen. If your print comes out amazing, consider yourself lucky because you got one of the good printers.