I have owned the Tenlog TL-D3 pro for almost a year now. It is IDEX as well and honestly I like it. It has brushes on the side when parked the nozzle goes past and it sweeps the drips off. You can add a small extrude code in Cura for when it switches extruders and it will prime the hotend before printing. You are left with small strings of plastic on the sides of the printer after each print but it is significantly less plastic than a prime tower generates and amazingly efficient. When I saw this technology come out I knew it was the right direction for 3D multi color because it eliminates so many issues the other options have. I have tried all of the other options until I bought this machine and was not happy with any of them. This machine is great and pretty much does what I need. I love the mirroring and duplicating options to print more than one at a time on each half of the bed. It does speed things up if you use it when needed.
This came out at the exact right time. I let the smoke out of my main board on Friday, and the replacement can support dual hotends, so I'd intended to implement a "DDEX" design. That doesn't seem to be a thing anyone actually, like, /does/, so I was struggling to find information about the potential issues and solutions involved in such a setup. Even though this video is about an IDEX, it has a lot of the information I was looking for.
I've had this printer since mid-June and it was honestly the best possible printer for the price. Sure, it might be a hefty size, but it's got a 300x300x400 buildspace. When matched with IDEX, it's a much better deal than a prusa mini for the same price if you're willing to set it up (coming from personal experience)
It would be interesting to see 2023 (or soon 2024) low-cost IDEX: better extruders and hotends, assisted tramming, strain gauge Z-offset + assisted height adjustment for second extruder (if both nozzles can reach the same spot, while the other is off-bed), X motors at back to better use all over width for movement, higher speed, input shaping. A bit like cross between Ender 3 V3 SE/KE and Snapmaker J1 :)
Just got my Sovol SV04 and only printed the test cubes which came out great. Sovol has a new leveling procedure that I think is more straight forward. Had to go out of town but looking forward to printing the combs. I had originally purchased the Tronxy IDEX printer, and had to return doesn't even compare plus it was used. Don't waist you $ on this on Tronxy. Great review can't wait to get back to mine.....
I have this printer. It's taken a lot of massaging to get it to reliably print on the primary extruder. It prints pretty well. The second extruder has been a nightmare. I ended up having to mount the filament sensor directly to the top rail, the default mounting position can introduce a ton of strain on the filament causing it to snap, and print arms for the hot end cabling as they would frequently dip below the level of the print head mid print. I also swapped the included print surface for a textured PEI one. That being said, even as a single extruder printer it was worth the price. Getting it working with prusaslicer was a whole other struggle. Sovol's software support is... not good. The outright refuse to release the source code for the display.
@@LostInTech3D I have given up trying to get Cura and PrusaSlicer working. In theory, they should work, but I just can’t get the extrusion working right. Under-extrusion and a very crappy print, or over-extrusion and extra material embedded everywhere. The provided Cura variant also isn’t doing a great job, so I have a small bucket’s worth of calibration cubes and Benchies with various failures. Frustrating, as I understand the theory and it *should* be working correctly. 😾 (The machine works well mechanically, and the pre-sliced two-colour stuff does print well. I just can’t get stuff I slice myself to do so.)
I got convinced to buy one due to all of its features. Waiting now on delivery. After your video, I’m even more glad that I did. And it is currently on sale for $320. SCORE!!
@@LostInTech3D NOW they are telling me to expect it tomorrow afternoon.That time is only TWO days from order!! IF it only cost $2.00 I would accept the total disregard for my delayed gratification of 3-7 days. HARUMPH!! I may not even have time to move my Ender 3 off the "Enclosure" table to the dresser top to make room for the Sovol. That's encroaching on my well deserved Retired Lazy Arsefardle time!!! 😆 Thanks partner. Keep up the vids as long as you can. They are appreciated. 👍
I feel like would be awesome for printing soluble supports with PVA. Also the copy feature is really cool, i dont think there are lot of use cases for it, but its nice that they added it. If it works with different size nozzles then i can definitely see myself using one of these.
this is a machine I have been thinking about for some time now, I wanted to get the ratrig V cast but thats now discontinued, this is something that is still on my radar, and I dont have to build it from scratch either.
This printers are just WONDERFUL to print figures in PLA and supports in PETG as they don’t adhere, so you can print with zero gap the support interfaces
I bought this model February iof this year and FINALLY got it fully calibrated four days ago. It was defuinately a struggle that is worth it for the water soluable support filaments making mask prints superior to the break-away supports.
I've had a Tenlog Hands 2 since last Nov. Full independent heads on separate belts. I didn't have to do much tuning - it had manual bed levelling and then offset for RH nozzle, and the test piece printed pretty accurately, so the next print was a 2 colour Muzz64 Sharkz, which turned out fine with the colour joints wiggly. Unfortunately since then I haven't got round to what I bought it for - printing with soluble supports. Oh well, eventually.... I wait with interest for your video on design for 2 colour - I've made 2 colour brackets for corners of a metal frame purely so I can see how well joined the bits are, but I'd like to do more. Thanks for the review
I designed a semi-parking extruder for my old Tronxy X8. I am currently in the process of doing the same for the Ender 5. In general, if you have a bed slinger, Idex or parking is the way to go. If you got any kind of cube printer, parking is the only way to go.
SHOOT! . I saw the box. Cant wait for xmas . Gad, that Artist-d, it was the worst. You are the fav 3dprinter RUclipsr.. so glad you got one to hear you talk about it! Hopefully this will be my first, (fourth lol) where I can use prusa and cura and others with somewhat ease. Because when each one has a new feature release, it is, of course; I need that. Now!
I've had my SV04 for about 4 months and love it, tuning is really important (took me 6 hours) but its def worth it. Printed my Voron 0.1 parts with abs+ without an enclosure without issues other than the 1 piece tophat. After watching more reviews, tuning should be done in about an hour. Havent done much dual color prints yet but from what I've done so far you'll be quite suprised how well it does.
@@dogfamily3115 Cause i didn't follow the guide properly and I have a really bad memory and didn't write down the adjustments so I had to keep doing the calibration. User error as normal for me. Should take about an hour if you follow the guides.
I had already kind of planned on an SV04 being my next printer (by selling off my venerable Artillery Sidewinder X1), but this helps confirm these plans. Doing multi-color prints on the X1 and my Ender 3 has been quite the lesson in patience, given the design limitations and just the struggle of getting filament changes to go right without any of the many potential problems getting in the way. Being able to do multi-color and multi-material printing without those limitations with a solid, reliable printer is extremely appealing - especially as the handful of other IDEX printers in this price class (Tenlog D3, Weedo/Entina X40, JGMaker Artist-D, and Tronxy Gemini S) all seem to have issues, some of which are serious.
I for one would be interested in your future video plans around this machine because I've had my eye on it for a while and that's where I am most curious.
This one is really interesting. I think Sovol deserves appreciation for the proper execution of this IDEX capability. And being that oddball of a machine, it practically begs for upgrades such as Klipper and an all metal hotend. Not that one must print above 240C (although nice to have), but we really hate the smell of burnt ptffd tube, right? If you look at it as to not what it is, but what one can make out of it, I don't think there's anything better out there.
You can replace the heat break with a bimetal one and go above 240, I've just done this on the SV05 I have in for review, it has the exact same hotend/extruder setup. We'll see how that works out, not sure I'd dare do it on the IDEX though..but you absolutely can.
I’ve been debating the SV04 for exactly the reason you described…IDEX without the waste. I’ve been considering a Mosaic Pallette or the Prusa MMU2S but was concerned with the amount of waste from switching colors. The SV04 hits right between them on price. It only has half the material support by default, but I already do manual color changes on my Ender3 Pro and my MK3S+, so manual changes on the SV04 might not be too bad
One problem with IDEX duplex and mirror mode is ABL. The extruders are not independend, they share their z (and y) coordinate. Changing the z - the hight - is the way to adapt to any bed bending. But you can not use ABL for two extruders at different x-positions on the bed. However: if using IDEX for dual material prints, only one extruder is active. So ABL should work. Also you do not actually need to mechanicly adjust both printheads to the same hight, as if only one printhead is used at any time, different z-offsets can be handled without problem. Never using duplex and mirror makes calibration much more simple to setup. It is mostly the same as with a single colour printer. Just 2 z-offsets instead of one and aditional the x/y offsets between the two extruders (camera with macro lens is helpfull). While IDEX is quite nice for dual material prints, it is not directly a competition for filament changers. Two colours are a lot less than 4/16 with AMS / 4AMS or 12 with ERCF or 5 with MMU2/3. Interestingly, using the good old mk3(s(+)) with MMU2/3 produces much less waste than the Bambulab systems - cut&poo is quite wastefull. Ramping profiles for unloading and leaving good filament tip for reload might be hard to tune - but with modern integrated nozzles like the Revo, the Nextruder nozzle, Trianglelabs unifing nozzle, Crealitys X1C nozzle etc. make it much more easy. In my opinion, it is not a matter if using IDEX or Filament changer - I think both should be used. Tool 0 only for support material, Flexible filament or other special material - and Tool 1 with a filament changer to use one(!) material with different colours.
Building a duel gantry true idex machine. Sure with both heads going at same time you can only print half the bed but in theory you should be able to print 2 completely different prints at the same time since they only share z, only one print would have to wait on the other to finish its layer. Its a ender 5 plus im calling the ender 5 plus plus. Once i get that working ill convert it to duel gantry corexy with hydra bed. Im curious it is possible to level the 2 toolhead individually, each has its own z offset and mesh map. Then the bed just adjust height for tool change offset differences. Would make adjusting the 2 heads to be perfect in plane a none issue.
Does exist a function within 3D printers with two hotend heads (or more) that when the filament sensor of the 1st hotend head get a signal of no more filament going through, the 1st hotend head moves aside and send a signal to a second hotend head to kick in and continue with the printing where the 1st hotend head was left?
With the insane popularity of the bambu lab printers atm ppl think that thats the only option for dual colour printing, however, I've been keeping up with Idexes for a while now and honestly, i hope they are where the future of multicolour printing is because the absolute waste from single extruder multi colour printing is so distressing
I got mine barely two weeks now, once set up ang go. Con: these wheels have been sitting too long cause flats because these are Delrin, I rather to go for polycarbonate type. Another is the fans only blows one way, it is good but not good enough, I just had it print out that blows all around the nozzle.
Mine came with the X axis wheels far two tight. Once you adjust the eccentric nut as well as disconnect the motor whilst you do the adjusting in order to get a feel of how smoothly it slides across the full width, it then prints properly.
1:35 this is what I built a while ago... Haven't even got it fully working and printed yet, after months of procrastination.. :p It's a trianglelab chimera, it's probably gonna be a nightmare.. (:
@@LostInTech3D You think you have no issues with Geeetech's try Zonestar's 4 color mixing hotend, that one clogged in the middle of one of the test prints on me
@@LostInTech3D the chimera isn't a mixing nozzle hotend, they're separate heatbreaks and nozzles on one heatsink, so.. levelling's gonna be interesting, as it's gonna be done with a grub screw :p
I've been struggling with 3D printer choice stress for years, trying to find the best starter printer, but the only thing I really want to print requires two colors. Is this a beginner friendly enough printer that I can let it run after calibration, or would it be better to just drop it and get a single nozzle printer?
Well...mine runs fine without any repeated calibration. But I've been accused of having some kind of good luck around printers 😅 make of that what you will. It's not a starter printer though. Be warned.
I use mine primarily as a one extruder printer although I tried it with two extruders for fun, calibrated, printed the dual colour cube, etc. I find it as easy or as difficult as my first printer, an Ender3 pro, in fact this one has direct extruders so it’s easy to feed the filament through. The instruction booklet to calibrate the bed is very clear, if you follow it step by step, you can’t go wrong. However, If you use a Mac like I do, you won’t be able to use the limited Cura slicer that Sovol provides because Sovol only include an exe file suitable for pc’s, so you may find it difficult to use other slicers with the right settings if you are a beginner, although there’s plenty of help about. I use PrusaSlicer and I adapted the code for the Prusa MK3, particularly the start and finish g-code and the machine parameters, (size) and retraction. So maybe it’s all a bit much hassle for your first printer.
I'm having a problem with extruder one gear not rotating correctly when the print head goes beyond +/-230mm on the X axis. It starts to jump as though it is slipping and sounds terrible. I've moved the print head one mm at a time to try and pinpoint exactly when it starts happening, but it changes each time. That makes me wonder if it is a firmware issue? I first noticed it with a print last night. Any ideas would be appreciated.
I have had this SV04 machine for a month, and CANNOT get it even close to the levelling bed. The Z axis will NOT go down past about 3 inches from the leveling plate. I can manually (when off) wind it down to the board, but when I turn it on, it thinks home (Z=0) is 3 inches above the plate itself, and will not go down when pushing the z axis down. I have flashed the firmware, tried putting head down right tot table, but nothing works. The probe goes from blue to red, if that helps. Any help would be so much appreciated.
I have contacted Solvol since November 25th, and have had NO clear good responses. Their service is terrible. I have sent pictures of the damaged box, and they still have done nothing. $652.00 down the drain so far. My Creality no issues, My Anycubic no issues, but so far constant paperweight from Solvol.
I'm probably gonna ask a very stupid question, but can you print 2 exact the same prints at the same time if you put 2 rolls of the same color on there? So you can print twice as fast?
If i understand the initial question, you are asking if you can print 2 of the exact same thing at once? Or 2 parts of the same thing? Either way, if it fits on the build plate, yes. Mirror mode/duplicate mode only gives you access to 1/2 of the build area in the slicer program, and then just uses both extruders to print that, giving you 2 of the exact same print. The extruders aren’t restricted to using 2 different colors, if you wanted to print an absolute ton of the exact same thing at the same time, yes, you could run mirror or double mode to print 2x as fast, understanding that you would only have access to a 150x300x400 build plate instead of the full 300x300x400.
I would reccommend checking out the open source "Dueling Zero" Printer. Instead of having the extruders be dependent like you call the "true idex", they're running on 2 seperate gantries so it's "truly independent", baring the restrictions from hitting each other of course, which is similar to idex problems, just in 2 dimensions of course.
I have a different approach than ever having to do a spirit level method. Get a caliper, use the hole depth gauge and level the gantry in relation to the printer base itself, then level the bed in relation to the gantry.
How well does this printer do supports in one color, and main print in a secondary color (if using the same material)? What im mostly interested in if the wiping is good enough for miniatures, if the small drips and parts of filament stuck on the nozzle would interfere if switched often between print and supports.
@@LostInTech3D thanks, there was a shorts video recommended after this, has wheels like the green and white truck but also has suspension! Classic black and yellow would be cool on that.
@@LostInTech3D Certain styles of mixing hotends (diamond [reprap.org/wiki/Diamond_Hotend ], Biqu[ruclips.net/video/MY4uHML5pEg/видео.html ]...) have the filament paths meet only at the very tip: that way, the nozzle is (unfortunately) permanent, however the material change might be almost immediate- and with dual color, well within the "hide it in infill" range
@@LostInTech3D I'm sure been trying last night. Shocked no one really mentioned that is does this. Wanted if there is a way to mod the sensor with PTFE tube to something
Idex printers are cool, but as you stated it is the second printer to buy. Or buy it and only use it as single extruder, until you are sure that you know what your are doing.
Get silicone molds off Amazon and you'll never waste filament or purge towers again. Put your scraps in the mold then throw it in the oven. The recycled "prints" come out colorful and different every time.
Currently printing dual wood filaments with .6 nozzles. Works great. Had one clog, but I lowered my print temp and printed the same model twice more with no issues.
The problem with IDEX is there are very few choices in the affordable range, none of them reliable. Sovol, FlashForge, Kywoo, and probably the Ender IDEX mod. I have the FF Creator Pro 2 that came with a busted mainboard, changed it but then the bed is terrible (non-flex and stuck prints), so I may have to invest in a flex bed and mod it to get "okay" prints, with quality worse than my Enders and Prusas, not to mention the mediocre closed source slicer! Funny thing is if you are rich you're still not immune, Raise3D and BCN3D have their share of weaknesses, such as slow print speeds and some seemingly unreliable results.
Ah, I mean, that's kind of what I said, they are pretty complex machines and you have to have the knack of using, tuning and potentially fixing them. But a lot of things are like that. It's a case of knowing what you're signing up for. Surprised to hear that about the creator pro as my mate has one, he's never complained about it
please can sum one just bring out a 3d printer that is high temp-320 deg all metal hot ends, direct drive-idex inclosed the size of the cr 10 off the shelf that does not need you to alter the g-code buy more stuff for or learn sum demonic codeing and does not cost 20k. aaaaahhhhhhhhhhh!
In short, im now I'm sold on IDEX functionality. I have been considering buying a 2nd printer for some time for my more technical / multi material designs, I find the amount of plastic waste typically associated with multi material printing upsetting. So this machine kinda covers all my needs, bit bigger build volume than my ender setup, 2 print heads, WAY less waste, And a solid review from one of my most trusted 3D printing youtubers. (Figgured with an all metal hot end on one side it becomes the prefect workhorse.) TAKE MY MONEY! Anyways, I really appreciate the content you provide to us in the maker comunity, always informative, knowledgeable, accessible to most skill levels, and just genuinely helpfull and insightful content. Been a fan since your 1st looks into taming TPU, where you showed not only the issues and the solutions that worked for you, but explained how the different factors played into the results. Helped me learn alot and overcome some hurdles and stay motivated to learn about 3d printing. Thanks for all your contributions. I look forward to seeing what you end up doing with this machine / IDEX functionality as well. Keep us posted :)
Haha gotcha. I hope there's more idex/toolchangers being made in the future, it's clearly the superior system, just not the easiest to implement or cheapest. I keep nagging companies to make IDEX/toolchangers, we'll get there.
@@LostInTech3D I'm imagining it wouldn't be too hard to implement this setup with an auxiliary tool exchanger to swap the second hotend, or some profiling magic to set up one hot end to manage multi material independently. But personally I think 2 materials/ heads is enough to significantly increase the capability of making functional print in place designs. Side note. Any recommendations for CAD software. I want to deticate some time to learning something more technical / practical moving forward but there are so many options out there it's hard to know where to start.
This printer is terrible. Would not stay leveled. The extruder has single gear and wears out fast. It will sometimes get misaligned and cause a mess of your print. The fan duct will get deformed and will need to be replaced within few weeks. Do NOT buy this printer.
It is your opinion, but I didn't find this to be the case, the bed is large and takes some effort to level manually, but I suspect you don't have M420 S1 in your start code (it has to be added, I will mention it in a future video) but it was already in my video called...unusually...M420. Without this, yeah, it won't use the mesh and it would be more difficult. I can't speak to the extruder but that would be something to talk to sovol about, sounds faulty.
I have this printer and haven’t found it to be any different as other printers when it comes to initially levelling the bed. The extruder works well so far printing PETG. The fan duct is a little far from the nozzle but it seems to work ok anyway. The quality I get is pretty close to my Prusa MK3s. I use prusaslicer with practically the same settings as for the factory prusa MK3, changing the machine parameters of course, and the retraction set to 2 or 2.5. I think it’s a good machine for the price.
Ive done the filament change every 2 layer thing.
That was fun. It turned a 45min print into a 4.5hr lesson in things to never do again.
I have owned the Tenlog TL-D3 pro for almost a year now. It is IDEX as well and honestly I like it. It has brushes on the side when parked the nozzle goes past and it sweeps the drips off. You can add a small extrude code in Cura for when it switches extruders and it will prime the hotend before printing. You are left with small strings of plastic on the sides of the printer after each print but it is significantly less plastic than a prime tower generates and amazingly efficient. When I saw this technology come out I knew it was the right direction for 3D multi color because it eliminates so many issues the other options have. I have tried all of the other options until I bought this machine and was not happy with any of them. This machine is great and pretty much does what I need. I love the mirroring and duplicating options to print more than one at a time on each half of the bed. It does speed things up if you use it when needed.
This came out at the exact right time. I let the smoke out of my main board on Friday, and the replacement can support dual hotends, so I'd intended to implement a "DDEX" design. That doesn't seem to be a thing anyone actually, like, /does/, so I was struggling to find information about the potential issues and solutions involved in such a setup. Even though this video is about an IDEX, it has a lot of the information I was looking for.
Check out proper printing and his rocker DDEX
I tried to find the proper printing video, idex brings it up.
I've had this printer since mid-June and it was honestly the best possible printer for the price. Sure, it might be a hefty size, but it's got a 300x300x400 buildspace. When matched with IDEX, it's a much better deal than a prusa mini for the same price if you're willing to set it up (coming from personal experience)
In your next video with the SV04 could you print some complex models using TPU with PVA supports please. Thanks love your channel!
yes I can!
I was terrified when getting my first SV04 and this definitely helped.
It would be interesting to see 2023 (or soon 2024) low-cost IDEX: better extruders and hotends, assisted tramming, strain gauge Z-offset + assisted height adjustment for second extruder (if both nozzles can reach the same spot, while the other is off-bed), X motors at back to better use all over width for movement, higher speed, input shaping.
A bit like cross between Ender 3 V3 SE/KE and Snapmaker J1 :)
interesting printer
Great video as always 👍
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍🙂
And Yes, am considering an IDEX
Just got my Sovol SV04 and only printed the test cubes which came out great. Sovol has a new leveling procedure that I think is more straight forward. Had to go out of town but looking forward to printing the combs.
I had originally purchased the Tronxy IDEX printer, and had to return doesn't even compare plus it was used. Don't waist you $ on this on Tronxy. Great review can't wait to get back to mine.....
I have this printer. It's taken a lot of massaging to get it to reliably print on the primary extruder. It prints pretty well. The second extruder has been a nightmare. I ended up having to mount the filament sensor directly to the top rail, the default mounting position can introduce a ton of strain on the filament causing it to snap, and print arms for the hot end cabling as they would frequently dip below the level of the print head mid print. I also swapped the included print surface for a textured PEI one.
That being said, even as a single extruder printer it was worth the price. Getting it working with prusaslicer was a whole other struggle.
Sovol's software support is... not good. The outright refuse to release the source code for the display.
I will be releasing the pruaslicer..profile or whatever...soon. I have it working, it did take some effort!
@@LostInTech3D
I have given up trying to get Cura and PrusaSlicer working. In theory, they should work, but I just can’t get the extrusion working right. Under-extrusion and a very crappy print, or over-extrusion and extra material embedded everywhere.
The provided Cura variant also isn’t doing a great job, so I have a small bucket’s worth of calibration cubes and Benchies with various failures.
Frustrating, as I understand the theory and it *should* be working correctly. 😾
(The machine works well mechanically, and the pre-sliced two-colour stuff does print well. I just can’t get stuff I slice myself to do so.)
@@boggisthecat I ended up taking one of the various community made prusaslicer profiles and tweaking the shit out of it.
I got convinced to buy one due to all of its features. Waiting now on delivery. After your video, I’m even more glad that I did. And it is currently on sale for $320. SCORE!!
It's still one of the only machines at that price point that can do true multi material, which is why I have kept mine around
@@LostInTech3D NOW they are telling me to expect it tomorrow afternoon.That time is only TWO days from order!! IF it only cost $2.00 I would accept the total disregard for my delayed gratification of 3-7 days. HARUMPH!! I may not even have time to move my Ender 3 off the "Enclosure" table to the dresser top to make room for the Sovol. That's encroaching on my well deserved Retired Lazy Arsefardle time!!! 😆 Thanks partner. Keep up the vids as long as you can. They are appreciated. 👍
I feel like would be awesome for printing soluble supports with PVA. Also the copy feature is really cool, i dont think there are lot of use cases for it, but its nice that they added it. If it works with different size nozzles then i can definitely see myself using one of these.
I have some PVA ready to try this
i've heard even having the support be PETG is going to be much easier to peel off already (given difference in meltpoint)
I think aurora tech tried that if I recall?
Thanks
Getting ready to buy this! Looking forward for the cura 5.0 seeing video!
Great. Just great. One more thing I want now. 😋
In all seriousness, it's really cool to see this kind of thing come to this price bracket.
this is a machine I have been thinking about for some time now, I wanted to get the ratrig V cast but thats now discontinued, this is something that is still on my radar, and I dont have to build it from scratch either.
This printers are just WONDERFUL to print figures in PLA and supports in PETG as they don’t adhere, so you can print with zero gap the support interfaces
I bought this model February iof this year and FINALLY got it fully calibrated four days ago. It was defuinately a struggle that is worth it for the water soluable support filaments making mask prints superior to the break-away supports.
I've had a Tenlog Hands 2 since last Nov. Full independent heads on separate belts. I didn't have to do much tuning - it had manual bed levelling and then offset for RH nozzle, and the test piece printed pretty accurately, so the next print was a 2 colour Muzz64 Sharkz, which turned out fine with the colour joints wiggly. Unfortunately since then I haven't got round to what I bought it for - printing with soluble supports. Oh well, eventually.... I wait with interest for your video on design for 2 colour - I've made 2 colour brackets for corners of a metal frame purely so I can see how well joined the bits are, but I'd like to do more. Thanks for the review
I designed a semi-parking extruder for my old Tronxy X8. I am currently in the process of doing the same for the Ender 5. In general, if you have a bed slinger, Idex or parking is the way to go. If you got any kind of cube printer, parking is the only way to go.
I like the idea of mirror printing.
SHOOT! . I saw the box. Cant wait for xmas . Gad, that Artist-d, it was the worst. You are the fav 3dprinter RUclipsr.. so glad you got one to hear you talk about it! Hopefully this will be my first, (fourth lol) where I can use prusa and cura and others with somewhat ease. Because when each one has a new feature release, it is, of course; I need that. Now!
I've had my SV04 for about 4 months and love it, tuning is really important (took me 6 hours) but its def worth it. Printed my Voron 0.1 parts with abs+ without an enclosure without issues other than the 1 piece tophat. After watching more reviews, tuning should be done in about an hour. Havent done much dual color prints yet but from what I've done so far you'll be quite suprised how well it does.
How come it take 6hrs to tune? And what kind of tunning does it require
@@dogfamily3115 Cause i didn't follow the guide properly and I have a really bad memory and didn't write down the adjustments so I had to keep doing the calibration. User error as normal for me. Should take about an hour if you follow the guides.
I had already kind of planned on an SV04 being my next printer (by selling off my venerable Artillery Sidewinder X1), but this helps confirm these plans. Doing multi-color prints on the X1 and my Ender 3 has been quite the lesson in patience, given the design limitations and just the struggle of getting filament changes to go right without any of the many potential problems getting in the way. Being able to do multi-color and multi-material printing without those limitations with a solid, reliable printer is extremely appealing - especially as the handful of other IDEX printers in this price class (Tenlog D3, Weedo/Entina X40, JGMaker Artist-D, and Tronxy Gemini S) all seem to have issues, some of which are serious.
I for one would be interested in your future video plans around this machine because I've had my eye on it for a while and that's where I am most curious.
Very interesting, i want one…. Whenever i get money for it
This one is really interesting. I think Sovol deserves appreciation for the proper execution of this IDEX capability. And being that oddball of a machine, it practically begs for upgrades such as Klipper and an all metal hotend. Not that one must print above 240C (although nice to have), but we really hate the smell of burnt ptffd tube, right?
If you look at it as to not what it is, but what one can make out of it, I don't think there's anything better out there.
You can replace the heat break with a bimetal one and go above 240, I've just done this on the SV05 I have in for review, it has the exact same hotend/extruder setup. We'll see how that works out, not sure I'd dare do it on the IDEX though..but you absolutely can.
I have so much fun with this printer. 😎
Yeah, the waste issue is the only reason I haven’t invested in a Bambu/AMS. Wastes as much plastic as you print. Just couldn’t do it.
I’ve been debating the SV04 for exactly the reason you described…IDEX without the waste. I’ve been considering a Mosaic Pallette or the Prusa MMU2S but was concerned with the amount of waste from switching colors. The SV04 hits right between them on price. It only has half the material support by default, but I already do manual color changes on my Ender3 Pro and my MK3S+, so manual changes on the SV04 might not be too bad
Good question, could you do manual changes on one nozzle while the other is printing?
No - definitely not, the purge bucket is in the way and filament is loaded. But why would you want to change nozzle mid way?
@@LostInTech3D I think he was asking if you could do a filament change on the not-in-use nozzle while the other one is printing
@@LostInTech3D Apologies. I meant, can you do manual *filament* changes on a nozzle that is not currently in use.
@@beatadalhagen I imagine you'd have to be fast, or pause the print.
One problem with IDEX duplex and mirror mode is ABL. The extruders are not independend, they share their z (and y) coordinate. Changing the z - the hight - is the way to adapt to any bed bending. But you can not use ABL for two extruders at different x-positions on the bed.
However: if using IDEX for dual material prints, only one extruder is active. So ABL should work.
Also you do not actually need to mechanicly adjust both printheads to the same hight, as if only one printhead is used at any time, different z-offsets can be handled without problem.
Never using duplex and mirror makes calibration much more simple to setup. It is mostly the same as with a single colour printer. Just 2 z-offsets instead of one and aditional the x/y offsets between the two extruders (camera with macro lens is helpfull).
While IDEX is quite nice for dual material prints, it is not directly a competition for filament changers. Two colours are a lot less than 4/16 with AMS / 4AMS or 12 with ERCF or 5 with MMU2/3. Interestingly, using the good old mk3(s(+)) with MMU2/3 produces much less waste than the Bambulab systems - cut&poo is quite wastefull. Ramping profiles for unloading and leaving good filament tip for reload might be hard to tune - but with modern integrated nozzles like the Revo, the Nextruder nozzle, Trianglelabs unifing nozzle, Crealitys X1C nozzle etc. make it much more easy.
In my opinion, it is not a matter if using IDEX or Filament changer - I think both should be used. Tool 0 only for support material, Flexible filament or other special material - and Tool 1 with a filament changer to use one(!) material with different colours.
One word : great !
Building a duel gantry true idex machine. Sure with both heads going at same time you can only print half the bed but in theory you should be able to print 2 completely different prints at the same time since they only share z, only one print would have to wait on the other to finish its layer.
Its a ender 5 plus im calling the ender 5 plus plus. Once i get that working ill convert it to duel gantry corexy with hydra bed.
Im curious it is possible to level the 2 toolhead individually, each has its own z offset and mesh map. Then the bed just adjust height for tool change offset differences. Would make adjusting the 2 heads to be perfect in plane a none issue.
Does exist a function within 3D printers with two hotend heads (or more) that when the filament sensor of the 1st hotend head get a signal of no more filament going through, the 1st hotend head moves aside and send a signal to a second hotend head to kick in and continue with the printing where the 1st hotend head was left?
That would be cool, but not as far as I know
That seems super useful, especially with a belt type bed. 2 2KG spools should keep it busy for a week.
With the insane popularity of the bambu lab printers atm ppl think that thats the only option for dual colour printing, however, I've been keeping up with Idexes for a while now and honestly, i hope they are where the future of multicolour printing is because the absolute waste from single extruder multi colour printing is so distressing
How about 2 mixing nozzles on an Idex for four colour printing.
I'm not even sure thats legal!
I got mine barely two weeks now, once set up ang go. Con: these wheels have been sitting too long cause flats because these are Delrin, I rather to go for polycarbonate type. Another is the fans only blows one way, it is good but not good enough, I just had it print out that blows all around the nozzle.
Do you have the STL for the fan ducts?
The wheels.... happens to all printers with them. It seems to resolve itself but check they aren't too tight
@@LostInTech3D Go inThangs, search for Sovol SV04, you might just find it.
will do!
Mine came with the X axis wheels far two tight. Once you adjust the eccentric nut as well as disconnect the motor whilst you do the adjusting in order to get a feel of how smoothly it slides across the full width, it then prints properly.
Wonder if it could simultaneously print mating parts?
the heads cant touch, but I've been mulling ideas involving full control gcode ;)
1:35 this is what I built a while ago... Haven't even got it fully working and printed yet, after months of procrastination.. :p
It's a trianglelab chimera, it's probably gonna be a nightmare.. (:
Hahaha I have no problems with the mixing nozzles but everyone else seems to !
@@LostInTech3D You think you have no issues with Geeetech's try Zonestar's 4 color mixing hotend, that one clogged in the middle of one of the test prints on me
@@LostInTech3D the chimera isn't a mixing nozzle hotend, they're separate heatbreaks and nozzles on one heatsink, so.. levelling's gonna be interesting, as it's gonna be done with a grub screw :p
10:45 They work better with the ability to swing left and right. Like David Carradine?
"Good luck upgrading a CR10 for that price" DAMN!!! I was thinking to upgrade mine 😞
I've been struggling with 3D printer choice stress for years, trying to find the best starter printer, but the only thing I really want to print requires two colors. Is this a beginner friendly enough printer that I can let it run after calibration, or would it be better to just drop it and get a single nozzle printer?
Well...mine runs fine without any repeated calibration. But I've been accused of having some kind of good luck around printers 😅 make of that what you will.
It's not a starter printer though. Be warned.
I use mine primarily as a one extruder printer although I tried it with two extruders for fun, calibrated, printed the dual colour cube, etc. I find it as easy or as difficult as my first printer, an Ender3 pro, in fact this one has direct extruders so it’s easy to feed the filament through. The instruction booklet to calibrate the bed is very clear, if you follow it step by step, you can’t go wrong. However, If you use a Mac like I do, you won’t be able to use the limited Cura slicer that Sovol provides because Sovol only include an exe file suitable for pc’s, so you may find it difficult to use other slicers with the right settings if you are a beginner, although there’s plenty of help about. I use PrusaSlicer and I adapted the code for the Prusa MK3, particularly the start and finish g-code and the machine parameters, (size) and retraction. So maybe it’s all a bit much hassle for your first printer.
Wonder why they didn't add a prime tower to heat up the filament to running temp
I'm having a problem with extruder one gear not rotating correctly when the print head goes beyond +/-230mm on the X axis. It starts to jump as though it is slipping and sounds terrible. I've moved the print head one mm at a time to try and pinpoint exactly when it starts happening, but it changes each time. That makes me wonder if it is a firmware issue? I first noticed it with a print last night. Any ideas would be appreciated.
I want an ITEX.. 😊
I have had this SV04 machine for a month, and CANNOT get it even close to the levelling bed. The Z axis will NOT go down past about 3 inches from the leveling plate. I can manually (when off) wind it down to the board, but when I turn it on, it thinks home (Z=0) is 3 inches above the plate itself, and will not go down when pushing the z axis down. I have flashed the firmware, tried putting head down right tot table, but nothing works. The probe goes from blue to red, if that helps. Any help would be so much appreciated.
Just sounds basically faulty, you should contact sovol
I have contacted Solvol since November 25th, and have had NO clear good responses. Their service is terrible. I have sent pictures of the damaged box, and they still have done nothing. $652.00 down the drain so far. My Creality no issues, My Anycubic no issues, but so far constant paperweight from Solvol.
It just sounds like you need a new bltouch
@@LostInTech3D I will try anything at this point in time. Thank you
Hop on discord if you need anything else, I'm sure we can get it working
I need an this Idex just because of the less waste.
I hate wasting 45g of filament for a 30g print.
sovol is bringing the heat
I'm probably gonna ask a very stupid question, but can you print 2 exact the same prints at the same time if you put 2 rolls of the same color on there? So you can print twice as fast?
I was wandering if it could.. half/half it each from it’s end?
If i understand the initial question, you are asking if you can print 2 of the exact same thing at once? Or 2 parts of the same thing? Either way, if it fits on the build plate, yes. Mirror mode/duplicate mode only gives you access to 1/2 of the build area in the slicer program, and then just uses both extruders to print that, giving you 2 of the exact same print. The extruders aren’t restricted to using 2 different colors, if you wanted to print an absolute ton of the exact same thing at the same time, yes, you could run mirror or double mode to print 2x as fast, understanding that you would only have access to a 150x300x400 build plate instead of the full 300x300x400.
I would reccommend checking out the open source "Dueling Zero" Printer. Instead of having the extruders be dependent like you call the "true idex", they're running on 2 seperate gantries so it's "truly independent", baring the restrictions from hitting each other of course, which is similar to idex problems, just in 2 dimensions of course.
Sound like my kind of thing haha
Could you use this IDEX printer to do single extruder prints that use a lot of the build surface? I would assume so but just checking
yeah you have to remember to use the mesh with M420 S1 in the start code
I have a different approach than ever having to do a spirit level method. Get a caliper, use the hole depth gauge and level the gantry in relation to the printer base itself, then level the bed in relation to the gantry.
yes thats a reasonable way, the spirit level was somewhat tongue in cheek (although would still work)
How well does this printer do supports in one color, and main print in a secondary color (if using the same material)? What im mostly interested in if the wiping is good enough for miniatures, if the small drips and parts of filament stuck on the nozzle would interfere if switched often between print and supports.
It's a good question. There's so much still to check out with this thing!
Print in Place Suzuki Jimny
Would be awesome on this, it's on printables.
I will totally check that out!!!
@@LostInTech3D thanks, there was a shorts video recommended after this, has wheels like the green and white truck but also has suspension!
Classic black and yellow would be cool on that.
No purge... it's like montage in films but IRL.
Have you printed fast colour change filament on it yet?
no, any ideas for models? 🙂
would it be possible to put the steppers in parallel on one driver and connect the z screw with a belt?
that's what other machines do, yeah
Where did you order the replacement bed from?
It's just off AliExpress
0:56
True IDEX?
Isn't IDEX short for INDIPENDENT dual extruder? 🤔
So all IDEX have indipendent extruders otherwise they are just DEX.
i've heard that you can use tpu as a support interface for pla prints but i can't find any videos of it. maybe a video idea for you?
you can, its not cheap though so I think mostly you could use pva instead. I should try it though :)
Tpu doesn’t require as much drying. Maybe easier than pva?
Just curious about the waste issue: diamond hotends might need only very little purging, the way I understood it?
I'm curious, what is your thinking here?
@@LostInTech3D Certain styles of mixing hotends (diamond [reprap.org/wiki/Diamond_Hotend ], Biqu[ruclips.net/video/MY4uHML5pEg/видео.html ]...) have the filament paths meet only at the very tip: that way, the nozzle is (unfortunately) permanent, however the material change might be almost immediate- and with dual color, well within the "hide it in infill" range
Is it possible to print supports with one head and the rest with the other?
yes it is, something I'm planning to try!
@@LostInTech3D this would be a good thing to save some money 😉
My fliament sensor seems to chaffing the fliament. What can be done to stop that?
I tried moving the sensors and doing the screws no real change.
You have to line up the intake and allow it to move freely. It can be done.
@@LostInTech3D I'm sure been trying last night. Shocked no one really mentioned that is does this.
Wanted if there is a way to mod the sensor with PTFE tube to something
I thought I had mentioned it, it's a while ago though and I can't even remember last week :)
@@LostInTech3D yeah you did, I think a guide into it will be a better solution.
could you review the biqu b1?
I am in touch with biqu but the b1 isn't one of their newer models so I probably won't get to review it
Idex printers are cool, but as you stated it is the second printer to buy. Or buy it and only use it as single extruder, until you are sure that you know what your are doing.
Can it handel tpu A60, A70, A80?
95 yes, anything below that, maybe but harder to manage
This Vs the tenlog DL3 Pro?
No idex....er...idea 😅 I know 3d printing professor has reviewed a lot of odd idex printers... maybe this one
Get silicone molds off Amazon and you'll never waste filament or purge towers again. Put your scraps in the mold then throw it in the oven. The recycled "prints" come out colorful and different every time.
And make what??
can it print gradient?
no - a very limited number of systems can do this, geeetechs do, and the SV02. It requires both filaments to be available and melted at the same time.
I'm interested in how well (if at all) it handles different size nozzles. Need to get some more moths in my wallet first.
cant see why it wouldnt - even at the same time!
Currently printing dual wood filaments with .6 nozzles. Works great. Had one clog, but I lowered my print temp and printed the same model twice more with no issues.
small correction: you don't get your gantry parallel with your table, you get it square with your z axis braces.
😂 so late to the X axis pun.
As nice as that is, I think I'd rather wait until the Pitstop extruder is more developed.
The problem with IDEX is there are very few choices in the affordable range, none of them reliable. Sovol, FlashForge, Kywoo, and probably the Ender IDEX mod. I have the FF Creator Pro 2 that came with a busted mainboard, changed it but then the bed is terrible (non-flex and stuck prints), so I may have to invest in a flex bed and mod it to get "okay" prints, with quality worse than my Enders and Prusas, not to mention the mediocre closed source slicer! Funny thing is if you are rich you're still not immune, Raise3D and BCN3D have their share of weaknesses, such as slow print speeds and some seemingly unreliable results.
Ah, I mean, that's kind of what I said, they are pretty complex machines and you have to have the knack of using, tuning and potentially fixing them. But a lot of things are like that. It's a case of knowing what you're signing up for.
Surprised to hear that about the creator pro as my mate has one, he's never complained about it
bad enough levelling one nozzle. doing two will kill me..
please can sum one just bring out a 3d printer
that is high temp-320 deg all metal hot ends,
direct drive-idex inclosed the size of the cr 10
off the shelf that does not need you to alter
the g-code buy more stuff for or learn sum demonic codeing and does not cost 20k.
aaaaahhhhhhhhhhh!
Haha I'm getting deja vu here 🤣
This review cost me hundreds of dollars.
Feel free to explain.
i reckon you must be enjoying it
In short, im now I'm sold on IDEX functionality.
I have been considering buying a 2nd printer for some time for my more technical / multi material designs, I find the amount of plastic waste typically associated with multi material printing upsetting.
So this machine kinda covers all my needs, bit bigger build volume than my ender setup, 2 print heads, WAY less waste, And a solid review from one of my most trusted 3D printing youtubers.
(Figgured with an all metal hot end on one side it becomes the prefect workhorse.) TAKE MY MONEY!
Anyways, I really appreciate the content you provide to us in the maker comunity, always informative, knowledgeable, accessible to most skill levels, and just genuinely helpfull and insightful content. Been a fan since your 1st looks into taming TPU, where you showed not only the issues and the solutions that worked for you, but explained how the different factors played into the results. Helped me learn alot and overcome some hurdles and stay motivated to learn about 3d printing.
Thanks for all your contributions. I look forward to seeing what you end up doing with this machine / IDEX functionality as well. Keep us posted :)
Haha gotcha.
I hope there's more idex/toolchangers being made in the future, it's clearly the superior system, just not the easiest to implement or cheapest. I keep nagging companies to make IDEX/toolchangers, we'll get there.
@@LostInTech3D I'm imagining it wouldn't be too hard to implement this setup with an auxiliary tool exchanger to swap the second hotend, or some profiling magic to set up one hot end to manage multi material independently.
But personally I think 2 materials/ heads is enough to significantly increase the capability of making functional print in place designs.
Side note. Any recommendations for CAD software. I want to deticate some time to learning something more technical / practical moving forward but there are so many options out there it's hard to know where to start.
This printer is terrible. Would not stay leveled. The extruder has single gear and wears out fast. It will sometimes get misaligned and cause a mess of your print. The fan duct will get deformed and will need to be replaced within few weeks. Do NOT buy this printer.
It is your opinion, but I didn't find this to be the case, the bed is large and takes some effort to level manually, but I suspect you don't have M420 S1 in your start code (it has to be added, I will mention it in a future video) but it was already in my video called...unusually...M420. Without this, yeah, it won't use the mesh and it would be more difficult.
I can't speak to the extruder but that would be something to talk to sovol about, sounds faulty.
@@LostInTech3D I went through the same frustrations previous reviewers went through. I felt Joshua bardwell’s pain.
I have this printer and haven’t found it to be any different as other printers when it comes to initially levelling the bed. The extruder works well so far printing PETG. The fan duct is a little far from the nozzle but it seems to work ok anyway. The quality I get is pretty close to my Prusa MK3s. I use prusaslicer with practically the same settings as for the factory prusa MK3, changing the machine parameters of course, and the retraction set to 2 or 2.5. I think it’s a good machine for the price.