Nice work man.. are you tightning the nyloc nut after adjusting? If not my guess is that the screw still can get loose from vibration as what tighten them are the thread in the frame
I let it so! Your point makes sense. I will check them after a few km filament printed. If it changes a lot I will try to tighten them after setup. If it also not helps I will try the silicone tube mod because it makes some tension on the threads. I just do not like its flexibility.
@@Dombi3D will be happy to know the result.. if you do tight them becareful.. i think the electric circuit is there and it won't like to be pressed on.. if i can think on another solution is adding loctite at the threads of the frame
Excellent! On my mk3s+ the factory spacers are 5.5mm tall and 6mm diameter. Also you should post your raw values so those of us without octoprint can compare. On my machine without octo the biggest difference between high and low is 0.117, which didn't seem great, but it was closer to 0.500 without the mod, so definitely improved 👍 I also noticed my heat bed cord seemed to be pulling the corner down, so something to be aware of.
This is a great mod. I installed it maybe two months ago and it's still pretty dead on accurate. It takes a couple of runs to get it right. Before the mod my 7x7 point bed leveling before every print would do a few extra probes on certain points. After the mod the leveling is the same for every point.
did you try to take the reading twice without doing any changes? because i have done it and every time the result will change, so i think prusa stock mode is more consistent 👌
great video! what's the reasoning you opted to do the test with the bed not heated? aren't you taking into account thermal expansion that happens when heat is involved? would be curious to know what your values are with NON-HEATED BED vs. HEATED BED..
You can make the calibration with preheated bed. For example if you know that you mostly print PETG then you should calibrate your bed on that temperature. As I say in the video I made the cold calibration just to finish quicker with the video.
I wish I had taken the readings of the stock setup to see how much this mod improves on the stock spacers. I used calipers to measure the spacers, and all of them were dead on 5.52mm on the gauge
Will the SuperPinda fix this issue? I have the superpinda and the 7x7 mesh leveling routine. But I still have to use the mesh bed level correction values a little bit to get things perfect. Awesome to see this foolproof method!
I do not have any super P.I.N.D.A. but this method makes sure that the bed as straight as possible from the beginning, so theoretically no Pinda needed anymore for bed warps just for finding the bed height for the correct Z start value.
Hi! At 3:22 we can see that your Z on the screen is "0.15?". It means that the Z calibration failed. We are several to have this issue ... Did you find a way to solve this ? Thanks ;)
If it was turned off and back on, the printer do not know its height and that is why it shows 0.15? with a question mark. It will go away after it calibrated itself.
I don't believe the algorithm is compensating for the fact that one screw moves at least a quarter of the bed, the calculation of the angles seems to be based on the thread pitch. However, for example if I move the left screw, the entire left half of the bed moves, which affects the height of the top left and bottom left corners. If I then adjust those two corners, I will either over or undershoot the adjustment. TL:DR, the screws are not independent of each other but the plugin treats them as so.
@@Dombi3D I just did mine. For the first adjustment following the numbers is fine, for 2nd adjustment, I turned less than the displayed angle. Then I did 2 repeated tests without adjusting the screws to observe which part of the bed was consistently higher or lower, and made adjustments on those corners turning less than the displayed angle. I continued doing 2X tests and only adjusted IF the readings were consistently high or low by MORE than 10 degrees. As you said, it's not meaningful to try to go for very low variance as the numbers naturally fluctuate. I stopped when multiple tests consistently gave readings of less than 0.04 variance. and no corners were consistently very high or low. Honestly I went overkill, I think for most people, just do 2 tests/adjustments and call it a day
I just bought my FYSETC clone a month ago and the hotend heater stopped working. I know the wiring is proper as the printer had been working well and the thermistor is fine as temperature raises when I use a hair dryer. Is it common for hotend heater to break that quick? What's the lifetime of a heater?
If you played to much with the hotend cable they might have snap, trust me they are SO sensible. I broke mine while trying to swap a new motherboard and installing a Bltouch
I'm in the middle of this adjustment perfection right now. I have mine down to about 0.054 but notice that with each new run and no adjustments made, the variance is changing each run. Is this normal?
Yes! The sensor itself has also some tolerances. Do not go overboard. If you know which bed temperature will be used the most you can heat up the bad and make the leveling there so it is more precise
I have a question not directly related to this video, but to one of you previous where you show the Fysetc Prusa clone. In the video where you reviewd the Fysetc you said they're as good as the original, if you make some mods (proper bearings, better belts etc). But can you the just use it just like the original? All the profiles, mods and tips out there for the original, do they apply to the clone as well? Would someone notice the difference in a blind test? It feels a bit like stealing, buying the clone, but on the other hand: they designs are out there to make your own, so it's ok I guess. It's not like they try to sell a fake article and make you believe it's the real thing. So...is it just as good? Or are there thing/malfunctions/inaccuracies that creep up over time/use that migth let you regret buying it?
I have bought 7 of them and did not regret it till now. As I said you have to assembly them properly and then it will work. Bearings as I heard since them also better quaility. Prusa profiles works well if you use the original thermistor because the clone ones measuering somehow lower temperature around 10°C which results a shinier print with PETG but also more stringing if you not tune it down. If you have the orignial thermistor this is not an issue. I bought also hardened metal nozzle which requires this extra temperature because of lower heat conductivity so the orignial profiles are good then with the clone thermistor also. I had at the beginning jams which was caused by the heatbreak with its teflon insert. So that has to be changed alos with a full metal one.
It can compensate for a given amount. But I like to be start as flat as possible. This mod is not required if you get decent first layers. Some of the beds has bigger deviations where this mod could help.
@@Dombi3D I have deviations from 0.17 to 0.6 mm. Can the printer compensate for these deviations? I ran into the fact that my printer on firmware 3.10 does not compensate for them, which is strange.
@@Dombi3D I found that my prusa mk3s, for some reason, does not take into account the surface relief when calibrating the first layer. I put strips of A4 paper on purpose under the metal sheet. Visually observing the movement of the nozzle from the surface, I found that it does not take into account the relief.
As far as I know, for Prusa Mini the silicone mod is used. forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/user-mods-octoprint-enclosures-nozzles/prusa-mini-silicone-bed-leveling-mod/
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I would be curious what will be consistency of this mode, lets say after 1 month. How much the "bed variance" value will change.
one of the best nylock mod videos on youtube. thank you!
Thank you enormously! I could never imagine my bed variance would be 0.008 ~ 0.018 ! Fantastic explanation and walkthrough!
Nice work man.. are you tightning the nyloc nut after adjusting? If not my guess is that the screw still can get loose from vibration as what tighten them are the thread in the frame
I let it so! Your point makes sense. I will check them after a few km filament printed. If it changes a lot I will try to tighten them after setup. If it also not helps I will try the silicone tube mod because it makes some tension on the threads. I just do not like its flexibility.
@@Dombi3D will be happy to know the result.. if you do tight them becareful.. i think the electric circuit is there and it won't like to be pressed on.. if i can think on another solution is adding loctite at the threads of the frame
My best variance was 0.009!
I was rooting for you and your 0.02... and I cheered with you on that 0.011!!! XD Awesome!
Not sure why I watched the whole thing I don't even have Prusa printer :D , but nice video.
Excellent! On my mk3s+ the factory spacers are 5.5mm tall and 6mm diameter. Also you should post your raw values so those of us without octoprint can compare. On my machine without octo the biggest difference between high and low is 0.117, which didn't seem great, but it was closer to 0.500 without the mod, so definitely improved 👍 I also noticed my heat bed cord seemed to be pulling the corner down, so something to be aware of.
flip over or change your bed sheet and everything will be off again
That is true for the stock also. That is why more sheets could be stored in memory.
I wonder if this is possible on non-Prusa printers? I have an Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro. I'd love to do a mod like this on it.
THANK YOU! Perfect short clear and fun upgrade tutorial.
This is a great mod. I installed it maybe two months ago and it's still pretty dead on accurate. It takes a couple of runs to get it right. Before the mod my 7x7 point bed leveling before every print would do a few extra probes on certain points. After the mod the leveling is the same for every point.
did you try to take the reading twice without doing any changes? because i have done it and every time the result will change, so i think prusa stock mode is more consistent 👌
He did that before the 3rd or 4th adjustment and it did change a small bit.
great video! what's the reasoning you opted to do the test with the bed not heated? aren't you taking into account thermal expansion that happens when heat is involved? would be curious to know what your values are with NON-HEATED BED vs. HEATED BED..
You can make the calibration with preheated bed. For example if you know that you mostly print PETG then you should calibrate your bed on that temperature. As I say in the video I made the cold calibration just to finish quicker with the video.
Nice video, but for everone … its going without octoprint and and without raspberry pi 😅
I wish I had taken the readings of the stock setup to see how much this mod improves on the stock spacers. I used calipers to measure the spacers, and all of them were dead on 5.52mm on the gauge
Самая грамотная настройка. С транспортиром, подсчёт оборотов винтов. Полный зачёт, отличный результат! 👍🏻
Will the SuperPinda fix this issue? I have the superpinda and the 7x7 mesh leveling routine. But I still have to use the mesh bed level correction values a little bit to get things perfect. Awesome to see this foolproof method!
I do not have any super P.I.N.D.A. but this method makes sure that the bed as straight as possible from the beginning, so theoretically no Pinda needed anymore for bed warps just for finding the bed height for the correct Z start value.
@@Dombi3D For this type of leveling, it is necessary to have the Rasberry ? or the control of the leveling can also be performed without ? thank
@@lucatt6980 because the script is running on the Raspberry Pi you need it.
Hi! At 3:22 we can see that your Z on the screen is "0.15?". It means that the Z calibration failed. We are several to have this issue ... Did you find a way to solve this ? Thanks ;)
If it was turned off and back on, the printer do not know its height and that is why it shows 0.15? with a question mark. It will go away after it calibrated itself.
Excellent Video! Thanks! Question? After completing the mod, do you perform new calibrations; e.g. Z-Axis and/or First Layer? Thanks in advance!
What a fantastic video. I might have to do this myself, I have quite high variance on my bed. Thank you!
would this work on mk42 heatbed?
Thank you for this! I was struggling with the bed visualizer, kept getting confused by the numbers but this was a much more understandable method!
Can you make tgis for creality printers please !
I don't believe the algorithm is compensating for the fact that one screw moves at least a quarter of the bed, the calculation of the angles seems to be based on the thread pitch. However, for example if I move the left screw, the entire left half of the bed moves, which affects the height of the top left and bottom left corners. If I then adjust those two corners, I will either over or undershoot the adjustment. TL:DR, the screws are not independent of each other but the plugin treats them as so.
It takes some try until you get all of them right but it worth it, trust me! :)
@@Dombi3D I just did mine. For the first adjustment following the numbers is fine, for 2nd adjustment, I turned less than the displayed angle. Then I did 2 repeated tests without adjusting the screws to observe which part of the bed was consistently higher or lower, and made adjustments on those corners turning less than the displayed angle. I continued doing 2X tests and only adjusted IF the readings were consistently high or low by MORE than 10 degrees. As you said, it's not meaningful to try to go for very low variance as the numbers naturally fluctuate. I stopped when multiple tests consistently gave readings of less than 0.04 variance. and no corners were consistently very high or low.
Honestly I went overkill, I think for most people, just do 2 tests/adjustments and call it a day
I just bought my FYSETC clone a month ago and the hotend heater stopped working. I know the wiring is proper as the printer had been working well and the thermistor is fine as temperature raises when I use a hair dryer. Is it common for hotend heater to break that quick? What's the lifetime of a heater?
If you played to much with the hotend cable they might have snap, trust me they are SO sensible. I broke mine while trying to swap a new motherboard and installing a Bltouch
Hello how I can contact you ?
I'm in the middle of this adjustment perfection right now. I have mine down to about 0.054 but notice that with each new run and no adjustments made, the variance is changing each run. Is this normal?
Yes! The sensor itself has also some tolerances. Do not go overboard. If you know which bed temperature will be used the most you can heat up the bad and make the leveling there so it is more precise
@@Dombi3D thanks. Would you recommend to only adjust with bed temp set or cold?
Great video I will give this a try
interesting
This is great. I plan to do this to my printer soon. I may try to do it using shim stock under the original spacers.
so did you try shims?
Can i install Octoprint on my Fysetc mk3 prusa clone?
Octoprint needs a RaspberryPi or an Android phone. If you have that and connect it with the printer it works on Fysetc mk3 also.
I have a question not directly related to this video, but to one of you previous where you show the Fysetc Prusa clone. In the video where you reviewd the Fysetc you said they're as good as the original, if you make some mods (proper bearings, better belts etc). But can you the just use it just like the original? All the profiles, mods and tips out there for the original, do they apply to the clone as well? Would someone notice the difference in a blind test? It feels a bit like stealing, buying the clone, but on the other hand: they designs are out there to make your own, so it's ok I guess. It's not like they try to sell a fake article and make you believe it's the real thing.
So...is it just as good? Or are there thing/malfunctions/inaccuracies that creep up over time/use that migth let you regret buying it?
I have bought 7 of them and did not regret it till now. As I said you have to assembly them properly and then it will work.
Bearings as I heard since them also better quaility.
Prusa profiles works well if you use the original thermistor because the clone ones measuering somehow lower temperature around 10°C which results a shinier print with PETG but also more stringing if you not tune it down. If you have the orignial thermistor this is not an issue. I bought also hardened metal nozzle which requires this extra temperature because of lower heat conductivity so the orignial profiles are good then with the clone thermistor also.
I had at the beginning jams which was caused by the heatbreak with its teflon insert. So that has to be changed alos with a full metal one.
@@Dombi3D thanks a lot for the quick response!
Why isn't the printer with the PINDA auto-leveling sensor compensating for these unevenness?
It can compensate for a given amount. But I like to be start as flat as possible. This mod is not required if you get decent first layers. Some of the beds has bigger deviations where this mod could help.
@@Dombi3D I have deviations from 0.17 to 0.6 mm. Can the printer compensate for these deviations? I ran into the fact that my printer on firmware 3.10 does not compensate for them, which is strange.
@@nickturin432 I could not find the maximum compensation capabilities of the printer but 0.6mm should be still ok I think.
@@Dombi3D I found that my prusa mk3s, for some reason, does not take into account the surface relief when calibrating the first layer. I put strips of A4 paper on purpose under the metal sheet. Visually observing the movement of the nozzle from the surface, I found that it does not take into account the relief.
У тебя акцент
YES.....
Excellent video !
What happened, did you delete my comment or re-uploaded the video?
As I commented, the audio was bad on the other one and re-uploaded it with the corrected one.
Wicked video dude 🤟✅
Great video
How's it holding up after a year?
I haven't adjusted since then and printing still solid. Not measured it though, but until it works fine I am happy.
@@Dombi3D thank you! I broke my heated bed so I think I'll replace it and do this much appreciated.
Does it support Prusa Mini ?
As far as I know, for Prusa Mini the silicone mod is used. forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/user-mods-octoprint-enclosures-nozzles/prusa-mini-silicone-bed-leveling-mod/
@@Dombi3D Nice i shall check it out, thanks for the reply