Hack your Prusa - Revisit - Prusa Bed Leveling - Chris's Basement - 2022
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- Опубликовано: 19 июл 2024
- Hack your Prusa is back! We're going to see how our hack from two years ago is holding up, then we'll try a new hack on our Voron Swichwire.
00:00 Introduction
00:50 Overview
03:13 Original Modification Check up
06:13 Silicone Tube Bed Modification
12:36 Dialing in the Level
16:55 Conclusion
These are affiliate links and take you to Amazon.
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Feelers 3mm ID x 8mm OD High-Strength Silicone Tubing on Amazon:
geni.us/fDbab4
REXBETI 12-Pack Utility Knife, Retractable Box Cutter on Amazon:
geni.us/NsZb7
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Helpful Links:
🔗🔗🔗🔗🔗🔗🔗
Link to Silicone bed mod:
www.schweinert.com/silicone-b...
Link to tube cutting jig:
github.com/PaulGameDev/PrusaM...
Ben Gadgets video:
• PRUSA i3 MK3 Nylock Be...
Bed visualizer site:
lokspace.eu/3d-printer-auto-be...
Pronterface:
www.pronterface.com/
Prusa level plugin:
plugins.octoprint.org/plugins...
Bed visualizer plugin:
plugins.octoprint.org/plugins...
Helpful videos:
🎞🎞🎞🎞🎞🎞🎞
Link to Original Hack your Prusa Video:
• Hack Your Prusa! - Pru...
Link to Shaky Table Video:
• Shaky Printer - Ultima...
Link to Shaky Table #shorts
• Shaky Table 2.0 - Chri...
SUPPORT THE CHANNEL BY CLICKING THESE LINKS!
OpenBuilds - Great CNC and 3D Printer Parts (aff)
openbuildspartstore.com/?ref=...
Slice Engineering - Mosquito Hotends (aff)
www.sliceengineering.com/?p=r...
Wham Bam Systems Flexible Beds (aff)
bit.ly/2HoS1cV
Amazon (aff) [US DE GB CA IT ES FR JP]:
www.amazon.com/?tag=chrisbase...
Banggood(aff) ban.ggood.vip/7vm3
Aliexpress(aff) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/UrRbCm8
Buy me a coffee to keep me going!
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You can support my work on Patreon
/ brotherchris
One Time Tips, You Can PayPal Me:
www.paypal.me/ChrisRiley3D
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As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. 
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Your stuff is always clear and succinct. Still hard for me to believe you only have 60k subs. Have a great Christmas!
Happy holidays!
The retired carpenter/mechanic in me would do a preliminary check with a good Level and straight-edge across the nine leveling screws. I would expect the first pass could be much, much closer to level after that excercise, then use the software. That should save the wildly out of level first pass. Just a thought...😁
Thanks for your insight!
I just checked mine (did the mod based on your video about 18 mos. ago) and its within .14 of level. very happy with it. Thanks for this follow up!
Great to hear!
Thanks Chris, good follow up.
Thank you!
WOAH 2 YEARS?!? damn time passes fast :') great video as always Chris! lmL
Don't I know it! Thanks for watching
Great video as always!
Thank you!
I did mine based on your video as well and while it's certainly drifted some, it's still pretty accurate.
Cool, thanks for your comment!
This is great. I was just looking at doing the nylock mod, and this looks way easier to do, so will try it out first.
Thanks for the great video.
Thanks for watching!
excellent video
Thanks!
Chris, I don't have a Prusa, but found this interesting, especially the challenge to keep going and get it even better
Thanks Dave. Happy New Year
As you pointed out. One needs to keep his expectations under control. On top of the heating plate you put the print bed that also has some warpage and can only copy the geometry of the heating plate to a certain point.
One thing worth mentioning. You can use ponterface or octoprint to tell the printer to either keep the bed map throughout the thickness/ height of the print or to make a fade out of n layers after which the printer doesn’t compensate any more. Basically you use the first n layer to absorb the deformation of the bed. I cannot remember the gcode for that though.
Awesome, thanks for the tip!
i have also 2 years of this mod and never had leveled my bed again. I used blue high temp silicon tube. One of the most useful upgrades for mk3(s+).
That's great, thanks for sharing!
Where can you get this blue high temp stuff? I got my third Prusa today and the bed is pretty off sadly so I’d like to try this and level her out. If possible could you link it on Amazon if they happen to carry it?
I know this is a year past the point of the video being posted. I watched both older and newer, I think I would use the old method as in my mind with load cells I think the data would not be as consistent with adding any type of pressur on the plate. with that said Chris both videos had tons on useful info and I thank you for it
Thanks for watching! I'm curious about your results
And silicon tube added to my amazon cart so I can do this mod on the Prusa Bear Sergio sent me. :)
Great, let us know how it goes!
@13:30 - 13:50 did you check the y carriage flatness before mounting the hot end ? You want a fairly orthogonal surface to the z axis before adding th hotbed. Yes you can make up for it with the silicon standoff but that adds unnecessary pressure to the hotbed .
I usually just do a quick check on the Y when I assemble them on a piece of stone.
Interesting, I will check my prusas level.
👍🙂
I've been an advocate for silicone spacers on beds since before Fysetc made them. I made my own from silicone round stock from McMaster Carr. Stock springs made for a very wobbly surface and it would go out of level constantly.
Thanks for your comment! 🙂
You could use the bed_screw_calculate Makro to get idea on how much each each screw has to be turned. That works great on my ender but should even be better on the switchwire with 9 screws!
Correction: screws_tilt_calculate
Cool, thanks!
Klipper has the nice SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE command that tells you how much and in which direction you have to turn every screw, its exactly like z tilt adjust, just manually
Cool, thanks Helge!
I've heard some have had issues with the ABLs giving inconsistent results with Ender series printers. The theory is that the x axis and extruder stepper signals can leak to the ABL signal, causing a false trip on the bed Z position.
Interesting, what type of sensor are you using?
Correction, meant to say inconsistent. I corrected my original post.
I have the CR Touch. I'm not sure I've observed this problem but there is a report on github for mriscoc.
I think I've seen inconsistencies where without touching anything, the matrix or even tram varies. Whether it varies enough to make a difference could be debated, but if you're trying to dial in the first layer, 0.04mm can make a visible difference.
Now that I got a Mk3S+ I can give this a try!
Good luck!
Yes , way easier than the locknuts .. Happy Holidays ...
You too, Happy New Year!
I just got a T300 and it has level issues. It's not easily adjustable with screws, although I did machine 4 aluminum spacers for the corners. I got it dialed in a little better using aluminum tape, but 2 corners on the 300x300mm bed are still a tad out.
I should check out my MK3 level as I'm curious what it is after fighting the T300 level issues.
It's pretty interesting to look at these. Some I have never had issues with, but then I look at the map and it's really bumpy.
Hey Chris, I see the amazon link in the description but when I click it I don’t see the sizes you have showing here. Are you able to link an exact one? I wanna try this mod now that my 3rd Prusa arrived but the bed is definitely a little off.
This is the one I used in the video. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L7YSMSZ?tag=chrisbasement-20&ie=UTF8&linkId=a6ef8d4e3d0f0c39c1b7da7caa581b62&ref_=as_li_ss_tl&geniuslink=true&th=1
If you are worried about the screws moving around could you get some torque seal in there?
You might be able to, not sure how well you can get it in the threads.
I did a modified process this many years back on my mk2.5 . I did have an issue when I did a complete calibration the software ploughed into my bed so I want sure why . It's Likely my bed sat off the y bed by more than the default. Question is where can that be adjusted ? Perhaps I should try the silicon standoff off on it.
MK2.5 is a little harder to line up as it has less mounting points, that could add some challenges.
I wonder if one should apply some thread lock to the screws? They aren't being tightened to a stopping point like they would be if tightened against the original spacers. How is this silicone mod holding up?
It's holding up really well. It's under high tension after you get it set, it seems to be holding everything in place.
@@ChrisRiley - My high-temperature silicone tubing just arrived, and I was surprised how stiff it is. I agree the tension is going to be quite high once I get these spacers installed.
The original prusa abl could only deal with minor bed level discrepancies
It did a fair job, but it can use some help.
I'm working on a nylock nut mod for the mk2.5s and think I have it close to compleate...
Would you be interested I have the details (no credit needed just want to help older pri ter owners). Should be compatible with the new tube spacers as well?
Sure, send it over. brotherchris81@gmail.com
I can't believe it's been two years, anyway have a very merry Christmas and a happy new year.
We were surprised too, time flies! Happy New Year!
Really good video again, but i like more the previous Hack, i think this is doing some unwanted long term bending of the Y carriage, the force of the sqished tubing is enough.
Fair point. Thanks for your insight.
I did that mod 2 years ago also, and it held the level beautifully I use a dial indicator attached to the printhead to make sure it is dead level that way I don't have to mess around with software, but I took my printer to even the next level and created a custom water cooling loop for the printhead. It's been over a year and I've never had a print jam due to heat creep. since doing that mod I can print high temp poly carbonate 275-295 all day with no issues. the mod I developed is compact and simple and requires minimum modification to the printhead.
That's great! Thanks for watching
Would shorter (or softer) silicon tubes cause less pillowing?
It might, I thought about giving it a try, maybe 7mm OD would be better.
I’ve been wondering about this mod (either version) for a while. My biggest issue is when doing MMU2 prints, and the purge block pops off - not sure if that is a bed leveling issue, or something with the way that purge block is laid down.
Could be bed leveling, You could also slow down the purge block a bit to help out. Good luck!
If my MMU purge block (or anything else) pops off, it's due to the troublesome powder-coated sheet I have. Mine came from a bad batch and it's always had adhesion issues. Alcohol is ineffective. Best thing is warm water and dish soap every half dozen or so prints. I noticed PVA filament sticks real well to it, and wherever PVA has been, other filament adheres to those places for several prints.
I've been ok with the stock prusa level, but I do have to admit that if I wanted to do it more, this looks WAY easier than fiddling around with an ender. lol
👍🙂
I was OK with the stock Prusa level until I had to print two large pieces that had to mate together at the surfaces that were on the build plate. It is then that one notices flatness variations in the build plate. I had that experience in something I made for a client last week, and that eventually led me to this video. Fortunately the client didn't mind because he had to finish the part with Bondo to prepare it to make a silicone mold.
@@anachronist in PLA at least large parts seem just fine. I'm having issues right now with PETG. But I'm 99% certain it's not bed related.
@@awilliams1701 - in my case, the two large PLA parts I printed and then joined did not match up perfectly, even though both parts were sliced from the same model. I installed Octoprint to get the mesh leveling data from my printer, and saw that my build plate is not flat, actually there's a slight twist. It's mostly flat, but the two corners on the right side are high and low; the maximum deviation from center is only 0.2 mm, but combine two parts together and that error is doubled. Printing a single part, you don't notice any problem with flatness. It's evident only when joining large parts.
@@anachronist as Chris said the prusa ones are usually pretty good, but not all are.
is there any way of getting these results from the machine (prusa i3 mk3s+) without the software
I can't think of one, at very least you would need a terminal like Pronterface. www.pronterface.com/
Hy Chris,
i'd like to do this hack, where can i find the printable parts for cutting the tube?
THNX!
already find it.THNX!
👍🙂
Could this also be done with klipper? I Have a klipper/mainsail/klipperscreen setup on a self build prusa bear. But klipper doesnt support a bed like this with bed screws adjust. And i have already spent many hours to find help on internet without succes.
You could do the same thing with Klipper, you just have to do it manually somewhat. That's Klipper in show in the video on the switch wire.
@@ChrisRiley There is an option in klipper screen that is like octoprint. Unfortunatly it can only use 8 screws and the left front screw is the reference in stead of the center screw with the prusa nyloc mod.
Yes doing it visually with the mesh view also works. But I just hoped klipper had the same function as octoprint for prusa.
Forgot to say, your video's are great!
@@edingcnc7685 It would be nice to have a plugin for it for sure. Thank you!
Anyone try this mod when he posted the video? How's it holding up?
So far so good!
why just not use springs as cheap printers do...and me
I suppose it's an option. Thanks for watching!
I have come to hate the overuse of the word hack. Hack your cucumber slicer, pickle making hack, hack your toilet, tooth brush hack…. Hack this, hack that, hack your pants, hack your car… ugh.
Thanks for your insight!