Prusa MMU2 Multi Material Unit - Tips and Tricks - Chris's Basement
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- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2024
- We go over a few things I have leaned while using the Prusa MMU2 multi material unit.
00:00 Intro
00:32 Latest Firmware
01:11 Filament
01:52 Idler Maintenance
07:29 Extruder Maintenance
09:40 Spool Holders
11:43 Secret Menu
15:15 Filament Tips
18:43 Last Tip
19:03 Conclusion
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PTFE tube printed separator:
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The MMU2 just got support in Marlin 2.0 for all printers. So now we don’t need an i3 to use it!
This is something I want to try very soon.
I came here to ask you to try it out. just seen it was available in marlin 2.0........ I want to buy a MMU2.0 now. please do a video....@@ChrisRiley
@@shawnkratos1347 Will do!
@@ChrisRiley can it be used in CR10s？
@@user-rc8nf5gj7d Not on the stock board without hacking the LCD cable.
The only man on YT with the balls to make a MMU2 video! Good job Chris! This is the best tips I could offer too
Ha! Thanks man!
There are a couple others that bitch and moan over the MMU2... I think Chris' exit statement nailed it: it is not without problems, but it's getting better.
Great content! I love how you include just enough information without talking on forever. Very helpful!
Thank you! It's some times hard to balance that. It's good to hear these are helpful.
Thanks for the great video, I've been considering the MMU2 for a while and you've given me the confidence to go ahead and get one.
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching.
Great work as always, I have to say this is the most underrated 3D printer RUclips channel .
Thanks for the kind words Fred!
Chris, this was VERY helpful... I went from almost not printable to 24 hours of non interruptions. Thank you for putting this together. I found a one more big item I wished you covered. If you get flashing RED and Green Lights during prints it means there are issues with the connection back to the prusa. I separated the wires, routed then along the Frame with e-tape. Solved the issues.. Will share this video with anyone having issues with their MMU. Thank you!
Awesome! That is a great point, I have seen that a time or two, never new exactly what it was trying to tell me.
These tricks helped me getting my MMU2S working. I will have a video out about it soon!
Great!
Best MMU2 video I have seen. Thanks so much for this.
Thanks!
Thanks for the easy to understand tips on getting your MMU2 to work successfully. I have been doing my head in with failed prints so I will go back to the beginning and check and recheck using your your advise. Hopefully I will have success and start enjoying my printing experience again. Cheers :)
Good luck Morty, make sure you contact Prusa if you can't figure it out.
I keep coming back to this video as it is so good and has helped me recalibrate when I changed Bowden length. Brilliant stuff! 😊
Glad it helped!
This will be very helpful as my MMU 2.0 is still not fully assembled yet, Thanks for making this !!!
Thanks for watching Ron!
Great videos and I enjoy the live streams also. Takes a great deal of work.
It sure does! :) Thanks for watching!
Best video for MMU2 maintenance hands down. Super thorough. Thanks man!
Glad it was helpful!
@@ChrisRiley I am having some serious loading issues with chimney they have you install for the IR sensor, I think I am going to try and go back to the older extruder
Really nice video! Mine ships in April, can't wait!
Thanks! They are a lot of fun.
Hi Chris. Just a short note of thanks - this video more than any other informed my MMU2s build and setup. Filament quality, gear tension (in MMU and extruder) and fastidious attention to the tubes and build have resulted in a very solid unit for me - Thankyou for the pointers. R
Awesome to hear! Thank you for the comment!
New to your channel. Great job! Great tips! A solidly filmed, planned and executed instruction video. Thank you. I'm looking at the Prusa and possibly the mmu. High Five!
Thanks Steve! Glad you liked it.
Great tips as always Chris. Thanks!
Thanks Ali!
Thanks Chris this video has made me more confident to start using my mmu2.
Great! You're welcome!
Good tips, it helps a lot.
Thanks Chris!
Thanks Michel!
Wonderful video! Jam-packed with useful information, succinct and to the point.
Thanks Taylor, glad you enjoyed it.
Thank you for your video. I was about to throw out the MMU2S because I was so frustrated with it and I normally don't quit. Your video helped me dial in the settings and I was able to create my first print.
Awesome, glad I could help.
Chris, your channel is the gold standard for all things Prusa, especially the MMU2. I don't know if I will ever find the time to get mine going reliably enough to just leave it in place and stop switching back and forth from single to multi, as this thing is a real challenge. Your knowledge and the way you have of presenting it is outstanding. Chipping in a few bucks for your time and effort, hopefully will be able to throw a bit more in down the road, just to say thanks.
Much appreciated! Thanks for watching!
Best video I found for the MMU2, nice job man. We want a new one for the MMU2S, that would be awesome
Thanks!
Now that’s a great video. Maybe it will help folks from having MMU frustrations, and lead to multicolor happiness!
Thanks Mike, I hope so, seems to be lots of MMU users out there not having a lot of luck.
one of the few MMU 2.0 videos out in the wild, looking forward to see some more when you get the MMU 2.0S upgrade.
Yes, I look forward to that upgrade. I will more than likely do a live stream on it.
@@ChrisRiley personally don't like live streaming. Tutorials become too long and full of useless babble. I have never seen one of yours though. Just built my MMU2S. Yours is the most useful tutorial I have found. Thank you!
@@laudavhutcheon946 Glad you liked it, thanks for watching.
Chris, thank you so very much. Excellent video, no-nonsense, to the point; love the way you run through this. I had my MMU2s set up yesterday for the first time and went through all the typical failures. Having had the i3MK3s for more than a year helped somewhat to figure out some of the issues myself, but your expert advice goes a long way to get me to successful operation of the MMU2 and I look forward to work myself through your advice step by step, particularly to the Secret Menu (I guess it will still be available in the MMU2*s*). One other thing I´ll be adding next week is a 5V LED to to the IR sensor, to verify it triggering without scrolling through the menu. Take care and stay safe! Chris
Thanks Chris, you take care as well. An LED on that sensor is a great idea.
love this video Chris :) just set my mine up and its working great cheers
Good to hear, thanks!
I just assembled my MK3S and MMU2S and looking forward to multifilament printing. This video was very informative. Thanks !
Glad it was helpful!
Impressive test walk though
Thanks for sharing😀👍
Thanks!
A full bag of tips. Thanks a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
I just got an mmu2 printer upgrade. This video was my first to watch after assembling :)
Sweet! I have another coming out soon.
@@ChrisRiley Good, (I'm having problems).
thanks Chris great video, I use most of these but will add the pass through to my mmu
Thanks for watching Zimmy!
Nice Video. Thank for posting
Thanks Richard.
Great video! Extremely informative about actually using the MMU. I have read the assembly manual, and I love that you've explained factors that will actually help in using the unit.
Thank you!
@@ChrisRiley What do you use for the filament buffer? Do you use the stock buffer, just let the filament coil between the MMU & spools, or something like a rewinder? Thanks again!
@@FrancisEsmondeWhite I've been using these with some success. www.prusaprinters.org/prints/31989-numbered-gravity-spool-holders-for-mmu2s
Thanks for making the least boring most informative video I’ve seen
You're very welcome!
I wanted one of these. I'm glad that I learned more about it first. I'll stick with a cyclops if I upgrade to multi color printing.
Good call, it could use some more bake time for sure.
Really really great video.
Thank you!
Chris - your videos are very informative! Thank you for sharing your amassed knowledge! I just subscribed to your channel!
Welcome to The Basement! Thanks for watching
I also found out that a ruby nozzle is going to prevent you from getting a good tapered tip. The ruby nozzle is flat on the inside, not tapered like a brass nozzle. I fought my MMU2 for 3 weeks after I first got it until I put my stock brass nozzle back on. Once I did that my tips were a lot better. And when I made a change in the slicer settings, I noticed a change in the filament tips. Whereas before when I had the ruby nozzle on, I would make a change in the slicer settings, and I wouldn't see any changes to the filament tips. So if your having problems with filament tips, and using a ruby nozzle, try a brass nozzle and see if that helps.
Thanks for the help!
You bet!
i've no Prusa and no MMU2 ... but this video is a WOW !!! Perfect explanation !
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you
@@ChrisRiley enjoyed and shared :)
Hey Chris, Awesome advice and tips. Although I'm a big Prusa fan (sounds like a spare part lol) I only have a MK2 and obviously no MMU. For me it's not something I am particularly into. I definitely still enjoy all your videos though.
I do have a Sigma if I want to do dual colour/material, but even that rarely get's used lately.
Prusa fan, love it. Thanks for watching man.
Thanks awesome tips !
You bet!
Great Video.. Thank You.
Thanks RJ!
Thanks for this
You bet!
Dude.. this is an awesome video.
Glad you liked it!
Good informative video.
Thanks Thomas, thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video - very helpful getting things dialed in from the start. As of today, the current firmware on the MMU2s is 1.0.6. Does this secret menu still work the same way for calibrating length to the extruder? I am using the bear extruder, which may be part of the issue, but when I went through the process, it fed the filament quite a bit farther past the extruder, all the way to the nozzle it seemed like. I ran it back so it is setup as you show in the video, but the middle button wouldn't save settings at the end of the process with selector at the far right. More importantly, the mmu pushed the filament much too far for lane 2 on my first test print. Can you confirm 1.0.6 works the same way?
Excellent thanks
Thanks for watching!
@@ChrisRiley Had watched a lot of videos where the uploaders just want hits and really don't say a lot. Your video is informative and helpful oh and you don't shout ;-)
@@paulwills7902 Well you are very much appreciated. :) Have a good weekend.
This was very helpful. Need a link to this video direct from the manual!
Ha! Thanks man! Glad you liked it.
Great Video Chris. This just confirms I will never get an MMU.
Thanks George, it can be a headache for sure.
Great video as always. Did you try TheZeroBeast mmu2 firmware? Also Slic3r ++ from supermerill added some nice features to the prusa Slic3rPE like automatic waste tower calculation based on the pigment/opacity. Saw the MK3S is coming with new IR sensor, steel ball and magnet... Guess this is the attempt to get more realible filament sensing at the extruder.
Thanks Gussner, I have not tried anything but stock yet. Great MK3S, another thing to buy.... :)
Howdy, where did you find info on the MK3S? Had no idea one was coming out so soon.
@@Nullzero98 As I am quite often compiling Prusa firmware I saw some commits to their Github.
@@Nullzero98 There will be also a MMU2S and the MK3S gets a LCD that can be dimmed by the firmware
Chris love your videos! I printed that piece that you recommend for the top of the extruder but i cant seem to figure how to mount it on mine. will it still work with my printer? I have the i3 MK3S+. thanks!
Thanks! I think the very new printers have a different top piece now. I did some searching but can't find the newest version yet.
How you only have 20K subscribers is beyond me.
Thanks Fred!
Hey Chris, following your steps on the "Secret Menu". When I load the filament and hit the center button, why did my filament not go all the way to the extruder? What am I missing?
It's encoded for a certain amount. You can use the other button to bring it down. With the new firmware and a filament sensor you shouldn't need to do this unless you have a custom setup.
Hey, :) Thx.
Bursting complexities.
Geeetech A10M alternative?
Anyways, questions. High temp? If so, how high?
Hey man, I am not sure how to answer this one.
Chris, awesome vid!! I noticed that you don't the filament tower on your extruder (8:15) and you use the mod directly onto the extruder. Did you change the internal parts as in the manual?
Thanks! Yes, it is a full on MMU2S extruder body.
Hi Chris, still trying to get set up here, after 1st layer calibration the filament balls up and won't retract, I have to remove the fista and use pliers to get it out. You seemed to be changing cooling moves and ram using Slic3r, how were you able to "resume printing"? Did you have to upload the model again? How can I make those adjustments for first layer when there isn't a model?
That doesn't sounds right, for first layer calc, it might leave it loaded intentionally. The next print should pull it out I think. Yes, on any of those changes I have to resend a new file for them to take.
I personally recommend filament within .03 or .02, prusa sells it, and many other brands (I found a local brand that had .02 .03 tolerances and we're cheap
Agreed, the closer the better, awesome find on that filament.
I thought I was gonna get a Auto Rewinder Filament holder mention there for a minute, but it was not to be!
I honestly thought about it, but I didn't have one to show. I still need to make one.
Thanks Chris...great tips and tricks......been wondering if you have vids on PVA or flex amterial issues/troubleshooting ?
In particular......blobbing issues when using flex or PVA when initially starts extruding. I get no transversing happening and when the blobbing happens I have no alt but to cancel print. Your help would be greatly appreciated :-)
I just recently purchased Prusa i3 MK3 + MMU2S
Cheers
I really don't have a lot of tips on Flex or PVA. Most of the time when I run into an issue with those 2 it's because they have picked up some moisture.
Great Video, I am getting ready to print the 5 color test soon with my MMU2S, giving this is 4 years old and they have since changed some design features, is there anything in this video that is not relevant anymore? Thanks for all your hard work and great videos!
Thanks! The only thing I can think of is the secret menu, that's really not relevant now. Check this video out as well, it might make things a little more clear. ruclips.net/video/LpoCYmSb7wo/видео.html
I also found out that a warping purge block can add to filament end stringing. I would have a print start out great, and have no filament strings on any of my tips. But an hour or two into the print I would start to get strings. I also noticed that my purge block was warping up in the back. I wouldn't think that these two issues would be related, but they are. If the purge block warps up, it's pressing up against the nozzle, when the nozzle goes through the ramming sequence and pulls the filament up to break the string, there is no vacuum break and filament from the purge block gets pulled up into the nozzle. I started using a glue stick on the purge block area of the bed, and now I no longer get warping on my purge block, and my filament tips are perfect throughout all my print.
Very interesting find...I haven't noticed the warping, but I have had some 2 color blocks fall over. I will have to keep an eye on that. Thanks for the comment.
@@ChrisRiley It was so frustrating, why would a print that only took a few hours to print come out fine, but prints that took over 10 hours or more would have MMU2 jams, and stringy tips? And there were times when I would have to use painters tape on my purge block just so it wouldn't come off the bed it was so bad. I think what causes the purge block to warp is that there is a very solid thick layer of filament on the back side of the block, and not much on the front side. The front you get all that open space when you have colors that don't come into play later on in the print. That back section that has a solid infill of filament cools, and shrinks, this pulls up on that side of the block, causing it to warp. I think it would be better if it alternated between the front and the back when laying down the solid infill, but I could be wrong. But in any case, since I started using glue stick in the area of the purge block, no more problems. I'm currently 17hrs into a 30hr multicolor print, and not once have I had to fix the MMU2, and I just looked at all my filament tips, they are as good as the first layer, with no strings. =)
@@saltydog1984 Well awesome you found something that worked. I am hoping the newest version of slic3r will allow us to alter the wipe tower.
I've seen some buffer for the filament is that option with the mmu available now?
Prusa has one that comes with it. I really like the RMU buffer.
Hey Chris, thx for the tips just received my used Mmu2s. Where did you get the tool (deburrer) for the PTFE tubes ?
Awesome, I got it here. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EIH573K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?tag=chrisbasement-20&ie=UTF8&psc=1&geniuslink=true
@@ChrisRiley thx mate !
If the two screws that hold the back cover on are under spring tension doesn't that mean that the filament is also under spring tension as opposed to being held by two fixed bars?
You are correct, but it adjusts for all 5 filaments at the same time, so if you have one that's even slightly off there is no compensation for that one.
@@ChrisRiley oh I figure since it was only hitting one roller at a time it would be able to compensate for it. Guess the tension system is pretty picky eh?
@@DoRC It does try it's best, but it's a lot to ask across that plain. It's a little tricky. ;)
Chris, can you have a go at a a similar video for differences with the MMU2s?
I can, but there are no differences in the MMU2 unit itself. It's all in the extruder body.
@@ChrisRiley yes, that's the rub. Many of us are having issues with the IR sensor in the extruder body miss triggering or not triggering, and that causing filament runout routine activation (or loading failures, or other things). So it'd be nice to see a video out there from someone as talented as yourself going through it. There's so many mmu2s it in the wild, but barely no YT channels have done anything on them. I think everyone puts them in the 'too hard' basket.
@@KieranShort Right on, I can see that. I will look into getting one made up.
Hey Chris, I have the MK3 with MMU 2.0 and I am trying to print some NinjaFlex for the first time today. I am having problems with the filament getting to the hotend, it loads and even gets the filament to the hotend when it first starts but after that it does not seem to be able to pull the filament enough to get it to print. I cant even see the spool turning once the actual print is started and that corresponds with lack of filament coming out of the hotend, the gears turn but nothing seems to happen past that. Have you been able to get any shore 85a flexible filament through your setup?
I have never got 085a shore to work, but with the new mmu2 rework, I think it will make it much easier.
@@ChrisRiley I was actually able to get things working by slowing everything (all speed settings except acceleration) down to 15 mm/s and setting the hotend temp to 235 degrees. I ended up with a little stringing but I was able to finish a pretty good looking print. It still does not like unloading the filament but I will take what I can get. Thanks for the reply.
Hi Chris , thanks for the detailed info abt MMU2. I concider to buy a MK3S with MMU or the Mosaic Palette Pro, I got 5 Printers and could use the Palette 2 for all my printers, while the MMU is only for Prusa :-)
You have had both of them, which would be your favorite choice?
Honestly, I am not a big fan of either. They are both a headache. I do think the MMU2 works better than the Palette, but it is still painful.
Thanks mate, ads are different from real life, I guess...
Appreciate your answer of „truth“
Would be nice to show how to adjust the gears? Also, show how to get the FINDA feeder piece to move freely.
Not much to adjust, just make sure they are lined up. If the selector doesn't move freely you might need to reprint it.
Where can I find the stl files to print that clever gadget, attached to the wire spool holder included in the delivery to the PRUSA printer to prevent the wire from getting stuck during retraction? Thanks Marco from Switzerland
I think this is the one you need Marco www.thingiverse.com/thing:3166394
I'm sorry but I'm looking for the stl files for that gadget that avoids during the retraction that the wire gets stuck on the roll of wire and you can see it in one of its videos. I hope I made myself clear? If I had your email I can send you a photo. Thanks and greetings from Switzerland
@@laoma1955 Send over a picture. brotherchris81@gmail.com
Does Prusa MMU2 make purge block when printing solubles too?
Worth paying 300euros for only printing solubles?
If your just doing solubles you might want to look at a dual extruder instead.
So this video is going on a year old, have there been enough improvements to the MMU2 to warrant a purchase?
The cut feature is nice.
Is there anything crazy you have to do with Octoprint or does it just continue to work?
Nothing crazy, it just works.
Hello Chris, Great video!! This is my next printer purchase! I had to wait until most of the bugs were out of it!
Thanks Charlie, yeah, there is a little ways to go, but hopefully it's well on it's way.
Hello, did anything happen on connecting a MMU2 to any other printer then original Prusa like an ordinary Rampsboard? Thank you
Yes, there is a branch out there for Marlin now. I have yet to test it, but it will be coming in the future.
@@ChrisRiley that's great, I'm really interested in to put it on an Ender 3 with MKS gen 1.4 and want to learn how to connect the right pins and so on. I'll wait what will happen and have already seen the branch from Marlin bugix 2.0.x . Thank you for your fast response.
Before I bought the printer, I watched your video and was skeptical. I print now for 2 months with Prusa i3 Mk3s MMU2S, everything is going great for me. You do not need to set anything on the MMU2S. If you have set everything correctly according to instructions and assembled, the correct firmware has been updated, everything works perfectly. I print with ABS, nylon, carbon and PETG and have no problems with different materials when changing material. I think you can delete the part with "fumble around at the MUMU" because it causes confusion.
This was more the case when this video came out. My MMU2 is now working pretty consistently .
Hey Andreas... I too became skeptical. . . when I saw your posts everywhere MMU2 was being mentioned . . .reddit, google, grabcad, thingaverse, solidworks, autocad, inventor, you name it. . . your perfect prints are as fictional as who you say you are. . . Prusa plant. The bottom line is that the mmu2 needs a lot of attention. I've learned that Josef Prusa doesn't pay his babysitters.
Hi Chris, I’m considering buying the mmu2 for my MK3 but wondered if there’s space to attach it when using the Lack enclosure?
Not without an overhaul on the enclosure. It might fit, but the filament routing will be a nightmare.
Chris Riley ok, thanks.
@@ChrisRiley I can confirm that it fits (but only just). Routing isn't a big problem if you place your spools on top of the enclosure. I can fit all five with the provided spool-rollers. Maintenance is a nightmare, however.
@@mhelvens Thanks Michiel, as much as I have to clean mine out I think for me the enclosure would just add to the headache, thank you for confirming.
Chris, can you please share your Slic3r profile for MMU2. Would love to have my first successful print.
I can send it, but I just use the stock slic3r settings for Filamentum brand filament.
Do you think that this would be able to be used on a matterhackers pulse xe?
Yeah, you can get it to work, not sure how well.
So 8:34 is for the MMU2 not the MMU2S, right? The MMU2S doesn't have this configuration anymore.
You are correct, that is the MK3 body, not the MK3S.
Man i’m having a hard time doing the MMU PTFE tube calibration. The menu isn’t doing what is supposed to. Boot up holding the centre button, left button then enter. But then when i press enter again it doesn’t respond and after a few seconds just resets...
Are you using the newest firmware on both the printer and the MMU2? Is it an MK3S? With the new IR sensor on the MK3S it should take care of that setting for you. I would set the MMU2 back to default and just try a print to see what happens.
Hoping this can help me, I just built a MMU2S and have been very frustrated by it.
Hey, what's going on with it?
@@ChrisRiley I'm still going through your steps but a big part of it was my being a dumb ass. I was running gcode on it that was for the MK3S and not the MMU2S flavor. I am trying to build one of those rewind spool holders to get ride of the buffer mess.
@@Duf Yeah, those winders do make things easier.
Probably a dumb question but how quickly can you swap the MMU2 on and off the printer? Or I guess a better quesiton might be, is the MMU2 kinda permanent oince you install it or are you able to take it off and on as needed?
It kinda dominates the printer really. The setup is so involved it's kinda hard to convert back to non-mmu2.
According to Prusa, you can just use a single filament in the MMU2S and it'll act just like it's not there... So why would you want to take it off?
@@thomasgauthier5691 Yes, you can use it in single mode which I do on occasion. Really wanting to remove it only comes into play it you need to move the printer. Then it's a hassle.
The Extruder tube mod: link seems to not be working currently. can you update it?
Looks like Thingiverse is having a fit. I will try it again tomorrow.
Hey Chris, what is your take on the waste tower issue? Does it waste a lot? Have you heard of a filament bucket/dump instead of a tower?
On one hand the bucket may make sense but you will loose some build volume. On the other hand you can wipe to object which isn't waste of filament
The tower is a concern for sure. The buckets are cool, but they have there draw backs as well. I am hoping more wipe into infill and waste objects get better utilized.
Well said @3d gussner
Thank you both for your answers!
Does anyone know where to get a replacement blade? I lost mine.
You can cut these down. www.amazon.com/ELMERS-X-Acto-Blades-Carded-X244/dp/B007QYAJRC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ELMERS+X-Acto+Light+Duty+Blades%2CCarded+%28X244%29&qid=1565632195&s=gateway&sr=8-1
hi there that arm u showed on the filament trays do u know where i can get one please
Prusa stopped using these a while back and I can't find the part any longer. They now rely on the buffer to do the same job.
@@ChrisRiley damm I did find something similar but my buffer is damaged so got to make a new one or buy the one u featured
This is an excellent video. I too have an MMU 2.0 and I've got a few tips to share as well now that I've gotten mine to 100% reliability (seriously) and I've even got it working with flexible filament!
Use this PTFE pass-through back plate: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3233579 Why: The stock back plate squishes the PTFE tubes resulting in too much friction. Bonus feature: This mod makes it *super* easy to disconnect the PTFE tubes to relocate your printer (e.g. for maintenance or just to take it somewhere). Just press the collet down and pull out the PTFE. Takes 2 seconds! Love it. Insertion afterwards is even easier.
Use this "Large Bore" MMU 2.0 selector and print it at 0.1mm layer height: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3337120 Why: The stock selector's intake hole is far too small (and not even tapered!) and that part is printed at .2mm layer height... If you cut filament tips with nice, sharp flush cutters like me this means that the tip will have a *super* pointy end (like Prusa recommends) and that pointy end will often get stuck on the outside of the selector *or* it will be pushing up against those .2mm layer lines (which are *not* smooth--they're quite rough; I assume because Prusa is printing a zillion of these a day at rather high speeds) which causes far more friction than you'd think. By having a larger (tapered) opening and printing at 0.1mm layer height you'll have a selector that's *super smooth* and gently guides the filament the way it's supposed to with very little friction. Also, I highly recommend you print it with some *transparent* PETG which is much slicker (more slippery) than the black PETG Prusa gives you for printing the parts. Dark pigments can give printed PETG a considerably rougher surface! For reference, I printed mine in eSun Transparent Blue (www.thingiverse.com/make:596801)
Use that tapering tool Chris recommended in his video to taper *both* ends of the "short" PTFE tubes in the front of the MMU 2.0 unit. The MMU 2.0 ships with just one side of those tubes being tapered and the manual says to insert them with the tapered end facing outwards (which doesn't *seem* to make sense but one of Prusa's engineers says it's to aid with retracting rammed filament tips). Having *both* sides of those short tubes tapered means there's less of a chance that a sharp (extra pointy) filament tip will get caught on the edge as it comes out of the hobbed gear and into the selector.
Thanks for sharing.
MMU2 can work like Bowden?? Or only paired with the director?
It's really hard to get it to work that way, you can, but there will be a lot of custom config.
Use the capercorn tube or thr clone of same from triangle labs on aliexpress
I actually think cap tube would be too tight for the rammed filament ends.
I need some help on using PVA T_T I found that PVA is too soft always cannot feed.
The best trick I can tell you it to dry it out. Get a food dehydrator. It needs to be super dry. If it's stringy at all it's not dry enough. It should be almost as stiff as PLA when it is dry.
@@ChrisRiley I got dry box that heated up .
but the problem is the PVA like flexible filament , the are soft. I cant print with it even on mk 2.5
is that any PVA brand better? did you try with PVA support on mmu?
@@B3D What brand are you using?
@@B3D I have been using inland brand and as log as it's dry it will work on the MMU2.
Hi, In the beginningmy prusa read the 5 filaments , now it does not recognize them, please help
Check you finda probe is adjusted correctly.
You been able to get PVA soluble to work threw mmu2
Yes, if you dry it out while printing it seems to work decently.
that is a great review, I am new to the 3dprinting thing and I never own or work on one of them. but I am so excited to buy my first 3dprinter with a budget of 1000 euro and I am really lost and confused. I was just about purchasing the Prusa MK3S DIY kit till I found something scared me a little bit. I am a communication engineer, so I can judge only on some electronic components. I am not a big fan of the EINSY RAMBo motherboard which based on "Arduino Mega". I believe all those boards are not designed for a pro user or heavy tasks/load which could generate unwanted heat that leads the board to produce un accurate printing. I like those boards just for small projects. I was excepting an advanced motherboard and this what scared me and push for watching more reviews.
but maybe I am wrong about all of that and maybe this board is performing as it designed for.
any advice would be appreciated
It is try the Ultimachine boards are based on the old 2650 chip, but I can tell you, they are great boards and really well made, the only use high end components and they last a long time. On the other side of things, if you are looking for other boards, check out Duet, it's a little more modern design, they are also high quailty and we are starting to see printer companies using them in there kits.
@@ChrisRileyI did not find any printer with Duet board, would you share any good brand that using the Duet please. waiting 6 weeks for Prusa is too much. if I find something in the same quality or better it would be great even if I will pay a little bit more.
Chris thanks for the tips, I know they will same me some headaches. Notice the tube coupler is out of stock, is there a suitable sub you can suggest?
This should be about the same. www.amazon.com/YOTINO-Straight-Pneumatic-Connector-Long-Distance/dp/B078SRBDS7/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_2_sspa?keywords=V6+Bowden+J-Head+Pneumatic+Straight+Connectors&qid=1549908957&s=industrial&sr=1-2-fkmrnull-spons&psc=1
omg I want one SO BAD *drool* one day I'll be old and rich and have one..
Ive tried that sequence over and over again and it does not work at all. I think maybe something changed ?
The tube length sequence you mean? It could have changes in the firmware. I am getting ready to upgrade mine, I will check it out.
Chris, anyone else, I'm having issues with filament tip being too thick sometimes on filament change and it gets stuck in the ptfe tubing... any advice on setting changes?
I had this issue and fixed it! Double-check that no PTFE is getting "squished" anywhere in the MMU 2.0. For me, that problem was caused by the plate in the back of the MMU 2.0 that holds the backside PTFE tubes in place. It's not a very good design. I swapped that back plate out with this one which uses proper PTFE pass-through connectors and that problem went away: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3337120
Almost forgot: Also make sure your extruder body isn't an earlier version of the R3 unit. The hole going from the top (where the plate holding the PTFE tube fits in) was slightly too small and could result in tips getting caught up (slowed, if not completely stuck) in there. You can fix it in like 2 minutes though real quick: Remove the top plate that holds the Festo coupling and that little PTFE tube then use a 2mm drill bit to drill it out. Go as slow as your drill can go and be careful not to hit the filament sensor (even though it's not being used in the MMU 2.0--yet) or the Bondtech gear (you'll need to unscrew the tension screws and lift up the side plate so you can get a good look in there while you drill). I did this (even though I printed the latest R3 extruder body) and also gave it a little bit of a wiggle while I drilled it out to ensure it was tapered ever so slightly. It definitely opened up the hole just above the Bondtech gear a bit and from that point on I never had a poorly-rammed tip get stuck there.
Another thing that caused me a similar headache was a mistake I made in Slic3r-PE: I accidentally used an MMU 1.0 profile for a print which had it trying to unload the filament the entire way using nothing but the extruder itself (no MMU) which resulted in a great big blob of hard-to-remove filament just above the Bondtech gear. Ugh! Took me far too long to figure out that was what was causing that problem, hah!
If in doubt, (temporarily) relocate your Slic3r profile (effectively resetting everything to defaults) and try a simple MMU print to make sure everything works. There's just as much that can go wrong with the software as can go wrong with the hardware!
Thanks for the tips @riskable 3d printing, @jungle gym ninja, let me know if you still need help.
@@Riskable3DPrinting I'll have to take a closer look at the tubing just above the extruder gears then cuz that's where it's getting jammed. I did bore and double check all other spots though like you mentioned. I went from mk2s mmu1.0 to mk2.5 mmu2.0 just last month. So I assume it's one of the newer revs but I can check. the filament is occasionally ball ended instead of spear shape or just too thick of a spear. It's this Algix APLA , I have 5 spools and needed to make some name tags with those colors ... otherwise I'd just reserve them for single prints because it will only jam at the end. I was leaning toward any suggestions on ram settings etc because my petg and other pla doesn't seem to have this thickness issue.
@@Riskable3DPrinting I used a drill up at the selector and that alleviated a lot of friction there. I'll take a look at this area you mentioned and see how it shakes out!
bowden setup, five of them, five rolls of filament in cmykw, 5 into one nozzle, bam, REAL full range colour printing. tried building it myself, but nothing supports it.
That's always been the dream. I am waiting for the pellet feeder design to get popular.