The advanced polymer (in the tube) is a caulk. You want to use that for cracks up to ¼" wide. Cut the tip as close to the width of the gap as you can. If you lay a good bead, you won't need to tool it. But most ppl need to tool... for these concrete cracks, a stiff piece of cardboard or wood shim will work, then discard. Don't destroy your putty knives needlessly. The acrylic is for wide cracks & wall cracks. The sand in it makes it look great, but only if applied properly. Brush out, then vacuum the crack. Cut tip of tube to size. Slowly and steadily squeeze handle and drag the caulking gun slowly, being sure that you're filling the crack and not just goobering on top of it. Then immediately use a wet sponge, and gently wipe the fresh bread, blend & feather any product that ends up outside of the crack. After it cures it looks like concrete. The advanced polymer stuff is for driveways & sidewalks where flexibility is needed, but looks are not a priority.
Thanks, I appreciate it! I have several other videos that I started this summer, but I’m waiting till next summer to complete and publish to show long-term results. That’s the kind of video I would like to see; not just how it looks out of the box, but how it has held up! I’m glad it’s appreciated, thanks!
Thank you SO MUCH for your dedication to this project! Much appreciated it! I actually have both products on hand right now and this video is a great guide! Thank you.
I personally like the finish of the acrylic on the concrete. I would be led to believe that the crack in the acrylic application was due to an underlying stress issue the reason there was a Crackdown the first place that had not been addressed. However I didn't know the difference and I came here to see it and you showed me exactly what I was looking for! So thank you dear sir👍👍
Thank you for the comprehensive comparison! I have several apartment buildings and I used the advanced polymer over the acrylic, to seal some stair step cracks. I'll share a tip. I used rubber latex gloves and WD40. I would smooth the advanced polymer using the WD40. Looks perfectly smooth!
Can you use the advanced first, let dry, then on top use acrylic one to give it that rough concrete look, instead of mixing real concrete. I'm just patching some crack in between red brick
They do make a product for that. It’s called “mortar repair” and comes in a caulk tube. I have used it before and didn’t have any complaints. amzn.to/3PDZxUw
I have a hairline crack on my exterior foundation wall. it has been inspected by a foundation expert. He said the crack hasnt gone through the concrete and for me to watch it. As for now he told me to paint it and if it gets larger to contact him. I want to seal it but having problems finding a good sealant. Any advice Please?
It sounds like the inspector wanted it to remain visible (as opposed to filling it in) so you can continue to monitor it for changes. The inspector recommended painting it, which would seal it. I would use oil based paint so it stands up to precipitation. Otherwise, I would personally use the advanced polymer crack repair sealant in this video. That’s the application it’s for.
I cleaned up what I could with a putty knife, then reapplied. It would take some pretty significant effort with some power tools to completely clean it up. I figured for $5 or $10 a year, i’ll just power wash it then reapply over the top.
I don’t know for sure, but my opinion would be that the acrylic sealant could be painted with latex based paint. It is acrylic based and has a pretty rough surface. I’m not sure if paint would adhere to the advanced polymer sealant. I would recommend calling quikrete customer service and asking. If you do, let me know what you find out!
Both products are garbage, I used the advanced polymer and you can peel it off with your finger nail… there’s a reason why it’s so cheap.. silka is a lot better.
The advanced polymer (in the tube) is a caulk. You want to use that for cracks up to ¼" wide. Cut the tip as close to the width of the gap as you can. If you lay a good bead, you won't need to tool it. But most ppl need to tool... for these concrete cracks, a stiff piece of cardboard or wood shim will work, then discard. Don't destroy your putty knives needlessly.
The acrylic is for wide cracks & wall cracks. The sand in it makes it look great, but only if applied properly. Brush out, then vacuum the crack. Cut tip of tube to size. Slowly and steadily squeeze handle and drag the caulking gun slowly, being sure that you're filling the crack and not just goobering on top of it. Then immediately use a wet sponge, and gently wipe the fresh bread, blend & feather any product that ends up outside of the crack. After it cures it looks like concrete. The advanced polymer stuff is for driveways & sidewalks where flexibility is needed, but looks are not a priority.
Thanks for sharing!
Wow, thanks!
Thanks for the dedication bro. It took you literal yrs for this review.
Thanks, I appreciate it! I have several other videos that I started this summer, but I’m waiting till next summer to complete and publish to show long-term results. That’s the kind of video I would like to see; not just how it looks out of the box, but how it has held up! I’m glad it’s appreciated, thanks!
Thank you SO MUCH for your dedication to this project! Much appreciated it! I actually have both products on hand right now and this video is a great guide! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I personally like the finish of the acrylic on the concrete. I would be led to believe that the crack in the acrylic application was due to an underlying stress issue the reason there was a Crackdown the first place that had not been addressed. However I didn't know the difference and I came here to see it and you showed me exactly what I was looking for! So thank you dear sir👍👍
nice review. that spider almost bought it!
Awesome video. We just bought a house made in the 60s and this is very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks. Im currently using the acrylic in my basement. i might switch to the advanced polymer next batch I buy
Are you getting water in your basement? If so did it help?
Bless you for making this very specific video. It's exactly what I was looking for.
Nice! Glad you found it helpful!
Thank you for the comprehensive comparison! I have several apartment buildings and I used the advanced polymer over the acrylic, to seal some stair step cracks. I'll share a tip. I used rubber latex gloves and WD40. I would smooth the advanced polymer using the WD40. Looks perfectly smooth!
Thanks for sharing the tip!
Did you spray the WD 40 on the polymer or on the rubber gloves? If applied directly to the polymer does it affect it?
Digging your videos! Keep up the good work!
Thanks, I appreciate it!
Excellent Review Thank You!!!
Glad it was helpful!
is the caulking paint able ..?
how many square meters can the whole bottle cover
Can you use the advanced first, let dry, then on top use acrylic one to give it that rough concrete look, instead of mixing real concrete. I'm just patching some crack in between red brick
They do make a product for that. It’s called “mortar repair” and comes in a caulk tube. I have used it before and didn’t have any complaints.
amzn.to/3PDZxUw
I have a hairline crack on my exterior foundation wall. it has been inspected by a foundation expert. He said the crack hasnt gone through the concrete and for me to watch it. As for now he told me to paint it and if it gets larger to contact him. I want to seal it but having problems finding a good sealant. Any advice Please?
It sounds like the inspector wanted it to remain visible (as opposed to filling it in) so you can continue to monitor it for changes. The inspector recommended painting it, which would seal it. I would use oil based paint so it stands up to precipitation. Otherwise, I would personally use the advanced polymer crack repair sealant in this video. That’s the application it’s for.
you woulda liked the self-level. i used the Sika brand almost ten years ago
For sure. I used the Loctite self level at my old house. It lasted four years and was still going strong when I moved away.
Are you going to remove old crack sealer and reapply? If so how do you remove it
I cleaned up what I could with a putty knife, then reapplied. It would take some pretty significant effort with some power tools to completely clean it up. I figured for $5 or $10 a year, i’ll just power wash it then reapply over the top.
Are these paintable if I use them on my basement walls?
I don’t know for sure, but my opinion would be that the acrylic sealant could be painted with latex based paint. It is acrylic based and has a pretty rough surface. I’m not sure if paint would adhere to the advanced polymer sealant. I would recommend calling quikrete customer service and asking. If you do, let me know what you find out!
don't forget gray crackstix -- heat applied and lifetime warranty.
I love the head-to-head comparisons over time. Really don’t understand why the cheap stuff is even sold. It’s worthless.
I just posted a 2.5 year update on these 3 days ago!
ruclips.net/video/LZ3hq4Y9uEE/видео.html
I am just viewing this but it seems portions of the drive-way has sunk even, during the first application
I agree, it is uneven.
To bad you didn't do a 3 day water test to see if it dissolves or softens. Thx for the test...........
If that was on my radar, I absolutely would’ve done it. I didn’t even consider a test like that. Bummer!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Well the acrylic failed. I'm going to try the polyurethane see if that holds up. :)
Hello buddy, that gotta be Southern California ha ha ha.
👍👍
What a lousy job you did in both products, the cracks were never properly cleaned up.
Both products are garbage, I used the advanced polymer and you can peel it off with your finger nail… there’s a reason why it’s so cheap.. silka is a lot better.
Thanks for sharing!