I don't really 'recommend' techniques like this but, rather, encourage viewers to see if the way I prefer to do something like this is a good fit or feel to them. Because I'm tooling this sealant AFTER dispensing I find 'pushing' the sealant in situations like this works much better, for me, to fill the joint and keep an eye on dispensing the right amount of sealant. Keep in mind thought that in most every other caulking situation I prefer 'pulling' the bead so I can use the tip of the caulk tube to do the tooling and smooth the bead as I go.
I have watched hundreds and hundreds of videos for the DIY homeowner, and this tutorial is in the top 1% of them all ! THANK YOU for taking your time to make this video, Very well presented... well filmed and well narrated. Thank You again, Sir !
Two things. The hero of this project is the debris pale. Often forgotten and underappreciated. And the sand treatment has an additional benefit of UV protection. As a handyman, I am usually the second or third guy in and when this seal fails after a decade or so. It makes my job so much more satisfying to replace a neat job like this than repairing the crime scenes I often encounter. Thanks.
After having watched several other videos like this where the OP is giving people horrible advice, and misinformation, it's nice to finally see you know what you're talking about. THANK YOU for restoring my faith in 'How to videos'.
I saw a completed caulking job like this about 15 to 20 years ago and haven’t seen another since then. It was stunning! I didn’t know about adding the sand after so I thought it was a special caulk. I have found caulking for stucco and I’ve used it, but it never looked this good. What I saw was perfectly uniform and placed nicely between the two sides with clean edges . I couldn’t imagine what magic the installer used to do this, but kept it in the back of my mind. NOW, I know how it was done. It’s positively beautiful! Thank you!!
As a widow I try to do as many home projects myself so I rely on these videos. Yours are excellent for someone like myself especially showing what products to use and why. Loved it and the results are perfect. Thank you thank you.
I've been caulking as a part of my business for 20 years. The 409 trick is just what I've been needing all that time - to make what had already been "good", into excellent. Thanks much.
I'm local 4 for 20 years and u can not get caulk wet first,you should dry tool first,I promise you after it sets up you can pull that whole caulk joint out.It looks very nice but it will not hold up.Make a video to show if it stuck to the concrete,I bet it will pull out with your hand.
@@angieiluvme Not true. First, you aren't getting the caulk wet at the joint where it adheres to the concrete. I just have a container of windex I dip my latex gloved finger in. All it does is keep the caulk from sticking to your finger or glove so it slides over smoothly and leaves a perfect finish. None of it is staying behind, puddling, or mixing with the caulk in any way to change the way it adheres to the concrete.
I'm really disappointed that you haven't done a video on those great out feed stands that you built, but I have returned to this video because it's sooo good! You're are one of the most conscientious carpenters that I've ever seen. This is how every tradesman should should treat all of his or her work. It's what makes our livelihood so satisfying and rewarding. This kind of quality work is what builds permanent relationships between the artisan and their client! By following the example that you have lead in every video that you have done, people like us will have no choice but to display the true value of the the trades. In a world of automation, we will never be replaced. You are one of the best! Do a video on those stands!!
I was about to go out and caulk my very large 3-car garage driveway and thought I'd better get advice on how to do it properly. SO glad I saw this video, or I would have made a huge mess of my project. You're the Man!!!
Matt, I love your attention to detail, there are so many people these days doing tasks like this lazy and quick. As others have stated, one of the best caulking videos ever. Keep up the good work!
I 100% agree but on the other hand now, there are so many people (customers) that do not appreciate (quality) work and the only detail they are interested in is price. 👉 (Customer) Oh just slap some caulk over it, it will be ok, the other caulk stayed on for a long time, as long as it doesn't leak water around my windows I don't care. These customers I usually walk away from if they are just price driven.
Why did it take me 60 years of doing carpentry (as an amateur) to learn this technique? Amazing. The silica sand is the best tip EVER. Hats off to you sir.
Thanks for this video. A bonus on a carpentry channel! I just did this on the expansion joint by my garage door today after watching this video a few times! A very helpful video!
So glad you were able to use this video for success on sealing your garage door expansion joint. Super thanks to YOU for showing your appreciation with a RUclips Super Thanks to the Channel. You're Super Welcome too! Best, Matrt
This is the first time I've run across Next Level Carpentry and I must say this was an excellent presentation. It was so thoroughly described and explained from beginning (supplies) to end (finished product). As a home handyman and woodworker I will certainly bookmark NLC for future reference.
Thanks Al... I'm glad you found Next Level Carpentry and rate this video 'excellent'. I don't do Instagoogletwitface so the Channel doesn't get the Social Medial exposure other channels do so I rely on sharing by viewers like you who run across it and find the content itself useful. Hope you find other videos here helpful, useful or maybe just interesting... Best, Matt
@@kevinchavez9079 it appears to me that what you do for a living is spew untruths, Kevin. Feel free to convince me otherwise by verifying how the method I show clearly in this video 'was outlawed in about 1980'?! 🤨
It case you missed him emphasizing how sticky urethane is, it's a constant battle and caulk has been known to jump 2 or 3 feet to get on you. Roofing tar can jump 5 feet from unopened can.
I'm not a professional carpenter, but my father was and my OCD makes me want to do the job better than what you get from most professionals. Videos like this are exactly what you need to do equal or better than a professional.
I wish you lived near me ...... You'd get all my project work ...... It's hard to find tradesmen who care about what they're doing ...... Thank you for this class 😁
Now that's a how-to video. Well explained and did not miss a thing. I came here to see how to tool a sealant in an expansion joint, and got exactly what I was after. Champion presenting as well.
Glad I found your channel. Trying to maintain my 100 year old house is more than a notion. It’s too expensive and frustrating to find professionals to do small tasks, so I plan to learn from you. I’m a retired professor so I say this from experience, you’re a good teacher and your advance preparation is appreciated. Thanks.
Even the Tremco rep unofficially will tell you to use a 409 type product. The issue sing 409 or soapy water is if you want to add more poly on top of what you just did. That 409 might cause an adhesion issue. BUT, almost always I dry tool, add poly if needed then 409 as final and never had an issue. Good video!!
You might be surprised to know that there's zero 'adhesion issue' when adding more urethane even after wet tooling with 409 George. Seems counterintuitive but I do it all the time with no adverse affects. Best, Matt
After the professionals left less than 14 months later it was all holes, falling in and basically garbage. Baby butt smooth seams and the silica trick yielded great finish. Reading the comments it's obvious that some folks aren't aware of the difference between turn and burn, high volume production and while there is a place and time for that method VS the long term set it and forget it or the do it right first and be done method. Slick tricks though, yielded great results. If you're like me and never place ads, never even printed business cards yet stay swamped you probably are the latter, you do the job for similar cost you save overhead and use that for better materials and all you have to do is answer your phone, if you got a sales team and coupons and adverts you might me the first in which case you might not have the time or margin to do this method which is fine but pics or it didn't happen. Enjoyed the video as always also solid technique with amazing results looked gorgeous.
Your well said comments gets "pinned" to the top of the list Gary... thanks SO much for posting it on this controversial video. Controversial with the 'turn and burn pros', that is! Best, Matt
THANK YOU! Finally! I found something that makes a ton of sense to get a perfect job and not cost an arm and a leg. Contrast this method with the expensive self-leveling stuff where: - You buy rope-like material to seal the bottom of the joint first so it doesn't all leak away. - Next you fill it with expensive self-leveling stuff that doesn't end up self-leveling as he said. - Then you do the same with sand except you need more of it because it sinks into the sand.
Wow this is a very concise, clear, demonstration of a relatively simple process of taking care of those old unsightly looking expansion joints and making them look like new. Appreciate your sharing your expertise with us. Nice job! Now it’s time for me to implement your processes on my own tired joints!
AWESOME VIDEO!!!! I must say I have watched hundreds of videos on this topic and you are by far the best speker! You speak with no interuptions like... ummm, aaaa, Hmmm. You video was very enjoyable to watch and I learned so much! I tried to do this last year and it was such a mess! I did not use the tape and you were right it went everywhere!!! I liked and subcribed to your channel gave you a thumbs up and click on the bell so i can get notified when you post more videos. Excelent work! Cant wait to see more! Jim
Welcome to Next Level Carpentry Jim... much appreciated. I've developed and used this exact process for over 20 years and think, with a little practice, you'll have much better mess free results! Best, Matt
Everything you’ve said and shown confirms all my prior research. I was all set to do this right the second time I paid for it, but the only piece I couldn’t find was the part about making it all look good. You’ve definitely provided that missing piece of the puzzle, plus numerous other great tidbits. I know it’s a lot of work, but at $300 a pop and it has only lasted a year or two, it’s well worth doing it right myself. Thank you Matt! You keep this up and I’m going to have to ‘buy you two coffees’ a month on Patreon!
Unstable concrete can lead to premature failure, James, but proper prep, materials and technique are the best chance you have for long-term success. I've done sealing projects that are still good-as-new 15+ years on and others that pull loose from extreme expansion and contraction in 5 years or so. Practice on easier, smaller, less visible areas to get the system down and you'll be a pro in no time! Best, Matt
Thanks for the very instructive video. No a Drama plain language, no unnecessary comment or profanity. Need to do chalking, similar to this except on uneven rough surfaces.
A bit lengthy but I did watch until the end I could listen to you for hours. The information is delivered incredibly well. I went from novice to pro results in 20:55. Thank you for all that you do. Ps. I love details. You nailed it.
I am a jack of all trades and a master of cosmetic construction finishes. I just want to tell you that you are by far one of the best Carpenter tapers. Taping in itself is a skill.
Thank you for the compliment! It's always nice to hear from someone who takes pride in their work especially when it's detail work that many tend to rush and leave a substandard job behind! Best, Matt
I don't know why I've never thought to use tape with caulk. I tried it with some silicone and it gave it a perfect straight line! Thanks for this video.
Matt, great video. I am a detail oriented guy and appreciate how you have precisely broken the steps into manageable sections and carried out the process unhurriedly. I am sure you have learned from past mistakes. There are millions of videos doing shabby jobs. Thank you.
Al, I have been working with urethanes for 25-30 yrs, what a universal material for so many tuff situations, it’s an amazing tool to have in the box!!!! Was so nice to see visit your channel and watch a true craftsman at work! Patience and common sense along with having pride in your craft goes along way. Had to chuckle like you at the comment about mitering the tape 😂, thought I was the only anal one that did that... the tricks I’ve learned from so many great tradesman through the years! Thanks for sharing this with so many people.u have helped a lot if the are willing to learn!
Thanks for a kind comment Tony... crazy how many so-called professionals make negative comments on this video. It takes a sensible comment like yours once in awhile to keep me from doubting my methods even though I know they're valid. I'd much rather be called Al than deal with troll comments so no worries! 😁😂😎
Finally a proper and complete video about how to do this using a sausage type gun. Great technique! That’s true professionalism... Amazing and thanks a bunch. 🤙🏽
Great video. I still use my finger on small calking jobs but on anything as long as what you were doing I use an old spoon. Gives a perfect concave shape and sharp edge. Less wear and tear on my poor chapped finger too.
What a true statement, a system that takes away the pain and misery. Your explanation of why you should not use self leveling caulk cleared up the questions I had. Job well done Matt.
I just finished a coffered ceiling in my basement,and I was about to caulk it . But I said to myself let me grab my 14 year old son and teach him how. As simple a task as it is I am going to guess by looking at a lot of peoples bathrooms and trim around their homes most people have no idea on how to do correctly. This was a great video to teach people and I even learned the sand on top of the wet caulk trick from it. I also learned from a mason years ago if your crack you are filling is deeper then normal to fill a potion of it with sand so as not to use a hole tube filling a 2 inch deep separation . Thanks for taking the time of making an excellent video.
I just did this yesterday and putting down the masking tape for a clean line made all the difference to the look of the work. The caulk is as runny as advertised. I never would have thought to do this and I am so happy I did. Don't skip this step in your prep work.
I love the detail and the explanation so that people like myself can handle a task like this and get quality professional results. I can’t see why anybody in the world would give a thumbs down to this video., If a person has the ability to explain some thing on a fifth grade level, then they are a master at it.
Another Great video...as always. You're hired! A little off topic, as this video centers around finishing, Caulking joint ratio is critical for long term success. Use a 2:1 width to depth ratio to accommodate movement. Create an "hourglass" shape for the sealant profile. Windex has always been my "soapy spray"; I'll give 409 a shot next time.
I have watched a lot of your videos and have learned a lot from you. I am a caulker by trade and usually as soon as I see any type of tooling agent I tell viewers not to use it. And the reason is they use very poor gunning technique that does not push the sealant into full contact with the joint sides.This allows the liquid to run down behind the sealant contaminating the joint.You use proper gunning technique and essentially tool the joint once while you are gunning the material. Sealing it from letting the liquid run behind it. My only issue is when you install it only in sections you should stop spraying a few inches back from where the sealant ends so you don’t contaminate the exposed bare joint side.( it is only a very small amount in the video but that will tend to cause premature failure at that spot,ultimately it may not be an issue,but why take the chance when it is so easy to avoid)You are an intelligent man and I’m sure you understand that it won’t bond well for the same reason it won’t stick to your finger. I would not use 409 but that is only because I don’t know all of its chemical ingredients. It may be fine. BTW when they say wet tooling is acceptable, this is what they mean. After the joint is sealed and only to improve appearance. I have installed miles of sealant in flat work and have seen A LOT of failures because of soapy water but it is due to improper use and contamination of the substrate before the sealant makes full contact.
You are a gentleman and a scholar! I have to say that in the years since this video was released you must be the first professional caulker to leave a sensible and well reasoned comment with insight and suggestions that help both myself and others who view this video and apply these techniques. Thank you... the sort of information you provide is an asset to the world of RUclips. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Matt you might not say that if you saw how I hammer so called experts.🤣 Just a little further insight why I would not use 409. About 15 years ago ( I’m guessing ,I’m at the age where time is relatively meaningless, Tremco started having issues with Dymonic “ reverting” ( basically turning to bubble gum after a few years. It took a while but the culprit turned out to be a caulking company wet tooling with alcohol. It seemed fine at first but it chemically altered the sealant. So I would stay away from any cleaners, just to be safe. Also you may want to check out semi self leveling sealants. That is what I use usually ,as a professional. For the most part they eliminate the problems of self leveling( sink holes, running of the edge of a sloped slab) BTW all slabs should be sloped to some extent. Additionally they are typically formulated specifically for traffic applications. Higher shore hardness.
@@genecarden780 LOL... I always enjoy interacting with others who are passionate and knowledgeable about what they do! Thing is that I've used 409 just as shown in the video for projects for myself and for clients and have had zero issues with durability, longevity or quality of the sealing job done with this method. Parts of sealed joints have failed but almost entirely from excess movement of the concrete itself, mostly from frost heaving in this part of the country, that exceeds the performance specs of even the best products. I could show you joints I did myself 20+ years ago that are still completely intact and performing well so I'll keep doing and recommending this method. I'm not a pro or specialist and understand completely that this method is not viable for most if not all commercial work but I've yet to see a better, more teach-able, more learn-able method for nearly all residential type projects. I thank you again for your well-presented viewpoint and opinions on the matter and leave it to individual viewers to evaluate and decide how they go about this sort of work. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Matt I am in no way saying 409 is not acceptable just telling you why I personally would be a little concerned. If I was teaching this method I would use soapy water. But my experience is different than yours and while I am not shy about telling people they are wrong, that is not what I’m saying to you. Like I originally said I don’t know the chemical makeup of 409
@@genecarden780 Got it... definitely gotta do what you can stand behind when working for clients when it's your name/reputation/liability on the line. During COVID when there was no 409 to be had I substituted Dawn dish soap 13% and water 87% with similar performance. Didn't give much thought to chemical differences and haven't seen any negative results. I'm a little lazy that way and went back to 409 once I could get it again to avoid having to mix up the dawn solution😒😎 Since I'm more of a woodworker there's products, tools etc in that field that I can get pretty adamant against using so I think I know where you're coming from on this topic 👍
I have recently used your method and surprisingly I am pretty darn proud, it looks great! I have a larger project coming up and hope it will looks as good as this smaller one. Thank you for your time and sharing how to do things the right way!
Don't be too surprised Terry... I imagine you're the kind of person who's able to adapt previous experience to a new skillset in fairly short order when you're shown the way... now that you've had a bit of practice you'll CRUSH that bigger job! Feel free to post links to before/after photos here if you want... Best, Matt
I was a carpenter for more than 3 decades and yes there were a lot of jobs that we did that had very little to do with wood. A little knowledge and a little skill will go a long way. Now I just like hanging out in the shop and doing what I feel like.
Your a true craftsman.do you know how hard it is to find someone like you.that delivers in what he says.also do the best job possible.i was always taught do the best job possible and you.ll never have to look for work.people will come to you.GREAT JOB
@@joseomarguerrero9077 well..if you going to watch his videos from THIS country..learn to either ignore his statements, or grow thicker skin!! This is about the LEAST offensive person I have ever seen on here!! So go sell your sasauge someplace else!
Just wanted to say thank you for the detailed video. I purchased the sausage gun, the product you showed, tape, sand, I couldn’t find the 409 so I used Simple Green. I removed the old expansion joint rotted product and resealed using your method. I did the back patio, the front walkway, and the front driveway. I did it almost everyday after work and whenever I could on the weekend. After hundreds of feet of taping, tooling and applying sand, I finished the entire project after 2.5 months!!!! 😅 I did both the expansions joints and control joints. I’m very happy with how it turned out. I’m the only house on the block with perfect sealed joints 😄😄 THANK YOU!!!!!
Good on you for sticking with it and being thorough! Thanks to for using those Amazon links... I appreciate the support. I think the satisfaction will last for you as it does for me since keeping the driveway clean and extending its useful life make all the effort worthwhile... Best, Matt
In my younger years I did a lot of caulking as a tuck pointer/brick cleaner, part of the brick layers union, mostly commercial/industrial, windows, doors, expansion joints. We used 2 part caulk in buckets with colors and hardener, and a large metal gun we sucked the caulk out of the bucket and used the appropriate tip for the joint. We always used a primer we brushed on after cleaning with compressed air. We never use masking tape, we use pointing tools to smooth, sometimes soapy water to glaze the caulk. The sand is nice for driveways. We used backing rod if the opening needed filled first. On really large jobs we pumped right out of 50 gal drums. Nice video for these small jobs but I wouldn't use masking tape. One tip, we always had plenty of rags and solvent around to keep our tips and tools clean from that sticky crap, lol.
Really appreciate this video. I wish I found this a week ago. A girl in a man’s world of home repair and upkeep! Really never knew this was needed! Wish there was a check list for this kind of stuff.
A universal "check list for this kind of stuff" would be of near infinite length. Best is to be observant of conditions in your situation and investigate/educate/address them to prepare for responsible maintenance and repair. Best, Matt
Thanks Matt for a very informative and well-presented video. I use the same technique but adding the silica is an excellent. I am an old school carpenter with a good deal of experience and still learning better ways to execute my trade skills.
Thanks for keeping this video up! I watched it a couple of years ago and remembered it was your video when I needed to do this! Your videos are always precise and to the point! You are one of the best how to creators on RUclips! Thanks Again!
Great video, and you are a great teacher who, I can tell, takes pride in his work; we all should do the same. Thx for sharing your knowledge and great talent!
This was a GREAT video!!! I dont do caulking alot. Im MUCH better at inside caulking than I use to be. Today Im doing outside caulking only for the 2nd time ever. So glad I watched this! The 409 was genius. My caulk job turned out damn near as good as yours! Thanks a million!!!!
This is probably going to sound odd.. But I've been doing strictly finish caulking for over a decade. Pre cast, brick, stone, glass, aluminum, everything. I've used every type of caulking under the sun, urethanes, silicones, self level, 1 component, 2 component. We don't use tape or our fingers to finish, we make custom tooling sticks with wood, all sizes from 1/4" to 3" wide. People are surprised to see us using oscillating cutters, grinders and chipping tools but we work on all substrates. I'm kind of glad to see people starting to take it seriously, a lot of people make fun of caulking but it is an important component to building and it's important that it's done right. 10 years ago anyone was allowed to have a gun but nowadays in Canada we have engineers inspecting all our beads and if they're not perfect...well cut it out and do it again. What you're doing looks good and it's done right, nice job. Edit: anyone that says you can't use soap and water doesn't know what they're talking about.
Caulking isn't an easy job, I am OSI silver and bronze certified , I grind down old knifes and make tools out of them , it is an art and some guy have and others don't. I also use mineral sprits. there are many different ways and tools and with the modern sealants it actually take time and skill to do it to spec
@Denis Dougherty Glad to see hear from someone else who sees the benefit/value/quality of joint sealing! The number of 'pros' who've commented on this video saying only an amateur would need this method is annoying... especially when they don't have photos to back up their assertions, right? Mitering masking tape too? Great minds think alike! Best, Matt
Too much bare finger work can be a problem, especially with hands that are pre-damaged. I've tried using inexpensive rubber-coated gloves, and thinking that soapy water might help since rubber/ vinyl/ whatever still is not flesh and has different results. THanks
I've watched 10 of these videos trying to find the best way to go about doing the job. This is by far the best, most detailed and well done. Thank you for taking the time to do this. Keep up the EXCELLENT work
Thanks for the tips. I never thought that as a right-hand person, my line approach is an important consideration. Also little details like I can remove the tape right after tooling was appreciated. I also decided to sift the play sand to remove large particles for a nicer result. Your video was a great find, for me, who will only do this DIY task once. 42 meters beigh color patio with 6.5mm x 19mm scored concrete - Canada
I truly do try to be as precise as you. I told my wife I would love to work along side you to learn from you... The cool thing is that it feels that way after watching your videos. Thank you for the time you put into making these videos because I really do learn alot from you. Thank you.
You're welcome for the time I spend 'building' videos Malcolm... knowing that viewers like you learn and appreciate the effort is quite rewarding! Best, Matt
A master craftsman at work. Kind of a under appreciated task some might say requires not much skill but as one can see , experience at work. Don't mistake efficiency for shortcuts. Whatever this man charges for his work it's worth it.
Ok this is exactly the kind of video that I was looking for. You have a great demonstration and are very clear and thorough (without talking too long), and what is most helpful to me, is that you explain your mindset as you’re going through the process. Thank you so much!
You're quite welcome Daniel... give yourself a little grace when you get started to get the hang of how it feels when you're actually working through the steps and I predict you'll get excellent results too!
I searched the for a couple hours for a good tutorial on doing this but most are just stupid, nothing I found met my expectations... then luckily weeks later youtube recommends this, thanks
Thanks for sayin' Duane... I try to pack as much useful content into each video as I can here at Next Level Carpentry so I hope you find other useful videos here too! Best, Matt
You deserve to be in great demand, a professional and correct attitude to all you do and share, many thanks for your continued generosity in sharing your skills and techniques.
It's much easier to just let the urethane cure in the tip and pull it out after it turns solid than it is to try to wipe it out while it's wet. It's actually pretty amazing that it works that way.. Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry And that’s what I usually have done with standard caulking tubes, I’ll screw a drywall screw into the end of the tip and pull the plug out. That’s probably the only thing you missed in the video 😉
To reuse my partial tube of caulk at a later time, I simply peel off one of my rubber gloves when I'm done, pushing one of the fingers over the nozzle of the tube, I squeeze a little bit of caulking into that finger tip of the glove, give it a twist, and just leave it. It provides a nice cap made out of the caulking, and when I pull it off, there's fresh, soft caulk in the nozzle ready to work.
Wow! Not only an object lesson in caulking, but a masterpiece of effective instructional communication. Thank you for your wisdom and talent; you have helped me greatly!
Hey Next Level Carpentry, a very professional and succinct video, yet comprehensively covering the topic. Very well done, many thanks for posting, I learned a lot from it.
Outstanding presentation! I have done many caulking jobs around my house, but never concrete joints. Now I have a great example of how to caulk my garage door joints before the snow flies. THANK YOU!
Great video, and THANK YOU! It's great to see fine workmanship on something as mundane as concrete caulking. It's what separates the craftsman from the caveman. Tip for using self leveling caulk: use a 2 stage method where non self leveling is the first pass, with the top of it well below flush with the concrete. Once cured, come back with the self leveling pass. This prevents the self leveling from running into any voids under the cracks, which in my experience is the reason for the inconsistent results. Admittedly this single stage method shown here is so good that my idea sounds laborious. As good as this result is, when the self leveling has a good result it is magical. I should mention that of course the self leveling gives best results on level joints. Most driveways have some tilt and the lengthways joints can be too much to prevent the self leveling from pooling at the low end.
Great perspective and information James... thanks for watching and adding value to this video for other viewers by providing them with options to get the best results possible for their unique projects! Best, Matt
@@artgirl-zx2jh I apply dry sand as soon as possible after I finish tooling the sealant to prevent other dirt, dust and detritus from sticking to it first. It doesn't matter how long you leave the sand on either; once the 409 and sealant dry excess sand just blows away. In ideal circumstances though, I prefer to vacuum up excess sand in a day or two to leave a neater jobsite. Best, Matt
Great techniques. One other technique: For a perfect dry tooling process I found years ago that using a small piece of foam with a flat edge produces the same nice smooth result but much faster. I used to seal tall vertical 30’ joints in concrete tilt up buildings. There were sometimes a hundred of those joints. The foam pieces make finishing perfect and really fast. For a taped joint you just come back and lightly feather the edges to flatten that little lip the removed tape makes.
Sound good to me. How long did you have to wait for the caulk to dry before you tool it with the foam piece ? Should the foam have the same width with the joint width? Appreciate your reply.
@@diemvolz4311 I begin tooling immediately. It would help if the foam is a bit wider. When I was doing it commercially I would go to a foam factory and they would roll up a large one inch thick flat sheet and slice it into strips. I just did a pool deck and for some application like that I mask the edges with tape to get a perfect finish.
THAT WAS A GREAT VIDEO..IM A 68 YO FEMALE RETIRED NAVY NURSE..MY GRANDFATHER BUILT HIS OWN HOUSES AND BUSINESSES...SO I LEARNED FROM HIM.....I LOVE YOUR EXCELLENT TIPS...IIM IN A BRICK RENTAL .THEY USED THAT FOAM STUFF WHITE TO FILL CRACKS...LOOKS SO STUPID..I NEED TO FIX IT SOON. IM IN TEXAS SO RAIN STARTED LAST WEEK BUT ILL CATCH IT DRY IN BETWEEN AND TRY MY SKILL AT IT ....AND 409 IS GREAT..I DO WET SMOOTHING ON ALL MY CAULKING JOBS...THANKS AGAIN. 😍😍💖
Great video. I ended up with this project after take a photo of a bunny rabbit sitting on the steps leading to my driveway which looks faded and ugly lol. I have a few joints that need to be sealed using backer rod etc but your video is very helpful to seal the joint closer to the garage door…. My driveway is sloped downward.. and thanks for the tip for not using self leveling. Thanks again
Thank you for this fantastic instructional video! This is the best one I have seen. You explain everything so thoroughly and now I know how to do it the right way. I wish all contractors were as meticulous as you. It’s nice to see someone who takes pride in what they do.
It's all about reputation and warranty: I try to avoid callbacks because I get paid to do it right the first time, if I have to go back I don't get paid and I don't like that! 😉😁😎
I know EXACTLY what you mean! Not all 'professional jobs' are pathetic but plenty are... enough that I prefer to do my own... Thanks for watching and commenting here. Best, Matt
Pretty good job for a non-professional caulker. One thing needs to be mentioned. A soap solution like 409 or dish detergent/water solution will contaminate the surface if you accidentally spray it on the surface that hasn't been caulked yet. That will result in an adhesion failure. Tremco has a superior product now called Dymonic 100. It can be applied to damp, but not wet, surfaces and still retain adhesion. Best to have the substrate to be bone dry and free of dust. I don't need or use tape. 45 years of practice. It's all in how you control the tip. The sand is unnecessary but it does give it a good look and keep debris from landing on it. You're better off getting the color of the sealant to match the substrate if possible. Then if you slip and get a little caulk where you don't want it you can just wipe it up with a rag.
@@buildmotosykletist1987 Umm...yeah you can if you take the time to select the right color to match the paving. If the color you use is close to the color of the concrete the little bit of film from the sealant is barely noticeable. Ask me a question about sealants. I've got 45 (that's forty-five) years of experience. After working as a caulker for 26 years I started my own caulking company in 2001.
@@buildmotosykletist1987 Why do you need to know my company name? Do you think someone would lie about that in a video comment section like this? I have been in the sealant business for 45 years. I have my own caulking company. That's all you need to know. Take my word for it that I know what I'm talking about...or don't. Believe that you can't wipe excess caulk off of concrete if you want to. Thanks.
I notice that you are pushing the bead of caulk is pulling it also okay or do you only recommend pushing it ?
I don't really 'recommend' techniques like this but, rather, encourage viewers to see if the way I prefer to do something like this is a good fit or feel to them. Because I'm tooling this sealant AFTER dispensing I find 'pushing' the sealant in situations like this works much better, for me, to fill the joint and keep an eye on dispensing the right amount of sealant. Keep in mind thought that in most every other caulking situation I prefer 'pulling' the bead so I can use the tip of the caulk tube to do the tooling and smooth the bead as I go.
I have watched hundreds and hundreds of videos for the DIY homeowner, and this tutorial is in the top 1% of them all ! THANK YOU for taking your time to make this video, Very well presented... well filmed and well narrated. Thank You again, Sir !
I really appreciate that you'd take the time to post such a grateful comment on this video... thank you!
@@toecutter1015oh shush! 🤨
I second the original comment!!
My kind of guy..... Neat and tidy and knows what he's doing
One of the best DIY videos you will see on RUclips. Well done Matt.
Two things. The hero of this project is the debris pale. Often forgotten and underappreciated. And the sand treatment has an additional benefit of UV protection. As a handyman, I am usually the second or third guy in and when this seal fails after a decade or so. It makes my job so much more satisfying to replace a neat job like this than repairing the crime scenes I often encounter. Thanks.
"... repairing the crime scenes I often enounter." LOL!! I feel your pain, Mark! Hold the course and keep doing work you can be proud of! 😎 Best, Matt
I did exactly as you said and let me tell you,my husband was so proud of my job,thanks to you !!God bless you.
Q❤
After having watched several other videos like this where the OP is giving people horrible advice, and misinformation, it's nice to finally see you know what you're talking about. THANK YOU for restoring my faith in 'How to videos'.
I saw a completed caulking job like this about 15 to 20 years ago and haven’t seen another since then. It was stunning! I didn’t know about adding the sand after so I thought it was a special caulk. I have found caulking for stucco and I’ve used it, but it never looked this good. What I saw was perfectly uniform and placed nicely between the two sides with clean edges . I couldn’t imagine what magic the installer used to do this, but kept it in the back of my mind. NOW, I know how it was done. It’s positively beautiful! Thank you!!
Maybe you saw a sealing project I did? 😉😁😎
Best, Matt
This guy is a true professional !! Neat and clean !!
As a widow I try to do as many home projects myself so I rely on these videos. Yours are excellent for someone like myself especially showing what products to use and why. Loved it and the results are perfect. Thank you thank you.
I've been caulking as a part of my business for 20 years. The 409 trick is just what I've been needing all that time - to make what had already been "good", into excellent. Thanks much.
I've had great results with windex for years.
I'm local 4 for 20 years and u can not get caulk wet first,you should dry tool first,I promise you after it sets up you can pull that whole caulk joint out.It looks very nice but it will not hold up.Make a video to show if it stuck to the concrete,I bet it will pull out with your hand.
@@angieiluvme Not true.
First, you aren't getting the caulk wet at the joint where it adheres to the concrete. I just have a container of windex I dip my latex gloved finger in. All it does is keep the caulk from sticking to your finger or glove so it slides over smoothly and leaves a perfect finish. None of it is staying behind, puddling, or mixing with the caulk in any way to change the way it adheres to the concrete.
I'm really disappointed that you haven't done a video on those great out feed stands that you built, but I have returned to this video because it's sooo good! You're are one of the most conscientious carpenters that I've ever seen. This is how every tradesman should should treat all of his or her work. It's what makes our livelihood so satisfying and rewarding. This kind of quality work is what builds permanent relationships between the artisan and their client! By following the example that you have lead in every video that you have done, people like us will have no choice but to display the true value of the the trades. In a world of automation, we will never be replaced. You are one of the best! Do a video on those stands!!
I was about to go out and caulk my very large 3-car garage driveway and thought I'd better get advice on how to do it properly. SO glad I saw this video, or I would have made a huge mess of my project. You're the Man!!!
Matt, I love your attention to detail, there are so many people these days doing tasks like this lazy and quick. As others have stated, one of the best caulking videos ever. Keep up the good work!
I 100% agree but on the other hand now, there are so many people (customers) that do not appreciate (quality) work and the only detail they are interested in is price. 👉 (Customer) Oh just slap some caulk over it, it will be ok, the other caulk stayed on for a long time, as long as it doesn't leak water around my windows I don't care. These customers I usually walk away from if they are just price driven.
Why did it take me 60 years of doing carpentry (as an amateur) to learn this technique? Amazing. The silica sand is the best tip EVER. Hats off to you sir.
I use the Quickete Concrete caulk a lot and never thought of the silica sand either.
You're not alone.
Try a long roller rod with toilet paper on it. Keeps it from tracking on your car, etc.
Thanks for this video. A bonus on a carpentry channel! I just did this on the expansion joint by my garage door today after watching this video a few times! A very helpful video!
So glad you were able to use this video for success on sealing your garage door expansion joint. Super thanks to YOU for showing your appreciation with a RUclips Super Thanks to the Channel. You're Super Welcome too!
Best,
Matrt
This is the first time I've run across Next Level Carpentry and I must say this was an excellent presentation. It was so thoroughly described and explained from beginning (supplies) to end (finished product). As a home handyman and woodworker I will certainly bookmark NLC for future reference.
Thanks Al... I'm glad you found Next Level Carpentry and rate this video 'excellent'. I don't do Instagoogletwitface so the Channel doesn't get the Social Medial exposure other channels do so I rely on sharing by viewers like you who run across it and find the content itself useful. Hope you find other videos here helpful, useful or maybe just interesting... Best, Matt
This one just showed up for me, too, today. I need to have someone (my son?) do some work for me, and this looks like a great tutorial!
You are contaminating the caulk joint with 409 soap and water was outlawed in about 1980 I do this for a living
@@kevinchavez9079 it appears to me that what you do for a living is spew untruths, Kevin. Feel free to convince me otherwise by verifying how the method I show clearly in this video 'was outlawed in about 1980'?! 🤨
It case you missed him emphasizing how sticky urethane is, it's a constant battle and caulk has been known to jump 2 or 3 feet to get on you. Roofing tar can jump 5 feet from unopened can.
I'm not a professional carpenter, but my father was and my OCD makes me want to do the job better than what you get from most professionals. Videos like this are exactly what you need to do equal or better than a professional.
You live up to your name, "Next Level" it truly is
I wish you lived near me ...... You'd get all my project work ...... It's hard to find tradesmen who care about what they're doing ...... Thank you for this class 😁
Now that's a how-to video. Well explained and did not miss a thing. I came here to see how to tool a sealant in an expansion joint, and got exactly what I was after. Champion presenting as well.
Perfection. People may have different approaches, but you can't argue with your results. 👍
Glad I found your channel. Trying to maintain my 100 year old house is more than a notion. It’s too expensive and frustrating to find professionals to do small tasks, so I plan to learn from you. I’m a retired professor so I say this from experience, you’re a good teacher and your advance preparation is appreciated. Thanks.
We just use a spray bottle with water and a shot of dish soap like Dawn works great and cheaper than 409 great video Thx
Even the Tremco rep unofficially will tell you to use a 409 type product. The issue sing 409 or soapy water is if you want to add more poly on top of what you just did. That 409 might cause an adhesion issue. BUT, almost always I dry tool, add poly if needed then 409 as final and never had an issue.
Good video!!
You might be surprised to know that there's zero 'adhesion issue' when adding more urethane even after wet tooling with 409 George. Seems counterintuitive but I do it all the time with no adverse affects. Best, Matt
That's the nicest calk job I have ever seen. Glad to see someone take pride in their work.
Thanks for sayin', Tim... much appreciated! Best, Matt
After the professionals left less than 14 months later it was all holes, falling in and basically garbage. Baby butt smooth seams and the silica trick yielded great finish. Reading the comments it's obvious that some folks aren't aware of the difference between turn and burn, high volume production and while there is a place and time for that method VS the long term set it and forget it or the do it right first and be done method. Slick tricks though, yielded great results. If you're like me and never place ads, never even printed business cards yet stay swamped you probably are the latter, you do the job for similar cost you save overhead and use that for better materials and all you have to do is answer your phone, if you got a sales team and coupons and adverts you might me the first in which case you might not have the time or margin to do this method which is fine but pics or it didn't happen. Enjoyed the video as always also solid technique with amazing results looked gorgeous.
Your well said comments gets "pinned" to the top of the list Gary... thanks SO much for posting it on this controversial video. Controversial with the 'turn and burn pros', that is! Best, Matt
THANK YOU! Finally! I found something that makes a ton of sense to get a perfect job and not cost an arm and a leg.
Contrast this method with the expensive self-leveling stuff where:
- You buy rope-like material to seal the bottom of the joint first so it doesn't all leak away.
- Next you fill it with expensive self-leveling stuff that doesn't end up self-leveling as he said.
- Then you do the same with sand except you need more of it because it sinks into the sand.
Wow this is a very concise, clear, demonstration of a relatively simple process of taking care of those old unsightly looking expansion joints and making them look like new. Appreciate your sharing your expertise with us. Nice job! Now it’s time for me to implement your processes on my own tired joints!
What is the best 2 part epo sealer for stopping leaks that seem imopxy
AWESOME VIDEO!!!! I must say I have watched hundreds of videos on this topic and you are by far the best speker! You speak with no interuptions like... ummm, aaaa, Hmmm. You video was very enjoyable to watch and I learned so much! I tried to do this last year and it was such a mess! I did not use the tape and you were right it went everywhere!!! I liked and subcribed to your channel gave you a thumbs up and click on the bell so i can get notified when you post more videos. Excelent work! Cant wait to see more!
Jim
Welcome to Next Level Carpentry Jim... much appreciated. I've developed and used this exact process for over 20 years and think, with a little practice, you'll have much better mess free results! Best, Matt
Thanks!
Everything you’ve said and shown confirms all my prior research. I was all set to do this right the second time I paid for it, but the only piece I couldn’t find was the part about making it all look good. You’ve definitely provided that missing piece of the puzzle, plus numerous other great tidbits. I know it’s a lot of work, but at $300 a pop and it has only lasted a year or two, it’s well worth doing it right myself. Thank you Matt! You keep this up and I’m going to have to ‘buy you two coffees’ a month on Patreon!
Unstable concrete can lead to premature failure, James, but proper prep, materials and technique are the best chance you have for long-term success. I've done sealing projects that are still good-as-new 15+ years on and others that pull loose from extreme expansion and contraction in 5 years or so. Practice on easier, smaller, less visible areas to get the system down and you'll be a pro in no time! Best, Matt
Thanks for the very instructive video. No a Drama plain language, no unnecessary comment or profanity. Need to do chalking, similar to this except on uneven rough surfaces.
A bit lengthy but I did watch until the end I could listen to you for hours. The information is delivered incredibly well. I went from novice to pro results in 20:55. Thank you for all that you do. Ps. I love details. You nailed it.
I am a jack of all trades and a master of cosmetic construction finishes. I just want to tell you that you are by far one of the best Carpenter tapers.
Taping in itself is a skill.
Thank you for the compliment! It's always nice to hear from someone who takes pride in their work especially when it's detail work that many tend to rush and leave a substandard job behind! Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry .. Been fixing mistakes my whole life, A lot of my own. 🙃
@@SwampDonkey64 sounds like you earned a degree from M. I. T. too! Mistakes I've Tried that is! 😂😂😎
I don't know why I've never thought to use tape with caulk. I tried it with some silicone and it gave it a perfect straight line! Thanks for this video.
A bit of relatively inexpensive masking tape is a real game changer, that's a for-sure! 😎
Matt, great video. I am a detail oriented guy and appreciate how you have precisely broken the steps into manageable sections and carried out the process unhurriedly. I am sure you have learned from past mistakes. There are millions of videos doing shabby jobs. Thank you.
Al, I have been working with urethanes for 25-30 yrs, what a universal material for so many tuff situations, it’s an amazing tool to have in the box!!!! Was so nice to see visit your channel and watch a true craftsman at work! Patience and common sense along with having pride in your craft goes along way.
Had to chuckle like you at the comment about mitering the tape 😂, thought I was the only anal one that did that... the tricks I’ve learned from so many great tradesman through the years!
Thanks for sharing this with so many people.u have helped a lot if the are willing to learn!
Sorry about brain fart on your name Matt....
Thanks for a kind comment Tony... crazy how many so-called professionals make negative comments on this video. It takes a sensible comment like yours once in awhile to keep me from doubting my methods even though I know they're valid. I'd much rather be called Al than deal with troll comments so no worries! 😁😂😎
One of the best DIY videos I have ever seen!! Thank you Next Level Carpentry!!
Finally a proper and complete video about how to do this using a sausage type gun. Great technique! That’s true professionalism... Amazing and thanks a bunch. 🤙🏽
I bought the materials you recommended and followed the process and it turned out GREAT! And the use of 409 makes all the difference. Thank you!
Great video. I still use my finger on small calking jobs but on anything as long as what you were doing I use an old spoon. Gives a perfect concave shape and sharp edge. Less wear and tear on my poor chapped finger too.
What a true statement, a system that takes away the pain and misery. Your explanation of why you should not use self leveling caulk cleared up the questions I had. Job well done Matt.
Still helping folks 4 years on. Appreciate the video, going to put this knowledge to work in a month or so!
His advice for managing wet caulk is incredible. I liked his advice on slipping in the tip and knee protection. Need to save the knees.
This could an episode of This Old house. Well done!
I've watched maybe twelve RUclips videos on this topic, and this is by far the best quality patch I've seen.
35 plus years and I'm still learning,,,,Thanks Brother !
A true master never stops learning
I just finished a coffered ceiling in my basement,and I was about to caulk it . But I said to myself let me grab my 14 year old son and teach him how. As simple a task as it is I am going to guess by looking at a lot of peoples bathrooms and trim around their homes most people have no idea on how to do correctly. This was a great video to teach people and I even learned the sand on top of the wet caulk trick from it. I also learned from a mason years ago if your crack you are filling is deeper then normal to fill a potion of it with sand so as not to use a hole tube filling a 2 inch deep separation . Thanks for taking the time of making an excellent video.
I just did this yesterday and putting down the masking tape for a clean line made all the difference to the look of the work. The caulk is as runny as advertised. I never would have thought to do this and I am so happy I did. Don't skip this step in your prep work.
I love the detail and the explanation so that people like myself can handle a task like this and get quality professional results. I can’t see why anybody in the world would give a thumbs down to this video., If a person has the ability to explain some thing on a fifth grade level, then they are a master at it.
Another Great video...as always. You're hired! A little off topic, as this video centers around finishing, Caulking joint ratio is critical for long term success. Use a 2:1 width to depth ratio to accommodate movement. Create an "hourglass" shape for the sealant profile. Windex has always been my "soapy spray"; I'll give 409 a shot next time.
I have watched a lot of your videos and have learned a lot from you. I am a caulker by trade and usually as soon as I see any type of tooling agent I tell viewers not to use it. And the reason is they use very poor gunning technique that does not push the sealant into full contact with the joint sides.This allows the liquid to run down behind the sealant contaminating the joint.You use proper gunning technique and essentially tool the joint once while you are gunning the material. Sealing it from letting the liquid run behind it. My only issue is when you install it only in sections you should stop spraying a few inches back from where the sealant ends so you don’t contaminate the exposed bare joint side.( it is only a very small amount in the video but that will tend to cause premature failure at that spot,ultimately it may not be an issue,but why take the chance when it is so easy to avoid)You are an intelligent man and I’m sure you understand that it won’t bond well for the same reason it won’t stick to your finger. I would not use 409 but that is only because I don’t know all of its chemical ingredients. It may be fine.
BTW when they say wet tooling is acceptable, this is what they mean. After the joint is sealed and only to improve appearance. I have installed miles of sealant in flat work and have seen A LOT of failures because of soapy water but it is due to improper use and contamination of the substrate before the sealant makes full contact.
You are a gentleman and a scholar! I have to say that in the years since this video was released you must be the first professional caulker to leave a sensible and well reasoned comment with insight and suggestions that help both myself and others who view this video and apply these techniques.
Thank you... the sort of information you provide is an asset to the world of RUclips.
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Matt you might not say that if you saw how I hammer so called experts.🤣
Just a little further insight why I would not use 409. About 15 years ago ( I’m guessing ,I’m at the age where time is relatively meaningless, Tremco started having issues with Dymonic “ reverting” ( basically turning to bubble gum after a few years. It took a while but the culprit turned out to be a caulking company wet tooling with alcohol. It seemed fine at first but it chemically altered the sealant. So I would stay away from any cleaners, just to be safe. Also you may want to check out semi self leveling sealants. That is what I use usually ,as a professional. For the most part they eliminate the problems of self leveling( sink holes, running of the edge of a sloped slab) BTW all slabs should be sloped to some extent. Additionally they are typically formulated specifically for traffic applications. Higher shore hardness.
@@genecarden780 LOL... I always enjoy interacting with others who are passionate and knowledgeable about what they do!
Thing is that I've used 409 just as shown in the video for projects for myself and for clients and have had zero issues with durability, longevity or quality of the sealing job done with this method. Parts of sealed joints have failed but almost entirely from excess movement of the concrete itself, mostly from frost heaving in this part of the country, that exceeds the performance specs of even the best products. I could show you joints I did myself 20+ years ago that are still completely intact and performing well so I'll keep doing and recommending this method. I'm not a pro or specialist and understand completely that this method is not viable for most if not all commercial work but I've yet to see a better, more teach-able, more learn-able method for nearly all residential type projects.
I thank you again for your well-presented viewpoint and opinions on the matter and leave it to individual viewers to evaluate and decide how they go about this sort of work.
Best,
Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Matt I am in no way saying 409 is not acceptable just telling you why I personally would be a little concerned. If I was teaching this method I would use soapy water. But my experience is different than yours and while I am not shy about telling people they are wrong, that is not what I’m saying to you. Like I originally said I don’t know the chemical makeup of 409
@@genecarden780 Got it... definitely gotta do what you can stand behind when working for clients when it's your name/reputation/liability on the line. During COVID when there was no 409 to be had I substituted Dawn dish soap 13% and water 87% with similar performance. Didn't give much thought to chemical differences and haven't seen any negative results. I'm a little lazy that way and went back to 409 once I could get it again to avoid having to mix up the dawn solution😒😎 Since I'm more of a woodworker there's products, tools etc in that field that I can get pretty adamant against using so I think I know where you're coming from on this topic 👍
Great content.
Thanks Bro... or should I say thanks Jay? Either way I appreciate the Super Thanks 'tip'!
Best,
Matt
I have recently used your method and surprisingly I am pretty darn proud, it looks great! I have a larger project coming up and hope it will looks as good as this smaller one. Thank you for your time and sharing how to do things the right way!
Don't be too surprised Terry... I imagine you're the kind of person who's able to adapt previous experience to a new skillset in fairly short order when you're shown the way... now that you've had a bit of practice you'll CRUSH that bigger job! Feel free to post links to before/after photos here if you want... Best, Matt
I was a carpenter for more than 3 decades and yes there were a lot of jobs that we did that had very little to do with wood. A little knowledge and a little skill will go a long way. Now I just like hanging out in the shop and doing what I feel like.
Your a true craftsman.do you know how hard it is to find someone like you.that delivers in what he says.also do the best job possible.i was always taught do the best job possible and you.ll never have to look for work.people will come to you.GREAT JOB
That's the best-caulked joint I've ever seen.
Thanks Tom... cool thing is that with a bit of practice anyone, really, can get results just as good! Best, Matt
Bob Ross.. Caulking ,Sausage
Caulk gun sorry I never went to school
Here in the U.S but words misspelled
Can be offensive..
Jose Omar Guerrero r
TRUE !!!
@@joseomarguerrero9077 well..if you going to watch his videos from THIS country..learn to either ignore his statements, or grow thicker skin!! This is about the LEAST offensive person I have ever seen on here!! So go sell your sasauge someplace else!
Just wanted to say thank you for the detailed video. I purchased the sausage gun, the product you showed, tape, sand, I couldn’t find the 409 so I used Simple Green. I removed the old expansion joint rotted product and resealed using your method. I did the back patio, the front walkway, and the front driveway. I did it almost everyday after work and whenever I could on the weekend. After hundreds of feet of taping, tooling and applying sand, I finished the entire project after 2.5 months!!!! 😅 I did both the expansions joints and control joints. I’m very happy with how it turned out. I’m the only house on the block with perfect sealed joints 😄😄 THANK YOU!!!!!
Good on you for sticking with it and being thorough! Thanks to for using those Amazon links... I appreciate the support. I think the satisfaction will last for you as it does for me since keeping the driveway clean and extending its useful life make all the effort worthwhile...
Best, Matt
In my younger years I did a lot of caulking as a tuck pointer/brick cleaner, part of the brick layers union, mostly commercial/industrial, windows, doors, expansion joints. We used 2 part caulk in buckets with colors and hardener, and a large metal gun we sucked the caulk out of the bucket and used the appropriate tip for the joint. We always used a primer we brushed on after cleaning with compressed air. We never use masking tape, we use pointing tools to smooth, sometimes soapy water to glaze the caulk. The sand is nice for driveways. We used backing rod if the opening needed filled first. On really large jobs we pumped right out of 50 gal drums. Nice video for these small jobs but I wouldn't use masking tape. One tip, we always had plenty of rags and solvent around to keep our tips and tools clean from that sticky crap, lol.
Wow. I don't know why or how RUclips knew I would like this, but excellent job. Concise, and very useful. No wasted words, and excellent vocabulary.
Really appreciate this video. I wish I found this a week ago. A girl in a man’s world of home repair and upkeep! Really never knew this was needed! Wish there was a check list for this kind of stuff.
A universal "check list for this kind of stuff" would be of near infinite length. Best is to be observant of conditions in your situation and investigate/educate/address them to prepare for responsible maintenance and repair.
Best,
Matt
Thanks Matt for a very informative and well-presented video. I use the same technique but adding the silica is an excellent. I am an old school carpenter with a good deal of experience and still learning better ways to execute my trade skills.
Most Excellent! May you find joy in your learning new things and pride in your workmanship!
This has gotta be the cleanest caulk join I've ever seen!
And it only took 6hrs. ;)
Thanks for keeping this video up! I watched it a couple of years ago and remembered it was your video when I needed to do this! Your videos are always precise and to the point! You are one of the best how to creators on RUclips! Thanks Again!
Thanks... this video has proven to be the very definition of 'evergreen content' on RUclips which I'm glad to provide.
Great video, and you are a great teacher who, I can tell, takes pride in his work; we all should do the same. Thx for sharing your knowledge and great talent!
Watched the pro do mine, he "tooled' it with a round tip cake icing knife. It was a work of art.
This was a GREAT video!!! I dont do caulking alot. Im MUCH better at inside caulking than I use to be. Today Im doing outside caulking only for the 2nd time ever. So glad I watched this! The 409 was genius. My caulk job turned out damn near as good as yours! Thanks a million!!!!
You're welcome a million!
This is probably going to sound odd.. But I've been doing strictly finish caulking for over a decade. Pre cast, brick, stone, glass, aluminum, everything. I've used every type of caulking under the sun, urethanes, silicones, self level, 1 component, 2 component. We don't use tape or our fingers to finish, we make custom tooling sticks with wood, all sizes from 1/4" to 3" wide. People are surprised to see us using oscillating cutters, grinders and chipping tools but we work on all substrates. I'm kind of glad to see people starting to take it seriously, a lot of people make fun of caulking but it is an important component to building and it's important that it's done right. 10 years ago anyone was allowed to have a gun but nowadays in Canada we have engineers inspecting all our beads and if they're not perfect...well cut it out and do it again. What you're doing looks good and it's done right, nice job.
Edit: anyone that says you can't use soap and water doesn't know what they're talking about.
A video showing your finish tools would be appreciated. Caulk finishing tools are hard to come by and there are few options.
Caulking isn't an easy job, I am OSI silver and bronze certified , I grind down old knifes and make tools out of them , it is an art and some guy have and others don't. I also use mineral sprits. there are many different ways and tools and with the modern sealants it actually take time and skill to do it to spec
@Denis Dougherty Glad to see hear from someone else who sees the benefit/value/quality of joint sealing! The number of 'pros' who've commented on this video saying only an amateur would need this method is annoying... especially when they don't have photos to back up their assertions, right? Mitering masking tape too? Great minds think alike! Best, Matt
CANADA - SUCKS.
Too much bare finger work can be a problem, especially with hands that are pre-damaged. I've tried using inexpensive rubber-coated gloves, and thinking that soapy water might help since rubber/ vinyl/ whatever still is not flesh and has different results. THanks
I've watched 10 of these videos trying to find the best way to go about doing the job. This is by far the best, most detailed and well done. Thank you for taking the time to do this. Keep up the EXCELLENT work
Thanks for the tips. I never thought that as a right-hand person, my line approach is an important consideration. Also little details like I can remove the tape right after tooling was appreciated. I also decided to sift the play sand to remove large particles for a nicer result. Your video was a great find, for me, who will only do this DIY task once. 42 meters beigh color patio with 6.5mm x 19mm scored concrete - Canada
I bet you'll do great with only a little bit of practice... good luck!
I truly do try to be as precise as you. I told my wife I would love to work along side you to learn from you... The cool thing is that it feels that way after watching your videos. Thank you for the time you put into making these videos because I really do learn alot from you. Thank you.
You're welcome for the time I spend 'building' videos Malcolm... knowing that viewers like you learn and appreciate the effort is quite rewarding! Best, Matt
Man...are y'all gonna hold hands and eat some hotdogs together or what?
A master craftsman at work. Kind of a under appreciated task some might say requires not much skill but as one can see , experience at work.
Don't mistake efficiency for shortcuts. Whatever this man charges for his work it's worth it.
Ok this is exactly the kind of video that I was looking for. You have a great demonstration and are very clear and thorough (without talking too long), and what is most helpful to me, is that you explain your mindset as you’re going through the process. Thank you so much!
You're quite welcome Daniel... give yourself a little grace when you get started to get the hang of how it feels when you're actually working through the steps and I predict you'll get excellent results too!
To save on material if the joint is kind of deep....I will fill it with sillica sand and then brush it out to a uniform depth prior to caulking.
You are supposed to use closed cell backer rod
@@johnhender That will work but I think sand is better. I know it's cheaper.
Thanks for the video. Just took care of my driveway's old rotted out expansion joints and they look phenomenal thanks to you!
How the heck did you remove them? Mine are stuck completely
@@floridagirl9064 just a lot of hard work. Had to use a small chisel, pliers and elbow grease. Mine were hard plastic that had splintered and broken.
I searched the for a couple hours for a good tutorial on doing this but most are just stupid, nothing I found met my expectations... then luckily weeks later youtube recommends this, thanks
I thought I knew how to caulk. You taught me something today, Thanks.
this guys attention to detail is almost hard to comprehend
THE WAY OF GOOD' INTELLIGENT' PEOPLE.!!!!
This just might be the most helpful video I have seen for carpentry on RUclips. Well done!
Thanks for sayin' Duane... I try to pack as much useful content into each video as I can here at Next Level Carpentry so I hope you find other useful videos here too! Best, Matt
You deserve to be in great demand, a professional and correct attitude to all you do and share, many thanks for your continued generosity in sharing your skills and techniques.
Looks really good Matt.
How do you clean out the nozzle if you're not going to be caulking again anytime soon?
It's much easier to just let the urethane cure in the tip and pull it out after it turns solid than it is to try to wipe it out while it's wet. It's actually pretty amazing that it works that way.. Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry And that’s what I usually have done with standard caulking tubes, I’ll screw a drywall screw into the end of the tip and pull the plug out. That’s probably the only thing you missed in the video 😉
To reuse my partial tube of caulk at a later time, I simply peel off one of my rubber gloves when I'm done, pushing one of the fingers over the nozzle of the tube, I squeeze a little bit of caulking into that finger tip of the glove, give it a twist, and just leave it. It provides a nice cap made out of the caulking, and when I pull it off, there's fresh, soft caulk in the nozzle ready to work.
@@btbinnovationsllc6815 great tip, thanks! Best, Matt
Wow! Not only an object lesson in caulking, but a masterpiece of effective instructional communication. Thank you for your wisdom and talent; you have helped me greatly!
I like your beginning comment. A master carpenter can do everything in regards to building.
That' quite true Quietwarf but seems to escape people in an age where so many expect apps to do so much for them!🙄😎 Best, Matt
Hey Next Level Carpentry, a very professional and succinct video, yet comprehensively covering the topic. Very well done, many thanks for posting, I learned a lot from it.
Outstanding presentation! I have done many caulking jobs around my house, but never concrete joints. Now I have a great example of how to caulk my garage door joints before the snow flies. THANK YOU!
You're welcome David... just so happens I've got some driveway joint sealing to do before snow flies too😎 Best, Matt
Great video, and THANK YOU! It's great to see fine workmanship on something as mundane as concrete caulking. It's what separates the craftsman from the caveman.
Tip for using self leveling caulk: use a 2 stage method where non self leveling is the first pass, with the top of it well below flush with the concrete. Once cured, come back with the self leveling pass. This prevents the self leveling from running into any voids under the cracks, which in my experience is the reason for the inconsistent results.
Admittedly this single stage method shown here is so good that my idea sounds laborious. As good as this result is, when the self leveling has a good result it is magical. I should mention that of course the self leveling gives best results on level joints. Most driveways have some tilt and the lengthways joints can be too much to prevent the self leveling from pooling at the low end.
Great perspective and information James... thanks for watching and adding value to this video for other viewers by providing them with options to get the best results possible for their unique projects! Best, Matt
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Regarding the sand at the end, do you pour it on when wet and leave to dry or how does that work - Thanks!
@@artgirl-zx2jh I apply dry sand as soon as possible after I finish tooling the sealant to prevent other dirt, dust and detritus from sticking to it first. It doesn't matter how long you leave the sand on either; once the 409 and sealant dry excess sand just blows away. In ideal circumstances though, I prefer to vacuum up excess sand in a day or two to leave a neater jobsite. Best, Matt
Great techniques. One other technique: For a perfect dry tooling process I found years ago that using a small piece of foam with a flat edge produces the same nice smooth result but much faster. I used to seal tall vertical 30’ joints in concrete tilt up buildings. There were sometimes a hundred of those joints. The foam pieces make finishing perfect and really fast. For a taped joint you just come back and lightly feather the edges to flatten that little lip the removed tape makes.
Sound good to me. How long did you have to wait for the caulk to dry before you tool it with the foam piece ? Should the foam have the same width with the joint width? Appreciate your reply.
@@diemvolz4311 I begin tooling immediately. It would help if the foam is a bit wider. When I was doing it commercially I would go to a foam factory and they would roll up a large one inch thick flat sheet and slice it into strips. I just did a pool deck and for some application like that I mask the edges with tape to get a perfect finish.
@@toecutter1015the real professionals use foam. Caulking knife just can’t get the same perfect feathered edge on concrete.
THAT WAS A GREAT VIDEO..IM A 68 YO FEMALE RETIRED NAVY NURSE..MY GRANDFATHER BUILT HIS OWN HOUSES AND BUSINESSES...SO I LEARNED FROM HIM.....I LOVE YOUR EXCELLENT TIPS...IIM IN A BRICK RENTAL .THEY USED THAT FOAM STUFF WHITE TO FILL CRACKS...LOOKS SO STUPID..I NEED TO FIX IT SOON. IM IN TEXAS SO RAIN STARTED LAST WEEK BUT ILL CATCH IT DRY IN BETWEEN AND TRY MY SKILL AT IT ....AND 409 IS GREAT..I DO WET SMOOTHING ON ALL MY CAULKING JOBS...THANKS AGAIN. 😍😍💖
Matt, by far the best caulking video I’ve seen.
Many many thanks - love your channel 🤗
Great job Matt, I never used sand at the end of my caulking joints but that is a neat trick. All the best. Al from Maryland.
Great video. I ended up with this project after take a photo of a bunny rabbit sitting on the steps leading to my driveway which looks faded and ugly lol. I have a few joints that need to be sealed using backer rod etc but your video is very helpful to seal the joint closer to the garage door…. My driveway is sloped downward.. and thanks for the tip for not using self leveling. Thanks again
Thank you for this fantastic instructional video! This is the best one I have seen. You explain everything so thoroughly and now I know how to do it the right way. I wish all contractors were as meticulous as you. It’s nice to see someone who takes pride in what they do.
It's all about reputation and warranty: I try to avoid callbacks because I get paid to do it right the first time, if I have to go back I don't get paid and I don't like that! 😉😁😎
I had no idea how to do this job (as well as a professional) Now I do...you're a good teacher and a fine craftsman. Subscribed ✔ ✅
Cool! Thanks for the sub! Best, Matt
Great video from a real pro
Great video instructions ! Wish he can come and do my patio joints !
The best sealing method I have seen so far.
I've seen plenty too many lousy professionally installed caulk jobs in my time. NLC yours looks great to me. Great video.
I know EXACTLY what you mean! Not all 'professional jobs' are pathetic but plenty are... enough that I prefer to do my own... Thanks for watching and commenting here. Best, Matt
Beautiful. Might need to check on that fine silica sand. If might have a risk of causing lung problems with repeated use.
It's silica SAND, not silica DUST. If this stuff is a problem then anyone walking on a beach is in mortal danger😉
Pretty good job for a non-professional caulker. One thing needs to be mentioned. A soap solution like 409 or dish detergent/water solution will contaminate the surface if you accidentally spray it on the surface that hasn't been caulked yet. That will result in an adhesion failure.
Tremco has a superior product now called Dymonic 100. It can be applied to damp, but not wet, surfaces and still retain adhesion. Best to have the substrate to be bone dry and free of dust.
I don't need or use tape. 45 years of practice. It's all in how you control the tip. The sand is unnecessary but it does give it a good look and keep debris from landing on it. You're better off getting the color of the sealant to match the substrate if possible. Then if you slip and get a little caulk where you don't want it you can just wipe it up with a rag.
You can't just wipe it up on unsealed concrete or paving !
@@buildmotosykletist1987 Umm...yeah you can if you take the time to select the right color to match the paving. If the color you use is close to the color of the concrete the little bit of film from the sealant is barely noticeable.
Ask me a question about sealants. I've got 45 (that's forty-five) years of experience. After working as a caulker for 26 years I started my own caulking company in 2001.
@@chuckp_again_and_again : What's the company name? Thanks.
@@buildmotosykletist1987 Why do you need to know my company name? Do you think someone would lie about that in a video comment section like this? I have been in the sealant business for 45 years. I have my own caulking company. That's all you need to know. Take my word for it that I know what I'm talking about...or don't. Believe that you can't wipe excess caulk off of concrete if you want to. Thanks.
@@chuckp_again_and_again : Thanks, that tells us everything we need to know.
Thanks for this tutorial it is a very good lesson. I need to do this at my house and will follow your instructions to the letter! ~Pat
Over 2 M views and 4 years old still gonna say you are an expert in teaching and skill level
And all that from a carpentry channel... go figure, right? 😎
Thanks for watching and commenting on this one, Bryan... much appreciated!