The algorithm put this on my front page. Glad it did. So cool! Free engines are the best engines when you have machine tools and a shop like this haha.
The problem is that from what I can tell, there are so many people who will say that you cant do something to an engine even though they have never tried before, or seen the issue before, they are just repeating what they have heard by someone else! And likely, they person they heard it from has also never tried, or failed, they had also just heard from someone else. This is a huge issue online that I see a lot. Cool video mang, very excited to see how the thinner bores hold up under boost! Subscribed fo sho.
After reading a few of the comments, folks mentioning it heating up quickly. I'd have to argue, I don't feel it has much to do with cylinder wall thickness, as it does with the operating RPM and air flow across the radiator. Good video
@Smoketownedc I want to see another video of a 5.3 bored to 6.0 and running. Not just talk about why you can't. No disrespect meant. Thanks for watching.
@@whiteoneauto you’ll be amazed what you can find online in forums and not one RUclips. It’s been done before just do some research a lot of old folks didn’t have RUclips back then so it all online forums.
I’m very intrigued and I will be following. I’ll be interested in obvious complaints about temperature, cylinder wall thickness, and longevity under power adder. It’s always people that push the envelope that create and discover great new things! Imagine back in the early 2000’s if you told people a truck engine would make a 1000HP with a stock bottom end, they would do the same thing. I love the excitement, experimentation, determination, and most of all your reply’s to doubters. Either way it turns out we share the same passion and hobby. I would love if all of the concerns and criticism was wrong, but if it’s true then we learn and grow.
How much meat is left in those cylinder walls? Ive alwas been told you couldnt take a 5.3/4.8 block out that far. Been told cylinder walls too thin at water jackets
Easier would be to bore it and make a 5.7 like the LS1. Lots of off the shelf pistons and rods. Still leave plenty of cylinder wall thickness for good stability?
Excellent work. Put some good parts in that thing, too. Those are the exact valve covers I’d like to run on mine. Not sure I can justify the price, though. We’ll see.
All in-house. 313-264-1689. We are full service auto repair shop. Have Hunter alginment machine, Sunnen SV-15, mill and about every other piece of equipment on-site. We also program computers on-site.
I honestly didn’t know you could bore a 4.8/5.3 block to a 6.0 bore size because of the thin cylinder walls. I was scared of boring my 5.3 out to 6.0 in my truck, so I had it bored out to 5.7 and went with factory LS6 rods and cam and had the factory LS6 tune uploaded to my computer and then adjusted it for clutch fan and truck accessories. (I know an Iron Block LS1/LS6 doesn’t exist, but this would technically make it an Iron Block LS6).
nice video! cool to see it from start to finish. I've always heard people saying they want to try this but never seen anyone do it. Any idea how thick those cylinder liners are on the 4.8/5.3 blocks before and after the hone? Could this be done to an aluminum 5.3?
Same thing i seen got warm alil fast even running lean but i dident hear the fan. But this is you tube first 5.3 to 6.0, I allready walked this line lol . Motor turned out great but was very hard to keep the oil and coolant temps down after every pass. tune up was spot on fuel injected. So we pulled it out putit in the engine dyno cell and under thermal view under wot dyno pull we where seeing 260 * at the cylinders and 220 degrees at the radiator no thermo stat Griffen radiator. Plus the oil temps where close to 280. So we decided to swith it to M1 Methonal full time still warms up 197 after a run with the radiator still , fun buld but wont ever doit again the cylinders are just to thin and the time you pay at the machine shop is eaiser just to go 6.0
No not really. It’s almost 100* ambient and the engine is 1800-2500 RPM and being lean. Granted if you are not experienced with actually doing this type of thing you could come to that conclusion or assume… but no. Nothing but normal here.
@@baby-sharkgto4902 I could go on about experiencing different ls builds but I digress I’m not knocking the build I just stated I’ve been there done that and shared my results. You tube mechanics seem to get in their feelings too much. But good luck with the build it will be nasty on boost
I would love 2 know what u know. I work in a collision center and I can do body work but I would love to learn how to build an engine bc I would love to build a bad ass engine to put in a car or truck!
yes they are. Only problem was that the 4.8/5.3 variants of those blocks almost ALWAYS over heated because the cylinder walls were so think, the coolant could not make the trip through the block and carry enough heat out that the engines would last for any respectable amount of time. and honestly, these 4.8/5.3's can be bored to 6.0 but not for power adder use because the bottoms of the cylinders are too thin to take any moderate amount of abuse. They will hold up fine for daily driver/commuter type duty or regular truck duty, but you go to beating on one of these too hard and suddenly your pan will have chunks in it. Like the saying goes, just cause you CAN do it, does not mean you SHOULD do it!!
We bored and honed plenty 5.3 to 5.7 never bored and 5.3 to 6.0 when lingfilter was alive he said u can do if u sonic check block but they are few and far between for good cores And we done plenty 6.0 to 6.2 We sonic checks 6.0 iron block that bored and honed to 6.2 size to see if we could do 4.125 look do able but the thin cylinders do half block fill and stay naturally aspirated
That's not really uncommon, at least with the aluminum 5.3 blocks. Guys use the aluminum 5.3s to build 416 and 427s. Of course, this is done by cutting the old sleeves out and installing new ones. the TSP short block that was in Cleetus, Leeroy had one. I know someone will say they were made from ls2 and ls3 blocks, which isn't wrong, however the small bore blocks were used just as much because they are easier to acquire. I mean physically all the blocks are the same, I'm not sure why more people don't over bore the steel 5.3 blocks, only thing I can imagine is the cost of the machining process... Not like the bore spacing is any different.
I dont belive the problem with a 4.00" bore in a "5.3" block is that it will not work at all, its that it wont work for very long. Many people have had their sleeves and blocks sonic checked. Although there is variation in the liner thickness, in some places it gets as thin as .125" 4 - 3.780 = .220" ÷ 2 = .110". That means, in places, your sleeve could only be .015" thick. Not going to last long, especially on a high compression and/or nitrous/boosted application
The fact that he's attempting to do it , is awesome within itself, and if it does heat up who cares he own his own machine shop and the 5.3 was free, just enjoy content and haters stfu
@mikeevans2986 Just because a old throw away junkyard 5.3 block was free, doesn't mean the rest of that engine is. You know those heads alone are $2-3k? It's not about good/bad content, it's about misinformation. My point is, it isn't proven yet, so it's not wise to tell your viewers it's totally fine to do.
U will be running into cooling issues by boring 5.3 to a 6.0. at that point the cylinder wall to water jacket will thin.... The biggest u can go with a 5.3 is to a LS1 bore. Which is 346 cubic inches. Been there done that.
@whiteoneauto Nice!!!!!! Cool deal!!!! They bored my 6.2 out to 4.085". They checked it and said it's good. I'm running it N/A I am not building a race car so I'm not too worried about It. Some burnouts for sure. It's a temp engine till I do a Gen4 5.3 block to 4.125. But that's definitely down the road.
You need to be honing with a torque plate. that way you get the same metal distortion as with a head on the block. Also, that timing set wont work if you are using a front cam sensor like any 58x/4x setup runs.
You need to get a profilometer. And a sonic tester. Lol. Measuring across the cylinder walls has nothing to do with cylinder wall thickness. Obviously, if the bore space is the same, taking a 4.8 to a 4" bore will give you the same distance between the bores. That doesn't mean it's a 6.0.
The algorithm put this on my front page. Glad it did. So cool! Free engines are the best engines when you have machine tools and a shop like this haha.
Thanks for watching.
You just raised the value of the 4.8/5.3’s. They won’t be affordable anymore lol.
LOL, right, thanks for your support.
@@whiteoneauto Are you located in Michigan
@@RonnieQualls-wy1lp 12245 Harper Detroit MI 48213 call 313-264-1689
So any 5.3 iron block is good. Are we sure it want have cooling issues
I was looking to see what was the actual power numbers because I want to do this asap guess could do it to a 4.8 as well
The problem is that from what I can tell, there are so many people who will say that you cant do something to an engine even though they have never tried before, or seen the issue before, they are just repeating what they have heard by someone else! And likely, they person they heard it from has also never tried, or failed, they had also just heard from someone else. This is a huge issue online that I see a lot.
Cool video mang, very excited to see how the thinner bores hold up under boost! Subscribed fo sho.
Thanks for your support. Good things to come.
The problem is the water jacket stepdown is already thin in that area, needs to be Sonic tested
I had no idea you had that capability in your shop. Great display of your skillset.
Thanks for your support.
After reading a few of the comments, folks mentioning it heating up quickly. I'd have to argue, I don't feel it has much to do with cylinder wall thickness, as it does with the operating RPM and air flow across the radiator. Good video
Bo Builds did this experiment on YT 4 years ago. Glad some more people are thinking outside the box. Engine gonna be a beast
@Smoketownedc I want to see another video of a 5.3 bored to 6.0 and running. Not just talk about why you can't. No disrespect meant. Thanks for watching.
@@whiteoneauto you’ll be amazed what you can find online in forums and not one RUclips. It’s been done before just do some research a lot of old folks didn’t have RUclips back then so it all online forums.
@Smoketownedc oh yeah cuz everyone was honest in online forums, not like RUclips. 🙄
Glad this came across my feed today. Up here at 10 Mile.
Subscribed for more content in the future.
Thanks
I’m very intrigued and I will be following. I’ll be interested in obvious complaints about temperature, cylinder wall thickness, and longevity under power adder. It’s always people that push the envelope that create and discover great new things! Imagine back in the early 2000’s if you told people a truck engine would make a 1000HP with a stock bottom end, they would do the same thing. I love the excitement, experimentation, determination, and most of all your reply’s to doubters. Either way it turns out we share the same passion and hobby. I would love if all of the concerns and criticism was wrong, but if it’s true then we learn and grow.
Thanks for watching.
Your a talented mechanic
Thanks for watching.
How much meat is left in those cylinder walls? Ive alwas been told you couldnt take a 5.3/4.8 block out that far. Been told cylinder walls too thin at water jackets
Easier would be to bore it and make a 5.7 like the LS1. Lots of off the shelf pistons and rods. Still leave plenty of cylinder wall thickness for good stability?
@WorldofTon true we wanted to do what people say you couldn't, and then the Ls3 heads with big valves are icing on the cake. Thanks for watching.
HARD WORK HAS BEEN GOOD TO YOU, NO ILLUSIONS FOR WISHERS !
Thanks for watching.
Awesome deal!!!!!
Excellent work. Put some good parts in that thing, too. Those are the exact valve covers I’d like to run on mine. Not sure I can justify the price, though. We’ll see.
Thanks 👍
She is sounding great!!!
Thanks.
So you do machine work like cam bearings, hone and boring cylinders in house
Asking because I ride by your shop at least 3 times a day never knew you had this going on in the shop
All in-house. 313-264-1689. We are full service auto repair shop. Have Hunter alginment machine, Sunnen SV-15, mill and about every other piece of equipment on-site. We also program computers on-site.
@@whiteoneauto you there now imma pull up
@@rongosick4546 313-264-1689
I honestly didn’t know you could bore a 4.8/5.3 block to a 6.0 bore size because of the thin cylinder walls. I was scared of boring my 5.3 out to 6.0 in my truck, so I had it bored out to 5.7 and went with factory LS6 rods and cam and had the factory LS6 tune uploaded to my computer and then adjusted it for clutch fan and truck accessories. (I know an Iron Block LS1/LS6 doesn’t exist, but this would technically make it an Iron Block LS6).
Thanks for watching.
Awesome job man..
@looneytunes307 Thanks. Glad you enjoyed.
New subscriber!!🔥🔥🔥
Thanks for your.
What mufflers are you running on that setup - they sound great!
Flowmaster 10 series muffler. Thanks for watching.
Machine shop I normally go to has been doing these for NA daily driver folks for 2 years+
Thanks for watching.
nice video! cool to see it from start to finish. I've always heard people saying they want to try this but never seen anyone do it. Any idea how thick those cylinder liners are on the 4.8/5.3 blocks before and after the hone? Could this be done to an aluminum 5.3?
I plan to do an aluminum block soon. Thanks for watching.
You won’t get to 4” bore with an alum 5.3 and still have cylinder liners…..
That's what I wanted to know????.
And is that a 5.3 crank or 6.0
Hows the water jacket step down?
Look how fast it’s heating up!
I don’t think it’ll last but sure be nice if it did!
Can’t wait for the next vid
Thanks for watching.
Same thing i seen got warm alil fast even running lean but i dident hear the fan.
But this is you tube first 5.3 to 6.0, I allready walked this line lol . Motor turned out great but was very hard to keep the oil and coolant temps down after every pass. tune up was spot on fuel injected. So we pulled it out putit in the engine dyno cell and under thermal view under wot dyno pull we where seeing 260 * at the cylinders and 220 degrees at the radiator no thermo stat Griffen radiator. Plus the oil temps where close to 280.
So we decided to swith it to M1 Methonal full time still warms up 197 after a run with the radiator still , fun buld but wont ever doit again the cylinders are just to thin and the time you pay at the machine shop is eaiser just to go 6.0
No not really. It’s almost 100* ambient and the engine is 1800-2500 RPM and being lean. Granted if you are not experienced with actually doing this type of thing you could come to that conclusion or assume… but no. Nothing but normal here.
@baby-sharkgto4902 Good point. Thanks for your support.
@@baby-sharkgto4902 I could go on about experiencing different ls builds but I digress
I’m not knocking the build I just stated I’ve been there done that and shared my results. You tube mechanics seem to get in their feelings too much.
But good luck with the build it will be nasty on boost
Can this be done to the aluminum 5.3 or the LS1?
We are building 5.3 now.
Mass air flow sensor it will stay on with you touching the idle screw
Thanks for watching.
I’ve read that some 5.3 blocks also have 6.0 marked on the side. Those are the ones that will go to a 4 inch bore.
I have never seen one and would love if one made a video with one. Thanks for watching.
Cool build brother but noticed you aren’t using knock sensors or did I miss that somewhere?
@lamboferruccio not for racecar engine with aggressive camshaft. Just get the tune right.
@@whiteoneauto well alrighty then 👀
Is there any benefit to using a 5.3 to make a 6.0?
Will it run the possibility of running hot?
@davij2727 Just to say you did it and the block was free to me.
It would have been nice to see the actual work being done.
@jjohnson479 Point taken. Thanks for watching.
Cool stuff God bless Jesus is King
Thanks for watching.
Wonder how much weight you dropped boring it that far over?
Excellent point. I didn't weight block before and after, but I will next time. Thanks for the very valid point.
Can you bored into a 4.065? On 5.3 then
I'm not sure. Thanks for watching.
I would love 2 know what u know. I work in a collision center and I can do body work but I would love to learn how to build an engine bc I would love to build a bad ass engine to put in a car or truck!
@davidtroia7573 if you can get the parts clean & organized and have patience because things don't always go as planned. You will be fine. Get started.
Some of the early blocks are stamped 4.8/5.3/6.0
yes they are. Only problem was that the 4.8/5.3 variants of those blocks almost ALWAYS over heated because the cylinder walls were so think, the coolant could not make the trip through the block and carry enough heat out that the engines would last for any respectable amount of time.
and honestly, these 4.8/5.3's can be bored to 6.0 but not for power adder use because the bottoms of the cylinders are too thin to take any moderate amount of abuse.
They will hold up fine for daily driver/commuter type duty or regular truck duty, but you go to beating on one of these too hard and suddenly your pan will have chunks in it.
Like the saying goes, just cause you CAN do it, does not mean you SHOULD do it!!
We bored and honed plenty 5.3 to 5.7 never bored and 5.3 to 6.0 when lingfilter was alive he said u can do if u sonic check block but they are few and far between for good cores
And we done plenty 6.0 to 6.2
We sonic checks 6.0 iron block that bored and honed to 6.2 size to see if we could do 4.125 look do able but the thin cylinders do half block fill and stay naturally aspirated
I agree. Thanks for watching.
What did you use for a piston coating?
One cylinder is 0.005 over 4.00". The piston is coated to make it fit with correct clearance. Thanks for watching.
No piston slap.
I understand why you did it. I wanted to know what product you used.
@largesfc my bad LINE2LINE coatings did the piston. They work great.
Depending where you are going to spin it, it is hard to beat the ugly tricl intake.
Thanks for watching.
Any update on this?
Soon, it will be in the chevelle.
@whiteoneauto I can't wait! Lol I have an lm7 I'm trying to figure out what to do with. It's in a 944 rn but I want more cubes.
6.0 rods or 5.3 ?
@adamreynolds1851 both 5.3 and 6.0 use the same rods and crank. This has gen 4 rods.
That's not really uncommon, at least with the aluminum 5.3 blocks. Guys use the aluminum 5.3s to build 416 and 427s. Of course, this is done by cutting the old sleeves out and installing new ones. the TSP short block that was in Cleetus, Leeroy had one. I know someone will say they were made from ls2 and ls3 blocks, which isn't wrong, however the small bore blocks were used just as much because they are easier to acquire. I mean physically all the blocks are the same, I'm not sure why more people don't over bore the steel 5.3 blocks, only thing I can imagine is the cost of the machining process... Not like the bore spacing is any different.
I dont belive the problem with a 4.00" bore in a "5.3" block is that it will not work at all, its that it wont work for very long. Many people have had their sleeves and blocks sonic checked. Although there is variation in the liner thickness, in some places it gets as thin as .125" 4 - 3.780 = .220" ÷ 2 = .110". That means, in places, your sleeve could only be .015" thick. Not going to last long, especially on a high compression and/or nitrous/boosted application
Thanks for watching.
Why not just use a 6.0 block the money u spend on getting all the work done to the block u can buy a junk yard 6.0
@@ASETECH1978it’s an experiment and he obviously did all of the work in house so it basically cost him nothing
The fact that he's attempting to do it , is awesome within itself, and if it does heat up who cares he own his own machine shop and the 5.3 was free, just enjoy content and haters stfu
@mikeevans2986 Just because a old throw away junkyard 5.3 block was free, doesn't mean the rest of that engine is. You know those heads alone are $2-3k? It's not about good/bad content, it's about misinformation. My point is, it isn't proven yet, so it's not wise to tell your viewers it's totally fine to do.
Amennn Amennn
Thanks for your support.
@@whiteoneauto you’re welcome
U will be running into cooling issues by boring 5.3 to a 6.0. at that point the cylinder wall to water jacket will thin.... The biggest u can go with a 5.3 is to a LS1 bore. Which is 346 cubic inches. Been there done that.
Thanks for watching.
@@whiteoneauto Prove him wrong dammit! Put that bad boi in the Chevelle and go for a cruise
@@sstevocamaro yes sir.
Can it be safely bored ro 4 oh.
Yes.
@whiteoneauto Nice!!!!!! Cool deal!!!! They bored my 6.2 out to 4.085". They checked it and said it's good. I'm running it N/A I am not building a race car so I'm not too worried about It. Some burnouts for sure. It's a temp engine till I do a Gen4 5.3 block to 4.125. But that's definitely down the road.
6.2 = 4.065 so u went 20 over okay
5.3 gen4 with dart sleeve sure on 4.125
4.0055 huh
Nothing new here, some blocks were stamped with all three bore sizes so many have been checked and built over the years...
Thanks for watching.
You need to be honing with a torque plate. that way you get the same metal distortion as with a head on the block.
Also, that timing set wont work if you are using a front cam sensor like any 58x/4x setup runs.
Thanks for watching.
You need to get a profilometer. And a sonic tester. Lol.
Measuring across the cylinder walls has nothing to do with cylinder wall thickness. Obviously, if the bore space is the same, taking a 4.8 to a 4" bore will give you the same distance between the bores. That doesn't mean it's a 6.0.
I thought he said in the video that he knows this isn't an accurate way to measure it, he was just giving an example. I could be wrong though.
you can see its stil a 5.3 block
Thanks. I'm glad you could tell.