The worst PTSD memory I have of that is holding flashlight while my father put new drive belt on torque converter on late 60's snowmobile while temperature below zero and pitch black night
@@davyhill23 For me, it was two teen girls 'charming' me into repairing something under the dash of their vehicle. When the drop light landed on my face the 3rd time, I asked them to please stop helping.
Back in 1962 I remember going to the Kansas State Fair and there was a booth there with a guy demonstrating a similar looking device that he said would improve engine performance. Never heard of anyone actually using one though.
I put the same thing in my 69 Chev 327 when I put it on solid cable and Bakelite ends to go with the Mallory Dual-Point Rev-Pol (OK, and Mallory coil lol).
There was a "Spark Booster" that looked very similar as well, Loaded up the ignition coil by a bigger gap, so that when it did jump the gap it had more energy Snake Oil Marketing
@@davidkepley4396Back in 1962. I consider myself old and wasn’t even born yet back then 😉. Love your comment though, tx! Today similar ‘enhancement’ products are sold as OBD2 plugs. Not much has changed.😁
The bolt with the distinctive dimple is called a 'place bolt'. They are designed so that the circumferance of the bolt deforms and effectively locks the bolt in place. They are typically used to lock flywheels in place and are onetime use bolts - or fix them with red loctite. Love your channel.
Hi I'm a flathead guy and you are the first people I have seen remove the intake valve guides by pushing down with a lever down the port. I've been doing it like that for quite a while and thought I was the only one. Re the crack I will watch out to see what you do with it. The other place you should check is around the pan rails. Many a flathead has been lost by cracks there due to freezing. The water jacket extends all the way down to the pan rail unlike most other motors. All the best, Mart in England.
It's so cool watching an older guy with loads of experience passing his knowledge on to his very well educated son. Love it. [EDIT] Thanks guys. Not an engineer, me, so it all comes down to the customer.
Don’t they call the old guy the ‘apprentice’ or the cleaner? 🤣 I fully agree, it’s just fantastic to see extremely knowledgeable people at work and explaining what they’re doing and why. 👌
@@ricksmith4736I completely agree with you and many millennials wish they had parents like this who actually gave a shit about them and loved them. See the problem isn’t that millennials hate their parents actually quite the opposite , most millennials love their parents its just very unfortunate that many (not all) boomer parents don’t really love their children. The boomers are the first generation in American history to have actively sabotage their children generation from government policy ( they are responsible for running the US debt up for their short term gains over their entire lives, they are also the generation (specifically the wealthy segment) responsible for selling out American industrial might to oversee’s again for their own short term gain. The real irony is how the boomers are the ones comparing the most about how terrible this country is becoming yet are the one who are completely responsible for the current state the country is in since they have been at the wheel for a very long time now ( they are the largest generation in American history and are the strongest cohort). Unfortunately many boomer parents have purposefully sabotage their children on top of all the other things i already pointed out (the larger uncontroversial sociological phenomenon that has been observed), many boomers are sociopathic and narcissistic and have made sure they are not leaving their children anything (and I’m not saying anyone is entitled to anything, but a reminder the conversation is about children and the legacy you leave.). And not only have many wealthy boomers have made sure not leave anything for their children by blowing all their money on frivolous materialistic possessions many throughout their children’s life have actively made sure to hurt their children and make sure they do not have life better than they did. I say all of this not as someone who is in this position (I’m poor and was never getting anything from my parents, but i did have a sociopathic and narcissistic parents, especially my father who was abusive, which was unfortunate to me when i was younger since i always wanted to have a healthy relationship with him, but as you get older you learn and realize sometimes that’s just not possible and whatever i didn’t experiment personally I certainly I have seen first hand via all my friends growing up and to this day all of the things i listed above about the boomers more often then not, which agin is unfortunate bc my generation (the millennials) almost all love their parents but for a large majority it isn’t possible bc their parents don’t love them, they only love themselves. Where in the past generations would talk about pregnancy as a surprise or unplanned, the boomers were the first generation in mass to have children to maintain their social standing in their immediate communities/in society as well as to function as serving the image they want ppl to see them portrayed as ie successful, a family man and so on, so essentially many boomers never wanted children but only had them so they could use them to further their goals. Which in this case meant completing their “image” in society. So many millennials were nothing more than an accessory to their parents, which later would become a nuisance/ something stopping them from living their lives doing whatever they want whenever they want. Which than would turn into resentment. I can’t tell you how many of my friends parent resented them for existing and its not like these kids were anywhere close to be bad kids or anything like that. Its simply that their parent sucked, and agin I wouldn’t be saying this a pattern if i hadn’t seen it so prevalent amongst my generation. like you’d expect their to be some shitty ppl in every generation just as a basic distribution among the population but after seeing parent after parent being a shitty person you start to look deeper to see if there is something in common that their generation has to explain their behavior and there most certain;y is logical explanations… cheers
RE: Crack. IF a replacement block can't be found, and I know they're out there, I'd try to repair this one. I'd wager there's a number of us who'd like very much to get a good view of the process and result! Good stuff, guys. Appreciate it! "D"
@@michaelstrafello7346 I quit watching him a while back. It seemed like every video, he was just opening packages of random crap he bought off the internet.
Ive seen machinists drill each end of the crack, tap the holes, insert a machine screw, then string together machine screws the full length of the crack!
Everything Jim does reminds me of My father. I'm 70 now, but pop taught me the dirty business of machine work and auto repair. Hold the light there! Horrible nights when we would repair one or the other's cars half the night...Just to impress him, I walked a VW body over a chassis with the engine and stick in place and bolted it up before he returned from work. Prussian blue oil paint on the valves...thank you so very much to both you and my father, saved me a million over the years.
I held the flashlight for my Dad as well, but more in the building trades than mechanics. My sons later held the flashlight for me, rolling their eyes the whole time from sheer boredom.
My Dad had me change the water pump on his 55 Pontiac V8. He was a big man and couldn't reach down to do the job. So he coached me through the job. That was pretty cool for this 12 or 13 year old gearhead.
The silvery oil is not likely to be due to leaded fuel but instead you will probably remember that about the time it was parked, graphite infused oils were the big thing for performance and reduced wear! Mobile, STP and Arco were some of the ones I remember being displayed in the shops I learned in. My first vehicle was a 52 Ford Pickup with a Flathead V8 when I was 17 (54 now). Love seeing you guys work on them. Good memories of learning the mysteries of ICE motors!!! Thanks for the stroll down Memory Lane!
Oh you kids! I remember the graphite oil craze, but what they are seeing really looks like lead residue from gas. They might be calling it silvery, but it's actually a pasty gray color. The light colored vowel heads are also kind of the sign of the use of leaded fuel. The exhaust valves ran hotter and would collect fuel deposits. The lead sludge sometimes would accumulate within 10 to 15,000 mi, even with frequent oil changes. The lead was, no surprise, heavy and would settle out of the oil.
I tried it once in my Buick Special and the hydraulic lifters became noisy, so I drained it out and put conventional oil in. Never used oil with graphite again.
Graphite oil worked well. Until it didn't. Enough oil coming up past worn rings,it would short the plugs. Multiple oil changes required and many plugs ruined all the way up the porcelain. The graphite would adhere well to rough cast iron surfaces in the casting,only slowly working its way into the new oil. Used the stuff myself in a one ton Ford,no problems but I switched brands to Shell Rotella on advice of a guy I trusted ,once the engine was high mileage. Turned out to be a good choice. The shop that pulled the engine apart in front of me said he had never seen one that clean.
I love you too sharing knowledge. When I was running the streets and getting in trouble, I had a friend who took me under his wing and taught me about engines and automotive repair. Years later as an Aircraft Mechanic of 45 years and now retired I still remember what he taught me as I do repairs on the farm!
I love watching this father & son team work together. It’s just something so sacred & honest, that you cannot recreate. Sr.’s experience & his on-the-point commentary speaks for itself in volumes. The “Knowledge” implicit in every one of these videos is all-too-obvious. Watch carefully & LEARN ! & ENJOy motorheads worldwide!
The "Riding with Alex Taylor" channel bring an fairly similar vibe and relation between generations, also based on tech knowledge and cars. Dad got the huge experience, while Alex understand all the modern computerized tech and they have huge respect for each other. Like they (with help from Alex' fiancé) made DIY designed cast aluminium parts for an hotrod in the shop, combining old fashion sand casting technique with 3D printing.
@@Dave5843-d9mit’s not in the last place you can look. It’s always in the last place you look. It’s a smartass saying moreless. Once you find what you’re looking for you’ll no longer be looking. Hench the it’s always in the last place you look saying
I have a ‘53 Mercury flathead block on an engine stand that’s been in my parents basement for over 40 years. It was a project I started in high school that I didn’t finish. The block has been cleaned and magnafluxed, no cracks. If you decide to not pursue a repair, I would be happy to part with this block as my parents have recently passed and I need to get rid of it (and all the associated parts)
At first I thought I would just fast forward through the video to see the results, but two minutes in I was hooked and watched the whole video!!! Very good information, you guys are the best builders and machinists on the tube!!! Thank you! Can’t wait for the results.
It's got a mixed matched distributor and timing cover. The aluminum timing cover is correct for the Mercury, but also had an aluminum distributor with it. It had a shaft that protruded past the gear that ran in that extra guide in the timing cover. The cast distributor does not have that because it was meant for the cast iron cover. As far as the crack, stitch it up with cast plugs and sleeve the cylinder. Run adjustable lifters and drill the lifter bores to stick a pick in to make adjusting easier. Run an aluminum timing gear instead of the fiber gear. Just a few hints. Have fun!
I am 81 and live in New Zealand. This motor reminds me of my extreme youth and a 1936 Dodge Car my father had. It suffered from Carbon knock, and he and I worked on it to remove carbon from the head, the pistons and the valves, That was in 1954 and it ran until my mates and I killed it in 1959. It greatest problem was in carburetor and trying to get the air/fuel mix right. It was a problem all of the years we had it, and we only bought it because after the War in NZ you simply could not get new cars and to a lesser extent parts. This is a great project, and I look forward to the progress you make with it. Regards to all.
Six minute mark you ask about the coil wire. The in-line piece might be RFI (radio frequency interference) suppressor. Later cars built the RFI suppression into each spark plug wire. 👍🏽 Another great video guys
This takes me back to the days in the shop. One of my best friends knew everything about engines, and taught me quite a bit. When he was tearing something down and came across something he’d never seen he would come get me and show me what he found. I love the history!
I have done several of that exact repair on Ford Flatheads using the metal stitching. That crack will go right through the valve seat too. But the engine can be saved.
I vote for Locknstich also. I have never seen a block repaired cracked like this one using Locknxtich but I believe it can be done and I would _Realy_ like to see it. Thanks for all the great videos.
I have been welding cast iron for many years, CIG welding supplies Australia makes machinable cast iron welding rods, they are pretty expensive but worth it. You have to heat the metal, weld, cool it overnight in lime powder.
Boy you guys are making me feel OLD. I turned 15 in 1970 and the following summer my summer job was on a farm and involved driving a 57 Ford pickup with a flathead 8 I imagine it was parked after that summer. Hard to believe those good memories are 53 years old.
As a 54-year old gear head who loves this stuff and put together a couple dozen cars in my life, I find this so interesting even though I'm no engine builder and always had that big work done for me. I respect and love all these real-deal machinists who really know their shit😊
Hey Jim, so glad you have WILLING and SMART young man, your son, to absorb your VAST KNOWLEDGE to carry on w/the integrity of your business!! Us older GEAR HEADS love to see this type relationship, you both very fortunate. Mike from Delaware is VERY GRATEFUL to ya BOTH!
ive fixed a similar crack before with tapered pins, hardened valve seats and a sleeve. these old flatheads are getting harder to find and without cracks and would make them a unicorn especially since i think they were factory installed
Really enjoy watching you two work together! You have a special relationship that adds greatly beyond the mechanical theme of your videos. I’d like to see you repair the block if possible.
My dad wasn't around when I was growing up but I had my grandpa and this reminds me of those times we were trying to fix stuff together. I miss that very much. Thanks for such a cool video!
My father passed about 16 years ago, we would always talk about projects that I had going on the farm and life. Still miss him, don't take the time you have now for granted
"I'll get to it" I said that when I parked the wife's VW in the garage 25 years ago. And I finally did when I retired! It's on the road and running great!
Ive been playing that game on and off and it sucks, no garage to work out of so it sits out side, pulled the trans off two days ago now I need to pull the block, already have the head off n need to replace the engine the block should still be good but hurricane Debby is fuckin all that up for me right mow
"Ran when parked" I once saw a Honda CB500 twin running with a cherry red engine, guy was a stunt driver and didn't realize that the coolant system blew. Once he parked, that engine welded itself solid. So technically it ran when parked.
Same issue with air cooled 2 stroke 50cc moped I had. Ran for it for very long time and the piston started to seize while driving. Also happened with much later Yamaha XJR 400 oil cooled driving too slow and it started to seize. Had to speed up to cool it off. Chainsaws can also seize up if run hard and stop it too soon.
@@Frank-Thoresen Good idea to NOT run out of fuel in the middle of a big cut ....... You can see and hear the fresh fuel boiling when you drop it into the empty tank........ just think of all those explosive fumes drifting over the hot engine and muffler....
I was learning to wrench under my dad, who was an excellent mechanic. I don't recall why, but I was on the floor of a 60s Olds (maybe having replaced a headlight switch) after doing a tune up. Instead of getting back up, onto the seat to start it, I reached up to the key, then pressed on the gas with my hand. The throttle stuck, and the engine started knocking. I thought for sure I had spun a bearing insert. My dad came out, revved it up to about 1500 and poured cold water down the carb. The knock completely cleared up. Carbon knock tended to happen when road testing a fresh tuneup (maybe when including a valve adjustment--I don't remember). Basically, the increased combustion efficiency semed to jar the carbon loose.
This rings a bell. I knew a guy who rigged up to slowly introduce water into his engine as it ran along. To cut a very long story short the result, among other things, was that the carbon that usually builds up in the upper cylinder area completely cleaned off, leaving the upper cylinder area and spark plugs looking brand new. Engine power and petrol economy boosted also. Interesting, eh.
I believe the hollow bolt heads act as a spring, flexing slightly when properly torqued. This was common in flywheel fasteners for decades. It resists loosening.
I have a '38 Caddy flathead like that... Ran until '59, then my grandfather would start it once per month until he got cancer in the 70s. I inherited it about 20 years ago. It's currently my retirement plan.
This is without a doubt the best RUclips channel I have ever watched when it comes to explaining what you are doing and why. You guys should definitely try and fix that old block for no other reason other than to see if it can be done.. thanks for all the great content and keep it coming...
I really enjoy watching your videos. I always learn something, always have at least a chuckle. However, the best part is the father/ son interactions, subtle ribbing, obvious respect. Thanks for sharing. Cheers
A MLS head gasket from a J30 Honda engine sliced my left hand to the bone and did it so quickly that it really didn’t hurt when it happened. I bled all over the shop before I got it glued together. Probably should’ve got stitches but didn’t. Wearing gloves pulling them off of an engine is a great way to avoid seeing your own blood. Back in the mid nineties some Toyota and Nissan engines had issues with carbon buildup in the cylinders that caused noise and detonation. We found that the best solution was to take the hose coming off of the washer fluid reservoir and connect it to the intake manifold vacuum source. Take it for a spin and intermittently and carefully press the washer button. Water is still the best carbon remover you can get as long as you are careful applying it. No man made chemical carbon remover will do what steam does when it’s in a ignited combustion chamber. We cleaned many that way without any problems. Moderation is key.
Very interesting! I’ve got a 53 Merc flathead in my formerly V12, 48 Lincoln. I also have a 47, V12 Continental. The 48 gets hot in traffic so I’m going to try making an extended fan shroud. The owner before me added an electric fan, but a 12 volt fan running on 6 volt system ain’t working. Thanks for the insider information. I’ve never worked on a flathead before except my Packard straight eight. & I just subscribed
My experience with old engines is no one used antifreeze, and water corroded the block quickly. I heard you say there was antifreeze in this one, but for how long we will never know. When you were taking the waterpump off I was remembering there was a bolt in the water jacket.
You said that sometimes the comments helps you come up with a solution. I have many times shown my wife a problem I'm trying to solve and she will ask a "stupid" question that will give me a idea that I had completely overlooked. And she also has some really good ideas!
I use to watch power nation Sunday morning. I’m so happy you have replaced it with a good quality informed show. Good work! Keep it up. Perhaps the damage to the piston created undue force on the cylinder wall and caused the crack.
After watching this video I am very thankful that the never-opened, original 59AB in my 48 Ford Super Deluxe still runs so smoothly. Only 57,000 original miles. I know almost nothing about repairing block cracks, but i sincerely hope you can save this otherwise good condition block. You are great detectives when it comes to figuring out why an engine has trouble.
The owner had parked it with a leaking waterpump. Ah Ha! That design cost many a block as one side of the engine would overheat but the other side would still be pumping. The coolant was independent on each side and the radiator had 4 hoses - 2 for each side. The temp gage didn’t help much. Y’all rock.
It just seems strange that if that engine was rebuilt in early '67, and it was parked in 1970, that there would be that much sludge in the oil pan, and all that buildup in the coolant passages, in only 3-4 years.
That can be CAST IRON welded. I worked at a welding shop in the 1970s that did just that sort of weld repair. It is done with a gas torch and cast iron welding rod. The entire block must be heated in an oven to make the repair and welded while at temperature. once the weld is done a sleeve should be should be put in the cylinder.
@@andrewnajarian5994 We would heat the part to be welded to 1000 to 1200 degrees for cast iron welding. The crack needs to be ground out with a carbide burr, then the grove is filled with the cast irom filler rod. You also need a special flux for cast iron welding. Once the weld is completed then the block needs to be heated to about 1400 degrees and then slowly cooled to help prevent the hard spots that can form. Since this is a welding opperation the base cact iron of the block is melted with the gas torch and then the filler rod added to that weld puddle. The molten cast iron will run like water so you may need to "direct" the weld puddle with your torch flame!
Oh the good days when I had my 51 merc block rebuilt and souped up with a cam and aluminum pistons for $150.00 in 1955 in las vegas machine shop. for my 46 ford coupe. I am now 87 and still wish I kept it. The flywheel bolt holes are for wiring them so they dont turn out.
Lead fuel saved that engine from the deadly metal cancer turning it into a sold boat anchor. The cleaning guy definitely needs a pay raise and promotion . 😉🤣Thank you both for these little gems from the modern stone age.
I would love watching you repair the crack if even remotely possible. Always fascinating to see a piece of history preserved and not scrapped. If it can be done that is. 😊😊
Very interesting! I’ve got a 53 Merc flathead in my formerly V12, 48 Lincoln. I also have a 47, V12 Continental. The 48 gets hot in traffic so I’m going to try making an extended fan shroud. The owner before me added an electric fan, but a 12 volt fan running on 6 volt system ain’t working. Thanks for the insider information. I’ve never worked on a flathead before except my Packard straight eight.
Back in the 60"s my Dad was a used car dealer and when he got a flathead in with a crack through the valve seat he would just have a new seat installed, fill the cooling system with stop leak and put it on the line to sell. They didn't even pull the motor...everything was done under the hood. Those were the old days.
If the cracks were just in the head. It's an easy fix. But the block and valve seats combined is something I'm unfamiliar with. To me, it's a watercooled Brings and Stratton. The bore is sleaveble. The seats are replaceble, but the cracks are something I didn't know if it could be repaired. Great video, guy's.
Hey guys, thanks for a very insightful look into Henry's great engine. I think that thing in the coil wire is a spark enhancer, it's just a gap on the wire so the coil builds longer so you get a hotter spark.
A friend had a 1954 239 flathead 20 years ago that had so many cracks it looked like Frankenstein when the Lock N Stitch repairs were complete. The crack repair bill alone was over $500 for that block. It worked though. One Lock N Stitch repair or 20, it does not matter how many in the end if it works. A new or good used block just was not available even back then.
Yup, sometimes you have to bite the bullet if you want to go forward. Chances of finding a good block is probably going to be slim, and if you do find another block it's probably going to have the same repair that they're probably going to end up doing anyways, or has similar cracking that hasn't been repaired yet.
I think it's worth trying to save the block, although this is the hottest area of the exhaust ports, as two cylinders exhaust exited through one common port. This exhaust heat actually led to the development of the Auburn OHV cylinder head conversion. It was actually designed for the larger trucks, as they generated a lot of heat when loaded heavy. Then the Hot Rod crowd that you mentioned, took the "Ball" and ran with it.
Stitching is the way to go. You can even make a exhaust port sleeve to further back the pins if there is enough meat, then just sleeve + add a valve seat and be done with it. Those other cylidners look so good that it could probably be just honed.
I second the concept of sleeving the cracked cylinder, sourcing a replacement .040 piston, honing the block, straightening the rods, polishing the crank, valve job and send it. Old timey fix what’s broken. Stitch the block. 👍
The item on your coil wire is a suppressor for interferences with the radio signal. That was one thing done to keep that static on your radio. You could hear the static pick up when you rev the engine. We also put extra ground straps, a condenser and there was a wire wound coil we used for alternator wind.
Torque the cylinder head back on the cracked side. Fabricate a water pump block off plate with a air fitting to pressurize the water jacket. Soap everything up and see if the cracks go into the water jacket.
Stumbled into your channel a few weeks ago. As a self educated mechanic with 50 years of practice, I still know very little. My experience is mostly in Motorcycles, but engines as a whole fascinate me. I live in the UK where V8 engines are rare, and expensive and is something I only see on channels like this. The two of you are a great team, and bounce ideas off each other and your closeness as a father and son comes right through. with both having respect for each other but not afraid to question or poke fun which makes it real for us onlookers. As for the engine and what to do, I'm sure it is fixable but at what cost and how rare is it, and can you get another block. etc etc. I would love to see the process of repairing it if possible as I've seen other videos of cold stitching as well as welding cast iron. both of which are highly specialised. I am also a realist and if it is just too expensive to do then scrapping the block might be the correct outcome. keep up the good work and remember that some of your followers don't live in the states so we can find what you take as normal strange to us.
Mobil Non detergent 30 motor oil was all my dad ever used in those old engines. If you made a mistake and put detergent oil in the filter plugged up very fast.
@@timdenowh95 All the sludge that dropped out of the 30wt non detergent oil and collected on the bottom of the sump was stirred up with detergent oil.... so if you had an oil filter, bypass or full flow.... of course it plugged up quickly....
I noticed you guys have 85 octane gas at your local gas station. Being from the south, I've never seen that before! Our regular gas is 87, mid grade is 89 and premium fuel is 93. We also have non ethanol gas as well. Currently our regular fuel is $2.99-$3.09 a gallon. You learn something new everyday.
Being higher altitude, you will see slightly lower octane gas. The engine does not get as much air to compress at 5000 ft above sea level as it does at sea level. Because of this the fuel does not need as much.
If you do finish this one. it will be the first time I see a complete rebuild of a Ford flathead without the commercial television edits where suddenly without much explanation, it's on the dyno... Keep sharing and I'll keep watching.
The sludge situation was always an issue as there was never a correct filter from the factory. Detergent had yet to be added to motor oil and adding it to a motor that had run for years on non -detergents was almost a guarantee of trouble as that detergent tried to clean up all that at once.
Keerect! My Grandpa took the advice of a sales person at Monkey Ward, and put detergent oil in his Fleetline, which had always run non-detergent. He and his cousin Elmer had to rebuild the engine.
Sorry I don't remember the shop name in Southern Cal be this guy had 100's of flat head engines as he support old hot rods using flat head V8. I was researching Y-block info and ran across this site as he dealt with flat heads. He ran one with 3X2 carbs on it a sweet ride,
The generator to get rebuilt place is Hite parts exchange on Mckinley ave columbus oh. Ive had them rebuild a 6volt generator for me before and they did a good job. Edit I have seen alot of castiron repaired. They take the whole block and heat it up (temperature i dont know) and stick weld the crack (type of rod i dont know). They drill the end of the crack and grind the crack out prior to heating obviously.
The coil wire was a radio suppressor. The engine looked good for the age to bad about the crack. Thanks for the video. Enjoy watching. Hope the block can be repaired
Like I’ve heard so many times before,ford flat heads came out of the factory with part numbers on them . All of them had cracks it was just where and how many. It takes a strong willed person with deep pockets to keep them on the road
Totally NOT a Ford guy, but I AM an anything old guy and always been intrigued by the flat head v8s due to their proliferation in early stock car and hotrods. Thanks for the vid.
Crack stops at the water jacket, pin off at water jacket, install seat, then install sleeve. Had one with 3 cracks, needed 4 sleeves total. Not worth labor involved, found another block.
I love the sound of a Ford flathead. If possible I would fix that block because I am thinking the customer is having it rebuilt for sentimental reasons and getting a different block would be getting rid of a big component. There used to be a welder up here who would weld cracks like that one and even worse. Unfortunately he drank himself to death. The worst I ever saw him weld was a transmission casing for an antique tractor that was literally broken in half that a customer brought to him. He welded it together, ground down the welds and stimpled them so the repair blended in with the texture of the rest of the casting. But if it is not feasible to repair this block I completely understand.
Yes , the old flat heads have a nice sound to them , a friend of my old mans had a bucket hot rod with a flatty in it , its amazing how different engine types make different exhaust notes , i have a nice little 4.0 lexus 1990 v8 that also has a beautiful rhythm to it , its just ear candy :) .
Good luck guys. Magnaflux the entire block as you look for cracks. You might find ones far worse than what you saw initially. If you did not find other cracks or worse cracks, perhaps it is best to locknstich, add a sleeve, and fit hard valve seats. Lots of old engines will have the same severity of cracking.
My dad grew up and loved them old flat head ford v8s! I grew up in his shop restoring them! Dad would always bet on how many cylinders would have a crack from the valve over to the cylinder!
YES YES YES YES I found this online... Dimples inside bolt heads serve several purposes in various applications: Identification: Dimples can be used to identify specific bolt types, grades, or manufacturers. Weight reduction: In aerospace and high-performance applications, dimples can slightly reduce the weight of bolts without compromising strength. Stress distribution: Dimples can help distribute stress more evenly across the bolt head, potentially improving fatigue resistance. Manufacturing process: Some dimples may be a result of the forging or manufacturing process used to create the bolt heads. Countersinking: In certain applications, dimples allow for countersunk screws or bolts to sit flush with the surface. Servicing or rebuilding indicators: In some cases, dimples may indicate that a part has been serviced or rebuilt, though this is not always the case. It's important to note that the specific purpose of dimples can vary depending on the application, industry, and manufacturer. If you're concerned about dimples on bolt heads in a particular context, it's best to consult the manufacturer's specifications or an industry expert for accurate information.
We used Belden bolts and nuts that spread out the clamping force. I know they have sold blind capped nuts with that same dimple profile for driving out nuts like ball joint nuts, and not have the chisel slip of and damage other stuff. All I have seen to designate bolt types were the usual hash marks for SAE and lettering for metric. I suppose it could be a torque thing to insure better torque specs. I worked a Allied Signal, Honeywell, Goodyear Aerospace, Raytheon, etc. but only as an electrician. I converted lots of one of a kind CNC tools from cassette drive to LAN.
Download the FREE Upside App at upside.app.link/jims to get an extra 25 cents back for every gallon on your first tank of gas.
But?? Only from in-network stations??
HOW COME I CANT LEAVE A COMMENT HEAR .
@@TonyKing-si2ns what do you mean? Seems like you left a comment
your comment didn’t show up.. keep trying bud
@@madmax2069 LOOK IN THE NORMAL COMMENTS SECTION NOW AND TELL ME IT YOU SEE IT UNDER ANOTHER ACCOUNT.
We all have PTSD from “you’re not holding the light right” 😂
😂😂😂
The worst PTSD memory I have of that is holding flashlight while my father put new drive belt on torque converter on late 60's snowmobile while temperature below zero and pitch black night
So true
@@davyhill23 For me, it was two teen girls 'charming' me into repairing something under the dash of their vehicle. When the drop light landed on my face the 3rd time, I asked them to please stop helping.
I just did it to my adult son yesterday!
I'm 63 and never had a father to hang with. I can't imagine my life if I had a dad like this. Great channel.
I had to teach myself. My father was an alcoholic who hated me.
Same here. It makes a big difference.
@@tuberNunya I hear ya, brother. Only my dad just hated me without the alcohol. lol.
@@tuberNunya I definately can relate to your experience . My dad dad was a alcoholic too who hated me and even tried to kill me .
My dad was not a gearhead... MOST Of my friends, from about 14 on up, were all gearheads and we learned from each other.....
The black bakelite piece on the coil wire is a radio suppression resistor. The ignition wire screws into it.
Back in 1962 I remember going to the Kansas State Fair and there was a booth there with a guy demonstrating a similar looking device that he said would improve engine performance. Never heard of anyone actually using one though.
I put the same thing in my 69 Chev 327 when I put it on solid cable and Bakelite ends to go with the Mallory Dual-Point Rev-Pol (OK, and Mallory coil lol).
Yes. It is to suppress spark snap, which would come through on the old radios. That noise was beyond annoying.
There was a "Spark Booster" that looked very similar as well, Loaded up the ignition coil by a bigger gap, so that when it did jump the gap it had more energy
Snake Oil Marketing
@@davidkepley4396Back in 1962.
I consider myself old and wasn’t even born yet back then 😉.
Love your comment though, tx!
Today similar ‘enhancement’ products are sold as OBD2 plugs. Not much has changed.😁
The bolt with the distinctive dimple is called a 'place bolt'. They are designed so that the circumferance of the bolt deforms and effectively locks the bolt in place. They are typically used to lock flywheels in place and are onetime use bolts - or fix them with red loctite. Love your channel.
Never knew that. Thank you.
Hi I'm a flathead guy and you are the first people I have seen remove the intake valve guides by pushing down with a lever down the port. I've been doing it like that for quite a while and thought I was the only one. Re the crack I will watch out to see what you do with it. The other place you should check is around the pan rails. Many a flathead has been lost by cracks there due to freezing. The water jacket extends all the way down to the pan rail unlike most other motors. All the best, Mart in England.
It's so cool watching an older guy with loads of experience passing his knowledge on to his very well educated son. Love it. [EDIT] Thanks guys. Not an engineer, me, so it all comes down to the customer.
This is how its supposed to be... the " boomer" haters are all going to be left in the wind knowing NOTHING
Don’t they call the old guy the ‘apprentice’ or the cleaner? 🤣
I fully agree, it’s just fantastic to see extremely knowledgeable people at work and explaining what they’re doing and why. 👌
@@Conservator.: "The cleaning guy"!
@@edwatts9890 😂
@@ricksmith4736I completely agree with you and many millennials wish they had parents like this who actually gave a shit about them and loved them. See the problem isn’t that millennials hate their parents actually quite the opposite , most millennials love their parents its just very unfortunate that many (not all) boomer parents don’t really love their children. The boomers are the first generation in American history to have actively sabotage their children generation from government policy ( they are responsible for running the US debt up for their short term gains over their entire lives, they are also the generation (specifically the wealthy segment) responsible for selling out American industrial might to oversee’s again for their own short term gain. The real irony is how the boomers are the ones comparing the most about how terrible this country is becoming yet are the one who are completely responsible for the current state the country is in since they have been at the wheel for a very long time now ( they are the largest generation in American history and are the strongest cohort). Unfortunately many boomer parents have purposefully sabotage their children on top of all the other things i already pointed out (the larger uncontroversial sociological phenomenon that has been observed), many boomers are sociopathic and narcissistic and have made sure they are not leaving their children anything (and I’m not saying anyone is entitled to anything, but a reminder the conversation is about children and the legacy you leave.). And not only have many wealthy boomers have made sure not leave anything for their children by blowing all their money on frivolous materialistic possessions many throughout their children’s life have actively made sure to hurt their children and make sure they do not have life better than they did. I say all of this not as someone who is in this position (I’m poor and was never getting anything from my parents, but i did have a sociopathic and narcissistic parents, especially my father who was abusive, which was unfortunate to me when i was younger since i always wanted to have a healthy relationship with him, but as you get older you learn and realize sometimes that’s just not possible and whatever i didn’t experiment personally I certainly I have seen first hand via all my friends growing up and to this day all of the things i listed above about the boomers more often then not, which agin is unfortunate bc my generation (the millennials) almost all love their parents but for a large majority it isn’t possible bc their parents don’t love them, they only love themselves. Where in the past generations would talk about pregnancy as a surprise or unplanned, the boomers were the first generation in mass to have children to maintain their social standing in their immediate communities/in society as well as to function as serving the image they want ppl to see them portrayed as ie successful, a family man and so on, so essentially many boomers never wanted children but only had them so they could use them to further their goals. Which in this case meant completing their “image” in society. So many millennials were nothing more than an accessory to their parents, which later would become a nuisance/ something stopping them from living their lives doing whatever they want whenever they want. Which than would turn into resentment. I can’t tell you how many of my friends parent resented them for existing and its not like these kids were anywhere close to be bad kids or anything like that. Its simply that their parent sucked, and agin I wouldn’t be saying this a pattern if i hadn’t seen it so prevalent amongst my generation. like you’d expect their to be some shitty ppl in every generation just as a basic distribution among the population but after seeing parent after parent being a shitty person you start to look deeper to see if there is something in common that their generation has to explain their behavior and there most certain;y is logical explanations… cheers
As a Colorado licensed Plumber i can attest that my "plumbers crack has officially reached my exhaust valve too! 🤔😆😆
LOL! Not thats funny right thear!
RE: Crack. IF a replacement block can't be found, and I know they're out there, I'd try to repair this one. I'd wager there's a number of us who'd like very much to get a good view of the process and result! Good stuff, guys. Appreciate it! "D"
I agree.
Tatro machine did one a flat head
@@michaelstrafello7346 I quit watching him a while back. It seemed like every video, he was just opening packages of random crap he bought off the internet.
Ive seen machinists drill each end of the crack, tap the holes, insert a machine screw, then string together machine screws the full length of the crack!
I've seen them repaired using the stitch lock process tends to be successful...
Everything Jim does reminds me of My father. I'm 70 now, but pop taught me the dirty business of machine work and auto repair. Hold the light there! Horrible nights when we would repair one or the other's cars half the night...Just to impress him, I walked a VW body over a chassis with the engine and stick in place and bolted it up before he returned from work. Prussian blue oil paint on the valves...thank you so very much to both you and my father, saved me a million over the years.
I held the flashlight for my Dad as well, but more in the building trades than mechanics. My sons later held the flashlight for me, rolling their eyes the whole time from sheer boredom.
My Dad had me change the water pump on his 55 Pontiac V8. He was a big man and couldn't reach down to do the job. So he coached me through the job. That was pretty cool for this 12 or 13 year old gearhead.
The hole in the bolt heads on the flywheel is for a safety wire to keep the bolts from backing out.
❤ Prussian blue!
The silvery oil is not likely to be due to leaded fuel but instead you will probably remember that about the time it was parked, graphite infused oils were the big thing for performance and reduced wear! Mobile, STP and Arco were some of the ones I remember being displayed in the shops I learned in.
My first vehicle was a 52 Ford Pickup with a Flathead V8 when I was 17 (54 now). Love seeing you guys work on them. Good memories of learning the mysteries of ICE motors!!! Thanks for the stroll down Memory Lane!
Oh you kids! I remember the graphite oil craze, but what they are seeing really looks like lead residue from gas. They might be calling it silvery, but it's actually a pasty gray color. The light colored vowel heads are also kind of the sign of the use of leaded fuel. The exhaust valves ran hotter and would collect fuel deposits.
The lead sludge sometimes would accumulate within 10 to 15,000 mi, even with frequent oil changes. The lead was, no surprise, heavy and would settle out of the oil.
Good point.
I remember those graphite oils. Sooooo black.
I tried it once in my Buick Special and the hydraulic lifters became noisy, so I drained it out and put conventional oil in. Never used oil with graphite again.
Graphite oil worked well. Until it didn't. Enough oil coming up past worn rings,it would short the plugs. Multiple oil changes required and many plugs ruined all the way up the porcelain. The graphite would adhere well to rough cast iron surfaces in the casting,only slowly working its way into the new oil.
Used the stuff myself in a one ton Ford,no problems but I switched brands to Shell Rotella on advice of a guy I trusted ,once the engine was high mileage.
Turned out to be a good choice. The shop that pulled the engine apart in front of me said he had never seen one that clean.
I love you too sharing knowledge. When I was running the streets and getting in trouble, I had a friend who took me under his wing and taught me about engines and automotive repair. Years later as an Aircraft Mechanic of 45 years and now retired I still remember what he taught me as I do repairs on the farm!
I love watching this father & son team work together. It’s just something so sacred & honest, that you cannot recreate. Sr.’s experience & his on-the-point commentary speaks for itself in volumes. The “Knowledge” implicit in every one of these videos is all-too-obvious. Watch carefully & LEARN ! & ENJOy motorheads worldwide!
The "Riding with Alex Taylor" channel bring an fairly similar vibe and relation between generations, also based on tech knowledge and cars. Dad got the huge experience, while Alex understand all the modern computerized tech and they have huge respect for each other. Like they (with help from Alex' fiancé) made DIY designed cast aluminium parts for an hotrod in the shop, combining old fashion sand casting technique with 3D printing.
Every motor I ever worked on ran the last time it ran… 😀
Just like finding that tool you set down somewhere, you always find it in the last place you look.
@@robobloxgamer524 agreed but why is it always in the last possible place you can look?
@@Dave5843-d9m"did you find your keys? "
"Yeah, but I'm still looking for them"
@@Dave5843-d9mit’s not in the last place you can look. It’s always in the last place you look. It’s a smartass saying moreless. Once you find what you’re looking for you’ll no longer be looking. Hench the it’s always in the last place you look saying
@@Dave5843-d9m As Maverick said, "It's one of the great mysteries of life, Sir."
I have a ‘53 Mercury flathead block on an engine stand that’s been in my parents basement for over 40 years. It was a project I started in high school that I didn’t finish. The block has been cleaned and magnafluxed, no cracks. If you decide to not pursue a repair, I would be happy to part with this block as my parents have recently passed and I need to get rid of it (and all the associated parts)
Wow. That sounds like a deal for somebody.
I could use that flathead stuff. Price please, and location.
At first I thought I would just fast forward through the video to see the results, but two minutes in I was hooked and watched the whole video!!!
Very good information, you guys are the best builders and machinists on the tube!!!
Thank you! Can’t wait for the results.
It's got a mixed matched distributor and timing cover. The aluminum timing cover is correct for the Mercury, but also had an aluminum distributor with it. It had a shaft that protruded past the gear that ran in that extra guide in the timing cover. The cast distributor does not have that because it was meant for the cast iron cover. As far as the crack, stitch it up with cast plugs and sleeve the cylinder. Run adjustable lifters and drill the lifter bores to stick a pick in to make adjusting easier. Run an aluminum timing gear instead of the fiber gear. Just a few hints. Have fun!
I am 81 and live in New Zealand. This motor reminds me of my extreme youth and a 1936 Dodge Car my father had. It suffered from Carbon knock, and he and I worked on it to remove carbon from the head, the pistons and the valves, That was in 1954 and it ran until my mates and I killed it in 1959. It greatest problem was in carburetor and trying to get the air/fuel mix right. It was a problem all of the years we had it, and we only bought it because after the War in NZ you simply could not get new cars and to a lesser extent parts. This is a great project, and I look forward to the progress you make with it. Regards to all.
Six minute mark you ask about the coil wire. The in-line piece might be RFI (radio frequency interference) suppressor.
Later cars built the RFI suppression into each spark plug wire. 👍🏽
Another great video guys
This takes me back to the days in the shop. One of my best friends knew everything about engines, and taught me quite a bit. When he was tearing something down and came across something he’d never seen he would come get me and show me what he found. I love the history!
Grandad welded a crack like yours on my 50 mercury plus welded valve pocket
This was 26 years ago ... still working 2024
My vote is to repair the crack with Locknstitch. Just because it will make a very interesting video. (And it really will be a good repair.)
I have done several of that exact repair on Ford Flatheads using the metal stitching. That crack will go right through the valve seat too. But the engine can be saved.
I vote for Locknstich also. I have never seen a block repaired cracked like this one using Locknxtich but I believe it can be done and I would _Realy_ like to see it. Thanks for all the great videos.
Be cool to see it fixed!
I have been welding cast iron for many years, CIG welding supplies Australia makes machinable cast iron welding rods, they are pretty expensive but worth it. You have to heat the metal, weld, cool it overnight in lime powder.
@@davestarr7112 Yes do it.
Boy you guys are making me feel OLD. I turned 15 in 1970 and the following summer my summer job was on a farm and involved driving a 57 Ford pickup with a flathead 8 I imagine it was parked after that summer. Hard to believe those good memories are 53 years old.
All 57 Fords had an overhead valve engine.
If your 57 had a Flathead, it sure wasn't stock, as the 57s all had a Y block.
As a 54-year old gear head who loves this stuff and put together a couple dozen cars in my life, I find this so interesting even though I'm no engine builder and always had that big work done for me. I respect and love all these real-deal machinists who really know their shit😊
Hey Jim, so glad you have WILLING and SMART young man, your son, to absorb your VAST KNOWLEDGE to carry on w/the integrity of your business!! Us older GEAR HEADS love to see this type relationship, you both very fortunate. Mike from Delaware is VERY GRATEFUL to ya BOTH!
ive fixed a similar crack before with tapered pins, hardened valve seats and a sleeve. these old flatheads are getting harder to find and without cracks and would make them a unicorn especially since i think they were factory installed
Really enjoy watching you two work together! You have a special relationship that adds greatly beyond the mechanical theme of your videos. I’d like to see you repair the block if possible.
My dad wasn't around when I was growing up but I had my grandpa and this reminds me of those times we were trying to fix stuff together. I miss that very much. Thanks for such a cool video!
My father passed about 16 years ago, we would always talk about projects that I had going on the farm and life. Still miss him, don't take the time you have now for granted
"I'll get to it" I said that when I parked the wife's VW in the garage 25 years ago. And I finally did when I retired! It's on the road and running great!
The old 'Roundtoit'.
"It's on the road and running great"
That's nice to hear... And how about the VW?
If you have a decent garage to park it in, if not it will die quickly...
@@trevorvanbremen4718 😆
Ive been playing that game on and off and it sucks, no garage to work out of so it sits out side, pulled the trans off two days ago now I need to pull the block, already have the head off n need to replace the engine the block should still be good but hurricane Debby is fuckin all that up for me right mow
I use to watch power nation Sunday morning. I’m so happy you have replaced it with a good quality informed show.
Good work! Keep it up.
Hey fellers….I’d love to see you guys repair that block. Can’t get enough of this channel
"Ran when parked"
I once saw a Honda CB500 twin running with a cherry red engine, guy was a stunt driver and didn't realize that the coolant system blew. Once he parked, that engine welded itself solid.
So technically it ran when parked.
Same issue with air cooled 2 stroke 50cc moped I had. Ran for it for very long time and the piston started to seize while driving.
Also happened with much later Yamaha XJR 400 oil cooled driving too slow and it started to seize. Had to speed up to cool it off.
Chainsaws can also seize up if run hard and stop it too soon.
@@Frank-Thoresen
Good idea to NOT run out of fuel in the middle of a big cut .......
You can see and hear the fresh fuel boiling when you drop it into the empty tank........
just think of all those explosive fumes drifting over the hot engine and muffler....
47:00 that's a reversible gasket. If you rebuild in Canada, you turn it the other way around.
I was learning to wrench under my dad, who was an excellent mechanic. I don't recall why, but I was on the floor of a 60s Olds (maybe having replaced a headlight switch) after doing a tune up. Instead of getting back up, onto the seat to start it, I reached up to the key, then pressed on the gas with my hand. The throttle stuck, and the engine started knocking. I thought for sure I had spun a bearing insert. My dad came out, revved it up to about 1500 and poured cold water down the carb. The knock completely cleared up. Carbon knock tended to happen when road testing a fresh tuneup (maybe when including a valve adjustment--I don't remember). Basically, the increased combustion efficiency semed to jar the carbon loose.
I remember doing that to 472ci caddy engines from the late 60's
All that lead in the fuel made the carbon build-up really solid.
I often do Seafoam down the vacuum line.
The carbon could have been knocked loose from taking the spark plugs out for the tune up.
This rings a bell. I knew a guy who rigged up to slowly introduce water into his engine as it ran along. To cut a very long story short the result, among other things, was that the carbon that usually builds up in the upper cylinder area completely cleaned off, leaving the upper cylinder area and spark plugs looking brand new. Engine power and petrol economy boosted also. Interesting, eh.
I believe the hollow bolt heads act as a spring, flexing slightly when properly torqued. This was common in flywheel fasteners for decades. It resists loosening.
Perhaps getting heat treating to the most highly stressed part of the bolt?
I have a '38 Caddy flathead like that... Ran until '59, then my grandfather would start it once per month until he got cancer in the 70s. I inherited it about 20 years ago. It's currently my retirement plan.
This is without a doubt the best RUclips channel I have ever watched when it comes to explaining what you are doing and why. You guys should definitely try and fix that old block for no other reason other than to see if it can be done.. thanks for all the great content and keep it coming...
I really enjoy watching your videos. I always learn something, always have at least a chuckle. However, the best part is the father/ son interactions, subtle ribbing, obvious respect. Thanks for sharing. Cheers
A MLS head gasket from a J30 Honda engine sliced my left hand to the bone and did it so quickly that it really didn’t hurt when it happened. I bled all over the shop before I got it glued together. Probably should’ve got stitches but didn’t. Wearing gloves pulling them off of an engine is a great way to avoid seeing your own blood.
Back in the mid nineties some Toyota and Nissan engines had issues with carbon buildup in the cylinders that caused noise and detonation. We found that the best solution was to take the hose coming off of the washer fluid reservoir and connect it to the intake manifold vacuum source. Take it for a spin and intermittently and carefully press the washer button. Water is still the best carbon remover you can get as long as you are careful applying it. No man made chemical carbon remover will do what steam does when it’s in a ignited combustion chamber. We cleaned many that way without any problems. Moderation is key.
We used to call it an Italian tune up.
Very interesting! I’ve got a 53 Merc flathead in my formerly V12, 48 Lincoln. I also have a 47, V12 Continental. The 48 gets hot in traffic so I’m going to try making an extended fan shroud. The owner before me added an electric fan, but a 12 volt fan running on 6 volt system ain’t working.
Thanks for the insider information. I’ve never worked on a flathead before except my Packard straight eight. & I just subscribed
My experience with old engines is no one used antifreeze, and water corroded the block quickly. I heard you say there was antifreeze in this one, but for how long we will never know. When you were taking the waterpump off I was remembering there was a bolt in the water jacket.
You said that sometimes the comments helps you come up with a solution. I have many times shown my wife a problem I'm trying to solve and she will ask a "stupid" question that will give me a idea that I had completely overlooked. And she also has some really good ideas!
I use to watch power nation Sunday morning. I’m so happy you have replaced it with a good quality informed show.
Good work! Keep it up. Perhaps the damage to the piston created undue force on the cylinder wall and caused the crack.
After watching this video I am very thankful that the never-opened, original 59AB in my 48 Ford Super Deluxe still runs so smoothly. Only 57,000 original miles. I know almost nothing about repairing block cracks, but i sincerely hope you can save this otherwise good condition block. You are great detectives when it comes to figuring out why an engine has trouble.
The owner had parked it with a leaking waterpump. Ah Ha! That design cost many a block as one side of the engine would overheat but the other side would still be pumping. The coolant was independent on each side and the radiator had 4 hoses - 2 for each side. The temp gage didn’t help much. Y’all rock.
The sheet gasket material was manufactured in Canada and the gasket was die cut stamped in USA. Love watching your channel...
It amazes me that you two always come up with so many different interesting projects 👍🏻
It just seems strange that if that engine was rebuilt in early '67, and it was parked in 1970, that there would be that much sludge in the oil pan, and all that buildup in the coolant passages, in only 3-4 years.
That can be CAST IRON welded. I worked at a welding shop in the 1970s that did just that sort of weld repair. It is done with a gas torch and cast iron welding rod. The entire block must be heated in an oven to make the repair and welded while at temperature. once the weld is done a sleeve should be should be put in the cylinder.
I saw that done once. Talk about heat.
Cylinder Head Repair in Evansville IN used to do this-probably still will if you call and ask nice.
What kind of temp do you need the block at out of curiosity?
Dave's auto center in Utah had a pontiac block welded where the main saddle broke out. Contact them and they can give you the guys info who done itr.
@@andrewnajarian5994 We would heat the part to be welded to 1000 to 1200 degrees for cast iron welding. The crack needs to be ground out with a carbide burr, then the grove is filled with the cast irom filler rod. You also need a special flux for cast iron welding. Once the weld is completed then the block needs to be heated to about 1400 degrees and then slowly cooled to help prevent the hard spots that can form. Since this is a welding opperation the base cact iron of the block is melted with the gas torch and then the filler rod added to that weld puddle. The molten cast iron will run like water so you may need to "direct" the weld puddle with your torch flame!
Oh the good days when I had my 51 merc block rebuilt and souped up with a cam and aluminum pistons for $150.00 in 1955 in las vegas machine shop. for my 46 ford coupe. I am now 87 and still wish I kept it. The flywheel bolt holes are for wiring them so they dont turn out.
Lead fuel saved that engine from the deadly metal cancer turning it into a sold boat anchor.
The cleaning guy definitely needs a pay raise and promotion .
😉🤣Thank you both for these little gems from the modern stone age.
growing up in the 70-80’s i still remeber the gas station attendant asking “leaded or unleaded” ..
I would love watching you repair the crack if even remotely possible. Always fascinating to see a piece of history preserved and not scrapped. If it can be done that is. 😊😊
Love your channel ❤️
God bless you and your family Brothers
Very interesting! I’ve got a 53 Merc flathead in my formerly V12, 48 Lincoln. I also have a 47, V12 Continental. The 48 gets hot in traffic so I’m going to try making an extended fan shroud. The owner before me added an electric fan, but a 12 volt fan running on 6 volt system ain’t working.
Thanks for the insider information. I’ve never worked on a flathead before except my Packard straight eight.
Back in the 60"s my Dad was a used car dealer and when he got a flathead in with a crack through the valve seat he would just have a new seat installed, fill the cooling system with stop leak and put it on the line to sell. They didn't even pull the motor...everything was done under the hood. Those were the old days.
some saw dust in the rear diff and just like new.
And they wonder where the stereotypes come from.
@@jackpledger8118 those engines only had a 4 pound pressure cap so even cracked you could still run them and people did it all the time.
@@donmunro144 bwhahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahah exactly
@@donmunro144 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 exactly
This is like csi for engines👍 Love your channel guys😀
Lock-n-stitch plug kit. Plug crack and install sleeve and new valve seat. 🤘🏻
Great channel and information! Love the old flat heads! The sound is like no other!
Thank you, guys, for bringing a fond memory back. It's the light holding reference!
If you guys have that block welded, use a shop that will let you film it!!!
If the cracks were just in the head. It's an easy fix. But the block and valve seats combined is something I'm unfamiliar with. To me, it's a watercooled Brings and Stratton. The bore is sleaveble. The seats are replaceble, but the cracks are something I didn't know if it could be repaired. Great video, guy's.
Hey guys, thanks for a very insightful look into Henry's great engine. I think that thing in the coil wire is a spark enhancer, it's just a gap on the wire so the coil builds longer so you get a hotter spark.
They're all cracked. Some stitches, a sleeve and a valve seat, she'll be fine.
Really enjoy watching father and son working together.
A friend had a 1954 239 flathead 20 years ago that had so many cracks it looked like Frankenstein when the Lock N Stitch repairs were complete. The crack repair bill alone was over $500 for that block. It worked though. One Lock N Stitch repair or 20, it does not matter how many in the end if it works. A new or good used block just was not available even back then.
Yup, sometimes you have to bite the bullet if you want to go forward. Chances of finding a good block is probably going to be slim, and if you do find another block it's probably going to have the same repair that they're probably going to end up doing anyways, or has similar cracking that hasn't been repaired yet.
In 1954, all USA Fords had an overhead valve engine.
If you had a 54 with a Flathead, it was an early production Canadian car. Canada didn't get the Y block until mid year.
This is excellent content! Thank you both very much!
I think it's worth trying to save the block, although this is the hottest area of the exhaust ports, as two cylinders exhaust exited through one common port. This exhaust heat actually led to the development of the Auburn OHV cylinder head conversion. It was actually designed for the larger trucks, as they generated a lot of heat when loaded heavy. Then the Hot Rod crowd that you mentioned, took the "Ball" and ran with it.
There was an Ardon conversion also.
@@Sabe53 I guess the spell check gets the credit. I meant to say that the Ardun OHV cylinder heads were developed.
I guess the spell check, I meant to say Ardun OHV cylinder heads were developed for truck use initially, and the Hotrod crowd realized the advantages.
Stitching is the way to go. You can even make a exhaust port sleeve to further back the pins if there is enough meat, then just sleeve + add a valve seat and be done with it. Those other cylidners look so good that it could probably be just honed.
I second the concept of sleeving the cracked cylinder, sourcing a replacement .040 piston, honing the block, straightening the rods, polishing the crank, valve job and send it. Old timey fix what’s broken. Stitch the block. 👍
Thank guys, really enjoying this one. "Ran When Parked" Make up a t shirt with this and your logo and I'll buy one.
Fred's Auto Electric in Lincoln Ne is fantastic for rebuiding starters, generators and alternators. Quick and reasonable cost.
I sure would like to see that old flat head motor fixed if possible. It's getting pretty rare now day's.
you guys are amazing
I love your dedication to craftsmanship!
You two were very professional by not bad mouthing someones previous work on that engine. Love Jim's chuckle.
Glad to see a Ford flathead V-8 build. I recall when I was young helping my dad rebuild on for our pickup.
So many Fords in Canada were labeled “Mercury”. Both cars and trucks.
Great project guys!
The crack solution will be interesting.
The item on your coil wire is a suppressor for interferences with the radio signal. That was one thing done to keep that static on your radio. You could hear the static pick up when you rev the engine. We also put extra ground straps, a condenser and there was a wire wound coil we used for alternator wind.
Torque the cylinder head back on the cracked side. Fabricate a water pump block off plate with a air fitting to pressurize the water jacket. Soap everything up and see if the cracks go into the water jacket.
Stumbled into your channel a few weeks ago. As a self educated mechanic with 50 years of practice, I still know very little. My experience is mostly in Motorcycles, but engines as a whole fascinate me. I live in the UK where V8 engines are rare, and expensive and is something I only see on channels like this.
The two of you are a great team, and bounce ideas off each other and your closeness as a father and son comes right through. with both having respect for each other but not afraid to question or poke fun which makes it real for us onlookers.
As for the engine and what to do, I'm sure it is fixable but at what cost and how rare is it, and can you get another block. etc etc. I would love to see the process of repairing it if possible as I've seen other videos of cold stitching as well as welding cast iron. both of which are highly specialised. I am also a realist and if it is just too expensive to do then scrapping the block might be the correct outcome. keep up the good work and remember that some of your followers don't live in the states so we can find what you take as normal strange to us.
The "lead" color in the oil is from a high paraffin based motor oil.
Mobil Non detergent 30 motor oil was all my dad ever used in those old engines. If you made a mistake and put detergent oil in the filter plugged up very fast.
@@timdenowh95
All the sludge that dropped out of the 30wt non detergent oil and collected on the bottom of the sump was stirred up with detergent oil....
so if you had an oil filter, bypass or full flow....
of course it plugged up quickly....
And might plug up the oil pump screen as well.
I noticed you guys have 85 octane gas at your local gas station. Being from the south, I've never seen that before! Our regular gas is 87, mid grade is 89 and premium fuel is 93. We also have non ethanol gas as well. Currently our regular fuel is $2.99-$3.09 a gallon. You learn something new everyday.
Being higher altitude, you will see slightly lower octane gas. The engine does not get as much air to compress at 5000 ft above sea level as it does at sea level. Because of this the fuel does not need as much.
Regarding the holding the light right. My dad used to say “where I’m looking”😅
If you do finish this one. it will be the first time I see a complete rebuild of a Ford flathead without the commercial television edits where suddenly without much explanation, it's on the dyno...
Keep sharing and I'll keep watching.
The sludge situation was always an issue as there was never a correct filter from the factory. Detergent had yet to be added to motor oil and adding it to a motor that had run for years on non -detergents was almost a guarantee of trouble as that detergent tried to clean up all that at once.
Keerect! My Grandpa took the advice of a sales person at Monkey Ward, and put detergent oil in his Fleetline, which had always run non-detergent. He and his cousin Elmer had to rebuild the engine.
Sorry I don't remember the shop name in Southern Cal be this guy had 100's of flat head engines as he support old hot rods using flat head V8. I was researching Y-block info and ran across this site as he dealt with flat heads. He ran one with 3X2 carbs on it a sweet ride,
Maybe H&H Flatheads? If memory serves he’s originally a CO guy too.
I had a 1953 F-100 with the 239 CI flathead- ran great!! Love those flatheads!!
The generator to get rebuilt place is Hite parts exchange on Mckinley ave columbus oh. Ive had them rebuild a 6volt generator for me before and they did a good job. Edit I have seen alot of castiron repaired. They take the whole block and heat it up (temperature i dont know) and stick weld the crack (type of rod i dont know). They drill the end of the crack and grind the crack out prior to heating obviously.
Would be a nickel rod
If you’re going to sleeve it why not stop drill the crack open it up some and fill it with bronze?
The coil wire was a radio suppressor. The engine looked good for the age to bad about the crack. Thanks for the video. Enjoy watching. Hope the block can be repaired
Like I’ve heard so many times before,ford flat heads came out of the factory with part numbers on them . All of them had cracks it was just where and how many. It takes a strong willed person with deep pockets to keep them on the road
Henry Ford must have been the guy that said there is a sucker born every minute.
@@davidkettell1073P.T. Barnum
Totally NOT a Ford guy, but I AM an anything old guy and always been intrigued by the flat head v8s due to their proliferation in early stock car and hotrods. Thanks for the vid.
Crack stops at the water jacket, pin off at water jacket, install seat, then install sleeve. Had one with 3 cracks, needed 4 sleeves total. Not worth labor involved, found another block.
It's great watching you guys make an old engine work again. Please have a go at getting this old girl running ❤
Get rid of the block, better now then later. Ouch!
Maybe do a video of experts repairing the block. It couldn't hurt their business any, and the association might prove to have legs.
I love the sound of a Ford flathead. If possible I would fix that block because I am thinking the customer is having it rebuilt for sentimental reasons and getting a different block would be getting rid of a big component. There used to be a welder up here who would weld cracks like that one and even worse. Unfortunately he drank himself to death. The worst I ever saw him weld was a transmission casing for an antique tractor that was literally broken in half that a customer brought to him. He welded it together, ground down the welds and stimpled them so the repair blended in with the texture of the rest of the casting. But if it is not feasible to repair this block I completely understand.
Yes , the old flat heads have a nice sound to them , a friend of my old mans had a bucket hot rod with a flatty in it , its amazing how different engine types make different exhaust notes , i have a nice little 4.0 lexus 1990 v8 that also has a beautiful rhythm to it , its just ear candy :) .
Good luck guys. Magnaflux the entire block as you look for cracks. You might find ones far worse than what you saw initially.
If you did not find other cracks or worse cracks, perhaps it is best to locknstich, add a sleeve, and fit hard valve seats. Lots of old engines will have the same severity of cracking.
Totally agree. I highly doubt they'll have an issue with a sleeve and a valve seat. Id just polish the crank if the specs all check out.
My dad grew up and loved them old flat head ford v8s! I grew up in his shop restoring them! Dad would always bet on how many cylinders would have a crack from the valve over to the cylinder!
The gasket depends on where you live as to which side goes up.
Downunder......?
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk How TF does the gasket know which way is up?
@@romandybala
Instinct...deep instinct...
I think the holes in the flywheel bolts were for safety wire so the bolts could not back out.
YES YES YES YES
I found this online...
Dimples inside bolt heads serve several purposes in various applications:
Identification: Dimples can be used to identify specific bolt types, grades, or manufacturers.
Weight reduction: In aerospace and high-performance applications, dimples can slightly reduce the weight of bolts without compromising strength.
Stress distribution: Dimples can help distribute stress more evenly across the bolt head, potentially improving fatigue resistance.
Manufacturing process: Some dimples may be a result of the forging or manufacturing process used to create the bolt heads.
Countersinking: In certain applications, dimples allow for countersunk screws or bolts to sit flush with the surface.
Servicing or rebuilding indicators: In some cases, dimples may indicate that a part has been serviced or rebuilt, though this is not always the case.
It's important to note that the specific purpose of dimples can vary depending on the application, industry, and manufacturer. If you're concerned about dimples on bolt heads in a particular context, it's best to consult the manufacturer's specifications or an industry expert for accurate information.
We used Belden bolts and nuts that spread out the clamping force. I know they have sold blind capped nuts with that same dimple profile for driving out nuts like ball joint nuts, and not have the chisel slip of and damage other stuff. All I have seen to designate bolt types were the usual hash marks for SAE and lettering for metric. I suppose it could be a torque thing to insure better torque specs. I worked a Allied Signal, Honeywell, Goodyear Aerospace, Raytheon, etc. but only as an electrician. I converted lots of one of a kind CNC tools from cassette drive to LAN.
Sounds like A I joined the chat.
Thanks chat GPT
My dad used to be a welder. He has told me you can weld cast iron, but you have to heat it, weld it, then slowly cool it.