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Hey guys I wanted to follow-up on your request for information regarding cast iron crack repair methods. My 87 year old father had a Automotive machine shop in central missouri that he shut down when he hit 70. I estimate he stitched 20 to 25 old cast iron blocks, as far as I know they are all still running without issue. The sealant that you use was not available 25 years ago. If he had a slow leak he would apply vacuum just like you did, heat the block and use a special low temp lead filler. (I still have 4 sticks in my toolbox). I also made some special peening punches for him. I will be 65 this September. I am a certified master mold maker. I have welded many different ferrous and non-ferrous metals and tool steel alloys that I doubt you have had the pleasure to work with. For large cast iron parts I use thermite, the information on how to make and use thermite was in the Machinery's handbook until 1944. I have welded hardened boat crankshaft journals. Everything I have watch in your videos are correct in my opinion. During my career I have been exposed to alot of unicorn chasing experts that talk a big talk but don't have the ability to do it. God bless you keep it going.
If that is the intake then I am sure you have it fixed if it's exhaust then as long it don't over heat I think it will last love to see the full rebuild and first run after
As a retired machinist I will say, this is a tuff one. The fix is apparent. Heat and cooling is going to tell the story. Send the block to the heater and let it cool , then pressure test it again. Keep up the amazing work. Do magic!
That's still pressure testing a cold block. An invalid test. As is a PRESSURE TEST if that is an INTAKE PORT and is exposed to manifold VACUUM. There are lots of "fixes" for those boat anchors on the "workbench". None of which are actual REPAIRS and ever work in a running engine. Which is why they are 100% "at your own risk" when a customer "on a budget" insists on trying to "fix" a cracked flathead block because its "apparently" cheaper than "sourcing" an actually GOOD SERVICEABLE UNCRACKED BLOCK. Which these days if you want a "guaranteed" good uncracked flathead block you pretty much have to buy a "parts car/truck" with it. A "running and driving" parts car/truck you can do a real ROAD TEST of the engine in. Other than that it's not even "rolling the dice" because dice produce a positive result EVERY TIME. "Sourcing" flathead V8 block/engine "cores" sight unseen - which is the case EVERY time they are not completely "torn apart" and hot tanked and shot-peened to 100% "clean" cast iron - only produces a positive result by "luck of the draw". Every time some noob Fordtard flathead "enthusiast" finds a "project" vehicle for "restoration" that comes with 1 or more "spare" flathead engine(s) or block(s) and "new parts still in the box" he or she thinks the "spares" just sweeten the deal and he or she has visions of "flipping" the "spares" to finance the "restoration". In reality all but EVERY TIME the "spares" were "sourced" at considerable expense even for GOOD parts but sky high SCRAP METAL PRICES by the "previous owner(s)" during their quest(s) to find a "good used" flathead engine/block "core" any professional machinist would even think about "tearing apart" to get it clean enough to "crack check" much less commit to "build" IF it was actually "rebuildable". If not for the "quality" of Ford flathead V8s Ford never would have had to "clone" Chrysler flathead 6s and there wouldn't be any "affordable alternatives" to Ford V8 projects. And anybody with a clue that wants an "old Ford" to "fix up" and "drive around" runs as fast as possible from V8s and right to a six-cylinder. A six-cylinder its practically impossible to "swap" a flathead V8 into "affordably" and therefore is very likely to be all original and "numbers matching". Meaning the "motor number" on the block matches the one on the frame. Which is as "numbers matching" as Fords get. And which numbers so many Fordtards refer to as a "VIN" even though it has no relevance to the vehicle identification whatsoever. Of course inline 6 Fords were/are relatively "rare" because by the time Ford offered a V8 "alternative" that could "compete" with the other companies still stuck in Flathead Land "post-war" it was only to "slow the bleeding" and only "Uncle Sam" and other government agencies and people stuck with Ford V8s were "loyal" Ford customers. And many were scrapped in the "hot rod era" because they were "only" 6-bangers. And they were not a "bargain" compared to a V8. But they are still out there and being Chrysler 230-cube flathead 6 "clones" they're about as hard to BREAK if they weren't/aren't completely abused and neglected as flathead V8s are to "FIX" if they have been anything BUT pampered and driven like an antiques from NEW.
I worked at Finning the worlds largest Caterpillar dealer. Years and years ago a fellow by the name of Axl would replace sections of engine blocks that had thrown a rod or whatever and put a hole in the block. He had an inventory of old blocks to choose from and he would cut out the damaged area and replace with undamaged area from his block inventory. These repairs often included oil galleries. He stitched them together with the tapered plugs, ground them flat and then stippled the repaired area. When finished and painted you could not see the repair. He was truly a master of his craft.
When I first saw the teardown video of this engine, my first thought was actually... Why not cut that part of the block out and just replace it? Good to know I'm just crazy, not stupid.
Way back in apprenticeship training, we were taght to drill and tap pipe threads in the cracked block and stitch wit iron plugs. Seems like it would work better having the plugs the same material as the block, eliminating or reducing the chance of failure due to different thermal expanion.
In 1993 , Working at So Cal Edison as a power plant operator @ Long Beach Gen Sta.. we had a 1932 70mw GE steam turbine develop a vacuum leak on the cast iron exhaust hood.. GE sent a Retired GE Metal Smith on contract to repair the 2.5ft crack by metal stitching technique.. it hasn't cracked any further and is still in use today as it is rhe oldest still in use GE turbine in the world.. Its sister unit is at the bottom of the black sea from being sunk by german u boat.. it was part of the Lend/Lease act for WW2... That Power plant has be in multible movies and tv series.. its most famous movie was "Its a Mad Mad Mad World" at the end with the chase scene over the floating bridge, the Hay Day of the Generation Station in Long Beach Ca with all 3 plants on site generating power, Plant 1, Plant 2, Plant 3...
This was a different type of welding, but my grandpa Oscar's old cross-stitch welds are still holding strong seen it a few months ago while doing some x-ray inspections on other stuff. I’m based in Corona, and while my main job is product design, I’ve got nearly 24 years of experience in welding, mostly on old repairs. Welding runs in my family-my dad worked for the Long Beach Water Department, my grandpa kept oil rigs running, and my great-grandpa maintained old steam engines before serving in WWII. Though it’s not my day job, I’m teaching my kids this rare skill, especially in repairing dirty cast iron and porous metals. Even with a few cases a year, welding can pay more than my main job, but it's about preserving a dying art.
Why this couldn‘t be welded was my primary question. Only did a welding course once and am not a professional of course, but interested in it since a kid - and have seen stuff welded that was said couldn‘t be (like cast aluminum). Hence my idea of why this one should not be possible to be welded, instead of being stitched. Personally I find those screws awkward, given physical expansion on hot/cold cycles. But granted, they already surpassed my expectations.
@@pan6593that block is cast iron and the metal gets brittle if you do a conventional weld on it. It must be done by heating the area to be welded first and then a special rod used to do the weld. Surface must also stay at the right temp while doing the repair. Metal stitching uses steel pins. Those expand at a slower rate than the cast iron. The cast iron will exert enough pressure against the pins to keep it sealed without the pins expanding too much causing more cracks. And by pinning it, you don't make the cast iron anymore brittle than it is naturally.
Please, Please, Let us all know how this engine runs when it is finally complete. I was shocked, amazed and incredibly interested in your repair using those tapped in studs. Simply amazing craftsmanship.
My wife and I were just talking as we watched this episode. This channel and many like it are absolutely invaluable to young people trying to figure out what they want to do in life. If they are thinking about becoming a machinist (or anything else), they can watch these videos and see what it is really like, and decide if this type of work is right for them. I am about the same age as the cleaning guy. When I was in high school, the guidance counselor would have us fill out some hopelessly outdated survey and based on our responses, recommend a few career paths. We had no idea what that meant or what the jobs were like. It was only after you signed up for college, trade school or if really lucky, landed an entry level job that you got to see what you got yourself into. You guys are providing a service that goes so far beyond the work you are doing for your customers.
There's a company called Lock-N-Stitch who several years ago put a vid out about a HUGE cast iron valve housing repair they did. That was the first time I'd seen that type of repair done and it was pretty interesting. The ONLY thing I may suggest (based on what I learned from their video) would be to heat the block you're working on and keep it hot while doing the repair, (300+ degrees if possible, yeah I know it would suck doing the work at that temp) and then when the work cooled, it would ensure you were compressing your repair studs as tight as possible, plus if it was hotter than what that engine would ever normally get to, then an "expansion - leak- while-running" leak wouldn't be an issue. Very nice repair for sure!!!! It's amazing what the Cleaning Guy can accomplish when the Boss isn't around.... Thanks for the vid guys!!!!
Jay Leno used Lock N Stitch and swears by them. He had a block for something that there is no replacements . The block had a lot of cracks and they stitched it up to perfection . I think he has had a few engines done. I remember him showing either a demo piece or the finished part without paint. He didn't show the process at Lock N Stitch that I recall. He should do a show on it from L N S
I am a retired 76-year-old tool and die maker, and I really enjoyed this flat head crack repair. I try to repair almost everything before I throw it away. I enjoy repairing anything that other people have been told that it can't be fixed. Keep up the Great videos.
I"m 76 years old and I have done some the crazyist stuff imaginable because I never had the money to do it right. Necessity is the mother of invention as they say. What you are doing is well thought out, working with what is available. It should work fine. Remember, this engine will not be used like a new car. It probably will not see 500 miles in a year and not hard miles. I think it has good odds. Also, I give away a lot of my time these days just to see if I can do it.
Well sir, when you "just to see if I can do it", time doesn't mean a thing now does it. It's the challenge to think outside the box and say "yes I did it".
Cleaning guy here. I do the same, give away time on jobs that I think might be fun. The kid gets upset with me and says I don't charge enough for what I do. I consider myself at the very least semi-retired. It is fun to try some of the things I always wanted to do but never could because there were too many bills to pay.
@@JAMSIONLINE CG, (though I don't think you deserve that title), that's wonderful that you do that because your experiment might just be the solution to someone else's problem. I really appreciate your skills and knowledge, very fun to watch!
@@JAMSIONLINE I'm right there with ya. I'm 69 and semi-retired and do the same thing, and yes, it is fun to try some of the things I always wanted to do but never could because there were too many bills to pay... 🤓
Not a mechanic myself but very proud of you for stepping out of your comfort level and trying something different to try to save a rare piece of history. Good work gentleman.
I’ve done a lot of crack repairs with lock and stitch, I always install every other plug then put an intersecting plug in between. I believe that is what lock and stitch recommends.
@@iknowyourebrokeauto468 the crack is also very close to water which would contaminate the weld, you’d probably just make everything worse. In my experience if the part drops below 650f during welding the crack will just spread or a new one would appear
I enjoy watching you guys piece stuff back together. My grandparents were depression-era, and I grew up in a blue-collar neighborhood. People used to fix things with the skills and materials they had. RUclips didn't exist. As a kid I built a minibike engine that had been through auto shop 1 students. The block had holes drilled in it and someone beat the power output side of the briggs rototiller engine with a hammer. I drilled and tapped the holes and repaired the hammer damage with jb weld, paying close attention to surface prep. I got that 5 hp briggs running and running well. I enjoy watching you guys do these repairs because it scratches that small-town, neighborhood inginuity itch. The days of repairing things are disappearing along with the public sentiment that sees that as a reliable necessity. It would seem the world is addicted to planned obsolescence. So I enjoy seeing you guys go at it. I think the world needs more of this---probably why RUclips is so popular. There is a need and a desire to refit and repair. Thanks for sharing your shop with the RUclips world!!!
I like the way your father isn’t a “Fake RUclipsr” he comes across as a normal,down to earth, everyday average older guy. It’s actually refreshing!! It’s like we’re eavesdropping on his normal conversations with you. You’ve earned the subscription!!
You did a great job. As a 50yr machinist it's great to see that just about anything can be repaired. It doesn't hurt to try. That prepped block worth a minimum $1500. Empty. Fix all of the old ones! They don't make 'em anymore!
I'm 77 and the first car that I bought was a '53 Mercury, V 8 Flat Head. Bought it in '64. I was 17 years young. Drafted in the Army '65, when I got back home, Mom had sold it and the person she had sold it to had blown the engine and took it to junk yard and to this day I still remember working on it. Your video brought back a lot of memories. Thank you.
Worked in a speed shop. Never done this type of repair on a flathead. Have done that stitch procedure to save an ultra rare numbers matching head. It worked and held up for several years. It may still be holding up. The customer moved to the western side of the country. Every thing I saw here was done with judicious care and should make for a happy customer. Have been enjoying watching your channel. I would not even think twice about you doing machine work for me or family.
I have been an Automotive parts interpreter on and off for almost 2 decades now, and it's fantastic to watch people actually doing actual mechanical work!
My Grandfather owned a Machine shop from the 1920's till the 50's in Chicago. "Guaranteed Gear service", I was too young to appreciate the skill of that profession. I started working on cars when I was 15 . At the age of 20 I found myself spending most of my paycheck at "Performance Automotive",They built me a brand new 427, open chamber ZL1 heads, ported , polished, cc'd ect. That was 1972. I still have it. Watching what you do justifies every penny I spent. You both are miracle workers.
Everything you have done looked fine considering the position and material density or lack of it I have been precision machining for forty years and your workmanship is second to none! I am 62 and never stop learning. I appreciate how you don't edit out your issues and things not panning out, he who hasn't made a mistake has made nothing . Iam so pleased you attempted the repair I remember in NZ in the sixties flatheads were every where now you rarely see them. I hope we here down the line how old mate fairs with the engine ? my moneys on it will be just fine. Look forward to seeing more great posts wishing you well with this one especially
Dad seems to have the world by the tail here. Farming a bit (most likely paid for), continuing to work with his son doing what they both love, and right at home! Without a doubt, Dad has earned the right to be where he is, at this point in his life.
Exactly right! This type of work is a dying art, nobody wants to do it anymore because it is a gamble if it is going to last, this repair and saving the 327 sbc are the best!
As a 30 year mechanic, we did this on heavy duty blocks and heads. Your repair looks good and much less stress than on heavy duty engines, as long as it does not get overheated again.
In 2006, I had the machine work done on my engine by an 'old codger' old-school rural machinist. He was somewhere in his late 80s, and still working. He came from a generation that had to figure out how to do things that nobody had thought of before, and whatever parts were needed often required to be made from scratch. I was also forewarned that 'his customers' - meaning the local farmers - came first. If they needed something fixed, the old man would drop everything to get the farmer's machinery widgets working and back in the field ASAP because of the short plowing, planting, or whatever 'season' it may be. My engine could wait! I was in awe at the skills that he had learned over 60+ years of being a machinist! He's gone now, and I can only hope that there are young people still learning those valuable tradesman skills!
No telling how many more years we can watch a skilled family of Machinists tackle stuff like this let alone a flathead ford engine. Nothing but enjoyable and informative to watch.
I think the repair is actually excellent. If you take into account where the water jacket is.. which you did.. the flanged sleeve.. the plugs.. the sealant.. the valve seat. All of it, to me, seems like a redundancy of sealing measures that all appear to be working together to make a very successful outcome. The plugs and sealer stopped the leak until machining and it was still probably 95% sealed. The vacuum pulling sealer in and then pressing in a seat with sealer would just about have to have sealed it off, especially at the low cooling system pressures those old engines operate at. Excellent work!!!
This brought back some old memories. When I was a teenager in the late 50's and living on a farm, both my Dad and I had a reputation for being able to fix things. Based on that, a friend of a friend asked me to do a valve job on his 53 Mercury. After pulling the heads, I found a crack just like this one only probably a bit worse. Neither my Dad, the local mechanic nor I had the courage to try and fix it. The valve job turned into an engine swap. So I took great pleasure in watching you repair this one.
GM technician since 1974 and still working , Certified Master auto technician General Motors training and ASE certified . I did some machine work and I say that was an excellent repair ! I really like to see you put that engine together and see it running . Thanks !
I'm a retired machinist that has never machined an engine block but everything you have done in this repair makes perfect sense. The only thing I could see compromising the repair is the heat factor once it's running and things expand. As you indicated a cooling system sealer may go a long way to ensure some added protection. FYI, I did find the valve seat insert a little tighter than I would have expected as it brought back horror story memories of a mechanical seal replacement on a water ring vacuum pump I once repaired. Good work guys!
Im really enjoying seeing you seize the opportunity that your channel is providing you to fix all these things nobody else would be able to attempt and the fact that you're turning the direction of your channel on more of a somewhat regular basis is about the best thing I get to watch on RUclips. These old engines would be melted down and you're not letting them go to waste
I have absolutely nothing constructive to contribute to this specific project BUT I really enjoy watching skilled professionals work and it doesn't matter what profession. The video is fascinating as are the constructive comments from others. Love your channel.
To get your soapy water solution onto the surface being checked without bubbles, we use a small squeeze bottle with a long flexible plastic tube dangling into the soap solution. It finally “disappeared” so I just used a small catsup squeeze bottle with a small opening in the tip. Works pretty good. I think the bottle with flex tube was for checking natural gas connections. May be available in the plumbing section of Home Depot or such. You do a great job with old iron! Years ago I used a machine shop I could trust like your customers trust you today.You are few and far between. I am a long-retired mechanical engineer (engine design for the Big Three - the one that starts with “F”) and I still enjoy following engine work. Your channel and Steve Morris’ channel are my favorites.
The reality in my mind is that fewer and fewer decent blocks will exist as the years roll on. I think any attempt to preserve the heart of a vintage vehicle is worth it. Who knows, 20 years from now they may be able to do a flawless repair with new tech. However, if you scrap an engine, it doesn’t come back. I got a 60s Ford style side that sat for 30ish years and I remember the machinist looking at just the head of the 300 saying, “Oh man we’re in for one.” It was a hefty repair time, after a bent pushrod mucked cylinder 5 up pretty good, but once I got it back in my rig, it’s purred wonderfully for the last 2500 miles. I know that isn’t a ton, but it’s only a collector vehicle that gets to strut its stuff every other month or so. The best part is it’s the same heart it left that factory with. I had the option to throw in a $400 core, but I figured any effort to repair what she came with was worth it.
Just an old gearhead who still loves the old gm inline motors. Have repaired head cracks on #1 between the valves caused by "popper" thermostats in cold weather. Did with a #6 torch tip and fine brazing wire. Some cracks ran (many) but those that didn't are still running today, one in my 49 chevy 2door post. Only tried the trick on my own stuff, so nobody hurt but me. Had no other way, had not heard of pinning/stiching. Would be something I'd try though. Am 75 & still building power makers. Next will be a 350 for my Dad's old 1/2 ton, with 3 on the tree. Great stuff, guys!
The 'metal stitching' technique was invented in the 1930s to repair cracked or broken cast iron such as steam engines, commercial boilers, etc - so it's been around for a long time. Needless to say, finding persons with the requisite skill is becoming increasingly difficult - so 'touche' to JAMSI for giving the crack repair a red hot go.
I’m not a machinist. Always found it super super interesting though. I really do appreciate your guys approach to repairs. From experimenting, giving your customers options, to being inquisitive on if something will work and not just assuming you know everything. It’s refreshing to see that in a world full of know-at-all mechanics I deal with all the time. They know it all yet can’t seem to fix a damn thing. It’s exhausting.
This video is fascinating. I have heard for years that cracks like this cannot be repaired, yet you have done it. I have had a 1940 Ford for almost 50 years. The engine that was in it when I got it was tired and there was water getting into the oil. The second engine was installed in 1978 and lasted until 2002 or so (suspected stuck valve). The current motor has about 20K miles on it and is in good shape, but every time I go into the garage a part of me wants to try to repair or at least assess those two other engines to see if they can be repaired. You have given me hope. I do hope that the engine in this video is re-assembled and tested. Thank you for posting a GREAT video!
50:54 I've tried to seal and exhaust seat in a 425 Nailhead that went into water that didn't last long, a different head with much smaller O.D. exhaust seats (that didn't hit water) was the repair that lasted. What I see here is as good a repair as I think is possible, and given the application and the minimal stress 100 odd HP puts on an engine, you're good to go. I would add some form of stop leak in the cooling system since you never know where a pin hole can develop on an ancient block casting. I'd just use raw water an sealer for the initial break in then drain down and add antifreeze. Good work!
I can't make any knowledgeable comment because I've never done a repair like this before, But I'm amazed that you get negative comments from people watching, Why do people do this when all I see is a man who is passionate about his work and trying his best, What more can you ask of anyone ?.
Jim: We are all different, and I would not (and could not) change the way I raised my son. If I had done things differently I do not think my boy would the man he is, and of whom I am so proud. But, I am selfishly envious of the relationship you have with yours. I hope you know how blessed you are ( I think you do). Love your vids and keep up the good work.
Good episode. Over 3/4 of a century old now and mostly built boat engines, on and off since I was 16. Raw water cooled flatheads like early Crusaders, etc. get thin from salt water corrosion. They crack easy from interference fits when doing valve seat inserts. Long ago we started using JB Weld and 0.001 fits to set valve seats in old flatheads. Sometimes we'd make it barely a press fit and rough up both sides by shot blasting the faces. JB Weld it in. Good to 500*F and those engines never get that hot. Ocean water is not allowed over 160*F (thermostat) or it'll salt the block. Fresh water, never over 180*F. Yeah you give up some power at lower temps, but any boat running a flathead is not going for power ... Never had one fail yet 😅
Fortunately my neighbor was restoring a 1940 Ford Opera Coupe with a flathead V-8. He had the correct tool to compress the spring. Problem was the assemblys were very stuck. However, we were successful in finally removing them.
@jamsionline about 25 years ago I was at a machine shop trying to save a Packard Straight 8. I think I installed about 600 repair plugs in total, just like the ones you're showing here. It was cracked through the seats like this Mercury, across the deck, inside outside, everywhere. But we couldn't locate a better block, so we pressed on. We also did all 16 seats, 8 sleeves, and used a K-Line sealer on the internal water jacket when we were done. It's still running to this day and has logged TONS of miles including a cross country tour that was over 8,500 miles by itself. Your practices are sound. The only thing we did different way back then, was we peened every plug after we installed it and before we installed the next one. Cheers.
I loved the "your time ain't worth much, because you won't charge for what your time is worth". That's the truest statement ever, I don't think people acknowledge or can comprehend how much experience and knowledge are actually worth. Someone can get the job done cheaper, but that doesn't mean it's fine correctly.
I had no idea pinning a cracked block like that was even a thing. Respect just for the amount of work you put in in the attempt. Can't wait to find out if it worked.
I have done similar repairs with screw in pegs but found they generally failed in service after repeated heat cycles. These days I would grind out the crack and weld it with TIG and silicon bronze then do a sleeve and an inset. My guess is that you might have a 50/50 chance of long term success if as you mentioned the motor does not get overheated. On balance I think the repair you did was as well done as possible and has a good enough chance of success to justify having done it. I would have given a higher chance of long term success if the material between the port and cylinder had been solid rather than having the water jack intersect it. I particularly enjoy watching you deal with problems like this.
I love watching this channel. Pulling the vacuum and adding some anaerobic sealant trying to pull it in was a great idea. I have very little experience with this type of work however, I can’t find fault with sound critical thinking. I hope your customer wants to finish the project and at least find out how it went. 🤓
I’m at 73-year-old retired transmission shop owner I go way back. My uncle and my father used to work on flatheads a lot. I don’t know much about the flatheads other than they had problems with them overheating. I would like to just thank you for what I’m learning from your show. Thank you both.
Guys, I have never done a similar repair to this. I am familiar with stitching. I saw a large lathe that got dropped and the bed broke right off. They fixed it with stitching. But I have done some repairs that also, (THERE WAS NO OTHER WAY). I'd say you have about a 70% chance that it will last. Heat cycles are the problem. Thin cast iron is always a wreck waiting to happen. I noticed some little chunks breaking out while you were drilling. That makes me nervous. I think your logic is sound. Your work was superb. The anerobic sealant did the job. It's just all of those pesky heat/cool cycles that make me nervous. I wish you good fortunes on this project.
I've used those pins many times on repairs and always had excellent success. One time was the head of a 8n tractor with 8-9" crack and still runs today 20 years later. Numerous cracked blocks from froze water and i think you guys did a awesome job!! Cleaning guys a bad mo fo!!
You did everything right Jim, old school pinning, did that plenty of times when I was a fitter & turner back in the 80s. Very similar to what we used to call scotch locks. Thanks for the video boys
I'm an A & P and used to rebuild 4 cyl engines but never machined anything myself. I love watching your videos and the constant banter with each other. In hind sight I would use the anerobic sealer on the threaded plugs to aid in sealing any micro leaks & to essentially glue them in. Another great video.
This should be interesting. My Grandfather had a 1951 suicide 4 door he bought new. He was 95 when he passed and the car had 19k original miles on the odometer. As you can imagine it was a Sunday go to church and cemetery. Found out after we finally pulled it out of the garage it wouldn't start. What a bear it was to get those valve assemblies out.
I am very proud of you as a shop, that actually repairs parts and doesn't just scrap them. Anyone can work with "good" material,,, It takes craftsmanship and skill to "work with what you have got." That makes your shop better, unique, and honestly some place I would send my work to.
Awesome repair guys. Unfortunately in the automotive industry today everything is thrown away and replaced. Real technicians appreciate the effort that you put in. Keep up the good work watching from Victoria Australia
I used to be a mechanic, and I am truly amazed at the quality of the work you guys do. This job in particular looks like such a challenge. Good luck from Australia.
Remember using lock n stitch back in the early 90's. Seems like we always had pretty good luck using them and your repair looks good to me. I recall using a jig to help with spacing/overlap of the screws, think it helped with getting started on your first screw as well. Always had a love hate relationship with the pressure tester! Thanks for videos, keep up the good work!
Hi guys from the UK, I've been a mechanical engineer for 50 years. Most of them in the rebuild industry. Everything I've watched you two do to this engine is the right way to approach this kind of damage. Admittedly, I've never worked on a flathead, but have repaired many a V8 Ford, Jaguar, and Rover SD over the years. Many of which had similar issues. With each one we faced different challenges. Some were successful, others not. But if you dont try to a repair then they all end up in the scrap pile. Great work great show guys. Ex British army REME.
there WAS a sleeve coompany with "hi temperature anerobic sealant" just bore strate thru 0 - (+1) , paint bore & sleeve , slide in to flush , let sit and voila .... well i kept getting repots of failures . i put in with lower ledgebore and "0" . sealer did set fast once in . had one H sleeve , went in snug and did set up have way in , with same sealer , just as you said ; tite , LOCKS fast
I've been a Machinist for 45yrs, but my background is mostly Industrial Equipment repairs for Refineries and Chemical Plants. Repairing cast iron is always hit or miss, we had luck and times with welding or brazing and metal stitching worked well at times too. Although I'm not sure how accurate it is, the Company that began the use of metal stitching (Metallock) was from my area. Great work on the repair of the block and I very much enjoy watching your videos.
I'm not a machinist. I'm a carpenter by trade. I was absolutely amazed at the ingenuity. I absolutely love seeing skilled people going outside the box.
This is standard practice in the case that someone wants this done and can pay for it. It's definitely a high skilled job to do, but that's not ingenuity.
I am not an expert, and i am not a hater. I learned something from your videos, and i enjoyed watching them. Thank you for posting. I am looking forward to watching more.
Not related to the repair, but to sealing it... When we used Cometic gaskets on my race motor, it would drip slightly sitting there. Engine builder and I conferred, and we used some KD block sealer in it.... Sealed the motor until we pulled it apart for the next refresh. Could do something like that as a back up plan to make sure it don't leak..
Thoroughly enjoyed your video , going to show it to a 92 y/o in our area who is well versed in these engines as well as model T engines and I’m sure he will be delighted to see how you all have done but also get his feedback! Thanks for a great channel!
My dad had cracked a six cylinder 250 Chevy six cylinder motor due to running straight water in the cooling system. Back in 1974, you could get by in the somer time like that if you were broke and couldn't afford Prestone. When it got cold and froze, the water inside the motor froze and cracked the cylinders. He had a mechanic friend that tore it apart and scratched the cracks out wider. He then put a product in those cracks he called LIQUID STEEL. He sanded and honed the cylinders and valve holes out after leaving each cylinder under a heat lamp for 24 to 48 hours. My dads mechanic then put things back together, crossing his fingers and a preyer. God answered his prayers. My dad drove that truck another 60,000 miles with no engine problems at all. I was in 8th grade then. When my older sister started driving, it was around town and out to where our horses were kept to feed and ride them. Then my sauftmore year i started driving it around. We never had a problem with it. I joined Autoshop in high school for my last three years. My dad finally sold it and bought a truck with a V-8 because my dad was a team roaper and needed a bigger truck to pull a horse trailer and a hay trailer around. The people who bought that old truck never got rid of it. After i graduated from high school, we moved out of the little high desert town of bagdad. My dad never ran another vehicle without some form of coolant again.
I know yall are a father and son but dad reminds me so much of my grandpa. God i miss that man, i heard stories from him, my dad and uncles on how he fixed things that no one could. He truly was a master st mechanical and machining. He passed when i was 15 and i did my best to soak up every ounce of knowledge i could. He forgot more than i would ever know. Thank yall for these videos!
This is a pretty "common" industrial repair procedure. Using the "Metalock" procedure I've had large (8,000+ HP) main bearing supports repaired after a severe casualty and even though the engine OEM wasn't in favor of the repair it was successful and the vessel is still in service...
I think you did the best possible repair. It's very difficult to find a crack free flathead block. You did an awesome job. Tell your customer to run a new core radiator and run it with the radiator cap to the pressure release position.
I am truly amazed at your abilities. In the 40 and 50s we had enough flatheads that we just went and got another one. I'm sure that if you get it all together it will work without incident. I also know it will have that great flathead sound. Bless you both for your commitment to such a product and letting us follow along on your progress.
The race engine builder I knew back in the 1970s was a strong proponent of crack repair with Allstate Number 11 alloy. I also used this same alloy on dozens of my own cast iron repairs. As one would normally do, V out the crack area and then heat the entire casting.. once really hot, in the high 300s to low 400s F, wrap all but the work area with heat blanket...use flux and the 11 with oxy-acetylene to fill braise, then full wrap with blanket and let cool slow. Allstate 11 is stronger than common braising alloys and also wets to the base metal better. I personally have not known of an iron repair done with Allstate 11 that failed.. whereas common alloy repairs have many failure modes.. poor adhesion or stress cracking. These stitch plugs carry a very good reputation. It would be interesting to see this engine disassembled in 20 years after thousands of heat cycles and trillions upon trillions of vibration cycles.
TIG brazing is awesome, no flux, no concerns about burning the iron. The bad thing about brazing it is the large variation in wall thickness and the overall mass of the block, I bet that it wor crack in other places while cooling.
@@carlherrnstein9544 Never saw that problem with Allstate 11 on hot base metal with oxy/acetylene. Back in those days tig was not common.. very expensive. It would be interesting tig 11. I would think you still need oven hot iron.
Hey Guys , I started building small gas engines at the age of 8 years old and moved on automotive engines as I got older . By the time I was in my mid teens I built my own engines for my cars and pickups ! I am now 60 years old and watching how you have repaired this engine , and from what I can see you have done everything to a high level of professionalism ! The repairs you have done , I would be surprised if they fail ! Only time will tell ! New technology is something that I fear at times , I have learned that most of these new ways of repairing things are not wrong , they are just different from the way we were trained to do them ! Yes it could have been welded and then sleeved , but that did not always work either ! So stop worrying about if it is wrong or right ! Hey if this works like it looks like it will , all of us Gearheads will have one more tool for our mental tool box !😊 Keep up the great work!!!
Why wouldn't a sleeve have worked instead of the stitch repair. Funny deal, I watch those videos of those guys from India or Pakistan making emergent repairs to cast iron all the time. What they would have done (and this is no joke) is heat the block up in a fire fueled by dried cow manure, grind away the crack, and then fill everything in with a stick welder. Now I know the Cleaning Guy manages the farm, so he has the cow manure, and that makes this repair automatic.
A sleeve might seal the cylinder wall, but would do nothing for sealing the exhaust port. As for the Pakistani welding on cast iron blocks, we never see what happens when those motors are put back into service. Call me doubtful in the extreme.
@@jacksons1010 I'm suggesting milling out the exhaust port, and inserting a sleeve. I'm with you on those Pakistani repairs, but man they are fun to watch. I watched them weld up an engine head that was broken completely in two, and make a weld repair to the cast front axle of a four wheel drive truck.
@jacksons1010 people claim they weld cast iron with Nickel rods and it works great... they don't tell you about how hard and brittle it gets in the weld area. They tens to crack right next to the weld, and the hardened areas make it nearly impossible to machine... but I'm curious if bronze braising would work. It's plenty strong for this application, low stress, and very machinable. Not sure about the thermal cycling and how it would handle combustion gasses, etc.
When I was 18, did a refresh/rebuild on my 2.5 litre inline 6 from my Triumph TR6.... and there was a giant crack/burn between an intake and exhaust valve in the head (No hardened seats in that thing)... and because I simply didn't know any better... I stitched it with a MIG welder, and ground it back to the correct shape with a dremel and lapped the valves in really well... touch wood, I never had the slightest issue with that engine, so sometimes I guess it's best just to not know what you're not supposed to do.
Sir I’m a welder by trade do quite a bit of cast welds. Even welded a patch in a block that had the rod go through it. You did the right thing. I would not have attempted any other type of repair is the materials too thin. I would have sent the customer to a machine shop like yours to stich it up.
Wow guys this video was FASCINATING! I would never have thought of fixing a crack this way - bloody ingenious! Of course, I'm not a machinist or mechanic though! I make little wires into tiny wires! I love how the next repair bolt is screwed in to penetrate & tap into the previous one, & you use the 'anaerobic sealer'on each one, with each snap-off bolt. Then die grinding the protruding bits off like they were almost never there - so clever Jim! All the calculations to get the exact amount of interference/compression fit down to all those decimal places? Holy crap youse have to have great equipment, knowledge, machinery & tools to do that! I finally worked out why youse had all those bolts there holding that laser cut plate onto the block. It wasn't a 'torque plate' that I've seen used before - another ingenious idea! - It was a 'sealer plate' as Jim said at the end. Riiight! - to seal the water jacket so youse could do the pressure test ay! - And the vacuum test! Very clever also to set up a vacuum lastly, to kinda suck the anaerobic sealer into the very last minute leak that remained! You guys are like scientists! That was so good to see NO bubbles at the end! Youse dun it! Yeehah! Now, as for the longevity & reliability of this repair, let's hope the owner tries real hard to never let this donk overheat, for a start! Ensuring that, let's also hope the sealer is temperature stable, which I guess it's been designed to be so. The last thing I thought of was the pressure of the coolant that's gonna be on the repair. I thought I saw somewhere that radiator caps are calibrated to about 9 to 12 psi. Then I read in previous comments that the radiator caps in these flat head engines are calibrated to only 4 psi. You tested it at 35 psi, so guys, I humbly reckon that youse have absolutely nailed this! - Given the previous 'restrictions' I mentioned. I had such fun & learned so much watching this! I can't wait for the next instalment on this engine - if there's gonna be one! - Please? And of course, as always, I'd love to see this engine installed & running in the vehicle! - A jeep was it? - I forget what you said. THANK YOU for this gift!
If it is the inlet port, then I give it a ten out ten chanve of lasting. If it is the exhaust port then my only concern would be whether the sealer withstands the heat. Mechanically it is a good repair. It is not a high performance engine and therefore the heat cycles will be less but on the other hand, the cooling system is not of the best design. Like all repairs, we take a chance and you gave it the best.
The repair looks good and I think it will last , BUT being a mechanic for 50+years I seen my father in law who was a mechanic and I worked for him for almost 9 years I seen him weld cracks in blocks and cylinder heads with a stick rod welded and those engines ran good and he Guarantee them on old Continental, Hercules, and diesel engines ! We also welded broken water pumps and other cast iron parts ! Back in 1960-1970 , thanks your videos are great !
I have repaired over 100 of those engine blocks that was a very common problem. It was caused by two things. Casting core shift and over heating the cooling system . The only thing that I was taught is plug all the way through the into the water jacket so that the plug can put pressure on the area so it does not open up when the block heats up. Of corse we know have to stop the crack with the first pin inserted past the end of the crack. The rest is perfect and installing the sleeve with on size bore and sleeve ( because the factory steel sleeves were installed that way). Those sleeves were bored and honed to piston size and could be bough as a set piston and sleeve together. Smart move to use a flange sleeve so the gasket and head will hold in should it try to move. Also I have a trick to help with upper end oil control. Since you are upgrading the valve train with late model keeper type valves you can cut the spring end of the solid guide for a .500 Id 11/32 nylon valve seal that way no oil can be sucked up the valve stem. That is providing the inner spring diameter will allow the seal to fit. Also adjustable lifters are a god send if this engine will be driver a lot. My suggestion is that you grind the end of the adjuster bolt flat you can use the butt grinder on your valve machine. I have several up dates to make the old ford model “A” engines Highway compatible over 60 mph and live.
I’m no machinist, just an old backyard mechanic in my younger years. Great job as far as I can see. Learning anything costs something, no matter where or what you do. Thanks for the chance to see you both work on this engine repair 👍😎 Fascinating! 😎👍
With my dad back in the 60's to mid 80's we did Merc Flathead s, Lincoln V12 flatties and one or two early 50's ford sixes. Coolant system was 2 to 4 psi max you repair will last. If you want belt and suspenders use Irontite CRS-16 Ceramic Seal or Moroso Part # 35500 Ceramic seal , We used it on the Lincoln V12s with zero issues and doing the ceramic seal one the run in stand will cause no issues with the radiator ir header core.
Hey just wanted to say I love these videos especially this one on the old MERC flathead 8. It is so great seeing these methods to fix the crack and install the new sleeve and seat. I think any customer would be proud to have you two work on their stuff. Keep up the GREAT work and please know that WE ALL really enjoy these vids!!! 🙂
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Good Work
Hey guys I wanted to follow-up on your request for information regarding cast iron crack repair methods. My 87 year old father had a Automotive machine shop in central missouri that he shut down when he hit 70. I estimate he stitched 20 to 25 old cast iron blocks, as far as I know they are all still running without issue. The sealant that you use was not available 25 years ago. If he had a slow leak he would apply vacuum just like you did, heat the block and use a special low temp lead filler. (I still have 4 sticks in my toolbox). I also made some special peening punches for him. I will be 65 this September. I am a certified master mold maker. I have welded many different ferrous and non-ferrous metals and tool steel alloys that I doubt you have had the pleasure to work with. For large cast iron parts I use thermite, the information on how to make and use thermite was in the Machinery's handbook until 1944. I have welded hardened boat crankshaft journals. Everything I have watch in your videos are correct in my opinion. During my career I have been exposed to alot of unicorn chasing experts that talk a big talk but don't have the ability to do it. God bless you keep it going.
We appreciate the comment.
If that is the intake then I am sure you have it fixed if it's exhaust then as long it don't over heat I think it will last love to see the full rebuild and first run after
Ahh very interesting with that historical wiew and knowledge, you learned me something new. Thank you very much.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
As a retired machinist I will say, this is a tuff one. The fix is apparent. Heat and cooling is going to tell the story. Send the block to the heater and let it cool , then pressure test it again. Keep up the amazing work. Do magic!
That's still pressure testing a cold block. An invalid test. As is a PRESSURE TEST if that is an INTAKE PORT and is exposed to manifold VACUUM.
There are lots of "fixes" for those boat anchors on the "workbench". None of which are actual REPAIRS and ever work in a running engine.
Which is why they are 100% "at your own risk" when a customer "on a budget" insists on trying to "fix" a cracked flathead block because its "apparently" cheaper than "sourcing" an actually GOOD SERVICEABLE UNCRACKED BLOCK.
Which these days if you want a "guaranteed" good uncracked flathead block you pretty much have to buy a "parts car/truck" with it.
A "running and driving" parts car/truck you can do a real ROAD TEST of the engine in.
Other than that it's not even "rolling the dice" because dice produce a positive result EVERY TIME. "Sourcing" flathead V8 block/engine "cores" sight unseen - which is the case EVERY time they are not completely "torn apart" and hot tanked and shot-peened to 100% "clean" cast iron - only produces a positive result by "luck of the draw".
Every time some noob Fordtard flathead "enthusiast" finds a "project" vehicle for "restoration" that comes with 1 or more "spare" flathead engine(s) or block(s) and "new parts still in the box" he or she thinks the "spares" just sweeten the deal and he or she has visions of "flipping" the "spares" to finance the "restoration".
In reality all but EVERY TIME the "spares" were "sourced" at considerable expense even for GOOD parts but sky high SCRAP METAL PRICES by the "previous owner(s)" during their quest(s) to find a "good used" flathead engine/block "core" any professional machinist would even think about "tearing apart" to get it clean enough to "crack check" much less commit to "build" IF it was actually "rebuildable".
If not for the "quality" of Ford flathead V8s Ford never would have had to "clone" Chrysler flathead 6s and there wouldn't be any "affordable alternatives" to Ford V8 projects.
And anybody with a clue that wants an "old Ford" to "fix up" and "drive around" runs as fast as possible from V8s and right to a six-cylinder. A six-cylinder its practically impossible to "swap" a flathead V8 into "affordably" and therefore is very likely to be all original and "numbers matching". Meaning the "motor number" on the block matches the one on the frame. Which is as "numbers matching" as Fords get. And which numbers so many Fordtards refer to as a "VIN" even though it has no relevance to the vehicle identification whatsoever.
Of course inline 6 Fords were/are relatively "rare" because by the time Ford offered a V8 "alternative" that could "compete" with the other companies still stuck in Flathead Land "post-war" it was only to "slow the bleeding" and only "Uncle Sam" and other government agencies and people stuck with Ford V8s were "loyal" Ford customers.
And many were scrapped in the "hot rod era" because they were "only" 6-bangers. And they were not a "bargain" compared to a V8.
But they are still out there and being Chrysler 230-cube flathead 6 "clones" they're about as hard to BREAK if they weren't/aren't completely abused and neglected as flathead V8s are to "FIX" if they have been anything BUT pampered and driven like an antiques from NEW.
@@deeremeyer1749 It appears to be an exhaust port
I worked at Finning the worlds largest Caterpillar dealer. Years and years ago a fellow by the name of Axl would replace sections of engine blocks that had thrown a rod or whatever and put a hole in the block. He had an inventory of old blocks to choose from and he would cut out the damaged area and replace with undamaged area from his block inventory. These repairs often included oil galleries. He stitched them together with the tapered plugs, ground them flat and then stippled the repaired area. When finished and painted you could not see the repair. He was truly a master of his craft.
I had to look up the word "Stippled" to engrave by means of dots and flicks
When I first saw the teardown video of this engine, my first thought was actually...
Why not cut that part of the block out and just replace it?
Good to know I'm just crazy, not stupid.
Way back in apprenticeship training, we were taght to drill and tap pipe threads in the cracked block and stitch wit iron plugs. Seems like it would work better having the plugs the same material as the block, eliminating or reducing the chance of failure due to different thermal expanion.
In 1993 , Working at So Cal Edison as a power plant operator @ Long Beach Gen Sta.. we had a 1932 70mw GE steam turbine develop a vacuum leak on the cast iron exhaust hood.. GE sent a Retired GE Metal Smith on contract to repair the 2.5ft crack by metal stitching technique.. it hasn't cracked any further and is still in use today as it is rhe oldest still in use GE turbine in the world.. Its sister unit is at the bottom of the black sea from being sunk by german u boat.. it was part of the Lend/Lease act for WW2... That Power plant has be in multible movies and tv series.. its most famous movie was "Its a Mad Mad Mad World" at the end with the chase scene over the floating bridge, the Hay Day of the Generation Station in Long Beach Ca with all 3 plants on site generating power, Plant 1, Plant 2, Plant 3...
Thank you for sharing that! What cool facts.
This was a different type of welding, but my grandpa Oscar's old cross-stitch welds are still holding strong seen it a few months ago while doing some x-ray inspections on other stuff. I’m based in Corona, and while my main job is product design, I’ve got nearly 24 years of experience in welding, mostly on old repairs.
Welding runs in my family-my dad worked for the Long Beach Water Department, my grandpa kept oil rigs running, and my great-grandpa maintained old steam engines before serving in WWII. Though it’s not my day job, I’m teaching my kids this rare skill, especially in repairing dirty cast iron and porous metals. Even with a few cases a year, welding can pay more than my main job, but it's about preserving a dying art.
Do you share it on utube@@ZoeyR86
Why this couldn‘t be welded was my primary question. Only did a welding course once and am not a professional of course, but interested in it since a kid - and have seen stuff welded that was said couldn‘t be (like cast aluminum). Hence my idea of why this one should not be possible to be welded, instead of being stitched. Personally I find those screws awkward, given physical expansion on hot/cold cycles. But granted, they already surpassed my expectations.
@@pan6593that block is cast iron and the metal gets brittle if you do a conventional weld on it. It must be done by heating the area to be welded first and then a special rod used to do the weld. Surface must also stay at the right temp while doing the repair. Metal stitching uses steel pins. Those expand at a slower rate than the cast iron. The cast iron will exert enough pressure against the pins to keep it sealed without the pins expanding too much causing more cracks. And by pinning it, you don't make the cast iron anymore brittle than it is naturally.
“I shake every can I pick up”…I almost spit my drink across the room when I heard it. Y’all have a helluva sense of humor!
I was expecting a 13 year old boys giggle when he said that
Yeah, my mind went straight to the gutter with that comment. 😂
I do the same thing, just don't tell people that I shake it.
Manganese poisoning is known to cause Parkinsons in weldors....🤔
Please, Please, Let us all know how this engine runs when it is finally complete. I was shocked, amazed and incredibly interested in your repair using those tapped in studs. Simply amazing craftsmanship.
They're called "stitching pins" and they're kind of like magic.
Yes please, let us know how the finished product works. Love your work
Those old flatheads used a 4 pound pressure cap. . I am 82 years old and love to see you work on these old engines.
I am 84 and also enjoying memories of flathead powered Model A's of my youth!
My wife and I were just talking as we watched this episode. This channel and many like it are absolutely invaluable to young people trying to figure out what they want to do in life. If they are thinking about becoming a machinist (or anything else), they can watch these videos and see what it is really like, and decide if this type of work is right for them.
I am about the same age as the cleaning guy. When I was in high school, the guidance counselor would have us fill out some hopelessly outdated survey and based on our responses, recommend a few career paths. We had no idea what that meant or what the jobs were like. It was only after you signed up for college, trade school or if really lucky, landed an entry level job that you got to see what you got yourself into. You guys are providing a service that goes so far beyond the work you are doing for your customers.
There's a company called Lock-N-Stitch who several years ago put a vid out about a HUGE cast iron valve housing repair they did. That was the first time I'd seen that type of repair done and it was pretty interesting. The ONLY thing I may suggest (based on what I learned from their video) would be to heat the block you're working on and keep it hot while doing the repair, (300+ degrees if possible, yeah I know it would suck doing the work at that temp) and then when the work cooled, it would ensure you were compressing your repair studs as tight as possible, plus if it was hotter than what that engine would ever normally get to, then an "expansion - leak- while-running" leak wouldn't be an issue. Very nice repair for sure!!!!
It's amazing what the Cleaning Guy can accomplish when the Boss isn't around....
Thanks for the vid guys!!!!
Jay Leno used Lock N Stitch and swears by them. He had a block for something that there is no replacements . The block had a lot of cracks and they stitched it up to perfection . I think he has had a few engines done. I remember him showing either a demo piece or the finished part without paint. He didn't show the process at Lock N Stitch that I recall. He should do a show on it from L N S
You can see that they're using lock-n-stitch if you look closely at the tap
I am a retired 76-year-old tool and die maker, and I really enjoyed this flat head crack repair. I try to repair almost everything before I throw it away. I enjoy repairing anything that other people have been told that it can't be fixed. Keep up the Great videos.
I"m 76 years old and I have done some the crazyist stuff imaginable because I never had the money to do it right. Necessity is the mother of invention as they say. What you are doing is well thought out, working with what is available. It should work fine. Remember, this engine will not be used like a new car. It probably will not see 500 miles in a year and not hard miles. I think it has good odds. Also, I give away a lot of my time these days just to see if I can do it.
me too. im 70. i call it world class jack leggin.
Well sir, when you "just to see if I can do it", time doesn't mean a thing now does it. It's the challenge to think outside the box and say "yes I did it".
Cleaning guy here. I do the same, give away time on jobs that I think might be fun. The kid gets upset with me and says I don't charge enough for what I do. I consider myself at the very least semi-retired. It is fun to try some of the things I always wanted to do but never could because there were too many bills to pay.
@@JAMSIONLINE CG, (though I don't think you deserve that title), that's wonderful that you do that because your experiment might just be the solution to someone else's problem. I really appreciate your skills and knowledge, very fun to watch!
@@JAMSIONLINE I'm right there with ya. I'm 69 and semi-retired and do the same thing, and yes, it is fun to try some of the things I always wanted to do but never could because there were too many bills to pay... 🤓
Not a mechanic myself but very proud of you for stepping out of your comfort level and trying something different to try to save a rare piece of history.
Good work gentleman.
I’ve done a lot of crack repairs with lock and stitch, I always install every other plug then put an intersecting plug in between. I believe that is what lock and stitch recommends.
Sorry for my ignorance, why not grind it and fill with weld ?
@@nichudnic2469 Afraid the temperature difference would crack the cast iron someplace else.
I’ve welded cast iron before and it can be very difficult to do correctly
@nichudnic2469 that spot was so thin it would be extremely difficult cast needs to be preheated before welding with nickel rod.
@@iknowyourebrokeauto468 the crack is also very close to water which would contaminate the weld, you’d probably just make everything worse. In my experience if the part drops below 650f during welding the crack will just spread or a new one would appear
Machinist at GE 42 years in the tool room. I have repaired many cracks in cast iron. Your method is second to none. I applaud your process.
I enjoy watching you guys piece stuff back together. My grandparents were depression-era, and I grew up in a blue-collar neighborhood. People used to fix things with the skills and materials they had. RUclips didn't exist. As a kid I built a minibike engine that had been through auto shop 1 students. The block had holes drilled in it and someone beat the power output side of the briggs rototiller engine with a hammer. I drilled and tapped the holes and repaired the hammer damage with jb weld, paying close attention to surface prep. I got that 5 hp briggs running and running well.
I enjoy watching you guys do these repairs because it scratches that small-town, neighborhood inginuity itch. The days of repairing things are disappearing along with the public sentiment that sees that as a reliable necessity. It would seem the world is addicted to planned obsolescence. So I enjoy seeing you guys go at it. I think the world needs more of this---probably why RUclips is so popular. There is a need and a desire to refit and repair. Thanks for sharing your shop with the RUclips world!!!
I like the way your father isn’t a “Fake RUclipsr” he comes across as a normal,down to earth, everyday average older guy. It’s actually refreshing!! It’s like we’re eavesdropping on his normal conversations with you. You’ve earned the subscription!!
You did a great job. As a 50yr machinist it's great to see that just about anything can be repaired. It doesn't hurt to try. That prepped block worth a minimum $1500. Empty. Fix all of the old ones! They don't make 'em anymore!
I'm 77 and the first car that I bought was a '53 Mercury, V 8 Flat Head. Bought it in '64. I was 17 years young. Drafted in the Army '65, when I got back home, Mom had sold it and the person she had sold it to had blown the engine and took it to junk yard and to this day I still remember working on it. Your video brought back a lot of memories. Thank you.
Worked in a speed shop. Never done this type of repair on a flathead. Have done that stitch procedure to save an ultra rare numbers matching head. It worked and held up for several years. It may still be holding up. The customer moved to the western side of the country. Every thing I saw here was done with judicious care and should make for a happy customer. Have been enjoying watching your channel. I would not even think twice about you doing machine work for me or family.
I have been an Automotive parts interpreter on and off for almost 2 decades now, and it's fantastic to watch people actually doing actual mechanical work!
My Grandfather owned a Machine shop from the 1920's till the 50's in Chicago. "Guaranteed Gear service", I was too young to appreciate the skill of that profession. I started working on cars when I was 15 . At the age of 20 I found myself spending most of my paycheck at "Performance Automotive",They built me a brand new 427, open chamber ZL1 heads, ported , polished, cc'd ect. That was 1972. I still have it. Watching what you do justifies every penny I spent. You both are miracle workers.
Looks great!
Everything you have done looked fine considering the position and material density or lack of it I have been precision machining for forty years and your workmanship is second to none! I am 62 and never stop learning. I appreciate how you don't edit out your issues and things not panning out, he who hasn't made a mistake has made nothing . Iam so pleased you attempted the repair I remember in NZ in the sixties flatheads were every where now you rarely see them. I hope we here down the line how old mate fairs with the engine ? my moneys on it will be just fine. Look forward to seeing more great posts wishing you well with this one especially
Dad seems to have the world by the tail here. Farming a bit (most likely paid for), continuing to work with his son doing what they both love, and right at home! Without a doubt, Dad has earned the right to be where he is, at this point in his life.
I agree.
I'm so happy to see that y'all at least tried to repair the block. It's a lost art. In a disposable society repairing is a beautiful thing to see
Exactly right! This type of work is a dying art, nobody wants to do it anymore because it is a gamble if it is going to last, this repair and saving the 327 sbc are the best!
As a mechanic for 50 years it is great to see the work done by the machine shop first hand. Its must see tv. Thank you
Always great to watch a skilled machinist at work. The last pressure test after the new valve seat went in seems to show this was an effective repair.
As a 30 year mechanic, we did this on heavy duty blocks and heads. Your repair looks good and much less stress than on heavy duty engines, as long as it does not get overheated again.
In 2006, I had the machine work done on my engine by an 'old codger' old-school rural machinist. He was somewhere in his late 80s, and still working. He came from a generation that had to figure out how to do things that nobody had thought of before, and whatever parts were needed often required to be made from scratch. I was also forewarned that 'his customers' - meaning the local farmers - came first. If they needed something fixed, the old man would drop everything to get the farmer's machinery widgets working and back in the field ASAP because of the short plowing, planting, or whatever 'season' it may be. My engine could wait!
I was in awe at the skills that he had learned over 60+ years of being a machinist! He's gone now, and I can only hope that there are young people still learning those valuable tradesman skills!
No telling how many more years we can watch a skilled family of Machinists tackle stuff like this let alone a flathead ford engine. Nothing but enjoyable and informative to watch.
this channel should have 5 million subs .
I think the repair is actually excellent. If you take into account where the water jacket is.. which you did.. the flanged sleeve.. the plugs.. the sealant.. the valve seat. All of it, to me, seems like a redundancy of sealing measures that all appear to be working together to make a very successful outcome. The plugs and sealer stopped the leak until machining and it was still probably 95% sealed. The vacuum pulling sealer in and then pressing in a seat with sealer would just about have to have sealed it off, especially at the low cooling system pressures those old engines operate at. Excellent work!!!
This brought back some old memories. When I was a teenager in the late 50's and living on a farm, both my Dad and I had a reputation for being able to fix things. Based on that, a friend of a friend asked me to do a valve job on his 53 Mercury. After pulling the heads, I found a crack just like this one only probably a bit worse. Neither my Dad, the local mechanic nor I had the courage to try and fix it. The valve job turned into an engine swap. So I took great pleasure in watching you repair this one.
GM technician since 1974 and still working , Certified Master auto technician General Motors training and ASE certified . I did some machine work and I say that was an excellent repair ! I really like to see you put that engine together and see it running . Thanks !
we pinned our Minneapolis Moline head back in the 80s when we did a rebuild on it. Has lasted till this day and still runs.
I'm a retired machinist that has never machined an engine block but everything you have done in this repair makes perfect sense. The only thing I could see compromising the repair is the heat factor once it's running and things expand. As you indicated a cooling system sealer may go a long way to ensure some added protection. FYI, I did find the valve seat insert a little tighter than I would have expected as it brought back horror story memories of a mechanical seal replacement on a water ring vacuum pump I once repaired. Good work guys!
Im really enjoying seeing you seize the opportunity that your channel is providing you to fix all these things nobody else would be able to attempt and the fact that you're turning the direction of your channel on more of a somewhat regular basis is about the best thing I get to watch on RUclips. These old engines would be melted down and you're not letting them go to waste
I have absolutely nothing constructive to contribute to this specific project BUT I really enjoy watching skilled professionals work and it doesn't matter what profession. The video is fascinating as are the constructive comments from others. Love your channel.
You guys did a great job my uncle would be proud of you
He was a machinist for Ed Pink engine building you made him proud
Guys your trying to make a repair on a block that should be trash. I give you a round of applause. 👏👏👏👏
To get your soapy water solution onto the surface being checked without bubbles, we use a small squeeze bottle with a long flexible plastic tube dangling into the soap solution. It finally “disappeared” so I just used a small catsup squeeze bottle with a small opening in the tip. Works pretty good. I think the bottle with flex tube was for checking natural gas connections. May be available in the plumbing section of Home Depot or such.
You do a great job with old iron! Years ago I used a machine shop I could trust like your customers trust you today.You are few and far between. I am a long-retired mechanical engineer (engine design for the Big Three - the one that starts with “F”) and I still enjoy following engine work. Your channel and Steve Morris’ channel are my favorites.
If you google "rinse bottle" you find good bottles for this kind of application
The reality in my mind is that fewer and fewer decent blocks will exist as the years roll on. I think any attempt to preserve the heart of a vintage vehicle is worth it. Who knows, 20 years from now they may be able to do a flawless repair with new tech. However, if you scrap an engine, it doesn’t come back. I got a 60s Ford style side that sat for 30ish years and I remember the machinist looking at just the head of the 300 saying, “Oh man we’re in for one.” It was a hefty repair time, after a bent pushrod mucked cylinder 5 up pretty good, but once I got it back in my rig, it’s purred wonderfully for the last 2500 miles. I know that isn’t a ton, but it’s only a collector vehicle that gets to strut its stuff every other month or so. The best part is it’s the same heart it left that factory with. I had the option to throw in a $400 core, but I figured any effort to repair what she came with was worth it.
Just an old gearhead who still loves the old gm inline motors. Have repaired head cracks on #1 between the valves caused by "popper" thermostats in cold weather. Did with a #6 torch tip and fine brazing wire. Some cracks ran (many) but those that didn't are still running today, one in my 49 chevy 2door post. Only tried the trick on my own stuff, so nobody hurt but me. Had no other way, had not heard of pinning/stiching. Would be something I'd try though. Am 75 & still building power makers. Next will be a 350 for my Dad's old 1/2 ton, with 3 on the tree. Great stuff, guys!
The 'metal stitching' technique was invented in the 1930s to repair cracked or broken cast iron such as steam engines, commercial boilers, etc - so it's been around for a long time. Needless to say, finding persons with the requisite skill is becoming increasingly difficult - so 'touche' to JAMSI for giving the crack repair a red hot go.
I’m not a machinist. Always found it super super interesting though. I really do appreciate your guys approach to repairs. From experimenting, giving your customers options, to being inquisitive on if something will work and not just assuming you know everything. It’s refreshing to see that in a world full of know-at-all mechanics I deal with all the time. They know it all yet can’t seem to fix a damn thing. It’s exhausting.
This video is fascinating. I have heard for years that cracks like this cannot be repaired, yet you have done it. I have had a 1940 Ford for almost 50 years. The engine that was in it when I got it was tired and there was water getting into the oil. The second engine was installed in 1978 and lasted until 2002 or so (suspected stuck valve). The current motor has about 20K miles on it and is in good shape, but every time I go into the garage a part of me wants to try to repair or at least assess those two other engines to see if they can be repaired. You have given me hope. I do hope that the engine in this video is re-assembled and tested. Thank you for posting a GREAT video!
50:54 I've tried to seal and exhaust seat in a 425 Nailhead that went into water that didn't last long, a different head with much smaller O.D. exhaust seats (that didn't hit water) was the repair that lasted. What I see here is as good a repair as I think is possible, and given the application and the minimal stress 100 odd HP puts on an engine, you're good to go. I would add some form of stop leak in the cooling system since you never know where a pin hole can develop on an ancient block casting. I'd just use raw water an sealer for the initial break in then drain down and add antifreeze. Good work!
I can't make any knowledgeable comment because I've never done a repair like this before, But I'm amazed that you get negative comments from people watching, Why do people do this when all I see is a man who is passionate about his work and trying his best, What more can you ask of anyone ?.
Jim: We are all different, and I would not (and could not) change the way I raised my son. If I had done things differently I do not think my boy would the man he is, and of whom I am so proud. But, I am selfishly envious of the relationship you have with yours. I hope you know how blessed you are ( I think you do). Love your vids and keep up the good work.
Good episode. Over 3/4 of a century old now and mostly built boat engines, on and off since I was 16. Raw water cooled flatheads like early Crusaders, etc. get thin from salt water corrosion. They crack easy from interference fits when doing valve seat inserts. Long ago we started using JB Weld and 0.001 fits to set valve seats in old flatheads. Sometimes we'd make it barely a press fit and rough up both sides by shot blasting the faces. JB Weld it in. Good to 500*F and those engines never get that hot. Ocean water is not allowed over 160*F (thermostat) or it'll salt the block. Fresh water, never over 180*F. Yeah you give up some power at lower temps, but any boat running a flathead is not going for power ... Never had one fail yet 😅
Fortunately my neighbor was restoring a 1940 Ford Opera Coupe with a flathead V-8. He had the correct tool to compress the spring. Problem was the assemblys were very stuck. However, we were successful in finally removing them.
@jamsionline about 25 years ago I was at a machine shop trying to save a Packard Straight 8. I think I installed about 600 repair plugs in total, just like the ones you're showing here. It was cracked through the seats like this Mercury, across the deck, inside outside, everywhere. But we couldn't locate a better block, so we pressed on. We also did all 16 seats, 8 sleeves, and used a K-Line sealer on the internal water jacket when we were done. It's still running to this day and has logged TONS of miles including a cross country tour that was over 8,500 miles by itself. Your practices are sound. The only thing we did different way back then, was we peened every plug after we installed it and before we installed the next one. Cheers.
I loved the "your time ain't worth much, because you won't charge for what your time is worth". That's the truest statement ever, I don't think people acknowledge or can comprehend how much experience and knowledge are actually worth. Someone can get the job done cheaper, but that doesn't mean it's fine correctly.
I had no idea pinning a cracked block like that was even a thing. Respect just for the amount of work you put in in the attempt. Can't wait to find out if it worked.
I have done similar repairs with screw in pegs but found they generally failed in service after repeated heat cycles. These days I would grind out the crack and weld it with TIG and silicon bronze then do a sleeve and an inset. My guess is that you might have a 50/50 chance of long term success if as you mentioned the motor does not get overheated. On balance I think the repair you did was as well done as possible and has a good enough chance of success to justify having done it. I would have given a higher chance of long term success if the material between the port and cylinder had been solid rather than having the water jack intersect it. I particularly enjoy watching you deal with problems like this.
I’m not a machinist I’m a backyard mechanic and that is the coolest repair I’ve ever seen. And yes, I would let you build that motor if it was mine!!
I love watching this channel. Pulling the vacuum and adding some anaerobic sealant trying to pull it in was a great idea. I have very little experience with this type of work however, I can’t find fault with sound critical thinking. I hope your customer wants to finish the project and at least find out how it went. 🤓
I’m at 73-year-old retired transmission shop owner I go way back. My uncle and my father used to work on flatheads a lot. I don’t know much about the flatheads other than they had problems with them overheating. I would like to just thank you for what I’m learning from your show. Thank you both.
Guys, I have never done a similar repair to this. I am familiar with stitching. I saw a large lathe that got dropped and the bed broke right off. They fixed it with stitching. But I have done some repairs that also, (THERE WAS NO OTHER WAY). I'd say you have about a 70% chance that it will last. Heat cycles are the problem. Thin cast iron is always a wreck waiting to happen. I noticed some little chunks breaking out while you were drilling. That makes me nervous. I think your logic is sound. Your work was superb. The anerobic sealant did the job. It's just all of those pesky heat/cool cycles that make me nervous. I wish you good fortunes on this project.
I've used those pins many times on repairs and always had excellent success. One time was the head of a 8n tractor with 8-9" crack and still runs today 20 years later. Numerous cracked blocks from froze water and i think you guys did a awesome job!! Cleaning guys a bad mo fo!!
You did everything right Jim, old school pinning, did that plenty of times when I was a fitter & turner back in the 80s. Very similar to what we used to call scotch locks. Thanks for the video boys
I'm an A & P and used to rebuild 4 cyl engines but never machined anything myself. I love watching your videos and the constant banter with each other. In hind sight I would use the anerobic sealer on the threaded plugs to aid in sealing any micro leaks & to essentially glue them in. Another great video.
This should be interesting. My Grandfather had a 1951 suicide 4 door he bought new. He was 95 when he passed and the car had 19k original miles on the odometer.
As you can imagine it was a Sunday go to church and cemetery.
Found out after we finally pulled it out of the garage it wouldn't start.
What a bear it was to get those valve assemblies out.
I am very proud of you as a shop, that actually repairs parts and doesn't just scrap them. Anyone can work with "good" material,,, It takes craftsmanship and skill to "work with what you have got." That makes your shop better, unique, and honestly some place I would send my work to.
Awesome repair guys. Unfortunately in the automotive industry today everything is thrown away and replaced. Real technicians appreciate the effort that you put in. Keep up the good work watching from Victoria Australia
Just remember he said if he had had another good block he was going to scrap this one.
I used to be a mechanic, and I am truly amazed at the quality of the work you guys do. This job in particular looks like such a challenge. Good luck from Australia.
Remember using lock n stitch back in the early 90's. Seems like we always had pretty good luck using them and your repair looks good to me. I recall using a jig to help with spacing/overlap of the screws, think it helped with getting started on your first screw as well. Always had a love hate relationship with the pressure tester! Thanks for videos, keep up the good work!
You can’t use the jig on the odd shape he had. If it was flat and straight you can jig it.
Thank you for the great videos I sure do enjoy them nothing like the Father and son working together keep up the good work guys
A GREAT example of REPAIR, instead of tossing it out.
Hi guys from the UK, I've been a mechanical engineer for 50 years. Most of them in the rebuild industry. Everything I've watched you two do to this engine is the right way to approach this kind of damage. Admittedly, I've never worked on a flathead, but have repaired many a V8 Ford, Jaguar, and Rover SD over the years. Many of which had similar issues. With each one we faced different challenges. Some were successful, others not. But if you dont try to a repair then they all end up in the scrap pile. Great work great show guys. Ex British army REME.
The Cleaning Guy said hold my coffee and watch this... great job buddy. Looks like a solid repair to me.
I admire your craftsmanship, and always feel that my time watching your videos is well spent even if I'll never do that particular repair. Cheers!
there WAS a sleeve coompany with "hi temperature anerobic sealant" just bore strate thru 0 - (+1) , paint bore & sleeve , slide in to flush , let sit and voila .... well i kept getting repots of failures . i put in with lower ledgebore and "0" . sealer did set fast once in . had one H sleeve , went in snug and did set up have way in , with same sealer , just as you said ; tite , LOCKS fast
I've been a Machinist for 45yrs, but my background is mostly Industrial Equipment repairs for Refineries and Chemical Plants. Repairing cast iron is always hit or miss, we had luck and times with welding or brazing and metal stitching worked well at times too. Although I'm not sure how accurate it is, the Company that began the use of metal stitching (Metallock) was from my area. Great work on the repair of the block and I very much enjoy watching your videos.
I'm not a machinist. I'm a carpenter by trade. I was absolutely amazed at the ingenuity. I absolutely love seeing skilled people going outside the box.
This is standard practice in the case that someone wants this done and can pay for it. It's definitely a high skilled job to do, but that's not ingenuity.
I am not an expert, and i am not a hater. I learned something from your videos, and i enjoyed watching them. Thank you for posting. I am looking forward to watching more.
Not related to the repair, but to sealing it... When we used Cometic gaskets on my race motor, it would drip slightly sitting there. Engine builder and I conferred, and we used some KD block sealer in it.... Sealed the motor until we pulled it apart for the next refresh. Could do something like that as a back up plan to make sure it don't leak..
That's my recommendation also
Thoroughly enjoyed your video , going to show it to a 92 y/o in our area who is well versed in these engines as well as model T engines and I’m sure he will be delighted to see how you all have done but also get his feedback! Thanks for a great channel!
I'm enjoying watching you experiment and learn.
My dad had cracked a six cylinder 250 Chevy six cylinder motor due to running straight water in the cooling system. Back in 1974, you could get by in the somer time like that if you were broke and couldn't afford Prestone. When it got cold and froze, the water inside the motor froze and cracked the cylinders. He had a mechanic friend that tore it apart and scratched the cracks out wider. He then put a product in those cracks he called LIQUID STEEL. He sanded and honed the cylinders and valve holes out after leaving each cylinder under a heat lamp for 24 to 48 hours. My dads mechanic then put things back together, crossing his fingers and a preyer. God answered his prayers. My dad drove that truck another 60,000 miles with no engine problems at all. I was in 8th grade then. When my older sister started driving, it was around town and out to where our horses were kept to feed and ride them. Then my sauftmore year i started driving it around. We never had a problem with it. I joined Autoshop in high school for my last three years. My dad finally sold it and bought a truck with a V-8 because my dad was a team roaper and needed a bigger truck to pull a horse trailer and a hay trailer around. The people who bought that old truck never got rid of it. After i graduated from high school, we moved out of the little high desert town of bagdad. My dad never ran another vehicle without some form of coolant again.
Way to go, guys!!
Thanks for watching!
I know yall are a father and son but dad reminds me so much of my grandpa. God i miss that man, i heard stories from him, my dad and uncles on how he fixed things that no one could. He truly was a master st mechanical and machining. He passed when i was 15 and i did my best to soak up every ounce of knowledge i could. He forgot more than i would ever know. Thank yall for these videos!
This is a pretty "common" industrial repair procedure. Using the "Metalock" procedure I've had large (8,000+ HP) main bearing supports repaired after a severe casualty and even though the engine OEM wasn't in favor of the repair it was successful and the vessel is still in service...
I think you did the best possible repair. It's very difficult to find a crack free flathead block. You did an awesome job. Tell your customer to run a new core radiator and run it with the radiator cap to the pressure release position.
That cleaning guy is purity sharp!
Wholesomely genius, you may say.
Steady hands too.
I am truly amazed at your abilities. In the 40 and 50s we had enough flatheads that we just went and got another one. I'm sure that if you get it all together it will work without incident. I also know it will have that great flathead sound. Bless you both for your commitment to such a product and letting us follow along on your progress.
The race engine builder I knew back in the 1970s was a strong proponent of crack repair with Allstate Number 11 alloy. I also used this same alloy on dozens of my own cast iron repairs. As one would normally do, V out the crack area and then heat the entire casting.. once really hot, in the high 300s to low 400s F, wrap all but the work area with heat blanket...use flux and the 11 with oxy-acetylene to fill braise, then full wrap with blanket and let cool slow. Allstate 11 is stronger than common braising alloys and also wets to the base metal better. I personally have not known of an iron repair done with Allstate 11 that failed.. whereas
common alloy repairs have many failure modes.. poor adhesion or stress cracking. These stitch plugs carry a very good reputation. It would be interesting to see this engine disassembled in 20 years after thousands of heat cycles and trillions upon trillions of vibration cycles.
TIG brazing is awesome, no flux, no concerns about burning the iron. The bad thing about brazing it is the large variation in wall thickness and the overall mass of the block, I bet that it wor crack in other places while cooling.
@@carlherrnstein9544 Never saw that problem with Allstate 11 on hot base metal with oxy/acetylene. Back in those days tig was not common.. very expensive. It would be interesting tig 11. I would think you still need oven hot iron.
Hey Guys ,
I started building small gas engines at the age of 8 years old and moved on automotive engines as I got older . By the time I was in my mid teens I built my own engines for my cars and pickups ! I am now 60 years old and watching how you have repaired this engine , and from what I can see you have done everything to a high level of professionalism ! The repairs you have done , I would be surprised if they fail ! Only time will tell ! New technology is something that I fear at times , I have learned that most of these new ways of repairing things are not wrong , they are just different from the way we were trained to do them ! Yes it could have been welded and then sleeved , but that did not always work either ! So stop worrying about if it is wrong or right ! Hey if this works like it looks like it will , all of us Gearheads will have one more tool for our mental tool box !😊
Keep up the great work!!!
sometimes a good PEENING seals small leaks as pins need it in normal work anyway
fluid weld and light heat treat
I’m not a machinist, mechanic or anything like it, but your channel is fascinating. Thank you.
Why wouldn't a sleeve have worked instead of the stitch repair. Funny deal, I watch those videos of those guys from India or Pakistan making emergent repairs to cast iron all the time. What they would have done (and this is no joke) is heat the block up in a fire fueled by dried cow manure, grind away the crack, and then fill everything in with a stick welder. Now I know the Cleaning Guy manages the farm, so he has the cow manure, and that makes this repair automatic.
A sleeve might seal the cylinder wall, but would do nothing for sealing the exhaust port. As for the Pakistani welding on cast iron blocks, we never see what happens when those motors are put back into service. Call me doubtful in the extreme.
@@jacksons1010 I'm suggesting milling out the exhaust port, and inserting a sleeve. I'm with you on those Pakistani repairs, but man they are fun to watch. I watched them weld up an engine head that was broken completely in two, and make a weld repair to the cast front axle of a four wheel drive truck.
@jacksons1010 people claim they weld cast iron with Nickel rods and it works great... they don't tell you about how hard and brittle it gets in the weld area. They tens to crack right next to the weld, and the hardened areas make it nearly impossible to machine... but I'm curious if bronze braising would work. It's plenty strong for this application, low stress, and very machinable. Not sure about the thermal cycling and how it would handle combustion gasses, etc.
@@Only1Shadow Obviously you have never used Nickel to repair cast iron or lack the skills to do it properly.
All while wearing sandals!
When I was 18, did a refresh/rebuild on my 2.5 litre inline 6 from my Triumph TR6.... and there was a giant crack/burn between an intake and exhaust valve in the head (No hardened seats in that thing)... and because I simply didn't know any better... I stitched it with a MIG welder, and ground it back to the correct shape with a dremel and lapped the valves in really well... touch wood, I never had the slightest issue with that engine, so sometimes I guess it's best just to not know what you're not supposed to do.
9:55 Giggity.
🤣🤣🤣
Cameraman's snicker under his breath was gold!
Sir I’m a welder by trade do quite a bit of cast welds. Even welded a patch in a block that had the rod go through it. You did the right thing. I would not have attempted any other type of repair is the materials too thin. I would have sent the customer to a machine shop like yours to stich it up.
Lose the adds they detract from your content.
Wow guys this video was FASCINATING! I would never have thought of fixing a crack this way - bloody ingenious! Of course, I'm not a machinist or mechanic though! I make little wires into tiny wires!
I love how the next repair bolt is screwed in to penetrate & tap into the previous one, & you use the 'anaerobic sealer'on each one, with each snap-off bolt.
Then die grinding the protruding bits off like they were almost never there - so clever Jim!
All the calculations to get the exact amount of interference/compression fit down to all those decimal places? Holy crap youse have to have great equipment, knowledge, machinery & tools to do that!
I finally worked out why youse had all those bolts there holding that laser cut plate onto the block. It wasn't a 'torque plate' that I've seen used before - another ingenious idea! - It was a 'sealer plate' as Jim said at the end. Riiight! - to seal the water jacket so youse could do the pressure test ay! - And the vacuum test!
Very clever also to set up a vacuum lastly, to kinda suck the anaerobic sealer into the very last minute leak that remained! You guys are like scientists!
That was so good to see NO bubbles at the end! Youse dun it! Yeehah!
Now, as for the longevity & reliability of this repair, let's hope the owner tries real hard to never let this donk overheat, for a start!
Ensuring that, let's also hope the sealer is temperature stable, which I guess it's been designed to be so.
The last thing I thought of was the pressure of the coolant that's gonna be on the repair. I thought I saw somewhere that radiator caps are calibrated to about 9 to 12 psi. Then I read in previous comments that the radiator caps in these flat head engines are calibrated to only 4 psi. You tested it at 35 psi, so guys, I humbly reckon that youse have absolutely nailed this! - Given the previous 'restrictions' I mentioned.
I had such fun & learned so much watching this! I can't wait for the next instalment on this engine - if there's gonna be one! - Please?
And of course, as always, I'd love to see this engine installed & running in the vehicle! - A jeep was it? - I forget what you said. THANK YOU for this gift!
If it is the inlet port, then I give it a ten out ten chanve of lasting. If it is the exhaust port then my only concern would be whether the sealer withstands the heat. Mechanically it is a good repair. It is not a high performance engine and therefore the heat cycles will be less but on the other hand, the cooling system is not of the best design. Like all repairs, we take a chance and you gave it the best.
The repair looks good and I think it will last , BUT being a mechanic for 50+years I seen my father in law who was a mechanic and I worked for him for almost 9 years I seen him weld cracks in blocks and cylinder heads with a stick rod welded and those engines ran good and he Guarantee them on old Continental, Hercules, and diesel engines ! We also welded broken water pumps and other cast iron parts ! Back in 1960-1970 , thanks your videos are great !
I have repaired over 100 of those engine blocks that was a very common problem. It was caused by two things. Casting core shift and over heating the cooling system . The only thing that I was taught is plug all the way through the into the water jacket so that the plug can put pressure on the area so it does not open up when the block heats up. Of corse we know have to stop the crack with the first pin inserted past the end of the crack. The rest is perfect and installing the sleeve with on size bore and sleeve ( because the factory steel sleeves were installed that way). Those sleeves were bored and honed to piston size and could be bough as a set piston and sleeve together. Smart move to use a flange sleeve so the gasket and head will hold in should it try to move. Also I have a trick to help with upper end oil control. Since you are upgrading the valve train with late model keeper type valves you can cut the spring end of the solid guide for a .500 Id 11/32 nylon valve seal that way no oil can be sucked up the valve stem. That is providing the inner spring diameter will allow the seal to fit. Also adjustable lifters are a god send if this engine will be driver a lot. My suggestion is that you grind the end of the adjuster bolt flat you can use the butt grinder on your valve machine. I have several up dates to make the old ford model “A” engines Highway compatible over 60 mph and live.
I’m no machinist, just an old backyard mechanic in my younger years. Great job as far as I can see. Learning anything costs something, no matter where or what you do. Thanks for the chance to see you both work on this engine repair 👍😎 Fascinating! 😎👍
I’ve never done this , but things similar .
I think you did an EXCELLENT job and definitely have faith in it !
With my dad back in the 60's to mid 80's we did Merc Flathead s, Lincoln V12 flatties and one or two early 50's ford sixes. Coolant system was 2 to 4 psi max you repair will last. If you want belt and suspenders use Irontite CRS-16 Ceramic Seal or Moroso Part # 35500 Ceramic seal , We used it on the Lincoln V12s with zero issues and doing the ceramic seal one the run in stand will cause no issues with the radiator ir header core.
Hey just wanted to say I love these videos especially this one on the old MERC flathead 8. It is so great seeing these methods to fix the crack and install the new sleeve and seat. I think any customer would be proud to have you two work on their stuff. Keep up the GREAT work and please know that WE ALL really enjoy these vids!!! 🙂