When I was young and showing horses in California, the temps would be upwards of 110*f and just miserable. One judge was really committed to formal attire and required full coats, stock ties and velvet helmets. I had a second hand vintage wool hunt coat with fine cotton lining and I whined all morning about having to wear it later...and was shocked when I actually felt cooler in the heavy weight wool than I did in my short sleeved cotton rat catcher. After that, I always wore it. I don’t handle heat well and that dang coat saved my bacon from burning to a crisp 🤣
I usually wear wool socks in summer, and they keep me pretty cool. However they get really itchy when wet, so I have to make sure the weather is dry out. Some fabrics are really surprising. Although for casual clothes, I prefer to use lightweight cotton in summer.
It’s like the wool boot socks issued by the Army. I serious when I say they were cooler and reduced the heat of friction, wicked moisture, didn’t smell as quick. I didn’t appreciate them until I bought cotton ones that were soggy and stinky!
@@soapibubblesthestrange9972 thank you! I've been doing campaigner American Civil War and Spanish Civil War reenacting for a while now, so it seemed like a logical leap.
For people looking for drafting paper on a smaller scale, a lot of gift wraps these days have 1 inch grids printed on the opposite sides now. So, after Christmas mark downs can come in handy for your drafting needs too.
She’s like your favourite kindergarten teacher, that always spoke softly and had all the patience for you as you struggled to glue macaroni to paper 😍 absolute perfection
Your videos are so pleasant, your voice, the aesthetics, the visuals and voiceovers. This is a useful, clear, comprehensive, and excellently presented resource. I've read tailoring books that don't explain these fabrics and tools. Thank you!
Your iron on interfacing roast is so accurate, it failed miserably when I tried it, following directions and everything. I hate how all modern patterns call for it. I am going to try one of these next time!
What a great resource RUclips has become. Books are wonderful, but there’s a whole other dimension that can only be experienced through demonstration and instruction - short of in person learning through schools and workshops, video is the next best thing. Thank you for doing this. In a future installment could you talk about irons, boards, specialty shaped boards, needle/velvet boards, hams, steamers...and then there’s the matter of needles; hand and machine - their uses, fabric matches and how to find good ones?
I had to chuckle when you were describing Tailor Tape and its application, as well as Petersham. Both of these can be extremely useful, especially if you're recreating the lofted and softly turned lapels which were the rage in the Edwardian Era for Chesterfield Coats. Both tapes, as well as loads of steam, become your best friend here! Thanks for a very fun and informative presentation! I almost forgot, so here's my edited portion: You mention "patterning paper," which is its own Pandora's Box of Tailoring Trauma. Over the years, regardless of what kind of project I'm working on, I've discovered two papers which are pretty amazing. The first is "floor paper," a kind of mid-weight kraft paper, which you can purchase by the roll at any (and I mean ANY!) paint store. It's really wide, you get a couple years' worth in length, and it's not horribly expensive. The other variety is a (very heavy) roll of wide printer paper; this can be purchases at Office Depot or other places and is used for production plotter printers. It's strong and lightweight (once you've pulled it off the roll!) and you can get it in widths up to 185 cm (about 72 inches). If you keep/archive your patterns, the floor paper is marvelous. One or two layers of any tape near any edge on both sides of each pattern piece, then punch a hole and you can keep the entire pattern hung on a pattern hook.
My husbands Tailored trousers had a velvet waist bands, with the fibres directed towards the feet. It keeps his shirts tucked in, neat and tidy at all times.
Contrary to what a lot of Etsy sellers think Grosgrain ribbon is Not the same as Petersham. Grosgrain is woven as a sheet of fabric and cut into ribbons so it has cut edges. Petersham is narrow woven as a single ribbon and has a woven edge that doesn't unravel. A difference in weave causes the signature stripes and results in a zig zag edge that Petersham always has. Vintage Grosgrain ribbon always has a straight edge that can unravel. Vintage Petersham is usually made of silk, cotton or rayon. Modern grosgrain is usually polyester or a poly blend so that the edges can be heat bonded. Sometimes poly grosgrain is given a bonded zigzag edge to mimic Petersham. If you're looking at Petersham online that has a zigzag edge and poly content it's more than likely that it's really grosgrain with a cut and bonded edge.
I am a professional knitting instructor. I also have a spinning wheel for making my own yarn. To make worsted yarn, you comb wool fibers so they are all parallel, and then you spin them to keep that parallel structure.That makes it so that when they are spun, the ends of the fibers do not stick out. When worsted yarns are woven, the fabric can even be shiny if the fibers are long enough and fine threads woven tightly enough. It also depends on which type of wool you start with (because each breed and even each animal within the breed will have a different texture, length and micron thickness), just as humans have different types of hair. Just as comparison, fuzzy wool yarns, especially the kind we think of for hunting socks or old-school wool sweaters, the fibers are carded rather than combed. Carding to start with makes the resulting products fluffier and lighter weight. It is spun to keep the loft, which is called woolen spun. Blankets would be made of woolen yarn.
So to make worsted yarns do you need a specific kind of roving? I’ve dabbled in spinning with a drop spindle on and off so I only know a little about it
@@lunarshadow7712 True worsted requires combed top, not roving. If you are prepping from scratch, you would use the heavy, evil looking wool combs with 4 to 5 rows of teeth. If you are buying pre-prepped fibers, you are looking for something labeled specifically "top" vs "roving". If you see them side by side you will really see those differences. Much of the commercial preparations of merino, for example, are combed top, so if you are buying dyed top that is what you are getting. Try getting some roving or batts from a small farm to compare. When you buy from a small farm that is selling from their own sheep it is usually carded roving (at least in the USA), because most small wool mills they use for small runs of fiber offer that. On occasion they will offer pin-drafted top/roving (which is somewhere between roving and top), and very rarely, combed top. The loftiest yarns come out of equally fluffy carded batts, the smoothest yarns out of top. Your fiber handling technique while spinning plays a part too, but if you start trying different breeds and different fiber preps, even handling the fiber the exact same way you will see immediate difference.
Dangit, I so wish I had this video 2 days ago when I blindly ordered some random horsehair canvas for my Hamilton spencer! It sounds like I need to have a bit of a re-think about how I'm going to approach my interfacing materials. At least the stuff I ordered won't go to waste, but it sounds like I need to come up with a better plan for other materials to use along with it.
Canadian resource for tailoring supplies - Darrell Thomas Textiles (Almont, Ontario). Fantastic store and they're even having a sale right now on deadstock designer fabric. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
@@susanrobertson984 DT sells the Gutterman silk. But it's the regular weight, not the silk twist. Last time I was in the store (before he relocated) he had polyester buttonhole twist. But if enough of ask for silk twist...
@@susanrobertson984 Who's your BC supplier? Say it loud and say it proud. Because independent fabric and haberdashery suppliers are in danger of dropping like the proverbial flies... now's the time to show our support. - C.
@@stevezytveld6585 it is called Cindy’s Threadworks. I ordered once in early December because she has Superior threads from the US not in stock but she orders them. She got in touch early Jan to say her regular suppliers didn’t have what I wanted and she was trying some others. I should get the thread this week. So if you are not in a hurry ... which I was not!! The regular Gutterman silk thread is available lots of places including Fabricland. But everyone keeps running out of dark grey!!
Sweet! Just what I needed. You always provide such excellent topics. 😊 This was amazing. Terms are often the largest barrier to entry when it comes to locating supplies. Thank you soooo much!
The subtitles sometimes give me such a chuckle 🤭: “but we’re going to specifically focus in on wolves because that tends to be the most typical type of tailoring fabric [...]” 15:58
This was amazing! It also made me wonder about caring for and cleaning the garments. I'm sure just chucking things in the washing machine is probably not a good idea but where to begin?
You really shouldn’t be wet washing a heavily tailored garment. They’re simply not designed for it, and the fabrics generally don’t wet wash well and frankly a tailored garment shouldn’t need washing. They’re not generally in contact with bare skin, If they get muddy, let it dry and brush it off and any spills should be spot cleaned. To generally refresh, spray with alcohol and let air dry.
ahh thank you so much for this!!! i’m very new to like, heavy craftsmanship (most of my sewing projects have been simple skirts and shirts or like, cosplay pieces), so i’m always interested in the more heavy duty learning outside of just what i pick up from videos 💕 i hope if you don’t already have plans for it that you’ll maybe do a follow up video about upkeep and whatnot for modern made tailored clothing (storage, cleaning, etc) bc ive seen some on historical pieces, but im never sure about what of these fabrics is ok to fold/wash/hang/etc haha;;
U so amazing!! (sew amazing?) I genuinely love how you are doing the opposite of tailors back in the day protecting the trade secrets. Thank you for being the opposite of "finish in the usual fashion."
i never put a video in my costuming save for later list so fast as i did this one. Gosh golly I needed this just as a way to get my ducks in a row ( been watching my ducks wander lazily around for about six months now) . All my supplies are specific to quilting and I have been needing to get more organized, this list is going to be so helpful- I know i will be returning to it many times in the near future . Thank you so much.
It's so good to have all this information in the same place, now I need to translate some of the terms and hope I find the correct translation because it is not allways easy in sewing and embroidery.
THANK YOU! I do confess it's starting to feel as though you're reading my mind - exactly when a question in my head becomes urgent, out comes your next video answering it ;-) Additional sources in Europe would be greatly appreciated as they surface! (Trying to reduce the shipping footprint of the materials I acquire as much as possible.)
When it comes to wools, I've had decent luck with a couple of UK suppliers; Croft Mill and Fabworks. I'm not sure about mainland continent suppliers, sadly, but good luck finding what you need! :)
@@wiggle_duck9063 Thank you, and indeed! Alas, Brexit has made it hardly less expensive and time-consuming to order from the UK as from the US (though at least the shipping distance is less, of course). The Historical Fabric Store in Sweden (which Nicole Rudolph links!) is fabulous for wools and broadcloths and linen canvas and such! But I've not been able to find any suppliers of 18thC button moulds on the mainland at all....
That's the video I needed a year ago or so. Now I only need another one that translates all the terms into German, because the staff at fabric shops usually have no clue what [insert historical sewing related English term here] is.
I am so thrilled! It is super hard to find decent historical fabrics where I live. Especially wool's are always a blend, or felt. Its nearly impossible to find something without synthetics in it! Now I have two more shops to browse trough. Thank you!
Honestly, the process of getting sleeves in by machine is such a punishment for being alive, I'm very tempted to do it by hand now. Goodness, it might even be faster.
Oh finally an explanation on the differences between petersham and other ribbon that I can understand! A note from a spinner re; superfine wool and worsted wool- (wow this got long) superfine in spinning relates to the "softness" of the wool, the microns of the individual hairs that make up the wool! The smaller the number the softer the wool. a typical merino wool is in the mid 20s. Worsted refers to how you prepare the wool to spin it. The other way you can spin is "woolen" (traditionally/historically these are the two styles of spinning- modern spinners are getting creative and making more). Worsted spinning is spun with the wool hairs in a row, lined up all facing the same direction with the goal of being smooth and having the fuzzy halo of fiber that you see when you hold a thread up to the light as unpronounced as possible. Woolen spun thread is spun from what is called a "rolag" think a metal spring but made of unspun wool. The goal in woolen spinning is to trap as much air as possible, making a fuzzier, warmer thread. There is also a difference in the strength of each thread, and the amount of stretch, but I think the most important here is the fuzzy halo that you get with woolen spun verses the less fuzzy worsted.
This is amazing! Thank you for putting together such a comprehensive resource for tailoring. There were a few items I knew the names of, but had never seen examples, and a few more I had never heard of. Seeing examples of each item, while discussing usage was incredibly helpful, and I don’t think I’ve ever seen a video quite like this, before. Thank you, again, and have a wonderful, joyous week.
Thank you so much for this, Nicole! I've been wanting something like this for a while now. Also, now I have to go and unpick some handstitching and acquire tailors tape, because...yeah. (swearing so much in my head rn). I really appreciate the additional knowledge of materials! I will be referencing this video so much as I learn how to tailor things properly! You're a gem!
I've been using up the cotton threads that came with my grandmother's old sewing box for tacking/basting; the nice quality Sylko Three Shells twist... as I found out the hard way that as it is probably over 50 years old (judging by the dates of some of the other items in the box), it doesn't have the strength not to give way in structural hand-sewing! Also a nice rememberance of her.
Vintage threads are something I'd love to collect, like Noelle does, but I'd never use them - as much as it's not historical, I stick to modern polyester threads for everything so far. If I worked larger visible stitches into some garments I'd probably buy silk, but otherwise polyester does the job quite well when it comes to wearable historybounding/vintage-style/modern clothes and has the added bonus of working very well for both machine and hand-sewing.
Thank you for all this wonderful knowledge! I went to fashion college but we only ever learned the basics and fast-fashion techniques. If you ever choose to teach a course I want to take it 💗
Such a lovely video. Especially love the little 'cards'/title screens. The fond and little border look absolutely lovely. The historic touch on all the parts that go into tailoring is super nice, and not something you often find when looking for tutorials. I love to listen to your videos. However, as I am sadly a noob at anything sewing related, though very interested in tailoring, I do notice that there are plenty of times that I can't totally follow what is going on. (Not a problem, I just need to learn more still.) However, I managed to understand and follow everything in this video. Kudos on the noob friendliness :D Also all the suits and tailored pieces you own are incredible, such a fantastic job. They are all so district in style from each other too.
Thank you thank you thank you. I went to buy my first order of 'nice thread' for my historical sewing and just froze because I didn't have a clue as to what was what. Or what weights were good for what. I just ended up closing my web browser to think about it another day. So thank you so much for this needed video. 🥰❤🧡💛💚💙💜🥰
I have paused 3 minutes in so I will edit my comment if you answer my question - but I have ADHD and don't want to forget my question! I have been slowly trying to move my whole lifestyle to more "natural" and or sustainable or traditional things (like we don't use paper napkins, tissues, or towels at my house, I use face scrubbies that I made from old towels and flannel, I upcycled my kids' cloth diapers into new things as well). This isn't necessarily values driven...I have a roll of paper towels in my car for emergencies and checking my oil, for example. I just find it's cheaper to wash a load of cloth towels, napkins, and handkerchiefs every week over buying them. But I also like the idea that things like cotton and wool will eventually break down in the environment (even though most paper does, too). Would the buckram be able to replace modern interfacing for projects like the handles of shopping bags or a wallet, and that kind of thing b/c even though I keep it for a while I still wish I had a less...artificial(?) interfacing than the iron-on stuff. I worry the adhesives and polyester aren't good long term for decomposing later. Most people keep their wallets and bags for a while, but they do still wear out. If I can cannibalize the zippers and D-rings I'll do that but when I toss the old pieces into the trash I know that interface will stick around.
Yeah! That'd be a great use of canvas. There are other types of interfacing that might do well that are cotton based, too (and cheaper). I'd recommend checking out the etsy shop I link a bunch in my description (or any tailoring site) and there will be loads of options. You may also end up wanting a tape instead of a fabric, so you could fold the fabric over it so it's not bulky in the seam allowance.
Best UK tailoring places - Kenton Trimmings, The Lining Company (aka Bernstein and Banley), MacCulloch & Wallis, Vena Cava Design have also recently started doing tailoring stuff too but I get corset stuff from them! Abraham Moon for Wool!
Thank you for making this video. I am currently committing to making for myself Richard Sharps' (Sean Bean) officer jacket from "Sharps' Rifle's", and a cloak (Bernadette Banner red cloak) to wear over top of it in the winter time. To be donene in Prussian Blue with white wool embroidery and braids with mother of pearl buttons for my grandmother's collection. And on the back of the jacket where the braiding does the loop de loop I am going to do the Tree of Gondor. And Elvis writing and little flowers along the Hem of both the jacket and cloak. The lining is a separate project entirely, so I'm going to do a temporary lining and then work on my tapestry embroidered lining as I enjoy tapestry embroidery, I plan to wear this coat for the rest of my life, so I might as well take my time on it like my grandmother and her grandmother did.
Thank you so much for this wonderfully detailed and informative video! It also happens to be perfectly timed for me - I'm struggling with the collar and lapel of a 1939 dress pattern. After watching this, I learned that I need to do some shopping to get the right materials to properly finish it.
THIS IS AMAZING. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and making tailoring a *bit* less scary. Are there any interfacings or canvases (canvasi?) that are safe to machine wash? My understanding is that many of the stabilizers are water-based?
This has been an amazing video! I have 2 lingering interrogations though: 1. I read that it's better for the thread to be weaker than the fabric, so that if there's tension, or over the the long run, it's the thread that gives away first instead of it sawing through and ripping the fabric. What's your take on this? 2. I don't understand the idea behind handstitching sleeves in for more stretch, if it's done with the stiff and sturdy backstitch. Can you explain this in a little more detail please?
A backstitch still has some stretch to it, about as much as a plain weave wool on the straight grain. A lock stitch has zero stretch or give to it at all, beucase of how it’s formed.
Love your content! Love that you are teaching and learning history at the same time :) Have been sewing since I was very young also! Have the dress my grandmother recreated for the bicentennial and a scrap of fabric from a dress worn at George Washington's Inauguration. I look for either content or great voices. See Audrey Coyne's Opera Singer TRICKS to Have a MORE Attractive Voice. also Fairyland Cottage channel.
Does anyone know where else to buy linen canvas? I need some light colored linen canvas, but it’s out of stock at the Etsy link in the description. When I messaged the Etsy shop they said they would not be able to restock because the supplier went out of business due to COVID.
If anyone in Britian is looking for good online wool supplier - check out Hainsworth. Hainsworth cloth is used for dress military uniforms. Not cheap but good quality.
I'm wondering how a light wool lining on a summer weight raincoat would be. Perhaps with a nylon shell. For those times when it's damp and you want a jacket, but it's warm enough that wearing one makes you sweat
What is the difference between linen canvas and just a heavy plain weave linen, if any? And can i use the heavy linen as substitution in a pinch? Thank you for sharing you knowledge so freely and for a beautiful video!
✈✂️ Double check your airport's specific policy on craft items. Just had my thread snips (1 inch blade) confiscated during a gate check before leaving Greece. Airport policy was different than the airline policy.
Gosh, I love your channel, I learn so much. I count myself fairly experienced at sewing but I learn an amazing amount. Your channel just has this element of something that others don’t
Here I am back, I paid a lot attention to the thread that you mentioned, when I said I am back is because I went to Google to ask what is a chain stitching machine and sawba few videos and also for hand sewing the sleeve. So relax listening to you while I am stretching even though I know I am not into making pieces of clothes so complicated. Is good to know to learn new words.
Your videos are so informative and engaging! So glad I found you via Abby, I'm so jealous of both of you having a sewing human as a neighbour and friend!
Thank you so much! This was very insightful!! I personaly looove tropical weight wools.....for circle skirts! So chic and twirly, and it does not create frixion with cotton tights.
Thanks for all this good info! The fabric store I usually deal with and its online counterpart don't seem to have anything that's pure wool, they mostly seem to be polyester blends, so if and when I decide it's time to make something out of wool, I'll have to do some hunting. And I will probably come back to this video to remember the words I need for what I want :) Unfortunately for lefthanders, options are pretty limited when it comes to scissors and shears. I'm glad I've got two good pairs of lefty shears now, although I discovered with the new pair that the old pair was hinged righty. *mind blown* I might actually be able to cut a straight line now that I don't have to look over the far side of my scissors to see my line...
Thanks for all the useful information. Now I have to find an online shop for those things here in Europe. I just started to make my own clothes (that are not knit) and still need to find the right materials near me. And as a crafter spinning her own yarn I have to add a little more. The most important difference between worsted and woolen spun wool is actually in the fiber preparation. (The way it is spun makes a difference as well, but is of less importance in the effect it has) For worsted spun wool yarn the fibers are combed to 1) remove shorter fibers from it 2) so that all fibers are parallel to each other Both contribute to the much smoother quality of such yarns even before a lot of twist is put in. Woolen spun wool yarn is made from fiber long and short, laying every which way, and often spun in a looser manner. This contributes to a more rough appearance, as those shorter fibers and different angled longer ones stick out to the sides, and to those yarns being warmer. More air is trapped after all. There are quite a lot of videos here on youtube showing the differences and how it's done in handspinning (both with spindle and a wheel)
Thank you! So much to learn and to have all this in one place, the best. I wish I could give it TWO thumbs up!👍 👍 how could anyone give this a thumbs down? 😳🙄
Thank you so much for simplifying the tailoring supplies. I'm new to tailoring and just really getting started in historical clothing. I am entirely self taught with only youtube tutorials and various books to show me the way. Needless to say seeing all the different components that actually go into tailoring cam be a bit daunting. This was a very practical tools of the trade video. It makes it way less confusing as to what I will need. If you ever care to share your knowledge of tailor and make a tutorial, that would be beyond awesome. ❤
i tried using tape along a neckline and it’s left a weird indent in the profile of my silhouette and now my neckline is slightly funky. always more to learn!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I am getting back into sewing and pattern drafting after a hiatus of 40 years and this video, dear Nicole, has saved me so much time and money that would have been wasted on so many unnecessary items. You speak with so much clarity and wisdom...I cannot thank you enough...
Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge! I’ve watched and rewatched this video a couple of times while I’m in my own sewing room. If you ever teach an online tailoring class please let us in the RUclips world hear about it.
You are a wealth of knowledge would love for you to do some basic tutorials on the stitches and starting to make some basic items so people like me can get started and be confident when moving on the more complicated garments. Thank you for these videos I am sure this video will be used as a reference many times over. I will be saving this for sure. Cheers Tricia.
TBH I don't know if I'm ever going to attempt tailoring myself, but now I will be more able to follow along with people who are, and know what they're talking about!
Yup, that pretty much covers it. By the way, if you type in Tailor's Tape (on Amazon), you will get a metric ton of measuring tapes, so you'll have to wade through that.
Oh my word!!!!! So many questions answered! You are truly the most amazing knowledgeable go to source ever! Seriously thank you Nichole for sharing the wonderfulness of you and your vast knowledge and experience. I truly appreciate you.
I am a dress maker but really want to get more in to tailoring so this video is gold! Really hoping you can do a book recommendation video, not just about historical sewing but general tailoring🤞🤞I really love your skills and want to learn them to so I have some serious studying and practicing to do💪💪
😅 when you said broadcloth I immediately thought poly-cotton and was happy for a fraction of a second until I realised you meant wool. (Poly-cotton broadcloth is $4 a metre where I am, and about all I can afford for making any garment beyond the size of a facemask😅 everything else, on what you would likely consider the cheap end is around $20 a metre for cotton, nevermind any of the fancy fabrics😢)
@@CraftQueenJr it is. Sadly. They even brought up prices. Though thankfully only 50 cents extra for the poly-cotton broadcloth. The other cotton I mentioned was quilters cotton, they tell me, the printed stuff. But I recently found they have 100% cotton broadcloth, but that's around $7 per metre. (Though that may have been bumped to $8 with the price change.) I live rural and I think that's the reasoning for the high prices. More gas money from the supplier to ship it or whatever. 🤷
I've been longing for a video like this for so long, and finally it's here! Thank you so much. I was wondering forever if horsehair canvas was really the only interfacing option for historical garments.
What a great video. I have been doing - or trying to do some amateur tailoring for over 20 years and had almost given up. Finding fabrics, and all these supplies here in New Zealand is now next to impossible. So thanks for the links. I am interested in 1910s, 1920s and very early 1930s era menswear. I have a number of vintage tailoring books and have had several suits and pairs of trousers made by local tailors here in NZ with largely unsatisfactory results due to the tailors not really being interested in any styles older than they are personally. I have some questions.. The most common fabric mentioned both by present day tailors here and in my mostly British books (from the eras of which I'm interested in) is flannel. I realise what we call flannelette and winceyette here in NZ is often called flannel in the US and as a result online most references to flannel refer to this fabric. The flannel my suits and trousers are made from is quite a different fabric to what we call flannelette. What we call flannel here is a light to medium weight wool fabric which resembles the tweed in your video. We also talk of tweed, but it tends to be heavier and often in brown and green colours suited to country living and hunting. Very few of the surviving fabric shops here now sell either tweed or flannel (as we call it, both flannelette and winceyette are still readily available). I have tried searching online and found little to explain this difference of terminology. Do you know what these types of flannels are and if so are you able to please explain as I have often found it confusing? My other questions relates to a couple fabrics which I have had trouble finding. Firstly is one called called Silesia. It seems to be the go to fabric for almost all linings and a lot of other things in my vintage books. Do you know what this is and can you recommend a place to get it? The other fabric is Cambric. Until about 1932/33 when Pique (aka Marcella) fabric started being used for men's white tie waistcoats a type of high grade flat weave Cambric was commonly used from the late nineteenth century onwards, becoming more fashionable in the 1910s. Most people today, if they ever get the chance to wear white tie to an event, wear the pique fabric 1930s style waistcoats and some sources even claim that the pique fabric was used in the 1910s and 20s although I have found no evidence to support this - only plenty to show how the new style was introduced in the early 1930s. It is possible to find an handkerchief grade Cambric, but my research leads me to believe this is of a much lighter weight than the fabric used in early 20th centuries for evening waistcoats. Do you have any idea if such a fabric is being made anywhere today? All research I have done leads me to think it is not, but you seem to have found plenty of things that I have spent years searching for, so maybe you (or others) may know. And finally, it's so great to see all these different types of linen canvasses are still available. My old books mention various types, but I have always struggled to find anything vintage appropriate other than hair canvas. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and experience.
I've been trying to sort out the same things. From what I've read, 1) Cambric could have come in different weights (even though I don't have any info on waistcoats), 2) the term Pique is used for a very different fabric now than it was in the past; 3) "flannel" found in a regular US fabric store is what you call "flannelette" - a cotton fabric with nap on both sides used for pajamas and such. Traditional worsted suiting flannel is only available through specialist tailoring suppliers, like B.Black&Sons. The practice of using the same name for very different materials is annoying, isn't it? I suggest looking up a late 19th - early 20th C books (before 1920s) with names along the lines of: 'History of Cotton Manufacture' or '(Reports on the ) State of the Textile Industry' or something similar- there were several published at the turn of that century, and I think that's where I've seen that info, sorry, can't remember the exact title off the top of my head. Another good source would be the oldest Textile Dictionary you can find - they go back a couple of centuries.
Do you have any interfacing suggestions for people who, for religious reasons, can't combine wool and linen in one garment, but still want a nice wool suit?
Yay someone with my problem! I think you can get cottons in similar weaves 🤷♀️ Apparently, that's what tailors swap the linen out with when you get something checked for shatnez.
Thank you for making this! I've been doing historical costume for ages, but I'm new to 19thC stuff (which is weird, since it's always been my one true love, but I got distracted by the SCA :P ), and this is the best video of its kind that I've seen. I don't feel silly for not having known much of this stuff before, but it could so easily have happened that way, haha. Your channel is great, keep going!
First time here.. Thank you. I enjoyed this very much and it was very educational. You are adorable and remind me of a mellow Rachael Maddow like her baby sister if she had one😊. Your facial expressions are kind and welcoming.
Fantastic as always! Super interesting and amazingly helpful links! And if any UK sewists know a Kinkame equivalent thread that would be awesome. Ive found YLI thread, similar? 🤷♀️ but Kinkame is nowhere to be found in the UK it seems.
I set my sleeves in for my jacket a bit too soon so to see, as I machine stitched them XD but my future garments will be getting handsewn sleeves! Also I’m very curious about what makes a wool better suited for summer, I thought it was thickness but I might have to look it up
The English language is so confusing sometimes... Buckram. Well, is it a buck, or a ram?? And what does a male deer and a male sheep have to do with fabric?? Anyway, very informative video!
When I was young and showing horses in California, the temps would be upwards of 110*f and just miserable. One judge was really committed to formal attire and required full coats, stock ties and velvet helmets. I had a second hand vintage wool hunt coat with fine cotton lining and I whined all morning about having to wear it later...and was shocked when I actually felt cooler in the heavy weight wool than I did in my short sleeved cotton rat catcher. After that, I always wore it. I don’t handle heat well and that dang coat saved my bacon from burning to a crisp 🤣
I had an old Melton wool long coat that I wore during blistering heat summers in Australia for exactly the same reason...it kept me cool...
I usually wear wool socks in summer, and they keep me pretty cool. However they get really itchy when wet, so I have to make sure the weather is dry out. Some fabrics are really surprising. Although for casual clothes, I prefer to use lightweight cotton in summer.
It’s like the wool boot socks issued by the Army. I serious when I say they were cooler and reduced the heat of friction, wicked moisture, didn’t smell as quick. I didn’t appreciate them until I bought cotton ones that were soggy and stinky!
you thought he was being a hardass, turned out he was looking out for you lol
As a guy who's just seriously getting into historical sewing, this video is an absolute gem of a resource. Thank you so much!
SAME (well, I’m not a guy, but yay for more guys doing historical sewing!)
I love how much I learn from Nicole!
More guys into sewing, yes please!
IWW profile pic and into historical sewing? You seem dope as heck dude!
@@soapibubblesthestrange9972 thank you! I've been doing campaigner American Civil War and Spanish Civil War reenacting for a while now, so it seemed like a logical leap.
Same here, and a guy too! I wish I had all these infos when I started a year ago (waistcoat without interfacing=>problematic)
If you ever have an online tailoring course, I’d love attend! Your content is so educational!
I also would enjoy that
Me to
Agreed!
Yes!
Agreed!
For people looking for drafting paper on a smaller scale, a lot of gift wraps these days have 1 inch grids printed on the opposite sides now. So, after Christmas mark downs can come in handy for your drafting needs too.
That is a great tip! Thanks so much!
I read or heard somewhere that gift wrapping is generally not recyclable. Just something to keep in mind is possible.
Yes! I love using wrapping paper heheh
She’s like your favourite kindergarten teacher, that always spoke softly and had all the patience for you as you struggled to glue macaroni to paper 😍 absolute perfection
Your videos are so pleasant, your voice, the aesthetics, the visuals and voiceovers. This is a useful, clear, comprehensive, and excellently presented resource. I've read tailoring books that don't explain these fabrics and tools. Thank you!
Exactley right!
Your iron on interfacing roast is so accurate, it failed miserably when I tried it, following directions and everything. I hate how all modern patterns call for it. I am going to try one of these next time!
I'm thinking of switching over to sewn interfacings - I use a better quality iron on interfacing and often it's still hard to get it to stick.
What a great resource RUclips has become. Books are wonderful, but there’s a whole other dimension that can only be experienced through demonstration and instruction - short of in person learning through schools and workshops, video is the next best thing. Thank you for doing this.
In a future installment could you talk about irons, boards, specialty shaped boards, needle/velvet boards, hams, steamers...and then there’s the matter of needles; hand and machine - their uses, fabric matches and how to find good ones?
I had to chuckle when you were describing Tailor Tape and its application, as well as Petersham. Both of these can be extremely useful, especially if you're recreating the lofted and softly turned lapels which were the rage in the Edwardian Era for Chesterfield Coats. Both tapes, as well as loads of steam, become your best friend here! Thanks for a very fun and informative presentation!
I almost forgot, so here's my edited portion: You mention "patterning paper," which is its own Pandora's Box of Tailoring Trauma. Over the years, regardless of what kind of project I'm working on, I've discovered two papers which are pretty amazing. The first is "floor paper," a kind of mid-weight kraft paper, which you can purchase by the roll at any (and I mean ANY!) paint store. It's really wide, you get a couple years' worth in length, and it's not horribly expensive. The other variety is a (very heavy) roll of wide printer paper; this can be purchases at Office Depot or other places and is used for production plotter printers. It's strong and lightweight (once you've pulled it off the roll!) and you can get it in widths up to 185 cm (about 72 inches).
If you keep/archive your patterns, the floor paper is marvelous. One or two layers of any tape near any edge on both sides of each pattern piece, then punch a hole and you can keep the entire pattern hung on a pattern hook.
Bless You! And thank you for showing us where you can get the papers!
Bless you, this is a fantastic resource and I haven't found anyone else trying to be so quick-but-comprehensive.
My husbands Tailored trousers had a velvet waist bands, with the fibres directed towards the feet. It keeps his shirts tucked in, neat and tidy at all times.
Contrary to what a lot of Etsy sellers think Grosgrain ribbon is Not the same as Petersham. Grosgrain is woven as a sheet of fabric and cut into ribbons so it has cut edges. Petersham is narrow woven as a single ribbon and has a woven edge that doesn't unravel. A difference in weave causes the signature stripes and results in a zig zag edge that Petersham always has. Vintage Grosgrain ribbon always has a straight edge that can unravel. Vintage Petersham is usually made of silk, cotton or rayon. Modern grosgrain is usually polyester or a poly blend so that the edges can be heat bonded. Sometimes poly grosgrain is given a bonded zigzag edge to mimic Petersham. If you're looking at Petersham online that has a zigzag edge and poly content it's more than likely that it's really grosgrain with a cut and bonded edge.
I am a professional knitting instructor. I also have a spinning wheel for making my own yarn.
To make worsted yarn, you comb wool fibers so they are all parallel, and then you spin them to keep that parallel structure.That makes it so that when they are spun, the ends of the fibers do not stick out. When worsted yarns are woven, the fabric can even be shiny if the fibers are long enough and fine threads woven tightly enough. It also depends on which type of wool you start with (because each breed and even each animal within the breed will have a different texture, length and micron thickness), just as humans have different types of hair.
Just as comparison, fuzzy wool yarns, especially the kind we think of for hunting socks or old-school wool sweaters, the fibers are carded rather than combed. Carding to start with makes the resulting products fluffier and lighter weight. It is spun to keep the loft, which is called woolen spun. Blankets would be made of woolen yarn.
This is awesome, thank you for sharing 🤗
I now finally know what it means for a wool to be 'worsted'
So to make worsted yarns do you need a specific kind of roving? I’ve dabbled in spinning with a drop spindle on and off so I only know a little about it
I now know of the existence of a garment called "hunting socks." Thanks for sharing :)
@@lunarshadow7712 True worsted requires combed top, not roving. If you are prepping from scratch, you would use the heavy, evil looking wool combs with 4 to 5 rows of teeth. If you are buying pre-prepped fibers, you are looking for something labeled specifically "top" vs "roving". If you see them side by side you will really see those differences. Much of the commercial preparations of merino, for example, are combed top, so if you are buying dyed top that is what you are getting. Try getting some roving or batts from a small farm to compare. When you buy from a small farm that is selling from their own sheep it is usually carded roving (at least in the USA), because most small wool mills they use for small runs of fiber offer that. On occasion they will offer pin-drafted top/roving (which is somewhere between roving and top), and very rarely, combed top. The loftiest yarns come out of equally fluffy carded batts, the smoothest yarns out of top. Your fiber handling technique while spinning plays a part too, but if you start trying different breeds and different fiber preps, even handling the fiber the exact same way you will see immediate difference.
Dangit, I so wish I had this video 2 days ago when I blindly ordered some random horsehair canvas for my Hamilton spencer! It sounds like I need to have a bit of a re-think about how I'm going to approach my interfacing materials. At least the stuff I ordered won't go to waste, but it sounds like I need to come up with a better plan for other materials to use along with it.
Canadian resource for tailoring supplies - Darrell Thomas Textiles (Almont, Ontario). Fantastic store and they're even having a sale right now on deadstock designer fabric.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
Do you know of any Canadian suppliers of silk button hole twist? I found a place in BC and ordered in December and the order may arrive this week.
@@susanrobertson984 DT sells the Gutterman silk. But it's the regular weight, not the silk twist. Last time I was in the store (before he relocated) he had polyester buttonhole twist. But if enough of ask for silk twist...
@@susanrobertson984 Who's your BC supplier?
Say it loud and say it proud. Because independent fabric and haberdashery suppliers are in danger of dropping like the proverbial flies... now's the time to show our support.
- C.
@@stevezytveld6585 it is called Cindy’s Threadworks. I ordered once in early December because she has Superior threads from the US not in stock but she orders them. She got in touch early Jan to say her regular suppliers didn’t have what I wanted and she was trying some others. I should get the thread this week. So if you are not in a hurry ... which I was not!! The regular Gutterman silk thread is available lots of places including Fabricland. But everyone keeps running out of dark grey!!
Oog...rubberized horsehair...horsehair padded upholstery...widely used in the 1950s...memories of a very prickly childhood (shudder).
Sweet! Just what I needed. You always provide such excellent topics. 😊
This was amazing. Terms are often the largest barrier to entry when it comes to locating supplies. Thank you soooo much!
The subtitles sometimes give me such a chuckle 🤭: “but we’re going to specifically focus in on wolves because that tends to be the most typical type of tailoring fabric [...]” 15:58
I missed that one- but I'm going to leave it now 😂
Can you do a video on historical fashion books ?
This is an awesome idea for a video!
This was amazing! It also made me wonder about caring for and cleaning the garments. I'm sure just chucking things in the washing machine is probably not a good idea but where to begin?
That was my first question about stiffened fabrics. Can it be washed at all? What can be washed?
You really shouldn’t be wet washing a heavily tailored garment. They’re simply not designed for it, and the fabrics generally don’t wet wash well and frankly a tailored garment shouldn’t need washing. They’re not generally in contact with bare skin, If they get muddy, let it dry and brush it off and any spills should be spot cleaned. To generally refresh, spray with alcohol and let air dry.
ahh thank you so much for this!!! i’m very new to like, heavy craftsmanship (most of my sewing projects have been simple skirts and shirts or like, cosplay pieces), so i’m always interested in the more heavy duty learning outside of just what i pick up from videos 💕
i hope if you don’t already have plans for it that you’ll maybe do a follow up video about upkeep and whatnot for modern made tailored clothing (storage, cleaning, etc) bc ive seen some on historical pieces, but im never sure about what of these fabrics is ok to fold/wash/hang/etc haha;;
U so amazing!! (sew amazing?) I genuinely love how you are doing the opposite of tailors back in the day protecting the trade secrets. Thank you for being the opposite of "finish in the usual fashion."
You give university level content in a way that I understand. You make tailoring seem doable. What a friendly and expert way you have! Thank you!
i never put a video in my costuming save for later list so fast as i did this one. Gosh golly I needed this just as a way to get my ducks in a row ( been watching my ducks wander lazily around for about six months now) . All my supplies are specific to quilting and I have been needing to get more organized, this list is going to be so helpful- I know i will be returning to it many times in the near future . Thank you so much.
It's so good to have all this information in the same place, now I need to translate some of the terms and hope I find the correct translation because it is not allways easy in sewing and embroidery.
Tava a pensar o mesmo 😩
THANK YOU! I do confess it's starting to feel as though you're reading my mind - exactly when a question in my head becomes urgent, out comes your next video answering it ;-) Additional sources in Europe would be greatly appreciated as they surface! (Trying to reduce the shipping footprint of the materials I acquire as much as possible.)
When it comes to wools, I've had decent luck with a couple of UK suppliers; Croft Mill and Fabworks.
I'm not sure about mainland continent suppliers, sadly, but good luck finding what you need! :)
@@wiggle_duck9063 Thank you, and indeed! Alas, Brexit has made it hardly less expensive and time-consuming to order from the UK as from the US (though at least the shipping distance is less, of course). The Historical Fabric Store in Sweden (which Nicole Rudolph links!) is fabulous for wools and broadcloths and linen canvas and such! But I've not been able to find any suppliers of 18thC button moulds on the mainland at all....
I was supposed to be winding down to sleep but now I'm thirst scrolling through wool vendors
Im saving this video to watch over and over. Needed this info. Thanks!
That's the video I needed a year ago or so.
Now I only need another one that translates all the terms into German, because the staff at fabric shops usually have no clue what [insert historical sewing related English term here] is.
I am so thrilled! It is super hard to find decent historical fabrics where I live. Especially wool's are always a blend, or felt. Its nearly impossible to find something without synthetics in it! Now I have two more shops to browse trough. Thank you!
😅 Yes ma’am, I will hand Stitch in the sleeves.
Honestly, the process of getting sleeves in by machine is such a punishment for being alive, I'm very tempted to do it by hand now. Goodness, it might even be faster.
Oh finally an explanation on the differences between petersham and other ribbon that I can understand!
A note from a spinner re; superfine wool and worsted wool- (wow this got long)
superfine in spinning relates to the "softness" of the wool, the microns of the individual hairs that make up the wool! The smaller the number the softer the wool. a typical merino wool is in the mid 20s. Worsted refers to how you prepare the wool to spin it. The other way you can spin is "woolen" (traditionally/historically these are the two styles of spinning- modern spinners are getting creative and making more). Worsted spinning is spun with the wool hairs in a row, lined up all facing the same direction with the goal of being smooth and having the fuzzy halo of fiber that you see when you hold a thread up to the light as unpronounced as possible. Woolen spun thread is spun from what is called a "rolag" think a metal spring but made of unspun wool. The goal in woolen spinning is to trap as much air as possible, making a fuzzier, warmer thread. There is also a difference in the strength of each thread, and the amount of stretch, but I think the most important here is the fuzzy halo that you get with woolen spun verses the less fuzzy worsted.
I love all your videos so much, but this is particularly useful. Thank you so much!
As someone who would like to eventually make his own suits; thank you for this!
This is amazing! Thank you for putting together such a comprehensive resource for tailoring. There were a few items I knew the names of, but had never seen examples, and a few more I had never heard of. Seeing examples of each item, while discussing usage was incredibly helpful, and I don’t think I’ve ever seen a video quite like this, before. Thank you, again, and have a wonderful, joyous week.
Thank you so much for this, Nicole! I've been wanting something like this for a while now. Also, now I have to go and unpick some handstitching and acquire tailors tape, because...yeah. (swearing so much in my head rn). I really appreciate the additional knowledge of materials! I will be referencing this video so much as I learn how to tailor things properly! You're a gem!
I've been using up the cotton threads that came with my grandmother's old sewing box for tacking/basting; the nice quality Sylko Three Shells twist... as I found out the hard way that as it is probably over 50 years old (judging by the dates of some of the other items in the box), it doesn't have the strength not to give way in structural hand-sewing! Also a nice rememberance of her.
Good thinking
Vintage threads are something I'd love to collect, like Noelle does, but I'd never use them - as much as it's not historical, I stick to modern polyester threads for everything so far. If I worked larger visible stitches into some garments I'd probably buy silk, but otherwise polyester does the job quite well when it comes to wearable historybounding/vintage-style/modern clothes and has the added bonus of working very well for both machine and hand-sewing.
Thank you for all this wonderful knowledge! I went to fashion college but we only ever learned the basics and fast-fashion techniques. If you ever choose to teach a course I want to take it 💗
I have been waiting for this for YEARS! Thank you.
Such a lovely video. Especially love the little 'cards'/title screens. The fond and little border look absolutely lovely.
The historic touch on all the parts that go into tailoring is super nice, and not something you often find when looking for tutorials.
I love to listen to your videos. However, as I am sadly a noob at anything sewing related, though very interested in tailoring, I do notice that there are plenty of times that I can't totally follow what is going on. (Not a problem, I just need to learn more still.) However, I managed to understand and follow everything in this video. Kudos on the noob friendliness :D
Also all the suits and tailored pieces you own are incredible, such a fantastic job. They are all so district in style from each other too.
The part about fabrics was most useful to me only because I've been confused as to what I should buy for a vest/waistcoat. Thank you!
Thank you thank you thank you. I went to buy my first order of 'nice thread' for my historical sewing and just froze because I didn't have a clue as to what was what. Or what weights were good for what. I just ended up closing my web browser to think about it another day. So thank you so much for this needed video. 🥰❤🧡💛💚💙💜🥰
Would the hand-stitching-the-sleeve-in tip also be a good idea for the crotch seam of tailored pants?
1:00 "...why you should not be using horsehair fabric for everything tailoring."
I'm allergic to horsehair. That's a relief to hear.
Thank you for this resource!
I’d also like to say, I love your look today. It’s fantastic!
Here I am viciously taking notes for the future historical garments I plan on making... Ya know, the usual
I have paused 3 minutes in so I will edit my comment if you answer my question - but I have ADHD and don't want to forget my question!
I have been slowly trying to move my whole lifestyle to more "natural" and or sustainable or traditional things (like we don't use paper napkins, tissues, or towels at my house, I use face scrubbies that I made from old towels and flannel, I upcycled my kids' cloth diapers into new things as well). This isn't necessarily values driven...I have a roll of paper towels in my car for emergencies and checking my oil, for example. I just find it's cheaper to wash a load of cloth towels, napkins, and handkerchiefs every week over buying them. But I also like the idea that things like cotton and wool will eventually break down in the environment (even though most paper does, too).
Would the buckram be able to replace modern interfacing for projects like the handles of shopping bags or a wallet, and that kind of thing b/c even though I keep it for a while I still wish I had a less...artificial(?) interfacing than the iron-on stuff. I worry the adhesives and polyester aren't good long term for decomposing later. Most people keep their wallets and bags for a while, but they do still wear out. If I can cannibalize the zippers and D-rings I'll do that but when I toss the old pieces into the trash I know that interface will stick around.
Yeah! That'd be a great use of canvas. There are other types of interfacing that might do well that are cotton based, too (and cheaper). I'd recommend checking out the etsy shop I link a bunch in my description (or any tailoring site) and there will be loads of options. You may also end up wanting a tape instead of a fabric, so you could fold the fabric over it so it's not bulky in the seam allowance.
@@NicoleRudolph Thank you!
This is so useful! Thank you so much for making this video!
Best UK tailoring places - Kenton Trimmings, The Lining Company (aka Bernstein and Banley), MacCulloch & Wallis, Vena Cava Design have also recently started doing tailoring stuff too but I get corset stuff from them! Abraham Moon for Wool!
Thanks for that. Earned me some brownie points with my wife.
Thank you for making this video. I am currently committing to making for myself Richard Sharps' (Sean Bean) officer jacket from "Sharps' Rifle's", and a cloak (Bernadette Banner red cloak) to wear over top of it in the winter time. To be donene in Prussian Blue with white wool embroidery and braids with mother of pearl buttons for my grandmother's collection. And on the back of the jacket where the braiding does the loop de loop I am going to do the Tree of Gondor. And Elvis writing and little flowers along the Hem of both the jacket and cloak. The lining is a separate project entirely, so I'm going to do a temporary lining and then work on my tapestry embroidered lining as I enjoy tapestry embroidery, I plan to wear this coat for the rest of my life, so I might as well take my time on it like my grandmother and her grandmother did.
Thank you so much for this wonderfully detailed and informative video! It also happens to be perfectly timed for me - I'm struggling with the collar and lapel of a 1939 dress pattern. After watching this, I learned that I need to do some shopping to get the right materials to properly finish it.
THIS IS AMAZING. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and making tailoring a *bit* less scary. Are there any interfacings or canvases (canvasi?) that are safe to machine wash? My understanding is that many of the stabilizers are water-based?
This has been an amazing video!
I have 2 lingering interrogations though:
1. I read that it's better for the thread to be weaker than the fabric, so that if there's tension, or over the the long run, it's the thread that gives away first instead of it sawing through and ripping the fabric. What's your take on this?
2. I don't understand the idea behind handstitching sleeves in for more stretch, if it's done with the stiff and sturdy backstitch. Can you explain this in a little more detail please?
A backstitch still has some stretch to it, about as much as a plain weave wool on the straight grain. A lock stitch has zero stretch or give to it at all, beucase of how it’s formed.
I never knew that about the difference between scissors and shears!! It's so obvious now that I think about them!
Love your content! Love that you are teaching and learning history at the same time :) Have been sewing since I was very young also! Have the dress my grandmother recreated for the bicentennial and a scrap of fabric from a dress worn at George Washington's Inauguration. I look for either content or great voices. See Audrey Coyne's Opera Singer TRICKS to Have a MORE Attractive Voice. also Fairyland Cottage channel.
Does anyone know where else to buy linen canvas? I need some light colored linen canvas, but it’s out of stock at the Etsy link in the description. When I messaged the Etsy shop they said they would not be able to restock because the supplier went out of business due to COVID.
If anyone in Britian is looking for good online wool supplier - check out Hainsworth. Hainsworth cloth is used for dress military uniforms. Not cheap but good quality.
I'm wondering how a light wool lining on a summer weight raincoat would be. Perhaps with a nylon shell. For those times when it's damp and you want a jacket, but it's warm enough that wearing one makes you sweat
What is the difference between linen canvas and just a heavy plain weave linen, if any? And can i use the heavy linen as substitution in a pinch?
Thank you for sharing you knowledge so freely and for a beautiful video!
✈✂️ Double check your airport's specific policy on craft items. Just had my thread snips (1 inch blade) confiscated during a gate check before leaving Greece. Airport policy was different than the airline policy.
Gosh, I love your channel, I learn so much. I count myself fairly experienced at sewing but I learn an amazing amount. Your channel just has this element of something that others don’t
Here I am back, I paid a lot attention to the thread that you mentioned, when I said I am back is because I went to Google to ask what is a chain stitching machine and sawba few videos and also for hand sewing the sleeve. So relax listening to you while I am stretching even though I know I am not into making pieces of clothes so complicated. Is good to know to learn new words.
Your videos are so informative and engaging! So glad I found you via Abby, I'm so jealous of both of you having a sewing human as a neighbour and friend!
Could wool crepe be used for a "very drapey but still have some structure" 1950s dress?
Thank you so much! This was very insightful!! I personaly looove tropical weight wools.....for circle skirts! So chic and twirly, and it does not create frixion with cotton tights.
Thanks for all this good info! The fabric store I usually deal with and its online counterpart don't seem to have anything that's pure wool, they mostly seem to be polyester blends, so if and when I decide it's time to make something out of wool, I'll have to do some hunting. And I will probably come back to this video to remember the words I need for what I want :)
Unfortunately for lefthanders, options are pretty limited when it comes to scissors and shears. I'm glad I've got two good pairs of lefty shears now, although I discovered with the new pair that the old pair was hinged righty. *mind blown* I might actually be able to cut a straight line now that I don't have to look over the far side of my scissors to see my line...
I am not a lefty, but that sounds like the kind of frustrating that wpuld make me walk away forever. Glad you found something truly useful
Thanks for all the useful information. Now I have to find an online shop for those things here in Europe. I just started to make my own clothes (that are not knit) and still need to find the right materials near me.
And as a crafter spinning her own yarn I have to add a little more.
The most important difference between worsted and woolen spun wool is actually in the fiber preparation. (The way it is spun makes a difference as well, but is of less importance in the effect it has)
For worsted spun wool yarn the fibers are combed to
1) remove shorter fibers from it
2) so that all fibers are parallel to each other
Both contribute to the much smoother quality of such yarns even before a lot of twist is put in.
Woolen spun wool yarn is made from fiber long and short, laying every which way, and often spun in a looser manner. This contributes to a more rough appearance, as those shorter fibers and different angled longer ones stick out to the sides, and to those yarns being warmer. More air is trapped after all.
There are quite a lot of videos here on youtube showing the differences and how it's done in handspinning (both with spindle and a wheel)
Thank you! So much to learn and to have all this in one place, the best. I wish I could give it TWO thumbs up!👍 👍 how could anyone give this a thumbs down? 😳🙄
Thank you so much, I've been So. Confused. about wool
Thank you so much for simplifying the tailoring supplies. I'm new to tailoring and just really getting started in historical clothing. I am entirely self taught with only youtube tutorials and various books to show me the way. Needless to say seeing all the different components that actually go into tailoring cam be a bit daunting. This was a very practical tools of the trade video. It makes it way less confusing as to what I will need. If you ever care to share your knowledge of tailor and make a tutorial, that would be beyond awesome. ❤
i tried using tape along a neckline and it’s left a weird indent in the profile of my silhouette and now my neckline is slightly funky. always more to learn!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I am getting back into sewing and pattern drafting after a hiatus of 40 years and this video, dear Nicole, has saved me so much time and money that would have been wasted on so many unnecessary items. You speak with so much clarity and wisdom...I cannot thank you enough...
Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge! I’ve watched and rewatched this video a couple of times while I’m in my own sewing room. If you ever teach an online tailoring class please let us in the RUclips world hear about it.
You are a great teacher, I have learned so much here.
You are a wealth of knowledge would love for you to do some basic tutorials on the stitches and starting to make some basic items so people like me can get started and be confident when moving on the more complicated garments. Thank you for these videos I am sure this video will be used as a reference many times over. I will be saving this for sure. Cheers Tricia.
I love how she explains the history of the materials and processes. Ot makes you appreciate even more the construction of the garments you use.
This is a perfect example of what Sir Tim Berners-Lee invented the Internet for. I'm enthralled watching it, every time.
TBH I don't know if I'm ever going to attempt tailoring myself, but now I will be more able to follow along with people who are, and know what they're talking about!
This video makes tailoring look so much less scary.
Yup, that pretty much covers it. By the way, if you type in Tailor's Tape (on Amazon), you will get a metric ton of measuring tapes, so you'll have to wade through that.
✍ good, good. 2021 is my DIY clothes year. so much new information
Oh my word!!!!! So many questions answered! You are truly the most amazing knowledgeable go to source ever! Seriously thank you Nichole for sharing the wonderfulness of you and your vast knowledge and experience. I truly appreciate you.
I am a dress maker but really want to get more in to tailoring so this video is gold! Really hoping you can do a book recommendation video, not just about historical sewing but general tailoring🤞🤞I really love your skills and want to learn them to so I have some serious studying and practicing to do💪💪
😅 when you said broadcloth I immediately thought poly-cotton and was happy for a fraction of a second until I realised you meant wool. (Poly-cotton broadcloth is $4 a metre where I am, and about all I can afford for making any garment beyond the size of a facemask😅 everything else, on what you would likely consider the cheap end is around $20 a metre for cotton, nevermind any of the fancy fabrics😢)
Wow. Cotton shouldn’t be above around 5$ a metre for a plain weave. The area you’re in must be very expensive.
@@CraftQueenJr it is. Sadly. They even brought up prices. Though thankfully only 50 cents extra for the poly-cotton broadcloth. The other cotton I mentioned was quilters cotton, they tell me, the printed stuff. But I recently found they have 100% cotton broadcloth, but that's around $7 per metre. (Though that may have been bumped to $8 with the price change.)
I live rural and I think that's the reasoning for the high prices. More gas money from the supplier to ship it or whatever. 🤷
Can you please make a coat so we can see the details inside and specially the armholes and back vents where i seem to never get right.
You are a literal godsend I have been looking for this exact content for years!!!
I've been longing for a video like this for so long, and finally it's here! Thank you so much. I was wondering forever if horsehair canvas was really the only interfacing option for historical garments.
I love your videos...the amount of knowledge, the aesthetics, the presentation... you're in my top 5 gotta watch channels. Thank you!
What a great video. I have been doing - or trying to do some amateur tailoring for over 20 years and had almost given up. Finding fabrics, and all these supplies here in New Zealand is now next to impossible. So thanks for the links. I am interested in 1910s, 1920s and very early 1930s era menswear. I have a number of vintage tailoring books and have had several suits and pairs of trousers made by local tailors here in NZ with largely unsatisfactory results due to the tailors not really being interested in any styles older than they are personally. I have some questions..
The most common fabric mentioned both by present day tailors here and in my mostly British books (from the eras of which I'm interested in) is flannel. I realise what we call flannelette and winceyette here in NZ is often called flannel in the US and as a result online most references to flannel refer to this fabric. The flannel my suits and trousers are made from is quite a different fabric to what we call flannelette. What we call flannel here is a light to medium weight wool fabric which resembles the tweed in your video. We also talk of tweed, but it tends to be heavier and often in brown and green colours suited to country living and hunting. Very few of the surviving fabric shops here now sell either tweed or flannel (as we call it, both flannelette and winceyette are still readily available). I have tried searching online and found little to explain this difference of terminology. Do you know what these types of flannels are and if so are you able to please explain as I have often found it confusing?
My other questions relates to a couple fabrics which I have had trouble finding. Firstly is one called called Silesia. It seems to be the go to fabric for almost all linings and a lot of other things in my vintage books. Do you know what this is and can you recommend a place to get it?
The other fabric is Cambric. Until about 1932/33 when Pique (aka Marcella) fabric started being used for men's white tie waistcoats a type of high grade flat weave Cambric was commonly used from the late nineteenth century onwards, becoming more fashionable in the 1910s. Most people today, if they ever get the chance to wear white tie to an event, wear the pique fabric 1930s style waistcoats and some sources even claim that the pique fabric was used in the 1910s and 20s although I have found no evidence to support this - only plenty to show how the new style was introduced in the early 1930s. It is possible to find an handkerchief grade Cambric, but my research leads me to believe this is of a much lighter weight than the fabric used in early 20th centuries for evening waistcoats. Do you have any idea if such a fabric is being made anywhere today? All research I have done leads me to think it is not, but you seem to have found plenty of things that I have spent years searching for, so maybe you (or others) may know.
And finally, it's so great to see all these different types of linen canvasses are still available. My old books mention various types, but I have always struggled to find anything vintage appropriate other than hair canvas. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and experience.
I've been trying to sort out the same things. From what I've read, 1) Cambric could have come in different weights (even though I don't have any info on waistcoats), 2) the term Pique is used for a very different fabric now than it was in the past; 3) "flannel" found in a regular US fabric store is what you call "flannelette" - a cotton fabric with nap on both sides used for pajamas and such. Traditional worsted suiting flannel is only available through specialist tailoring suppliers, like B.Black&Sons. The practice of using the same name for very different materials is annoying, isn't it? I suggest looking up a late 19th - early 20th C books (before 1920s) with names along the lines of: 'History of Cotton Manufacture' or '(Reports on the ) State of the Textile Industry' or something similar- there were several published at the turn of that century, and I think that's where I've seen that info, sorry, can't remember the exact title off the top of my head. Another good source would be the oldest Textile Dictionary you can find - they go back a couple of centuries.
Do you have any interfacing suggestions for people who, for religious reasons, can't combine wool and linen in one garment, but still want a nice wool suit?
Yay someone with my problem!
I think you can get cottons in similar weaves 🤷♀️
Apparently, that's what tailors swap the linen out with when you get something checked for shatnez.
I have always used cotton for my interfacing. Because I would blow the budget on the outer fabrics....
OMG Nicole, that 1930s suit jacket is giving me f e e l i n g s
Thank you for making this! I've been doing historical costume for ages, but I'm new to 19thC stuff (which is weird, since it's always been my one true love, but I got distracted by the SCA :P ), and this is the best video of its kind that I've seen. I don't feel silly for not having known much of this stuff before, but it could so easily have happened that way, haha. Your channel is great, keep going!
I absolutely want to learn tailoring
Love the tropical jacket! Super pretty 💕
First time here.. Thank you. I enjoyed this very much and it was very educational. You are adorable and remind me of a mellow Rachael Maddow like her baby sister if she had one😊. Your facial expressions are kind and welcoming.
Fantastic as always! Super interesting and amazingly helpful links!
And if any UK sewists know a Kinkame equivalent thread that would be awesome. Ive found YLI thread, similar? 🤷♀️ but Kinkame is nowhere to be found in the UK it seems.
Definitely going to be taking notes! Thank you so much for putting all this info together and in such a straightforward manner
You are a great fountain of knowledgeable and resource for the new tailor. A dressmaker myself, I enjoyed watching this video. Thank you!
I set my sleeves in for my jacket a bit too soon so to see, as I machine stitched them XD but my future garments will be getting handsewn sleeves! Also I’m very curious about what makes a wool better suited for summer, I thought it was thickness but I might have to look it up
The English language is so confusing sometimes... Buckram. Well, is it a buck, or a ram?? And what does a male deer and a male sheep have to do with fabric??
Anyway, very informative video!