When I measure for the wrist, I often measure the widest part of my forearm, that way when I am doing dishes or food prep, I can push the sleeves up to keep them out of the way.
Yes!! I often have that problem with jackets! Like come on guys I need to wash my hands! 🤦
5 лет назад+208
as a guy that's attempting to learn to sew for the first time to create his own medieval garments, these videos help SO MUCH. Please keep these up and don't be afraid to do more guy-related stuff. I'd love to learn how to sew a Chaperon.
Absolutely! My male projects often depend on what the gentleman in my life is currently wanting for his kit, but that would be a fun project one of these days!
Yes. I've had the same difficulty @ShawnMacqueen. Now I'm excited about possible menswear videos. I may even try to combine some patterns in the future to make some form of hybrid genderneutral semi-but -also very-much-not-historically-accurate clothing though I suspect I'm getting a little a head of myself.
@@eyesofmuffin look up how to draft the basic bodice on any drafting learning channel, and then you can go from there to draw your own patterns and make your own designs. And sleeves, of course.
A general search on earlier internet may still result in: old books' images and text with wonderful history of what they were wearing and why, by many authors. Also maybe about leather, threads, cords, weaving?
My granny always had us start out with hankerchiefs to practice hand stitching and the like then make sleepshirts like you show us as wonderful first "full" projects because if you feel you've messed up anything, well, it's underwear nobody is going to see it. #BernadetteBannerBrigade #HandFelledHemsForLife
My first thing I ever did on a serger was a bias satin nightshirt. Maybe not the best first project for a fairly new sewer, but it's what I wanted (it was a copy of one I already had). Finished it in a day, and felt much better about having just failed my first driving test. Still wear it 6 years later. Not perfect, but very nice!
An all female bardcore/metal band? With bagpipe, flute lute electric lute ,electric violin, koto drum, kettle drum rock drum, rock guitar and doors style keyboards...?
I made a shift using an old cotton bed sheet (and wear it to bed as my most favourite nightie!) but if think it's time to buy some actual linen and have another go at basic undergarments!
I love wearing tunics to bed. Some guy asked me "what do you wear to bed?" I got really nervous and wasn't answering. " Your birthday suit?" How utterly brash, uncouth and forward can this fellow be I thought to myself. " No, I wear clothing. I just don't want to say what." "A neglige?" "Excuse me but I'm 60. Those days are looong past" Then I started laughing- what the hell... "So you really want to know what I wear to bed. Okay. I wear historically correct Medieval tunics I make myself" There was a very long pause from this inquiring, possibly new boyfriend. Then " Really? Actually I find that kinda sexy" This tale of Senior flirtation ended with figuring out this fellow was nothing more than a rogue with a roving eye. That's okay. I still find sleeping in my tunics 'kinda comfy'.lol
Efficient cutting is period! pleasepleaseplease do a late 1400s kirtle!! I'm kind of obsessed with the 1490s right now, and it's such an interesting transitional period that it's REALLY HARD to figure out how to do it.
@@AndromedaCripps they're the pieces that I really want to make, but whenever I start them, I realise that there just isn't enough alcohol or tea (depending on where I'm at) in the world to keep me sane throughout the process....
As someone who is fairly new to the world of sewing but especially sewing as recreation of period items, THANK YOU FOR BEING SO INCREDIBLY THOROUGH AND DETAILED.
I also have a greyhound helper and a cat that sits on what ever is about to be sewed, even if there is decoy fabric set out for him! I couldn't imagine sewing with out them!
My cat also seems to work out exactly what I am going to work on next and sit right in the middle of it.... OR wait until my back is turned then come in muddy and wet and walk all over it (for extra points he will bring a frog in with him too).
Hard same! My cats love to sit/stand/play with my cross stitch, sewing, oracle cards, and basically anything that I don’t need them in the middle of! 😂
I literally came to comment to say I'm going to be making one to use as sleepwear - I'm not likely to want to wear full historical garb anytime soon (nor have an opportunity to) so I've been looking for things to wear everyday, and a linen shift to sleep in sounds so comfy!
I so rarely get flashes of inspiration that actually lead to a project, but watching your video has done that for me! I jumped up from the couch, wrote down my measurements, rummaged through my fabric stash and found some leftover linen and and cut out a shift. It's the shortest time I've ever had from inspiration to realization, since my most common speed bump is cutting anxiety, lol. Thank you so much for rebooting my muse!
Hahah, same, our dog used to just walk all over my laid out patterns and fabric. "Whatcha dooooing?" "I can help you! Oh I know! I'll walk all over and muss up the pattern paper and lick at the pins poking everywhere!" I really had to get him out of there for his own safety! XD
When a firm, less likely to stretch rolled hem is desired... a fine cord is laid at the edge and the fabric edge is rolled around the cord. I was taught to lick my finger and thumb, pinch the cord and roll the edge. (water would probably work)
@serendipidus1 ... in most cases the cord stays in, to support the edge... I have seen where the technique was used to make a fancy trim edge... in a delicate fabric.. the cord is laid in, rolled and left long at the ends ... then at desired increments, the weave of the fabric is wallowed open and the cord pulled out to make a loop. These picot loops can be secured with a few stitches or left loose... and even worked with crochet stitching, needle laces etc. Very awesome, fine extra extra high quality hand work... extremely rare to see or do.... .
I spend more time on basic sewing than on projects, actually, and I think most women have through the centuries. In the 21st century, that means repairing clothes, sewing curtains & pillowcases, resizing hand-me-downs, and retailoring thrift store finds.
Lady_Sir_Knight Aha! At first I thought she said “hand felting” but no, hand felling is very different! I am a historical reenactor that is a spinner, weaver, and dyer and I prefer to shape my pieces on the loom during weaving. To me its much simpler, esp with thicker yarns that are handspun. I know what she is doing has something to do with stitching in, on, or around the seam, but having never seen this before, I am not sure what she is doing here. It looks very unfamiliar.
Sheila Mayer it’s basically a way of concealing seam allowances by trimming one of them then folding the wider (untrimmed) one around the other (trimmed) to encase it, then securing with a felling stitch. It gives you clean finished seams on the inside of a garment and protects seam allowances from fraying.
I’m completely living for those hand sewing video clips in this vid. Why is this so soothing? Also, suuuuper appreciate the basic pattern instruction. Many thanks
Well, I am on my first vacation in 3 years ( I am a nurse) and today I decided to match my A.D.H.D with RUclips and go where ever my brain summons a peak of interest. My late grandmother was a phenomenal seamstress , so good she did the entire town which we lived in that included the senior police force, some of the fire-dept , and other various well respected business and people in our tiny Newfoundland town. I am the only grand child that doesn't know how to sew the tiniest bit and always envied such a magical craft. Hours of dedication and precision is nothing short of remarkable and mind blowing. Sewing is a art that I have so much respect and awe for as I understand at the very least the hours of dedication it goes in to making different garments. I think as a rambunctious child sitting down period was hard for me to do let alone learning to sew lol. As an adult I am much more managed with my concentration to achieve such a goal. My favourite thing in the world is learning and this video just warmed my heart and absolutely inspired met to go down the path of learning how to sew . You're so warm and inviting and your work is impeccable and you're very patient and easy to understand - AND FUN! So I thank you! due to nursing shortage I cannot travel outside of my province for vacation so I am signing myself up for a sewing with you.
I made my first shift out of a thrift store cotton bedsheet. $5 under dress! I have since made a linen one, and there is something so delightfully old-fashioned about wearing it. I feel instantly cuter, and my husband agrees!
You really helped explain a lot of the questions I have had trying to draft shifts and you made it a lot less scary looking. And the visual explanation helps me a lot
I'm 64 & one of my fav childhood memories is of Mom searching & ironing my slip before I dressed to go to school. There is something about the smell of nice cotton & starch that takes me right back to that. Esp as it was Winter & my slip was WARM! People didn't run their children to school. These days, I'm a fan of linen! Huzzah for the SCA!
I have been teaching my daughter how to sew. We are also members of SCA, so her first project are T tunics. she sat down to watch with me and said that she need to watch this so she know how.
Linen smallclothes are gorgeous when all those messy edges are hemmed. (I can see why they lasted so long). I have a beautifully simple method for men’s chemises which borrowed from landskenecht fashion. I buy 36in linen (it exists thankfully) or muslin. Use a yard for each sleeve and 2-3 for the body (cut in half like your shift body here), stitch the selvedges together and join the shoulders parallel to the body (with large gussets of course) to finish I gather the sleeve ends and 4 yards of raw edge at the top into cuff and collar bands and it makes this beautiful, roomy ruffled shirt. (the neck gets a hemmed slit and the cuffs have a slit made of unjoined selvedge at the end of the sleeve) I’m not sure this style works for any men’s clothes pre 1500s though, but poofy shirts are fun.
I loved seeing your dog join you with your fabric. My cats do the same thing but mine lay down and don't move. You can' yell at hem them just want to join us and help if they can. Just love, both ways. Thank you
Inspired (to an extent) by the memory of this video, and because of the new Emma, I made my first ever piece of historical clothing (and actually my first piece of sewn clothing of any kind) a few days ago: and early 19th century shift! I'm sure its not the best - I drafted the pattern myself, machine sewed the whole thing, my seams aren't that even - but I made it! I made it for my friend because she's less curvy so I figured she might be a bit easier to fit. I really hadn't anticipated how giddily exciting it would feel to see someone wearing something that I made!
Thank you SO much for the CG visuals in this video, And the tip to flip the gores to prevent bias to bias stretching, And the rolled edge, Just ..... everything. Thank you.
So clever!!! I live by myself so I don’t have any assistance except my greyhound Darcy. He’s essentially useless except for lounging about looking cute. I need a marking tool like this ASAP!
OMG! I've spent the last week researching medieval shifts and I was getting nowhere. I used you kirtle tutorial to help make my first ever medieval outfit for the Visby medieval week and I wanted my next proper project to be making a shift. Thank you!!! X
Your dog coming to stand on your work made me laugh so hard! I struggle with keeping my cat off my work and out of my pins. Thanks for sharing your craft with us!
Do I have any reason, interest, material, tools or money to make a shift? - no. Am I watching this video for about the 20th time anyway, because your voice is calming and theses Tutorials are just the right amount of distraction while studiing? - Yes, absolutely
I just started making a kirtle (based on your pattern drafting and heraldic dress videos!) and I knew I wanted a shift to go under it, so this is perfect timing! And I look forward to more #basicgarb :D
I followed her Kirtle tutorial a few years ago and despite the fact that its machine sewn in polyester it is very supportive. And I'm a big girl - I can wear it without a bra comfortably.
I love this tutorial. I need a couple more linen shifts and the way I made them years ago when I first started out with medieval clothes was a bit more complicated. I like yours best. Thanks! And I’m copying your offset seam deal too. Brilliant. I hate cutting all those seams down for felling.
I LOVE you channel! My greyhound Darcy is my assistant and he ensures his footprints are on stamped every project. Plus, he has his own handmade doggie quilts for good measure. Catherine is adorable! I just purchased an early 19th century shift from France to use as a pattern for my own shift. It is in transit from France. I look forward to getting it soon to start my own handmade shifts from here on out. Your techniques are helping me prepare for my next project! Thank you so much for the wonderful details. Ps: Darcy is white/brown ticking with brown brindle patches similar to Catherine! They could be litter mates!
This is such a good video for so many reasons. I'm not planning on making a shift anytime soon but you gave so many good beginner tips that I've never heard anywhere else, and I really appreciate that.
I just want to thank you for this lovely instructive video. When your nephew reveals his plans for a viking birthday where the guests are expected to attend in costume, this becomes a really good foundational layer. :)
That’s cool! I’m planning a viking birthday party for myself this year for when I turn 40, mostly to celebrate and offset the gloom that can pounce when thinking about myself as a woman who’s turning 40 with no partner.
@@angelcollina I celebrated my 40th birthday by inviting my family (we're not a big family) to go to the local safari-park with me. And then we brought drink and sandwiches and cake and coffee. The few kids *loved* it - and even the adults had a great time. I made sure to circulate between different groups of family members as we walked around the exhibits, but it was really great because nobody had to do anything, really. I didn't have to be the host and give speeches, and nobody else had to give speeches either. We just talked, and I asked people to send me the photos they took during the day afterwards, so I didn't even have to do that. So. Much. Fun. :D
I am making a short sleeve and long sleeve shirt now. I am planning to modify this to make a cover skirt to use with a corset and a cover shift. Thanks for the directions. Your directions are the best I have seen. About to start sewing. Again thanks.
Thank you so much for this video! I'm working on my first shift and I've been constantly referencing your video for little details I'm unsure of. Literally could not have done it without you!!
I used this video years ago to make my first undershirt and I'm coming back as e refresher because I have a baby on the way and need to start on gowns for her for next spring
Oh, what perfect timing. Have been looking around, reading various things about medieval shifts. And just this afternoon planned a date with a friend to go to an event. I know what I will be watching after dinner!
OMG! This video is the most timely video ever! My first SCA event is coming up in a few weeks and I'm scrambling to get some basic garb sewn. I NEEDED this! There are a billion resources for gowns and seemingly almost nothing for smocks. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
“I have lists upon lists to look at, I have Pinterest board upon Pinterest board,” is the biggest mood. [ *side-eyes 4/5 of my numerous Pinterest boards...* ] Side-note: I’m about to completely hand-sew my first Renaissance shirt for Karolina’s #TheStripeyChallenge. I’ve also never self drafted a pattern. This is a HUGE help with making me less nervous about it. Those tips on measurements is a goldmine of info I would have never thought of!
This was recommended to me as both tops (I am developing sun sensitivity) and nightgowns. Came back to take notes and draw diagrams and will now go for it!!!! For the tops, I am keeping neck high, cutting a slit down center front and will edge with bias tape or something and have ties to close it.
making a medieval shift has been something i've been struggling with (even though it seems simple). thank you so much for this!! you've really helped me when it comes to my medieval garb and i honestly couldn't thank you enough. :))
As a novice sewer of things I think I can do this. I have been looking for an easy beginner project to practice on and this might just be it. Thank you for sharing!!
For marking fabrics, I have learned from a friend who works as a seamstress, that a crayola marker is a very visible and still completely washable option. Though you will need to be ok with potentially 'staining' your hands until you have a chance to wash them.
Thank you sooo much for sharing this construction video. I was literally just discussing with a friend of mine about how armscyes could be adjusted for smocks, and whether a square, triangular, or diamond gusset would work best for him. I am going to share this and hopefully it will help him with his next construction. If Mr Donner were wanting a man's early Tudor smock, I would love to see the construction video for it... Just throwing that out for ideas. Not that you don't already have a ton of them. Hahaha.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I've been looking a good video showing period appropriate undergarments to make and wear for my first SCA event. Bonus points for Greyhound cameo!😍
This was a fantastic tutorial - thank you! Seeing the measurements, etc from the 5 min mark was a big help. Makes me wish we could have done this as a geometry lesson in school - it's the perfect application!
Morgan, I am definitely going to make this. My mockup (probably calico) is likely to be destined to be a housedress! Since one of 'the clothes group' explained that the chemise is to protect the clothes from sebum and shed skin and sweat, we've been looking for an example to work from. We love your work, and finding this is fantastic. (The 'clothes group' is you, Bernadette Banner, Abby Cox, Nicole Rudolf, and a couple of others. This tells you a lot about my taste in clothes!)
Im just starting on a handsewn shift today - I’m not really into historical costuming but I have a huge problem with sweating at night, so I wanted to sew myself a couple of linen ‘night gowns’ - and why not just do a simple shift pattern, and do it by hand ;) And I’m TOTALLY inspired by you and Bernadette banner!!!
You Visual Aids and explanations of simple pattern drafting is AMAZING!! I'm a seamstress and I'm gonna totally reference this to other who are learning pattern drafting! 😍
This video inspired me to start my first historical costuming project. I finished the shift last night and really enjoyed the whole process. Thanks so much for these videos :)
If you wanted to machine stitch our felled seams, you could always try a blind hem stitch, that way there is only a small tick of thread that pops to the outside surface. Best place to find this type of stitch in modern garments would be mass produced mens suit or trouser hems.
Rewatched and drafted a pattern as I listened. Seems to coming together ok. Practicing with a cheap synthetic (old curtain). Once I have the stitching - ah linen!
I have the basic pattern instructions but I need the visual interpretation as well. Made my first one out of cotton just to practice and not happy with some aspects so I really needed this video. I want a linen shift but it’s an investment. Glad to have some instructions. Thanks 🙏
Thank you thank you thank you! And thanks for answering the linen weight question- I’ve been actively procrastinating because I didn’t want to buy the wrong fabric and then have wasted all that hand stitching.
Love this basicgarb idea. Need more please. I'm plus size so most patterns end with adding gussets. Patterns exist but this really helped explain fitting it very well.
Morgan, this video is incredibly well made, both clear and detailed. I’m not even planning to make a shift anytime soon and your teaching style kept me watching the whole thing
XD "Hi, Catherine" got me absolutely! Perfect simple pattern and great tips for a beginner, I'm still not sewing myself, but more and more tempted... Thank you for this!
Great video ! I was wondering how you could do your neckline so thin, happy to know that trick ^^ I did my shift in cotton so not really ideal to redo my neckline the same way, but I will be making a kirtle in linen soon, it will be fun to try it ^^
Yay! I'm so excited for this basics series! Even though medieval/Renaissance isn't my period (I'm more 1880-1914), it's so fun to learn about history and clothing construction from earlier periods. And I can definitely see your videomaking skills growing from your previous videos! :)
These videos always leave men wanting to make myself a smock and kirtle even though I know darn well I don't have anywhere to wear them. It just seems so comfy and practical!
I have lots of experience sewing but it's all been modern stuff. I've been wanting to get into costuming and I think this is the perfect project to get started with.
Just the video I have been wanting to see :) A few questions: What weight linen do you usually use for shifts? What type/size needle do you use for the hand sewing? Could you not leave the basting in the side seams in place until you'd done the fine stitching instead of removing it then having to pin again? Is there a reason to take it out first? Thanks again for a great video with such clear instructions. Look forward to seeing your future endeavors :)
Thank you for all the great questions Michelle! -I used 3.5 oz linen from fabrics-store.com/fabrics/linen-fabric-IL020-bleached-light/ for this project, although I would probably want to go with a 2.8 or 2.5 oz for a heavily gathered, late 1500's shift. -I use whichever needle jumps into my hand when I reach for one, usually something on the slightly longer side with a bigger eye, if I had my choice. -You can totally leave the basting in! I did my basting a little too close to the line where I wanted my actual stitching to go, so I ended up needing to remove it first :/ I need to remember to baste a little further in next time!
@@louisacapell if your basting stitches show along your seam that would be a reason to take them out. If you don't care then you can leave them in. It's your choice.
Welp, for a first-time ever sewing project, I’d say I’m pretty happy with how this turned out, and it’s really cool to be able to have something like this now (Also it’s great practice for running stitches and the windy ones). Definitely a good project for a beginner!
My new persona is Ottoman so I've been making a gomlek as opposed to this kind of shift. There's a couple references and paintings where the pieces appear to all be connected with contrasting insertion stitches. Luckily I found a website that gives great instructions for decorative insertion stitches. That's been really fun to learn. So I hemmed all the pieces and stitched them together using pearl cotton so the stitching between looks like crocheted trim. It's amazing what one can do with a shift to make it as lovely as the outerwear. So much fun!
Thanks Morgan for this video! As others have been saying, such great timing as I am making a Medieval sherte of my own. I have only just started sewing this year and this is my second garment apart from a very basic tunic accidentally made too large. Knowing how to cut and sew the collar is especially helpful, as well as seeing how gussets are added which assures me that I'm heading in the right direction. Hope Costume College was fun and inspiring!
thanks for the handy felled seam tip with eliminating that extra step of trimming with one side. I will hopefully remember to do this when get around to making my first shift
When I measure for the wrist, I often measure the widest part of my forearm, that way when I am doing dishes or food prep, I can push the sleeves up to keep them out of the way.
Good tip
Genius
Smart!
Good tip!
Yes!! I often have that problem with jackets!
Like come on guys I need to wash my hands! 🤦
as a guy that's attempting to learn to sew for the first time to create his own medieval garments, these videos help SO MUCH.
Please keep these up and don't be afraid to do more guy-related stuff. I'd love to learn how to sew a Chaperon.
Absolutely! My male projects often depend on what the gentleman in my life is currently wanting for his kit, but that would be a fun project one of these days!
@ShawnMacqueen I hope you post a video of your hard work when you're ready
Yes. I've had the same difficulty @ShawnMacqueen. Now I'm excited about possible menswear videos.
I may even try to combine some patterns in the future to make some form of hybrid genderneutral semi-but -also very-much-not-historically-accurate clothing though I suspect I'm getting a little a head of myself.
@@eyesofmuffin look up how to draft the basic bodice on any drafting learning channel, and then you can go from there to draw your own patterns and make your own designs. And sleeves, of course.
A general search on earlier internet may still result in: old books' images and text with wonderful history of what they were wearing and why, by many authors. Also maybe about leather, threads, cords, weaving?
My granny always had us start out with hankerchiefs to practice hand stitching and the like then make sleepshirts like you show us as wonderful first "full" projects because if you feel you've messed up anything, well, it's underwear nobody is going to see it.
#BernadetteBannerBrigade #HandFelledHemsForLife
Yes no one should be looking at our under clothes
And if they do notice bad stitching on your undies, you are legally* allowed to kick them in the teeth!
*Totally legal. Ask anyone...
My first thing I ever did on a serger was a bias satin nightshirt. Maybe not the best first project for a fairly new sewer, but it's what I wanted (it was a copy of one I already had). Finished it in a day, and felt much better about having just failed my first driving test. Still wear it 6 years later. Not perfect, but very nice!
My teacher told me, in the inside living people to. Always keeping on your toes.
“The Square Gussets” would be a good name for a band.
A square dance band :)
An all female bardcore/metal band? With bagpipe, flute lute electric lute ,electric violin, koto drum, kettle drum rock drum, rock guitar and doors style keyboards...?
Whatever type, just rock it! ❤
I made a shift using an old cotton bed sheet (and wear it to bed as my most favourite nightie!) but if think it's time to buy some actual linen and have another go at basic undergarments!
I have made two and plan to make more. They are so comfy!
I love wearing tunics to bed. Some guy asked me "what do you wear to bed?" I got really nervous and wasn't answering. " Your birthday suit?" How utterly brash, uncouth and forward can this fellow be I thought to myself. " No, I wear clothing. I just don't want to say what." "A neglige?" "Excuse me but I'm 60. Those days are looong past" Then I started laughing- what the hell... "So you really want to know what I wear to bed. Okay. I wear historically correct Medieval tunics I make myself" There was a very long pause from this inquiring, possibly new boyfriend. Then " Really? Actually I find that kinda sexy" This tale of Senior flirtation ended with figuring out this fellow was nothing more than a rogue with a roving eye. That's okay. I still find sleeping in my tunics 'kinda comfy'.lol
That's a very good idea to start, an old sheet and machine stitching. As soon as I find some time between work and children!
@@LadyPelikan definitely a good way to practice, I might have to try it too
Linen is just so soft against the body!
Efficient cutting is period!
pleasepleaseplease do a late 1400s kirtle!! I'm kind of obsessed with the 1490s right now, and it's such an interesting transitional period that it's REALLY HARD to figure out how to do it.
I've done so many early 1400s and late 1500s, I figure I really ought to fill in the gap a bit ;)
Transitional garments are the worst (and yet the most fun)!!!
Baby Quilt's
@@AndromedaCripps they're the pieces that I really want to make, but whenever I start them, I realise that there just isn't enough alcohol or tea (depending on where I'm at) in the world to keep me sane throughout the process....
@@seonaelizabethcoster8465 Haha so true!!
As someone who is fairly new to the world of sewing but especially sewing as recreation of period items, THANK YOU FOR BEING SO INCREDIBLY THOROUGH AND DETAILED.
I also have a greyhound helper and a cat that sits on what ever is about to be sewed, even if there is decoy fabric set out for him! I couldn't imagine sewing with out them!
Tania Magic Fingers my cat likes to attack the scissors while I’m cutting 😳
I'm sewing beads into a skirt for next Halloween and my cat loves attacking the beads, stealing the thread spool and just sitting on me while I work 😂
My cat also seems to work out exactly what I am going to work on next and sit right in the middle of it.... OR wait until my back is turned then come in muddy and wet and walk all over it (for extra points he will bring a frog in with him too).
Decoy fabric! Lol! Awesome idea - I will have to try with my cat! She likes to pounce on my fabric.
Hard same! My cats love to sit/stand/play with my cross stitch, sewing, oracle cards, and basically anything that I don’t need them in the middle of! 😂
This would be a great pattern for nightgowns, especially in flannel
I agree! I should make more for sleepwear 😍
Ooohhh Yaaa--- prefect for sleepwear. There's enough room to draw your knees up and be cacooned in all that fabric.
Oooooooooo, you just gave me the idea to use up all this flannel I have in my fabric stash!!! Thanks for that!!!
I literally came to comment to say I'm going to be making one to use as sleepwear - I'm not likely to want to wear full historical garb anytime soon (nor have an opportunity to) so I've been looking for things to wear everyday, and a linen shift to sleep in sounds so comfy!
I just made one from a printed flannel sheet. It is cozy like a nightgown but almost too elegant!
OH YES!!! I soo want a shift!!! I am a guy and I would totally wear one , they look so comfy.
I so rarely get flashes of inspiration that actually lead to a project, but watching your video has done that for me! I jumped up from the couch, wrote down my measurements, rummaged through my fabric stash and found some leftover linen and and cut out a shift. It's the shortest time I've ever had from inspiration to realization, since my most common speed bump is cutting anxiety, lol. Thank you so much for rebooting my muse!
How did your project come out?
You pushing your dog made me laugh way too hard 😂😂 my dogs at my parents used to do the same
Needy greyhound is needy. 😂. My sister had an Italian greyhound that was the same way.
She is such a helper 😏
My cats like to sit on the fabric 🙄 cute but uugghh
Hahah, same, our dog used to just walk all over my laid out patterns and fabric. "Whatcha dooooing?" "I can help you! Oh I know! I'll walk all over and muss up the pattern paper and lick at the pins poking everywhere!" I really had to get him out of there for his own safety! XD
Sounds like my cats. They love looking for attention and just wanted to play with the fabric
The ruler/pencil/back tracer idea was genius. As one of my music professors used to always say, "Creative people have options!"
😂
I laughed out loud when I saw your back sketching tool! I scared my cat! That’s ingenious!
When a firm, less likely to stretch rolled hem is desired... a fine cord is laid at the edge and the fabric edge is rolled around the cord.
I was taught to lick my finger and thumb, pinch the cord and roll the edge. (water would probably work)
That is an excellent tip! I'll be using that!
Do you roll it around the cord then pull the cord out? Very good tip, thank you. :)
@serendipidus1 ... in most cases the cord stays in, to support the edge... I have seen where the technique was used to make a fancy trim edge... in a delicate fabric.. the cord is laid in, rolled and left long at the ends ... then at desired increments, the weave of the fabric is wallowed open and the cord pulled out to make a loop. These picot loops can be secured with a few stitches or left loose... and even worked with crochet stitching, needle laces etc.
Very awesome, fine extra extra high quality hand work... extremely rare to see or do....
.
@@uschilou .. I did not see your comment before, most of the time it stays in. I answered more in he other reply. ..
Your explanation of Rectangular Construction methodology is great. I'm going to direct people to this video to get a good grasp of the concepts.
I spend more time on basic sewing than on projects, actually, and I think most women have through the centuries. In the 21st century, that means repairing clothes, sewing curtains & pillowcases, resizing hand-me-downs, and retailoring thrift store finds.
“there is some value in exploring the ordinary, the everyday”
why did this make me tear up 😂
"hand felling"
*alert Bernadette noises*
Yep! Lol
Lady_Sir_Knight Aha! At first I thought she said “hand felting” but no, hand felling is very different!
I am a historical reenactor that is a spinner, weaver, and dyer and I prefer to shape my pieces on the loom during weaving. To me its much simpler, esp with thicker yarns that are handspun.
I know what she is doing has something to do with stitching in, on, or around the seam, but having never seen this before, I am not sure what she is doing here. It looks very unfamiliar.
Sheila Mayer it’s basically a way of concealing seam allowances by trimming one of them then folding the wider (untrimmed) one around the other (trimmed) to encase it, then securing with a felling stitch. It gives you clean finished seams on the inside of a garment and protects seam allowances from fraying.
Salma Shalaby, thank you so much for the explanation! Very helpful!
You’re most welcome, Sheila Mayer :)
I’m completely living for those hand sewing video clips in this vid. Why is this so soothing?
Also, suuuuper appreciate the basic pattern instruction. Many thanks
Well, I am on my first vacation in 3 years ( I am a nurse) and today I decided to match my A.D.H.D with RUclips and go where ever my brain summons a peak of interest.
My late grandmother was a phenomenal seamstress , so good she did the entire town which we lived in that included the senior police force, some of the fire-dept , and other various well respected business and people in our tiny Newfoundland town.
I am the only grand child that doesn't know how to sew the tiniest bit and always envied such a magical craft. Hours of dedication and precision is nothing short of remarkable and mind blowing.
Sewing is a art that I have so much respect and awe for as I understand at the very least the hours of dedication it goes in to making different garments. I think as a rambunctious child sitting down period was hard for me to do let alone learning to sew lol. As an adult I am much more managed with my concentration to achieve such a goal.
My favourite thing in the world is learning and this video just warmed my heart and absolutely inspired met to go down the path of learning how to sew . You're so warm and inviting and your work is impeccable and you're very patient and easy to understand - AND FUN! So I thank you! due to nursing shortage I cannot travel outside of my province for vacation so I am signing myself up for a sewing with you.
I made my first shift out of a thrift store cotton bedsheet. $5 under dress! I have since made a linen one, and there is something so delightfully old-fashioned about wearing it. I feel instantly cuter, and my husband agrees!
You really helped explain a lot of the questions I have had trying to draft shifts and you made it a lot less scary looking. And the visual explanation helps me a lot
I'm 64 & one of my fav childhood memories is of Mom searching & ironing my slip before I dressed to go to school.
There is something about the smell of nice cotton & starch that takes me right back to that.
Esp as it was Winter & my slip was WARM! People didn't run their children to school.
These days, I'm a fan of linen! Huzzah for the SCA!
I have been teaching my daughter how to sew. We are also members of SCA, so her first project are T tunics. she sat down to watch with me and said that she need to watch this so she know how.
Linen smallclothes are gorgeous when all those messy edges are hemmed. (I can see why they lasted so long).
I have a beautifully simple method for men’s chemises which borrowed from landskenecht fashion.
I buy 36in linen (it exists thankfully) or muslin. Use a yard for each sleeve and 2-3 for the body (cut in half like your shift body here), stitch the selvedges together and join the shoulders parallel to the body (with large gussets of course) to finish I gather the sleeve ends and 4 yards of raw edge at the top into cuff and collar bands and it makes this beautiful, roomy ruffled shirt.
(the neck gets a hemmed slit and the cuffs have a slit made of unjoined selvedge at the end of the sleeve)
I’m not sure this style works for any men’s clothes pre 1500s though, but poofy shirts are fun.
I loved seeing your dog join you with your fabric. My cats do the same thing but mine lay down and don't move. You can' yell at hem them just want to join us and help if they can. Just love, both ways. Thank you
Inspired (to an extent) by the memory of this video, and because of the new Emma, I made my first ever piece of historical clothing (and actually my first piece of sewn clothing of any kind) a few days ago: and early 19th century shift! I'm sure its not the best - I drafted the pattern myself, machine sewed the whole thing, my seams aren't that even - but I made it! I made it for my friend because she's less curvy so I figured she might be a bit easier to fit. I really hadn't anticipated how giddily exciting it would feel to see someone wearing something that I made!
Thank you SO much for the CG visuals in this video,
And the tip to flip the gores to prevent bias to bias stretching,
And the rolled edge,
Just ..... everything.
Thank you.
The pencil in the ruler thing was brilliant - looks like a problem solver thing I'd do!
So clever!!! I live by myself so I don’t have any assistance except my greyhound Darcy. He’s essentially useless except for lounging about looking cute. I need a marking tool like this ASAP!
OMG! I've spent the last week researching medieval shifts and I was getting nowhere. I used you kirtle tutorial to help make my first ever medieval outfit for the Visby medieval week and I wanted my next proper project to be making a shift. Thank you!!! X
I have an old sheet that I would LOVE to repurpose, so this gives me an idea! My hand sewing skills are rusty, but this looks pretty easy.
Your dog coming to stand on your work made me laugh so hard! I struggle with keeping my cat off my work and out of my pins. Thanks for sharing your craft with us!
Do I have any reason, interest, material, tools or money to make a shift? - no. Am I watching this video for about the 20th time anyway, because your voice is calming and theses Tutorials are just the right amount of distraction while studiing? - Yes, absolutely
Your methods are genius! Lovely finished product! 💝👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
I just started making a kirtle (based on your pattern drafting and heraldic dress videos!) and I knew I wanted a shift to go under it, so this is perfect timing! And I look forward to more #basicgarb :D
same! I've been planning on making a kirtle and I'm so exited. I hope yours goes well.
@@emilynightingale7758 Same to you!
Im looking forward to more #basicgarb too. I also have a basic heart.
I followed her Kirtle tutorial a few years ago and despite the fact that its machine sewn in polyester it is very supportive. And I'm a big girl - I can wear it without a bra comfortably.
I love this tutorial. I need a couple more linen shifts and the way I made them years ago when I first started out with medieval clothes was a bit more complicated. I like yours best. Thanks! And I’m copying your offset seam deal too. Brilliant. I hate cutting all those seams down for felling.
I LOVE you channel! My greyhound Darcy is my assistant and he ensures his footprints are on stamped every project. Plus, he has his own handmade doggie quilts for good measure. Catherine is adorable!
I just purchased an early 19th century shift from France to use as a pattern for my own shift. It is in transit from France. I look forward to getting it soon to start my own handmade shifts from here on out. Your techniques are helping me prepare for my next project! Thank you so much for the wonderful details.
Ps: Darcy is white/brown ticking with brown brindle patches similar to Catherine! They could be litter mates!
What a good idea, to flex your elbow and upper arm when taking measurements there. Now I know why my sleeves were always too tight. Thank you.
So many techniques I have forgotten over years. Thank you for showing us how to tuck in the neck line when the fabric won't roll easily.
This is such a good video for so many reasons. I'm not planning on making a shift anytime soon but you gave so many good beginner tips that I've never heard anywhere else, and I really appreciate that.
Aww, I am so glad to hear that it's helpful!
I just want to thank you for this lovely instructive video. When your nephew reveals his plans for a viking birthday where the guests are expected to attend in costume, this becomes a really good foundational layer. :)
That’s cool! I’m planning a viking birthday party for myself this year for when I turn 40, mostly to celebrate and offset the gloom that can pounce when thinking about myself as a woman who’s turning 40 with no partner.
@@angelcollina I celebrated my 40th birthday by inviting my family (we're not a big family) to go to the local safari-park with me. And then we brought drink and sandwiches and cake and coffee. The few kids *loved* it - and even the adults had a great time. I made sure to circulate between different groups of family members as we walked around the exhibits, but it was really great because nobody had to do anything, really. I didn't have to be the host and give speeches, and nobody else had to give speeches either. We just talked, and I asked people to send me the photos they took during the day afterwards, so I didn't even have to do that. So. Much. Fun. :D
I am making a short sleeve and long sleeve shirt now. I am planning to modify this to make a cover skirt to use with a corset and a cover shift. Thanks for the directions. Your directions are the best I have seen. About to start sewing. Again thanks.
You talked about focusing on the one different thing and my eyes immediately went to that majestic sailor moon fan that you have on the wall.
They are so comfortable I use some that I made as night gowns 😁
Historically accurate! lol
Me too.
Thank you so much for this video! I'm working on my first shift and I've been constantly referencing your video for little details I'm unsure of. Literally could not have done it without you!!
I used this video years ago to make my first undershirt and I'm coming back as e refresher because I have a baby on the way and need to start on gowns for her for next spring
I also watched this about a year or so ago and came back for a refresher as I’m constructing my own dresses(fun and SCA) and a tunic for SCA
Wow I love it. I am impressed that you sewed it all by hand. I feel like trying it now. I have a nice piece of linen fabric to work with.
It's a basic undergarment, but it's beautiful in its simplicity and usefulness. Thanks for the tutorial, so easy to understand.
That was most enjoyable! ! You sitting on the sofa sewing with your dog was so sweet!!
Oh, what perfect timing. Have been looking around, reading various things about medieval shifts. And just this afternoon planned a date with a friend to go to an event.
I know what I will be watching after dinner!
OMG! This video is the most timely video ever! My first SCA event is coming up in a few weeks and I'm scrambling to get some basic garb sewn. I NEEDED this! There are a billion resources for gowns and seemingly almost nothing for smocks. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
“I have lists upon lists to look at, I have Pinterest board upon Pinterest board,” is the biggest mood.
[ *side-eyes 4/5 of my numerous Pinterest boards...* ]
Side-note: I’m about to completely hand-sew my first Renaissance shirt for Karolina’s #TheStripeyChallenge. I’ve also never self drafted a pattern. This is a HUGE help with making me less nervous about it. Those tips on measurements is a goldmine of info I would have never thought of!
This was recommended to me as both tops (I am developing sun sensitivity) and nightgowns. Came back to take notes and draw diagrams and will now go for it!!!! For the tops, I am keeping neck high, cutting a slit down center front and will edge with bias tape or something and have ties to close it.
I was also inspired to start my first limen shift using your instructions. And rolling the neck edge is so GENIUS. Thank you!
I never fail to learn from watching your videos. Thank you for making them so enjoyable.
making a medieval shift has been something i've been struggling with (even though it seems simple). thank you so much for this!! you've really helped me when it comes to my medieval garb and i honestly couldn't thank you enough. :))
As a novice sewer of things I think I can do this. I have been looking for an easy beginner project to practice on and this might just be it. Thank you for sharing!!
For marking fabrics, I have learned from a friend who works as a seamstress, that a crayola marker is a very visible and still completely washable option. Though you will need to be ok with potentially 'staining' your hands until you have a chance to wash them.
Thank you sooo much for sharing this construction video. I was literally just discussing with a friend of mine about how armscyes could be adjusted for smocks, and whether a square, triangular, or diamond gusset would work best for him. I am going to share this and hopefully it will help him with his next construction.
If Mr Donner were wanting a man's early Tudor smock, I would love to see the construction video for it... Just throwing that out for ideas. Not that you don't already have a ton of them. Hahaha.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I've been looking a good video showing period appropriate undergarments to make and wear for my first SCA event.
Bonus points for Greyhound cameo!😍
This was a fantastic tutorial - thank you! Seeing the measurements, etc from the 5 min mark was a big help. Makes me wish we could have done this as a geometry lesson in school - it's the perfect application!
Morgan, I am definitely going to make this. My mockup (probably calico) is likely to be destined to be a housedress!
Since one of 'the clothes group' explained that the chemise is to protect the clothes from sebum and shed skin and sweat, we've been looking for an example to work from.
We love your work, and finding this is fantastic.
(The 'clothes group' is you, Bernadette Banner, Abby Cox, Nicole Rudolf, and a couple of others. This tells you a lot about my taste in clothes!)
Im just starting on a handsewn shift today - I’m not really into historical costuming but I have a huge problem with sweating at night, so I wanted to sew myself a couple of linen ‘night gowns’ - and why not just do a simple shift pattern, and do it by hand ;)
And I’m TOTALLY inspired by you and Bernadette banner!!!
I get the same little needle marks in my nail polish from hand sewing. It's a lovely little secret mark so many of us bear. Great video, as usual!
Same here! I have not ventured into doing much hand sewing yet. I have a rolled presser foot that does it 😉 Now I want to try this for my hems.
You Visual Aids and explanations of simple pattern drafting is AMAZING!! I'm a seamstress and I'm gonna totally reference this to other who are learning pattern drafting! 😍
Love love love the pencil in the yard stick marking!!! Brilliant ❤ this is a great tutorial❤❤❤
Oooh the rolling thing with the neckline was new for me, thank you!
This video inspired me to start my first historical costuming project. I finished the shift last night and really enjoyed the whole process. Thanks so much for these videos :)
If you wanted to machine stitch our felled seams, you could always try a blind hem stitch, that way there is only a small tick of thread that pops to the outside surface. Best place to find this type of stitch in modern garments would be mass produced mens suit or trouser hems.
I could watch you sew all day. Wait, that’s what I did yesterday. This morning I am only watching this one while I make a pattern! Thank you!
This was perfect timing, as I’m planning my first-ever project, and a medieval shift seems like the most logical place to start. 💜💜💜
Rewatched and drafted a pattern as I listened. Seems to coming together ok. Practicing with a cheap synthetic (old curtain). Once I have the stitching - ah linen!
Ha, I love Catherine! Whenever I try to work on the floor, my dog is determined to be in my lap - she's a chihuahua, though, so easier to work around.
Amy Betts
Does she occasionally pretend she’s a pattern weight?
@@ragnkja Frequently!
Anyone else watching this 15times over to not miss anything cause they’re planning to make one themselves? Or is it just me?
I like to write out a step-by-step rundown of videos when I'm planning to follow them, so I have easy reference later. Do you do this?
I have the basic pattern instructions but I need the visual interpretation as well. Made my first one out of cotton just to practice and not happy with some aspects so I really needed this video. I want a linen shift but it’s an investment. Glad to have some instructions. Thanks 🙏
I love minimalist cutting as I shop at retrazo stores.
You are a good teacher and I also enjoy your background music. I think I'm going to try this.
Isn't good underware the best? It just makes one feel so ready to face the world. Thank you for the video.
Thank you thank you thank you! And thanks for answering the linen weight question- I’ve been actively procrastinating because I didn’t want to buy the wrong fabric and then have wasted all that hand stitching.
Love this basicgarb idea. Need more please. I'm plus size so most patterns end with adding gussets. Patterns exist but this really helped explain fitting it very well.
I can't get over the neckline marking tool. You're amazing.
Awww, lol, I am glad it's not as silly as I first thought!
(No, on second thought, it's totally silly - but silly can be useful! ;p )
Morgan, this video is incredibly well made, both clear and detailed. I’m not even planning to make a shift anytime soon and your teaching style kept me watching the whole thing
I keep coming back to this video to watch while working on my current shift. Thank you!!!
XD "Hi, Catherine" got me absolutely!
Perfect simple pattern and great tips for a beginner, I'm still not sewing myself, but more and more tempted... Thank you for this!
You are an absolute GEM! I love your videos so much, they are my happy place recently lol. You are wonderful. Please don't ever stop being YOU
I love the fact that you put your pins in your shirt! I do too! Love the flat felled seams!
Great video ! I was wondering how you could do your neckline so thin, happy to know that trick ^^ I did my shift in cotton so not really ideal to redo my neckline the same way, but I will be making a kirtle in linen soon, it will be fun to try it ^^
Gosh, this was one of the most helpful sewing videos I've ever seen!
Yay! I'm so excited for this basics series! Even though medieval/Renaissance isn't my period (I'm more 1880-1914), it's so fun to learn about history and clothing construction from earlier periods. And I can definitely see your videomaking skills growing from your previous videos! :)
Thank you! I am having a lot of fun learning video editing along with the actual project making :)
These videos always leave men wanting to make myself a smock and kirtle even though I know darn well I don't have anywhere to wear them. It just seems so comfy and practical!
I have lots of experience sewing but it's all been modern stuff. I've been wanting to get into costuming and I think this is the perfect project to get started with.
Just the video I have been wanting to see :) A few questions: What weight linen do you usually use for shifts? What type/size needle do you use for the hand sewing? Could you not leave the basting in the side seams in place until you'd done the fine stitching instead of removing it then having to pin again? Is there a reason to take it out first? Thanks again for a great video with such clear instructions. Look forward to seeing your future endeavors :)
Thank you for all the great questions Michelle!
-I used 3.5 oz linen from fabrics-store.com/fabrics/linen-fabric-IL020-bleached-light/ for this project, although I would probably want to go with a 2.8 or 2.5 oz for a heavily gathered, late 1500's shift.
-I use whichever needle jumps into my hand when I reach for one, usually something on the slightly longer side with a bigger eye, if I had my choice.
-You can totally leave the basting in! I did my basting a little too close to the line where I wanted my actual stitching to go, so I ended up needing to remove it first :/ I need to remember to baste a little further in next time!
@@louisacapell if your basting stitches show along your seam that would be a reason to take them out. If you don't care then you can leave them in. It's your choice.
@@louisacapell you don't have to explain to me.
This is a great video! I can't wait to try making a shift following your instructions.
@@MorganDonner I (and my mum) find that a smaller needle is easier on the hand and fabric esp if it is on the stiffer side.
Love the idea of your Medieval Basics series!!
Welp, for a first-time ever sewing project, I’d say I’m pretty happy with how this turned out, and it’s really cool to be able to have something like this now (Also it’s great practice for running stitches and the windy ones). Definitely a good project for a beginner!
My new persona is Ottoman so I've been making a gomlek as opposed to this kind of shift. There's a couple references and paintings where the pieces appear to all be connected with contrasting insertion stitches. Luckily I found a website that gives great instructions for decorative insertion stitches. That's been really fun to learn. So I hemmed all the pieces and stitched them together using pearl cotton so the stitching between looks like crocheted trim. It's amazing what one can do with a shift to make it as lovely as the outerwear. So much fun!
Thanks Morgan for this video! As others have been saying, such great timing as I am making a Medieval sherte of my own. I have only just started sewing this year and this is my second garment apart from a very basic tunic accidentally made too large. Knowing how to cut and sew the collar is especially helpful, as well as seeing how gussets are added which assures me that I'm heading in the right direction. Hope Costume College was fun and inspiring!
I love the music. Not only is it historically accurate to the beautiful dresses you are recreating but it’s very relaxing to listen to.
I have actual patterns for shifts but your vid got it into my head better than reading the instructions tons of times. And the rolled neck hem - yes!
Your hand stitching is beautiful
You show good techniques for fabric that I can't get more of. And I always make felled seams so my garments are durable. I enjoy your work. Thank you.
thanks for the handy felled seam tip with eliminating that extra step of trimming with one side. I will hopefully remember to do this when get around to making my first shift
not my time, not my style BUT! the way you explain patterns is FANTASTIC!