Fashion in the Age of Pirates (& making an Our Flag Means Death historically accurate cosplay)
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
- The early 18th century is a severely underrated era when it comes to menswear. Early on in the domination of the three piece suit, but hardly indicative of the business attire of the future, fashion at this time looked to excess and drama. And with the ever present popularity of pirate lore, it really should be more popular!
The Golden Age of Piracy is often cited as around 1650-1730s, but the era we know best in modern day comes just after the war ended in 1715. So many ships and sailors were left without permission to do the work they had been doing for years- raiding Spanish ships. It's the time of Calico Jack, Mary Read, Anne Bonny, Blackbeard, Stede Bonnet, and more. As of late, a few of those names have been particular popular in modern media, with Our Flag Means Death growing a massive fandom. And though the show does not in any way claim to be historically accurate (it's more like it's full of historical easter eggs?), the influence of historical fashion is obvious. So, rather than a pointless and scathing review of everything that is NOT accurate, I thought we'd all be better served to look at what inspired this show and so many other pieces of media through the years!
This week is all about the gentleman- what was worn as Fashion by the average and elite in Europe and the colonies in which the aforementioned pirates roamed. And next week, we can cover the pirate! To top it all off, this video also focuses a bit on the wrapping gown style that appears a few times in the show, with just a dash of historically accurate cosplay to end it.
www.britishmuseum.org/collection
Fabric: www.indianlacesandfabric.com/...
What I'm wearing: witchyvintage.com/collections...
Socials
Instagram: / thenicolerudolph
Twitch: / nicolerudolph
Tiktok: / nicole_rudolph
Patreon: / nicolerudolph
🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com)
00:00 The Golden Age
02:34 Tailor Makes the Man
04:44 Textiles
08:26 Shirt & Stockings
10:18 Breeches
13:02 Waistcoat
14:25 Coat
15:33 Cravat & Shoes
16:38 Wigs & Hats
18:27 Wrapping Gowns & Banyans
21:17 Patterning
23:06 Construction
29:42 Reveal 
Хобби
What I'm wearing: witchyvintage.com/collections/originals/products/pre-order-lenore-a-witchy-vintage-original
Fabric source: www.indianlacesandfabric.com/Fabric/Silk-Brocade-Fabric
Sooooo you're saying " Breeches" are the first cargo shorts?!🤔😆
So I want to see you talk about the costumes in " What we do in the shadows" 🤣
Love the calamity ware🤍💙
I would love a makeup tutorial someday, your eyes are bewitching!
What did you use for the lining?
You mentioned the breeches being absolutely covered in pockets, now I can only think of them as "Ye Olde Cargoshorts" 😅
🤣
Hahahaha 😂
Literally snorted at this ! 😃
Lol!!
.....I'm now going to tease my freinds who do American revolutionary reenactment about their George Washington cargo pants......
This pattern and design feels almost identical to some of the traditional scholar robes from China! My husband is Chinese Singaporean and we are going to a Renaissance faire, and instead of going for European style clothing, he asked if I could make a Ming Dynasty style garment/robe. He'll be playing he is visiting as a traveling scholar. The timing of this video couldn't have been more perfect!!!
good eye! the robes of Chinese courtiers were the inspiration for the wrapper gown.
OMG that’s such a good idea!
oh this is such a great idea. I love seeing different cultural interpretations at Ren Faires!!
How fabulous! So cool!
i love this so much, I'm proud of him for doing that and I'm super glad he got to have fun with it
I really love when folx dress in the time period, but non-European- It just adds to the experience. African dignitaries, Japanese nobles, bring it all!
Nichole: plans a historical cruise
Also Nichole: researches piracy
I knew Nichole was sus.
She made those villainous gloves for a reason!
Brilliant video I’d love to see one regarding womens wear in the similar time period as well.
Make elaborate pirate-gentleman dressing gown - ✅️
Strike swashbuckling pirate pose - ✅️
Crack herself up at the silliness of it all - ✅️
I love how everybody, when they saw the show, decided they needed to make the Fuchsia robe, including myself (maybe... someday). Been looking foward to this one, your videos are always such a delight! 🏴☠️🖤
Excuse me it’s called a battle jacket ;)
I want to leave a like but there's 69 and i don't want to ruin perfection
For now, I bought myself a stand-in robe until I get a proper Stede one. Never knew I needed a robe like this until I saw the show, but it's great.
That is definitely a "swanning around like a poet" type of gown, and I think I need one in my life!
the "stocking over breeches" made me think of when I was in my mid teens and suddenly every male classmate had their socks outside their jeans, and about 10-15 cm of this overlap was covered in rubber bands. the more rubber bands you had the better, preferably in different colours. it was a thing for about 2 years, and then nobody had it anymore. I still have no clue why this was a thing among them, but it was very interesting seeing all these guys in super skinny jeans, with socks pulled up to over them and covered in rubber bands. fashion is weird.
I never saw something like this, may I ask the location of this trend?
@ Stockholms suburbs, so in sweden. I know for a fact that it wasn't just my school (because friends that went to school in different parts of stockholm also had this be a trend). It was around 2008 when this was a trend somehow (at least in area I lived).
In Denmark, it was also a trend with socks over pants, though I never saw anyone adding rubber bands. Interesting!
@@Neophoia It was definitely a thing in my school (and other schools) in Dalarna in 2008-2010!! For so many years I've been wondering why and where it came from, but I still have no answers and I do not understand.
Oh and if a girl was seen in school wearing a hair tie on her wrist, the boys would gather around to beg her for it to add to their rubber band collection. I have no idea why the rubber bands were so important to them or where this trend came from, although I'm pretty sure was just a swedish thing because I've never heard of this happening anywhere else. I'm still so confused about this a decade later 😂
That's interesting. Thanks for sharing.
That dressing gown looks like a kosode to me. And a kosode is the precursor to the modern kimono and would be in use during the 17th and 18th century. Even the places where you noted the seams would be when using smaller fabrics are in the exact same places they would be on a kosode, including not having a shoulder seam and having the pattern be upside down on the back. So it seems that the dressing gowns were heavily influenced by east asian clothing.
Yep! The video I linked goes into extensive detail, but the current theory is that kimono came over with the Dutch in the early 17th c (the only country trading with them at the time). A few changes in textiles and shape as local sources started making their own version before it spread around Europe meant that there aren't any known references to Europeans realizing its source (unlike Banyan which they knew was Indian in origin and retained a name to show that). T-shaped garment are found the world over from ancient times, however, so there's a lot of blending as well.
@@NicoleRudolph see to me it looks exactly like a Turkish kaftan of the early Ottoman.
I was thinking a LOT about kosode too, especially whenever I saw the pink/red "depression robe". The tutorial certainly reminds me of the construction of a not-quite-modern kimono, as well. I love seeing where contact and trade between the east and west had far more influence on both than we usually assume.
@@neuralmute The pattern maker who did the robes (heathervanderstitch) confirmed they used a traditional kimono pattern for the depression robe! They added a box pleat behind the neck to narrow the shoulders so it doesn't really hang like a kimono, but that's why it has the separate piped short collar and the extra length in the sleeves versus a wrapping gown.
@@krypto3235 I knew that my years of studying Japanese textiles and garment construction would be useful one day! Now if I could only figure out a way to get past my lack of money, connections, and current health problems so I could parlay the knowledge into actual work... Seems that we still live in a time when only a few actually have the privilege to work with "fine things". :(
Black Bart (Bartholomew Roberts) was born in Puncheston West Wales, near my hometown in 1682 and was active 1719 to 1722. He is often credited with the articles of the ‘pirates code’. He is mentioned in Treasure Island, The Princess Bride, Pirates of the Caribbean and Assassins Creed iv. Go Wales!
He was also notable for wearing red or scarlet waistcoat and breeches
I feel like his code was more like a parent's house rules than most people think:
No gambling on board, no drinking on the deck after dark, no bringing women on board...
But there's also some worker's rights in there too:
Every man is entitled to an equal share of plunder, if they lose a limb they get given money to live off of...
@@Hanaconda_Aquaponics very civilised… for a pirate
Go Wales? He was a theiving murderer.
Nicole, the gentleman pirate!!! Something in my little lesbian heart sings when I see the lines blur between "masculine" and "feminine" styles! I love it so much, I'm going to buy fabric i need one of these in my life!!!
I'd be interested in a video about the tri-corn hat. What's it's history, the reason it came into fashion, the practical use of it
here's one from the Hat Historian: ruclips.net/video/mIGEyLJG8P4/видео.html
The Breeches at 12:01 are giving off massive Hawaiian print boardshort vibes.... It's a little concerning how much I like it 😅
Oh my goodness I thought the exact same thing. Glad I’m not the only one.
Me too 🤣
And I would totally wear them!
I did not realize until this moment that I needed an 18th century wrapping gown in my life. But I now NEED one in my life! That looks so comfortable to just lounge around in. Also - I love your teacup!
Question - when (and why) did florals start becoming such a gendered pattern? I'm guessing sometime in the 19th century but I'm not super knowledgeable about that time period (or men's fashion) but as you were talking about that it just made me ponder why that transition happened. Thank you for another great video!
Me too! I need a wrapping gown! How have I made it so far without one?
Same!
I was about to make the same comment. I'm sitting here thinking how I MUST fashion a glorious wrapping gown for myself as swiftly as possible! :D
Nicole actually has another video where she talks about a kind of corollated idea to your question (i.e., why did men's fashion become "boring")! ruclips.net/video/MKKiMNnD3iM/видео.html
@@BALTHAZAAR58 Thanks! I know I've watched that one but couldn't remember anything specifically regarding florals but I might not be remembering. :)
i need to make one of those wrapping gowns....or five...in different colors....perfect for just lounging when you don't feel like getting out of your sleeping shift
I know, I was immediately like, "I need a linen one for summer, and a wool one for the winter months, I need brocaded silk for when I need to be a bit extra, etc."
And now I want to pause everything to be a dashing gentleman pirate! Oh my goodness.... that wrapping gown!!!! I want the whole ensemble but the gown is the icing on a deliciously fashionable cake. This era needs more love, men's clothing was amazing. Even our teacups mean death!
Well, this cinches it. I have the book "Costume Close-up" from which I've made a few patterns for my complete 1770's, working woman's ensemble. (almost completed!) My 34 yr old Down Syndrome son, Derek, was looking through my book one day and found the gentleman's suit. His eyes lit up! While we're country folk who are most likely to be seen in jeans and t-shirts, Derek does love a 3-piece suit on occasions that might allow such. Now, if I tell him that PIRATES wore such suits....I will not be allowed to rest until he has his own!! Lord have mercy, he'll want the wig, too. 😂 I reckon I better start sketching and gathering fabric now!
Me: Admire the beautiful sewing and artful cinematography. My brain that fixates on stupid, irrelevant details: Okay but that looked like just hot water and not tea...
I'm currently obsessed with OFMD so I pretty much yelped when I saw the title of this video! I love it and need a wrapper stat.
My son has been talking about this show for a while. I wonder if he would want one. It looks easy enough to make. Yours is stunning by the way!
The bubble but phenomena is still around, for practical issues, today in motorcycle attire.
A thing many non riding people doesn't understand.
But as soon as you mounting a motorcycle without a bubbly behind, you understand why it exist.......to not give you a wedgy!
That has to be the perfect home/ship office outfit. I just love how delight and creativity this show has sparked in everyone and thank you especially for this extremely interesting video.
I love that despite it being quite anachronistic at times, that they really told a story with the fashion choices. It's deliberate anachronism for narrative and character reasons rather than just because they don't think a modern audience can't relate to a character if they wear bonnets. I think one of my favorite things is that Mary's wardrobe change symbolizing her newfound freedom does not involve any demonization of corsets!
Thank you for mentioning the thing about machine-knit stockings!! One of my silliest pet peeves is people assuming stockings were knit by hand. I read a great master's dissertation recently about the machine-knit stocking industry in Germantown, PA that you might enjoy!
OMG! You go, girl! I am so tired of black and more black and then some. Bring back these wonderful colors and styles! Totally enjoyed this - more so when you begin swooshing around showing off that wonderful fabric and equally wonderful clothes, wig, etc. Thanks, Nicole!
You’re such a skilled artisan and a really engaging educator. This was a really fun and interesting topic!
There was a point in time as a young kid when I was absolutely obsessed with pirates and was seriously considering it as a potential vocation (job isn't exactly the right term) after reading some books at school on women pirates (or at least pirates who society at the time deemed to be women, whether or not they considered themselves that is debatable). Like I got the basics of the obsession from the Three Pirates books which were part of the curriculum here (Roderick the Red, Benjamin the Blue, and Gregory the Green) but I was a very quick learner for reading (I was reading by the age of two so was already ahead by the time I got to primary school) and so I quickly read all the books we had to read by year 6 and got to go and pick whatever I wanted to read from the school library and after that I was allowed to bring my own books in.
Still every now and then I get the desire to just run away (from what I don't really know) and be a pirate, but like only a back in time pirate. At the very least I need a replica ship with proper masts and sails. None of this fancy smancy powered by fuel ships. Then part of me remembers that I actually like being warm and dry and I like my modern comforts. But like if someone actually came up to me (unlikely since I rarely leave the house but shh) and said they had a ship and we could go sail it and do all the fun pirating and getting expensive goods past customs thing? Yeah, I'd totally run off only to later probably regret it.
Agreed
Definitely seriously considered it more than I like to admit. Loved the Jack Sparrow books by Kidd. Collected all pirate toys from kids meals.
The teacup is EVERYTHING. ❤️
Angioletti Designs ftw
I am so obsessed with ofmd, I love the way they play with historical inaccuracies. Very exited to see your videos about it!
Super interesting video!! And I liked that mini paper version of the robe pieces you showed. That makes it so much easier to visualize and understand what’s going on!
The bizarre silks remind me of Late Antiquity and Byzantine silks. So this wrapper is basically a Turkish kaftan. LOl I love your Sabah babas. I have so many of their shoes :)
Oh!! So perfect! I only just finished the series a week ago! I promptly bought myself 'How To Read A Suit' by Lydia Edwards because I was just struck with a deep curiosity to learn more about about men's wear. The book is a good general starting point but I can't wait to dive deeper into the fashion of that time! I haven't started the video yet but I already want to say that I appreciate you talking about the topic a lot! You always know so much and your video's are such a calm and fun way to learn. Will now watch!
I just finished reading this!
Okay, one of these just got added to my sewing projects list, looks well within my skill level to achieve. Also I love that teacup.
That robe looks amazingly comfortable! And gorgeous!
This video is a fantastic reference for DMing - it tells me the things that I wish I had the time and interest to research myself when prepping a new location or NPC based on historic eras.
This is incredible. The jam-packed history, the re-creation, the humor. Love it! Thanks for another great educational video!
What a timely video. JUST last night I finished a wrapping gown I’ve been working on for over a year. I had a very large scrap of 108 inch wide cotton and dyed an old 800 thread count Egyptian cotton flat sheet for the lining. I added a ruffle at the hem, gathered lace at the elbows, piping along the center front seams and a robe style belt. I also added a little bit of detail with 12 wt. threads and even added a tag that says: hand f***ing made. 🤣🤣🤣 It only took me so long be cause me moved across the country and because I added the fussy details. It was simple to use my measurements to layout and cut the shape. Mostly straight lines and come together easily. Hardest part for me was getting a nice even hem when I don’t have a helper or dress form. I wanted a easy to wash and comfortable robe that’s also not ugly af. I’m so proud of the outcome. I really just winged it and I’m so happy it turned out. The fabric you chose is so gorgeous!
Informative and fun! Thanks, Nicole. The lining is the key to giving the wrapping gown the correct weight, so it hangs as we see it in the portraits of the period. I did have a flashback to Jerry Seinfeld in the "Puffy Shirt", LOL. I still love the pirate/highwayman inspired outfits worn by Adam Ant and his band, The Cult, Prince, and others.
The red heels on Bonnet's shoes made me gasp out loud as I was watching, it was SO flashy.
Kyromaan, your, "Ye Olde Cargoshorts" made me snort coffee out my nose.
I love this so much! Thanks for talking abt the show. The wrapping gown looks so cozy~
I am so looking forward to this series. Thank you for the level of detail in your research.
Your skull tea cup is the most Stede Bonnet pirate perfection.
I live under a rock and do not know this show, but this video was amazing, i not only need to go and watch the show but i need to watch all her other videos.
I love this. Your educational videos on fashion history are my absolute favorite!!
Thank you so much for such an in-depth video analysis. It is truly appreciated.
I am saving this to watch again. I need this in my life. You rock.
This is an absolute delight. That silk is stunning, and I am drooling over the garment itself 🤩 My friends are working on a Blackbonnet couples cosplay, so this immediately got dropped in the discord server! 💖
yes! The robe TM! omg i love the Stede expressions to go with it
I was just waiting for someone to talk about the costumes in OFMD and hell yeah you got it!
As always! So fascinating. This research is so interesting. The show did make me want my own wrapping gown too. Yay! Now I know how to do it.💜
Thanks for your content, nicole. I just love the passion, effort as well as the "low keyness" of your videos. Very pleasant.
Oh, I need a wrapping gown! Looking forward to the next video. Thank you for the inspiration!
Absolutely gorgeous, and yet so simple!!!! Love all the history. That's so much for sharing...
Wonderful!!! I loved your reveal!
I love how educational these are, it’s absolutely amazing and wonderful!
I think about this every time I watch your videos but I love that I can hear the fabric. I mean like hearing scissors cutting through it or the pulling of the thread. It’s so comforting to me I love it!
Oh wow. I love this style of clothing and your videos are always so interesting.
Thank you so much 🖤🖤🖤🖤
Awesome! Loved the discussion of bizarre silks!
I cannot put my amazement into words. This is perfect
I actually love this as a coat/jacket for daily wear 😍 Amazing job as always!!
😍 the fabric is so prettyyyyy and the whole thing looks comfy as heck
Lovely video, it was great to see you swoosh around. Looks so flash but comfy.
This was such an interesting video and made me want to learn more about pirates. Can’t wait for the continuation.
This was really interesting and informative. I love to hear about the history of clothing and especially all kinds of details that I'd almost never think of otherwise.
Absolutely loved this video! Will definitely add this to my "to do" list! You're videos are great!
How totally wonderful...you really recreated and re-created, both the look and the emotional feeling ...fabulous!!! Im definitely in need of a wrapping gown 🤗🤗
I very much enjoy your videos and the history is very interesting. Thanks for the examples of what you are talking about, they make things much clearer. Your wrapping robe is gorgeous and actually simply to make. The fabric was just perfect. I very much enjoyed the ending of this when you fell off the couch. Kudos to you
loooveee your channel 🥰🥰 very informative and interesting, have been looking for such information for quite a while
LOVE this! So fabulous!
You cutting that fabric was super satisfying, asmr-worthy.
you're AMAZINGGGG i just can't wait for the next videos of yours! thnx for being this delightful channel and plus content for ofmd ❤️
Omg the ASMR when you are working on the wrapping gown! Wonderful sounds from the scissors & fabric, even the sewing machine! 🤩
The wrapping gown looks so ridiculously magnificent! This amazing piece of fashion needs to be brought back in style! xD
Great video! This is the era that I find myself dressing up in the most. There really isnt too many videos of mens fashion of these centuries. Thank you!!
Ooo that gown came out gorgeous!
I could listen to you for hours Nicole. Thank you for the gift of knowledge, told in such a way as to captivate, relax and inspire any audience.
Oh my goodness, this video just looks divine! I cannot wait to watch it! "Do you fancy a fine fabric?" Love it.
Nicole, I adore you. I learn so much while still having SO much fun!
I have never come across your channel before, but WOW what an excellent video. As an historian myself, and someone who has done quite a bit of deep-diving into historical fashions of the early 18th century, I greatly appreciate all of the work that you put into this video, including the editing-- great stuff!
Wow. I enjoyed this immensely and learned so much. Thank you!
such a nice informative video about it! also you look so good!
The Stede wig made me cackle! Also, I finished my dressing gown last night, used some batik cotton and a middle weight linen for the lining. I’m so excited that you made this video.
Oh here it is, the video I knew I needed after watching the show weeks ago, so many big thanks for providing it. I just might do that robe, but I am more interested in the outfit we first see Stede in (and also the all white outfit because damn that's pretty).
cheers, Nicole! I've been looking forward to costumetube's take on this show since remembering that blackbeard's purple party suit would've been pre-aniline on my third (or so) watch-through. :D
This was SO delightful! Thank you so much for this wonderful video!! I've been eyeing this beautiful yellow floral silk for a while for a wrapping gown and you really inspired me to maybe finally think seriously about ordering it ! (i think it's from the same website that you got yours from)
I love this ❤️ Thank you for making such wonderful videos.
Awesome ! That pink silk whoaa ♥And the video was really fun to watch :D
This garment is amazing. Now I need to make one for me, I don't thank you xD
I love it! Gorgeous fabric choice!
Such beautiful fabrics! Wonderful robe.
Awesome content as always, I learned so much and it was fun!! Every time I watch a video I just can't believe you don't have more subscribers, your content is top tier.
Nicole your videos are immaculate, not only are you gorgeous and talented I always feel as if I am listening to a professor speak whenever you cover a topic- legit so interesting and knowledgeable. Thanks so much for becoming a youtube and entertaining plebes like me :)
Ok, I loved this video. For oh so many reasons. The Victorian Trading Company tea cup and the Calamityware teapot particularly amusing to me as I just ordered a kitchen witch jar and a tea caddy... Now I need to add a wrapping gown to my wardrobe. I look forward to the next half of this video.
OMFG I just started binging this show last night with my friends this is perfect timing
I’m so frothing-ly obsessed with this show and this was so interesting and made me so happy. ☺️
I might be doing the show-accurate velvet robe but this video is super cool and really informative! And I'm in love with the brocade fabric
So excited that it sounds like you have more OFMD videos coming
I adore pirates! The whole time of piracy just fascinates me, ever since I first saw Pirates of The Caribbean.
That leg whip to the couch ending was superb 👌
You are delightfully informative. 🥰
Wonderful. Some of the moments when I think I’m living my life wrong. I cycle everywhere and I sit on the floor (its a ‘use it or lose it’ thing), but such sumptuous gowns make me quite envious. Thanks for another lovely video!