Preparing my Airhead for the Riding Season! 1988 BMW R100RT
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- Опубликовано: 6 июл 2024
- Here's a few of the spring maintenance tasks I like to do before I start riding the bike for the season. This video covers an oil and filter change, checking and setting the valves, cleaning the float bowls, replacing the float bowl gasket, changing the inline fuel filters, lubricating the finned exhaust nuts and repairing a broken kick stand.
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Sir, an excellent video in every respect ! Your speaking tone and content/technical dialogue is really perfect....
Hello, Nice to hear a idling machine in perfect conditions - nice job.
Those inline fuel filters are pure genius. Great video!
High compliments on your relaxed and informative presentation, and excellent production...my '78 R100RS will appreciate it!
Thank you so much! There's going to be more from this bike coming soon!
Great video and great to see the R100!
Nice video thanks
Thanks!
Very nice work! So glad you rescued it!
Wow this video is a GODSEND down to the side stand mod! I have a 79 but all looks the same! Thank you
Thank you! It's really satisfying to know that you've gotten some value from the video. These bikes will last forever if properly maintained. Safe Riding!
Thank you kindly, from a 1984 R-65 owner …
Good video! I didn't learn very much as this is more or less what I do every year; but a good guide for new "Airheads" it is, and you are mostly spot on! I can't completely agree with you on all points, but most. So, well done, I say! 🙂 Thanks, and keep up the good work! Subscribed!
What a pleasant and enjoyable video, thanks
Great review and enjoyed listening and watching. I’m in a similar position: I’ve just bought a 1995 R100R with a genuine 25k miles which has also been relatively untouched for 15 years. I’ve an issue with charging and also the carbs which despite 3 ultrasonic cleaning passes, the left is still giving me a misfire. But I enjoy the bike and I’ll just continue trying to iron out the issues!
If a bike has been sitting for more than 10 years, I'm starting to think you should just replace the coil, wires, plugs and all the rubber. It seems like you will over the first two months of ownership anyway and it will save a whole lot of troubleshooting! Keep at it, the bike will reward you.
Great video! Nice narration. Soothing.
excellent video - covering the basis in good detail!
I've always gone by the saying, clappy valves are happy valves on old airheads!
Great video and thank you for uploading! Compliments for your skill in working on motor not easy....
Good Video✌🏻greats
What a informative video good stuff 👍
You forgot to put the two 10mm nuts on the valve covers????
To get the exhaust nut free use a flame to heated up. It is small and it will expand quickly. Then you can remove easily. The copper grease is a very good idea!
Great advice! I loosen, lube and tighten it every spring as part of my season opening inspection.
Very good video. I really need to get that exhaust tool... I have an '81 R65. If your side-stand keeps giving you trouble, the 'Brown Sidestand' is a really good, really simple to install alternative. I removed the BMW factory sidestand entirely because it wasn't very good.
hello Jason what a great video and advices for Airheads owners!! also you are absolutaly correst about we all should understand as much as possible about our motorcycles i am your new subscriber and i am looking foward to buy a airhead bmw one day when the right oportunity appers and they are getting harder and harder to find.. thanks for sharing
They're around, but I think people are starting to see the value in them and the prices are going up. I love mine.
@@jasonselinger i agree. thanks again for the info
Really nice video 👍- What is the great tune in the background !!
R100 getting touched by those butt-fingers. Grreat
Its a misconception that the engine needs to be at TDC to check the valve clearance. Yes you can do that but all that is truly needed is that the valve timing or valve rocker is off of the lift side of the cam (Pushrod is not under tension) or the valve is seated in the head. That occurs on two of the 4 strokes in the firing cycle. It is somewhat convenient at TDC because both intake and exhaust valves are closed (Off of the Cam Lobe).
I insert a phillips screw driver in the spark plug holeto see where the piston is sitting but you dont want to jam or force the screwdriver into the piston. You don’t need motorcycle oil in that engine and you should use synthetic motor oil because you don’t have the oil cooler installed anymore. Without the cooler you will exceed normal operating temps in the summer on the highway or in stop and go traffic. You really should put the oil cooler back on the bike. The reason you don’t need to use MC oil in the bike is because the bike doesn’t have a transmission lubricated by engine oil, you have a separate gearbox with gear oil in that box. MC oil has additives in it to prevent shear breakdown of motor oil when used in a transmission, like on a Honda or other Japanese bikes where the engine and transmissions share the same lubricant.
Because your engine is an oil / air cooled engine, it is best served with a synthetic motor oil Like a Mobil 1 15W-50. You vintage statement is not a correct assumption.
Hmm, the crankshaft should be turned 360 degrees in stead of the mentioned 180 degrees before checking valve clearance on the opposite site!
Concerning motoroil, it is important to fill 20W50
Great video sir! Love how relatively simple those airheads are! One question, wouldn’t it be better to warm up de bike and oil before changing it, keen to know why? Greets from the Netherlands
Yes, many peopled it that way and there's sound reasoning for it. I change my oil so regularly that I doubt there's much sludge in there.
My engine was very hot after just ride few kilometers, is it normal or any issues sir? Advise please! Thanks 🙏🏽
It depends the conditions. If it's a hot day, then maybe. I'd check the timing for sure, valve clearances etc. Cooler is better, always!
Interested in the benefits of removing the oil cooler?
Honestly, the bike looks better without it. I live in Canada and don't ride it very hard, so it really isn't necessary for my needs.
Dont use copper grease for aluminum. Use ceramic grease. The copper can react with the aluminum and gall the threads :(
Always change the filter.!