Hi Brook. Your extremely meticulous way of working invites those who are watching to ask themselves whether any mechanic in a BMW workshop would work in the same way. Thank you.
Eugenia, I've had the good fortune to know several long time airhead mechanics. They are all very meticulous and detail conscious. Any mistake they make costs them money and time which is not a good way to run a business.
Hey Brook , thanks so much for your detailed explanation of the process you used for this! It was a huge help for me over the last several days as I performed the same work on my '84 R100RS! My new push rod tube seals were super tight and were really hard to rotate even though I had lubed them sufficiently, but I finally got everything assembled! Thanks again!
excellent documentation of the process, thank you! It will come very handy soon since I need the replace all gaskets and sealings in my engine and transmission as well. I will keep an eye on your channel, very valuable info!
Very interesting to watch, as i have no technical education, i was allways scary, by even thinking about doing something like that yourself. These kind of movies , gives you kind of trust to start doing some maintenance for yourself
Frank, there is an adage, "It's Easy When You Know How." That's why I spent the time to document and shot video of this work as a way to encourage others to do their own work on these classic motorcycles.
Great video Brook, I have no plan to strip down my cylinders (1982RS) anytime soon, but you are creating a wonderful resource for all us airhead fans, so much better than my old Haynes and Clymer manuals !! Much appreciated!
Thank you Nigel. I have the benefit of the knowledge of several 40+ year airhead mechanics who share what they know and the $0.00 cost of web publishing which Haynes and Clymer did not have. And I have the time to spend on this "hobby" :-)
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Good stuff Brook, your instructions are thorough and easy to follow. You and William from Boxer2Valve have the best instructional videos on here. You guys give me the confidence to tackle jobs I thought were beyond my ability. I'm about to pull the head on my 82 R100, looks like a helicoil for the spark plug threads.
Thank you Brook! Really enjoy watching your videos. Very precise and detailed how to do the various steps. Makes me want to tear down my perfectly running 92 RT and replace everything. LOL. Love to find a 77 RS that needs restoring. Or better yet win the one that the MOA has for raffle. Thanks again!
I guess Im asking the wrong place but does any of you know of a method to log back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my login password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me.
@Kalel Trevor Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and im trying it out now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Hey Brook we really appreciate all your help with the airhead community. I have a quick question as this is my first time redo my engine seal. Post piston installation you rotated the piston to the correct position. Does this effect the clocking of the rings?
Good Day Brook. Thankful to find your RUclips page. I have been binge watching all day. I’m about to bring my 1980 R100RS 32,576 out of storage. I have noticed a few oil spot under the drive line and gear box. Any words of wisdom on a to do list or what to look for or at? Thank you.
I show the cylinders have a stamped "L" and "R" on the base, but this does not mean BMW made different cylinders for the left and right sides. The pistons are not sold as a left and right piston either. The Nikasil plating company stamped the cylinders and marked the pistons to ensure the correct piston was mated with the correct cylinder since they honed each cylinder to match the piston to achieve the precise clearance.
@@marcusobrien3881: I sent to Tom Cutter at rubber chicken racing garage (www.rubberchickenracinggarage.com). I provided the connecting rods, along with the pistons, rings and wrist pins as well. I had the rods remachined for correct hole center lines and length and new wrist pin bushings installed and honed to fit the new wrist pins. The 1000cc rods deform after awhile and the bushings get oblong as well over time. I hope that helps.
At 22:28 you can also put a clean towel or something in the crankshaft hole to prevent the clips from flying into it It can be extremely annoying to get them back out
What is your experience regarding engine vibrations and also engine flexibility between lower vs higher compression? Also, is there a difference in engine vibrations and low-rpm running ability between the pre-81 heavy clutch/flywheel and the 81 and later, lighter parts according to your observations?
Thanks for the video Brook. Do you recall where you acquired that ring compressor? I'm having trouble using the one I have, which is the common type with the black "leaf" and two compression bands.
Hi William, Click the link in the video description. It takes you to the detailed documentation of how I did that work. The "Tools" section has the information you need.
Hi, I noticed that your cam lobes aren't centered on the cam followers. My bike is like that as well, is that normal? It almost looks like the camshaft is pushed forward 5mm
Hi Brook. I've come here to ask 1 question. I notice at 32:29 that one side of the engine (as I look at the video I'm referring to the left) is closer to the frame tube than the other side is. I have the same asymmetrical appearing situation on my '85 R80. It's quite noticeable, and it's close enough to interrupt free movement of the clutch cable. I don't really know if it has had any effect of the rest of the engine -through - drive assembly only because I've already begun dismantling the bike from the rear. The other side of the engine however has noticably more room between it and the frame. Do you have any comments about this? Or perhaps the angle of your camera mistakenly makes it look closer on one side... ? Thanks for your advice.
Hi Kale, There are two engine mounting studs, front and rear. Each of them have a spacer between the engine block and the frame on each side of the engine block. Consequently, the engine has no freedom of movement in the frame. If one of those spacers is missing, then the engine will not be located correctly in the frame. The clutch cable routes down the right front frame tube. On the 1983, there is a groove machined into the right side of the inner timing cover to accommodate the clutch cable. Then goes underneath the cylinders above the push rod tubes and seals. It's a tight fit, but it will fit. It is secured with one tie wrap near the cross over beside the horn. I hope that helps.
What are your thoughts on the dual plug conversion? Why to do it/not do it? I currently have my heads in the machine shop for valves, so this would be the time to do it.
Back in the day dual plugs helped with lower octane unleaded fuel to prevent pinging. They improve gas mileage and if a coil fails the engine still works.
Great tuition Thankyou. I’ve done this before and it’s always “squeaky bum” time when I get to the final torque down. I can’t understand why BMW didn’t put steel inserts into the block from the inside during manufacture to take away the fear of stripping the threads. A weak spot to watch out for.
Hi Dicky, It seems to me if they used a steel bushing that was threaded on the inside, the problem to solve is to prevent it from turning and/or loosening when the engine gets hot. The coefficient of thermal expansion for aluminum is about 2x that of steel. In all honesty, if you don't over torque the cylinder stud nuts when you install the heads, the aluminum threads should last a life time.
Hey Brook, I couldn’t find any of your videos where you adjust the valves. I’ve searched the forums, repair manuals, and have found different recommendations for an 81-84 R100. Do you recommend 0.10 for intake and 0.20 for exhaust? I’m seeing both 0.10 and 0.15 for intake. Can you help solve the puzzle?
BIGGZ46, I usually initially adjust the valves on a rebuilt engine to be a bit loose: 0.15 mm Intake; 0.20 mm exhaust. After the motor is broken in and valves stay where I have adjusted them, I reset the valves to 0.10 mm intake and 0.15 exhaust. This may be why you see various values for valve clearance. Also, the /5 and /6 engines had larger valve clearances specified (0.15 mm intake, 0.20 exhaust) than the /7 and later motors. Here is a link that shows the difference valve clearances recommended by BMW. --> www-cdr.stanford.edu/~petrie/bmw/R80ST/engines.html
On this later year airhead (relatively) do you not need to pay special attention to the gap between the rocker arms and rocker blocks as you torque down the head? Do they square up better than the /5 and /6?
Hi curtisound, the rocker blocks are now machined so they align correctly with the push rod tubes and the valve stem. I point that out in the written documentation there is a link to in the introductory text under the video.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Thanks! I've read all your previous articles over the years but your recent quality videos have made me lazy on this build. Great job!
Do you recheck the head torque after running x number of miles, and around how many miles? If you get this and choose to respond, are you self taught, or did you work for a BMW company? Your style of instruction is top shelf, enough for a newcomer but not off for a mechanic. Enjoyed, and will be looking forward to seeing more, have a 75/5 that has been neglected due to being far too busy with work to get back into MC enjoyment….20+ years of sitting. Any sources of information that you would suggest would be appreciated. Thanks!
Indeed, I retorque the heads and check the valves at 100, 200 and 600 miles. I'm self taught, but had the good fortune of getting advice from experts including Tom Cutter, Bob Fleischer (aka, Snowbum), Matt Iles, Matt Parkhouse, Bud Provin and lots of other knowledgeable folks. I did a rebuild of a 1973 R75/5 and it's documented on my website: brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1973-bmw-r755-rebuild-project/
hello sir i have ask if it is possible، I have a frame Motorcycle r80 And I found an R850 bike that had an accident, but its engine is very good. I want to install an R850 engine in the frame of the R80 motorcycle. But I don't know if it is possible sir??
Very nicely done Brooks. Tell me though - when you rotated the piston to line-up for the small end and west pin, wouldn’t that change the orientation of the piston ring gaps?
Hi I have a 1974 BMW r60/6 that has a problem that nobody can solve. When I start the engine, the rev counter marks 1200rpm and after some time it starts to accelerate by itself until it reaches close to 3000rpm. This happens after 6 to 8 minutes. I wonder why? Thanks
I'd check the ignition advance unit to be sure it's not binding and keeping the ignition advanced. The other check is air leaks in the intake tubes between the carburetor and the intake port. Spray some carb cleaner around the connections and if the RPM changes, there is an air leak. (Be careful with the carb cleaner as it's flammable).
Авто/Мото
Incredibly useful thank you. Just done my 1990 RT80. You have such a clear way of showing how it's done I could listen to you all day.
David, Thank you for the kind words. All the best on your R80RT project.
Awesome. Invaluable step by step info and really well done. Absolutely riveting. Thanks!
Northernlightse, thank you. If you haven't seen it, I also made a video of removing the top end.
Hi Brook. Your extremely meticulous way of working invites those who are watching to ask themselves whether any mechanic in a BMW workshop would work in the same way. Thank you.
Eugenia, I've had the good fortune to know several long time airhead mechanics. They are all very meticulous and detail conscious. Any mistake they make costs them money and time which is not a good way to run a business.
Hey Brook , thanks so much for your detailed explanation of the process you used for this! It was a huge help for me over the last several days as I performed the same work on my '84 R100RS! My new push rod tube seals were super tight and were really hard to rotate even though I had lubed them sufficiently, but I finally got everything assembled! Thanks again!
Tim, I’m pleased this and the website documentation was useful for you. Congratulations on keeping another airhead running down the road 😊
I watched all the previous videos they were very usefull , I want to thank you so much, I believe I can do it by myself 😎
excellent documentation of the process, thank you! It will come very handy soon since I need the replace all gaskets and sealings in my engine and transmission as well. I will keep an eye on your channel, very valuable info!
last airhead: Cool beans. It's good to hear about another airhead getting some TLC :-)
Many thanks from Italy Sir.
Very interesting to watch, as i have no technical education, i was allways scary, by even thinking about doing something like that yourself.
These kind of movies , gives you kind of trust to start doing some maintenance for yourself
Frank, there is an adage, "It's Easy When You Know How." That's why I spent the time to document and shot video of this work as a way to encourage others to do their own work on these classic motorcycles.
Great video, my cylinder heads always weeped at case, even after resealing them. 1979 R100RT
Excellent set of videos, very well done!!
Thank you Kevin.
Great video Brook, I have no plan to strip down my cylinders (1982RS) anytime soon, but you are creating a wonderful resource for all us airhead fans, so much better than my old Haynes and Clymer manuals !! Much appreciated!
Thank you Nigel. I have the benefit of the knowledge of several 40+ year airhead mechanics who share what they know and the $0.00 cost of web publishing which Haynes and Clymer did not have. And I have the time to spend on this "hobby" :-)
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Good stuff Brook, your instructions are thorough and easy to follow. You and William from Boxer2Valve have the best instructional videos on here. You guys give me the confidence to tackle jobs I thought were beyond my ability. I'm about to pull the head on my 82 R100, looks like a helicoil for the spark plug threads.
Much appreciated sir! I corrected this after installing the rings in the wrong position.
Saitama, I'm pleased this helped you out on your project. 🙂
Excellent video, I’m just about to do this on my ’79 R80/7
Best of success 😊
Excellently explained. Brilliant.
Thank you Patrick. 🙂
Thank you Brook! Really enjoy watching your videos. Very precise and detailed how to do the various steps. Makes me want to tear down my perfectly running 92 RT and replace everything. LOL. Love to find a 77 RS that needs restoring. Or better yet win the one that the MOA has for raffle. Thanks again!
Mike, Cool beans. Yes, go find another airhead that needs some TLC :-) Sadly, the MOA 77 RS is already restored, so you only get to ride it. :-) :-)
I guess Im asking the wrong place but does any of you know of a method to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my login password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me.
@Kingsley Orion instablaster :)
@Kalel Trevor Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and im trying it out now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Kalel Trevor It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much you really help me out !
Very clearly explained - many thanks for sharing
Thank you Mark.
Great Video, just about to do the same job on my R80 thanks Brook
Greg, Best of success on your project. I'm glad this documentation and the video are helpful to you.
very relaxing
Great videos! I always thought that arrows on pistons points to exhoust
That's true as the exhaust is at the front of the cylinder.
Great step by step how too, even a simple mind like mine could understand it
Sam, I'm pleased this is useful for you. Best of success on your project.
Hey Brook we really appreciate all your help with the airhead community. I have a quick question as this is my first time redo my engine seal. Post piston installation you rotated the piston to the correct position. Does this effect the clocking of the rings?
Good Day Brook. Thankful to find your RUclips page. I have been binge watching all day. I’m about to bring my 1980 R100RS 32,576 out of storage. I have noticed a few oil spot under the drive line and gear box. Any words of wisdom on a to do list or what to look for or at? Thank you.
I show the cylinders have a stamped "L" and "R" on the base, but this does not mean BMW made different cylinders for the left and right sides. The pistons are not sold as a left and right piston either. The Nikasil plating company stamped the cylinders and marked the pistons to ensure the correct piston was mated with the correct cylinder since they honed each cylinder to match the piston to achieve the precise clearance.
What company did you use for the Nikasil plating please Brook?
@@marcusobrien3881: I sent to Tom Cutter at rubber chicken racing garage (www.rubberchickenracinggarage.com). I provided the connecting rods, along with the pistons, rings and wrist pins as well. I had the rods remachined for correct hole center lines and length and new wrist pin bushings installed and honed to fit the new wrist pins. The 1000cc rods deform after awhile and the bushings get oblong as well over time. I hope that helps.
At 22:28 you can also put a clean towel or something in the crankshaft hole to prevent the clips from flying into it
It can be extremely annoying to get them back out
What is your experience regarding engine vibrations and also engine flexibility between lower vs higher compression? Also, is there a difference in engine vibrations and low-rpm running ability between the pre-81 heavy clutch/flywheel and the 81 and later, lighter parts according to your observations?
Thanks, thanks an other time!!
You're welcome Jordi.
Thanks for the video Brook. Do you recall where you acquired that ring compressor? I'm having trouble using the one I have, which is the common type with the black "leaf" and two compression bands.
Hi William, Click the link in the video description. It takes you to the detailed documentation of how I did that work. The "Tools" section has the information you need.
Hi, I noticed that your cam lobes aren't centered on the cam followers. My bike is like that as well, is that normal? It almost looks like the camshaft is pushed forward 5mm
Hi Brook. I've come here to ask 1 question. I notice at 32:29 that one side of the engine (as I look at the video I'm referring to the left) is closer to the frame tube than the other side is. I have the same asymmetrical appearing situation on my '85 R80. It's quite noticeable, and it's close enough to interrupt free movement of the clutch cable. I don't really know if it has had any effect of the rest of the engine -through - drive assembly only because I've already begun dismantling the bike from the rear. The other side of the engine however has noticably more room between it and the frame. Do you have any comments about this? Or perhaps the angle of your camera mistakenly makes it look closer on one side... ? Thanks for your advice.
Hi Kale, There are two engine mounting studs, front and rear. Each of them have a spacer between the engine block and the frame on each side of the engine block. Consequently, the engine has no freedom of movement in the frame. If one of those spacers is missing, then the engine will not be located correctly in the frame.
The clutch cable routes down the right front frame tube. On the 1983, there is a groove machined into the right side of the inner timing cover to accommodate the clutch cable. Then goes underneath the cylinders above the push rod tubes and seals. It's a tight fit, but it will fit. It is secured with one tie wrap near the cross over beside the horn.
I hope that helps.
22:29 -- I wonder how many times that has happened!!! :-)
What are your thoughts on the dual plug conversion? Why to do it/not do it? I currently have my heads in the machine shop for valves, so this would be the time to do it.
Back in the day dual plugs helped with lower octane unleaded fuel to prevent pinging. They improve gas mileage and if a coil fails the engine still works.
Great tuition Thankyou. I’ve done this before and it’s always “squeaky bum” time when I get to the final torque down. I can’t understand why BMW didn’t put steel inserts into the block from the inside during manufacture to take away the fear of stripping the threads. A weak spot to watch out for.
Hi Dicky,
It seems to me if they used a steel bushing that was threaded on the inside, the problem to solve is to prevent it from turning and/or loosening when the engine gets hot. The coefficient of thermal expansion for aluminum is about 2x that of steel. In all honesty, if you don't over torque the cylinder stud nuts when you install the heads, the aluminum threads should last a life time.
Hey Brook, I couldn’t find any of your videos where you adjust the valves. I’ve searched the forums, repair manuals, and have found different recommendations for an 81-84 R100. Do you recommend 0.10 for intake and 0.20 for exhaust? I’m seeing both 0.10 and 0.15 for intake. Can you help solve the puzzle?
BIGGZ46, I usually initially adjust the valves on a rebuilt engine to be a bit loose: 0.15 mm Intake; 0.20 mm exhaust. After the motor is broken in and valves stay where I have adjusted them, I reset the valves to 0.10 mm intake and 0.15 exhaust. This may be why you see various values for valve clearance.
Also, the /5 and /6 engines had larger valve clearances specified (0.15 mm intake, 0.20 exhaust) than the /7 and later motors. Here is a link that shows the difference valve clearances recommended by BMW.
--> www-cdr.stanford.edu/~petrie/bmw/R80ST/engines.html
3:30 3:34 3:36 3:37 esta moto es unica RS 100 GS 120 R 18 BMW en mundo.
On this later year airhead (relatively) do you not need to pay special attention to the gap between the rocker arms and rocker blocks as you torque down the head? Do they square up better than the /5 and /6?
Hi curtisound, the rocker blocks are now machined so they align correctly with the push rod tubes and the valve stem. I point that out in the written documentation there is a link to in the introductory text under the video.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Thanks! I've read all your previous articles over the years but your recent quality videos have made me lazy on this build. Great job!
Do you recheck the head torque after running x number of miles, and around how many miles? If you get this and choose to respond, are you self taught, or did you work for a BMW company? Your style of instruction is top shelf, enough for a newcomer but not off for a mechanic. Enjoyed, and will be looking forward to seeing more, have a 75/5 that has been neglected due to being far too busy with work to get back into MC enjoyment….20+ years of sitting. Any sources of information that you would suggest would be appreciated. Thanks!
Indeed, I retorque the heads and check the valves at 100, 200 and 600 miles. I'm self taught, but had the good fortune of getting advice from experts including Tom Cutter, Bob Fleischer (aka, Snowbum), Matt Iles, Matt Parkhouse, Bud Provin and lots of other knowledgeable folks. I did a rebuild of a 1973 R75/5 and it's documented on my website: brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1973-bmw-r755-rebuild-project/
Good morning sir how tow converted the foot lbes to the Newtown
No ring gap check or was that done when they plated and honed the cylinder?
Correct.
hello sir i have ask if it is possible، I have a frame Motorcycle r80 And I found an R850 bike that had an accident, but its engine is very good. I want to install an R850 engine in the frame of the R80 motorcycle. But I don't know if it is possible sir??
SakaDZ I have no idea if it will fit.
Very nicely done Brooks. Tell me though - when you rotated the piston to line-up for the small end and west pin, wouldn’t that change the orientation of the piston ring gaps?
Peter, no since they are compressed by the cylinder wall into the groove, the friction in the ring groove is high enough that the rings stay put.
🏁🇮🇲
Hi I have a 1974 BMW r60/6 that has a problem that nobody can solve. When I start the engine, the rev counter marks 1200rpm and after some time it starts to accelerate by itself until it reaches close to 3000rpm. This happens after 6 to 8 minutes. I wonder why? Thanks
I'd check the ignition advance unit to be sure it's not binding and keeping the ignition advanced.
The other check is air leaks in the intake tubes between the carburetor and the intake port. Spray some carb cleaner around the connections and if the RPM changes, there is an air leak. (Be careful with the carb cleaner as it's flammable).
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Hi, thanks for the precious tip, I will take this test.Best wishes
From Japan Good video! Subscribe to the channel. I bought the 82 model RS 4 days ago. Refer to the restore.
Hi Imu, Nice to hear another RS will have a good home. Welcome to the airhead brotherhood. :-)