Hands down the most complete, direct, broad and entertaining crawler reviews ever!! I watched a lot and feel confident saying it. You guys are killing it. Just my two cents. And thank you for the content.
TRX4 Blazer here. Got a 25kg annimos servo, Traxxas light kit, Hobbywing 1080 esc, and brass outer portal covers. Simple but effective! Stock tires leave a lot to be desired for rock crawling, but I love the way the rims center caps look. Doesn't crawl nearly as good as my Gen 8 Scout with the Proline Hyrax G8.
I totally agree that, good (weighted) tires & a capable steering servo are some of the first things that can help someone improve performance & reliability in their crawler. After that, you can replace as it breaks, or upgrade as your skill level requires. I also agree that, the necessity for certain upgrades depends on which model you're dealing with. I'd also add that, the esc is a great way to gain modulation, but depending on the model, an adjustable transmitter could also help, or a decent motor. It's always tricky to balance needs, wants, and budget. Nice work...now give us another shootout! Lol
I think the next limiting factor is link geometry, and unless you're all brushed up on anti-dive and anti-squat you're going to want options so you can change things around and experiment. Years ago I bought a used Axial Scorpion with a ton of mods, the coolest mod by far was a plate screwed to the top of each axle with many different mounting holes for the top links. Without understanding anything about link geometry I was able to find a setup that eliminated torque twist completely, and gave the front end some impressive bite.
Woah, that's pretty high level. We've been playing with some 3d printed parts from that big online store with pretty good results. Gotta really test a lot though in consistent areas to determine.
@@RCReviewChannel I agree, it is high level but with optional mount locations anybody can switch the links from one spot to another and try it out for a battery or two and then try a different set of holes and know right away if one is better or worse. I still don't fully understand all of those geometry options but with trial and error I can get a rig setup to where I have no complaints with the handling at all.
Trx4. Servo and horn! My servo lasted two batteries! Two stage tire inserts. Steel wheels w/tires. Front bumper, delete rear. Softer springs and lighter shock oil. Two 1400mah batteries, one iin front and one in the stock tray w/parallel Y harness. Machined ring n pinion, stock in front, underdrive in rear. 96g porthole covers in front.
Which ever one breaks first. Squeaky wheel gets the grease... ESC is a top 3 for sure. I am pleased as punch with the 1080. For me ESC, motor and battery would be my first wanted upgrades, with servo being that variable in there somewhere. Probably taking out the 3rd place spot... for now.
I have a element enduro and the first thing I upgraded was the tires and wheels..hyrax g8 and rc4wd aluminum beadlock wheels..second was the servo..protek black label has 600oz inches of torque..third was brass and aluminum pieces..aluminum servo plate,shock towers and rear bumper eliminator..brass front knuckles and rear wheel weights,hexes and lower shock spring cups..added over 10oz of unsprung weight..made a tremendous difference in performance!..also flysky gt3c transmitter and receiver..traxxas trx4 motor..element rc utility bed kit..vanquish steering horn..reefs rc steel sliders..I'm debating on flipping the transmission and motor to the rear?
I tend to buy used vehicles so I usually find something that someone has already upgraded shocks, ESC, wheels and tires. Sometimes you get a used vehicle with a good servo already on it, Then with the money you save and important things already taken care of, you can go after other upgrades like gearing, motors or one of my new favorites, stainless hardware
I totally agree with you ! In our group of 11 models (Traxxas TRX4, Axial, Carisma Coyote, FTX and a chassis buyed from Amazon at 120€ really good) we like more rock crawling especially in mountain paths made for escalators. The first for all is TIRES, obviously when the stock servo doesn't break (except 3 all the others have been broken after few ours). Tires with wet and mood are really the first thing ! We also got very good results by cutting some parts of the tires to get better grip, in this way some cheap tires become quite good (even Axial Blazer stock tires become really better and usable!)
As you have said before about the excellent Hobbywing 1080 ESC, one has to check that both the servo(s) and receiver are able to handle being powered by 7.4 volts before using that setting on the ESC. But, even when one cannot use the 7.4 volt setting, the other available settings of this ESC are still very useful towards improving driveablity of an RTR.
The things on this list are reasons I opt for kits or assembled rollers whenever possible and spend a bit more on better electronics while hopefully saving money on the kit. When I bought my SCX10 Honcho Kit it was one of the first run of kits but I believe the RTR came with the same tires and wheels they were proline Flat Iron’s with Axial bead lock wheels in a 1.9 rim & 4.22 size tire I’m still running those tires and wheels on one of my other trucks at the time literally no better tires in 1.9 😂
Great video, thanks. I’m not sure I’d start with tires even though it sounds sexier and it does depend on the RTR you have. Upgrading to a better servo and aluminum servo horn first goes a long way in making a useful upgrade and prepares a truck for the better sticky tires.
@@RCReviewChannel Spot on. What most people forget about is the Driver Mod. They go to town modifying a vehicle very early in ownership (applies to full sized vehicles as well) to enable the vehicle to perform some amazing feats but fail to grow their skills at the same rate. Call it seat time or controller time in this case but it needs to be said that one should grow their skills to become a better driver than to mask lesser skills with a very capable vehicle. If one can drive a run-of-the-mill RTR or lower class RC really well, the moment they start upgrading they will realize an exponential increase in their abilities.
On my TRX-4 Sport Servo, 1080 Esc, then SSD wheels and Hyrax tyres. You have then one very capable crawler. I sold the stock electronics and wheels/tyres which paid for 70% of the upgraded items above. There is nothing wrong with the stock electronics but you can get better ones for less than you think.
I do not know why you said the ESC on the element is "atrotious". If it has anything to do with the very sensitive reverse when using the radio then that is the radio's fault. The radio is a 30/70 (or something like that) radio and cannot be changed. All you have to do is change the radio and receiver, which I have done, and it fixes the problem. The electronics in the Element are amazing and even better for an RTR, in my limited experience. I did have to change the servo are about 2 weeks but I chalk that up to the course that I run on. The tires get bound up and stuck a lot. So I could not call the servo bad.
My first upgrade on my redcat gen 8 was tire foam, then my servo and radio system. but I do agree the 1080 would have been a good way to go! Probably my favorite esc, but I use some 1060's also because they work well and are very cheap. on my scx10 2 I got the 20kg servo first, but I changed to better tires out of the box! lol
Foam is good on the Gen 8 because the stock is seriously flawed. At least they offered beadlocks to allow a low-cost foam upgrade. The transmitter, ESC and motor of the Gen8 combine to give really awful modulation. The 1080 esc can fix most of it.
Foam is the hidden secret. Gotta match that with the body weight to unlock performance. Cool when companies spec beadlocks so foam can be changed cheaply.
On the ESC... Redcat surprises me. Hobbywing MAKES their ESC! The low turn Motor on their Crawlers doesn't help low speed modulation either... I completely agree with your list - and that it varies with which Rig you buy! Carmine ✈🚂🚙
On my TRX-4 defender I went with Savox 1210SG first, followed by Pro-Line Hyrax on Pro-Line Denali bead-locs. The next upgrade will be a Hobbywing 1080 ESC.
RC Review, that will be another future mod adding the 150g SSD brass portal covers to the front and a lighter set to the back. I want to keep all the extra weight to the unsprung areas. Was also thinking of of a Holmes Hobby Crawl Master Sport 550 motor.
if we are talking crawling, for brushless, best is Castle Mamba X. This ESC have 2 very good things: Thats software support and configurations with Castle Link and AUX wire for on the fly changing. (need free channel on transmitter). Second/Third оптион brushless ESC is one of the Tekin models (they dont have AUX wire and are more expensive) but top quality performance. Second/Third option Hobbywing AXE ESC and motor combo. full waterproof and very impressive. That info is personally tested :) Hope this helps.
And this is the reason why I never buy an RTR. You'll spend half of RTR price only for basic upgrades. Building from scratch or from Kit is the only way 😉
Hands down the most complete, direct, broad and entertaining crawler reviews ever!! I watched a lot and feel confident saying it. You guys are killing it. Just my two cents. And thank you for the content.
Thank your for that. We try to infect others with our enthusiasm and impart a little bit of insight to help others.
TRX4 Blazer here. Got a 25kg annimos servo, Traxxas light kit, Hobbywing 1080 esc, and brass outer portal covers. Simple but effective! Stock tires leave a lot to be desired for rock crawling, but I love the way the rims center caps look. Doesn't crawl nearly as good as my Gen 8 Scout with the Proline Hyrax G8.
I totally agree that, good (weighted) tires & a capable steering servo are some of the first things that can help someone improve performance & reliability in their crawler. After that, you can replace as it breaks, or upgrade as your skill level requires. I also agree that, the necessity for certain upgrades depends on which model you're dealing with. I'd also add that, the esc is a great way to gain modulation, but depending on the model, an adjustable transmitter could also help, or a decent motor. It's always tricky to balance needs, wants, and budget. Nice work...now give us another shootout! Lol
Yes, sir! I made each of these upgrades to my Redcat Gen8 based on early videos and he was 100% right on. Huge improvements all around.
Appreciate the first hand info
2:27 "depending on how bad your stock Traxx.. your stock servo is" :D :D
I think the next limiting factor is link geometry, and unless you're all brushed up on anti-dive and anti-squat you're going to want options so you can change things around and experiment. Years ago I bought a used Axial Scorpion with a ton of mods, the coolest mod by far was a plate screwed to the top of each axle with many different mounting holes for the top links. Without understanding anything about link geometry I was able to find a setup that eliminated torque twist completely, and gave the front end some impressive bite.
Woah, that's pretty high level. We've been playing with some 3d printed parts from that big online store with pretty good results. Gotta really test a lot though in consistent areas to determine.
@@RCReviewChannel I agree, it is high level but with optional mount locations anybody can switch the links from one spot to another and try it out for a battery or two and then try a different set of holes and know right away if one is better or worse. I still don't fully understand all of those geometry options but with trial and error I can get a rig setup to where I have no complaints with the handling at all.
Trx4. Servo and horn!
My servo lasted two batteries!
Two stage tire inserts.
Steel wheels w/tires.
Front bumper, delete rear.
Softer springs and lighter shock oil.
Two 1400mah batteries, one iin front and one in the stock tray w/parallel Y harness.
Machined ring n pinion, stock in front, underdrive in rear.
96g porthole covers in front.
And the other rule is... fix what breaks first.
Which ever one breaks first. Squeaky wheel gets the grease...
ESC is a top 3 for sure. I am pleased as punch with the 1080.
For me ESC, motor and battery would be my first wanted upgrades, with servo being that variable in there somewhere. Probably taking out the 3rd place spot... for now.
So far, I upgraded tires, rims, shocks, shock mounts, motor, servo, driveshafts, body, links, axle weights, changed chassis layout and trimmed many pieces.
I have a element enduro and the first thing I upgraded was the tires and wheels..hyrax g8 and rc4wd aluminum beadlock wheels..second was the servo..protek black label has 600oz inches of torque..third was brass and aluminum pieces..aluminum servo plate,shock towers and rear bumper eliminator..brass front knuckles and rear wheel weights,hexes and lower shock spring cups..added over 10oz of unsprung weight..made a tremendous difference in performance!..also flysky gt3c transmitter and receiver..traxxas trx4 motor..element rc utility bed kit..vanquish steering horn..reefs rc steel sliders..I'm debating on flipping the transmission and motor to the rear?
I tend to buy used vehicles so I usually find something that someone has already upgraded shocks, ESC, wheels and tires. Sometimes you get a used vehicle with a good servo already on it, Then with the money you save and important things already taken care of, you can go after other upgrades like gearing, motors or one of my new favorites, stainless hardware
I totally agree with you !
In our group of 11 models (Traxxas TRX4, Axial, Carisma Coyote, FTX and a chassis buyed from Amazon at 120€ really good) we like more rock crawling especially in mountain paths made for escalators.
The first for all is TIRES, obviously when the stock servo doesn't break (except 3 all the others have been broken after few ours).
Tires with wet and mood are really the first thing !
We also got very good results by cutting some parts of the tires to get better grip, in this way some cheap tires become quite good (even Axial Blazer stock tires become really better and usable!)
As you have said before about the excellent Hobbywing 1080 ESC, one has to check that both the servo(s) and receiver are able to handle being powered by 7.4 volts before using that setting on the ESC. But, even when one cannot use the 7.4 volt setting, the other available settings of this ESC are still very useful towards improving driveablity of an RTR.
Exactly Hobbywing and Annimos KG20 is a great combo because it is $50. Really doesn't work only on the TRX-4 fancy models with 3 tiny servos.
The things on this list are reasons I opt for kits or assembled rollers whenever possible and spend a bit more on better electronics while hopefully saving money on the kit.
When I bought my SCX10 Honcho Kit it was one of the first run of kits but I believe the RTR came with the same tires and wheels they were proline Flat Iron’s with Axial bead lock wheels in a 1.9 rim & 4.22 size tire I’m still running those tires and wheels on one of my other trucks at the time literally no better tires in 1.9 😂
Great video, thanks.
I’m not sure I’d start with tires even though it sounds sexier and it does depend on the RTR you have. Upgrading to a better servo and aluminum servo horn first goes a long way in making a useful upgrade and prepares a truck for the better sticky tires.
Agreed! And given the price of tires, it's good learn OEM ones first and really get the technique and modulation dialed.
@@RCReviewChannel Spot on. What most people forget about is the Driver Mod. They go to town modifying a vehicle very early in ownership (applies to full sized vehicles as well) to enable the vehicle to perform some amazing feats but fail to grow their skills at the same rate. Call it seat time or controller time in this case but it needs to be said that one should grow their skills to become a better driver than to mask lesser skills with a very capable vehicle. If one can drive a run-of-the-mill RTR or lower class RC really well, the moment they start upgrading they will realize an exponential increase in their abilities.
my first upgrade backsteering / led to the axels
Awesome tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😊
Regrading the esc i don't agree ,axial's and Traxxas are great esc's work great. I am still running stock escs for a couple of years now.
On my TRX-4 Sport Servo, 1080 Esc, then SSD wheels and Hyrax tyres. You have then one very capable crawler. I sold the stock electronics and wheels/tyres which paid for 70% of the upgraded items above. There is nothing wrong with the stock electronics but you can get better ones for less than you think.
That is exactly the way to do it!!!!
I do not know why you said the ESC on the element is "atrotious". If it has anything to do with the very sensitive reverse when using the radio then that is the radio's fault. The radio is a 30/70 (or something like that) radio and cannot be changed. All you have to do is change the radio and receiver, which I have done, and it fixes the problem. The electronics in the Element are amazing and even better for an RTR, in my limited experience. I did have to change the servo are about 2 weeks but I chalk that up to the course that I run on. The tires get bound up and stuck a lot. So I could not call the servo bad.
My first upgrade on my redcat gen 8 was tire foam, then my servo and radio system. but I do agree the 1080 would have been a good way to go! Probably my favorite esc, but I use some 1060's also because they work well and are very cheap. on my scx10 2 I got the 20kg servo first, but I changed to better tires out of the box! lol
Foam is good on the Gen 8 because the stock is seriously flawed. At least they offered beadlocks to allow a low-cost foam upgrade.
The transmitter, ESC and motor of the Gen8 combine to give really awful modulation. The 1080 esc can fix most of it.
Redcat gen 8. Tires foams rims servo first. Then a right after HH motor and HW1080 esc
Foam is the hidden secret. Gotta match that with the body weight to unlock performance. Cool when companies spec beadlocks so foam can be changed cheaply.
Tires
Steering servo
Axle weights
On my trx 6 so far I've added weight to the front axle and upgraded the steering servo. Next will probably be the hobbywing ESC.
The ESC will provide a massive difference on that. Braking and control is key to unlocking it.
I’m gonna have to agree with this granting you should choose the Top3 upgrades. The others are already branching out of those 3. IMHO of course.
Exactly right! Do these three mods and branch out on the area that gives you the most fun and results.
On the ESC... Redcat surprises me. Hobbywing MAKES their ESC!
The low turn Motor on their Crawlers doesn't help low speed modulation either...
I completely agree with your list - and that it varies with which Rig you buy!
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Lots to think about. Thanks for this review!
I run the HW BL AXE Combo in all my crawlers
On my TRX-4 defender I went with Savox 1210SG first, followed by Pro-Line Hyrax on Pro-Line Denali bead-locs. The next upgrade will be a Hobbywing 1080 ESC.
Nice!!!! That is our setup and how we started. We tried a lot of bodies too but mostly run the Defender body with a lot of mods. to lower CG.
RC Review, that will be another future mod adding the 150g SSD brass portal covers to the front and a lighter set to the back. I want to keep all the extra weight to the unsprung areas. Was also thinking of of a Holmes Hobby Crawl Master Sport 550 motor.
Trx6 vs Axial 6x6 where is the comparison video?
Our Axial is broken but warranty sent us all the parts so coming soon.
What broke on the Axial
If hobbywing 1080 best for brushed, what is the best esc for brushless?
if we are talking crawling, for brushless, best is Castle Mamba X. This ESC have 2 very good things: Thats software support and configurations with Castle Link and AUX wire for on the fly changing. (need free channel on transmitter).
Second/Third оптион brushless ESC is one of the Tekin models (they dont have AUX wire and are more expensive) but top quality performance.
Second/Third option Hobbywing AXE ESC and motor combo. full waterproof and very impressive.
That info is personally tested :)
Hope this helps.
I would put the servo first.
I feel tires are the best first upgrade for the most satisfaction instantly steal beadlockers with pit bulls.
And another 👍 from here.
appreciate it!!
Best only buy a chasis kit, and electronics apart.
I have a redcat gen 8 and was wondering if I wanted to change the esc would I need to change anything else for it to work out
Will the traxxas radio work with these other ESCs though
Yh
Should i just take out my foams of my tires
No
Please answer...
DO I need 180 * or 240 *servo for redcat Everest 10 ?
180nm of torque is good for that small vehicle. 240 will help if you get jammed in rocks a lot.
👍
Your latest video is private?
Had to redo it. Editing error
👍👍👍
And this is the reason why I never buy an RTR. You'll spend half of RTR price only for basic upgrades. Building from scratch or from Kit is the only way 😉
Choice is good. The TRX4 Sport RTR though is so capable!
Upgrade to a kit..🤣