Thanks for another excellent video! Loved that early reinforcement (0:40) of thinking ahead about holding the piece for additional machining processes.
When I was 5 or 6 years old I noticed the teeth on one of my dad's hand saws, the only kind he had back then, were bent. One this way and the next the other way and so on. Luckily I asked before I straightened them out for him.
Another nice job, I have to say I like watching ALL of your interesting videos....and yes, I love the rambling too, it makes the complete package for me. Keep up the good work!!!
I recently picked up an old dividing head, and need to perform the same job. I haven't gotten around to it yet but this gives me some idea of the job at hand
Thanks for doing this video. Im in the same situation with fitting a face plate to my Cincinnati dividing head, but mine is the size up from yours. It need a small crane to put it into place. I might do a video similar to yours. solving the same problem a different way. Keep up the great work, and don't let the trolls ruin your day. Dale d
I also can be very messy regarding fixing things and i tend to get my hands all black and oily. First i clean my hands with soap and water and dry them, then a take 1 - 2 teaspoon of vaseline and rub them on my hands maybe for a minute or two, let the vaseline heat up in the palm of my hands, then i clean them with soap and water again, the vaseline has taken most of the oils and soot off the hands...
I love a project, even if it isn't mine. I was holding my breath about that counterbore, I'd hate to see you try to use some body filler to fix it (thinking of the original casting with hidden body filler).
Thanks Mr. Pete. I appreciate all of your work, and have learned a great deal from you. By coincidence I just finished a backing plate project today for a new four jaw chuck for my new lathe. I was wondering how I was going to transfer the holes from the back of the new chuck (4 of them) to the plate. Since I had watched most of your previous videos I was thinking about getting a set of transfer screws, and I went so far as to look up sets on several web sites, but I wanted to finish the job today, so I came up with the following solution: My lathe spindle has a three bolt mounting pattern, so I bored the three spindle bolt holes in the plate using my mini mill (which has a cheap DRO set up). This worked fine since I had not trued up the plate to the spindle yet, and just had to get the three holes spaced properly and reasonably centered on the plate. Then I mounted it to the spindle and faced, turned, and bored the plate much as you did, including the locating step, which was coincidently 5.115" in diameter also. This is for a 6" Chinese chuck, so maybe that's some kind of standard. I couldn't use the DRO for the chuck mounting bolts since the pattern was outside of my mini mill table's movement limits. I then removed the jaws from the new chuck, and mounted it face down on the mill table using the vacant jaw slots for clamping in order to leave the chuck's back completely free . I centered one of the four mounting holes on the back of the chuck under the mill spindle, placed the plate on the chuck, and, holding the plate by hand, drilled my first hole ( it was really held in place by the locating step). I used the full size drill bit and made the hole in a single pass. I took it easy to make sure once I drilled through the plate I wouldn't mess up the threaded hole below it in the chuck. All I had to do after that was rotate the just drilled hole into alignment with another hole on the back of the chuck, put a mounting bolt in to hold it in place (with each new hole I would add another bolt), and drill the next hole. This way I never had to move the table, or do any layout or measuring, just rotate the plate on the chuck using the locating step as the pivot. I counter bored the four holes using an end mill in the same set up, using the same indexing method, again without having to move the table. It worked out great, and I was making parts with my new four jaw chuck by this afternoon. Thanks again for the videos.
Great video. Looks like it will be very handy. After the last engine video I decided to make my own flywheel mold and have now finished it. It is pretty much a copy of the mrpete version. Thanks for the video.
Your Allen Wrench story reminded me of a sea story. A Navy chief I once knew had a coffee cup that he was very proud of and which hadn't been washed in years (the inside looked like the inside of an old steam pipe - He claimed it improved the flavor of the coffee). Someone told a new recruit that to impress the chief he should wash his cup. I'll let you guess at the outcome. Jack
Great video. Got a Dividing head recently and i either need to find a chuck to fit my back plate which seems quite problematic or make a new back plate (worst is when you go to look/pick something up and you immediately feel like your getting taken for a ride cause the person who's there has no clue about even talking about or think things are worth 2nd hand more than you can buy good quaility new). Thanks, always seem to end up back at your videos for one reason or antoher
Hi mrpete, to get the graphite off your hands, just do the dishes after a good "ham & eggs" breakfast, look at your wife's hands and I'm sure they're very clean... LOL Great basic teach on adapting a back plate, that went smooth, I've got one that was a little more problematic that you can see on my channel... Some kind of a thriller. Thanks for sharing, Pierre
You mentioned that your threading dial does not line up exactly with the witness mark when you engage your half nuts. You can remedy that by placing a thinner washer between the threading dial and the carriage where it pivots. I believe a slightly thinner washer will move the mark in the correct direction in your case, or you could use a washer that is considerably thicker to move the dial far enough away from the carriage to obtain zero. A little trial and error will put you right on the mark.
Concerning parts made in other countries. I can't help but to feel sad in that at one time almost every quality machine was made in Illinois and Chicago and I'm sure some still remain but never like they once were. Anyway, nice video.
Mr Pete I had to do some cutting on cast iron and use some other stuff that could get your hands dirty that is hard to wash off. One thing we found that worked to clean your hands was a hand barrier cream. Several companies make barrier creams and some have special application uses, like for paints and sealants. I hate to use the nitrile gloves because my hands sweat and then break out if I wear them for more than 5 minutes. Using sealants on F-16s I would use that stuff and when it got on my hands I could wash it off when I got back to my shop. One of the ones I've used was PR88 link: www.pr88.co/ another is Mechanic's Armor link: www.mechanicsarmor.com/ and there are many more. I've found that if you are using a water based coolant some do not work very good as they are designed to wash off, you really need to check some out and try them. But for most dry stuff, sealants and oils/greases they work real good washing the dirt off. Hope this helps you out, I know how hard it is to scrub that graphite off. The barrier creams make it so easy to get that stuff off. For more choices, Google hand barrier cream for mechanics.
relating to the allen wrench story. I had a friend who was annoyed that his brand new steel tape's hook was loose so he hammered the rivets to stop it moving. I didn't have the heart to tell him. I use a similar recipe to Jamie Buckley but replace the sugar with sea salt as it doesn't dissolve as quickly (use kosher salt if you are orthodox) and if you have any cuts you haven't noticed it REALLY helps you find them, but perhaps that's just because I was a nurse and we are all sadists. ;-)
+mrpete222 to be fair, unless you really stop to think about it, it does look like they have just made a shoddy job of the assembly and we have all done dumb things. I'd tell you some nursing stories but people tend to turn green or sue me, sometimes both.
They come in real handy when the part needs to mate up with an existing item's bolt pattern... They're pretty much essential for doing these chuck back-plate matchups.
Hi Lyle, I know this is an older video, but I wanted to ask, how did you determine the amount of space to move the center punch lines in to the diameter of the chuck? Thanks!
Dear Mr. Pete, you've talked a lot about grizzly tools lately. My question is would you buy a grizzly lathe? I know ever one day craigslist but there's not much in my area. Thanks
Dear My Hero, Will you please try and cut a sprocket out??? I know I'm asking for an act of Congress, but if you can't, nobody will! Thank you Lyle! You're the best. ... All the love from the heart!
I dont see the advantage of the Allen screw driver being rounded like that please explain? Nice work on that chuck adapter. You are an expert. Love your videos I really enjoy them.
Hello shartne, the rounded end of the driver allows you to access and drive an Allen screw if you do not have access to the head of the screw directly in-line with the long axis of the screw. In other words, if there is an obstruction over the head of the screw, you may nevertheless be able to drive the screw from a slight angle. With conventional Allen screw wrenches you do not have that luxury... you must be directly over the screw head, in line with the axis of the screw hole. Hope that helps.
I believe that the technical name for that type of hex key is a ball-nose. Once upon a time, they were only available around here under the Bondhus brand, but in the last ~5+ years I've been able to buy other brands as well. We used them a lot in electronics and automotive work, where you just cannot get a straight shot at the head of the cap screw...
Hi Mr. Pete, Many thanks for this series. One question I have about dividing heads is: what are the advantages and disadvantages of a dividing head compared to a horizontal/vertical rotary table with dividing plates and a tail stock? On the face of it, it would seem that the rotary table can do everything the dividing head can, but can also do many other useful things that a dividing head cannot. I know the gear ratios are different, but when outfitting a shop, is it possible to kill two birds with one stone by acquiring a rotary table with dividing plates and a tail stock? I know you can't answer individual questions, but this is such a basic one, I'm hoping that you'll discuss it at some point later in the series. As an aside, II've found that my trusty Fast hand cleaner (with NO pumice) takes cast iron dust (and many other things) right off, with no fuss, no muss, and no bother. Works great. Thanks, -Chris
@12:27, I see that I'm not alone in having the taps side out of those Greenfield style tap handles... It's not *so* bad with the larger taps, but I'm frequently working with smaller sizes - 6-32 & 4-40, or even 10-32 - or their metric analogs... chasing those tiny taps when they roll under a workbench is not fun... Eric
hello tuballcain i have a really good way for you to get that cast iron powder off your hands and its very simple very effective all it is dish soap and sugar mixed together in a paste with allitle water.
Well, you got away with you cap head counterbores! I would have used the counterbore tool and turned a few thou of the cap screws, although it is not like a lathe chuck that is spinning around so you have no chance of catching on the sharp edge of the couterbore hole. Your tale of the ball end Allen Keys was very funny, not, I am sure, for the owner!
Hi Englishman French, quite right. I have been learning from Mr Pete (and others) for two or three years now, and yes in situations like this did not hesitate in the past to skim the bolt head a few thou and make everything safe. Regards
Thanks for another excellent video! Loved that early reinforcement (0:40) of thinking ahead about holding the piece for additional machining processes.
Thanks for watching
When I was 5 or 6 years old I noticed the teeth on one of my dad's hand saws, the only kind he had back then, were bent. One this way and the next the other way and so on. Luckily I asked before I straightened them out for him.
Good one
Another nice job, I have to say I like watching ALL of your interesting videos....and yes, I love the rambling too, it makes the complete package for me. Keep up the good work!!!
Thank you Lyle for another great series of videos.
Thanks for watching
I recently picked up an old dividing head, and need to perform the same job. I haven't gotten around to it yet but this gives me some idea of the job at hand
Thanks for watching
Thanks for doing this video. Im in the same situation with fitting a face plate to my Cincinnati dividing head, but mine is the size up from yours. It need a small crane to put it into place. I might do a video similar to yours. solving the same problem a different way. Keep up the great work, and don't let the trolls ruin your day.
Dale d
Thanks
Enjoyed watching this set of videos Mr. Pete. Great work.
Thanks
You are probably correct about the Blue Blade. They are 0.006 thou and that doesn't look much thicker. Glad that didn't break out. Great work.
I also can be very messy regarding fixing things and i tend to get my hands all black and oily. First i clean my hands with soap and water and dry them, then a take 1 - 2 teaspoon of vaseline and rub them on my hands maybe for a minute or two, let the vaseline heat up in the palm of my hands, then i clean them with soap and water again, the vaseline has taken most of the oils and soot off the hands...
Yet another EXCELLENT video series! Thank you sir...
Thanks for watching
I love a project, even if it isn't mine. I was holding my breath about that counterbore, I'd hate to see you try to use some body filler to fix it (thinking of the original casting with hidden body filler).
Welcome back Mr Pete, I was having withdrawal anxiety!
Thanks for watching
Thanks Mr. Pete. I appreciate all of your work, and have learned a great deal from you. By coincidence I just finished a backing plate project today for a new four jaw chuck for my new lathe. I was wondering how I was going to transfer the holes from the back of the new chuck (4 of them) to the plate. Since I had watched most of your previous videos I was thinking about getting a set of transfer screws, and I went so far as to look up sets on several web sites, but I wanted to finish the job today, so I came up with the following solution:
My lathe spindle has a three bolt mounting pattern, so I bored the three spindle bolt holes in the plate using my mini mill (which has a cheap DRO set up). This worked fine since I had not trued up the plate to the spindle yet, and just had to get the three holes spaced properly and reasonably centered on the plate. Then I mounted it to the spindle and faced, turned, and bored the plate much as you did, including the locating step, which was coincidently 5.115" in diameter also. This is for a 6" Chinese chuck, so maybe that's some kind of standard. I couldn't use the DRO for the chuck mounting bolts since the pattern was outside of my mini mill table's movement limits.
I then removed the jaws from the new chuck, and mounted it face down on the mill table using the vacant jaw slots for clamping in order to leave the chuck's back completely free . I centered one of the four mounting holes on the back of the chuck under the mill spindle, placed the plate on the chuck, and, holding the plate by hand, drilled my first hole ( it was really held in place by the locating step). I used the full size drill bit and made the hole in a single pass. I took it easy to make sure once I drilled through the plate I wouldn't mess up the threaded hole below it in the chuck. All I had to do after that was rotate the just drilled hole into alignment with another hole on the back of the chuck, put a mounting bolt in to hold it in place (with each new hole I would add another bolt), and drill the next hole. This way I never had to move the table, or do any layout or measuring, just rotate the plate on the chuck using the locating step as the pivot. I counter bored the four holes using an end mill in the same set up, using the same indexing method, again without having to move the table. It worked out great, and I was making parts with my new four jaw chuck by this afternoon.
Thanks again for the videos.
Sounds like you did a nice job--Thanks for watching
Great video. Looks like it will be very handy. After the last engine video I decided to make my own flywheel mold and have now finished it. It is pretty much a copy of the mrpete version. Thanks for the video.
Thanks
Your Allen Wrench story reminded me of a sea story. A Navy chief I once knew had a coffee cup that he was very proud of and which hadn't been washed in years (the inside looked like the inside of an old steam pipe - He claimed it improved the flavor of the coffee). Someone told a new recruit that to impress the chief he should wash his cup. I'll let you guess at the outcome.
Jack
zyzzy1944 That's a good one.
Great video. Got a Dividing head recently and i either need to find a chuck to fit my back plate which seems quite problematic or make a new back plate (worst is when you go to look/pick something up and you immediately feel like your getting taken for a ride cause the person who's there has no clue about even talking about or think things are worth 2nd hand more than you can buy good quaility new).
Thanks, always seem to end up back at your videos for one reason or antoher
👍👍
MR. PETE,
I USE MECHANICS RUBBER GLOVES WHENEVER I AM WORKING WITH SOMETHING UGLY. GREAT JOB, GREAT VIDEO.
Hi mrpete, to get the graphite off your hands, just do the dishes after a good "ham & eggs" breakfast, look at your wife's hands and I'm sure they're very clean... LOL
Great basic teach on adapting a back plate, that went smooth, I've got one that was a little more problematic that you can see on my channel... Some kind of a thriller.
Thanks for sharing,
Pierre
Thanks for watching
Great video Mr pete 👍
Nicely done. I liked the story about the allen tools.
Thanks for watching
I was really hoping to see something on the chuck and dial indicator to see runout of the all the work you did. But nice video, like always!
Very nice video Mr.Pete
Thanks
Very informative as always Mr Pete!
Take Care
Excellent video, Thanks. Chuckled about the allen tools story.
Thanks for watching
You mentioned that your threading dial does not line up exactly with the witness mark when you engage your half nuts. You can remedy that by placing a thinner washer between the threading dial and the carriage where it pivots. I believe a slightly thinner washer will move the mark in the correct direction in your case, or you could use a washer that is considerably thicker to move the dial far enough away from the carriage to obtain zero. A little trial and error will put you right on the mark.
I'll try that
Concerning parts made in other countries. I can't help but to feel sad in that at one time almost every quality machine was made in Illinois and Chicago and I'm sure some still remain but never like they once were. Anyway, nice video.
Very sad
Mr Pete I had to do some cutting on cast iron and use some other stuff that could get your hands dirty that is hard to wash off. One thing we found that worked to clean your hands was a hand barrier cream. Several companies make barrier creams and some have special application uses, like for paints and sealants. I hate to use the nitrile gloves because my hands sweat and then break out if I wear them for more than 5 minutes. Using sealants on F-16s I would use that stuff and when it got on my hands I could wash it off when I got back to my shop. One of the ones I've used was PR88 link: www.pr88.co/ another is Mechanic's Armor link: www.mechanicsarmor.com/ and there are many more. I've found that if you are using a water based coolant some do not work very good as they are designed to wash off, you really need to check some out and try them. But for most dry stuff, sealants and oils/greases they work real good washing the dirt off. Hope this helps you out, I know how hard it is to scrub that graphite off. The barrier creams make it so easy to get that stuff off. For more choices, Google hand barrier cream for mechanics.
relating to the allen wrench story. I had a friend who was annoyed that his brand new steel tape's hook was loose so he hammered the rivets to stop it moving. I didn't have the heart to tell him.
I use a similar recipe to Jamie Buckley but replace the sugar with sea salt as it doesn't dissolve as quickly (use kosher salt if you are orthodox) and if you have any cuts you haven't noticed it REALLY helps you find them, but perhaps that's just because I was a nurse and we are all sadists. ;-)
+Jonathan Anstock My brother did that to a tape rule once
+mrpete222 to be fair, unless you really stop to think about it, it does look like they have just made a shoddy job of the assembly and we have all done dumb things. I'd tell you some nursing stories but people tend to turn green or sue me, sometimes both.
Nice vid! Never heard of transfer screws, I like them.
They come in real handy when the part needs to mate up with an existing item's bolt pattern...
They're pretty much essential for doing these chuck back-plate matchups.
chemech
They're a couple other ways. You could clamp both pcs. together and drill them out at the same time also.
Thanks for watching
Hi Lyle,
I know this is an older video, but I wanted to ask, how did you determine the amount of space to move the center punch lines in to the diameter of the chuck?
Thanks!
Dear Mr. Pete, you've talked a lot about grizzly tools lately. My question is would you buy a grizzly lathe? I know ever one day craigslist but there's not much in my area. Thanks
I probably would if I could not find a USA model. But get their better model, not the smaller ones.
Dear My Hero,
Will you please try and cut a sprocket out??? I know I'm asking for an act of Congress, but if you can't, nobody will!
Thank you Lyle!
You're the best. ... All the love from the heart!
Thanks
Thanks really like the story about the ball end Allen wrench's ! ,
Thanks for all the knowledge .
Thanks for watching
I dont see the advantage of the Allen screw driver being rounded like that please explain? Nice work on that chuck adapter. You are an expert. Love your videos I really enjoy them.
Hello shartne, the rounded end of the driver allows you to access and drive an Allen screw if you do not have access to the head of the screw directly in-line with the long axis of the screw. In other words, if there is an obstruction over the head of the screw, you may nevertheless be able to drive the screw from a slight angle. With conventional Allen screw wrenches you do not have that luxury... you must be directly over the screw head, in line with the axis of the screw hole. Hope that helps.
I believe that the technical name for that type of hex key is a ball-nose. Once upon a time, they were only available around here under the Bondhus brand, but in the last ~5+ years I've been able to buy other brands as well.
We used them a lot in electronics and automotive work, where you just cannot get a straight shot at the head of the cap screw...
chemech
I believe the patent expired around 2005 or so.
Thanks for watching
I like the way cast iron cuts but hate the filth.
Nice jobs
Me too
Hi Mr. Pete, Many thanks for this series. One question I have about dividing heads is: what are the advantages and disadvantages of a dividing head compared to a horizontal/vertical rotary table with dividing plates and a tail stock? On the face of it, it would seem that the rotary table can do everything the dividing head can, but can also do many other useful things that a dividing head cannot. I know the gear ratios are different, but when outfitting a shop, is it possible to kill two birds with one stone by acquiring a rotary table with dividing plates and a tail stock?
I know you can't answer individual questions, but this is such a basic one, I'm hoping that you'll discuss it at some point later in the series.
As an aside, II've found that my trusty Fast hand cleaner (with NO pumice) takes cast iron dust (and many other things) right off, with no fuss, no muss, and no bother. Works great.
Thanks, -Chris
Thanks for watching
Since your lead screw is 8tpi and your cut thread is also 8tpi, you can close the half nuts anywhere and it should thread ok.
Thanks
At the sink, I replaced the wash clothe with a full size schotchbrite ( what ever grit you can stand ) and Dawn dish soap.
This was an enjoyable episode. But do you have another 3-jaw chick for the Logan ?
No--have to trade back & forth
@12:27, I see that I'm not alone in having the taps side out of those Greenfield style tap handles...
It's not *so* bad with the larger taps, but I'm frequently working with smaller sizes - 6-32 & 4-40, or even 10-32 - or their metric analogs...
chasing those tiny taps when they roll under a workbench is not fun...
Eric
You got that right
Great job !
Thank you sir
You might try Boraxo Powdered Hand Soap to clean your hands.
a real good trick to wash really dirty hands is regular dish soap and sugar. this will really clean your hands good.
hello tuballcain i have a really good way for you to get that cast iron powder off your hands and its very simple very effective all it is dish soap and sugar mixed together in a paste with allitle water.
Jamie Buckley THANKS FOR WATCHING---I will try that
Nice job mrpete. Thanks for sharing. I was going to make a smartass remark about New Year and Easter but thought better of it. LOL regards from the UK
Thanks
LOL'd at "I changed my mind"
MrJoeGarner Thanks for watching
Ol Puddy palmer strikes again
I just looked up the meaning of the pseudonym Tubal-Cain, ha ha ha i see what you did there!
Thanks for watching
excellent mr pete
Thanks
Tell me MrPete, do u have to buy your brother a new Torx driver every time to tell that story? LoL
If so,he might have a full set by now. LoL
He now has 3 sets
Oh no did he really grind them off?
Well, you got away with you cap head counterbores! I would have used the counterbore tool and turned a few thou of the cap screws, although it is not like a lathe chuck that is spinning around so you have no chance of catching on the sharp edge of the couterbore hole. Your tale of the ball end Allen Keys was very funny, not, I am sure, for the owner!
Hi Englishman French, quite right. I have been learning from Mr Pete (and others) for two or three years now, and yes in situations like this did not hesitate in the past to skim the bolt head a few thou and make everything safe. Regards
Shame on u not using disposable gloves.Then u can say, " Look ma clean hands."
Right
Hey pete get a sandwiche to wipe your hands off
I've eaten many dirty sandwiches