I enjoy all of your videos, Mr. Peterson. I wish others on here would take a hint, leave their faces out of the video, and simply showcase the object of the video, as you always do. Just a peeve of mine, but I'll bet I'm not the only one who feels this way. Thank you for sharing and educating, you are a generous, good man.
Thanks Mr. Pete - Much Appreciated. I live on Vancouver Island BC Canada and have purchased quite a bit of tooling from Little Machine Shop both online and every year they show up at the GEARS show in Portland Oregon. They are really great to deal with - especially the owner Chris and they give concise advise as well. Thanks again - Rod
I learned a lot from this very enjoyable video. Thanks!!!! I have been doing business with "The Little Machine Shop" for several years. They are indeed a great company to do business with. I will be watching for the video of you making the backing plate for the 4 inch chuck that came with this little guy. I am also enjoying the series of "What is this tool" From cold and snowy northern Illinois ( soon to be an Az Snowbird) best wishes. R.O.G.
I have used LittleMachineShop a number of times, I've only ever received quality products Great for the Home Hobbiest. Great videos, I watch most every upload!
Hi MrPete - "TaDaa" - really? You're awesome! I have to find and acquire some of those hymen screws! Great video! Thank you so very much for sharing and teaching us.
I recommend every hobbyist, not just machinists, get a few machinist "center drill" bits. I was unaware of them until my professional machinist friends showed me how well they work for starting holes compared to the wobbly horror (even in a collet in a quality CNC milling machine!) of conventional bits. I wish I'd known about them decades ago, and I now use center drill bits will all my drills including hand held.
Thanks once again for taking the time to do these videos. I received my 4 jaw chuck and backing plate from the "Little Machine Shop " yesterday. I already knew what had to be done, but watching your video last night gave me the confidence to "hook in" this morning and replicate your method of fitting it. I could not be happier with the result. The chuck runs perfectly true. I really appreciate being able to watch the process. Thanks again to you and the other U-tube machinists for taking the time to pass on your knowledge.
Thanks for sharing that work! It would have been helpful when I made a backing plate to mount a 5" 4jaw on my HF lathe. I cheated, 'cuz I cut the blank, with mounting holes, on a waterjet @ work. And I definitely would have made the vids differently! :)) Littlemachineshop is a great resource for DIY'ers and hobbyists. Nice to see a trained machinist using their stuff.
on an unrelated topic, slightly. no matter how round a tool, slow speed, fast speed, slow feed, fast feed, light a cut, i take on our club lathe, you will always get a scratched finish. would you say the headstock bearings have had it?
I also would not like the screws exposed on the backing plate. It may be feasible to turn down the allen bolts a bit to whatever min dia. seems OK. The bolt holes could then be c'sunk in a milling machine.
I have the same problem with my lathe (a chuck without backing plate), but the thread of my late seems to be M90x5, and I can't find any backing plate for it. I was wondering if anyone recognizes this thread and knows where to buy a backing plate. Lathe is Italian made, brand is Troglia (Torino). Actually I was hoping to see how to cut the thread in this video (in case I have to cut it myself). I have cut some thread on the lathe already but I never did such a huge size inside (I'm a bit scared to cut it not perfectly straight, because the backing plate should fit the fitting collar perfectly).
Did I miss the discussion of cutting tool design for cast iron? I saw carbide inserts but heard nothing about on-center, below center, above center placement . . . or negative rake. Maybe next one ? . . .
I've seen instructions that said to make the registration boss a little bit larger diameter than the chuck needed, then heat the chuck to enlarge the hole before installing it. When it cooled, it would clamp down on the backing plate. Is that necessary or would just machining it to size work?
Thank you for this video i've been asking along time for someone to make a video like this you are a genius my friend.,I need to find me some transfer screws im not aware of any where in the uk that sell's them :(
I got an oddish 7/16" - 10 LH ACME tap from an outfit on ebay - RDG Tools - based in the UK... West Yorkshire www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/home.html I don't see the transfer screws on their website, but it might be worth a phone call to a real live person? I bought my transfer screws from Little Machine Shop, aka LMS, along with a backplate. littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3109&category= LMS is local to me - what I save in shipping by Will Call about matches the California sales tax...
I hate to correct you as your grammar is always good. The chuck was made in England or it is British. It is not English made. English is a language :-)
Excellent video. I need to do thiz exact project to mount a plain back 5C collet chuck on my lathe. I was going to do it exactly as you demonstrated. I am glad to see my plan should work. Thank you for sharing. BTW: Littlemachineshop.com is a great company to deal with.
Can you do a video on removing such a screw type chuck from a lathe (when its really badly stuck). I got a old myford ml10 and cant get the chuck of it.
Dear Mr. Tubalcain, I enjoy your videos and subscribed to your channel. I think you are doing a great favor to the guys like me. Here is my question: I have Craftsman (Atlas) Commercial 101 with 6" cross slide and 30' carriage slide. Lately, when working with small 3.0mm Hex pieces, I discovered that my 3-jaw chuck has "Bell mouth" and it is holding my work somewhere half way in the chuck, rather then by the front of the jaws. Those ToolPost grinders are pretty expensive and I decided to buy a new chuck instead. Since my original was a flat, single Key-hole 6" chuck, I bought Shars 6" 3-Jaw chuck with 1 - 1/2 8TPI threaded Back Plate on eBay. It was a mistake, because this new chuck is not even capable of holding 3mm work in it's jaws and looks too heavy for my lathe, I'm now worried about my spindle bearings. I turned (on the spindle) the "Registration Boss" of the Back Plate to fit my chuck precisely and bolted the chuck to it. I's WAY OFF. A perfectly round, grounded 1/2" rod, in my chuck wobbles about half of the dial of my indicator. I wish you had an instructional video about how to adjust a chuck in my situation, because the one in your video came out near perfect and you didn't have to do any adjustments. Best regards and keep up the good work. Thank you. Mike michaeldoc69@sbcglobal.net
MrPete, I have just gone through exactly the same process to machine a backplate for mounting my new 130mm (5") SanOu 3-jaw chuck onto my Chinese 9x20 lathe. This lathe has an M39-4 spindle thread, and Little Machine Shop was one of the few places I found that carried an M39-4 backplate that was large enough (and reasonably priced). In this case, I had to settle for a 6" diameter backplate for my 5" chuck. I decided to leave that backplate at its original 6" diameter, rather than turn it down to 5" to match the chuck. Of course, I did have to reduce the registration boss to appropriate diameter, and was careful (and lucky!) enough to get it "just right". The chuck fits the registration boss with no perceptible slop or looseness. (Whew!) With a test bar mounted, I am seeing total runout in the range of 0.001 to 0.002, which I'm happy with. As always, the guidance you offer in your videos is superb!
Thanks Mr. Pete. I always find your videos entertaining as well as informative. Being a native Hoosier, perhaps I can appreciate your midwest humor and sensibility better than many. ;-) I was a little surprised that you did not take a light truing cut on the back of the backing plate where it registers against the shoulder of the spindle, just to make sure it was concentric with the spindle itself. I would think this was a good first step in making sure the new adapter set true to the spindle.Do you have any thoughts on that?
I recently bought one of Harbor Freight's little 7x10 lathes and was needing some small tooling. I discovered LittleMachineshop.com and bought A tooling package. The package I bought included a set of brazed carbide boring bars, a set of indexible turning tools, a #2 MT 1/2 inch drill chuck, and an Aloris style tool post with a set of 4 tool holders. All of it seems to be decent quality and the tool post is American made. I think the whole works was $180 which I thought was a pretty fair price. Im sure I will do business with them in the future. Keep up the good videos, Ive learned alot from watching your stuff as well as Kieth Fenner, Tom Lipton, and Adam Booth. I really appreciate you guys sharing all your knowledge with us novices out here. Also I know you are from central Illinois and like old tractors and such so you might enjoy the vid I posted of my Dad's 1965 Jeep CJ5 in the Eureka ILL 4th of july parade this past summer.
very nice video :) littlemachine shop has some pretty good deals, do you have a machine with the L00 or L1 mount? I would like to know more about lapping the bevel for an accurate fit, if not its ok :)
Hi. Nice video, also like your other videos. About the countersinking of the screws, as you said they would go through the side if you countersink. But would it be an idea to round off the edges around the countersunk head with the mill, so the screwheads would be visible from the side, through a rounded off pocket.
MrPete. I know that you squared the corner of the registration boss shoulder and the mating face of the backing plate as you finished the machining. I appreciate the fact that you relied upon the ground square nose of the HS steel tool you used for this task. You mentioned that you ran the square nose of the too up to the face of the place, driving it into the face of the backing plate very slightly and then back the tool out which finished the chuck to plate surface. Obtaining a true registration boss shoulder to plate face is obviously important to insure that the registration opening in the chuck passes completely over the registration boss as it meets the plate surface. I was taught that to insure the absence of any possible rounding or evidence of even the slightest high spot (because of the tool profiling) at the point where the registration boss shoulder meets the plate face, that one should introduce a cut at that point by moving the sharp tip of the tool cutting surface into the corner a slight distance, move the tool to the plate face a slight amount and then withdraw the tool finalizing the plates face surface. Now this would not be necessary if the outer edge of the chuck registration receiver is chamfered in such a manner as to preclude striking the very inner corner of the plate registration we speak of. I certainly do not have the skills nor the experience you possess and I so enjoy the video's you have so generously produced for all of us aspiring machinists. Offered just as an inquiry.
The apparently too-large OD baseplate seems to have been made big enough to allow the counterbores for the mounting bolts. Easy enough to overlook from your end, but perhaps clever from the end of the baseplate mfg, however.
Thank you for this video. This is a project I need to do on my turn of the century lathe. Thank you for all your videos. As a beginner, these videos are invaluable!
Thanks Mr. Pete for this and all the other interesting and instructional videos that you produce and post. I really appreciate the time and dedication you give to assist all the hobbyists and young people interested in gaining trade skills. Long may you continue, All the best from Australia
I see, about the dia. of the counter bore. maybe just a slight spot face with the counter boring tool would have been in order. Thanks for your time and efforts
Christmas Eve at 11:35 and I finished this video. I misread the title thinking it was part of the Logan lathe repair series. I have seen you make a backplate for a chuck on another video but I love a project, even when it isn't mine. Great video Mr. Pete, now it is time for bed and wake up to homemade orange rolls and a nice cup of dark rich coffee. Now that is a Christmas morning to think about. Best wishes to you and Mrs. Pete for a wonderful Christmas. I imagine you will have some grandkids in the house or perhaps they have already been there.
Good stuff Mr. Pete. Something I'd like to see you discuss is the fitting of a backplate to the lathe spindle. There seems to be a great deal of controversy about whether the threads actually center the back plate on the spindle or whether the backplate should be fitted to the cylindrical smooth area just behind the threads. It appears that you are in the group that believes in the thread registering theory since you plan to use your chuck on all of your lathes with 1 1/2 - 8 threads even though the smooth area on each lathe may be a different diameter.
This is something I knew was easy enough. I had never seen it done or had the need to do it myself. That is to say, this video is much appreciated. Thank you.
mrpete222 100,00$ U.S. here in Canada it's higher than that. Making one implies many steps like calculation, measurement, planing : inside taper, keyway and external threading, hole positioning etc. etc. I start making one, but it is a big project for a new bee ! Also, it's difficult to find the iron of that size ! Thanks again for this video and all the others that are so helpful for all of us who like the trade,
Great video Lyle. I wish I took video footage of my making a D1-4 backplate for (my) Buck Adjust-Tru chuck. It was an 8" slug of ductile steel and a lot of machining. And like yours, it exceeded my expectations ;-)
I've been a subscriber for a long time and love your videos, thanks! I do have a question though. Having a shop myself (gunsmith for 26+ years), I have an extensive library. In it I have one set of books that some of which are wrote by Tubal Cain. The series is Workshop Practice Series. Thanks again and keep the machine shop tips coming!
I enjoy all of your videos, Mr. Peterson. I wish others on here would take a hint, leave their faces out of the video, and simply showcase the object of the video, as you always do. Just a peeve of mine, but I'll bet I'm not the only one who feels this way. Thank you for sharing and educating, you are a generous, good man.
No one would want to see my ugly puss.
Thanks Mr. Pete - Much Appreciated.
I live on Vancouver Island BC Canada and have purchased quite a bit of tooling from
Little Machine Shop both online and every year they show up at the GEARS show in
Portland Oregon. They are really great to deal with - especially the owner Chris and they give concise advise as well. Thanks again - Rod
I learned a lot from this very enjoyable video. Thanks!!!! I have been doing business with "The Little Machine Shop" for several years. They are indeed a great company to do business with. I will be watching for the video of you making the backing plate for the 4 inch chuck that came with this little guy. I am also enjoying the series of "What is this tool" From cold and snowy northern Illinois ( soon to be an Az Snowbird) best wishes. R.O.G.
My father in law has me put in forcing screws when doing back plates for my chucks.
It is extra work, but when time they true up nice and easy.
I have used LittleMachineShop a number of times, I've only ever received quality products Great for the Home Hobbiest. Great videos, I watch most every upload!
Hi MrPete - "TaDaa" - really? You're awesome! I have to find and acquire some of those hymen screws! Great video! Thank you so very much for sharing and teaching us.
Great work. That's what we would consider spot on for a 3-jaw chuck. I figures .002 would be good, but that was about .0005.
Ta Dah! Quality. Didn't expect that. :-)
I recommend every hobbyist, not just machinists, get a few machinist "center drill" bits. I was unaware of them until my professional machinist friends showed me how well they work for starting holes compared to the wobbly horror (even in a collet in a quality CNC milling machine!) of conventional bits. I wish I'd known about them decades ago, and I now use center drill bits will all my drills including hand held.
Just done the same thing even bought the blank for the same place !
Thanks once again for taking the time to do these videos. I received my 4 jaw chuck and backing plate from the "Little Machine Shop " yesterday. I already knew what had to be done, but watching your video last night gave me the confidence to "hook in" this morning and replicate your method of fitting it. I could not be happier with the result. The chuck runs perfectly true. I really appreciate being able to watch the process. Thanks again to you and the other U-tube machinists for taking the time to pass on your knowledge.
Think I would have left the back flange full size. That way there is room for the counterbores and indexing holes on the edge.
Thanks for sharing that work! It would have been helpful when I made a backing plate to mount a 5" 4jaw on my HF lathe. I cheated, 'cuz I cut the blank, with mounting holes, on a waterjet @ work. And I definitely would have made the vids differently! :))
Littlemachineshop is a great resource for DIY'ers and hobbyists. Nice to see a trained machinist using their stuff.
on an unrelated topic, slightly.
no matter how round a tool, slow speed, fast speed, slow feed, fast feed, light a cut, i take on our club lathe, you will always get a scratched finish.
would you say the headstock bearings have had it?
Genesis 4: 22 Also, Zil′lah gave birth to Tu′bal-cain, who forged every sort of tool of copper and iron. And the sister of Tu′bal-cain was Na′a·mah.
GoodScienceForYou YES--thanks
How about a video on carbide inserts: types/ sizes/ used for/ etc. and maybe a way to identify what insert goes with what tool holder.
I also would not like the screws exposed on the backing plate. It may be feasible to turn down the allen bolts a bit to whatever min dia. seems OK. The bolt holes could then be c'sunk in a milling machine.
There is a wood working chuck that comes with no back plate. Its has a unique way of holding an adapter.
I have the same problem with my lathe (a chuck without backing plate), but the thread of my late seems to be M90x5, and I can't find any backing plate for it. I was wondering if anyone recognizes this thread and knows where to buy a backing plate. Lathe is Italian made, brand is Troglia (Torino). Actually I was hoping to see how to cut the thread in this video (in case I have to cut it myself). I have cut some thread on the lathe already but I never did such a huge size inside (I'm a bit scared to cut it not perfectly straight, because the backing plate should fit the fitting collar perfectly).
Did I miss the discussion of cutting tool design for cast iron? I saw carbide inserts but heard nothing about on-center, below center, above center placement . . . or negative rake. Maybe next one ? . . .
I've seen instructions that said to make the registration boss a little bit larger diameter than the chuck needed, then heat the chuck to enlarge the hole before installing it. When it cooled, it would clamp down on the backing plate. Is that necessary or would just machining it to size work?
great video for some reason you do a video of something I need. Thanks
Thank you for this video i've been asking along time for someone to make a video like this you are a genius my friend.,I need to find me some transfer screws im not aware of any where in the uk that sell's them :(
I got an oddish 7/16" - 10 LH ACME tap from an outfit on ebay - RDG Tools - based in the UK... West Yorkshire
www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/home.html
I don't see the transfer screws on their website, but it might be worth a phone call to a real live person?
I bought my transfer screws from Little Machine Shop, aka LMS, along with a backplate.
littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3109&category=
LMS is local to me - what I save in shipping by Will Call about matches the California sales tax...
chemech Thanks mate i will give them a ring,These things are useful im surprised there is no where in the uk that stocks the,
I hate to correct you as your grammar is always good. The chuck was made in England or it is British. It is not English made. English is a language :-)
I wouldn't have thought so, but that cast iron machines nicely. The little chips it leaves behind is somehow satisfying.
I will give you an A+ on that project ..I like how you switched to a HSS bit for the final fit and finish
Excellent video. I need to do thiz exact project to mount a plain back 5C collet chuck on my lathe. I was going to do it exactly as you demonstrated. I am glad to see my plan should work. Thank you for sharing.
BTW: Littlemachineshop.com is a great company to deal with.
Excellent video, thank you! I will be doing this very soon, and the one step I didn't know how to do was the part using the Heimann transfer screws.
Can you do a video on removing such a screw type chuck from a lathe (when its really badly stuck). I got a old myford ml10 and cant get the chuck of it.
Dear Mr. Tubalcain, I enjoy your videos and subscribed to your channel. I think you are doing a great favor to the guys like me.
Here is my question:
I have Craftsman (Atlas) Commercial 101 with 6" cross slide and 30' carriage slide. Lately, when working with small 3.0mm Hex pieces, I discovered that my 3-jaw chuck has "Bell mouth" and it is holding my work somewhere half way in the chuck, rather then by the front of the jaws. Those ToolPost grinders are pretty expensive and I decided to buy a new chuck instead. Since my original was a flat, single Key-hole 6" chuck, I bought Shars 6" 3-Jaw chuck with 1 - 1/2 8TPI threaded Back Plate on eBay. It was a mistake, because this new chuck is not even capable of holding 3mm work in it's jaws and looks too heavy for my lathe, I'm now worried about my spindle bearings. I turned (on the spindle) the "Registration Boss" of the Back Plate to fit my chuck precisely and bolted the chuck to it. I's WAY OFF. A perfectly round, grounded 1/2" rod, in my chuck wobbles about half of the dial of my indicator.
I wish you had an instructional video about how to adjust a chuck in my situation, because the one in your video came out near perfect and you didn't have to do any adjustments.
Best regards and keep up the good work.
Thank you.
Mike michaeldoc69@sbcglobal.net
Another great educational opportunity! Thank you Mr Pete!
MrPete, I have just gone through exactly the same process to machine a backplate for mounting my new 130mm (5") SanOu 3-jaw chuck onto my Chinese 9x20 lathe. This lathe has an M39-4 spindle thread, and Little Machine Shop was one of the few places I found that carried an M39-4 backplate that was large enough (and reasonably priced). In this case, I had to settle for a 6" diameter backplate for my 5" chuck. I decided to leave that backplate at its original 6" diameter, rather than turn it down to 5" to match the chuck. Of course, I did have to reduce the registration boss to appropriate diameter, and was careful (and lucky!) enough to get it "just right". The chuck fits the registration boss with no perceptible slop or looseness. (Whew!) With a test bar mounted, I am seeing total runout in the range of 0.001 to 0.002, which I'm happy with.
As always, the guidance you offer in your videos is superb!
👍👍👍
For all you Americans its pronounced (Sham)Cham fer
+GREGORY MAIDER You Brits have a problem pronouncing things correctly, e.g. Aluminum...
+BuickDoc
there is an i in the PROPER spelling you understand
+GREGORY MAIDER The International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry accepts both spellings and both pronunciations...
Thanks Mr. Pete. I always find your videos entertaining as well as informative. Being a native Hoosier, perhaps I can appreciate your midwest humor and sensibility better than many. ;-) I was a little surprised that you did not take a light truing cut on the back of the backing plate where it registers against the shoulder of the spindle, just to make sure it was concentric with the spindle itself. I would think this was a good first step in making sure the new adapter set true to the spindle.Do you have any thoughts on that?
I recently bought one of Harbor Freight's little 7x10 lathes and was needing some small tooling. I discovered LittleMachineshop.com and bought A tooling package. The package I bought included a set of brazed carbide boring bars, a set of indexible turning tools, a #2 MT 1/2 inch drill chuck, and an Aloris style tool post with a set of 4 tool holders. All of it seems to be decent quality and the tool post is American made. I think the whole works was $180 which I thought was a pretty fair price. Im sure I will do business with them in the future. Keep up the good videos, Ive learned alot from watching your stuff as well as Kieth Fenner, Tom Lipton, and Adam Booth. I really appreciate you guys sharing all your knowledge with us novices out here. Also I know you are from central Illinois and like old tractors and such so you might enjoy the vid I posted of my Dad's 1965 Jeep CJ5 in the Eureka ILL 4th of july parade this past summer.
Thanks--nice red jeep. I've been thru eureka many times. I've had real good results from little mach.
very nice video :) littlemachine shop has some pretty good deals, do you have a machine with the L00 or L1 mount? I would like to know more about lapping the bevel for an accurate fit, if not its ok :)
Hi. Nice video, also like your other videos. About the countersinking of the screws, as you said they would go through the side if you countersink. But would it be an idea to round off the edges around the countersunk head with the mill, so the screwheads would be visible from the side, through a rounded off pocket.
Fantastic video! Mrpete, why didn't you spot face where the cap screws go to give the screws a clean face to seat on?
MrPete. I know that you squared the corner of the registration boss shoulder and the mating face of the backing plate as you finished the machining. I appreciate the fact that you relied upon the ground square nose of the HS steel tool you used for this task. You mentioned that you ran the square nose of the too up to the face of the place, driving it into the face of the backing plate very slightly and then back the tool out which finished the chuck to plate surface. Obtaining a true registration boss shoulder to plate face is obviously important to insure that the registration opening in the chuck passes completely over the registration boss as it meets the plate surface. I was taught that to insure the absence of any possible rounding or evidence of even the slightest high spot (because of the tool profiling) at the point where the registration boss shoulder meets the plate face, that one should introduce a cut at that point by moving the sharp tip of the tool cutting surface into the corner a slight distance, move the tool to the plate face a slight amount and then withdraw the tool finalizing the plates face surface. Now this would not be necessary if the outer edge of the chuck registration receiver is chamfered in such a manner as to preclude striking the very inner corner of the plate registration we speak of. I certainly do not have the skills nor the experience you possess and I so enjoy the video's you have so generously produced for all of us aspiring machinists. Offered just as an inquiry.
The apparently too-large OD baseplate seems to have been made big enough to allow the counterbores for the mounting bolts. Easy enough to overlook from your end, but perhaps clever from the end of the baseplate mfg, however.
Fuck, a buck chuck, thats a nice find, i have a buck chuck but it sucks..
Thank you for this video. This is a project I need to do on my turn of the century lathe.
Thank you for all your videos. As a beginner, these videos are invaluable!
Thanks Mr. Pete for this and all the other interesting and instructional videos that you produce and post. I really appreciate the time and dedication you give to assist all the hobbyists and young people interested in gaining trade skills. Long may you continue, All the best from Australia
I see, about the dia. of the counter bore. maybe just a slight spot face with the counter boring tool would have been in order. Thanks for your time and efforts
Christmas Eve at 11:35 and I finished this video. I misread the title thinking it was part of the Logan lathe repair series. I have seen you make a backplate for a chuck on another video but I love a project, even when it isn't mine. Great video Mr. Pete, now it is time for bed and wake up to homemade orange rolls and a nice cup of dark rich coffee. Now that is a Christmas morning to think about. Best wishes to you and Mrs. Pete for a wonderful Christmas. I imagine you will have some grandkids in the house or perhaps they have already been there.
Merry Christmas, have a wonderful holiday
Transfer screws are an ingeniously simple solution. Thank you for noting their use.
Mr. Pete,
Very nice video. Thanks for sharing your time and talent.
All the best. Chuck.
Is it just me or is he rough with his tools and throws them around a lot?
Good stuff Mr. Pete. Something I'd like to see you discuss is the fitting of a backplate to the lathe spindle. There seems to be a great deal of controversy about whether the threads actually center the back plate on the spindle or whether the backplate should be fitted to the cylindrical smooth area just behind the threads. It appears that you are in the group that believes in the thread registering theory since you plan to use your chuck on all of your lathes with 1 1/2 - 8 threads even though the smooth area on each lathe may be a different diameter.
I think it aligns on the short unthreaded part and against the shoulder. The atlas & logan have a slightly different dim. on that unthreaded part.
very nice work thanks for showing
This is something I knew was easy enough. I had never seen it done or had the need to do it myself. That is to say, this video is much appreciated. Thank you.
As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~
Very nicely done!
Hope that one day you will have to make one for the Clausing lathe with an L00 type back plate.
This one is great too
Thanks
I need one for my clausing L00. They are over 100. dollars
mrpete222 100,00$ U.S. here in Canada it's higher than that. Making one implies many steps like calculation, measurement, planing : inside taper, keyway and external threading, hole positioning etc. etc. I start making one, but it is a big project for a new bee ! Also, it's difficult to find the iron of that size ! Thanks again for this video and all the others that are so helpful for all of us who like the trade,
what about BALANCING???
Great work. Thanks for sharing!
Great video Lyle. I wish I took video footage of my making a D1-4 backplate for (my) Buck Adjust-Tru chuck. It was an 8" slug of ductile steel and a lot of machining. And like yours, it exceeded my expectations ;-)
thanks--I still need to make one for my little adjusa tru.
I've been a subscriber for a long time and love your videos, thanks! I do have a question though. Having a shop myself (gunsmith for 26+ years), I have an extensive library. In it I have one set of books that some of which are wrote by Tubal Cain. The series is Workshop Practice Series. Thanks again and keep the machine shop tips coming!
Sorry, that is not me. There was a tubalcain in the UK (now deceased) that was the autor of several good books.
Excellent video. Do you still offer your lathe course?
Yes--the offer is on this video.
ATLAS & SOUTH BEND LATHE Video Courses FOR SALE tubalcain
verboten?
verboten?
Any reason you chose a carbide cutter for the first operation(s)? Could you have do the entire job with a HSS cutter?
+Tom B No good reason. Actually, I prefer hss.
Excellent, then I'm all set up. Thanks!
Ironically I’m here because my inserts are getting eaten up. It seems the manufacturer may have hardened the surface of my blank backing plate.